ITALY GMT COATSVANTAGE BROWN - e-maillogic.come-maillogic.com/avant/Avant_FALLMAGAZINE.pdf · Our fall issue highlights many of our finest collections including Canali, Isaia, Hickey

AUTUMN 2018 • WINTER 2019 • ISSUE 1

ITALYby the rails New Rolex GMT

COATS a big story Aston MartinVANTAGE BROWN is the new navy

f o r m e n m a g a z i n e

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Welcome to our 2018 debut issue of Avant for Men Magazine.

We are very excited to have a new and vibrant way to reach out to you, our

VIP customers, this season and hope to continue with this new publication for

years to come. Our magazine is focused on updating you on the newest apparel

selections from our designer collections and offer our take on some of the best in world-class watches and men’s

jewelry, exotic vacation destinations, fine automobiles, and terrific food and wine for our discerning clientele.

We’ve happily traveled all over the world to find the right combination of goods for our customers. We have purposefully chosen

the most luxurious fabrics in rich colors from the top designer collections available from Europe and America. Avant for Men is

now stocked with amazing autumn/winter selections. Our fall issue highlights many of our finest collections including Canali, Isaia,

Hickey Freeman, Eton, Gimo’s, Jack Victor, Alberto, Gran Sasso, and Robert Talbott, to name a few.

From our first-hand insight into this fall’s fashions, we are excited to present the top trends and styles for men. We’ve pinpointed

the looks, textures, fits, and colors that are everywhere this season, and we cover it all in this issue.

On page 12, we explore the full overcoat silhouette for men that greatly influenced autumn 2018 runways in New York and

Milan heading into the season. On page 28 you’ll learn how and why both dress shirts and casual shirts have headed in new

directions for the modern man. The ’70s are back! Brown is the new navy for this season and we’re seeing rich olives, reds, and

camels, as well. We touch on each starting on page 44.

Enjoy our in-depth articles on the new Rolex GMT and Patek Philippe’s sport watches. Read all about a breathtaking trip from

Sorrento to Naples, Italy, by rail; collectible Ferraris, spas of Sedona, Areti’s superyacht, and much more. It all awaits you within

our debut issue of Avant for Men Magazine! Please enjoy.

A special thanks to all of our vendor partners and Razny Jewelers for helping make our publication possible.

As always, we would like to thank each and every one of you, our loyal customers, for your patronage and support. We look

forward to visiting with you again this fall season!

Sincerely,

Elia “Ollie” Galam

and the entire team at Avant for Men

A V A N T F O R M E N M A G A Z I N E • I S S U E O N E

1849 Green Bay Road • Suite105 • Highland Park, IL 60035 • Tel 847-681-1100

www.AVANTFORMEN.com

WELCOME

CONTENTS 3 WELCOME

6 AVANT FOR MEN

8 PINSTRIPED

10 ROLEX NEW GENERATION GMT

12 A BIG STORY...THE COAT

16 OLD FASHIONED UPGRADE

18 FORZA FERRARI

22 ITALY BY THE RAILS

26 PATEK PHILIPPE

28 THE SHIRT

32 HIGH SCHOOL DROPOUTS

36 TEAM LUXE

42 ANNUAL CALENDAR WATCHES

44 WE’VE GOT SOME PLAID NEWS

46 RED ROCK RETREAT

50 CONTAGIOUSLY KIND

A V A N T F O R M E N M A G A Z I N E • I S S U E O N E

12

26

22

Jack Shniderman • Project Coordinator

Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director Carol Besler • Editorial Director

Lori Roberts • Associate Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer

Kyle Boyer • Art Director Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor

Avant for Men Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 600 Corporation Drive, Suite 106 • Pendleton, IN 46064

T: 765-819-2500 • E: [email protected] • © 2018, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

44

CONTENTS

November 23rd, 24th, and 25th

Avant for Men Magazine wants to invite our compassionate customers to join the store in giving back to those in need this season.

As temperatures fall, so many in our community are in need of a warm coat or jacket. We have much to be grateful and thankful for. After Thanksgiving with your families, we’ll be taking any gently used/clean coats and jackets you drop off at

Avant for Men to donate to local charities on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. 4 Giving Days!

Please participate if you can. Someone out there will benefit from your nice, warm coat this chilly winter.

The entire team at Avant for Men thanks you.

1849 Green Bay Road • Suite105 • Highland Park, IL 60035 • Tel 847-681-1100

4

1 7 0 0 G R E E N B A Y R O A D I H I G H L A N D P A R K

8 4 7 . 4 3 2 . 5 3 0 0

CHICAGO I ADDISON HIGHLAND PARK I HINSDALE

2019LOOK FOR OUR HIGHLAND PARK EXPANSION IN

15CELEBRATING

Y E A R S

I N H I G H L A N D P A R K

Tufts_Ad_Razny_FINAL.indd 1 9/7/18 3:11 PM

8] A V A N T F O R M E N M A G A Z I N E

going vertical

Oh yeah! We are back in business — business dress that is — and it has a sinister edge. Is it 1985? While things get soft and fuzzy in casualwear, glitz and glamour return to the office in the form of vertical stripes, stronger shoulders, and anti-skinny pants. When the economy heats up, so too does the fashion bravado, when business becomes business again. Look the part and go vertical. Nothing says “I can conquer the world” like a navy pinstripe suit Michael Douglas might wear in Wall Street. Verticality can’t be ignored in all casualwear either. Modern pinstripe pants can be paired up with fall’s geometric sweaters for some laissez-faire, after-office, night on the town style.

PINSTRIPED

back in business again!

