Kilgore Trout

FORUM˜SPRING 2013 UNHURRIED AND UNCOMMON SINCE 1977 KILGORETROUT.COM

2013 FASHION:

SHADESOF BLUETHE NEWRULES OFBUSINESSCASUAL SKETCHESOF SPRING

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Su Misura Made to Measure is the Art of Personal EleganceOur promise is to deliver perfectly tailored apparel designed for your individual character from an unparalleled collection of Zegna fabrics. From personalized suits to entire wardrobes.

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ARE WE REALLY IN CLEVELAND?” was the surprised exclamation we heard more than once as we led our colleagues on a

whirlwind tour of the city. From the magnificent homes of South Park and Shaker Boulevard, through the lively Little Italy, past the new Farshid Moussavi-designed MOCA Cleveland and Uptown district, and to our final destination—Zack Bruell’s L’Albatros—our fellow Apparel Forum members continually had their Pantharella socks knocked off by the energy of the new Cleveland.

These retailers hail from some of the nation’s great cities: Seattle, Denver, Dallas, New Orleans, San Francisco, Greenwich and others—and they know a vibrant city when they see one. Twice a year, we all get together to coordinate group merchandise purchases both in the U.S. and in Europe, share our best practices, review fashion trends, and discuss economic impacts on our industry. We provide one another an ad hoc advisory board, and together we publish this magazine. By collaborating, we are all able to provide our clients greater service and better value. And isn’t that what it’s all about?

Collaboration has been an essential element in the comeback of our city as well. And many of you, our clients, have played important roles in the rebirth of Cleveland, whether at University Circle, one of our world-class hospital campuses, the rising Medical Mart, the Flats East Bank, the Horseshoe Casino, or the new Eaton headquarters taking shape just around the corner from our store.

The renewed energy of the city is palpable, as is the energy of spring in store at Kilgore Trout. This season, we’ll collaborate with Polo Ralph Lauren, presenting the venerable designer’s collection of premiere classics, an edition of the iconic brand specifically for stores like Kilgore Trout—timeless and authentic, with superb attention to fabrics, craftsmanship and detail.

Also new is PT01 Pantaloni Torino, the Italian line of hip, cool

EAT. DRINK. MEET. REPEAT.trousers in khakis and colors with tailor-made quality and great treatments, and the inaugural collection of Gramercy Foundry, a new collection of shirts, knits, pants and jackets that promises “forged textiles and engineered styles.” Also new is Massimo Alba, with an Italian casual-chic style “designed to embrace the wearer.” Alba’s knitwear is woven and item-dyed in traditional workshops all over Italy, and his linen/cotton jackets wear with effortless nonchalance. Also with a foundation in traditional Italian design, our first collection from Roda uses time-honored techniques to craft gentlemen’s accessories of true luxury.

For women, Andrea welcomes Es’ Givien, an eco-friendly jersey and knitwear line made entirely in Italy of natural fabrics, knitted and dyed with processes that respect the environment. Designed by a collaborative of three sisters in Verona (Gaia, Vivilla and Nives), every garment contains a printed message, hidden but within reach, a thought for the wearer alone linked to the theme of the season’s collection. Closer to home, Clover Canyon is designed and produced in Los Angeles, and reflects the joyful, eclectic spirit of California with vivid prints and streamlined silhouettes. We also launched Joseph, a clothing line with a cult following in Europe but little known here, and Dannijo, one of the hottest collections of necklaces, collars and jewelry on the planet.

If you haven’t checked out all that’s new and vibrant in our city, a good place to start is the extraordinary new Museum of Contemporary Art in the Uptown District. Right now, we’re offering our customers complimentary museum admission for two. Stop by soon and ask for your pass. And if you spend $500 you’ll also receive a $100 gift certificate to a Zack Bruell restaurant, where your socks are certain to be knocked off, too.

Happy spring! Wally Naymon, shopkeeper

A taste of the NEW Cleveland greeted our Apparel Forum colleaguesas Kilgore Trout hosted the nation’s top clothing retailers.

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28601 Chagrin Blvd.

Cleveland, OH 44122

216-831-0488

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTOR Hans Gschliesser

MANAGING EDITOR Jillian LaRochelle

PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Montemorra

DESIGNERS Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORS Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR Bob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION Peg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUP

PUBLISHER Stuart Nifoussi

PRESIDENT AND CEO Britton Jones

CHAIRMAN AND COO Mac Brighton

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Christine Sullivan

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PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

FEATURES 2 Welcome Letter 6 Upcoming Events 56 Interiors: Risk Management60 Music: Rodgers & Hammerstein Revisited

FASHION8 24 Sketches: Must-Haves for Spring32 Profile: Magnanni Footwear 36 Style: Color Cues 38 Books: A Sprig of Ivy40 6 New Rules for Business Casual 48 26 Shades of Blue

DEPARTMENTS28 Ask Forum for Him30 Ask Forum for Her 34 Man of Style: Philippe Cousteau 54 Travel: A Grape Night’s Sleep58 World Scene62 Spirits: Bespoke Booze64 End Page: Keep it Clean

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Join Ermenegildo Zegna Made-to-Measure Specialist Andrea Stringhini for the ultimate “Su Misura” experience. Discover the new spring/summer 2013 seasonal fabrics, and preview expanded in-stock collections from Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna. Call or email your sales consultant for your personal appointment, or just stop in.

OUR RESTAURANTDEAL IS BACK

even

ts

SAMUELSOHN MTM

FRIDAY AND SATURDAY, MARCH AND

FRIDAY AND SATURDAY, APRIL AND 6

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MTM

Enjoy 10% off your Samuelsohn Made-to-Measure order at this event. Dorian Anderson will be in store with the latest fabrics and fits from Samuelsohn. Since 1923 when master tailor Lesser Samuelsohn emigrated from New York to Canada to develop his fine clothing line, Samuelsohn has been carefully hand-tailoring some of the finest suits made in North America.

VISIT KILGORETROUT.COM FOR ADDITIONAL EVENTS

Spend $500 or more in one Kilgore Trout visit and we’ll reward you with a $100 gift certificate to any Zack Bruell restaurant. It’s our most popular offer, so take advantage soon.Through April 6, 2013 or while supplies last. Not valid with any other offer or discount. One per customer, please.

