5 - news 2004

SlowFoodMasterItalianCookingNews,no.1,yearIII,Giugno2004

SCHOOL OF ITALIAN REGIONAL COOKING

Jesi • Italy

•S low Food

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Energia. Piacere. Respira.

Benessere. Immagina di

andare oltre. Oltre

l'efficienza. Oltre il design.

Elica Collection. Concave.

Perché non è una cappa

da cucina. È un'altra vita.

Una vita in cui la qualità

è essenziale proprio come

l'aria. Ed è tutto più puro,

più armonioso, più

perfetto. Anche le emozioni. SEGNO D’ARIA

w w w . e l i c a . c o m n u m e r o v e r d e 8 0 0 . 2 3 . 1 1 . 2 2

La Nuova Agenzia di Michael Göttsche.

contents

Educate the palate? Yes, and the head, too.Gianfranco Mancini 2

Work in the kitchen 4

Two of our students share their impressions 6

La burrata 8

Sagrantino di Montefalco Wine and the Caprai Estates 10

Taste of Italy: Lake Trasimeno Bean 12

General Program 13

Weekly Work Plan 16

Regional dishes: Traditional Canederli in broth 20

The Triunph of Herbs 22

Learning continues in every region of Italy 24

Diploma night 26

Plunge into an ocean of chocolate 28

To Convivium Leaders 30

A different breed of cattle 32

Cover: Natura morta con pesci, cipolle novelle, sporta con rape esporta piccola con pesciSebastiano Ceccarini (Fano, 1703-1783)

1

Master Italian Cooking NewsMAGAZINE OF THE ISTITUTO SUPERIORE DI GASTRONOMIA

Editorial DirectorGianfranco Mancini

Editorial StaffPaolo Bellini, Stefania Cavallini,Cingolani Alessio, Concas Angelo,Anna Maria D’Eusanio, Alberto Fabbri, Armando Gambera, Carlo Gazzarrini,Marisa Gigliotti, Piergiorgio Oliveti,Francesco Pensovecchio, Federico Piemonte, Pasquale Porcelli,Vito Puglia, Gilberto Venturini.

Editorial Co-ordinationArduino Tassi

TranslationsMartha Huber Scavone

Graphics and page layoutGEI Gruppo Editoriale InformazioneElisabetta Carletti

PrintingArti Grafiche Jesine - Jesi

Advertising and administrationAssociazione Ital. Cook.via F. Conti n. 5 – 60035 JESI (AN) ItalyTel. ++39.0731.56400 Fax ++39.0731.221224Web: www.italcook.it E.mail: info@italcook.it

Recorded in the Tribunal of Ancona no. 433/02, 22.02.2002Editor-in-chief: Dino Mogianesi

ASSOCIAZIONE ITAL.COOK.Founded by Slow Food and the Town Council of Jesi

Board of DirectorsNicola Silveri, Giovanni Mancia, Simona Romagnoli.

Reviser BoardGiuliano Cerioni, Sergio Moretti, Sabrina Rotatori.

3

Every time we talk about foodwe should remember thatmankind is divided into two partsin this world.We are on one side, part of therich and even opulent society forwhom the approach to food isalmost a philosophic exercise intaste and in some cases, an aes-thetic gesture. On the other sidethere are those who make upbetter than half the world popula-tion and who wake up eachmorning not knowing if they willfind enough food to eat that day.We like to talk about taste and itis a good thing that we go torestaurants, that we learn fromfamous chefs, that we perfectour sensorial capabilities but wemust never forget that other halfof the world. We must not forgetthat the future of food will alsodepend on systems of produc-tion that will be adapted to orperhaps imposed on the lessdeveloped countries.We say this from the standpointof people working in a school ofItalian cooking, very much partof that world where the problemis no longer hunger but rather,obesity and over-eating. This isbecoming a topic of debatewhich concerns governmentsand health authorities, and bothare working to combat this issue. There is no denying

it, we eat too much and, almostalways, eat poorly!So then people open gyms andfitness centers and we all run toslim down our bellies and hipsand tone our muscles, trying tokeep our body shape within thelimits of decency. And what aboutdiets? Doctors and dieticians alsotry to carve out a piece of theaction for themselves by promot-ing a diet and open specializedcenters and make money.The food industry presents anoth-er facet, ever more controlled bya handful of players monopoly-style, guaranteeing sales andincome by using publicity to bom-bard children and adults, familiesand entire populations, withoutany limit whatsoever, either of lawor common sense. When youtake a close look, it isn’t a prettypicture and the world seemsdecidedly askew.Within our Slow Food Movementwe had started, a few year back,to define this state of affairs as acondition of “The Flood” in thebiblical sense. An exaggeration? I do not think so. And this School,our Master Italian Cooking, aims

to provide answers to those whohave come to the bitter aware-ness that the future of food couldhold unpleasant surprises foreveryone.Italy has the good fortune ofbeing in an excellent geographicposition and of having excep-tionally good natural products,rich in taste and widely varied inflavour. On this natural inheri-tance an enviable gastronomicwealth and great tradition hasbeen built over the centuries.The Master’s candidates, nomatter where they come from,are immediately aware of thisdifference and gradually, almostunconsciously, they immersethemselves in an ocean of ever-changing taste sensations.Week after week they discoverthat behind every regional tradi-tion there lies the reality ofherbs, fruit, condiments,cheeses, meats and salumi thatare truly unique.And yet, while we work at thestove and as we sample anddiscuss different tastes we can-not and must not forget theworld we are in, where we camefrom and where we are going.Educating the palate is fine, butwe must also use our head.