Photos courtesy of Alberto

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b y C A R O L B E S L E R

When it was introduced in white gold in 2014, everyone loved the GMT-Master II with its red and blue bezel. Since then, Rolex fans

have longed for the model to be released in steel. This year, their dreams came true, along with a few other tweaks that made this watch

the hit of Baselworld 2018. Not only is this iconic travel watch now available in Oystersteel, Rolex’s proprietary steel, but it also includes

a Jubilee bracelet and a new, improved, state-of-the-art movement.

Rolex redesigned the lugs and case sides to fit the five-link Jubilee bracelet, a somewhat dressier bracelet that is normally reserved

exclusively for Rolex Datejust models. Both are made of Oystersteel, the term Rolex gives its 904L stainless steel, which is super corrosion-

resistant and takes a higher polish than lower grades. The case is water-

resistant to 300 meters (1,000 feet).

Lovers of gold will not be disappointed, however: the watch is still

available in white gold, and it was also introduced this year in 18k

Everose, Rolex’s term for its proprietary alloy of rose gold. There is also

a new two-tone version, combining Everose gold and Oystersteel. The

bezels of both are fitted with Cerachrom inserts in black and brown

ceramic. Cerachrom is a proprietary ceramic alloy developed by Rolex

that is exceptionally scratch- and corrosion-resistant and does not

fade. The red-and-blue bezel on the new steel model reproduces the

colors that appeared on the very first GMT-Master in 1955, and which

inspired the model’s nickname, the “Pepsi,” among collectors. When

PRESENTING THE ROLEX GMT-MASTER II IN OYSTERSTEEL

NEW-GENERATION

GMTGMT

time zone

The red and blue “Pepsi” bezel is a feat of engineering because it is difficult to align these particular colors in ceramic. The bezel is one continuous ring of ceramic.


The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona has inspired more cult status than

perhaps any other watch model. Among the favorite renditions of the

model is the Paul Newman Daytona, a specific design named for the

late actor who wore one (his recently sold for a record price at auction).

The “Rainbow” Daytona, so-called because it is set with a gradation of

fancy colored sapphires in rainbow hues, is a particular favorite among

celebrities. This year, Rolex introduces it in Everose gold with a bezel set

with 36 baguette-cut sapphires in a graduated color range. In a special feat

of gemsetting and painstaking matching, Rolex pairs the indexes on the

dial with baguette gems that correspond with the colors adjacent to them

on the bezel. The case is set with 56 round-brilliant diamonds,

and the background dial is black lacquer, with subdials

made of 18k pink gold crystals. The movement is

the automatic chronograph Caliber 4130,

including a Parachrom hairspring

that is impervious to

magnetic fields.

CHRONOGRAPH OF MANY COLORS

traveling, the bezel’s 24-hour scale can be synchronized with

the red GMT hand on the dial to represent home time, while

the central displays the local time.

All three new models contain the new Caliber 3285,

replacing the Caliber 3186, which did not have Rolex’s new

Chronergy escapement and other improvements that add

up to a 15 percent gain in accuracy. It has a 70-hour power

reserve, compared to 48 hours for the 3186. Like all Rolex

watches, the movement carries a Superlative Chronometer

certificate, which guarantees ultimate precision. Among

other things, this means it is accurate to between −2 and

+2 seconds per day, more than twice the industry standard

for an official chronometer.

GMTGMTThe Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with Jubilee bracelet.

The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, set with a rainbow gradation of colored sapphires.


bigger is better Photo courtesy of Alberto

Looser and larger. For 2018 the trend is comfort and oversized silhouettes. It’s all about striking the correct balance and blowing up proportions. Think Richard Gere in 1980’s American Gigolo. Remember when the oversized tailoring of Giorgio Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider, bigger, and stronger? The ’80s were an exciting new decade that heralded the Reagan years and made Wall Street infamous. Today’s times somewhat mirror those familiar days. Consider today’s coats as armor meant to take on an uncertain future.

theCOATa big story...

LEATHER IS BACKThe long and short of it? Both are strong this fall. You could say leather is back in classic forms and rock’n’roll elegance. The ’70s has influenced the belted leather trench for women, and belts on men’s coats are once again in vogue. Matrix vibes done in black and gloss leathers can be oversized and ultra-long.

SHEARLING & FLEECE Comfort dressing. Loose garment shapes and soft textures can only mean more shearling, fur, and fleece. Tactile fabrics are set to be big at every level of a refined man’s wardrobe this fall. Naturally, warm tones of brown and camel are the most popular. A high quality shearling overcoat will last you a lifetime and keep you warm for just as long.

PUFFED, PADDED, & QUILTED Flirting with volume, puffer jackets and other feather-light duvet garments wrapped around the body in a protective layer, like modern armor, come with the requisite amount of squishiness this season. Quilting and padding dominates outerwear trends for A/W 2018. In fact, padding can be found on all kinds of outerwear, including trousers and blazers.

Photo courtesy of Vince



ithin the last few years, the Old Fashioned has risen from

a nearly forgotten bit of nostalgia to our country’s default drink of

choice. Can’t think of what you want to drink? Just order an Old

Fashioned. You’ll be glad you did. You can thank Don Draper and the

“League of Extraordinary Bartenders” for the ubiquity of the drink.

And you really should thank them, because it is a great cocktail. So

simple, yet so delicious. But it can always be better. We found five

ways to upgrade the common Old Fashioned.

A BETTER CHERRY Purists might disagree, but it’s okay to put a little fruit in your Old

Fashioned. We’re not advocating for turning it into a fruit cocktail,

but a little cherry garnish, as long as it’s the right cherry, is perfectly

fine. And the right cherry is the Luxardo cherry. Forget that syrupy,

gummy Maraschino cherry you find in a Shirley Temple. The Luxardo

is a sour marasca cherry grown in Italy and steeped in maraschino

liqueur and cherry juice. The result is a sweet, nutty cherry that’s

darker and more deeply flavored.