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ART DIRECTION | CHRISTOPHER HIXSON

MODELS | MEAGHAN CARRERAS & TED SIKORA PHOTOGRAPHY | ANDREW MCALLISTER

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< FUZZI abstract printed sheath dress

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D. EXTERIOR lace dress in midnight with chartreuse jersey lining< ETRO linen jacket, cotton shirt, silk pocket square, linen pant and embossed crocodile belt

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FUZZI cutaway cardigan, DL1961 jean > ALLEGRI super-light nylon water-repellent jacket in brick red, MASON’S soft cotton shirt, GARDEUR 5-pocket jean

The season’s denims are all about color. An assortment from GARDEUR shown.

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ISAIA linen and wool jacket, wool trouser, cotton shirt, tie and pocket square, LEYVA belt> ES’ GIVIEN laser-cut micro-suede shift and jacket, LINEA PELLE leather clutch

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FUZZI printed gauze skirt and asymmetrical tank< MASSIMO ALBA linen/cotton trouser, striped cotton Cricket polo, linen/cotton Aston jacket, G. INGLESE gingham pocket square

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GIMO’S Campionario navy goat suede jacket, RAG & BONE rough cotton 5-pocket jean, MASON’S linen shirt> HILTL cotton trouser in red, MASON’S linen shirt with assorted buttons

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SAND linen/cotton sportcoat and check shirt, GARDEUR jean, LEYVA belt> SAMUELSOHN softly constructed jacket in wool and linen, MASSIMO ALBA cotton/linen stripe shirt, MASON’S Torino trouser with ribbon waist

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VINCE washed linen shirt, cotton tee, linen drawstring short< 360 CASHMERE top, HUDSON jean

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PAUL SMITH cotton Abbey sportcoat, VINCE short-sleeve henley, HILTL 5-pocket washed denim jean with mobile safe zipper pocket, TORINO tumbled glove cowhide belt with nickel buckle

> JOSEPH python top and gabardine stretch leggings

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RAG & BONE cotton and lambskin jacket, HUDSON boyfriend jean

RAG & BONE silk blouse, quilted black lamb leather Highclare vest

RAG & BONE silk Cherie dress

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JOSEPH linen and gauze top, and turquoise legging< HERNO boucle jacket, DL1961 Emma legging in Berkeley wash

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BOGLIOLI textured linen/cotton suit, MASON’S soft cotton print shirt, SIMMONOT GODARD reversible belt in putty/white with nickel buckle

> JOSEPH linen Greta dress, DANNIJO necklace

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Q: I read a study thatsaid the first thing

women notice on men istheir shoes. So what shoesshould I be wearing thisspring?Shoes run the gamut frombright athletic styles to coolwingtips to suede lace-ups todress/casual hybrids that com-bine luxury leathers with high-tech soles. Color is key, if noton the shoe itself then on thesoles or laces. The possibilitiesare limitless: finally, a funfootwear season!

Q: Watching the newJames Bond movie, I

realized that all my suitsare out of date. What’s upwith this skinny look? CanI wear it if I’m not skinny? In fact, the men’s clothingindustry has been pushing aslimmer model for severalyears now, but it took a hitmovie and Daniel Craig tofinally get the message across!Yes, today’s suits are narrowerin the shoulder, chest and leg.The coat sleeves and flat-frontpants are slightly shorter and

the overall effect is much moreyouthful. Our suggestion: tryone or two suits in this updat-ed model (we have options atmany prices) before youreplenish your wardrobe. Youmight also want a few slimmer-cut shirts and narrower ties(about three inches; the onesin your closet are likely threeand three-quarters) to comple-ment the trimmer-fit suits.

Q:I’m seeing lots ofcolor in men’s

fashion magazines: is thisjust for the runway or arereal guys wearing it?Real guys are wearing it! Colorhas always been a factor inmen’s sweaters, shirts andneckwear; only recently has itmoved to bottoms. We suggestpairing bright color five-pock-et pants with more neutral tops(knits, wovens, sportcoats). It’sa great look that’s surprisinglyeasy to pull off, once you takethat first step.

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Q:After years of strugglingwith contact lenses, I’m

seeing guys wear some very coolglasses. Should I switch over?

Absolutely! Whether or not you needglasses, eyewear is a hot accessory formen this season. We like bigger, bold-er frames in black or tortoise for apseudo-intellectual look (roundshapes are hot!), vintage styles with amodern twist, as well as touches ofcolor on the temple. Check out ourgreat selection of optical-quality read-ing glasses that can readily accommo-date almost any prescription.

SPRING 2013FASHION TIPS

FOR HIM

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Q: Statement necklaces were allover the runways this season.

How can I wear them? Adding a statement necklace to your outfit isthe easiest way to instantly liven up yourbasics. Come in to discover the gorgeous newstyles from Dannijo, a favorite among celebri-ties and one of the hottest accessory brandsaround! Co-founders Danielle and JodieSnyder advise that when you’re wearing suchan eye-catching piece, “remember to keep itsimple everywhere else and make your neck-lace the focal point.” They also reveal that for

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ASKFORUMone piece against an otherwise black andwhite outfit in strong graphic shapes—another huge trend this season.

A black and white wardrobe is perfect forunpredictable weather, since you can layerpieces easily and veer towards one shadedepending on the rain or sun. Plus, owninga variety of black and white items meansyou don’t have to pack as much when youtravel; just mix and match, livening up eachoutfit with accessories.

Color blocking continues its reign on therunways, though stripes are bolder than inseasons past. Pay extra attention to wherethe stripes hit on your body and make sureyour garments are tailored for a perfect fit.You can even try color blocking on youraccessories: just as on-trend but much easi-er to pull off. In bright colors or soft neu-trals, a striped bag or shoe is a perfect wayto provide some contrast in your wardrobe.

Q: There are many gorgeouslightweight scarves out there,

but how can I wear them in the warmermonths? You can wear a scarf pretty much all year,especially a sheer style in airy cashmere ora cotton/cashmere blend. When it does getwarmer, untie it and drape it over yourshoulders as an easy wrap.

We’re also starting to see silk scarves comeback as a fashion item. Look for them in thesame geometric, striped or color blocked pat-terns popular in RTW styles. To get evenmore use out of your scarf collection, tie oneup and wear it as a headband or wrap itaround your waist like a belt.

The most important style advice of all:wear what makes you feel good!

this season, the hottest elements to look forare “anything oxidized, touches of turquoise,cornelian and lots of white!”

Q: Color always plays an importantrole in my spring/summer

wardrobe. Are there any particular colortrends I should look for this season? Beautiful blues! From azure to turquoise,there’s a shade out there that looks good oneveryone! If you’re not comfortable with theboldness of blue, tone it down by popping

SPRING 2013FASHION TIPS

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ebastián Blanco had been working in shoe factories sincehe was 12. In 1954, at the age of 44, he decided to start hisown business. With only five employees, he began makingshoes out of a small workshop in his own home inAlmansa, a factory town in southeastern Spain specializingin leather goods production. Two years later he partneredwith shoe salesman Antonio Garcia to form Blangar.

