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Kaza to Manali : A road less travelled

August 27, 2009 By: Nandan Jha

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Table of contents for Delhi - Sangla - Kaza - Manali - Delhi

1. Shimla to Kaza A Road Review2. Kaza to Manali : A road less travelled3. Banjara Orchard Retreat, Thanedar, Simla Review4. Banjara Sangla Camp, Sangla, Himachal Pradesh Review5. Chitkul, Sangla (Himachal) A photo essay

Many years ago, my wife read about a place called Lahaul-&-Spiti and somehow fancied the idea of going there. When the time came, we actuallyhad no idea on what exactly it was. We knew that its in HP and that its far. After some digging, the fact about being far was validated and with itcame another discovery that if everything falls in place, we can drive on a 200 Km odd stretch through Himalayas which only opens for 3 oddmonths. Wow! SRKs dialogue in OSO validated Ralph Waldo Emersons words around the universal conspiracy behind happening things so wellused by Paulo for The Alchemist. Yeah, yeah, I am getting cryptic again. Re-Read if desired. SRKs dialogue in OSO validated Ralph WaldoEmersons words around the universal conspiracy behind happening things so well used by Paulo for The Alchemist.

Kaza, the capital of district Spiti in Himachal Pradesh, was great for the 2 days we were there, a visit to couple of villages which are as up as one cango, go to Ki Monastery and if I show you a pic its difficult to believe that one day I just started from my home and rev-ved the engine and reachedhere. All was well but the itch to drive on that stretch was getting difficult to control. The road has just opened the day prior. My better one-3rd (theelder one) was not feeling too well because of HAS (High Altitude Sickness) and on 2nd days evening before dinner, we decided to call it short atKaza and drive next morning straight to Manali. Few phone calls to convince Banjara Camp guys to get us a room at Manali, and to adjust themoney for the night we didnt stay for any future endeavour. While all this was happening, it started raining and I tried my luck to fill the tank bydashing to local fuel station, only to find it closed. It is a Sarkaari Gas station. A jugaad late evening through a local business man-cum-good-Samaritan-cum-guardian angel who was celebrating the purchase of a new JCB in the dining hall over Beer (amazingly quiet folks, though), to getfuel in the morning. Finally, packing up the hardware, the excitement for the dream-run and the anxiety it entailed we went to sleep.

We got up at around 7. I could see this large mountain at a distance from the glass wall in my room from my bed itself, then comes the river, thensome greens which you can see better as you get up, and finally the parking lot that had my car; and by the time I was standing, an alert lookconfirmed that the passenger side rear tyre had gone flat. What an eye! Sigh!

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Kaza is a small town, if you would like to call it a town. I jogged down to ground level alerting my wife on my departure and took the car to thepuncture-repair guy since someone told me that he has seen the shop open about 10 minutes back. The shop was shut. I asked around, found the guyat a distance, convinced him of my need and after about 60 minutes of work I was back to our hotel with a round-enough tyre and full-enough gas found the JCB guy there and the Sarkaari petrol pump opened in time so all done.

We started at about 9.30 from Kaza and in a while we were going past Ki Monastery. You cross the rivulet and get on to the other side that goes toManali.

The whole stretch can be divided into following sections:

1. Kaza LosarDistance 58 Km. 2 hours

Kaza-Losar is a very special drive with large green (desert green) meadows flanking the strip of tar, the road is pretty neat. You pass many villagesand most of them just come and go since they dont inhabit too many people, 100 to 500 or even less.

It is very scenic and pure with hardly anyone around. You can accelerate and buffer up for the rest of the day on this stretch. We were a caravan oftwo vehicles so one of us would stop for a pic or two while the other would carry on and then we would find the other doing some shots later. Thiscarried on for initial 30-45 minutes before we realized that something is a miss.



I stepped down and gathered that the rear passenger-side wheel cap was not in place; probably I didnt put it well. Remember that the puncture fixact was a shared one. It seemed OK. By now the other car had passed by and we waved them along, sensing all were fine.

One more furlong, and suddenly the car stopped. You push the gas paddle, nothing happens. I stepped out and couldnt believe what had happened.The wheel was jutting out but thanks to the wheel cap, it was somehow still holding on to studs (the wheel goes to a stud and then you bolt it with anut) but car was not really resting on that wheel.