BURN THE CITRUS Take a tiny twist of an orange peel, about an inch in diameter, light

a match, and wave the orange peel next to the open flame, warming

the fruit over your cocktail glass. Then squeeze the peel quickly so the

orange oil shoots through the match, creating a burst of flame. Now

rub the orange peel around the rim of your glass and drop it in the

cocktail. Perfection!

A BETTER RYE

The Old Fashioned is meant to be made with rye, which isn’t as

sweet as its bourbon counterpart. You’re putting sugar in this cocktail,

after all, so rye’s spice is there for balance and nuance. To be honest, 90

percent of the time, I use a common rye like Bulleit. But we’re upgrading

here, so reach for something classic, like Michter’s straight rye, a single

barrel whiskey that helps set the rye standard. Or go with the trendier

WhistlePig straight rye, which offers more heat at 100 proof.

A BETTER SUGAR Forget that white stuff that’s in your pantry. The Hella Bitter Sugar

Cubes are made with raw Demerara pure cane sugar, which imparts

a bit of soft molasses flavor to the cocktail. The cubes aren’t cheap,

but it’s the little touches like this that can give your Old Fashioned an

edge.

A BETTER BITTERS

Think there are a lot of whiskies to choose from on the market

these days? Start digging into your bitters options and you’ll see just as

wide a variety. Angostura has had a relative monopoly in the cocktail

world until the last few years, when every bartender in the country

started making their own bitters. There are a lot of choices available.

You can get really esoteric with bitters and go down a serious rabbit

hole of flavors. Dutch’s Colonial Cocktail bitters are a good place to

start. The use of herbs and orange peel make Dutch’s Colonial a multi-

purpose bitter ideal for the Old Fashioned.

b y G R A H A M A V E R I L Lculinary cocktails

AN OLD FASHIONED DOESN’T HAVE TO BE, WELL, OLD-FASHIONED

OLD FASHIONED

UPGRADEUPGRADEW

w w w . d i o n n e c k w e a r . c o m

Dion_Tufts_F18_Layout 1 2018-09-04 11:49 AM Page 1

collectible cars

erraris are undoubtedly among the most highly

coveted automobiles. In recent years the market

surrounding the collectible cars from Ferrari’s golden

age of racing has exploded. The gavel keeps slamming

with ever-escalating sums of cash changing hands

in exchange for the sumptuous mechanical horses

of racing history. The aura around the Ferrari name

continues to glow brighter by the night, and every year

it seems a record is set for the new most-expensive car

in the world. Here are the five most expensive Ferraris

to sell in public auction:

FERRARIFORZAFORZAPRICIEST EVERA LOOK AT THE

AT PUBLIC AUCTION

FERRARIS


F

The Ferrari 375 MM was a highly

exclusive car manufactured between

1953 and 1955. The MM had a big engine,

but Enzo wanted to pack the car with an even bigger

monster of an engine to create an exceptionally fast

racecar. Equipped with a bored and stroked Forumla

1 V-12 engine, the Ferrari 375-Plus pumped out 347

horsepower and possessed a top speed of 186 mph.

This was the best Ferrari the company had produced

up to 1954. It was the fastest and most dominant

prancing horse there was, and moreover, it was a rare

breed. This is one of just five constructed and was able

to bring a price tag of $18.4 million at the auction block.

Discovered in a barn on Roger Baillon’s estate in France under

a pile of old magazines, this Ferrari sold to an unnamed collector

for a record $18.5 million — far more than initially estimated,

and astounding, considering its poor condition. One of just 37

made, this California Spider was once owned by French actor

Alain Delon, who was photographed in it with Jane Fonda and

Shirley MacLaine. This history certainly added to the value of the

beautiful but deteriorated car.

1954 FERRARI 375-PLUS SPIDER COMPETIZIONE

4 1961 FERRARI 250 GT SWB CALIFORNIA SPIDER

5

A V A N T F O R M E N M A G A Z I N E [19


Innumerable race victories glitter the history of the 250 GTO,

and perhaps no car better embodies Ferrari’s philosophy of

peak performance and immaculate styling. Its gorgeous lines

are the result of relentless research carried out in a wind tunnel. These

couple together to make this Ferrari more than a sum of its parts.

The 250 GTO was the pinnacle of development of the 250 GT

series in competition form, but it still remained a road car. However,

only 39 were made. This rarity, in addition to the vehicle’s winning

history, make it the most valuable Ferrari, and indeed the most

valuable car, ever to sell at public auction — going for a king’s ransom

of $38.1 million.

The 275 GTB was built by hand and incorporated

lightweight aluminum bodywork and a Tipo 563 chassis.

The successor to Ferrari’s 250 GTO, only three 275 GTB/C

Speciales were made. With the help of a 3.3 liter V12 engine,

the Speciale produced 320 horsepower. It also sported a four-

wheel independent suspension set up and disc brakes on all

corners. One of the three Speciales raced in the 1965 24

Hours of LeMans and finished third overall, setting a record

for best finish by a front-engined racer. This example sold for

an impressive $26.4 million.

The NART (North American Racing Team) Spider boasts a unique

blend of gorgeous 1950s styling and advanced mechanicals. Almost

the entire Maranello racing technology suite was included in the

NART Spider, which allows it to be both a comfortable street car

and a serious competitor. It’s V-12 sports quad overhead camshafts,

which were a first on a road car. The rear-mounted transaxle, limited-

slip diff, and independent rear suspension were all huge advancements

offered for the first time in the NART Spider.

Only ten Ferrari 275s were built in open-top configuration, which

makes this car extremely collectible. This Spider, driven by Steve

McQueen in The Thomas Crown Affair, fetched $27.5 million.