When Blanco’s only son Pascual turned 14, he beganlearning shoe design and pattern making from his father.At just 16, Pascual became the lead designer, introducingmore elegant styles and rebranding the company asMagnanni (after going to a movie with his future wifeRocio, where he was impressed by Italian actress AnnaMagnani).

In 1968, Pascual married Rocio, and the couple later hadfive sons (Sebastián, Miguel, Pascual, Julio and Luis) and adaughter (Rocio). Today the entire third generation ofBlancos occupy key positions at Magnanni. Pascual, thethird son of Pascual and Rocio, is in charge of distributionin the U.S. and Asia, and reveals that although his father istechnically retired, “the company is like another son tohim. In my opinion, my father is the best shoemaker inSpain, and we still learn from him every day.”

When asked about the difficulty of working alongsidefive siblings, Pascual laughs. “When we discuss business,it’s usually informal… and loud! Sometimes we get on eachother’s nerves, but then we go out afterwards and have abeer. We’re a very close family.”

Still based in Almansa, Magnanni continues to constructall its footwear by hand using only the highest qualityEuropean leathers.

Magnanni isknown for its useof the complicat-ed, labor-intensiveBologna construc-tion. But the endresult—a footwrapped 360degrees withleather, as a handin a glove—isworth it, givingeach shoe excep-tional flexibility and comfort. “We make the shoe so thelining wraps around your entire foot,” explains Pascual.“Some brands use a hard insole, but we have soft moldedleather. It conforms to your foot faster so there’s never along breaking-in period.”

The last, a metal or plastic piece shaped like the humanfoot over which a shoe is formed, is another vital part of anyshoe design. Magnanni’s are all carefully constructed inhouse to ensure quality and consistency. “Even if they don’trealize it, the last is the first thing people feel when they trya shoe on,” Pascual says. “We’ve found a successful fit, butwe’re always testing and developing it to make it better.”

The company also hand-paints all of its leathers withexclusive dyes, natural creams and polishing rags, impart-ing each pair with a one-of-a-kind finish and a deep, richcoloration. The perfect final touch on the shoes you’ll wearfor a lifetime.

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MAGNANNI SHOES OFFER THE FINEST IN FIT—AND FLAIR.BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GLOVES FOR YOUR FEET

• Single and double monkstraps • Mixed-media: leathers, suedes and textiles • Drop tassels

Footwear Trends for 2013

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A WORLD OF DIFFERENCEPHILIPPE COUSTEAU MAKES ENVIRONMENTAL CONSERVATION LOOKGOOD. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

hen Philippe Cousteau was a boy, he wanted tobe a fireman. Then, on his 16th birthday, hismother and sisters gave him a present: aresearch trip to Papua New Guinea. Since thenhe’s been traveling the world, from enduring the

cold of Antarctica to providing humanitarian aid in war-tornSarajevo.

A self-described “explorer, social entrepreneur and envi-ronmental advocate,” Philippe Cousteau is the 32-year-oldson of Jan and Philippe Cousteau Sr. He is also, of course,the grandson of legendary Captain Jacques-Yves Cousteau.“My grandfather taught me to always innovate... alwaysquestion,” he says. “Each of us has the responsibility tomake the world a better place.”

Cousteau takes this responsibility very seriously. For him,exploring the connections between humans and the environ-ment is as important as exploring nature itself. He is co-founder of Azure Worldwide, a strategic environmental design,development and marketing company. Along with green sitedesign and planning, eco-tourism and new media, they’re usinginteractive gaming “to help people understand how theiractions impact the environment.” Cousteau is also a specialcorrespondent for CNN International, hosting the Going Greenseries and reporting on environmental and humanitarianissues. He serves on the boards of directors of The OceanConservancy, the Marine Conservation Biology Institute, theNational Environmental Education Foundation and theNational Council of the World Wildlife Fund. He has also testi-fied to Congress on ocean management and off-shore drilling.

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In addition, Cousteau is president of EarthEchoInternational, a non-profit organization he foundedwith his sister and mother, whose mission is toencourage youth to take action that restores andprotects our water planet. “My grandfather was awonderful storyteller and communicator,” Cousteaureveals. “He believed you could change societythrough kids.” Following this philosophy, EarthEchocombines education, balanced advocacy and a com-mitment to action, providing programs and tools forstudents to undertake local projects to help theenvironment. It also includes training in citizenjournalism, workshops that teach young people howto write and tell stories about the environment andthe world they live in. “If they can learn [how towrite], their words have meaning. They have power,”he emphasizes. Cousteau is the co-author, withCathryn Berger Kaye M.A., of Going Blue: A TeenGuide to Saving the Oceans, Lakes, Rivers, &Wetlands (Free Spirit Publishing, 2010) and Make ASplash!: A Kid’s Guide to Protecting Our Oceans,Lakes, Rivers, & Wetlands. “We’ve seen firsthand thepassion young people have for the environment.EarthEcho’s focus is to empower youth to make adifference…. Adults often tell me they now recyclebecause their kids insist on it.”

xtending his social and environmentalwork to the financial realm, Cousteau haspartnered with AdvisorShares Investmentsto launch the Global Echo ExchangeTraded Fund on the New York StockExchange (NYSE: GIVE), as well as to formthe GlobalECHO Foundation, a 501 (c)(3)

for which he serves as co-founder and chairman.“The GlobalECHO Foundation is dedicated to sup-porting projects and organizations that have thepower to transform communities and inspire posi-tive change well beyond their geographic bound-aries,” he explains.

Despite the seriousness of his business, Cousteau

has a charming sense of humor. His personal styleis both classic and delightfully unique. In a dressshirt (no tie), a vest and jeans (with a jacket drapedover his suitcase), he also wears two cords aroundhis neck—one featuring a carved cow horn from

Zanzibar, the other a silver shark tooth—as well asnumerous bracelets, including one made of woodenbeads from South Korea, another of Guatemalanembroidery, and a silver one from his fiancée.

Due to his busy schedule, which on any given daymight include taping a television segment during ajungle trek, then attending a fundraiser or making apersonal appearance, Cousteau has had to learnwhich clothes work for him in various settings. ForTV appearances in the wild, he chooses blue cottonshirts and khaki pants; he even has the pants tai-lored for a perfect fit.

