Volume 33, No.16

T H E N E W S P A P E R O F T H E C U L I N A R Y I N S T I T U T E O F A M E R I C A S I N C E 1 9 7 9

ON CAMPUS P 4-5

FOOD & BEVERAGE P 8-9

CENTER SPREAD P 6-7

CULINARY CULTURE P 3

BACK PAGE P 12

“The spread of tofu around Asia was almost certainly the result of the travels of Buddhist monks, many of whom were vegetarian and

used it as an important source of protein in their diets.”

“When tableside service was first used, there was only one take to execute the dish perfectly for the customer so it often took an

experienced hand to prepare the foods publicly; showmanship at its finest.”

“I value every opportunity during which I interact with our students here, at Greystone, in San Antonio and now Singapore. I would like

to find an effective way to do so even more often.”

Editor’s Note: I was approached by a reporter, Karina Alvela, about a success story in which a business owner in NJ turned around a bad reputation into a remarkable catering hall. As a graduate from the CIA, he was willing to write this piece on his experience and share it with students. Please take the time to read about his rewarding journey, and advice in what it takes to achieve your goals.

After purchasing a catering hall in New Jersey with a horrible reputation, I knew I had to take the right steps to rebuild customer trust. While I was building my business and marketing plan for The Elan, I needed to make previous and future clients see my ownership of this existing business. This would bring an entirely new dynamic. My plan of attack was raising the bar on staff and service, customer communication and product offerings.

Staff and service can turn around any bad reputation. I always look at our events as though I was the guest of honor and not necessarily the owner. Great service is memorable at any event. Clients will always remember whether or not the service was exceptional or horrific. What you ultimately strive for is not only exceptional service, but an overall perfect service. From the way the staff is dressed, to the proper serving techniques, I personally monitor every detail of my staff to make sure it is all executed properly. I also hired an award-winning chef from New York City and Northern New Jersey who also is a CIA graduate, Joe Macri.

Client and customer communication is a key component to a successful venue. From the moment our receptionist answers our phones and books the appointments, to the moment that the client leaves our facility after their event is complete - we make it our

responsibility to treat each and every client with respect, enthusiasm and with the care and attention to detail we would expect to receive ourselves. Our venue, in a centralized area of Northern New Jersey, was an iconic location many years for weddings, social events and corporate functions, prior to me purchasing the business. I want to host those same events at a higher level and it is my duty to educate future clients on how I will do so.

Finally, product offerings and quality are what really make you stand out from the rest of the venues in the area. As a former Chef in New York City, I was accustomed to very high end catering, as well as extravagant and unique displays and diverse selections of cuisine. When I became the owner of The Elan, I was determined to bring those same product offerings to New Jersey as well. I’m sure no one else in New Jersey is bringing a foie gras and blood orange mousse push-pop shooter topped with caramelized hazelnuts to an event! Not only do I have an innovative menu, but I also have a well-trained cooking staff that brings a certain level of quality that the preceding business did not have.

It’s also very important to love what you do, as your feelings about your business will reflect through your work. My dream was always to graduate from CIA and own a catering hall. A restaurant owner’s life consists of owning, operating, and running the restaurant, a

catering owner’s life consists of imagining the perfect celebratory moments in one’s life, and making them become a reality. Being self-sufficient, employing hard working individuals in this still yet tough economy, and giving back to the wonderful community where I own my business was very high on my priority list. Being a host during some of the happiest times in one’s life, and owning the facility in which it took place in, are the two most rewarding gifts of all. What more can I ask for? My job is always a party.

Following these three steps not only helped with our reputation, but also helped raise the level of the event industry in this area. My last piece of advice is a quote by Confucius, “Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life.”

Three Ways to Turn Around a Bad Reputation

THE ALPHABET OF FLAVORCaption This!

And you can win a $25 Coupon to the cia bookstore!!!

Tableside Service: A Thing of the Past?

GAZEBO GRIPES

Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Tofu?

Blood, Bones, and Butter, in the Flesh

“Keep your head down and do your work. The rest will work itself out.”

CIA Intercollegiate Women’s Volleyball

“Staff and Service can turn around any ban reputation.” Photo by: iStock Photo

Good news for female athletes out there. If you want to take part in the inaugural season of the CIA’s intercollegiate women’s volleyball program, get into shape during the summer break. With the new coach, Jamie Floryan, who has over twelve years of experience of playing volleyball, a promising future awaits.

“I’m extremely excited and honored to be given the opportunity to work with the CIA in starting and building the women’s volleyball program,” she said with enthusiasm. “I’m looking forward to a great season and working with the girls that come out for the team.”

The team is set for a full schedule this year with its first match against Bard College on August 8th. After a successful year at the club level in 2010, the team finished the season with a 4-1 record, and the school has decided to start a full-fledged varsity women’s volleyball program.

“The women’s volleyball will be the first team that is solely for women and it is a great opportunity for female students,” said David Whalen, Associate Dean for Student Activities, Recreation and Athletics. He added that a greater emphasis would be placed on women’s opportunities in the near future as he recognizes that it’s often “more difficult for the

female students to compete in sports in a coed environment.”

The intercollegiate athleticsprogram at the CIA has an eight-year history as the college’s basketball and soccer programs joined the HVMAC (Hudson Valley Men’s Athletic Conference) in 2004. Now, the new varsity women’s volleyball team will be competing as a member of the Hudson Valley Women’s Athletic Conference (HVWAC), which is a conference of four-year colleges from the metropolitan area that do not offer any financial aid based on athletic ability.

The popularity of the new varsity women’s volleyball program is high and the space is limited as a large number of potential players showed up for an interest meeting that was held in June. However, the team is still open to new members with the first tryout being held on Tuesday, August 2nd at 9:15pm in the Student Recreation Center, which will also mark the beginning of the program.

Regarding the qualities they are looking for in a potential player, Serge Nalywakyo, Coordinator of Aquatics and Outdoor Recreation said, “commitment, good attitude, and willingness to represent the school.” He highlighted the importance of “commitment” as the team will be practicing three nights a week—Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings—and the games

will take place on the weekends. There are also many benefits to being part of

the team. Working together in a team with the same goal, results in a valuable camaraderie among players, which Dean Whalen noticed in many sports teams on campus. Also, the players get to represent the Institute as he added: “When we go to the meetings, they really look to us as a leader because there are many schools at our conference that are very good academic schools such as Cooper Union and Sarah Lawrence. We are in a realm of schools likes that. We are proud of representing the Institute.”

When asked about the secret to many successful seasons of different CIA sports teams, Serge Nalywkyo pointed out that the CIA students are “committed and focused” and many qualities are a “carryover” from the kitchen, where they learn and practice teamwork to accomplish a task. He also added, “kudos to female students at CIA, once they start something here, they finish it.”

Often times, when students walk off the CIA bus at an away game, people assume they will be in bad shape a bad shape. However, it is soon proven otherwise and they leave the game telling people “and we can cook as well!”

BY: EUNBIT ChO

BY: ARI STARKMAN

A Column Dedicated to Highlighting Students’ Concerns

2LA PAPILLOTE

COMPACTLa Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and de-velop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or ac-cuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

Chef Freddy BrashIrena ChalmersGonzalo GoutJeff LevineDr. Kathy MergetBlayre MillerIan WilliamsJeanne CasagrandeLaura GanssleDan Castro

Eric JenkinsCodi ClausenRenata ZallesTim RyanAri StarkmanEunbit ChoJosh VenneAudrey HardiniaMauro SessaregoBrighdin Nemec

PUBLIShER The Student Affairs Division

EDITOR-IN-ChIEF Giulianna L. Galiano

LAYOUT EDITOR Shantel Mingo/Shaza Banna

ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug

EDITORIAL POLICY La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Please direct all submissions to:Giulianna Galiano, Editor-In-Chief LaPapillote@mycia.net

LETTERS POLICY Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

CONTRIBUTORS

July 7, 2011

FROM ThE EDITOR’S DESK

Can you believe that it’s that time of year again? The 4th of July. The one time of year when families get together, watch fireworks, wear red, white and blue and eat….. Well, eat what? I’m not quite sure myself!

You know, each holiday has that required “you-gotta-have-it” type of food. But which item really makes the 4th of July so special food-wise? Yeah, there’s the classic American BBQ with hamburgers and hotdogs, possibly corn on the cob and some baked beans. Oh and those supermarket cupcakes with sprinkles and little American flags, but is there any culinary creation that everyone must have in order for it to be a 4th of July party?? Unless somebody comes up with a dish that is as patriotic as stars and stripes, I think that each family will continue to hold their own Independence Day traditions.

I remember one 4th of July BBQ, I attempted to make my first homemade pound cake. Now, at the age of twelve, I wasn’t too bright when it came to baking. Pound cake and buttercream sounded

delicious! The thought of it being one-hundred degrees outside and a buffet full of light salads and fruit didn’t bother me. I went for the challenge, and thought I was successful until I realized the strawberry juice running down the white icing due to the heat. My uncle said it tasted good, which was all that mattered. Of course, I recognized the “dish” our family had to have each 4th of July. My Aunt would always make deviled eggs and turkey burgers while my dad’s cousin would be roasting brussel sprouts. Go figure, the most random dishes, but everyone would fight over them! I’ll never forget to dab strawberries again before placing them on white icing. If I ever see deviled eggs, I’ll think about my Aunt. The scent of cooked brussel sprouts and grilled turkey burgers will also always be in my memory.