3 21964 FERRARI 275 GTB/C SPECIALE

1967 FERRARI 275 GTB/4S NART SPIDER

1962 FERRARI 250 GTO 1

CANALI_Napoli’s Todd Tufts_FW18.indd 1 28/08/18 12:22


travel italy

TRAVELS IN ITALY: NOTES OF THE RAIL

JOURNEY FROM SORRENTO TO NAPLES

If you’re on vacation in Sorrento, the rail

journey to Naples (and return) is an excursion

to consider. The 29-mile trip takes just over an

hour and carries you around the Gulf of Naples.

En route, you stop at a series of stations, each of

which is in an area noteworthy for its location or

historical connections.

ITALYBY THE RAILSITALYITALY

SORRENTO

Your rail journey begins here. Like

many of the surrounding towns, Sorrento

has a long history that extends back to

the ancient Romans. Moreover, the town

is a well-established tourist destination in

a memorable location. Sorrento station

is relatively easy to reach from the local

hotels. You can buy your train ticket at the

station or from a nearby newsagent outside.

S. AGNELLO

S. Agnello (Sant’Agnello di Sorrento) is

a village whose history started thousands

of years ago. The Chiesa dei Santi Prisco

ed Agnello is a particularly fine church

that dominates the Piazza S. Agnello.

PIANO

Piano (Piano di Sorrento) has a beach

set against an impressive cliff topped with

trees and shrubs. The English poet Robert

Browning (1812-1889) included Piano in

his poem “The Englishman in Italy.” His

descriptions represent travel writing at its

most expressive.


META

Meta’s fame rests on its shipyards,

which were particularly productive

in the mid-nineteenth century. Times

have since changed, but Meta still has

evidence of a seafaring economy that

historians have traced to the Etruscan

civilization of 750 BC.

SEIANO

Seiano is a small, quiet, and relatively

undiscovered area that forms part of

Vico Equense. The village has some

good views of the Gulf of Naples and

Mount Vesuvius.

VICO EQUENSE

Archaeologists have discovered a necropolis near

Vico Equense that dates from the seventh century

BC. The town became popular with wealthy Romans

in later centuries. The remains of a thirteenth-

century cathedral stand on a cliff directly above the

Gulf of Naples.

CASTELLAMMARE

Castellammare (Castellammare di Stabia) is adjacent

to the city of Stabia. The eruption of Mount Vesuvius

destroyed Stabia, along with cities such as Pompeii

and Ercolano, in AD 79. A ninth-century castle

(castello) gives the town its name.


VIA NOCERA

If you wish to see the ancient Roman

site of Scavi di Stabia, alight at this station.

The site, with its excavated villas, is not the

easiest place to find. You may need to take

a taxi and seek local advice. However, the

effort is worthwhile.

POMPEII SCAVI — VILLA DEI MISTERI

This station is a short walk from some

of the most famous ancient Roman ruins in

the world: the city of Pompeii. The site has

attracted tourists since excavations started

in 1748.

TORRE ANNUNZIATA - OPLONTI

Villa Poppaea, also known as Villa

Oplontis, is an ancient Roman site

situated just outside Pompeii. The

villa is a few hundred yards from the

station.

ERCOLANO SCAVI

Herculaneum is another popular

ancient Roman site. Like Pompeii, it

provides insights into how the Romans

lived. Ercolano Scavi is the nearest station,

but be prepared for a fairly long walk.

NAPOLI GARIBALDI

Napoli Garibaldi can be a

useful stop for some of Naples’

restaurants and shops. If you’re

unfamiliar with the area, ensure

you have a detailed street map.

NAPOLI PORTA NOLANA

Napoli Porta Nolana is near

a fifteenth-century city gate of

Naples. It is also the end of your

journey. The station is about 600

yards north of the sea.

The Circumvesuviana is the company that operates the electric rail journey

from Sorrento to Naples. The trains run throughout the day, although you should

always check the schedule in advance. The benefit of the journey is not only that

it delivers you to one of Italy’s foremost cities; it also transports you through a

fascinating landscape.

The city of Pompeii.

IT’S NOT THE EASIEST PLACE TO FIND,

BUT THE EFFORT IS WORTHWHILE.

THE NAUTILUS WAS FIRST INTRODUCED IN

1976 WITH A RADICALLY DIFFERENT DESIGN

COMPARED TO OTHER LUXURY WATCHES.

& Patek Philippe is famous for its traditional designs and complicated

watches, particularly perpetual calendars and chronographs. In fact,

its dedication to technical prowess sometimes overshadows the

company’s more contemporary classics, such as the off-round

Nautilus and Aquanaut luxury sport models. This year, the

traditional and the contemporary merge, with the first perpetual

calendar in the Nautilus collection and the first chronograph in

the Aquanaut.

The new Nautilus Ref. 5740, equipped with its first

high complication, created a buzz at this year’s Baselworld

watch fair. To give you a bit of history, the Nautilus was

first introduced in 1976 with a radically different design

compared to other luxury watches. First, it had a robust,

stainless steel case at a time when most watches were still

gold, and instead of round, the case was slightly octagonal; it

was inspired by the shape of a porthole window on an ocean

liner. It was termed a “luxury sport” watch and named the

Nautilus after Captain Nemo’s vessel in Jules Verne’s 20,000

Leagues Under the Sea. It has since become a cult favorite, moreso

now because it combines contemporary styling with Patek Philippe’s

signature complication.

b y C A R O L B E S L E R

COMPLICATED

CASUALPATEK PHILIPPE BOOSTS ITS LUXURY SPORT WATCHES WITH

COMPLICATED MOVEMENTS

time zone

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740 now contains a perpetual calendar complication for the first time.


The movement in the new perpetual calendar

version is based on the ultra-thin automatic

Caliber 240, an appropriate choice for the

Nautilus, since one of the goals of the original

design was to make it slim, like a dress watch.