2

Educate the palate?

Yes, and the head, too

The DirectorGianfranco Mancini

School of Italian Regional Cooking

Palazzo Balleani • Jesi • Italia

Aromatic herbs: here lies the

future of food culture and the

future, in many respects, is a

return to the past. Fewer fats,

fewer meats, less protein in our

diet. And flavour is added with

aromatic herbs: the most intense

aromas already exist in nature.

How lucky the chef who knows

how to use aromatic herbs!

Content comes before form.

Goodness and freshness of

the ingredients come first and

foremost.

Then the chef will call on his sen-

sitivity to create an eye-pleasing

form to delight the diner.

5

Ifyou were little gnats and

could hover around a chef

during a day’s work in the kit-

chen, you would understand how

he moves, how he thinks and

how he uses his senses.

A little (bit) of a philosopher and a

little artist, the best chef brings

complexity into harmony and

exalts simplicity.

Thetime for work in the kit-

chen is the most

important part of a lesson.

A chef’s thoughts are always run-

ning along the lines of concrete

experience, of which ingredients

to use, of the dish that is coming

into being.

In the kitchen, aromas and tastes

are not abstract concepts, but

rather concrete elements that

belong to the food that is on the

plate.

Making pasta is an art. Each

region in Italy has different

kinds of pasta. Water and flour

alone? Or should we also add

egg? Do you want to use a small

torque like they do in Veneto or a

chitarra like they do in Abruzzo?

4

Work inthe kitchen

open to teaching us and preparing

it with us.

I am looking forward to the next

weeks and I know a busy time

awaits us as many of the week-

ends are also full, spent outside

of Jesi, visiting producers in other

areas (oil mills, wineries, dairies,

etc.).

Joao Bellini

30 years old, from

Brasil

I have worked in hotels and

restaurants for five years and

have also taught at three univer-

sities in my country.

I decided to apply to the School

of Italian Cooking in Jesi for

several reasons: specifically to

get to know regional Italian

cooking, learn new techniques

and become familiar with the

Slow Food philosophy so as to

apply it in Brasil.

By now we are better than

halfway through the course and

my experience has been very

gratifying.

Seeing that this School bases its

teaching on regional products

that always arrive fresh, on chefs

that come from the different

regions each week, bringing

their typical specialties with

them, is already a lesson in itself.

Another important aspect, and

here they all insist on this, is

respect for the seasonality of the

products.

These are essential principles for

someone who wants to work in a

kitchen, people often talk about

these things, but one must live by

and practice these rules to fully

understand how it can change

our thinking.

The weeks go by quickly but the

impressions of Puglia, Campania

and Emilia Romagna are well-

engrained in my memory and

part of the reason is that the

chefs spend time with us, live

with us and often impart lessons

in life as well as cooking.

As soon as we have completed

the Master, I hope to deepen my

knowledge of some aspects of

regional cooking; I will remain in

Italy for several more months and

I am particularly interested in

anything that concerns fish.

I am looking forward to the time

when I’ll return to my country with

the hope of being able to transmit

this experience to others and

share the tastes of these dishes

with my clients.

7

Stevin Van Laatum

41 years old, from

Holland

I’ve been working in this field for

twenty-four years and for the last

five years, have been particularly

interested in Italian cooking.

I’ve been a member of the

International Slow Food

Movement since 1998 and in

2000 I first heard about the

School of Italian Cooking at the

Salone del Gusto event in Turin.

I would have liked to sign up

immediately, but unfortunately I

couldn’t leave my work commit-

ments and so I had to wait four

more years.

Now I am finally here and this is

first time that I’m actually enjoy-

ing studying and going to school!

I hope to learn as much as pos-

sible regarding the “how” and

“why” of Italian food culture. After

just a few weeks, I can say that it

is much more than I expected.

The chefs change continually as

they all come from the specific

region being taught and they are

all very knowledgeable. In addi-

tion, the staff working inside the

school help us much more than

what would be normal.

The program is rich and varied,

very stimulating and presented in

such a way as to allow us to gain a

deep understanding. Often we get

to know particular products, practi-

cally unknown elsewhere, with dis-

tinguishing tastes, that Slow Food

has worked to safeguard through

the institution of “Presidia”. Also, if

one of us is especially interested in

a certain dish the chefs are very

6

AAAA –––– IIIINNNNTTTTEEEENNNNSSSSIIIIVVVVEEEE CCCCOOOOUUUURRRRSSSSEEEE

(before the Master’s Course)

- Minimum duration: 1 month

- 3 hours per day (2 hours in the

morning/1 hour in the afternoon)

- 15 hours per week, Monday through

Friday only

- Ital.Cook makes available an

apartment with kitchen priviledges,

food not included

- Cost: € 1.200,00 per person

BBBB –––– RRRREEEEGGGGUUUULLLLAAAARRRR CCCCOOOOUUUURRRRSSSSEEEE

(during the Master’s Course)

- Duration: 1 month or more

- 3 hours per week

- 1 hour per day, from 7 to 8 p.m.,

Monday through Friday.

- Cost: € 300,00 per month, per person.

Courses held at The British Centre

Italian language coursesfor Ital.Cook. students

Two of our students

share their impressions

Of the lovely array of cheeses,

perhaps the most representative

is the Cacioricotta, bearing simi-

larities to both ricotta and to

goat’s milk cheese. Also worthy

of mention are the Canestrato,

Caciocavallo podalico, Fiordilatte

and Scamorza.