The first reflex was to wave at the other car that we could see at a distance but no avail. It was like a help disappearing, the whistles and shouts justdidnt work. The line of sight went beyond a mile in all directions with not a soul alive visible.

Well, what happened actually was that when I replaced the tyre (while the punctured one was being fixed), I didnt screw the nuts well enough. Iremember that I was offered a cuppa hot tea and probably I thought that I would resume the screwing later which never happened.

I raised the car up on the jack only to realize that the studs on which you fix the nut had gone free, abbraised the spiral carving In simpler worldswhile the car was running and as the nuts were struggling to pop out, it gradually scraped the rings. Thankfully enough, three out of the five nuts hadgot stuck between the wheel and the cover. Anyway, my recently bought heavy-duty steel paana came handy and I managed to tighten two screwssomehow. I also realized that if this tyre goes flat then there is no way I can unscrew it. With two nuts (pun unintended) totally worn out (punintended), and after tightening the third one that eventually went free, I had run out of ideas. Of course, amidst all this I hurt myself as well but aman needs to do what a man needs to do.

1000 invalidated options were squashing our minds should we just try to go back on the 3 screws. And just then, one local chap came alongwalking by and assured that hes gonna help us find a screw, so we drove back on 3 screws to the last village we passed by. While struggling withthat, we were being overtaken by a couple of guys in a Bolero Invader. A quick glance and they stopped, asking whether we needed help. It didnttake long for both of us to briskly walk down to them to explain. Apparently the duo was on a recee on the same stretch towards Manali for a motor-bike expedition.

Have you ever heard about the puzzle about losing five nuts and then taking a nut each from other wheels and making it work for a short distance.Thats what the super confident champ of Bolero did, he took a nut out from the front passenger side wheel, a right nut when pushed well went ineasily and we started. He was not too happy for all the time we had lost so he wanted to rush but promised that we would drive together at least till



we reach Batal.

The drive till Losar was mostly uneventful (yeah ok peaceful). A car with two young parents with a 4 year old Kid driving through some stretch ofthe upper Himalayas. Honestly, we were still on the edges of our seats and couldnt even think of taking any more pictures. Trust me, it WASpicturesque enough. So with the high spirit, non-challant faith and hope we drove on.

The drive has a good mix of tall mountains, rubble, hundreds of melting glaciers, narrow streams crossing the road, good roads, off roads, no roads.We kept our focus and carried on.

The storm preceded lull or so it seemed.

Losar Kunzum La BatalDistance Km. 1 1.5 hour

After Losar, you are now on a no-road zone. You also begin to gain altitude. The speed goes for a toss and your only focus is to make progress,however tiny it may be. Since the snow was cleared up just few days back, there was nothing done as yet on the ground so we were maneuveringaround rocks, crests, trough and making progress.

As you go upwards, the grey/brown scenery begins to turn into White. You pass through snow columns, you can actually take your hand out andgraba ball of fresh snow. The surface at more than one place is full of slush.

By the time you reach Kunzum La, its all glaring white. So much so that at times it difficult to stare at one particular point for more than a moment.The air is thin, the growl of the engine increases as it tries hard to pull enough air in.



We stopped at Kumzum La, submitted our prayers and moved on. We were now at 4590 meter, Leh is at 3500 and Khardung La is at 5602, andthough it may not qualify for the highest motorable road, it certainly commands enough respect among drivers like me as the one which is probablymore difficult than Manali-Leh.

As we sloped down, we got more confident. I would stop multiple times to check both the wheels, and they were as great as everything around. Thephoto sessions returned and we took our first break at Batal.

Batal is the point of a glimpse of civilization. It has all of the two shops selling hot tea, maggi and some beds. Thats more or less about it. We hadour packed lunch, polished it with the tea and moved on.

Batal Gramphoo ChatruDistance 32 KMTime 1.2 1.5 hours



Post Batal, you dont go up or down too much and its more or less a flat surface drive with the river (Chenab) accompanying for most of the distancebut the surface is really not a surface. You pass through a stretch where you can zip at 40 KMPH and then you encounter a stretch where it has todone slower then 10 KMPH. After Kunzum La, this section doesnt feel like a big drain but you need to drive to get pass this.