For casual wear he likes jeans (which he lets hisfiancée pick out), and on dressier occasions, heprefers three-piece suits. (Recently Cousteau “isinto vests,” in part because they offer pockets for hislatest passion: pocket watches.)

The sense of adventure that has taken Cousteauall over the globe for his work is also reflected in hisprivate life. He even has a list of things he thinks he(and every man of style) should be able to do: fixthings around the house, ride a motorcycle, drive astick shift, tie a bow tie, choose the best wines andspirits, prepare good meals, and barbeque. Andwhat does a man who travels 300 days a year do forvacation? Cousteau smiles. “When work is swim-ming with great white sharks, a day off is sleeping in.”

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“ADULTS OFTEN TELL ME THEY NOW RECYCLE BECAUSETHEIR KIDS INSIST ON IT.”

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To get out of a lackluster neutral zone, a few tips:Determine your best colors and wear them near your

face. You’ll have a healthy glow. Your eyes will be brighter,your teeth whiter, you’ll look more alert. Knowing yourpersonal color palette will prevent costly mistakes (likebuying clothes that just end up hanging in your closet). Aprofessional color analysis is the best option, but you canalso do it yourself. Under natural lighting, hold a fabric upto your face, alternating between cool, blue-based tones(blue-reds, true blues, black, white) with warm, yellow-based shades (yellows, oranges, beiges). It should be obvi-ous: either cool or warm colors will be more flattering.(FYI, the vast majority of American men look best in coolshades; hence white or light blue dress shirts rather thanbeige, and gray or navy suits rather than brown.)

Accessorize! If some of your favorite clothes are in the

‘wrong’ color, add a scarf or sweater in the right shade.Eyeglasses, hotter than ever, are a great way to bring ‘cor-rect’ color to your face. Men should consider adding colorwith great ties, scarves, socks, belts, shoes (andshoelaces!), or other mood-elevating accessories.

This season’s essential buy: five-pocket pants orjeans in bold color. The good news: just pick a shade youlove! It’s okay to wear a wrong color away from your face;just make sure the top is in your right color! But remember:color blocking that cuts the body in half looks best on tall,thin model types, which most of us are not.

While skin tone is the most important factor in find-ing your best colors, make-up and hair color matter.Fortunately for the men out there: most guys look greatwith gray hair, as long as it’s the right shade of gray. See aprofessional colorist and go from drab to dynamic.

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SPRING 2013 FASHION SIZZLESWITH BOLD HUES. HERE’S HOW TOWEAR THEM. BY LENORE RICH

COLOR CUES

Ronny Dutra, dance instructor at Dance With Me studios in Stamford,Connecticut, confirms that color evokes mood. “People need visual cues toreinforce feelings and create a state of mind. For example, the ArgentineTango, a passionate dance, evokes feelings of fury, mystery and attitude. I weara red tie and my dance partner wears red lipstick and strong eye makeup,enhancing the intense facial expression inherent in this dance. Although thequintessential black or red tango dress may seem cliché, it’s totally relevant.Latin dances—caliente and spicy—scream for reds, yellows, oranges andsparkle. But a graceful elegant waltz begs for soft blues and pastels to set thescene—picture a fairy tale Princess gliding across the dance floor...”

The Color-Mood Connection

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T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . .A N D J E A N S

CAN A MANʼSTROUSER OR JEAN,

A BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING,BE TRANSFORMED

INTO A “MUST HAVE?”̶KILGORE TROUT

THINKS SO


After touring a recent exhibit at The Museumat FIT called Ivy Style, which celebrated the fashion thatevolved from the campuses of the Ivy League schools—Brown,Columbia, Cornell, Dartmouth, Harvard, Princeton, U-Pennand Yale—in the early part of the last century, I picked up theaccompanying book (also called Ivy Style). In its preface, cura-tor Patricia Mears states that despite the recent recession,apparel brands have been under pressure to produce morecollections, more garments per collection and to getinto more product categories. The trend doesn’t nec-essarily mean the items are better... just that there’smore of them. As a result of this overproduction,Mears writes, “I wanted objects that were wellmade, with real purpose.” She found thatdesigners and other fashion cognoscentiwere all returning to the Ivy heritagefor “a look that transcends andendures….”

In fact, she goes on to differentiate“preppy” from “Ivy” and to showthat much of what we take forgranted as conservative, classicdressing was, at the time, anti-establishment and revolutionary.

Mears shows that “no otheruniversity defined Ivy Style asfervently and as beautifully asPrinceton in the 1920s and1930s.” Due in part to itssomewhat isolated location,sportswear—clothes literallyworn to play sports—became“around-the-clock attire.” Clothes

that we might describe as classic or even stuffy, like tweedsuits or white bucks, actually evolved from golf and tennisattire of the time. “Princetonians were also credited withintroducing the sport jacket,” appropriating Norfolk huntingjackets by updating the construction and wearing them withunmatched trousers.

The relaxed style was then broadcast to the world by themost closely watched celebrity of the day, Prince Edward ofYork (the Duke of Windsor). Eschewing the formality of courtdress that his great-grandmother, Queen Victoria, would havedemanded, the Prince became fascinated with this sportivestyle and elevated it to a whole new level (the subject of anessay in the book by Dr. Peter McNeil, a professor of design

history at the University of Technology, Sydney).Particularly after abdicating the throne of

England, he popularized wearing relaxed, infor-mal clothes in public settings, including short-sleeved knits, bright colors and tartans...clothing we see today even in office settings.

The Ivy Style exhibit bravely showed howmodern brands have been influenced by themovement, from Michael Bastian’s trim,preppy looks to Thom Browne’s cutting-edge parodies and, of course, RalphLauren’s entire oeuvre. But perhaps to getthe best look at the future of men’s fashion,we should return to the college campus.Maybe one day we’ll all be wearing compres-

sion-fit T-shirts and drawstring sweatpants towork. On the other hand, if we look to royals

like Prince Harry for inspiration, we may beheaded to the office completely nude. C

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The hottest trend in menswear is also one of its oldest. By John Jones

A SPRIG OF IVY

Ivy Style:RadicalConformistsby PatriciaMears ispublished byYale UniversityPress and TheFashionInstitute ofTechnology.

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RELAX. WE MAKE LOOKING GREAT EASY.

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You heard it here first: CasualFridays are becoming less casual,even on Fridays, even in the summer!The new Business Casual is just as relaxed butnowhere near as sloppy. Clothes that fit. Colors that

flatter. Luxury fabrics that beg to be touched.(Well, maybe not in the office…) Score

points with the boss, with the women, withyour mother… Look better, feel better,perform better. Here, in the pages tofollow, the new rules for Business Casual.