Whether fresh or aged, made

from raw milk or pasteurized,

from cow’s milk or sheep’s milk,

the variety of cheeses and dairy

products coming from both small

artisanal dairies or large industri-

al plants is seemingly endless in

this generous land.

La Burrata is a typical specialty

of Puglia, born of a simple but

brilliant idea.

About seventy years ago on a

farm in the area near Castel del

Monte, Lorenzo Chieppa created

a sort of flask made from string

mozzarella-like cheese and he

filled it with creamy whey and

strings of milky mozzarella (the

“stracciatella” – “shreds”).

Once this mouth-watering combi-

nation was prepared, the sack-

like flask was tied securely shut

and immersed, first in scalding hot

water and then in cold running

water to make it become firm.

Today as in the past, the tech-

nique remains unchanged. The

process is completed with a brief

soaking in a salt brine and then

the last phase allows for the

excess moisture to drip off. At

this point, the burrata is ready to

eat. Traditionally, it is wrapped in

asphodel leaves.

Although this product is made

throughout the entire province of

Bari, the quality of the burratafrom Andria is generally recogni-

zed as unequivocally superior.

8

Ace t o ba l s am ico t r ad i z i ona l e

d i Regg i o Emi l i a

Denominazione di Origine Protetta

GARANTITO DAL MINISTERO DELLE POLITICHE AGRICOLE E FORESTALI

AI SENSI DELL’ ARTICOLO 10 DEL REG. CEE 2081/92

Prodotto disciplinato dal D.M. 3/3/1987 e da Regolamento della Comunità Europea

n°813 / 2000 del 17/4/2000 che sanciscono tra l’ altro :

“ …Si ottiene tramite la fermentazione zuccherina e acetica di mosto cotto, previo ottimale invecchiamentoin ogni caso NON INFERIORE a 12 ANNI”

..” E’ consentito utilizzare la qualifica EXTRA VECCHIO nella presentazione del prodottoche abbia avuto un invecchiamento NON INFERIORE AI 25 ANNI”

•Per informazioni telefonare a:

Consorzio fra produttori

di Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia

tel e fax 0039 / 0522/ 796294

www.acetobalsamicotradizionale.it

e-mail abtre@re.camcom.it

P U G L I A

La burrataPaolo Costantini

Puglia is a region which could be defined, in

terms of nature’s bounty, as astronomically

rich, its wealth comprised of fish, vegetables, olive

oil, wine. And cheese.

managerial style would place it

among Italy’s best in just a few

years.

“It’s close to Perugia... It’s near

Torgiano... We make red wines...

We have a grape called

Sagrantino... Not just sweet

wines…”. In the late Eighties it

was an arduous task to explain to

the world where Montefalco was

and convince people of the

potential the area held. And yet,

just over twenty years of age,

Marco Caprai did just that, with

incredible grit and determination.

From day one, Marco started

working on an experimentation

and research program, having

very definite goals in mind. His

objective was to produce a great

wine that would be the very

expression of the Montefalco

area using the Sagrantino, the

vine that would symbolize this

territory because it is found only

here. He began then, continuing

to this day, to collaborate with

oenologist Attilio Pagli and with

Prof. Valenti from the University

of Milano.

Starting in 1991 the Caprai

Estates undertook a major task

of huge proportions for technolo-

gical modernization, expansion,

experimentation, buying new

vineyards, studying old and new

clones, zoning. Research is

ongoing to find the best growing

methods, the best clones, the

most appropriate fermentations,

the right kinds of wood and the

perfect ageing.

Following a parallel path, the

quality of the wine steadily

increased and in 1996, to cele-

brate the winery’s first Jubilee,

the 1993 Selection of MontefalcoSagrantino 25 Anni was bottled

and it immediately won the

“Three Glasses” classification for

the Wine Guide Vini d’Italia.

Thus, a legend was born and a

label sanctioned.

Pure power, along with elegance,

clean fruitiness and phenomenal

ageing potential – these were the

features of this wine, characteris-

tics destined to repeat them-

selves harvest after harvest. The

consistently high quality of each

year the 25 Anni was produced

has given it an enviable position

among many of the most famous

Italian wines. Looking at the

years 1993, 1995 or the recent

2000 which were all particularly

good in terms of climate, we can

define those wines as nothing

less than sensational.

The “Collepiano”, with the same

denomination, is a beautiful wine

also, barely inferior to the

Selection, whereas the Passito,

sold in 375ml bottles, is a wine

that deftly combines the force

and the richness of the grape

with a concentration and sophi-

stication which puts it, without a

doubt, in the well-deserved cate-

gory of “meditation wine”.

The Caprai holding has grown to

a 150-hectare estate, 90 of which

are vineyards. All of the newly

planted portions have a density

of 8,000 vines per hectare which,

as historical texts will verify, is the

same density as that prevalent in

the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.

Similarly, the use of “small

woods” is true to the tradition in

the area which dates back to the

1500’s, when wine was put into

“barriques” or small wooden

casks called carrate from the

word carro, so called because

they were small enough to be

transported on carts. The winery

uses medium-toasted French

barriques; for the 25 Anni 85%

new barriques are used and for

the Collepiano it is 60%.

The primary grape varieties culti-

vated are Sagrantino,

Sangiovese, Merlot and

Cabernet Sauvignon for the reds

and Grechetto and Chardonnay

Sauvignon for the whites.

In the field of communications,

the Web has also been an area

where the Caprai Estates have

invested considerable time and

effort.