After a while we spotted the other car (that started with us, and the one we lost when the tyre crashed) and waved to them. Later when we stopped atChhatru, they told us that they waited for a long time and then thought that probably we stopped for pictures etc. From then we were together tillManali.

Chhatru has a shop where you can get tea so we took another break, had some thing to eat/drink and parted our ways with the Bolero guys.



Chhatru Rohtang MarhiDistance 60 KMTime 2-3 hours

Post Chhatru, you take the climb again. With many more glaciers, the color takes a change again from brown to green. The other side of Rohtang isjust the opposite of this side but the effects are already begining to show. It was not much before when it started drizzling.

In no time the drizzle became a shower to a pour and since we were gaining height quickly, it turned into a snow-fall that was now a heavy wildblizzard. By the time we found the main tar road, the weather had taken a sharp dark turn and with that rate, it was not too far from becoming adanger. We put the blinkers on, and the fog light, and the headlights and moved on. It was getting difficult to drive with all the snow, on almost noroad, with those turns and since we were now at quite a height, one side mountain and one side gorge regime had started again.

The tar was getting from bad to worse. We grew patient with every oncoming vehicle, trying to guess the weather from their outer state. By now, wewould spot a car or a van or a mini truck quietly standing on the shoulder, choosing to wait rather then drive this thick outburst of blizzard. Thewipers were doing best as they could and when we reached Rohtang, we didnt see a single soul.



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We crossed Rohtang with the hope that road would get better but it was not to be. It went worse. Mahindra rocks and we inched along slowly. As westarted to climb down, the common thought was that the snow would at least become rain at low altitudes but we were making so little progress thatit took a long time.

This was the most, the fiercest, the biggest snow-down I have experienced in my life. While we could somehow manage the heavy snow, the road (ifit can be called one) was simply not there. With craters as big as as a football ground, cave-ins, water logging, snow and what not, we only prayedalong.

The only break in this long monotony was the ride we gave to two young riders whose rented bikes had bronken down in the fierce rage of mothernature, their other friend was accommodated in the other car and we dropped them at Marhi.

Marhi ManaliDistance 30 KMTime 40 minutes

From Marhi, the road suddenly improves. Its almost like youre on the plains! We survived a jam of 1 hour and reached our hotel by 8-ish. Idropped my wife and kid at the hotel gate so that they attain sanity sooner and as I parked my car, the bell boy saw this big 20 Litre water bottle andasked me, bahar ki party hai kya?. I didnt mind being taken as a chauffeur to a foreign client, I answer patiently main hee party hoon.

A drive well taken.

About Nandan JhaNandan Jha has written 115 posts at Ghumakkar.Well traveled.......is what I would want to be tagged as, definitely far shorter of that as of now but hoping to reach there. Also, Igenuinely believe that traveling builds tolerance, we do more of it, we build more tolerance, we build more peace, one trip at a time.Google

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MotorcycleDiaries. Road toLadakh (Kaza Keylong Sarchu)58 Responses to Kaza to Manali : A road less travelled



1. Manish Kumar says:August 27, 2009 at 2:59 pm

Nice travelogue. In which month you visited spiti. Why people do not take the other route via rampur & kannaur. After distance from shimlais more or less same.

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2. Jerry Jaleel says:August 27, 2009 at 4:37 pm

Nandan,

What a spectacular adventure, driving through unpaved high mountain trails with a young family during a blizzard in winter months, unawareof the fact that one of the wheels might part with the vehicle at any given moment. With my experience of driving long winter months inCanada for the past 40 years, I wouldnt dare to drive the route you took in such conditions even with snow tires and heated interior. You havetaken too many chances. Please be more careful, my friend.

Apart from that, the post commands high commendations. The photographs and the video clips offer much excitement. Congratulations andhope to see more such adventures from you.

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3. Sid says:August 27, 2009 at 7:36 pm

Didnt see a mention of the vehicle you were driving? Was it able to handle all that abuse?

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Anando says:January 23, 2011 at 4:02 am

I think he said mahindra rox so I am guessing its a scorpio or bolero?