Last year, everybody in my neighborhood came together and brought over marinated chicken, potato salad, buns, chips and soda to celebrate the 4th. We were all in our twenties and barely knew how to put together a block party but with a few streamers, a radio, ladder-golf and picnic tables, our night was set. A bit unorganized, but we still had a great time with our sparklers!

Back home, I usually go out with my brother and best friend to watch the wimpy fireworks and binge on munchkins and ice cream. Hey, it sounds weird but it sure makes good memories.

I may be a bit crazy with this eating thing, but each tradition I’ve experienced in my life has always involved food of some sort. I’m sure many of you agree with me, which is why I feel so comfortable in this school! This is that one holiday where people don’t really need to save up all their well-earned money to buy prime rib, turkey or ham (possibly a grill, but nothing over the top). I hope that everyone had a nice break off and has foodie stories that will never go out of style! And maybe one of you will come up with a treat in the future that is red, white, blue and edible!

Cheers!

Giulianna L. Galiano

Editorial

Not too long ago, one could walk into a nice restaurant, order a meal and have it prepared right in front of them. Since the gradual shift from traditional haute to modernist cuisine in the nineties, chefs have taken this form of service from the dining room back into the kitchen. Instead of letting the Maitre d’ shock and awe the customers, the execution of the dish was monitored by the head honcho behind the curtains, where they could control all aspects of their dishes.

Not only did tableside food preparation personalize the guest’s experience, but it took pressure off of the kitchen’s service. Guests were entertained with sounds of sizzles, cracks, pops, explosions of a hot flambé; the customers would sit with eager anticipation as they smelled the aroma elevating from the pan to the table. Skilled servers would carve meat, filet fish, toss salads, and even prepare a steak Diane on the occasion for all the room to see. These times, like a fashion statement,

have declined and disappeared from the restaurant scene, but for good?

Although it’s hard to take the time to cook personally for the customer in a busy restaurant, some still feature this form of service on their premises. Both casual and fine dining restaurants have brought back the old ways with a new spin.

Establishments such as Grant Achatz’s Alinea uses tableside service to showcase a dish they call “Chocolate-Blueberry, Tobacco, Maple”, a creation made of poached blueberries, blueberry gelée, spherified maple syrup, a block of chocolate mousse frozen with liquid nitrogen, malt ice cream, tobacco infused cream, and thyme. It is also shown in Gordon Ramsey’s Hells Kitchen, and Morimoto’s in New York featuring a Yosedofu tofu: a dish is presented with heated soy milk. The waiter adds nigari, which is a saltwater reduction high in magnesium chloride causing the soy milk to firm up, stirs the traditional Japanese concoction and covers it with a lid, eventually removing the lid and suprising the customer.

When tableside service was first used, there was only one take to execute the dish perfectly for the customer so it often took an experienced hand to prepare the foods publicly; showmanship at its finest. These days, like the Yosedofu tofu, tableside preparations can be cleverly plotted around any chance of mistake by creating a recipe that can be made in presence of guests with little to no needed experience from their servers. Morimoto gives the server a given amount of ingredients and lets science do the rest. Restaurants that do tableside services report not only having happier more satisfied customers, but an increased gratuity for servers as well.

What was once a thing of the past has come back in new and exciting ways as chefs use new concepts to elevate the normal dining experience. Tableside service has evolved into something exciting once again, touching on all human senses in an attempt to bring the patrons into their creations.

3

Culinary CulturEJuly 7, 2011

Photo by: Roxana Marroquin. newyork.timeout.com

Northeastern University’s new Stetson West dining hall is an example of the new and vastly improved food services on college campuses. Pizza ovens, sushi bars, stir-fried foods, pasta stations, grilling stations, Mexican, Indian, regional American, vegetarian, vegan and organically grown foods from local farmers are among the new menu options enticing students to eat well rather than relying on breakfast cereals, junk food and instant noodles.

Colleges everywhere are spending millions of dollars to attract more students. Not incidentally, new meal plans that commit students to buying their food on campus are adding big bucks to school revenues.

Alice Waters, along with her daughter, Fanny, led the change at Yale University, where Fanny was a student, to alter its food service so it included sustainable and organic foods. Their efforts have borne great resultus spurring Harvard, MIT, and other universities to join the initiative to make available, more healthful food alternatives for students and faculty.

Dining-hall services that have traditionally borne the brunt of jokes have acquired a new respect. The new dining hall at MIT is open twenty-four hours a day and has a chef on hand to cook food made to order. The enterprise is so successful that it is attracting students from all over the campus. At Smith College, the cafe in the new campus center serves made-to-order salads and sandwiches, freshly baked muffins and scones, and gourmet coffee. It is dedicataed to one of the college’s favorite alums, Julia Child.

These changes at colleges and universities mean there are job opportunities for trained cooks who want the challenge of running a large kitchen. An added perk is that at many colleges chefs are invited to attend degree courses for token tuition fees.

FOOD JOBSCollege Dining Hall Chef

BY: IRENA ChALMERS

Tableside Service: A Thing of the Past?BY: CODI CLAUSEN

This article is dedicated to the graduates of Pastry and Culinary this day of 7/8/11.

I can remember the day like it was yesterday—my graduation. Mom, Dad, Aunt Pat and Uncle Danny came to share this special moment with me.

This will really stun you, but we had boxed lunch in 1976. Yes, it was grand. The campus was beautiful and the weather could not have been better. The difference back then was that the kitchens were open to graduates and their families, where they could do tastings from small buffets. Think about it; the families really enjoyed that and we could even talk to the Chef-Instructors at the same time. Freddy B., lets get to the point.

A frustration I always hear from chefs in the industry is that the students from the Culinary Institute think they are chefs as soon as they graduate. We did not have that problem back in 1976. Students came to be working cooks of the kitchen and that is what we learned. It was drilled into our heads that you have to work in every station; garde manger, entermetier, grill, saucier, bouchet and even an education in pastry was necessary before you even considered taking a Sous Chef position.

All of us left the school with the necessary culinary skills to be successful in the business.

So Freddy B left the roost in Hyde Park and went into an Executive Chef training program with Hilton Hotels Washington D.C. When I arrived at the Statler Hilton in Washington, the kitchen was enormous with forty cooks. This is where I made my beginning.The Chef was Renato Violante, an Italian and you knew from day one, not to get on his bad side. So the journey began with a banquet: my first task was to roast twenty prime ribs (Ah!)

“Make a bordelaise sauce, prepare pommes chateau, and green beans,” chef ordered. They didn’t even ask if I had the knowledge. “Just do it and have everything ready by 6:00 on plates!” Well I wish I could tell you that this preparation went without a hitch, but it did not. We pulled the prime rib out of this gigantic rotating oven and it was raw! Our Sous Chef’s eyes were burning with anger. Needless to say, we scrambled, got it cooked and managed to keep our job. Was I ready to take the chef’s position? No!

I am very grateful to the Statler Hilton because

BY: ChEF FREDDY BRASh

Chapter Four: The Launch of Freddy B.

I did work every station in the Hotel, including the breakfast shift; cooking eggs, which is an art.

Renato Violante was a master of ice carving. I can still remember him putting on his plastic apron and goggles, taking a chain saw and heading into the walk in the freezer. All you could hear was the saw and his chisels. One day, he exited with a gondola, just like the ones you see in Venice, detailed right down to the wood finish.

I know I often refer to this but in the kitchen, it is all about fellowship and I will never forget the cooks at family meal inviting me to a pot of collard greens with cannellini beans and ham hocks. I had never had collards prepared in such a way.

So, “Chefs of the Future”, we are not ready yet but all good foundation relies on dreams. Therefore, dream on, work hard and you too will find yourselves in your own kitchen one day.

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on CampusLA PAPILLOTE

GAZEBO GRIPESA Column Dedicated to highlighting Students’ Concerns

Does obtaining a BPS Matter? You bet it does. In a recent article in the New York Times on Sunday, June 26, titled Even for Cashiers, College Pays Off, the author David Leonhardt describes the ongoing debate of whether the benefits (more employment options, higher pay) of obtaining a college degree outweigh the negatives (underprepared, debt). On the one hand, he points out the long standing theory that teenagers aren’t ready or prepared to enter college and therefore may opt out. On the other, he points to a large body of evidence that speaks to the benefits, BIG benefits of investing into one’s future and the long term gains that can go along with

earning a college degree. What I found interesting was the statistic quoted in this article claiming that “only about thirty-three percent of young adults get a four-year degree today while another ten percent receive a two-year degree.” I would have guessed a higher percentage overall get either a two year or four year degree. The good news is that it catapults all of you into an esteemed group whose marketability is pretty darn good. Couple that with your intense culinary skills and management knowledge and you’ve got a recipe for success.