The case is only 8.42 mm thick, which makes the

new Nautilus Patek Philippe’s thinnest perpetual

calendar. Befitting of a high complication, the

case is 18k white gold, and the dial retains its

signature horizontal grooves, a hallmark of the

model since the beginning. The subdial for the

date, at 6 o’clock, the most important calendar

indication, is slightly larger than the others and

combines the moon phase indicator, which will

not need resetting for the next 122 years.

The Aquanaut, introduced in 1997, was

also designed to represent the modern, casual,

sporty side of the brand, and it therefore makes

sense that it now has a chronograph. The Ref.

5968A-001 contains the Caliber CH 28-520C,

an automatic flyback chronograph with a vertical

disk clutch that prevents rebound when starting

the chronograph. The case is steel, and the dial

is embossed with the collection’s signature grid

pattern. An embossed orange rubber strap,

matched by orange highlights on the dial,

adds a sporty touch and distinguishes the new

chronograph from other models in the line.

It also comes with a black strap, and is water

resistant to 120 meters (about 400 feet).

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740 is only 8.42 mm thick, making it the thinnest perpetual calendar in the company’s wide range of perpetual calendars.

The Aquanaut, Patek Philippe’s modern, sporty brand, now has a chronograph movement for the first time.



modern shirtings

Shirts — some cultures find them a necessity. Ours is one. So, simply pull out that tired casual shirt or dress shirt and go. Simple, right? We’ve done it for years; we can do it again today. Hold on, fella. Your dad jeans are back, but shirts? They’ve been a changin’. Remember those blousy solid shirts you wore for years and years? Remember the big collars and double buttons at the top? Remember? Of course you remember. They are still hanging in the closet waiting for the early 2000s to return. They aren’t returning. While many things have become retro as of late, the dress shirt and the casual shirt have gone modern. The opportunity to revise your wardrobe begins here. Embrace change! ‘Tis the season. Collars have become smaller. The cut is slimmer. Armholes are

narrower — even the sleeves. Cuffs have become notched, and now sometimes have two stacked buttons. Fabrics often offer some stretch. The trimmer fit looks better on everyone. We are not talking slimfit and too tight, just less billowing and fabric. You know, it actually was such a waste! Dress shirts offer a myriad of collar selections. Your choice depends on the width of your tie and the lapel width of your sport jacket or suit. The real change is in the fabrics offered. Mini basketweaves, micro prints, modern gingham, multi checks, dot patterns, micro chevrons, and fine stripes absolutely enliven your business attire. Since the patterns are often so subtle, they go with most any tie pattern and modernize your entire ensemble.

theSHIRT

Photos courtesy of Eton

Photos courtesy of Eton

CASUAL COOL The most notable changes have occurred in casual shirts. Multi-pattern is a very hot trend that continues. This involves a contrasting but complementary fabric inside the collar and cuff. It can be subtle or it can be showy, but it is definitely fashionable and current. It is so popular that even dress shirts are utilizing the effect and making the cross-over into casual as you slip off the tie and slip into the night. So there you have it. Don’t wait for your sloppy shirts to come back into vogue. Rock the modern fit, fabrics, and look! It will be a welcome change.


b y R I C K P E R R Ydropout millionaires

In general, high school dropouts face huge disadvantages

in today’s society. Statistically, they earn less and have much

higher unemployment rates. But occasionally someone beats

the odds and succeeds beyond all expectations. Even ignoring

the athletes and entertainers who achieved success despite

their lack of a high school diploma, you can find some truly

brilliant individuals who worked hard and made fortunes.

THOMAS EDISON (1847-1931)

Given his credentials as a household name, you might be

surprised to learn that Thomas Edison had less than three months

of formal education. Despite this, he went on to become one of the

country’s most famous inventors and businessmen. At the time of

his death, Edison owned over a thousand patents and left an estate

worth approximately $12 million.

WALT DISNEY (1901-1966)

A familiar figure, Disney dropped out of school at sixteen,

but went on to create Mickey Mouse and the Magic Kingdom,

leaving behind a legacy worth billions. The winner of 22

Academy Awards, as well, Disney was a rare combination of

creative genius and astute businessman.

DAVE THOMAS (1932-2002)

A high school dropout

who later completed a GED,

Thomas founded Wendy’s, a

fast food chain, and promoted

the restaurant by starring in

over 800 TV commercials.

With more than 6,000

Wendy’s operating across

the country, Thomas made

millions.

HIGH SCHOOL

DROPOUTS


PETER JENNINGS (1938-2005)

A high school dropout from Canada, Jennings became one of

the country’s top journalists and the ABC news anchor from 1983

until his death. Along with his popularity, Jennings was also one

of the top paid newsmen of his time, setting a standard for future

anchors of the nightly news.

VIDAL SASSOON (1928-2012)

After dropping out of school at fourteen, Sassoon became a

hairdresser, businessman, and founder of a chain of hairstyling

salons worth millions. Products bearing his name continue to

sell across the country and in many parts of the world.

DAVID MURDOCK (1923- )

A ninth grade dropout, Murdock took over a failing

Hawaiian business and turned it into the highly successful

pineapple and banana producer Dole. He once owned 98% of

Lana’i, the sixth largest island in Hawaii.


SIMON COWELL (1959- )

Best known for his role in developing the television

show American Idol, Cowell dropped out at age sixteen

and eventually broke into the music business in England.

As a talent scout, judge, producer, and mentor, Cowell

quickly made millions.

DAVID KARP (1986- )

One of the newest additions to this list, Karp is the founder and CEO

of Tumblr, which is worth an estimated $800 million. The son of a high

school science teacher, Karp became a dropout at fifteen. While being

homeschooled, Karp began writing software and eventually opened his own

company in 2006. A year later, he launched Tumblr, which was recently

acquired by Yahoo for $1.1 billion with Karp retaining his position as CEO.