PERFORMANCEENHANCING

NEWRULES FORBUSINESSCASUAL

Take note.

PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPHEN CIUCCOLISTYLING: JOSEPH UNGOCOGROOMING: VASSILIS KOKKINIDIS FOR FORD ARTISTS

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Rule1IMPORTANT: IT’S OKAY TOLOOK LIKE THE BOSS! You’ll never be deniedan opportunitybecause you look tooprofessional. On theother hand, clothes thatwork for the gym orbackyard could verywell hold you back. Asthe saying goes: Dressfor the job you want,not the one you’ve got…



Rule2A SPORTCOAT IS ALWAYSAPPROPRIATE! Why not try a modernunconstructed version,(unlined, minus the padding)worn with a lightweight knittop or shirt and tie? (Bowsare back, especially foryoung guys!) Note too thefive-pocket pants in non-denim fabrics. Fit is key!


BEST FOOT FORWARD. Women know, and guys are learning: it’sall about the shoes! For spring 2013, welove lace-ups in soft leather or suede;have fun with color!

Rule3


Rule4FOCUS ON ACCESSORIES.Cool socks: check! Perfectwatch? Essential. Bracelet?Adds personality. A greatbag or backpack? Ofcourse! And don’t overlookyour belt and wallet. Makesure they convey theimpression you want tomake.


Rule5INVEST IN A GREATSPRING JACKET! Since you don’tneed a wholewardrobe ofthem, picksomething reallyspecial. (Suede inthe spring is veryItalian!)


Rule6JEANS IN THE OFFICE: Unless you’re meeting withformal clients, jeans areokay. Just make sureyou’re wearing perfectlyfitted premium denim inan even-tone dark wash.Paired with a sportcoat, acardigan, or even a shirtand tie, dressed-up denimis fine with us. (Just ditchthe big baggy stuff andwear great shoes!)

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BLUE SHADES of

This spring, the world’s most universally beloved color — and the color that somehow magically looks good on everyone — is everywhere! In a stunning spectrum of solids, prints, textures and patterns, when it comes to blue, the sky and the sea are the limit. So get your blue on!

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEKSTYLING: WENDY MCNETTHAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY26



AqA uamarineAzAzurureBabybBluebeerryCaC ribbeanCerur leanCobaltCoC rnfl owerDenimHeHeatherIndiigoMiidnightNavyyOceanPaP cifi cPeacockPeriwinklePowderRobin’s EggRoR yalSapphireSkySteelTeal TurquoiseViolet


AquamarineAzureBabyBlueberryCaribbeanCeruleanCobaltCornfl owerDenimHeatherIndigoMidnightNavyOceanPacifi cPeacockPeriwinklePowderRobin’s EggRoyalSapphireSkySteelTeal TurquoiseViolet



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Sleeping where you drink doesn’t necessarily mean you’re a well-pickled grifter, but the warm buzz from a few glasses of pinot noirundoubtedly nudges most of us into a deep rest. When spendinga snug few nights within a winery, exclusivity, top-notch ameni-ties and epic landscapes combine to make a sensational bottletaste that much better.

We got our teeth red to bring you three of our favorite wineryrefuges, encouraging you to toss the keys on the mahogany table,stay the night, and wake up to a crisp sparkling white…for breakfast!

CASTELLO DEL TREBBIO IN PONTASSIEVE, ITALY

Anyone can drink good wine in Italy, but not everyone can saythey’ve clinked glasses and spent the night in a medieval castle.

Located atop the San Brigida hills roughly a half-hour fromFlorence, the castle-turned-mansion villa is surrounded by lushgrape vines, olive groves and saffron crocuses.

Trebbio offers a subtle modernity while respecting history andtradition. (Castles are made of stone and get cold, so central heat-ing and electricity are fêted where they can be found!) The castletower that once protected the fortress still stands, but now servesas a welcoming entry. The estate warden, although retired, stillgreets guests in traditional clothing, and the dungeons with theironce murderous hooks remain to hold Chianti hostage inTrebbio’s wine cellar. The cave-like restaurant is a relativelyrecent addition, whose dishes enhance the celebratedRiesling/pinot grigio blend and the aforementioned Chianti.

Built by the Pazzi family, Renaissance-era Florentine bankers, thecastle first changed hands in the 14th-century after a bloody clashwith the Medici clan. But today, romance is the main focus onTrebbio’s 800 acres. The property hosts many a bride and groomfrom around the world, as well as those seeking a fairy tale settingfor any occasion.

The villa is separated into three apartments, each rustic andcozy with its own patio, private garden and swimming pool. (Thosewho plan to cook or bring a chef should request the one previouslyoccupied by the owners; it has the most modern appliances.)

Guests can arrange activities like Italian language courses,painting or cooking classes and horseback riding. Hiking and bik-ing trails lined with chestnut trees and olive groves lead from thevilla to the lake and the local village.

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LUXE WINERIES THAT ACCOMMODATE BEYONDTHE TASTING ROOM. BY SHIRA LEVINE

A GRAPENIGHT’S SLEEP

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. JORDAN WINERY IN HEALDSBURG, CALIFORNIA The picturesqueroads that snakethrough NorthernCalifornia’s winecountry don’t justlead to Napa andSonoma. About anhour northwest isHealdsburg, aninsider’s enclave.

Filled with fab foodie spots, the town is rich with wineriesthat reap their fruits from the crossings of the Russian River,Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys.

Within that dynamic topography lies the 1,500-acre, fami-ly-owned Jordan Winery. Tastings are open to anyone witha palate, but a night’s stay within the 18th century-esquechâteau (actually built 37 years ago for a reported $15 mil-lion) is only for oenophiles in Jordan’s loyalty program.Earn reward points through the purchase of two award-win-ning wines, a cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay that haveimpressed chefs and sommeliers since 1976.

Built by the architects responsible for George Lucas’Skywalker Ranch, the château includes seven unique rooms,each with high wood beamed ceilings, red tiled floors andauthentic Louis XIII antiques. Below the suites is the regaldining room and Chef Todd Knoll’s kitchen, where he andhis hospitality director wife Nitsa marry epicurean innova-tion with tradition using the freshest ingredients from theplentiful garden outside. Fava greens, cremini mushroomsand haricots verts are just a few of the treats served onBaccarat crystal and Madeira linens to overnight guests likeBono, Pierce Brosnan and Michael Mina.