But what does earning a bachelor’s degree translate to in dollars? Keeping in mind that Leonhardt focused on earning a bachelor’s in general, what he does point out is “returns from a degree have soared. Three decades ago, full time workers with a bachelor’s degree made forty percent

more than those with only a high-school diploma. Last year, the gap reached eighty-three percent. College graduates, though hardly immune from the downturn, are also far less likely to be unemployed than non-graduates.” We are proud of the XXX percent of our BPS graduates who are gainfully employed.

Does a BPS Matter? Yes. What matters more is your commitment to becoming one of the thirty-three percent of young adults to get a four year degree. Touche! For those of you who already have a bachelor’s degree, congratulations on your accomplishments. For those of you undecided, I invite you to read the full New York Times article atwww.nytimes.com/2011/06/sundayreview/261eonhardt.htm. If you have any questions, please drop me an email at bpsmatters@culinary.edu.

BY: DR. KAThY MERGET, Dean of Liberal Arts and Business Management

Thank you for sharing this with me. It is actually nice that our students want to see more of me, and I appreciate it. Wanting to see more of the president is not common on college campuses. In fact, I asked several of my colleagues who are college presidents elsewhere if their students felt that they did not get to see enough of them. They looked at me as though I was speaking some strange language. It turns out that their students do not expect to see much of them, nor do their students really care that they do not. That perspective mirrors my own experience and outlook as a student at numerous colleges. I attended the CIA and saw the president from afar on my first day and shook his hand on graduation day. I never met him personally during my student years, and frankly, that was fine with me. I had no expectation that we would spend time together and I was very satisfied with the education I was receiving. I did not really need to see him. I graduated with two degrees from the University of New Haven and met the president once when I walked across the stage to receive my MBA. That was fine with me too. He seemed like a good guy, and did a good job running the university. When I received my doctorate degree from The University of Pennsylvania, I recall barely being able to see the president on a distant stage from my seat on the field of a large stadium where I was perched along with several thousand others graduating that day. Penn’s graduation is so large that you don’t even walk across the stage and shake the president’s hand. You simply stand when they announce your degree and major----and the president confers the degree upon the standing group. So, I actually never did get to meet or even shake the hand of Penn’s president, though I admired her and thought she did an excellent job. While the examples above are probably more typical than not, the CIA is a unique institution, and I like the fact that students would like to spend more time with me. That said, I currently spend an extraordinary amount of time with students, probably more that most college presidents. Unfortunately, while spending a lot of time, I’m often doing the same thing over and over again---welcoming new students and graduating others. Such is the challenge with our Progressive Learning Year system (PLY). Every three weeks I thoroughly enjoy the opportunity to meet a new class of students who have chosen the CIA in order to pursue a career in the food service industry. Orientation day always makes me remember my arrival as a student here 36 years ago and the exciting path I have traveled in becoming a chef, teacher, administrator and college president. Beyond welcoming new students, an additional 3 times a year, I welcome returning groups of juniors pursuing bachelor’s degrees. In total, I perform 19 orientation speeches on this campus alone each year. Not many college presidents spend that much time

formally speaking to their student bodies. Add to that the fact that I preside over 19 graduations just in Hyde Park, and you are talking about a significant amount of time. A trustee whois an efficiency expert looked at my calendar a few years ago and came to the conclusion that with all of the activities related to orientation and graduation, I spend one full month every year “saying hi and saying goodbye.” I do not put forth these facts in any defensive way; they are simply the realities of my position and the complexities of the PLY system.

Along with my duties here in Hyde Park, I am also the president of the CIA campuses in California, Texas, and Singapore, so I have duties at each of these locations as well. I cannot be at every campus for orientation, but when I am on one of our other campuses I always try to have a reception for students so that we can meet and chat a bit. I preside over 3 graduations each year at Greystone, and thankfully, the campuses in San Antonio and Singapore are too new to have had any graduations yet…but that day will come.

In addition to the Day One orientation and graduations, I enjoy a number of student interactions throughout the year. Looking at my calendar from last year, I met 15 students on an individual basis (usually I do this over coffee in the Apple Pie Bakery Café), gave presentations to 3 class groups, met twice with the LaPapillote editor and student government officers, and hosted one of our victorious sports teams at a reception. I also gave evening presentations on Food Trends and the Campus Master Plan that were open to all students -- both of which included an Q&A session and an informal reception afterwards. I also invited the entire student body to the Annual Meeting (October), providing an opportunity for them to not only meet me but our Board of Trustees as well. Truthfully, I was surprised and a bit disappointed that so few students came to these events. Those that did had excellent experiences.

So far this calendar year I have continued to meet students for informal one-onone chats, met with 2 new LaPapillote editors, and had update sessions with the Student Government officers. Another presentation open to all students is being scheduled in the fall and will include opportunities for questions on any subject and a reception.

I have also been thrilled with the recent occasions during which I have introduced the student body to the top names in our industry. Our hosting of the 2010 Bocuse d’Or USA competition brought an unbelievable number of culinary stars to our campus. During that event, I introduced a demo by Thomas Keller, led a panel discussion of the country’s top chefs, was a judge, and also interacted with many students who attended the competition and receptions. Since that time, I also introduced the student body to presentations by notables such as Emeril Lagasse, Ferran Adria (twice), Nathan Myhrvold, Paul Bocuse and Grant Achatz.

These are important moments I try to share with you...providing you with opportunities to hear firsthand from the leaders in the food world. The accounting above, of course, touches on only the highlights. Beyond the high profile events, I also enjoy simply walking around the campus, or stopping by kitchens and bakeshops when I can. While my other activities don’t allow me as much time to just wander around as I would like, when you do see me, please do not be afraid to say hello. I enjoy interacting with you and like hearing what you are up to.

While orientations, graduations, special events and other student interactions take up a good bit of my time, I have many other duties to attend to. The role of a current-day college president is complex and includes numerous responsibilities: leadership, management, strategic planning, maintaining fiscal viability, fund-raising, and representing the institution to alumni, the industry, the media, and other external groups. Sometimes those duties require a demanding travel schedule. For instance, in the past two months I have been to our campuses in San Antonio and Napa Valley, attended a National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation Board Meeting in Kansas City, spoke at CIA alumni events is Los Angeles and Chicago, accepted an award in Washington D.C. where I talked about the CIA’s diversity initiatives, solicited gifts from donors in New York City and Seattle--- to name just a few off campus activities. While travel is part of the job, and often it involves weekends away from home, the majority of my time is spent here. In a complex and busy organization like the CIA there are countless meetings, phone calls, e-mails, correspondence, and visitors to host. And while those kinds of activities may keep me from walking around as much as I’d like, they often result in donations, innovations, partnerships with other prestigious institutions, and sometimes even new CIA campuses. All the while, my primary goal is to ensure that the CIA continually delivers on our mission of providing the world’s best professional culinary education and enhances our reputation as the world’s premier culinary college.

I value every opportunity during which I interact with our students here, at Greystone, in San Antonio and now Singapore. I would like to find an effective way to do so even more often. I’ve held student events, but typically they have not been well attended. I will continue to provide those kinds of opportunities for us to get together, and encourage you to come to them. When we return from summer break, I’ll also reserve one day a month as an “open door” day for individual student meetings. Perhaps that will prove to be a popular option. If you have any other ideas, please let me know. In the meantime, when you see me around campus---let’s chat.

- Dr. Tim Ryan

A Response to Students’ Concerns

BPS MATTERS

After spotting President Ryan in the hallways, CIA students have the tendency to react as though a celebrity has just passed by. Associate and bachelor students alike, inconspicuously steal glances, discreetly point fingers, and whisper to one another in order to call attention to President Ryan’s presence. Some students explain that President Ryan’s elusive nature provokes such unusual responses.

As for the alumni, many can recall shaking President Ryan’s hand when first arriving on campus and a second time at their graduation ceremony, but express continual concern for the shortage of handshakes in between. These same alumni, who clearly remember the details of President Ryan’s infamous carrot brunoise orientation speech, have

difficulties recalling any additional inspirational words provided by CIA’s leader.

President Ryan’s perceived absence, gives students the impression that the face of the school may be more of a myth than a man. One evening while in Courtside Café, a student who was recapping the events of her day, focused on a brief encounter with President Ryan. The student meticulously explained the details that occurred while President Ryan held the door for her as if it was the Dalai Lama in his place. While it is important to understand that most of these conversations are made in jest, the popularity of such discussions uncovers actual concerns- a portion of the student body does not see President Ryan as frequently as they would like to.

In general, students wish to establish a more personal relationship with the leader of the CIA who is ultimately entrusted with all decision making responsibilities. The student body recognizes how valuable an asset President Ryan is to our community and would only like to take advantage of such a prominent role model in the culinary field.

Editor’s Note: Brighdin Nemec was the former editor in chief for La Papillote. The Office of the President has previously addressed these issues by establishing an open forum with President Ryan on June 23, 2010 for all students to attend. The event was not as well attended as the administration had hoped

I represent the 6th term students. I’m from Atlanta, Georgia, and I am also a member of the Culinary Christian Fellowship. My dream is to enter into Restaurant Design or Beverage Management.

I am in 9th term Bachelors. I am from Hanover, PA. I am a Resident Assistant. One day, I hope to be a talented wedding cake decorator. Until then, I am going to work in baking and pastry positions to gain knowledge and experience.

