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The Worldwide KAPAGEN successful replications

The Worldwide KAPAGEN experiment replicationscreated on may 28, 2010 - JLN Labs - Last update July

2nd, 2010

Toutes les inf ormations et schémas sont publiésgratuitement ( f reeware ) et sont destinés à un usagepersonnel et non commercialAll inf ormations and diagrams are published f reely(f reeware) and are intended f or a private use and anon commercial use.

Due to the presence of High Voltage and the High Power output of the Kapagen, users of this documentshould be very caref ull and experienced in High-Voltage electronics to try anything out ! If you do it, the riskof any result is just yours. I take no responsibility of anything that might happen.

WARNING !!! WARNING !!!

Testing such a device needs a lot of caution and the use of saf ety procedures, theexperimenter must be very skilled in the use of High Voltage at High Power...

REPLICATIONS LOG BOOK f rom: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=7679.0

I would like to congratulate all the fellow experimenters which have been able toreplicate successfully my Kapagen generator...

Jean-Louis Naudin - JLN Labs

Latest published replication: July 2nd, 2010

# 1 - June 9, 2010 - Kapagen replication by dragonI've made several attempts withdif f erent coils and this is one of the better ones. The whole thing is Tesla basics as

you can see in the diagram of the circuit. The picture's show it running a small 40watt bulb at around 7 watts of input, the variac is set at around 50 volts. The NST isa 120V input with a 6500 volt .02 amp output. I have 2 earth grounds on this one butthe second doesn't seem to add anything and can be removed without changing the

light intensity or input requirement. One is required.

I've f ound by playing with various coils and bulbs it 's not so much the wattage of thebulb in as much as the resistance of the bulb or bulbs. I have no real way of

measuring the output at a wattage level, no claims are being made.... just aninteresting experiment.

.....

Since I really don't know how JLN or Kapanadze is actually going about it I've beentheroizing on my own of how to accomplish it and came to the conclusion it 's nothingmore than a reverse tesla coil. Instead of putting HV low amps into L1 and convertingit to extreemly high voltage you do just the oposite... put the HV into L2 and convert itto lower voltage and higher amps through L1. The trick is getting L1 to resonate with

L2 in its reverse f orm.

L1 being very low inductance using the earth ground through a load creates a psudotank in which L1 can reach high amps. I still don't have the resonance dialed in quite

right with this one although it seems to drive L1 reasonably well ( L1 being the 6 turncoil - L2 being the 90 turn coil - L3 the reversed 30 turn ). L3 is used to raise or lowerinductance to help match the two. It might even help to make this one adjustable to

some degree.

Getting bulbs to light is a matter of shuf f ling through various resistances to achievethe correct response. I've run 175 watt mercury bulbs with it but those react like FL'sand in my mind doesn't really constitute wattage in as much as a voltage response.

I've been doing some tests with a 150 watt halogen and it lights nicely produces lotsof heat but is f ar f rom f ull bright. At 150 watt input it will be blindingly bright (sun liketo your eyes), driving it with this set up it 's bright but not blinding and is using about

35 watts to get it there although I can get an orange glow with lots of heat at 10watts.

I need to do more work with this coil to dial in the resonance a bit better....

Fun stuf f ....

# 2 - June 9, 2010 - Kapagen successf ul replication v1.0 by romeroukI am using 260win the system and output is at least 500w.The bulbs are more than f ully powered.Af ter f ew more attempts I have destroyed 2 of them. I will have to get some more

bulbs tommorow and see how many I can connect and still keep f ull brightness.I tryedto measure voltage across one bulb and it shows 335v-ac but all my meters are

digital and I am sure it is not right.I need to get some analogic multimeters to f ind theamps and volts at the output.Few minutes ago I have started the system using DC to

power the system an now I can see that DC is the only way to keep the system

running f or longer period of t ime.Using ac the spark gap becomes very hot as with dcit is much better.Also having a capacitor 90.02mf ) connected in parallel with the load,

keeps the f lickering under control. I hope the picture attached will make allunderstand the basic of it.

# 3 - June 10, 2010 - Kapagen replication v1.1 and 1.2 by romerouk

I have posted another 2 video-clips testing circuit with high voltage AC then using DCas power source. ...I am in UK, using 240vac. Every bulb is 100w and I have connected 9x100w. Sorry If orgot to show that in the video... I will do it next t ime.I get around 1.6amp using AC to power the system but when I use DC it drops toaround 1.15....tube = 5.5cm/140cm - wire 4mm stranded except the big coil = 10mm stranded MOT Ihave no inf ormation about it. the tube is PVC 5mm thick

I have no connection with J L Naudin.He lives in France, I live in London - UK,f oreigner not Brit ish. I have a lot of respect f or all his work. Everything he does is

always well documented, t idy, showing a lot of knowledge in his work. I am very smallcomparing to him, many of us here are.I think that he is not trying to prove overunitywith kapanadze replication, it is just showing proof of concept.Many applications. on

