Kayaking the Cuyahoga: A How-To – Justin Glanville

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    ABOUT

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    KAYAKING THE CUYAHOGA:A HOW-TO

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    There are few better ways to immerse yourself in the geology and natureof Northeast Ohio than to kayak the Cuyahoga River.

    Huh? Geology, nature, Northeast Ohio? In the same sentence?

    Well, yeah.

    The river flows through a full spectrum of landscapes, from farms to acres of national parkwoodland to the angry steel furnaces and towering skyscrapers of downtown Cleveland.

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    I took a two-day paddle down the river with some friends in July 2014. The experience was one of the deepest I’ve ever had of the place where I live. I emerged from the journey with a better, almostprimal familiarity with the complex region that is Northeast Ohio. I also felt like I’d gone on animmersive natural adventure without having left my backyard — fully refreshed and ready to re-park myself in front of a computer.

    And last but not least, I had a cracking good time and made some new friends.

    You can do it, too! Of course, you’ll need to do a bit of preparing. But chances are a trip down the

    Cuyahoga is a lot more accessible than you think.

    Here’s what you need to know to make your own Crooked River conquest.

    Get Ready!

    1. Assess your physical fitness.

    You don’t need to be training for an Iron Man, but kayaking does require a fair amount of physical

    fitness. I’d say the two most important components are a decent sense of balance and good upper

    http://www.cudc.kent.edu/blog/commuting-and-connecting-along-a-crooked-river/http://justinglanville.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/jeff-jacknife-bridge-flats.jpg

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    body endurance. Notice I said upper body endurance, not strength. You’ll be paddling almost

    nonstop, so it’s important that you can hold up a paddle and push through water for hours at a

    time. Vigorous yoga, Pilates and/or light weight training are good ways to prepare for this.

    Cardiovascular fitness also helps, but rare are the times you’ll find yourself out of breath. Kayaking

    is mostly an anaerobic activity.

    2. Take a paddling course.

    A week and a half before I paddled the river from Kent to Cleveland, I was like most Northeast

    Ohioans. My feet had never seen the inside of a kayak, and my only experience of the river was

    crossing it in a car on high-level freeway bridges.

    If that also describes you, you can rectify your ignorance the same way I did: By taking a one-day

    crash course. I took mine through Kent State University’s Crooked River Adventures , but 41 N

    Kayaking Adventures and Keelhaulers Canoe Club in Cleveland also offer classes.

    These courses will teach you the basics of kayaking. You’ll learn how to put on your gear, tips fornavigating river obstacles, how to paddle and how to make a “wet exit” — ejecting yourself from

    the boat if you flip.

    The great thing about taking a lesson at Kent State is that you’ll learn on the Cuyahoga itself. The

    Kent section of the Cuyahoga is about as challenging a stretch as you’re likely to tackle anywhere

    on the river save the Cuyahoga Falls rapids, so if you can make it here you can make it just about

    anywhere upstream.

    Don’t worry if you’re terrified at first. It takes time to get a feel for being in a kayak, especially if

    you’ve never paddled before or you’re used to the relative stability of a canoe. After a few hours,

    though, your body and mind will start to adjust.

    http://www.keelhauler.org/https://kayak41north.com/https://www2.kent.edu/crookedriver/index.cfm

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    3. Plan your trip.

    Hashing out the details of a trip — especially a longer, multi-day one — can be daunting. Give

    yourself a few weeks’ lead time and tackle each question in turn, and you’ll have your adventure

    planned before you know it.

    Before you go, ask yourself these questions:

    How much time do you want to spend?

    First, decide whether you want to take a day trip or stretch your expedition over several days.

    (Hint: A day trip is probably a better idea for beginners.)

    If you’re doing a multi-day trip and you want to stay in nature, the primitive campground at

    Stanford House Hostel in Boston makes for a lovely place to stay. See below, in camping.

    How much of the river can you cover?

    Figure out how much of the river you can cover in the amount of time you’ve budgeted. On my

    two-day trip, we averaged between 3 and 4 river-miles an hour, but your speed will vary according

    to your ability and the strength of the current.

    Where will you put in and take out?

    The river is accessible only at certain points. This map (LINK) is a good place to plan your starting

    and ending points for each leg of your trip. You may also want to visit these places before your trip,

    so you can make sure you won’t encounter any surprises (blocked entrances, fallen trees, etc.).

    Where are the (damned) dams?

    http://justinglanville.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/justin-and-ben.jpg

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    The Cuyahoga flows a lot more freely than it used to. Authorities removed two dams near Akron in

    2013, and there’s talk of taking out a few more. But several impoundments remain — at Kent,

    Cuyahoga Falls, Peninsula and Brecksville, for example — and you’ll need to portage around them.

    Warning signs, posted on overpasses above the river, will forewarn you of each of these dams as

    you’re paddling. But you should also know where they are ahead of time in case you miss the

    signs. The Cuyahoga Falls and Brecksville dams are especially treacherous.