I am an 8th term representative of Dean’s Council from New Hampshire. I am the treasurer of Eta Sigma Delta and the Co-President of Slow Food on Campus. My aspirations after graduation are cooking, travelling, and sharing delicious food in the company of friends and family since food always brings people together!

I am currently in 8th term. I am from Fort Worth, Texas, a great place! Along with Deans Council, I am presently involved in the Culinary Christian Fellowship and Eta Sigma Delta Honor Society. After graduation, I am moving down to San Antonio, Texas to hopefully work in some capacity at the Food Bank of San Antonio.

Ultimately, I want to help alleviate some of the hunger that so many in our country live with every day.

I am representing 9th term in the Dean’s Council. I am from Endicott, New York. When I graduate, I hope to work in a hotel or restaurant in a management position or back of the house in the pastry department.

I currently represent the 7th term BPS students. I am from Ringling, Oklahoma and have been active in The Student Government Association for two years now and am currently serving as the President. In the future, I aspire to come back and teach here at the CIA. After graduating from the BPS program, I am planning on starting a PhD program in Occupational Education.

I represent 7th term students. I am from La Paz, Bolivia. I am a member of Eta Sigma Delta as well as an active member of Fair Trade and Latin Fusion; I am also a tutor for BPS and AOS classes. I’m still not quite sure what I will do, but other than cooking I enjoy food photography, food writing, design, and beverage management.

From Your Dean’s CouncilON CAMPUS 5July 7, 2011

BY: RENATA ZALLES

I represent the 6th term students. I am from East Windsor, NJ. Apart from the Dean’s Council, I am also a Tour Guide for the Hospitality Department. After completing the Bachelor’s degree, I want to continue to gain industry experience learning about cuisine from various cultures and eventually get into culinary education, especially for disadvantage youth.

A couple of weeks ago, it occurred to Dean Merget that an article for this column should be dedicated to the student body, getting to know itss representatives better. So, in the spirit of full disclosure, here is a little sneak peak at who each one of us is, and a little visual aide so you can stop any of us in the halls and demand to have your voice heard:

I am a 9th term representative on the Deans Council. I am from Torrington, Connecticut, only about an hour and a half from campus. I am also the Vice President of SPICE (Student Programming Igniting Campus Entertainment) and a RA (Resident Assistant in Rosenthal hall.

8th term Deans’ Council Representative. I am from Baton Rouge, Louisiana and I currently serve as the BPS Representative in SGA. Looking ahead, I am interested in owning and operating a local food distributorship. I like to talk about food, all kinds. I like to talk about beer, all kinds. My favorite summertime activity would have to be boilin’ crawfish and soaking up the sun.

The Roman CatholicChapel of Our lady of the Way

Madonna della strada

+HOLY MASS

Sundays 1:00PM, Wednesdays Noon (This Mass is celebrated

in the extraordinary form)Holy Days Noon

Ashley DeAcetis

Renata Zalles

Audrey Morgan

Laura Crawford

Gail Agyeman

Robert McGehee

Alysia Hunt

Carolyn Ralph

Nicholas Alfano

Ryan Shepherd

LA PAPILLOTECENTER SPREAD6

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Editor’s Note: This article has been requested to be written by many of my classmates throughout the year. Especially through restaurant row, the whole concept of family meal has usually been a last minute, unwanted category of cooking. I thank Jeanne for writing how essential a quality family meal is for each kitchen. Ferran Adria also spoke about this concept when he came to visit CIA. Keep in mind, family meal will either make or break a good service. If there is no effort shown in a family meal, there will be little to no effort when it comes to cooking the food. It’s all a matter of respect.

Family. Meal. Family meal. It is a time to nourish and educate ourselves. It is a time to have a conversation about the food in front of us, to savor that food, and prepare for or reflect on the day. But will this be the case in the real world as well?

Here at school, we are taught to taste, taste, and taste again, analyze and even scrutinize our food, think, and talk about it. We are encouraged to take care of our bodies, and part of taking care involves eating slowly and mindfully, while sitting down. But if we don’t have to time to eat, we don’t eat. If we have only a small window of time to eat, we hop on a counter and shove food into our mouths, not really processing what we are eating. In some situations, there may be time to eat, but not enough food, as a result of over-selling or miscounting portions during service. And at times, we literally put family meal on the back burner and don’t give it the time and attention it needs because everything else takes priority. As a result, the quality of family meal suffers. So do we punish

our bodies even more than we already do this way? Or do we take the time to nourish ourselves, potentially taking away from the customer? The answer is not so simple. Time and Quality:

What happens when it is time for family meal, but there just isn’t time? For an AM student who doesn’t eat breakfast, skipping family meal could mean not eating until two o’clock in the afternoon, and going that long without eating isn’t fun for anyone. It seems like chefs here at school are divided on this matter. I estimate that half of my chefs thus far have given us at least a full fifteen minutes to eat no matter how behind we were. The other half was less generous with time. I spoke with a chef on the subject and he insists on giving students at least fifteen minutes to eat, no matter what. He said that everybody needs a decent amount of time to eat, and the short fifteen minutes can help boost morale.

Quality of family meal is linked to time because if you don’t have enough time to eat, you probably don’t have enough time to make a decent family meal. And if that is the case, people will not be happy with you. People do not want to eat snow peas with strings attached. People do not want to eat dry chicken. Family meal does not have to be anything elaborate, just nutritious, plentiful, and cooked properly.

We in the food industry love to eat, but that does not mean we will eat anything. I must share a story about when my class was in the lovely K-16. At the time, one of the restaurants was so understaffed that we were forced to serve their family meal at ten o’clock in the morning.

In other words, two separate services in the most hectic pre-extern kitchen. We couldn’t just make more of whatever we were serving that day, we had to utilize leftovers in our kitchen and others on campus. I hate to admit it, but it was a constant scramble to get it together, and I was not proud of the food we put out.Education and Well-being:

Every time we cook, it is expected that we learn something. Maybe we should learn something every time we eat, too. Here at school, we get to cook with rare ingredients at times, some of which we have never seen before. We have the right to eat those ingredients. How can we sell something when we haven’t tasted it enough to know about it? While in K-16, we never got to sit down with a plate of the food we sold because we ate what we prepared for the restaurant’s family meal.

Research suggests that it is better to sit down and think about what we are eating while we eat it and that eating slowly helps us realize when we are full. Restaurant life is not always conducive to these suggestions. And when we have to utilize what is leftover, healthy choices may not always be available.

Whatever the problem may be with family meal, it can almost always be attributed to not having enough time and not making it a priority. Chefs at school take off points from our grades for being late for service, late on clean up, and not producing at a certain standard. I can’t recall points ever being deducted because of something related to family meal. Family meal is just as much a priority as anything else. We take care of everyone else, but we need to take care of ourselves. We take plenty of pride in what we create for the customers, but we need to take pride in everything we create.

For students who strive be a chef owner, or even work in the culinary capital of the world, New York City, Gabrielle Hamilton’s memoir, Blood, Bones and Butter is a must read. Her unadulterated manner of storytelling is shocking but so realistic, so accurate, the reader is inclined to hang on to every word.

Hamilton’s story unfolds in a distorted manner, jumping from childhood to motherhood and back, yet it slowly interweaves into an end result that is sculpted and centered around her personal history. The reader is transported into Hamilton’s world through her incredible writing that not only paints a vivid picture of her surroundings, but pulls at the very deepest emotions humans experience. While her life is so rife with conflict and outrageous exploits, seemingly impossible for the average person to relate to, Hamilton’s descriptive, unsullied accounts overcome the disparities, and the reader can’t help but sympathize with her. Her restaurant, Prune, is a summation of this history: her life experiences conveyed through culinary creations, her memories portrayed in the table settings, the wall coverings, even in her choice in staff.

On June 29th, 2011, Gabrielle Hamilton was a guest speaker in the Renaissance Lounge of Hudson Hall. She did a reading from a chapter of Blood, Bones and Butter, describing a previous trip to the CIA for a culinary women’s conference. Some fellow male students complained afterwards that the speech was directed at women, harping on about the struggles women face in the culinary world and making men’s work in the kitchen seem like a piece of cake. In fact, I think the message Gabrielle was trying to convey was her desire for equality, for the resolution of the women versus men debate in the kitchen. She spoke about how satisfying it would be to be recognized as “one of the best chefs,” for once instead of the standard praise she regularly receives for being “one of the best

women chefs.” Hamilton’s message to those who enter the culinary force, who are no doubt slightly fearful and apprehensive, was continually expressed: “Keep your head down and do your work. The rest will work itself out.” Most culinary students are filled with a constant barrage of questions, wondering the keys to success and the balance to life, the challenges of having a family and a career. But Hamilton continually stresses that this isn’t a strategic industry with a straight, direct path to fame and glamour. It’s a road muddled with obstacles and uncertainty and the best way to find your course is to keep your head down and work hard. It will surely pay off in the end, whether you arrive at your intended destination or not.

As Hamilton spoke, I reflected on her story. Her concise way of speaking brought her words to life and as she spoke the character I had spent so much time reading about transformed into the woman in front of me. The chef who had overcome countless obstacles, struggled with the reality of forever working in kitchens, nearly failed numerous times and refused to give up was standing at the podium before us. She was living proof that hard work leads to success.