J L Naudin website are proof of concept but enough to give us a start in manydirections. For J L Naudin f ree energy is a f act not just supposition. I am sure he has

many devices built showing extra energy. One thing I f ound is that you need bothearth connections directly to the ground and about 10m distance. I didn't try longer

distance as I don't have more lenght in the garden.In my f irst attempt I had one earthwas comming f rom the water supply and the other one f rom a copper pipe I f ixed in

the ground.That showed me 2.3 amps f or 500w load, then I have f ixed anothercopper pipe in the ground at 10 m distance and I got about 1.6a f or 900w load.MOT

stays just a litt le bit warm in my case, maybe you have a def ective MOT,run it withoutanything connected to see if it still gets hot, check capacitor value, if it is too high

might create the problems you have.Not recommended to start the device inside thehouse as it will interf ere with all electrical equipment, it does in my case, I have

almost destroyed the tv, running the device in the garden.It is a lot of radio wavesgenerated by the device and this is another problem at the moment.Turn of f all

electrical appliances in the house while testing.

Kapanadze replication v1.1 used 1.7A X 240ac = 408 watts input

Kapanadze replication v1.2 used 1.16A X 240ac = 281 watts input

Success all!

# 4 - June 11, 2010 - Kapagen replication by callanan

Not as good as a variac although much smaller. It 's a 1200W AC power controller orlamp dimmer. Not very clean or linear on a transf ormer but at least gives some means

of power control. Some is better thennone...http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?

ID=AA0346&keywords=controller&f orm=KEYWORD

I am using two seperate grounds spikes and not the house ground.

# 5 - June 11, 2010 - Kapagen replication by retrod

Here is my f irst attempt, so don't laugh . I used a large variac on the 120vac input tothe MOT (not shown). I had to work in the basement indoors so I used a copperwater pipe f eed f or one ground and an iron f loor drain pipe that leads outside &underground f or the second. The spark gap is a non resistor sparkplug with a vicegrip f or a heat sink. The lamp is a 200watt 120 volt. I used the DC circuit with a smallHV cap.First results:MOT gets very warm and the 20amp mains circuit breaker trips af ter 15 seconds ofoperation. Spark gap is electric blue, not violet. Please be caref ul with this circuit thevoltages present are indeed dangerous.

Dave

# 6 - June 12, 2010 - Kapagen replication by retrod

Second attempt. Af ter this mornings smoke test I almost gave up. Then there weresome encouraging posts and advice. Here is some progress to report. I noticed onmy set-up it works much better with high resistance loads. I started with two 40w lightbulbs in series and then thought to try f luro tubes. I am up to six tubes in series withthe two original 40w lamps. All the f luro tubes were removed f rom service a year ormore ago as dim or non lighting. It reminds me of when many of us were addingLED's in series working with Dr. Stif f lers SEC, what f un!I have no way right now to measure input current. The voltage out of the variac is 90volts. The spark has become very quiet with this load. I may post a short video onyoutube later.

# 7 - June 15, 2010 - Kapagen replication by woopy

Hello romero and all

OK i am almost ready f or a f irst test. I did the coil exactly as Romero that is 84 turnsplus 22 turns plus 6 big turns.the coil 1 and 2 have the same stranded wire (blue) andf or the big coil (green and yellow) there is 7 strand of plain copper, the center ismade with 4 stranded copper and something torsaded f or connection to one groundline, plus the main blue wire connection to the spark gap. the mot is rated 700 watts. Iwill use it directly (without the cap and diode f or a f irst test. What do you think ? Orcan i use the MO cap (0.95 micro f arad and 2100 volts) and HV diode.?

I will ground it with 2 ground line conducting to 2 galvanised steel bar going 1 meterdeep in the ground. and separated about 15 meter. I intend to use a wire with 3 t ime1.5 mm2 bounded ,f or the ground lines . I intend to begin with a halogen 500 wattswhat do you think ?

If it works, i will post the pictures of the construction of the coil step by step.

good luck at all

Laurent

# 8 - June 16, 2010 - Kapagen replication by retrod

Some numbers & a video.

MOT is a OBJY2Input Voltage : 120vacInput current : Measured at output of variac 4.0 amps avgLoad: Six 200w 120v LampsEarth Grounds : First: 200f t iron pipe (water well). Second: 10 f t driven rod, copperclad Spark Gap : Champion J-14 with neo magnet attachedAir temperature was 68 degrees FahrenheitMOT Temp at start 84 FMOT Temp at end 107 FRun time approx 4.5 minutes

# 9 - June 16, 2010 - Kapagen replication by woopy

Hi all

the rain stopped shortly , and could not prevent me to have a second test.