After dinner, the lucky are invited to enjoy a glass (ortwo) in CEO John Jordan’s private 1920s-style hangar.Besides a bar, pool table and vintage shuffleboard, hekeeps his bright yellow piper cub plane and a museumquality collection of World War I and II-era memorabiliaon display to dazzle those who wander in

MATETIC WINERY IN CASABLANCA VALLEY, CHILEThe Casablanca Valley, a midway point between Valparaiso and Santiago, is a wine region just 11miles from the water, bathed in cool breezes and morning fogs from the Pacific. The result: a ‘pre-mium cool valley’ where chardonnay and sauvignon blanc vines can thrive.

Just southwest of Casablanca is the futuristic-looking Matetic Winery, discreetly tucked into theslope of a hillside within the San Antonio Valley. Pioneering 21st-century enotourism, the avant-garde property features a dramatic oval barrel cellar and two swish tasting rooms replete with awaterfall.

Try the organic pinot noir, syrah, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay within the gleaming wood andglass winery, then take a short drive to the elegant yet rustic La Casona. The traditional colonial-style estancia and hacienda is also a working family ranch and vineyard that sits on 27,000 acreshugging the Rosario Valley.

The adobe guesthouses are chic and stylish thanks to a 2004 renovation. Seven rooms are each named after a wine and enhanced with a privateterrace. They boast four-poster beds and rich damask curtains that flank windows with views of palm trees and verdant wild gardens (though theviews from the swimming pool are some of the most staggering).

Dining options include the gourmet restaurant Equilibrio or a private chef who prepares indulgent breakfasts and dinners. Organic and sustain-able is the agenda, so guests can expect mostly handcrafted ingredients, from homemade breads and sheep’s milk cheeses to honeys and jamsmade from grape, fig, papaya and pomegranate trees growing on the land. (There’s even a family-run cheese operation to tour on the property!)

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hen Mies van der Rohe uttered hisfamous words “God is in the details” toan admirer of his design work, theGerman-American architect might just aseasily have been speaking about the workof Kelly Wearstler, the entrepreneurial

designer whose thought-provoking and detail-drivendesigns for boutique hotels and opulent homes haveredefined the concept of modern glamour.

Whether designing the decadent black, white anddaffodil yellow interiors of Palm Desert’s ViceroyHotel (one of the many Viceroys she’s designed fromCalifornia to the Caribbean), putting the finishing

touches on her recently launched women’s fashionlabel, or drafting pieces for her new line of furnitureand wall coverings debuting this spring, Wearstler—aformer Playboy centerfold turned style-bending interi-or designer—is a self-described risk-taker who findsgenius in the most off-beat places. “I can find inspira-tion in vintage books and fashion, or spend hours in abutton store and see one that inspires a pillow,” saysthe Australian-born designer, who shares her LosAngeles home with her husband, real estate developerBrad Korzen, and their two young sons, Oliver andElliott. “The smallest things in everyday life—colors,prints, patterns—all fascinate me,” she says.

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Kelly Wearstler lays it all on the line to make a grandstatement on style. By William Kissel

RISK MANAGEMENT

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Those everyday musings have been turned intomagical pieces for the home, office or wardrobe:everything from bedding and draperies to jackets andday dresses. Wearstler and her signature studio,KWID, have quickly become one of the world’s mostsought-after design firms, primarily because her worktranscends style and place without appearing toostudied or overly trendy. To that end, Wearstler is notafraid to combine elements of Hollywood Regency,Rococo, Streamlined Modern and Chinoiserie in thesame room, nor is she averse to mixing textures andmaterials such as velvet, gold leaf, tortoise shell, buf-falo horn, stainless steel and glass, among others,resulting in her own kind of decorative anarchy.

“All of my interiors are fun, yet still sophisticatedand elegant; they are spirited and soulful and full ofelements that are raw and refined,” says Wearstler,whose stamp is on countless boutique hotels and resi-dential estates as well as Bergdorf Goodman’s signa-ture restaurant, BG, in New York City. Currently theeffervescent designer is at work on a new luxury hos-pitality group’s first hotel property in San Francisco,while also putting the finishing touches on her firstcollection for The Rug Company and her dinnerwareline for Pickard Fine China. “To me there is no placefor rigidity in design,” reveals Wearstler, who is fondof what she calls ‘unexpected style.’ “Unexpected styleis mixing different periods together, or creating ten-sion in a room with different pieces of furniture andcolor. Mixing 10 different woods and four differentfabrics creates something truly unexpected. But if youknow what you’re doing, it can look very seamless andpleasing to the eye,” she maintains.

he daughter of an engineer and a wannabeinterior designer, Wearstler grew up sur-rounded by beautiful and unusual objects,textures and colors. “My home was alwaysin a state of flux; I’d come home fromschool and the living room would be anentirely different color,” she says, referring

to this constant evolution of style as a rhapsody, coin-cidentally also the name of her new book for Rizzoli.“Rhapsody is about a bunch of things, different peri-ods, scales and textures, coming together to create abeautiful space,” she explains. “I’ve always wanted toinspire people to take risks and to create environ-ments that feel spirited.”

Wearstler’s signature is always apparent in herworks—if you know where to look. “I would say mysignature is sculpture. But they are usually very mod-ern, not fussy,” she says. “I like animals and figuresand busts. Those are my favorite accessories becausethey bring a human element to a space. Furniturebrings a human element as well, but for me, I just loveanimals: they add surprise. So in the Viceroy Hotel inPalm Springs, for instance, I put greyhounds in all thedoors to make it a bit more interesting.”

Surprises notwithstanding, great thought and pur-pose is behind every choice.

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TALENT SHOWST

he brilliant singer/songwriter AnnHampton Callaway has composedover 250 songs for television,

Broadway and Off-Broadway. Her musicand lyrics have been performed andrecorded by talents as diverse as LizaMinnelli, Patti LuPone, Michael Feinstein,Carole King and the legendary BarbraStreisand, who asked Callaway to writelyrics to a Rolf Lovland melody entitledI’ve Dreamed of You. (She liked the fin-ished product so much she sang it toJames Brolin at their wedding.) Last year,the Boston Pops commissioned Callawayto create and perform a show based onmusic performed by Streisand. On open-ing night, at Boston’s famed SymphonyHall, the audience gave her nine standingovations. Starting this spring and continu-ing into the autumn, Callaway is takingthe Barbra Streisand Songbook on theroad, performing with symphony orches-tras across the country in cities fromWashington to Pennsylvania.