Although Gabrielle had no expectations of being a chef owner, when she stumbled upon the perfect space, she couldn’t help but envision the restaurant of her dreams. In 1999, Hamilton opened Prune, full of doubts and fears. Since then, Prune has received much acclaim and Hamilton is considered one of the best chefs in the industry. Blood, Bones and Butter has received widespread praise and was noted as the best memoir by a chef ever by Anthony Bourdain.

Blood, Bones, and Butter, in the Flesh

BY: LAURA GANSSLEFamily Meal ConceptBY: JEANNE CASAGRANDE

Photo by: foodists.ca

“Chefs at the CIA take off points from our grades for being late for service and late on clean up. I can’t recall points ever being

deducted because o f something realted to family meal” Photo by: stewardingdepartment.com

Eating family meal is typically a race aginst the clock. Photo by: thelifestreaming.blogspot.com

Family meal. Photo by: seriouseats.com

7July 7, 2011

Center spread

BACKSTORY: In April 1954, three charter members of the Mattituck Lions club were in Florida to visit a friend. At his invitation the four men went to the Plant City Strawberry Festival and the idea for the Mattituck Lions Club Strawberry Festival was born. On June 16, 1955, only a little more than three year’s after the club’s founding, the Mattituck Lions Club celebrated its first Strawberry Festival in the state of New York. This year the club celebrated its 57th festival.

I only have three words to say about this festival…..Strawberries, Strawberries, and Strawberries!!!

The 57th annual Mattituck Lions Club Strawberry Festival took place over the weekend of June 17th-19th with a lot of people flocking to Mattituck to get their annual fill of the juicy red berry. The festival featured rides, games, live music and of course, strawberry themed treats. With fabulous strawberry shortcake, daiquiris, pie, chocolate dipped berries and assorted strawberry drinks, it was hard not to get your fill of my favorite luscious fruit. The international food court had many culinary delights such as gyros, funnel cakes, roasted corn, sausages, hamburgers, French fries, pizza, ice cream, non-alcoholic beverages and coffee.

The event kicked off Thursday as volunteers and visitors hulled strawberries at the Strawberry Fields fairgrounds. The full activity fun kicked into full gear on Saturday from 11 a.m. until 11 p.m., when both carnival rides and craft vendors opened to sell their wares. The crowning of the “Strawberry Queen” made for an interesting afternoon and fireworks lit up the night sky. The 2011 Strawberry Queen was Kaitlyn Doorhy, 17, of Mattituck.

There was so much to do that you could make a day, evening or weekend of it. You had a choice of some farm fresh strawberry delicacies, you could take a ride on a super roller coaster, shop amongst the arts and crafts booths or listen to some outstanding music from Souled Out – a group that specializes in Classic R & B (but doesn’t have the classic R & B look) or watch many of the great attractions with the kids.

As a lover of traveling AND Strawberries it was only natural that I attended this festival, but in doing so I learned a lot about this delicious fruit:

The average strawberry has two-hundred seeds• Americans eat 3.4 pounds of fresh strawberries • each year plus another 1.8 pounds frozen per capitaThere is a museum in Belgium just for • strawberriesStrawberries are a member of the rose family• In medieval times, strawberries were served • at important functions to bring peace & prosperity.Strawberries are indigenous to every continent • except New Zealand, Australia, and Africa.A strawberry will not ripen once it is picked.• Strawberries do not grow from seeds. Instead, • they reproduce with long shoots of new growth.California produces over one billion berries • annually. Laying them side-by-side would allow them to circle the earth several times.Strawberries offer more Vitamin C than any • other berry. Less than eight strawberries will provide more than the suggested required minimum for children

Overall, the Strawberry Festival was a successful one and I will definitely be going back next year to participate in even more strawberry madness. Until next time.. -E (your traveling Culinarian)

Strawberries, Strawberries, Strawberries

Cupcakes, macarons, whoopee pies, and bacon paired with chocolate seem to have dominated the majority of the recent dessert scene. We seem to be getting back to the basics in the wake of the recent economic problems. Five hour long tasting menus and food from unknown sources are becoming unacceptable. People are ready to give up their “fad diets” filled with rules and restrictions and eat smaller amounts of feel-good style food. The majority of consumers are learning more and want to spend their money in a wiser manner. As an ever curious cook in the kitchen, I’m always trying to concoct something unique and new. I want to keep myself entertained and also satisfy the guests. Sometimes it works out and sometimes it doesn’t. I tend to stay away from sweets due to a number of different reasons. Finally during this past month, I feel like I have scratched the surface of something I can finally wrap my lips around in the realm of non-savory.

In 1905, an eleven year old boy named Frank Epperson took some powdered soda and put it in some water and stirred it with a stick. He somehow became distracted, and left it on the porch over night. The next morning it was frozen and stuck to the stick, thus the first documented discovery of a Popsicle was born. He first called it an “epsicle” and it took him about eighteen years to actually patent it. After years of his children asking for “pop’s sickle” he renamed his invention to a Popsicle. He sold his idea and it took off from there.

Although you can buy dozens of flavors from different companies at the average grocery store, I have yet to see ice pops on any noticeable menu. What is really stopping them from being served in finer styles of restaurants? If I had to guess, I’d assume that the biggest drawback is determining how to serve one. Maybe it’s to “casual” for some establishments, although I’d argue that it’s possible to make any food item upscale enough to serve anywhere. If you take a look at what Grant Achatz has been doing in the past decade, you can see how he has adapted dinner wear to his food and not vice versa. He has certain pieces, holders, and enclosures that have specific usages. What’s stopping ice pops from getting their own service piece? I am on a quest to make it happen.

After weeks of intense and hardcore research I settled on my favorite at-home ice pop molds. Tovolo’s Groovy Ice Pop Molds are the best I’ve come across yet, and they are very reasonably priced on Amazon. They pack a whopping six ounce volume, have a drip tray that you can drink out of after you finish your pop, and are made from durable long-lasting plastic. They also can be removed only one at a time, ensuring that you always have fresh popsicles at your convenience. There are two drawbacks to these molds as well. For some people, six ounces is just too much lolly (although you won’t find me complaining). The biggest blow led me to do hours more of research. If you lose one of the yellow bases, you can no longer use that particular mold, only enabling you to make five pops at a time instead of six.

After searching for my missing piece under the tilt skillet, behind the stacked convection ovens, and even in the dark depths of the walk-in, I knew I had to reevaluate the situation. I knew these molds wouldn’t even come close to cutting it for any sort of commercial production, although they worked great for staff morale and recipe testing. I hopped on Google and started to root around. I came to a website that is based out of Canada that sells popsicles during the season. I contacted the owner and he was kind enough to direct me to a website that manufactures ice pop molds and equipment for commercial settings. With a Vita-Prep, Robot-Coupe, and a commercial walk in freezer at my disposal, all I needed to order is one mold that makes up to twenty-eight pops at a time and an extractor. After buying the wood sticks, I only spent around $400.

I have to wait a couple weeks for my mold to be made and shipped, so I have been busy fantasizing about flavor combinations. Mango and tarragon team up in a fascinating fashion as does lemon and lavender. Strawberry and Banfi Rosa Regale pops bring a great ending to a hot summer day. Even something as simple as a watermelon-lime lolly can refresh the most parched victim of the season. As far as I’m concerned, with books like Paletas: Authentic Recipes for Mexican Ice Pops, Shaved Ice & Aguas Frescas by Fany Gerson coming out you can bet your little lolly that ice pops are here to make an impact in the coming years.

Something to Suck OnBY: JOSH VENNE

Stars and Stripes WeekendAt 10 pm on a beautiful Saturday night, streams of red, white, and blue lights transformed Anton Plaza into a patriotic bandstand as a spectacular twenty minute fireworks display officially began the 2011 Stars and Stripes Weekend. Alumni, Staff, students and local residents came out to enjoy the fireworks display as Lee Greenwood’s classic, “Proud to be an American” played in the background. Hundreds of students gathered to mingle, socialize, unwind and dance the night away, under a starry, rain-free sky as a DJ spun a mix of current Top 40 hits, techno, and even a little old school hip-hop. Free non-alcoholic refreshments were available for all the thirsty partygoers who danced until 2 am when the festivities closed down for the night.

The Block Party was held on Sunday next to the recreation center as the final event for the Stars and Stripes Weekend. Different clubs on campus and individual vendors set up various booths to give students a variety of activities and food tastings. My first stop was at Namaste’s booth which was serving Kheema Pav (which is Indian Sloppy Joe) and Nimbu Pani Indian lemonade), both of which were very tasty. Next I stopped at the Slow Food Paint –A – Pot Booth. This was a chance to pick one of four herbs (basil, dill, leek and parsley), pick a flower pot, paint it with your own special artistic creation and then plant your herb in the pot after it dried. My next stop was at the most popular attraction of the day….the bubble pool! Mounds and mounds of bubbles poured into a large inflatable pool as curious, interested and some slightly deranged people (maybe) walked, jumped, flipped and yes even wrestled in the foamy concoction. As one student screamed, “Bubbles

are the best!!!!!” and dove in face first, belly flop – style.