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4. sanjay says:August 28, 2009 at 3:14 am

this one looks like an amazing adventure!! and yes i would also like to know about your vehicle.

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5. Mahesh Semwal says:August 28, 2009 at 3:53 am

wowwwwwwwwwww !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what a amazing photographs. Nandan One thing I want to know, what you were feeling while driving on such road with family. Is there anyfear in mind?

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6. nandanjha says:August 28, 2009 at 4:16 am



Manish We entered Spiti via Rampur only with a stop over at Sangla. This road is a shorter connection from Manali to Kaza. I do not knowbut I am sure that people from Shimla would prefer the Recong Po Sumdo connection, though not sure whether there is enough traffic ingeneral.

From travel perspective, usually folks do the loop i.e. Shimla Kaza Manali.

Jerry Big thanks for your valuable comment. We didnt know what we were venturing into, we had a good idea on what this could be butfirst time on that kind of snow belt. The one big lesson we came back with was that this stretch is more of a expedition/caravan kind of thingwhere its always useful to have a 2-4 vehicles together. There have been cases where people just got stranded for the whole night since thesupport system takes a while to reach there. I really understand it now and I would not try to do this along or with small kids or things likethat.For sure, more careful next time. Thanks again.

Sid Mahindra Scorpio, old one, 2.6. Yes it was. Infact we only saw Mahindras (Pickup, Jeep, Bolero, Invader etc). For a long time,whenever I saw an Innova, I would think that why not Innova. When I bought mine, Innova was not launched. But after this trip, I fullyunderstood that Mahindra is what you need for this country.

Sanjay Yes indeed it became on, unplanned. Mahindra Scorpio.

Mahesh Thanks man :-). No fear but yes after that wheel thing, for sometime I was more worrisome. Probably all the driving has made me alittle rough than needed.

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sanjeev gandhi says:July 14, 2012 at 3:00 pm

scorpio is a sturdy vehicle, good enough for this route, which is also called tribal circuit, entering from simla-rampur bushair-sarhan-rekong pio side to Kaza and then coming out from Losar-kunzum la-batal-chhatru-chhota dara-gramphu-rohtang la side. The teaprepared by chacha aka dorjee at batal is really famous on this route. My son rahul, then 6 yrs. old (in july 2011) was also with me andfour other friends. When I was at his age, I never heard about these places and this kind of adventure trip, but fortunately, he, at this agedid it.

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Manish We were there in early June.

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8. smitadhall says:August 28, 2009 at 5:29 am

Well, to answer Maheshs question, you can see Jhas spirit in the 1st video (Kaza-Losar) and compare with the others (the rest of the videos)that were taken after the hiatus of the tyre fiasco, ha ha ha :)

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Mahesh Semwal says:August 28, 2009 at 7:22 am

Thanks Smita for replying my question and adding your comments also. But sorry I cant compare Nandans sprit as I am not able tosee the video, only blank space.

As Nandan said, driving made him rough than needed, how about you? Tavelling on such road with a small kid is not troublesome?

I am blessed with 2 daughter , I love to drive on such roads , but with family I will think 100 time before I take any action.

Heads off to you also Smita for taking such a bold decsion.

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smitadhall says:August 28, 2009 at 2:10 pm

Mahesh,

Thanks for all the nice words. Well, thankfully and over the period of time, our daughter has got quite seasoned for all this andcope quite decently.

I think it it about getting out there and doing it. The fact is that the kids enjoy and look forward to it much much more than we do.And the impact it leaves on them is also far stronger and positive. So itll be a good idea to keep giving it shots. Yes, try simplercircuits, sure.

And finally, the bold decision; was taken many years back. Now I am living by it and enjoying it :)

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Mahesh The videos should work for you. They are hosted at youtube.com and this story refers them here. Are you able to watch videos atyoutube ?

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Thanks Nandan,

Ok , I never tried youtube, let me see videos on youtabe and then I will come back to you.

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10. Upanshu Singhal says:August 28, 2009 at 2:23 pm

NDM,

Daring stuff, I can not imagine driving this route, but I want to do it. Suggest you be more safe, carry chains whenever you drive to snowymountains. I should gift you an emergency driving kit I have with me during my next trip to Delhi.