RICHARD BRANSON (1950- )

A dropout at sixteen, Branson became a businessman,

investor, and founder of Virgin Records, which evolved

into the Virgin Group, which now comprises more than

400 companies worth billions. The flamboyant Branson

was supposedly told by his headmaster that he would

either end up in prison or a millionaire. Good prediction!

T h e C o m f o r t – “ E Z E ” C o m m u t e r

b y S T E V E C H A L M E R Sluxury on the sea

For a cycling-obsessed owner and his racing team, Areti’s

spas, gyms, and luxury cabins aren’t there just for the glitz

and glamour; every wellness feature on board this 85-meter

superyacht plays a critical part in the recovery process.

tanding open-mouthed on Areti’s lower deck spa, we’re trying to comprehend the various steam rooms,

saunas, steam baths, massage rooms (with ice machines for ice packs), wet lounges, and ice-cold drop baths

spread out before us. We’re here in Monaco to spend the day on board the 85-meter Lürssen, and as the

German shipyard built her in complete secrecy, it’s only now that we’re beginning to learn about Areti’s owner,

his passion for bicycles, and his extremely well catered for pro cycle team. Immediately, we get the feeling that

Areti is not going to be a normal superyacht.

TEAMLUXE

S


THE SPA The entire aft section of Areti’s lower deck

is dedicated to muscle recovery. The owner,

a proven cycle champion, often brings

his entire team back from a ride to take

advantage of his superyacht’s comprehensive

wellness facilities and its team of dedicated

therapists.

Although it features a hair salon and is

beautifully finished by Serbian mosaic artist

Andjelka Radojevic, the spa is very much the

domain of the gristle-calved racers. It does

have its therapeutic luxuries though, such

as a full banya experience, with traditional

birch, eucalyptus branches, timber knives,

and cooling felt hats. Also, the spa’s

showers, with their light, sound, and aroma

settings can simulate a Niagara waterfall or

a Caribbean storm, which doesn’t exactly

sound like a hard time. To finish off, there’s

a heated marble massage table and a Vichy

shower, which we’re sure, go a ways in

easing the pain of an Alpe d’Heuz ascent.

GUEST ACCOMMODATION Areti’s entire build was impacted by

the owner’s requirement of having to

accommodate his family, friends, and racing

team. With up to 20 riders in the squad, it

was essential that everyone have a place to

sleep, but in shipbuilding terms, it’s not as

simple as adding a bed here and there. For

safety reasons, superyachts have their own

build codes, and the more guests you wish to

accommodate, the more stringent the rules.

And so Areti, with her 10 guest cabins, was

built to the rigorous Passenger Yacht Code at

an undisclosed extra expense. Escape routes

were built into her hull, with fireproofing

being a major issue. Quite incredibly, most

of the wood on board Areti consists of thin,

metal-backed veneers, with many panels and

fittings, such as the stairwell handrails, being

made out of non-combustible epoxy and

then painted to look like wood. We’ve tried,

and you really can’t tell what’s real timber

and what’s faux.p h o t o g r a p h y b y T O M V A N O O S S A N E N & K L A U S J O R D A N



The lower deck guest cabins are accessed from

a fire corridor leading from the spa and are all

identical, apart from a subtle color scheme variations

running through the cushions, curtains, and soft

furnishings of each. Here, the queen-sized beds

can be converted into twins to house the riders by

sliding the bed sections apart and placing a console

in the gap. Simple, effective, and it stops the staff

from having to sleep on the sofa.

A central staircase and elevator lead up to the

main deck, where we head aft into the main salon.

Courtesy of the 15-meter beam, there is considerable

space for the racing team to come and enjoy Areti’s

sumptuous luxuries. The lounge is separated from

the 16-guest dining table by a credenza, featuring a

bronze sculpture of a peloton, with a wine cabinet

stocked with some top class tipples to port.

Just to emphasize the relaxed nature of this yacht, even the portside walnut Steinway Boston piano can play itself — no need to even lift a finger.


OWNER’S DECK So far, virtually every part of Areti that we’ve visited has been

created for the recovery and enjoyment of guests. It’s somehow fitting,

then, that the owner has a deck all to himself and his family. Even

here, though, his aft lounge is meant for sharing. To port we have a

well-stocked bar and an adjustable game table that can seat up to six

players. To starboard there’s a cinema area, featuring an enormous

flat-screen TV, which when not in use is hidden behind a sailing scape,

itself a commissioned piece created by artist Alexander Creswell.

The owner’s suite is forward and, at his request, will remain

private. Also very much hidden away is the owner’s foredeck lounge.

This area features a Jacuzzi and various sofas, which are hidden from

prying eyes. The lounge also backs on to the helipad allowing the

owner to depart directly from his suite.

BRIDGE DECK Just when you thought it was safe to slide on your slippers and

walk around with a glass of Boneshaker Zinfandel 2013, the bridge

deck gym reminds you that the owner is still an accomplished

athlete. Here the large gym features elliptical cross trainers, wellness

balls, weights, and bespoke yoga equipment. And if all that is a bit

too much for the nervous system, then the aft 12-person Jacuzzi is

the place to head.

SUN DECK Areti’s only true place of complete relaxation is the sun deck. Here, there’s nothing to

interfere with your pursuit of vitamin D, just sunpads, sunloungers, sofas, and bar stools.

A sleek windscreen pushes the airflow over your head during navigation, making the sun

deck one of the most popular areas to enjoy the oceanic panoramas while making way.