Took all precaution as per Stef an and 3,2,1 go

yaouuh it works very f ine. The bank directly connected to the grid does simply nolight at all, but with the Kapagen it is near f ull brightness. i have AC current , no cap atall. I did not make any measure but the grid f use did not even break. another thing ihave a radio on at 10 meters f rom the kapagen and nothing , no grrrrrbbrrkkkkkk, atall in the radio.

OK and the rain comes again

hope that tomorrow it will be better weather to make some measurements.

just f or inf o the bank as a resistance of 400 ohm. when i connect the bank to thegrid, my clampmeter shows 130 ma at 230 volts AC just another thing the bank wason and stopped only when i switched of f . but when i tried to take the measre ofresistance it was impossible. Than i checked the bulb and one was broken. I mean itseems that i probably had the arc in the bulb which make the bulb on even if thetungsten f ilament is broken. What do you think?

good luck at all

Laurent

June 18, 2010 - Working KAPAGEN diagram now released by JLN...

Click on the picture to enlarge

# 10 - June 21, 2010 - Kapagen successf ul replication by Robert

Dear Mr. Naudin,

Good news!

I got 1800W out and the MOT stays cold even the inlet power meter indicates 800W. Ithink that’s a real sign of OU. I have 2x150W halogen + 18x 100W bulbs (f ully bright)and all serial. If I would have more lamps I think they would shine f ully too.I observed that with the 1N5408 diode didn’t work – but with the BY255 it works verywell – just they get hot, so I add cooler.I don’t know way you changed the coil setup but with the coil relation 22 – 84 – 6 itsworking quite well.

Many thanks and br.

Robert

# 11 - June 23, 2010 - Kapagen successf ul replication by Juju

Hi Guys! I made a video of my setup, is my f irst one!

i putted some lamps of 60w others of 100w, all in series with a f an/ventilator of100W... i putted the f an in the end of the sequence going to ground, because it havesa capacitor of 230V, i was af f raid it can blow up if it takes all the primary voltage! 2

lamps in the video are not lighting well, but i think it was some problem with them!

this thing can f eed all type of devices, not only lamps!and it is not so spooky as at seems, when the adrenaline goes up, the f ear f ades!spectacular! my output dont work well with dc, as you can see, dont used any caps!dont took measurements because my DMM cannot read alternate current, only dc...

This vid is dedicated to the portuguese team in the worldcup, that win today 7-0against North Korea

Enjoy!

All my thanks specially to JLNaudin, romerouk, laurent, xenomorph, jonny and therest of the FE crew!

# 12 - June 25, 2010 - Kapagen successf ul replication by TomB-455

Dear Mr Naudin,

I have tried to replicate your coil and it works!

most of the setup is the same as yours, m.o.t. 800 watt, in dc mode. 10x150 watshalo-bulbs f ully bright!!i checkt my variac (but didn't put it on camera) and it was at 165 volts!!!exept f or the 23ccw turns on the entrance of the coil, those whre nessecery toreduce the input current.the pictures are f olowing soon. i did make a video though.. ;)

best regards,

TomB-455

This is an replication of J.L.Naudin's 'kapagen'.

I used f or this setup; (V2)M.O.T. 800 watt (D.C. setup), 10x150W halogen lamps(1500watt total) in series.Variac 1,5kva.Coil setup= prim.-88t(cw)+ 23t (ccw) , sec 7t(ccw).

The lamps are burning at 165 volts by 1.28 amps input on the 'kapagen' , thesef igures f luctuating in dif f rence of +/- 5%

# 13 - June 28, 2010 - Kapagen successf ul replication by magnetf lipper

# 14

- July 1st, 2010 - Kapagen successf ul replication by txqnl

# 15

- July 2nd, 2010 - Kapagen successf ul replication by don

Hi Mr. Naudin

The best (lowest input power) I could get was 707 Watts lighting 18 x 100 watt lightbulbs without using a variac. It used 570 watts to light 9 of the 100 watt light bulbs.

I measured my power usage with a Kill-O-Meter connect to Mains over 30 f eet awayf rom my device.

When I f irst turned my Kapagen on it used over 1100 watts and the lights wereapproximately 50-60% bright. Af ter playing with this f or a week I got the power usagedown to 707 Watts and the lights were at least 90% bright. I did this comparison byhaving one 100 watt light bulb connected to Mains sitt ing next to one of my lightbulbs f rom my Kapagen. I agree it 's not scientif ic but it was good enough f or me totell the dif f erence.

I did f ind that dimmer switches and amp restrictors used more power then they wereworth so I removed my amp restrictor.

But the most important thing I f ound was that the ground rods/connections/Earthwas the biggest f actor in lowering my power usage. I replaced my copper tube withconstruction grade grounding rods, applied water to the ground around my groundrods. In my area there is 6-12" of top soil and then under that it 's all sand. Sanddoesn't hold water very well.

Using Carbon rod and Copper f or the spark gap lowered my input power usage by 55watts.

Here are some pictures:http://u2ecom.com/kapagen/

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