Pictures and videos are amazing.

-Upanshu

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11. mani says:August 28, 2009 at 2:47 pm

hi nandan, very daring to do this rough ride with your small child, great achivement for the whole family. later in life your child will havesomething to see and talk about this great gift of experience you and your wife (Smitha?)gave to her. very beautiful pics and videos (only fewcan be seen, may be becoz of slow net in my area)well done and thanks for sharing such a great experience.Mani

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12. smitadhall says:



August 28, 2009 at 3:16 pm

Thanks, Mani, youre bang on!

Thanks, Upanshu.

Hmmm it is not about daring too much, it was more about being more prepared for the weather in could be in terms of a support vehicle,or 2 spare tyres. For going with a small kid, honestly, that was the last of our worry. This trip just turned out to be more eventful than usual (itWAS an unusual place to begin with!) hence when we look back we learn and promise ourselves more.

Upanshu, the safety kit with be swell idea! Thanks.

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13. mani says:August 28, 2009 at 3:58 pm

two spare tyres, well equiped first aid kit and emmergency ration for human and the 4 wheeler seems to be good idea. I am thinking about myown trip next june/july.

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14. Rajeev Tivari says:August 29, 2009 at 7:51 am

Phew!

Talking of a watchful eye, bold decisions, screwing and unscrewing wheels, other puns, roads and football groundsAccomplishments.close calls! All is there.

And Mahindra truely rocks. And wheel caps are not only for show, now.

The most important tip could be to screw it completely before one rolled over/around for tea/snack(cross ref Shoba Narayans article intodays Mint Lounge).

Man that was really bad. Doing a mountain road (or absence thereof) with a dangling rear wheel. Good that Scorpio does not come with adifferential lock! (or does it?)

Those videos (by Smita Dhall, reporting live with driver/party Jha from the Himalayas) and snaps have made the post even more eventful.

And what the one third better half enjoyed were the Snow balls. That reminds snow-down, not bad.

Keep it up Jhaji. Your entire family, including the four wheeled ~|, rocks!

0ltx e l Ytx e~ g.

-Rajeev

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15. smitadhall says:August 29, 2009 at 8:53 am

oh-ho. Rajeev :) :) :) thanks for such nice words. thanks so so much.

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All Actually the snowy or really tough stretch is not too long. I entirely agree that this trip needed much better preparation and we wereplain lucky to get through.

Upanshu Lets do it together after we are done with our parental duties :-), it would be sad if government makes a good road there during



next 10 years but then probably that would help a lot of folks. So if its available , we would do it. All pics and Videos are courtesy Smita.

Mani Sir Thanks. I tried to load really small size pics , when you are in a good connection land, try looking at them. I could not have agreedless to all the points which you have mentioned. Thanks again.

Rajeev Vze e~o Yv vgx | :-) Shoba De would get some new readership today if I manage to find the Mint and read it.

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17. Rajeev says:August 29, 2009 at 11:42 am

Nandan, Thanks a lot. Btw please help me with video embedding. And that is Narayan, not De.

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BTW, whts that ?

I know one BTW BITU Tikki WALA :) , just joking.

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Rajeev Tivari says:August 30, 2009 at 4:42 pm

Good One:-)If you want to share more of such ones, do go through A short Journey.

http://www.ghumakkar.com/2008/08/22/a-short-journey-through-rain-in-plains-on-a-very-late-train/

:-)

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Rajeev says:August 30, 2009 at 4:49 pm

Good One, Mahesh:-)

BTW, :-) Do go throughA short Journey

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18. Rajeev says:August 29, 2009 at 11:44 am

Smita, I can see you smiling aloud, in your thumbnail and in your response:) Thanks

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19. Indrani says:September 1, 2009 at 3:08 am

Really a good excerpt, detailed enough for expats to venture too especially non Indian too wish sturdy 4 wheel drives were available inIndia which wud make such drives a piece of cake but kudos to u for taking it up! Few non Indian frnds of mine took a sneak peak and wantme to take them through this trail.now look wat ur write up did ! Here I planned a Sikkim trip for them through North Bengal etc coming



Jan and now they are pestering me to rethink!!!Thanks once again to both of u Nandan and Smita..warm rgdsIndrani

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20. nandanjha says:September 1, 2009 at 4:06 am

Thanks Indrani.