    How will you transport your kayaks to and from the river?

    You should also figure out the logistics of transporting your kayaks to and from the river. We

    rented a U-Haul for our party of seven paddlers, but if you’re a smaller group you may be able to fit

    your boats in a car or van. If you’re doing a multi-day trip, you’ll also need to figure out where you’ll

    keep your kayaks overnight.

    4. Grab some kayaks and some friends.

    You should never ever ever (ever) kayak alone. So find some family or friends to go with you. Make

    sure at least one person in the group has some kayaking experience, so he or she can take the leadand scout ahead for obstacles.

    Don’t have your own kayaks and need to rent some? Try these sources .

    5. Gather equipment and supplies.

    You don’t need a bunch of expensive equipment to kayak, but you will need some basic gear, food

    and water. There’s a full list at the end of this post.

    What to Expect

    In a way, the river’s sections are like chapters of a novel. Each part is different, alternating between

    high action and quiet lulls. Together, they unfold across a legible storyline — from chaotic, natural

    beginning to soaring urban climax.

    Unlike a novel, though, the river is always changing. While each section has some permanent

    characteristics, each also evolves from day to day and year to year, according to such variables as

    water level, pollution and fallen trees.

    Here’s a rough idea of what to expect on each section of the river between Kent and downtown

    Cleveland. (I haven’t paddled between Hiram and Kent, so can’t speak to that section.) You might

    consider stringing together several of these sections or just kayaking one, depending on how much

    time you have.

    Kent to Cuyahoga Falls

    (9 miles, 3 hours)

    http://www.cleveland.com/entertainment/index.ssf/2013/09/where_to_rent_a_canoe_or_kayak.html

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    Past downtown Kent, the river takes some fun twists and turns, the water slip-sliding along at a

    fast clip. Just north of town, it broadens and the current slows. You’ll paddle nonstop between here

    and the approach to Cuyahoga Falls, where the water quickens again.

    At downtown Cuyahoga Falls are Class 4 and 5 rapids. The elevation drops through this section

    nearly 300 feet, one of the fastest and most dramatic river drops in the Midwest. Only advanced

    kayakers should attempt this section.

    Everyone will need to portage around the First Energy Dam, a 60-foot concrete wall in Gorge

    Metropark just upriver of downtown Cuyahoga Falls. You can put in again at Cascade Valley Park.

    Cuyahoga Falls (Cascade Valley) to Peninsula

    (13 miles, 4.5 hours)

    Between Cascade Valley and Peninsula, the river is mostly calm, though “strainers” — fallen trees

    and branches that can trap kayaks — are always a possibility.

    You’ll also find the stinkiest section of the river here, alongside the Akron Water Reclamation

    Facility. Perhaps more disturbing than the odor of sewage is the sight of newly treated water re-entering the river, smelling faintly of detergent and topped with soapy white bubbles.

    After that, though, there’s the reward of entering the southern section of thickly wooded

    Cuyahoga Valley National Park .

    At Peninsula, there’s a small disused dam. Signs over the river warn boaters to portage.

    Peninsula to Boston (Stanford House Campsite)

    (3 miles, 1 hour)

    This short section of river was perhaps the most fun section I did on my trip, with fast-moving butnon-threatening water and plenty of twists and turns. It’s also over before you know it, and a great

    option if you only have an hour or two.

    If you’re spending the night at the Stanford House Campsite (see below), you’ll know to exit the

    river immediately after passing under two high-level freeway bridges (I-80 and I-271). You’ll be at

    the parking lot for the Boston Store Visitor Center, from where it’s an easy half-mile walk either

    along the Towpath Trail or Stanford Road to get to the campsite.

    Boston to Brecksville

    (5 miles, 2 hours)

    We skipped this section because we were worried about time (needlessly, as it turned out — we

    arrived downtown way ahead of schedule). But by all reports, it’s one of the Cuyahoga’s loveliest

    sections, winding through dense forest and Appalachian Plateau uplands.

    The low-level Brecksville dam is of the river’s most dangerous paddling obstacles: If you go over it,

    you could end up churning endlessly in the froth. You’ll know it’s approaching when you see the

    graceful arches of the 1920s-era Chippewa Road Bridge. Be sure to portage at the Station Road

    http://www.nps.gov/cuva/

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    neighborhood, most of the heaviest industrial activity ceases. You’re now in the urban wonderland

    of Downtown Cleveland, with its earth-toned skyscrapers and seemingly endless parade of bridges.

    This part of the river really is a living museum of bridge design. You’ll see retired jackknifes, lift

    bridges whose spans still raise to allow freighters to pass underneath, and the red-steel Center

    Street swing bridge, which rotates 180 degrees — to name a few.

    This part of the river is finding a new balance between natural and urban uses. The Scranton Flats

    section of the Towpath Trail opened in 2014, providing nearly a mile of multipurpose trail and

    replacing steel bulkhead with natural riverbank.