Lürssen’s Areti is an extraordinary yacht on many levels. Built by a humble

and passionate owner to accommodate his friends and family, she comes across

as homely, inviting, and unpretentious. It is perhaps the owner’s dedication to

his racing team, though, that really

sets Areti apart, with her spa alone

affirming her position as one of the

most specialist superyachts on the

water. Some superyacht owners

follow golf courses others follow

the sun. With Areti however, you

will never be far away from a steep

climb, a fast descent, or a twisting

country road.

luxury on the sea

S A R T O R EM A D E I N I T A LY


The annual calendar has become the star of the calendar watches,

poised between the complete calendar (which needs adjustment

every month) and the mighty perpetual calendar (which needs

adjustment once a century). Most watches that contain a calendar

function require adjustment to ensure the correct date is displayed

because the way we have organized time involves leap years and an

irregular number of days per month. Watchmakers have developed

complications to track our calendars more accurately so that, in some

cases, the date doesn’t have to be adjusted every month, nor the leap

year every year. Here are the types of calendar watches available and

a look at some of this year’s new annual calendars.

A monthly calendar has a date display. A day/date has a date

and day of the week display. A full or complete calendar adds a

month display. All three of these types of calendar watches must be

corrected manually in every month with less than 31 days.

An annual calendar complication is a calendar displaying date

and month (and sometimes day) with minimal adjustment. The

complication automatically adjusts the date displayed on the

timepiece based on 30 and 31-day months to ensure that the correct

date is always displayed. This complication requires setting the date

only once per year, at the end of February. The annual calendar is a

fairly recent development in watchmaking, not appearing until 1996,

when Patek Philippe introduced the Ref. 5025.

The perpetual calendar complication also displays the day, date

and month, but it requires even less adjustment than an annual

calendar. This complication not only knows the number of days in

each month, it also knows what year it is so and will automatically

adjust for a leap year, so there is no need to set it every year. The next

time a perpetual calendar will have to be adjusted is in the year 2100.

b y C A R O L B E S L E Rtime zone

ROLEX SKY-DWELLER

The Rolex Sky-Dweller is an annual calendar and dual time

zone watch with an unusual display. It has a cutaway dial with

small rectangular apertures at each hour to indicate the month

(in red): January is represented by 1 o’clock, February by 2

o’clock, and so on. The date is connected to the local time,

which is displayed via the center hands. The red arrow on the

dial just under the 12 o’clock position points to a 24-hour

number on the off-centered rotating disk below, which is the

home time. All can be adjusted with a bezel-operated control

ring that Rolex calls Ring Command. It contains the 9001,

Rolex’s most complex caliber, which boasts seven patents.

CALENDARANNUAL

WATCHESGETTING THE

DATE STRAIGHT

ROTONDE DE CARTIER ANNUAL CALENDAR

The Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar was

slimmed down to 40 mm compared to the previous

45 mm a couple of years ago. The display shows the

days of the week featured prominently in windows

along the inner bezel. A horizontal red marker appears

in the window to indicate the correct day. Months

appear, three at a time, in a window just above the

numeral ring at 6 o’clock. The large, two-digit date

window, at 12 o’clock, remains a prominent feature

of this useful, legible watch. It contains the Caliber

MC 9908, built on the base caliber 1904 MC. It is

water resistant to 30 meters.

LONGINES MASTER ANNUAL CALENDAR

We know this is an annual calendar because it tells us so on

the dial. Otherwise, the straightforward, classic month and day

windows have no other functions or decorations to compete with

for your attention (contrast this with the Richard Mille RM60-01).

The styling is as classic as the indicators, with a barleycorn pattern

that is as elegant as guilloché, and stylized Arabic numerals — Roman

numerals are also an option. It contains the Caliber L897.2, which is

based on the ETA A31.L81. The 40 mm case is stainless steel, and it

is water resistant to 30 meters.

PATEK PHILIPPE REFERENCE 5205G-013

In a sea of blue dials, this one stands out. The deep blue-to-black gradient dial is

a new look for Patek’s 5205 annual calendar, and it seems designed to capture

a younger audience or appeal to lovers of high-level horology looking for

something more casual for the summer without dropping their standards.

The moon phase adds a decorative touch that makes it even more casual,

as does the atypical arrangement of day, date, and month in dedicated

windows, rather than subdials (like the Ref. 5146), which Patek reserves

for its grand complications, including its perpetual calendars. This

reference replaces the previous white gold models, with two-toned

black and grey dials, which are discontinued this year. It contains

the Caliber 324 S QA LU, a version of Patek’s original annual

calendar, patented in 1996.


CALENDAR


checking up

Photo courtesy of Alpetora

Vintage checks have been trending heavily for women since last year. For autumn ’18, they are now appearing on everything from men’s trousers to jackets and even caps. Men are stealing from women...again. Old news in the world of fashion. Try starting out with one statement checked garment, such as a coat or blazer. Feeling bold? Double down with a blazer and trouser in contrasting checks.

PLAIDnewswe’ve got some


Photo courtesy of Faherty

Photo courtesy of Alberto





Photo courtesy of Alpetora

ELEGANT COUNTRY Checks of variable geometry run from Scottish clan tartan fit for the neo-aristocracy to preppy accents to woodcutter plaids. The choice is yours. Those into haute couture can even mix and match your plaids and checks.

MODERN COOL Tartan, windowpane, Madras, Prince of Wales, tattersall, and plaid patterns are officially hip. Heritage plaid is getting super haute. Let rockabilly-style embrace the casual rebel in you. Try a checked jacket or rock the plaid shirt.



RED ROCK

b y J . A . Y O U N Grest & relaxation


RETREAT Sedona, Arizona, is famous for its natural energy and enchanting atmosphere. The majestic ancient

red rock formations have lured visitors from around the world to experience its magnificent vistas and

healing climate. The town is also famous for its art galleries and New Age practitioners, who believe

that Sedona is one of the earth’s energy centers. Distinctively picturesque and potentially mystical,

Sedona is the ideal place for some of the most revered spas in North America.