A 4 wheeler would make things easier for sure.

By the way, the road closes pretty soon, depending on weather and then it opens only next June :-). Its also not uncommon to have short-closure during the season (june sep) owing to some snow and other stuff.

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21. SandeepSehgal says:September 2, 2009 at 5:01 am

Amazing travelogue It made me feel as if I was traveling on the road myself.

I have very little experience of driving in the snow (that too in Canada where the roads were excellent), you drove on a near non-existent roadwith slush, your experience is much more than an adventure.

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22. sridevi nair says:September 7, 2009 at 10:03 am

Hidid you suffer any AMS (acute mountain sickness) over rohtang pass or Kuhzum pass?thanks.

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23. nandanjha says:September 8, 2009 at 5:05 am

No, none during the passes. I think the overall comfort factor greatly depends on vehicle, cabin atmosphere etc.

Smita did get AMS though while in Kaza. While we were visiting Kibber (supposedly worlds highest village) , we were told a few times byour Lama guide to cover head, same was shared with us at Sangla as well. I think if you keep some basic pre-cautions AMS is not somethingwhich you should un-necessary worry.

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24. bikerdude says:September 18, 2009 at 8:37 am

I rode on the Kaza Kokhsar Keylong stretch Nandan, you werent joking when you said there are no roads it was punishment and thattoo in all caps. riding from Losar check post to Kokhsar, although adventurous, is hell on the bikes suspension and your back I seriouslydid not think I would be able to make it out in one piece.. but I did so I guess I am a decent enough rider oh and BTW, I learnt somemotocross riding styles as well on this stretch

All in all, I would do this again but no more than two trips in an year anything more would ruin the charm of the ride :-)

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25. Patrick Jones says:September 23, 2009 at 3:40 pm

Blissfully ignorant, you ended up in high adventure with your family. Can only thank the Almighty for protecting you. However, it was worththe effort, I must add.

Ill find some muscular hands to accompany me if ever I undertake this trip!

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26. Jatinder Sethi says:October 5, 2009 at 10:18 am

My heart was going Dhak-Dhakwhile visualising you looking at the almostdrop-outwheel because of the missing nuts==at a no-where-place.I would have died with fear of no help. God Almighty must be watching with protective hands .the 4 year old angle!Great adventurethough.

If I may be allowed to be little naughty(to quote from your script) the lesson to be learnt is :never postpone screwing! Nuts of-course.

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Patrick Jones says:October 5, 2009 at 3:26 pm

:-D

Never imagined you could be this naughty, Sethiji!!!!

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27. Jatinder Sethi says:October 5, 2009 at 10:24 am

My heart was going Dhak-Dhakwhile visualising you looking at the almostdrop-outwheel because of the missing nuts==at a no-where-place.I would have died with fear of no help. God Almighty must be watching with protective hands .the 4 year old angle!Great adventurethough.If I may be permitted to be little naughty(to quote from your script) the lesson to learn is dont postpone screwing(Nuts of-cours )

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28. nandanjha says:October 6, 2009 at 3:48 am

Jatinder Yeah, in the beginning it was very just-keep-moving-closer-to-Manali kind of feeling. The good thing about this great country isthat you would always get some people , even if they may not be of great help but usually you would never be in true isolation.

The lesson is now itched in my mind for ever :), never ever postpone.

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29. Nitin says:October 8, 2009 at 4:09 am

Amazing description Nandan bhai. Want to do it myself. What would be the best time to do this stretch? Would a Maruti Sedan climp up thisterrain?

Thanks

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30. nandanjha says:October 8, 2009 at 4:22 am

Thanks Nitin.

The road is usually open from early June to mid of October. Depending on weather and other things.

Maruti Sedan wont be a good choice, you need a vehicle which can sustain lot of abuse like high altitude less oxygen for the car-lungs, badroads to no roads etc , and has a good ground-clearance.

What I would instead suggest is that you should do Manali-Batal-Manali (single day return) , that way you wont need to do Kunzum Pass andyou would get a very good feel of the overall place.