The Bacchus Society had their booth advertising White Sangria, but I didn’t partake in the libations they offered. The majority of the food was sold by the Gourmet Society, which offered: Chicken sandwiches, hamburgers & cheeseburgers (complete with a “fixins” bar), garlic fries, baked beans, potato salad, apple and berry pies, Coca cola, Diet Coke, Sprite, Dr Pepper, and water. The prices were very reasonable and the food was quite delicious. Then it was time to check out some sweets in the form of the Stephanie Cruz Corporations cotton candy and pixie stix making booth, where you were able to make your own pixie-stix. SPICE had the wheel of fortune, where a spin of the wheel could get you one of four prizes (I missed getting the T-shirt by one click) and our own SGA had a booth. There was a slurpee tent and a sand art tent as well. It was four hours of fun, food and bubbles and a great way to end the Stars and Stripes Weekend!

Photo by: Eric Jenkins

BY: ERIC JENKINS

BY: ERIC JENKINS

Photo by: alloveralbany.com

8LA PAPILLOTE

Food &Tofu is one of my very favorite foods. It’s delicious, nutritious, and can be used in so many ways in cooking. Granted, I’m a vegetarian, so you might be thinking I don’t really have a choice in the matter; it’s pretty much tofu or bust, right? I actually started eating tofu regularly about ten years ago while working at a great little Japanese restaurant in Seattle called Mashiko, years before I even thought about not eating meat any more. Tofu is a common component of Japanese cuisine, eaten by both vegetarians and meat eaters alike. It is also used regularly in China, where it was created somewhere between 1500 – 2000 years ago (nobody knows for certain exactly when tofu was first made), Korea, Indonesia, and Vietnam. The spread of tofu around Asia was almost certainly the result of the travels of Buddhist monks, many of whom were vegetarian and used it as an important source of protein in their diets.

Tofu is also one of the most maligned foods I am aware of in our country. I think there are probably more people out there who say they hate tofu than people who say they hate peas or broccoli or any other “icky” vegetable. I was watching the most recent episode of Food Network Star this week and one of the contestants made a lettuce wrap dish with tofu since the ground meat he had wanted to use couldn’t be found at the store. Guest judge Paula Deen, upon seeing his dish, felt sorry for the contestant. She was actually convinced he was going to lose the challenge just because he had used tofu! This attitude makes me so sad; to so disdain a food that has been eaten by billions of people for thousands of years, simply because it is not meat, seems very closed-minded. And it’s not just Paula Deen; I’ve heard people here at school express similar sentiments. I do have to tell you, though, when she actually did taste the dish, she said it was delicious. Score one for tofu.

So, what’s to like about tofu? It doesn’t taste like much on its own. I read an article in a car magazine of all places where the author was discussing his sad cubicle, talking about how beige and boring it was, and he compared it to tofu. Have any of you eaten chicken recently? How often would a good cook serve plain chicken, with no sauce, no herbs, no spices, nothing to add flavor? You can’t do that with tofu either (though you can eat it right out of the package without cooking it, unlike chicken). One of my favorite tofu dishes is called hiyayakko. When we had this for family meal at Mashiko, it was cubes of soft tofu topped with thinly sliced scallions, katsuobushi (flakes of smoked and dried skipjack tuna, obviously not included for a vegetarian version), sesame seeds, and nanban sauce (a Japanese version of sweet and sour, made of rice wine vinegar, sugar, and soy sauce), but simple soy sauce can be used instead. Made with chilled tofu, it’s a very cool and refreshing meal, especially after a hot night working in the kitchen. There’s a little Chinese restaurant in Shokan called Ming Moon that makes a sesame tofu dish, firm tofu fried and tossed in a delicious sweet sesame sauce with broccoli that is to die for. I always get two orders so that I have one for the next day. There are far too many good tofu dishes to talk about all of them here. Just remember to treat tofu like any other ingredient: use it in a thoughtful way and put flavor into the dish. I promise it won’t bite.

BY: IAN WILLIAMS

Who’s Afraid of The Big Bad Tofu?

Every family has their traditions. Some have taco nights, movie nights, or even hunting trips. My family has cannolis! Both sets of my grandparents grew up in Philadelphia, PA, so I am very familiar with the awesome Philly spots to eat, like Geno’s, Pop’s, and of course my favorite, Termini’s bakery. Ever since I can remember, if my grandparents visited Philly, a stop at Termini’s to pick up cannolis was a must! We love them so much that we named our cat Cannoli! Of

course, when I started going to school in NY, I was not as close to my creamy crunchy Italian delicacy as I would like to be. So, I set out on a quest to search NYC for the best cannolis and other Italian pastries that I could find.

My quest for “dolcezza”, or sweetness, brought me to Mulberry Street. For those of you who aren’t very familiar with NYC, Mulberry Street is also known as Little Italy. Walking down Mulberry Street is like stepping out of the hustle and bustle of New York City and straight into Europe. Don’t be surprised to hear Italian, French, and German swirling around you. In the summer, all of the amazing Italian restaurants set tables and chairs outside where Brooks Brothers and Gucci-wearing men and women sip espresso. As you walk past each restaurant, you might even be approached by a suave Italian man calling “hellooooo

ladies! Come-ah and get-ah zee best pizza around-ah!” In order to reach Ferrara’s, you need to walk pretty

much all of the way through Little Italy, and turn right on Grand Street. You won’t miss it because of the huge ice cream cone hanging on the front door, and the beautiful gold sign. In the summer, you might also see a gelato cart sitting outside with a line formed behind it (I recommend the stracciatella flavor). Once you step inside, prepare to take in an Italian candyland!

Ferrara’s opened in 1892 by Enrico Scoppa and Antonia Ferrara as a place for people to go and have espresso after a night at the opera. When you enter, you have the choice to either get in line to take pastries or gelato to-go, or to sit and enjoy your pastries or gelato with some espresso. Their pastry

case is always filled to the brim with a wide variety of Italian specialties, from lobster claws, a huge variety of biscotti and cookies, cakes, cheesecakes, and of course, cannolis (you can even get them dipped in chocolate!). According to the website, during the Depression, the bakery started making their delicious pastries in small batches to assure that nothing would be wasted. This tradition still remains today and is why Ferrara’s is known for its freshness. My favorite part is that they make two-to-three bite versions of all of their large pastries so you can have more variety.

So readers, I promise, when it comes to all things sweet and all things Italian, I will never steer you wrong. The next time you are in the City, take a stroll through “Europe”, and enjoy a cannoli. If you don’t do it for me, do it for my cat!

There probably isn’t a single person on the CIA campus who doesn’t know about the Eveready diner. And how many times have we resorted to heading there for some food because we couldn’t think of anywhere else to eat? For those of you who don’t know, the owners of the Eveready are some pretty prosperous people. They have two other restaurants along Route Nine, including the Double O Grill, and one of my favorite places to eat, the Coyote Grill. If Eveready is your go-to place for diner food, and Double-O is your place for bar food, Coyote Grill will become your date-night, girls-night-out, late-night-snack, and college-style-birthday-party spot.

Inspired by a 1950s roadhouse, the Coyote Grill has over one-hundred menu items, and a super-cool martini lounge. One of my favorite parts about the Coyote is its décor. It is very intimate with cool mood lighting and awesome western/country-style photos on the walls. Believe it or not, we actually have some

picky eaters that go to the CIA (gasp!!!!), and for some reason, most of them happen to be my friends. This is unfortunate for me, because I tend to be a pretty adventurous eater. Last year, I had my twentieth birthday dinner at the Coyote, and by some stroke of luck, everyone was satisfied with their meals! Really though, it wasn’t a stroke of luck. It was the crazy-huge menu that the Coyote Grill offers, including a very large selection of appetizers, pasta bowls, sandwiches, wraps, quesadillas, steaks, salads, and other entrees. The difference at the Coyote is that all of their food is fresh and each dish has a little twist to it, like the crabcake club sandwich that I enjoyed. Of course, one of the main reasons I head to this place is for the dessert (really, are you surprised?). For those of you who don’t know me, I am on a never-ending quest to find the absolute best brownie sundae, and the one at the Coyote Grill is pretty darn good. They hit all of the qualifications: huge warm brownie, pools of hot fudge, plain vanilla ice cream. Heaven.

So if you are a frequent Eveready customer, try their sister restaurant for a change. Take your friends, your parents, your RAs (we love generous residents!) and of course, be sure to end your meal with a brownie sundae!

VALLEY EATS & CITY SEEKS

The Valley

The City

BY: BLAYRE MILLER

Coyote Grill2629 South Road

Poughkeepsie, ny 12601

Ferrara195 Grand Street

New York, NY 10013

Photo by: ferraracafe.com/

FOOD & BEVERAGE 9July 7, 2011

BEvEragE

It looked like an intimate “New York Wine-Expo”. The event was ultimately prestigious thanks to the presence of one-hundred and thirty-nine wines. There were award winners of the “Tre Bicchieri”, the highest recognition of the wine rating association and “Gambero Rosso”, the most authoritative Italian magazine when it comes to critique.