Their site, www.arnaldocaprai.it

is diligently kept up-to-date with

all the most current news regar-

ding the winery, its wines and up-

coming events. In addition, the

wine “Nero Outsider”, made from

Pinot Noir grapes, has been the

first example in Italy of a wine

sold exclusively via Internet.

11

The Grapevine, the Wine and its

History

The Sagrantino grapevine has

been cultivated in the Montefalco

area ever since Antiquity. Some

believe that it derives from the

Itriola grape, as described by

Pliny the Elder and other theories

abound as to its origins.

However, it can be said with cer-

tainty that the Sagrantino vine is

at least four hundred years old

and in fact, was first mentioned in

a 1598 historical document.

In the past, cultivation was not

widespread and actually, quite

limited because it is a difficult,

low-yield variety. The grape is

small, has a thick skin, and grows

in small bunches. However, it is

rich in color, tannins, acids,

extract and sugars. It is these

very characteristics which made

it a little-used grape in the past.

The powerful phenol content com-

bined with an archaic vinification

process made the wine overly

aggressive and bitter. On the

other hand, its thick skin was sui-

table for prolonged, gradual

drying and therefore, wine-making

allowed for this drying process for

the production of a wine with a

considerable residual sugar con-

tent. The sensation of sweetness

tempered the roughness and bit-

terness of the tannins.

Now, thanks to modern wine-

making techniques, the

Montefalco Sagrantino (or

Sagrantino di Montefalco) is

enjoying a second youth; it is a

DOCG wine produced with 100%

Sagrantino grapes and made the

same way as any other dry red

wine. It is of an intense red, tan-

nic and very powerful, easily

going over 13% alcohol by volu-

me - the perfect accompaniment

to game meats and especially

flavorful dishes.

Very few vineyards and wineries

in Italy can boast a history and

reputation which make the

history of a territory that are

anywhere near comparable to

that of the Caprai-Val di Maggio

in the area of Montefalco.

It was a closely tied connection,

intricately woven in a relatively

brief period of time, which gave

rise to an estate, a wine, a new

denomination of origin.

But just how did it all come

about? In 1971 Arnaldo Caprai,

successful entrepreneur in the

textile industry, decided to pur-

chase 45 hectares of land in the

area of Montefalco, following a

lifetime dream of founding a

wine-growing estate and winery

to produce a top quality wine.

The first years were difficult,

seeing as the name Sagrantino,

which identified both wine and

grapevine, was archaic and

known only locally and thus,

anything but famous. It was still

being grown, yes, but few knew it

well and no grower had been

able to bring it to the attention of

the world of oenology.

It was one of many glorious

names which, although part of

the Italian tradition and history of

wine-making, was practically for-

gotten and the few wineries that

were still making it chose the

route of a sweet wine for tourists

and for the local market.

The turning point came in 1988

when Marco Caprai, Amaldo’s

son, took charge of the winery

and with a modern outlook and

10

Sagrantino di Montefalco Wine

and the Caprai EstatesThe Grapevine, the Wine

and its History

The Wine and the Winery

The present day

Tiny and white, hardly bigger

than a grain of rice, tender and

buttery.

We are talking about a bean, an

extraordinary product, on the list

of Slow Food Presidia.

This little bean grows in certain

areas near towns located on the

shores of Lake Trasimeno, in

Umbria. The cultivar had all but

died out because it hasn’t been

grown since the fifties.

It’s easy to see why the practice

was abandoned as the process

is long and tiresome and must be

done manually, from sowing to

harvesting.

Furthermore, the beans mature

at different rates and therefore

harvesting must be done pro-

gressively.

Imagine what it must be like to

go out each morning and bend

over each plant to pick only the

ripe pods, leaving the others for

another day or week.

And when the beans are hulled,

only a few meagre kilograms are

ever garnered… wouldn’t it be

more worthwhile to grow a bean

with a higher yield that is easier

to grow and harvest?

And yet… a few farmers kept

right on growing this very bean

for their own personal use

because it is so tender and thus,

thanks to Slow Food, it has been

resurrected and is once more in

production (seven to eight hun-

dred kilograms per year!).

If you should be so lucky as to

come across the Trasimeno

Lake bean (a word of caution:

carefully check that it is not just a

similar type) do not miss the

opportunity to purchase it.

The best way to prepare them?

simply boiled and eaten with

very little salt and a spoonful of

extra virgin olive oil.

12 1313

General Program

Course Dates 2005

7 January - 11 March

22 March - 27 May

7 June - 12 August

4 October - 9 December

Course Dates 2006

7 January - 9 March

22 March - 25 May

7 June - 10 August

4 October - 7 December

Lake Trasimeno

Bean

14 15

1 The courses are designed for

chefs working outside Italy who

wish to widen and improve their

knowledge of Italian cuisine. In

particular we are addressing

cooks who have completed their

training and have worked along-

side established chefs for some

time. Our aim is to provide a wide-

ranging frame of reference with

plenty of in-depth detail that will

enable cooks to interpret Italian

cuisine to the highest standards

throughout the world. Those wish-

ing to take this Master's should

thus be familiar with basic culinary

techniques.

2 The courses are held at the

Institute, which is located in

Palazzo Balleani, n. 5 via F. Conti

in Jesi, a city of 40,000 inhabitants

in the central Italian region of the

Marche. Each course lasts for ten

weeks, and those taking part will

all be able to further their experi-

ence by specializing for a few

months or even a year with

restaurants associated with Slow

Food throughout Italy. They will

thus come into direct contact with

restaurateurs specialized in meat

or fish dishes, from North to

South, comprising a whole range

of particular regional specialties.