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31. arvinder singh says:October 4, 2010 at 9:50 pm

i have just finished atrip from manali to shimla by an Innova.It is a real adventure driving rough the real rocky hills without anyone aroundyou for miles and miles.The scenery from Gramphu to Kaza and even upto Tabo is worth all the pain. My advice for the fellow travellers is tovisit the area in the first week of october and not at all by a car even if it is an Innova due to less ground clearance of car. Most of the time youwill not find a road but a little wider mule track.Dont be in haste. Have a handy time and a good quantity of water and eatabbles.Instead ofgoing from tabo to shimla return back to manali by the same route as there is no charm on the way to shimla and it is very boring.

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32. Dheeraj - DeViL on WheeLs says:October 17, 2011 at 5:16 pm

Well, though I am back from the trip but it indeed is an experience for you and I can easily relate the picture of Kaza and Losar. Infact thatwas the most scenic of entire spiti after Pin Valley. The Losar Manali seems familiar to me as I was also there at similar time on my trip toChandratal (http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/exploring-chandratal-chattru-to-battal/). Infact we managed to reach Batal Gramphu at theearliest of the season in 2009. It was first week of June. and the views and experience was just too great. I can recall that from the glaciersfloating.

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33. Birinder says:July 16, 2012 at 3:13 pm

Hi, Can you tell me the hotel where you stayed in kaza as i am also planning to visit kaza with my family . How long it will take From kaza tomanali.ThanksBirinder

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34. Nandan Jha says:July 16, 2012 at 7:51 pm

@ Birinder We stayed at Banjara Camps. It is more like a guesthouse (a large house converted into a mini hotel) , clean rooms, good foodbut a bit pricey for the value it offers.

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35. Karan says:July 29, 2012 at 12:14 am

We were planning to take a trip from Chandigarh and have 5 days in hand. We want to visit Spiti valley and have an i20 at our disposal. What



itinerary would you suggest? And should we go via Shimla or Manali? We are leaving on 2nd August.

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Birinder says:July 30, 2012 at 1:41 pm

I am also from chandigarh staying in Sector 36 c .Last year we went to sangla and we really like it very beautiful valley.Go via shimlamy suggestion is you can stay first night at narkanda or at sarahan and stay 3 nights at Sangla For luxary stay kinner camps sangla orBinjara Camps are the best .For reasonable accommodation then PWD Rest House in sangla is the best .I have been to kalpa but i likesangla more. If you want to go to shimla kaza manali then 5 days are very less.

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36. jatinder says:October 24, 2012 at 5:15 pm

we followed route kaza manali through kunjuM pass in june2012 & believe it was travelled by us in alto800.four people were enjoying thistrip of which only 2 can drive.we remembered god in this journey as our 2 tyers were flat & we were riding only by gods grace .we faced aland slide just 4 km before gramphu & were in dilemma as no other vehicle had accompanied us till 4 pm in evening .thanks to BRO WHICHFILLED THE GAP AFTER A LOT OF HARD WORK & WE WERE ABLE TO REACH KOKSAR AT9.30PM IN NIGHT & PASSEDOUR NIGHT IN ROAD SIDE DHABA ON TABLES.ROUTE IS TO BE TRAVELLED BY SUV ONLY & ONE OF OUR FRIEND HASTAKEN OATH IN RETURNING TO LUDHIANA THAT HE WILL NAEVER ACCOMPANY US AGAIN ON A UNKNOWN PLACE.

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37. Vipul says:January 17, 2013 at 2:42 am

Respected sir, i am planning to visit kaza in may 21st 2013 . . Can u please guide me how to make tour . . I have 11days in hand fromchandigarh to chandigarh . . Please do reply . . Thanx . .

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38. Nandan Jha says:January 22, 2013 at 12:52 pm

@ Vipul Here is a suggested itinerary.

Day 1 Drive till Sangla. I am suggesting a long drive since it is day 1 and it is easier to leave early from home.Day 2 3 -4 : Stay at Sangla (Do local visits to Chitkul et).Day 5 Sangla Kaza. Long drive. Again my advice is to cover longer drives on the way up as it easy to keep the enthu going.Day 6-7 : Kaza (visits to Ki, Dhankar, Losar etc)

Day 8 Kaza Kalpa.Day 9 KalpaDay 10 Either you can do a long haul to Chandigarh or you can do a quick break at Shimla.