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Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

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his spring and summer, you could plant a few geraniums… or create your own private paradise. A simple patch at a small housein London, a garden featuring an Italian cascade in California, extravagant parks on great estates in France and Belgium:French landscape artist and garden designer Francois Goffinet develops the concepts and personally oversees the realization

of his projects all over the world. Gardening aficionados who prefer to do it themselves can still have a touch of the master withpieces from Monsieur Goffinet’s recently introduced classical garden furniture collection, which includes a wood chair, armchair,footstool, stone table, tent and planters. He also offers advice: “Take care of the site and the genius loci.”

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RIVER WORLDR

osa River Cruises sail along historically fascinating waterways.There’s the Blue Danube cruise that meanders up this romantic riverto Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia and Croatia. The cruise along the Rhine

docks at castles, cities (including Mozart’s birthplace) and the mysteriousBlack Forest (both ships offer travelers private tours of museums andgreat châteaux). On board, local, often rare wines are served. There’s a spawith one-way glass walls (so guests can view the passing scene while hav-ing a treatment), gym, lounge with a dance floor, sun deck, swimmingpool, putting green, whirlpool and shuffleboard court. The restaurant fea-tures regional dishes; if you’re too entranced by the view to go inside toeat, the chef will arrange to have your dinner served on deck.

VINO DA CANTAREA

few miles from Florence near the small village of Lajatico is the Bocelli vineyard,which has belonged to the family of world-famous tenor Andrea Bocelli for gen-erations. (Andrea’s sister-in-law Cinzia and brother Alberto manage the azienda

and greet guests; Mama Bocelli can often be found hand-tying vines in the fields.)Next time you’re touring the Tuscany region of Italy, you might spend a charmingafternoon visiting with the Bocellis and tasting their wines, then stop for dinner atRistorante La Vallata just a short distance away. This restored farmhouse has severalBocelli wines in the cellar, or you can choose a favorite at the vineyard and bring itwith you. Settle on the terrace surrounded by cypress and olive trees dating back tothe 1700s and dine on entrées the chef creates to pair with the Bocelli wines.

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Imagine taking the long andwinding road to a recording studio inLondon. Not just any studio, but AbbeyRoad Studio, where John, Paul, Georgeand Ringo recorded most of their musicfrom 1962 to 1970.

Ted Chapin didn’t have to imagine it.He lived it and confides that “it was prettycool.” But instead of hearing the leg-endary Beatles, he listened with pride andadmiration as the talented British conduc-tor John Wilson coaxed his handpickedorchestra—comprised of many of the U.K.and Europe’s finest first-string players—tobring to life the film orchestrations ofRodgers & Hammerstein.

Wilson has produced countless orches-trations for film, radio and TV, and hislifelong love of musicals has led him torestore the scores of numerous classicfilms including High Society and Singin’in the Rain.

“I listened to a CD many years ago ofmovie music by John Wilson. I’d neverheard of him before, but immediatelybecame a fan,” says Chapin, president andCEO of the New York-based Rodgers &Hammerstein: An Imagem Company. “Itled me on a quest to find this person whoconducted with such guts and passion. Iwanted him to take a look at the reper-toire that I represented.”

Chapin and Wilson would eventuallymeet at the BBC Proms, share their zealfor all things R&H, and agree to collabo-

rate on a project. The culmination of thatmutual admiration is EMI Classics’Rodgers & Hammerstein At The Movies,the first re-recording of many of R&H’smost beloved songs since the originalmovie soundstage sessions.

“There is nothing in existence with thistype of integrity,” boasts Chapin. “Johnhas shaken up R&H’s music and said,‘Listen to this: it’s pretty extraordinary.Don’t take it for granted.’”

Since debuting to critical acclaim in theU.K. last fall—ahead of Coldplay, theBeach Boys and Katy Perry—the record-ing has enjoyed comparable notoriety in

the United States following its February2013 release. How could it not with aselection of 15 classics from Oklahoma,Carousel, South Pacific, The King and Iand The Sound of Music in their stunningoriginal film orchestrations?

Almost seven decades after Rodgers &Hammerstein first collaborated onOklahoma, the universality and signifi-

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RODGERS &HAMMERSTEINREVISITED

THE ANATOMY OF A CLASSIC,SEVEN DECADES LATER!

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MUSICALMUSINGS ONMEN’S STYLE

Ted Chapin: “God lovethe blue blazer is all Ican say! Women alwaystravel with lots ofclothes on hangers, butif I’m gone for a three-day trip, I can do it allwith a blue blazer. Brioniis the suit that looks beston me, so I guess I nowhave ‘a brand.’ And I liketo have fun with neck-ties, an absurd categoryof clothing when youthink about it....”

David Pittsinger: “I feelvery close to Emile deBecque’s style: clothingthat’s refined, butexpressive. I love life-time classics—like Zegnaand Armani—that makeyou feel impeccablydressed and pressed. ButI also admire the stylingof Robert Graham,whose color palettes,hand-stitching and tat-too-inspired designs aredramatic yet elegant.”

“The recording opened to critical acclaim in the U.K.last fall, ahead of Coldplay, the Beach Boys, Katy Perry…”

John Wilsonconducts hisorchestra in thelegendary AbbeyRoad Studio.

cance of their music and message has neverbeen stronger—both in the U.S. and abroad.John Wilson saw the reaction firsthand whenhe performed the duo’s iconic music at theBBC Proms and received a huge publicresponse that grew with each subsequent per-formance. He was gratified by the strong reac-tion to a legendary team thathe believes“gave us acompletelynew sort ofmusicalwhere thesongs wereseamlesslyintegratedinto the plotand pushed theplot forward. Inaddition to this,you got terrifictunes and beau-tifully craftedlyrics.”

“If you’re a general fan of Rodgers &Hammerstein, you will hear in these perform-ances such a degree of energy, clarity and pas-sion, it’s like hearing them for the first time,”explains Chapin. “Everyone knows the notesthat make up these songs, but when you hearthem played by John Wilson, you sit up and say ‘Wow!’”

And that’s exactly what happened to David Pittsinger, the internation-

al opera star who made his Broadway debut asEmile de Becque in South Pacific and who alsoperforms Some Enchanted Evening on thisrecording.

Pittsinger says he’s in awe of “the genius ofJohn Wilson. He captured the essence, the flavor,

the text and the color of the filmorchestrations. It’s inspirationalto be a student, curator andchampion of this music, whichserves as a great tribute to thelasting relevance of Rodgers &Hammerstein.” Interestingly,South Pacific was the firstmusical featuring R&H as bothwriters and producers. One ofthe most successful partner-ships in the history ofAmerican musical theater,their musicals have collec-tively earned 34 Tonys, 15Oscars, two Pulitzer Prizesand two Grammys.