3 Every week the cuisine of a par-

ticular Region of Italy will be the

object of a special focus, such that

by the end of the course the cooks

will be familiar with Italian cooking

in its foremost regional expres-

sions: from the traditional rural

dishes of Tuscany to the fish

preparations of the Adriatic; from

the cheeses of Piedmont to the

tortellini of Emilia Romagna; from

the vegetable dishes of Puglia to

the sweets of Sicily; from the cui-

sine of the Alpine valleys to that of

the Mediterranean coast. Italy is a

complex mosaic of history and

products, dishes and traditions,

scents and savors. Every "festa"

is indeed a feast, which means a

particular dish and a celebration of

life.

4 One day a week, preferably

Monday, will be devoted to short

single-topic courses with tastings

of wine, olive oil, pasta, cheese

and cured meats selected from

the country's foremost producers.

During their free time, the partici-

pants will have access to the

Institute Library, where they will be

able to do more research on sub-

jects of special interest to them.

5 Lessons will be held all day

on Tuesdays, Wednesdays,

Thursdays and Fridays. Following

a brief historical and geographical

introduction to the Region, its

environmental features and its

food and wine heritage, students

will move on to the preparation of

typical regional dishes. These will

be practical, hands-on lessons

taught by regional specialists

using specific regional ingredients

that will change from week to

week. On some Fridays the

School will open its doors to a

select public, presenting the most

interesting dishes of the week's

endeavor for their evaluation.

6 Saturdays and Sundays will be

devoted to individual study and

getting to know a wide range of

producers and their products.

Some producers will present their

products at the school, where tast-

ing sessions will also be arranged.

Others will welcome chefs to their

premises throughout the country

for weekend visits. Other

weekend activities may

include visiting Italy's art

cities.

7 Each course will be attend-

ed by no more than fifteen

participants, who will also

receive board and lodging in

apartments in the center of

the city, not far from the

School. The cost of the

course, including board,

lodging, work uniforms etc. is

ten thousand euro, plus two

thousand euro registration

fee.

8 At the end of the course all

participants will receive an official

Master's certificate under the

aegis of the Marche Region and

the Italian Ministry of Labor.

15

1 I corsi sono riservati a cuochi

che operano all’estero e vogliono

acquisire una conoscenza

approfondita della cucina italiana.

Ci rivolgiamo in particolare a cuo-

chi che abbiano già terminato il

loro curriculum scolastico o che

abbiano lavorato per qualche

tempo accanto ad altri chef di

cucina. Noi desideriamo dare una

conoscenza ampia e rigorosa,

con metodo organico e preciso a

coloro che desiderano fare cucina

italiana nel mondo in modo pro-

fessionale. Pertanto chi desidera

partecipare al nostro Master deve

già conoscere le fondamentali

tecniche di lavoro in cucina.

2 I corsi si svolgono presso la

sede dell’Istituto in via F. Conti, 5

nel Palazzo Balleani, a Jesi, citta-

dina di 40.000 abitanti, nelle

Marche, nell’Italia Centrale. I corsi

hanno una durata di dieci settima-

ne. Tutti coloro che frequenteran-

no il Master avranno la possibilità

di continuare la loro esperienza

per alcuni mesi o un anno presso

i ristoranti della catena Slow Food

in tutt’Italia, da nord a sud, spe-

cializzandosi sia in carne che

pesce, nelle Regioni che ciascu-

no preferisce.

3 Ogni settimana viene presenta-

ta, studiata ed elaborata la

cucina di una Regione

d’Italia. Alla fine del corso

ogni professionista cono-

scerà la cucina italiana nelle

più elevate espressioni

regionali: dalla cucina tradi-

zionale e contadina della

Toscana al pesce

dell’Adriatico, dai formaggi

del Piemonte ai tortellini

dell’Emilia Romagna, dalle

verdure della Puglia ai dolci

della Sicilia, dalla cucina

delle valli alpine a quella

mediterranea. L’Italia è un

mosaico infinito di storie e di pro-

dotti, di piatti e di tradizione, di

profumi e di sapori in ogni terra.

Da noi per ogni festa c’è un piatto

e per ogni piatto c’è una festa!

4 Un giorno a settimana, di prefe-

renza il lunedì, è dedicato a corsi

brevi, monotematici con degusta-

zione di vino, olio di oliva, pasta,

formaggi, salumi tipici e tradiziona-

li selezionati tra i migliori produtto-

ri di tutto il territorio nazionale.

Nel tempo libero ciascun corsista

avrà la possibilità di approfondire

le proprie conoscenze con studio

individuale presso la biblioteca

dell’Istituto.

5 Le lezioni si terranno nei giorni

di martedì, mercoledì, giovedì e

venerdì, con orario pieno. Dopo

una breve presentazione storico-

geografico della Regione con le

sue tradizioni enogastronomiche

e con le sue particolarità ambien-

tali, si passerà allo studio concre-

to dei piatti tipici del territorio.

L’insegnamento non sarà teorico,

ma principalmente pratico ed indi-

viduale. I docenti e le materie

prime provengono dalle singole

regioni e cambiano ogni settima-

na. A volte, il venerdì sera la

scuola apre le porte alla città e

presenta i piatti più interessanti

della settimana.

6 Il sabato e la domenica sono

riservati allo studio individuale e

alla conoscenza di aziende, pro-

duttori, prodotti tipici nei vari set-

tori alimentari. Alcuni produttori

verranno direttamente presso la

Scuola per presentare i loro pro-

dotti con prova di assaggio, in altri

casi gli chef usciranno sul territo-

rio per conoscere le singole

aziende e i produttori in tutte le

regioni d’Italia. Alcuni fine setti-

mana sono dedicati alla visita

delle città d’arte.

