Knitting Introduction

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KNITTING

0 8 - 0 6 - 1 1 1M U H A M M A D U S M A N J A V A I D


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Introduction

Knitting Introduction

Weaving vs Knitting

Basics of Knitting

Parts of Loop

Type of Loop

Wales and Courses

Technical Face/Back and Upright

Loops/Stitch Density

Gauge of Machine

Types of Knitted Fabrics

Types of machines

Type of Knitted Fabrics Weft Knitting vs Warp Knitting

Needles and Loops

Weft Knitted Fabrics

Warp Knitted Fabrics



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Knitting is a method of constructing fabric byintermeshing series of loops of one or more yarns.

In 1589, first knitting frame was developed byWilliam

lee There are two main categories of machine knitting :

Warp knitting and

Weft knitting.

Fabrics inboth these categories consist essentially of aseries of interlinked loops of yarn.



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Adiversityof constructions, and the variety of fibres and finishesavailable.

Generally soft and lightweight.

Good drapability.

Knitted fabrics conform to the figure without constricting the wearer. A high order ofwrinkle resistance.

Creases in knitted fabric brush right out.

Comfort.

The knitted structure is porous.

It allows the skin tobreathe freely.

Its elasticity permits greater freedom of bodymovements

Ease ofcare.

Knitted apparel launders without difficulty.



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Sportswear(conformity, flexibility)

Casual wear (comfort)

Dresswear (styling)

Technical textiles application (medical textile such ashernia mesh, vascular grafts, composite structures, suchas nose cones for supersonic aircrafts)



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1. Woven fabrics are constructed by the interlacing of twoor more sets of yarns, which does not allow the fabric tostretch to any marked degree unless it is specially

stretch-woven. If a certain amount of stretching isnecessary, woven fabric must be cut on the biasthat is,in a diagonal direction. Even then the fabric can bestretched only in the direction of the diagonal cutting.

The advantage of stretch ability in knitted fabrics is animportant consideration where fit and comfort areconcerned they fit the figure but do not bind it.



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2. Knitted fabrics also give warmth because of theinsulative air pockets contained in this type ofconstruction.

Yet they are porous and provide breathing comfort because body movements cause the loops to expand andcontract, thus pushing air through close-fittinggarments.

However, unless the fabric is heavily napped or foam

laminated, it is not windproof.



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3. Knitted fabrics are very absorbent, light in weight, andwrinkle-resistant.

4. It is usually unnecessary to iron them after packing and

laundering.5. However they may shrink considerably more than

woven cloth unless special techniques and shrink-proofing processes, such as Pak-nit or permasized areused.



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4. Certain kinds of knitted fabric have one seriousdisadvantage: if one of the loops breaks, a hole is made,which starts a run.

This disadvantage can be eliminated by variation in thestitch, which protects the fabric from raveling if anysingle stitch is broken.



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5. Some knitted fabrics tend to lose their shape and sag.

This tendency can be avoided by using a more closely

constructed knit, giving the yarn a tighter twist, andusing such special techniques as the double knit.



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6. Designs can be changed very rapidly in various types ofweft knitting.

Therefore, responses to changes in fashion demands can

be made much more quickly than is possible withweaving.



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Basic Definitions and Understandings



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basic unit of knittedstructure.

consists of a head (H) and two side

limbs or legs (L).

At the base of each leg is a foot (F),which meshes through the head ofthe loop formed at the previousknitting cycle

The yarn passes from thefoot of one loop into thefoot and leg of the nextloop formed by it



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When one loop is drawn through another, loop stitch isformed.

The loop is the fundamental element of all knitted fabrics.

It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at itsbase with previously formed basic units (stitches)

The stitch is the smallest dimensionallystable unit of allknitted fabrics. It consists of a yarn loop, which is heldtogether by being intermeshed with another stitch or

other loops Stitch densityis the number of stitches per unit area of a

knitted fabric (loops / cm2)

Stitch length is the length of yarn in a knitted loop



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Aneedle loop is one whichhas been drawn through aprevious loop

The upper part of the loop producedby the needle drawing the yarn

Asinker loop is one whichconnects adjacent needleloops.

The lower part of the knitted loop is

technically referred as sinker loopconnection of two legs belonging tothe neighboring stitches lyinglaterally.



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Face Loop: During loopformation, when the new loopemerges through the old loopfrom back to the face (orfront) side

Back Loop: If the new looppasses from the face side tothe back side of old loop, it iscalled as back loop or weftpurl loop

Open Loop: loop formingyarns does not cross at the

bottom of the loop. Closed Loop: the legs of the

loop cross so that the loopclosing takes place.



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The series of loops thatintermesh in averticaldirection are known as

'Wale'. i.e. head to feetdirection.

The loops that are inter-

connectedwidthwise areknown as 'Course. i.e.

feet to feet direction.



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Technically Face



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Technically Back



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Technically upright

A knitted fabric is technically

upright when its courses runhorizontally and its wales runvertically,

with the heads of the needle loopsfacing towards the top of the fabric

and the course knitted firstsituated at the bottom of thefabric.



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Gauge is the term used todescribe the needle spacing

It can be defined as thenumber ofneedles per unit

length. Three chief systems for

representing the machinegauge:

Needles/inch

Needles/1.5 inch

Needles/2 inch.

The gauge is the major factorin determining the fabricdensity and appearance.


Documents

Knitting Introduction