At the Palais des Congrès de Montréal on Wednesday June 8th 2011, a sold out event took place with record sales. More than seven-hundred wine aficionados from every corner of Quebec paid $200 CAD a ticket to view this gala of Italian wine (the profit went to the Hôpital Maisonneuve-Rosemont). They flooded the rooms for their first approach to these record achieving wines. The best Italian wines were available, offered by the wine makers themselves. With their outmost pride, these wineries shared their fruit of labor and passion to wine enthusiasts in this small corner of the world. For years, these people could only taste these wines by going to the producers.Biondi Santi, Ca’ Del Bosco, Bellavista, Ornellaia, Barone Ricasoli, Banfi and Michele Chiarlo were only but a few of the award winning wineries available for taste and immediate purchase.

In less then four hours, wine enthusiasts, sommeliers and hospitality operators purchased over one million Canadian dollars of wine, $ 250.000 CAD to be exact. This was more than last year’s event.

Just up to five years ago, European imported wine in Quebec was 95% French and 5% Italian. Now due to the strong emerging request for the “Made in Italy” quality, numbers have reached 60% French and 40% Italian. The large request for Italian wines has made Quebec change their purchasing strategies. This trend was recognized in “Gambero Rosso”, the infamous Italian magazine. The event next year will extend to Toronto in the province of Ontario.Let’s see what record sales will be next year. “Cheers” and “Cin Cin.”

BY: MAURO SESSAREGO, Associate Professor

Canadians Drink Italian Wine

Whenever we think of the Fourth of July Weekend, we think about little kids (or ourselves in the past) selling lemonade on wooden, rickety stands. It actually goes back further than what you might think.

Lemonade in the 1600’s was sold by a group called “Compagnie de Limonadiers”, when it was then considered the first soft drink. This gradually improved from the first drinkable carbonated water made by Dr. Joseph Priestley, to a later improved drink including sulfuric acid with assistance of machines. This drink was then brought over in South Carolina where it did not gain popularity until 1807, when it grew high in demand as it started being considered as a “health” drink.

Another summer drink fad that we can think about in America is the classic “Sweet Tea” – a southern sensation. Recipes for this tea have existed over two-hundred years, but it was popularized in the World’s Fair in 1904. The basic recipe for making tea so sweet is to add sugar to the boiling water before brewing the tea. This process allows for “supersaturation” of the solution, which lets the tea hold more sweetness under cold temperatures. Because of its’ growing popularity across the nation, millions of this cold drink are now consumed every day.

When we grew out our rickety lemonade stands, we then decided to “expand our palate”, per se. We started trying smoothies, whether it came from Robeks, Jamba Juice or any other smoothie place that came to mind. A simple recipe for a smoothie is fresh fruit, ice and yogurt (as far as my knowledge goes). Some of the recipes came from Brazil, and some came from the 1940’s Waring Blender cookbooks which published recipes such as “Banana Smoothies”. The term was then wide-spread by the media and became popular in modern pop culture. Places mentioned above (Robeks, Jamba Juice) have elevated their recipes by using frozen yogurts and natural additives such as wheatgrass for tastier or healthier effects. It’s really up to the person who craves it.

The act of drinking has been essential to mankind throughout its existence. People say that variety is the spice of life. The odd, yet common factor between the two is that these various types of drinks have continuously evolved and celebrated throughout the world, spicing up life in some way or the other whether it is making a five year old kid happy or getting people giddy.

BY: DAN CASTROCool Drink Facts

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Everyone enjoys a refreshing glass of Sangria on a warm summer’s day, or a nice chilled glass of punch at a family gathering or party. Though some of us are only familiar with the non-alcoholic versions of punch at our high school prom, both Sangria and punch were originally intended to be made with a base of alcohol. Unknown to most, Sangria and punch are not too different. Both are fruit flavored, sweet chilled drinks, and are traditionally poured at family gatherings or parties. Their often non-discussed histories both have humble beginnings with the British.

Sangria, a beverage thought to be native to Spain, was in fact adopted by the Spaniards as a variation of the British drink called Claret. The popular beverage Claret was a blend red of wines from Bordeaux, France with the addition of brandy and fruit to infuse flavor. The Spanish adopted this coveted British recipe and altered it to suit their needs and culture.

Sangria is a combination of Spanish red wine, fresh seasonal fruit, and a splash of bubbly water or citrus flavored soda. The only difficult task to making it is the time you must wait to allow the flavors to marinate before diving in! The Sangria phenomenon

has grown across many nations and now includes many tasty variations to suit everyone’s preferences.

Some of these variations include, white wine based, a blend of both red and white wines and the ‘instant’ sangria, for which you puree your fruits and freeze the slushy-like mixture in ice cube trays. This last method allows the cubes to slowly melt fruit flavor into your Sangria versus having to wait for the traditional method of soaking the fruit for flavor. Also there is the ‘single fruit flavored’ Sangria, where only one fruit is utilized to flavor the beverage instead of a variety of fruity flavors, as well as a variety with more of a kick; using vodka or other spirits to turn the Sangria up a notch.

Arguably Sangria’s big brother, punch does not have such strongly rooted ties to any certain country. Punch, in today’s time has become a generic term for any mélange of juices, bubbles, and fruit. I can remember having Halloween punch as a child and my parents utilizing dry ice to create an ever bubbling punch that billowed smoke. It has almost become an American party ‘tradition’.

The origins of punch, just as Sangria, were made

popular by the British. Punch was originally brought by England from India in the early 17th Century. The first recipe for punch only included five simple ingredients; alcohol, sugar, lemon, water, and tea or spices. The word punch was derived from the Hindi word panch which means‘five’. It became amazingly popular and has since spread to several countries.

Variations of punch include, Southern Bourbon Punch (sweet tea, citrus and bourbon), Cups (a traditional British hunting drink composed of wine, cider, sloe gin or liqueurs as the base with fruit juice or soda) and Rum Punch (including, Planter’s Punch, Bajan Rum Punch, and Caribbean Rum Punch).

International punch variations include, Sujeonggwa from Korea (dried persimmons, cinnamon and ginger), Agua Loca from Mexico (fermented sugarcane, mescal or tequila blended with agua frescas) and a traditional German Christmas punch known as Feuerzangenbowle (red wine and flaming rum poured over a conical shaped piece of sugar).

Sangria and punch are not so different after all. Both have similar heritages and basic recipes as well as reasons for use; parties, gatherings and an overall good time.

The freedom is yours to utilize your culinary creativity to make a delicious, festivity pleasing concoction.

Whatever you may call it, Sangria, punch, Agua Loca, or Feuerzangenbowle, please be smart and consume these beverages with moderation.

Sangria vs. PunchBY: AUDREY hARDINIA

Photo by: en.wikipedia.org

Sangria - Photo by: internationalrecipes.net

Bourbon Punch -Photo by: internationalrecipes.net

Pot luCkLA PAPILLOTE10

BPS Graduating Class of July 7, 2011

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Neil Golub, CEO and chairman of the board of Price Chopper Supermarkets, is a career supermarket executive. His family pioneered the supermarket industry segment in 1932, and as a result, Mr. Golub grew up in the business and subsequently has witnessed almost all of the company’s growth as well as the evolution of the segment and its trade associations.

Price Chopper operates 128 stores in New York, Vermont, Connecticut, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire. Unique to the Schenectady, NY-based company is the equity position of its employees, who own more than 50% of its stock. Mr. Golub is a strong proponent of family in business and is in the process of preparing the next generation to assume control. In 2008, his career accomplishments were recognized with a Lifetime Achievement Award from Modern Grocer magazine and Retail Executive of the Year Award from Grocery Headquarters.

Mr. Golub also supports the supermarket industry through service such as chairing a New York State Commission on Beverage Containers and serving on the executive committee and board of the Food Marketing Institute. In 2006, the New York State Senate awarded him the Liberty Medal, its highest award for a private citizen.

Active in the community, Neil Golub’s many contributions include serving as life honorary chairman of Paul Newman’s Double H Hole in the Woods Ranch in Lake George, NY and as national vice president of the Muscular Dystrophy Association. He is also chairman and co-founder of Schenectady 2000, a major community project that triggered the city’s renaissance, and a board member of the Schenectady Public Metroplex Development Authority—the community’s economic engine since 1999. Mr. Golub is a trustee emeritus of the Ellis Hospital Foundation, a foundation trustee of Sunnyview Rehabilitation Hospital, a trustee for the Jewish Community Center, and a former board member of the Schenectady Foundation and the regional and Capital District Anti-Defamation Leagues.

Mr. Golub and his wife Jane, who works as director of vendor marketing programs at Price Chopper, underwrote the Neil & Jane Golub Breast Care

Center at Bellevue Woman’s Hospital in Niskayuna, NY as well as the Golub Emergency Services at Ellis Hospital in Schenectady. Since 1987, they have been deeply involved in the development of A World of Difference, an educational anti-prejudice program that is working its way through major cities in the U.S. The pair has been widely recognized for their program with several prestigious honors, including the Schenectady County’s Human Rights Award and the New York State Teacher’s Association Award.