Kaza Manali wont be open in May. If you decide to go later then you can return via Manail. All the best.

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39. Vivek Sharma says:March 16, 2013 at 4:57 pm

Thanks Nandan for an inspiring story. I am doing Pune-Delhi-tirthan valley-sarahan-chitkul-Kaza and then backtrack via Chail-CHD to delhiand Pune. I drive a Ford Fusion Diesel, ground clearence 195 mm, more than most cars.After reading your story, the plan is Kaza-Manali-CHD-Delhi. I have a fair bit of hill driving experience. Did Manali-Gramphoo-Manali inPremier Padmani in 1999, and called a madman by a SUV Driver.

Thanks



Vivek

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40. Vivek Sharma says:March 16, 2013 at 4:59 pm

I forgot to mention the dates, will be in Kaza by 12-14 June 2013

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41. Nandan Jha says:March 17, 2013 at 10:19 pm

@ Vivek Thats quite a long trip Vivek. Probably the only guy I know who has done some bit of this stretch in a Padmini. :-) 12-14 Junesounds like a great time and hopefully, weather permitting, Kaza-Manali connection would have had a week of run. You may not see as muchsnow as what you see in this log but it would be very nice. All the best. Wishes.

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42. Natalya says:June 1, 2013 at 11:15 pm

after reading ur travelogue I couldnt wait, resulting in visiting kaza in early May with my daughter and one and half yr old son. But Kaza-Manali way was closed then. Even then enjoyed our journey very much on tough roads in our Alto. Me & my hubby r eager to visit that roadsagain

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43. gaurav says:July 22, 2014 at 1:05 pm

Please help us out, We are planning a trip to Delhi-shimla-reckong peo-kaza-delhi from 15th Aug to 23aug by our own RE bullets.

1.We are very much confused, is it safe to visit out there at this time?

2. We are not getting exact distance information about one place to another. Google map is showing shimla to reckong peo 700kms and manymore confusions.

3. Can you please share a plan with us how we can go fro, delhi to kaza and come back. We have 9 days in hand.

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Anando says:July 23, 2014 at 2:26 am

Well 8 days might be enough but here are some points you need to keep in mind

1) This is a bad time to go..its raining hard and there are often landslides . You might get stuck for days.

2) There are lot of construction of hydel power plants on the way so its extremely dusty..if anyone has allergy problems , bikes are not agood idea.

3) You need two days to acclimatise to the thin air up there so 8 days actually is cutting it tight. You need to acclimatise at reckong peoor Kalpa .

4) I saw the google map and its showing the route through manali, I have no idea why its doing that..i hope the road through rampur isnot closed..because if it is then yes its 600 kms ..through rampur its around 250-280 kms I think

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44. Nandan Jha says:July 23, 2014 at 9:46 am

@ Gaurav +1 to what Anando said. Rains should subside by Aug 15 though but looking at other things, it looks very very tight. Also my co-brother just went last month to Sangla and there is a section after Peo which is closed and the detour takes a lot of time.

@ Anando Google Map is not completely wrong since there is a connection to Kaza from Manali. Road through Rampur is all weather road.Road via Manali is only open for 3-4 months.

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ya bro I never said its wrong, I said through Shimla its way to long

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Meaning if he goes through manali route via shimla, it wont make any sense, hence i dont know why google map is showing sucha long route rather than the fagu narkanda rampur one.

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Naturebuff says:November 15, 2014 at 9:29 am

Hi Nandan,

Amazing journey! That too with a young child and a not-all-there Scorpio. Hats off!

All the same, a scorpio is the best vehicle I have seen in those parts. Very reliable and it did get you back safe inspite of thetrouble

@ Anando Google maps does not recognise the Urni detour therefore it keeps showing the Manali route We did thisroute in the 3rd week of July and we too were perplexed till we discovered the reason.

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Nandan Jha

Well traveled.......is what I would want to be tagged as, definitely far shorter of that as of now but hoping to reach there. Also, I genuinelybelieve that traveling builds tolerance, we do more of it, we build more tolerance, we build more peace, one trip at a time. Google Read FullMore posts by the Author

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