7 Il numero massimo di parteci-

panti è di quindici corsisti, ai quali

si garantisce anche vitto e allog-

gio in appartamenti in palazzi sto-

rici, nel centro della città, a pochi

passi dalla Scuola.

Il costo del corso, compreso vitto

e alloggio, divise di lavoro, è di

diecimila euro, più duemila euro

di iscrizione.

8 Alla fine del corso viene rilascia-

to ufficialmente un Master con il

riconoscimento della Regione

Marche e del Ministero del

Lavoro.

14

Il P

rogra

mm

aT

he

Pro

gra

m

16 17

This is our “tasting laboratory”

and lasts for about an hour.

Transfer to the teaching

kitchen

The Instructor explains the

recipes for the day and

prepares each dish right along

with the Students who follow

the process and also prepare

the dishes themselves. All the

operations are carefully

observed and guided by the

expert Chef.

The work will not be rushed,

but done with precision in the

time required. When the

cooking is finished, the dishes

are taken to the table to be

tasted, checked and

compared.

Collective discussion

The daily teaching program is

reviewed and eventual

variations on the base dish

discussed, proposed or

critiqued. Every day several

base dishes will be studied.

Work ends at 5:30p.m.

Friday evening highlights

At the close of a week’s work

on some Friday evenings the

School is open to a select

public. In the Pergolesi Hall a

dinner-tasting will be offered to

20 to 25 people with a series

of dishes jointly prepared by

teachers and students, each

recipe according to the tradi-

tions of their region of origin.

Top quality prime ingredients

and wines will be used from

the School’s sponsor

companies and those chosen

by Slow Food from among the

best at national level.

SATURDAY& SUNDAY

Saturdays and Sundays are

dedicated to getting to know

the regions and their products

by direct contact with the

producers.

Some weeks the producers will

come to Jesi to present their

companies and products with a

guided tasting session.

At other times the Students will

travel to various Regions and

visit the producers on site.

The work done on the

weekends is very important

because it is the most direct

way for the Students to learn

about the products, how to use

them, where to find them in

their place of origin and how to

introduce them in a future

workplace.

17

MONDAYTHEMED TASTING AT THE

REGIONAL ENOTECA

1. Wine

Getting to know the principalvines and wines of Italy• The vine, the grape, different

vinifications: white, red, rosé -

the production of sparkling

and dessert wines

• Wine tasting: Visual and

Olfactory examination

• Wine tasting: Taste

examination – scoring a wine

• The grapes and wines of

northern and central Italy

• The grapes and wines of

central and southern Italy

• Principles of food and wine

matching

2. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Recognizing excellent products• Understanding the oil-making

process

• Taste-testing for qualities

and defects

• Appreciating oils from various

regions and the islands

3. Cheese

Appreciating Italian cheeses• Cheese-making methods

• Ageing and refining

• Typical regional products

from North to South

4. Charcuterie Products

Discovering regional traditions• Salumi- cooked and raw;

ground paste or whole meat

• Salami and ciauscolo

• Cured pork- coppa, lonza,

lonzino

• Prized cuts- prosciutto,

culatello, fiocco

• Mortadella and bresaola

5. Bread

Working with leavened dough• Different flours and yeasts

• Common, whole wheat and

seasoned varieties

• Breadsticks and holiday

breads

TUESDAY-FRIDAYCOOKING COURSE WITH

DIFFERENT REGIONAL

DISHES EACH WEEK

Timetable: from 8:30a.m. to 5:30p.m.

Workshop for the senses

At the beginning of each week

the Region is introduced with a

brief overview of its history and

geography. Then each day the

lesson starts with a presenta-

tion of the prime ingredients:

their characteristics, quality,

zone of origin and the

companies that produce them.

16

Weekly Work Plan

In the 15th century the historical center of Jesi went though a phase

of great development.

Right in the heart of the old city, near the beautiful Palazzo della

Signoria, is the Palazzo Balleani, a building that belonged to a family

who owned a large amount of land outside of the town walls.

All the great land-owning families had large cellars beneath their

homes where they gathered grapes to make their supply of wine for

the winter.

Palazzo Balleani, where our School is located, also houses the

Regional Enoteca (Wine-Cellar) of Jesi.

This Enoteca is managed by Assivip, an association of wine producers

who organize wine tasting courses.

Not only do they present wine, but also other high-quality products

from local producers: extra virgin olive oil, cheeses, salami, pasta.

On Mondays the Enoteca is available to our School, where we hold

our themed courses on wine, olive oil, bread, salumi and cheese.

The collaboration with the Enoteca continues on Friday evenings with

the conclusion of the teaching program of the week.

Our School is open to the public for an evening of tasting with a pre-

sentation of the dishes studied during the week.

Regional Enoteca of Jesi

1918 19

PIEMONTE

Vitello della razza

piemontese: l’insalata

di carne cruda, il vitello

tonnato, il bollito misto,

il brasato al barolo.

La cucina di pianura: grano,

patata e riso.

Tajarin, agnolotti, gnocchi.

La cucina di montagna. Le

verdure. La bagna caoda.

Formaggi e dolci.

EMILIA ROMAGNA

Pasta all’uovo e paste

ripiene.

I vari formati: tagliatelle,

tagliolini, tortellini di

Bologna, cappelletti di

Ferrara, anolini di Parma.