    If you want, you can stop off for a break at Cleveland Metroparks’ Rivergate Park . After pulling u

    to the wooden dock here, the new Merwin’s Wharf bar/restaurant is just stumbling distance away.

    The final mile or so of the river is manmade. Originally, the Cuyahoga emptied into Lake Erie

    about 4,000 feet to the West of its current mouth.

    As you enter Lake Erie at the 1940s-era Art Moderne Coast Guard Station and Wendy Park, the

    water becomes choppy and directionless beneath you — entirely different from the mostly

    smooth ride provided by the river.

    You now have two options for ending your journey. Either pull into the docks of the Coast Guard

    Station, if they’re open, or beach yourself on the northern shore of Wendy Park — a more prima

    and satisfying experience, in my opinion!

    Camping

    Camping overnight in Cuyahoga Valley National Park is a wonderful way to deepen your natural

    immersion.

    The Conservancy for Cuyahoga Valley National Park maintains five primitive campsites behind

    the historic Stanford House in Boston Township. The sites are about a half-mile hike from the river

    along the Towpath Trail. The fee is $20 per night. Potable water, a Port-A-Potty and a communal

    fire circle are provided.

    http://www.conservancyforcvnp.org/space-rental/lodging/camp-siteshttp://wendypark.org/http://www.clevelandmetroparks.com/Main/Merwins-Wharf.aspxhttp://www.clevelandmetroparks.com/Main/Reservations-Partners/Washington-Reservation-including-Rivergate-15.aspx

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    The sites are open between Memorial Day and Halloween. You can reserve one by calling 330-657-

    2909, ext. 119.

    Unless you’ve got a big kayak, stowing all camping equipment is going to be tough. Arrange to have

    someone meet you with your tent and other supplies at the campsite.

    Equipment and Supplies

    What to take and what not to take? Check it out.

    Lifejacket . Of course.Gloves . Especially if you’re a new paddler and haven’t built up calluses, buy a pair of gloves withextra padding at the palms and the crooks of your thumbs, where you’ll be gripping the paddle.Biking gloves should do the trick. I used these more specialized ones and emerged almostunscathed.Waterproof Pouch or Bag . Everything in your kayak — including your person — is going to get

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00651FV8O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1http://justinglanville.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/cvnp-morning-flower.jpg

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    wet. A basic waterproof bag or pouch can protect your wallet, keys and snacks.Drinking Water . Take plenty — at least a couple liters. With your hands constantly busy, it’s easyto forget to rehydrate. Make sure you break frequently to drink. (You might even consider ahands-free hydration system such as a Camelbak.)Snacks . By some estimates, paddlers burn as many as 600 calories an hour. To keep yourself fueled, pack a selection of portable, waterproof food such as energy bars, apples and trail mix.

    A note on clothing and shoes:

    You don’t need to buy any specialized clothing or shoes to go kayaking. It’s best to wear stuff that’srelatively quick-drying: swimming trunks, for example, make ideal pants. I also wore a UV-

    protected long-sleeved shirt to protect my arms from burning, but any old thing is fine so long as

    you protect yourself from the sun.

    Oh, and if you are wearing shorts or trunks, be sure to put extra sunscreen on your knees! They

    will be exposed almost the whole time you’re paddling.

    Other stuff to take:

    Rain jacket

    Sun-protective hatSunglassesSunscreen

    Other Resources

    Map

    Invaluable map of the river showing rapids, impoundments and places to refill water

    http://watercraft.ohiodnr.gov/portals/watercraft/pdfs/maps/eastern/0113Cuyahoga.pdf

    Water Quality Monitoring

    (The testing site is in Brecksville)

    http://www.ohionowcast.info/nowcast_cuyahoga.asp

    List of access points

    http://coastal.ohiodnr.gov/lake-erie-access/public-access-rivers/cuyahoga-river

    That’s it! Enjoy your trip!

    Anything I’ve missed? Feel free to let me know in the comments!

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    4 COMMENTS

    Ryan MackinPosted 7 August, 2015 at 4:48 pm | Permalink

    thanks for writing this! a good read–informative and well-written. my friends and I tube/raft/float

    waterways of NEO, so this is a great personal resource

    ust wondering what time of year you went on this trip..? i know the Cuyahoga is runnable most of

    the year, but would help to compare gauge readings for your experience vs. other times of year

    gvillePosted 16 August, 2015 at 3:11 pm | Permalink

    Hey Ryan! Glad you found this post helpful. I did the trip in late July last year. We had a pretty

    dry summer so water levels were fairly low in some places, which meant a couple times we had to

    scoot ourselves along the riverbed. Let me know if you ever write about your own experiences

    somewhere!

    Nancy NagyPosted 4 October, 2015 at 1:37 pm | Permalink

    How are the rivers running in the Brecksville reservation now?

    gvillePosted 8 October, 2015 at 3:21 pm | Permalink

    I’m not sure, Nancy, but given recent precipitation levels I’d guess about average depth and flow.

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