For this unprecedented recording, Wilsonchose what he considered to be “all the besttunes... where the orchestrations show off theorchestra.” He also showcased a broad cross-section of characters—“the Rodgers &Hammerstein types”—and intentionally castgreat singers who are also respected actors.

“John is smart at getting all the goods to makemusic,” adds Chapin. “I think Mr. Rodgers and

Mr. Hammerstein would be thrilled by the results. They’d say, ‘Whoa, that’s what we

wrote… and that’s exactly the way we wanted it to sound.”’

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1494 Club: A New York-basedwhisky club directly targetinghigh earners, 1494 honors theprivate social clubs of the 19thcentury. Founder DavidClelland has secured an undis-closed townhouse inManhattan where memberscan convene for tastings andcurate their personal collec-tions. Founding Members($175,000) gain access toScotland distillery and golfcourse trips via private jet,while Collector memberships($25,000 and up) also boastmany perks. “I wanted to offeran experience, and a lifetimecommitment for collectors,”says Clelland.

The Whisky Dog: FounderNicholas Pollacchi is an affa-ble, stylish young Scotsmanwho has worked all angles ofthe whisky trade. What he feltwas missing were private tast-ing events customized to meeta company’s or individual'sneeds. Meet The Whisky Dog.“We’re all about sitting downwith the client and creatingthe kind of experiencethey want to create. Is itfocused on high-end, rareproduct, or is it a one-to-oneScotch 101 seminarwith younger execu-tives?” asks Pollacchi.In addition to offer-ing a large range ofspecialty whiskies,Pollacchi can cus-tomize events toinclude extras likefine cigars, a bespoketailor, food pairingsand musical entertain-ment.

Branded Whisky Clubs:Groups like the GlenlivetGuardians, 1801 ChivasBrotherhood and theCustodians of The Dalmoreprovide extra perks for yourfavorite brands. Sign up onlineand gain access to early releas-es of new expressions, private

tasting events and more.The GlenlivetGuardians, for exam-ple, have sole access tothe Guardian SingleCask Edition (about

$300), and to a three-day "WhiskySchool" at theSpeyside distillery,including the

opportunity tobottle yourown whisky.

The Scotch Malt WhiskySociety of America: Thisbranch of the popularEdinburgh-based Societyallows members the opportuni-ty to sample and buy rare sin-gle-cask expressions, custom-made for SMWS. Bottles areidentified by number (i.e. CaskNo 106.18) rather than distill-ery, to allow the whisky tospeak for itself. The date of dis-tillation, number of bottles andtasting notes are printed oneach bottle. Membership is$229 (which includes a kit withfour sample whiskies), and anannual renewal fee of $60.Members also get discountedadmission to tasting events.

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Single malt fans have more options than ever to customizetheir drinking. By Robert Haynes-Peterson

BESPOKE BOOZEIt’s an excellent time for connoisseurs of single malt Scotch whisky. Distilleries are expanding, pro-duction is up, with more iterations of fine and rare releases than ever before. For those seekingeven more unusual drinking options, a cottage industry of whisky clubs and concierge serviceshas arisen to assist in customizing your whisky experience like never before.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR SAMPLING FINE AND RARE

WHISKIES (OR STORING YOUROWN COLLECTION), ARE

INCREASINGLY POPULAR.BUT THEY DON’T ALWAYS

COME CHEAP.

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EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.

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lathered in SPF 4 Bain de Soleil Orange Gelée whilesipping a Gosling’s Bermuda Rum Swizzle poolside isthe ultimate way to enjoy a good book on vacation. Butthis indulgence comes with a price, as evidenced by myfriend’s oil-stained designer cover-up.

But life is meant to be lived, and unseemly mishapsare bound to happen (if you’re having fun). We all want

to prolong the life of an expensive Zegna suit or Chanel dressthat has lived through many good times. However, dunking itin the infinity pool isn’t the solution.

The best way to protect your investment is to use a reputabledry cleaner who knows how to care for high-end fine designerapparel. As we’ve all discovered, some dry cleaners are betterthan others. So what makes one superior?

A top-notch dry cleaner has a professional relationship withretailers of fine garments and often designers themselves. Thishelps him identify the fabrics and the best way to clean andultimately save your expensive garments. Your fine clothingretailer can direct you to the most qualified dry cleaner for thebrands they sell.

A couture cleaner’s knowledge encompasses the proper wayto treat fancy embellishments such as beading, feathers, leatherand suede. Discuss with your cleaner what caused the stain tohelp him or her decide on the proper method for its removal.(Be honest!)

Different stains, such as protein-based (dairy, blood); tannins

(wine, coffee, etc,); oil-based (butter, car grease, body oil, thatpesky Bain de Soleil); or dye (blueberries, permanent markers)all require different methods of removal.

One of the biggest mistakes you can make is attempting toremove the stain yourself. You risk destroying the fabric as well aspermanently setting the stain. Your dry cleaner has the expertise toremove most stains, even invisible ones left by perfumes andcologne that can wreak havoc over time.

Here are some questions to ask before entrusting a dry clean-er with your fine garments: • Do they send out the garments or clean them on-premise?• Do they wrap specialty buttons to prevent scratching?• Do they hand-iron and offer hand-finishing? • Will they pre-measure and block those expensive Chanel,

Brunello Cucinelli or St. John knits to their original shapes sothey won’t distort during cleaning?

• Do they offer rush services and tailoring?• Is home pickup and delivery available?

A couture cleaner will provide all these services. To be on the safe side, always do a trial run with a less-loved gar-

ment before committing an important piece to their service. Andone last tip: When it comes to suit separates, have both piecescleaned even if only one needs it so they show the same wear.

Until someone invents a virtual wardrobe from which to wipeaway life’s mishaps, the best option is to bring your fine threadsto the professionals. Your apparel will thank you.

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KEEP IT CLEANPREVENT YOUR CLOTHESFROM GETTING AS DIRTYAS YOUR BEACH READ. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

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“Only that day dawns to which we are awake.” HENRY DAVID THOREAU

w a l d e n

Awaken your senses at Walden, a 1000-acre sanctuary in the heart of Ohio’s great Western Reserve. Experience championship golfi ng at Club Walden. Enjoy AAA Five-Diamond® hospitality at the highly acclaimed Inn Walden. Retreat to the tranquility of Spa Walden, and if you are too enchanted to leave, Live Walden in a custom dream home. To set a new course, visit www.yourwalden.com or

call 888 808 5003.

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