Pasta al forno: lasagne e

cannelloni.

MARCHE

La cucina della costa:

il brodetto di pesce,

stoccafisso all’anconetana.

La cucina di collina: farro,

lenticchia e cicerchia.

Vincisgrassi, stracciatella

e passatelli.

Il coniglio in porchetta.

I formaggi ed il tartufo.

PUGLIA

Il grano per il pane e

la pasta. Il grano arso

ed il grano stumpato.

Orecchiette

e cavatelli.

Legumi e verdure:

cime di rapa

e lampascioni.

Latticini: fiordilatte,

provola, scamorza,

burrata.

Formaggi: caciocavallo

e canestrato.

CAMPANIA

La pasta e la cucina della

domenica: ziti al ragù,

paccheri alla genovese,

il sartù di riso, il timballo.

Legumi e verdure: minestra

di broccoli, minestra

maritata, fagioli alla

maruzzara.

Le carni: panzetta di agnello,

costine con papacelle,

coniglio all’Ischitana.

Il pesce ed i frutti di mare.

LOMBARDIA

Il riso: storia, varietà, metodi

di cottura. Risotto alla mila-

nese, risotto alla pilota,

risotto al radicchio, risotto al

vino rosso, risotto con

il pesce fritto.

La pasta: tortelli di zucca

alla mantovana, pizzoccheri

della Valtellina.

Analisi comparata di cottura

di pasta secca.

UMBRIA

Gli antipasti: bruschette,

crostini e pizze.

Le zuppe rustiche: minestra

di ceci, di farro e di fagioli.

La pasta: tagliolini,

quadrucci, umbrichelli.

Il tartufo nero di Norcia

e di Spoleto. La porchetta e

le carni grigliate.

18

Programmidi cucina regionale

TOSCANA

La cucina rustica:

panzanella e fettunta,

acquacotta, pappa al

pomodoro e ribollita.

Le carni: vitello e maiale.

La fiorentina ed i salumi.

Sughi di carne e crostini.

La cucina rinascimentale:

anatra alla frutta, piccione

alle mandorle,

il biancomangiare con

cioccolata calda

aromatizzata alle spezie.

VENETO

Il baccalà: alla vicentina,

alla veneziana, mantecato.

La polenta e la pasta:

i bigoi in salsa.

Le verdure: radicchio rosso

di Treviso, variegato di

Castelfranco, gli asparagi.

Cucina tradizionale veneta:

il saor.

La gallina padovana e la

polverara.

CALABRIA

Paste tradizionali e carni:

tonnarelli, scilatelle, lagane

e ceci, a tiana,

u morzheddu.

Le verdure, le erbe, le

spezie: cottura sotto la

cenere, conservazione

sott’olio.

Il mare: tonno e pesce

spada.

Le minoranze etniche:

albanesi, occitani e grecani.

ABRUZZO

Piatti tradizionali con

l’agnello: agnello con le

erbe, ragù d’agnello,

minestra d’agnello con lo

zafferano, agnello cac ’e

ove, cosciotto d’agnello in

porchetta.

La pasta fresca:

i maccheroncini alla

chitarra, gli anellini alla

pecoraia, la pasta del

mugnaio, tacconi con ceci

e baccalà, cordicelle

mezz’acqua e mezz’ove

con sugo di ventricina.

FRIULI

La tradizione ebraica e l’oca

come alternativa al maiale.

I vari modi di preparazione:

il fegato grasso, i ciccioli

d’oca, oca arrosto all’antica.

Il pesce: la trota nelle sue

preparazioni tradizionali e

moderne. L’anatra.

Il prosciutto di San Daniele.

TRENTINO

Le minestre: orzetto, brò

brusà, canederli. Gli

gnocchi e gli strangolapreti.

I salumi: la lucanica

e la carne salada.

Le carni: tonco de pontesel,

cervo e capriolo.

I funghi e i frutti di bosco.

I formaggi di malga.

La mela trentina.

SICILIA

L’influenza araba.

Il pesce marinato,

il couscous, la caponata e

preparazioni in agro-dolce.

Legumi e formaggi.

Timballo e ravioli di ricotta,

coniglio alla stemperata.

I dolci: la cassata, i cannoli,

i sorbetti e le granite.

Ingredients:

300g. day-old bread150g. fresh lucanica sausage50g. onion2 eggs2 glasses milk2 Tbsp flour3 Tbsp chopped parsley1 bunch chives1 Tbsp (or more) butter170g. liter meat stocksalt and pepper

Preparation:

Cut the bread into cubes and put in

a bowl. Crumble the lucanica and

add to the bread.

Pare and finely chop the onion and

brown in butter.

Beat the eggs with some of the

milk, add the parsley and pour onto

the bread. Set aside for a half-

hour. Then add the flour, salt,

cooked onion and, if necessary,

some more milk.

With wet hands, take portions of

the mixture and make balls about

the size of billiard balls or slightly

smaller and drop into a pot of boi-

ling salted water and cook over

medium heat for approximately 15

minutes. They should be served in

dishes of broth and sprinkled with

chives.

On the first attempts, it is some-

times advisable to cook one

dumpling first, to test whether it

holds together or not. If necessary,

add a little flour to the mixture. One

can also cook the dumplings

directly in the broth.

If the canederli come out right, they

will retain their shape, but be light

and tender.

Variation:

Canederli can also be served

without broth, with melted butter

and cheese, or as an accompani-

ment to Trentino gulash or with

sauerkraut.