A member of the Society of Fellows of The Culinary Institute of America, Mr. Golub holds a business degree from Michigan State University in East Lansing, MI and a master’s from Cornell University in Ithaca, NY. In addition, he was awarded an honorary doctorate from Russell Sage College in Troy, NY and is a life trustee for Union College in Schenectady, NY.

Neil M. GolubCEO and Chairman of the Board

Price Chopper Supermarkets

AOS Graduating Class of July 8, 2011

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Toque of the TownBY: JEFF LEVINE, Media Relations

TIM RYAN TO LEAD CIA FOR AT LEAST ANOTHER DECADEThe CIA Board of Trustees has announced the renewal of the contract of Dr. Tim Ryan as President of the college for a 10-year term.

Dr. Ryan has led the CIA for a decade, stewarding the college through a period of enormous innovation and growth. Major advances have included the opening of new campuses in San Antonio, TX and Singapore; the expansion of the CIA’s gold-standard degree programs from its main campus in Hyde Park, NY to these new centers and the CIA at Greystone, in St. Helena, CA; and the rapid growth of CIA thought leadership for the foodservice and hospitality industry through new research programs, industry conferences, and publishing.

Chairman of the Board Richard Bradley summarized the Board’s unanimous decision: “We are delighted that Dr. Ryan will be at the helm as we embark on some of our most ambitious plans yet for The Culinary Institute of America. The Board is thrilled with the CIA’s leadership and strategy. We look forward to continuing the college’s traditions

of excellence in culinary education and thought leadership under Dr. Ryan’s visionary direction.”

In commenting upon the re-appointment, Dr. Ryan said, “I am honored by the trust and support of the CIA Board of Trustees. Although proud of our accomplishments over the last 10 years, we have many exciting plans ahead which will continue to position the CIA at the forefront of culinary education. Our programming and initiatives in thought and industry leadership – both globally and here at home – are establishing new benchmarks and contributions to food preparation, healthy eating and culinary innovation.”

Dr. Ryan has the unique qualification of being a Certified Master Chef. He holds an MBA from the University of New Haven and his Doctorate in Education from the University of Pennsylvania. He is the CIA’s fifth president. A 1977 graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, Chef Ryan is the first alumnus and the first faculty member to rise to the presidency of the CIA.

AOS Graduation SpeakerWhen Stan Frankenthaler was studying as an English literature major at the University of Georgia, he never imagined that he would someday prepare the menu for the wedding of Elizabeth Taylor’s daughter. Nor could he dream he would be touring kitchens with Julia Child or authoring best-selling books on cooking. And he certainly never expected to be recognized as one of

the country’s leading chefs and the owner of one of Boston’s most celebrated restaurants.

Since deciding to abandon the literary world for the culinary profession more than 20 years ago, Chef Frankenthaler has established a long and respected career, earning national recognition as a top chef and culinary innovator. In 2005, he brought his talent to Dunkin’ Brands as its first executive chef. Leading Dunkin’s team of renowned chefs and specialists, Chef Frankenthaler is working to create new and exciting menu items that will raise the bar on quality and taste in the quick service restaurant industry.

Growing up in Savannah, GA, Stan Frankenthaler’s passion and talent for cooking began as a small boy in the kitchen of one of his greatest influences, his grandmother. By age 13, he had earned sole responsibility for cooking his family’s dinners. Two of his inspirations—watching his family gathered around the dining room table enjoying his innovative creations, and spending hours in front of the TV watching Julia

Child—fueled his appreciation for quality food and the gratification it brought people.

Upon graduating from the University of Georgia in 1982, Chef Frankenthaler pursued his culinary career at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, where he graduated first in his class. He then embarked upon several years traveling the world, studying food in France, Italy, Spain, Mexico, Japan, and Thailand, and cultivating new cooking ideas as he studied different cultures.

After serving as chef for several of Boston’s top restaurants—including time as head chef at 1976 CIA alumnus Jasper White’s first Boston establishment, Jasper’s—Chef Frankenthaler opened his own restaurant, Salamander, in 1993. Salamander was a celebrated part of the city’s culinary landscape for nearly 10 years, earning recognition from Zagat’s as one of Boston’s Top Ten Restaurants. In 2001, Chef Frankenthaler co-authored The Occidental Tourist, a New York Times’ “Editors’ Pick,” on preparing Asian-influenced dishes at home.

In addition to his career, Chef Frankenthaler has been active in the community. His many contributions include working for six years on the national board of overseers of Chefs Collaborative 2000; serving as a member of the culinary advisory board of EcoFish, Inc.; and organizing dinners and participating in fund raisers for causes such as Share Our Strength and the AIDS Action Committee.

A three-time James Beard Award nominee, Chef Frankenthaler has appeared on the Food Network and National Public Radio, and has been featured in Bon Appétit, Gourmet, Esquire, Art Culinaire, Food Arts, Travel & Leisure, and Forbes.

Stan Frankenthaler ’84Vice President, Executive Chef—

Product InnovationDunkin’ Brands

L.A. STUDENTS COME TO CIA AS PART OF FOOD REVOLUTIONFour students from West Adams Preparatory High School in Los Angeles won an all-expense-paid trip to the Hyde Park campus on the ABC television program Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution.

On the season finale, taped earlier this spring and aired on June 24, the team from West Adams won a cooking competition against students from other Los Angeles high schools. Part of the prize was to spend a day at the CIA. In April, the students took a tour of the campus and had a hands-on cooking class. They also had meals in two CIA restaurants. The group followed

up its visit to the CIA with a day of additional unique culinary experiences in New York City.

The students had never been to New York before this trip. After seeing the campus, visiting classes, and eating in the restaurants, three of the four are interested in returning to the CIA to earn their bachelor’s or associate degrees after graduating from West Adams.

Information about Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution and the cooking competition that resulted in the visit to the CIA can be found at http://abc.go.com/shows/jamie-olivers-food-revolution.

The CIA Bakery Café at the San Antonio campus was recently honored with the San Antonio Express News’s Critics’ Choice Award for “Best Bakery” for 2011.

Overlooking the teaching kitchen at the CIA San Antonio, the CIA Bakery Café allows guests to watch CIA students in action while enjoying light café fare including soups, salads, and sandwiches, as well as classic pastries.

CIA alumni were also represented in the awards, as the three winners selected for Readers’ Choice and Critics’ Choice Awards for “Best New Restaurant” are all graduates: Johnny Hernandez ’89 of La Gloria, John Besh ’92 of Lüke, and Michael Sohocki ’00 of Gwendolyn.

BAKERY CAFÉ AT SAN ANTONIO CAMPUS EARNS PLAUDITS

Submit a wacky cap-tion for this picture to: LaPapillote@my-cia.net for a chanceto win a $25 Coupon

to the cia bookstore! The deadline for receiving entries

is Friday, aUGUST 12tH 2011. Look out for the winning caption iN our next issue!

Caption This!

H is for...An Exploration of Random Culinary Trends, Facts, Ingredients, and Information.

ThE ALPhABET OF FLAVOR

BY: GONZALO GOUT

Congratulations!Jessica Villmore

You Won!

“No, you’re supposed to

wait until I’m asleep to put it on my hand and try to get me to smear it on my face...”

Hallacas

In the North End of South America, especially in Venezuela, this is a traditional dish similar to the Mexican tamal. It is ground beef, pork or chicken

mixed with other ingredients, then surrounded with corn dough and then boiled or steamed wrapped inside a banana leaf. They are generally served at

Christmas. Picture by: veganlatina.com

Halva

A Middle Eastern confection made with sesame seed paste, or some other seed or nut butter, and sweetened

with honey or sugar. It is normally combined with dried fruits and nuts and formed into a block which is

sliced for consumption. Picture by: cgi.ebay.com

HamantaschenA triangular shaped Jewish confection made for the

celebration of Purim. They are filled with prune, poppy seeds, or apricot. Picture by: thekitchn.com

Handkase

A strong German regional cheese from Frankfurt. The name, which means “hand cheese” comes from the

hand-shaped rounds or cylinders. It is a very pungent cheese made with sour cows milk. It is usually served

as a snack and traditionally topped with Caraway seeds. Picture by: grill-haus.com

Anna Hansen Originally from Canada but raised in New Zealand,

from Danish influence, Chef Hansen now lives in London. After working for numerous years at Fergus Henderson’s prestigious French House Dining Room in London, she finally opened her own restaurant, The

Modern Pantry, to great critical acclaim.

Huevos Rancheros

Translated literally to “ranch eggs” or country eggs, this is one of the most popular Mexican breakfasts. It involves a fried tortilla topped with a fried egg and a layer of salsa, typically cooked. Variations exist from household to household in the style and spiciness of the salsa, in the addition of beans or not, but they all

agree in that it is the best way to start your day. Picture by: blog.visitlondon.com

Huitlacoche

A fungus that grows on the ear of corn, and makes the kernels swell about ten times their size and

accquire a grayish hue. Although it is an undesirable characteristic among American corn growers, in

Mexico, through Aztec tradition, it is considered a delicacy for its characteristic smoky flavor, somwhere in between a mushroom and corn. It is normally sold canned, but when fresh, it is used in preparations in

the same way mushrooms are. Picture by: greenfusestock.photoshelter.com