THE FABULOUS SPAS OF SEDONA, ARIZONA


MII AMO SPA

One of Sedona’s most famous destination spas, Mii Amo is situated within the

town’s famed red rocks. Its luxury accommodations and café have made this

spa one of the best in the world. The spa specializes in various treatments and

fitness. Treatments include massage, skin care, aqua work, and much more.

There is even a treatment program that focuses on pregnancy. The spa’s fitness

activities include aerobics and dance. The spa also offers cooking and art classes

in a sumptuous environment filled with every comfort.

MANY PEOPLE COME TO ENJOY THE ADVENTURE

OF SEDONA, BUT JUST AS MANY COME TO

VACATION AND RELAX.

SEDONA ROUGE HOTEL & SPA

The Sedona Rouge Hotel & Spa is adept

at the art of relaxation. While the resort’s

accommodations are luxuriously comfortable,

the spa is famed for its healing therapies that

cater to overall wellbeing. The spa’s massage

therapists specialize in reflexology, myofascial

release, massage, and Ayurvedic services. The

spa offers various packages and customized

programs. Guests are encouraged to work

with a spa coordinator to design a spa stay that

provides a soothing and healing experience

unlike any other.


rest & relaxation

SEDONA NEW DAY SPA

The Sedona New Day Spa is an elegant retreat where visitors come

to enjoy massage, facials, body treatments, nail care, and more.

Its healing products are eco-friendly, and the staff is licensed to

provide the pampering and services clients love. The spa offers

various packages, but visitors can tailor their spa experience to

their own needs. A morning visit to the spa is a great way to begin

a day of shopping in Sedona.

L’AUBERGE DE SEDONA

A luxury resort, L’Auberge offers a world-class spa experience in an enchanting setting. This

boutique spa is known for its personalized treatments and signature services. Guests enjoy yoga,

reiki, hiking, massage, and other restorative treatments that may lead to both physical and mental

rejuvenation. Private cottages are available at this extraordinary spa and resort.

SEDONA IS KNOWN FOR ITS BEAUTY AND SERENITY. IT IS THE IDEAL PLACE TO ENJOY A SPA STAY. THESE

VENUES OFFER HEALING TREATMENTS IN RELAXING ATMOSPHERES. EACH HAS ITS OWN UNIQUE COLLECTION OF

PHILOSOPHIES AND AMENETIES, BUT ALL ARE RENOWNED FOR THEIR HIGH LEVEL OF SERVICE.

#JVFALLSTYLE | JACKVICTOR.COM

TAILORED IN MONTREAL


Does it feel like world is slowly (or sometimes quickly) getting more and more divided? I swear, so often lately it’s as if someone has put anger on autopilot with the gas pedal down. Standing up for your beliefs is an important thing; it drives change for the better. But maybe we’ve lost a bit of balance. A lot of people seem to be embracing righteous indignation, but maybe we need at least as many people willing to balance that force with gentle kindness. Maybe we can change the world without destroying ourselves in the process. Why not make a point to do something unexpected and kind every day? It’s sometimes shocking how big of an impact such a small act can have on someone. And you may be surprised at how good it makes you feel too. It doesn’t have to be some grand gesture. The simple acts are often make the biggest difference.

PAY A COMPLIMENT One of the nicest things you can do for people is offer accolades. Whether you applaud how well they handled a difficult situation or admire their new hairstyle, paying a compliment can make someone’s day. And nothing could be easier than giving a short expression of praise.

OFFER ASSISTANCE Just look around and you’re sure to see someone who could use some help. There are many ways to assist others, from holding open a door to carrying heavy packages or groceries. Find an opportunity to extend a helping hand and make life a little easier for someone.

SHARE A MEAL Good food can make anyone happy, especially when it comes from the heart. Invite someone over who doesn’t get home-cooked meals or make a meal for someone in need. It’s a simple effort that won’t go unnoticed, and you’ll enjoy the satisfaction of preparing and sharing the food.

MAKE CONTACT Reaching out to someone you know may sound unnecessary, especially if you don’t have a reason, but this simple gesture can be a blessing. Personal contact, whether in the flesh or by phone, boosts mood, instills confidence in others, and contributes to overall well-being.

GIVE A GIFT You don’t have to spend a lot of money to give a worthy gift. Sometimes the best gifts are those that cost little but have significant meaning, like a thoughtful card or a small token of love. A donation to an important cause is another meaningful way to show kindness.

DO A FAVOR “Do me a favor” may sound commonplace, but it’s a simple act of kindness that never loses value. Help a neighbor fix his car, babysit a friend’s child for a few hours, or run an errand for someone in need. The best part? Doing favors gets others inspired to do them too, and the kindness spreads.

MAKE AN INTRODUCTION Introducing people who don’t know each other but could profit from a new friendship or business partnership is an easy thing to do that pays off for everyone. They’ll benefit from their relationship, and you’ll gain pleasure from helping bring them together.

SHOW EMPATHY The ability to feel what another person is feeling is a gift. If you’ve got it, use it. Showing empathy to someone who has experienced a loss, gone through a difficult change, or endured physical pain can be highly comforting to the sufferer — and rewarding for you.

LOAN A POSSESSION Know someone who could use something of yours? Don’t be afraid to part with it temporarily. Loaning a possession — from something as small as a tool or book to a weekend at your vacation home — can be easier than you think, especially when you see the impact you’ve made.

GIVE UP THE SPOTLIGHT While the spotlight may be gratifying, sometimes it’s more important to let another person take center stage. During your everyday routine, let someone else talk, be first in line, or get the credit for a job well done. You’ve got nothing to lose, except your chance to do something nice.

b y S U S I E Y A K O W I C Zsimple solutions

KINDCONTAGIOUSLY

Try these ten ideas and see how simple it is — and how good it feels — to do change the world.

KIND

Experience the perfect fit and style

selection of our Coppley Custom

Clothing Program and receive your

custom suit or sport jacket in just

two weeks!

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