20

Traditional

Canederli in broth

A symbol of the old middle-European cuisine, “cane-

derli” (from the German, Knödl), are widely used

in the typical cuisine of the Trentino region. In

all probability, the custom derived from the

need to find a use for stale bread and lefto-

vers. Someone has actually researched and

classified 36 variations, from the broth version

to the pasta-like version, from eating them as a

salad to a first course.

22

The Triumphof Herbs

Areturn to the use of

herbs, cooking with

herbs, flavouring a dish

with herbs…

In our opulent society it has

become a pervading necessity

to eliminate from our diet fats

and sugars in excess.

In Mediterranean culture herbs

have always played a major role.

Thus, it is truly unforgettable

experience, especially in the

Spring, to go out into the fields to

forage for fresh herbs, learn to

recognize them, gather them and

use them in the simplest of ways,

in omelettes, soups, or risotto.

Once again, we have seen con-

firmation that real flavours are

born of genuine ingredients that

are fresh and do not require any

elaborate preparation.

SAPS is a non-profit cultural

association, a research center

dedicated to supplying informa-

tion to chefs, students of Hotel

Management Schools and even

amateurs who wish to learn more

about cooking utensils, like pots

and pans. It is important to know

their shape and the materials with

which they are made, how they

are conceived and what charac-

teristics they must have for opti-

mal results in the kitchen.

The SAPS’s facilities consist of a

study and research area with a

professionally equipped kitchen

as well as a dining hall which

seats over 60 guests.

Moreover there is also a very

special historical museum dedi-

cated to cooking vessels and

implements which faithfully repro-

duces an early 1900’s workshop

with original antique machines

and period pieces.

The association offers courses

which are part theory, on history

and correct usage of kitchen

implements and part practical,

taught by its own highly qualified

teachers: Federico Coria and

Giuseppe Maffioli.

It was the aim of its founders that

SAPS safeguard and pass on its

rich heritage of know-how on the

subject of cooking utensils and

become a place to meet, to have

fun, to learn, available to all

cooking enthusiasts who care

about the culinary arts, the rich

traditions of gastronomy and the

pleasures of “eating well”.

25

Attending the Master Italian

Cooking Course in Jesi means

becoming immersed in the

variety of traditions and food cul-

tures germaine to the various

regions of Italy.

In Jesi the students learn of the

typical dishes of Sicily and

Apulia, of Tuscany and

Piedmont, of the Marches and

Campania. Every day brings new

recipes and different tastes; this

is the history of our country.

Thus, during the Course, ideas

and desires are born: why not

learn more about cooking with

fish? Or about the use of fresh

herbs in Mediterranean cuisine?

Or what about all the different

salumi- how are they made? And

if we perfected our knowledge of

cheese and cheese-making?

Some like the idea of getting to

know more about pasta, others

wish to have a chance to expe-

rience bread or pizza making.

For everyone there are opportu-

nities to learn and improve at

restaurants that are in in line with

Slow Food culture, in every

region of Italy.

24

www.sapsitalia.com

info@sapsitalia.com

Learning continues in

every region of Italy

PIEMONTE

LOMBARDIA

TRENTINOALTOADIGE

FRIULI

VENETO

EMILIA ROMAGNA

TOSCANA

MARCHE

UMBRIA

ABRUZZO

LAZIO

PUGLIACAMPANIA

BASILICATASARDEGNA

CALABRIA

SICILIA

Restaurants affiliatedwith our School

At the conclusion of

the Course, on

occasion of the

official dinner held

in Pergolesi Hall, the

diplomas are awar-

ded, in the

presence of

Authorities, friends

and supporters of our

School.

Each Chef is

presented with the

gold Slow Food

snail pin, a symbol

of what is both slow

and wise.

26

Diploma night

Maurizio di Mario, from

Orvieto, is the young and

impassioned teacher who gui-

des our Students through the intri-

cacies and subtleties of flavour for

an entire day.

First some information on the three

main species (Creole, Forastero,

Trinity) of the cocoa plant and then

it’s to the work table to learn the

various preparation phases.

Egg yolks, flour, toasted almonds,

sugar, spices, butter: all laid out in

a splendid array and everything

begins. Someone beats the eggs

and sugar, someone else melts the

chocolate and butter in a double

boi ler.

While one beats

the egg whites, another butters

the moulds and pre-heats the

oven.

No one knows why, but on

Chocolate Day there is always an

especially festive atmosphere in

the kitchen, a gaiety riding on a

wave of mouth-watering aromas.

Any self-respecting chef naturally

dips a finger into various prepara-

tions to taste for correct seasoning

and balance of flavours in a dish.

This is even more frequent when

there is chocolate as the main

ingredient and then the passer-by

hears lip-smacking and sighs of

pleasure which testify to the deep

gratification of the taster.

When the recipes are ready, the

creations are brought to the table:

semifreddo, tortino, panpepato

and crescionda. Silence. As each

spoon is dipped in each guest con-

centrates on the fullness of the

taste. And suddenly a problem ari-

ses: what wine shall we drink? We

wonder which wine will go best

with chocolate?

There is always a solution and, at

any rate, it’s a good topic for

discussion and a good excuse to

taste it all once more. Cheers!

28

Plunge into an

ocean of chocolateWithin the Master’s Course program there is one

day dedicated to learning about and working with

that most sublime food:

C H O C O L A T E

30

Dear friends,Our School began its first courses at the beginning of 2003 and is

enjoying great success.

In Jesi, a town in the Marches Region of central Italy, the courses are

in full swing and we can foresee having as many as fifty foreign chefs

graduate each year with the “Slow Food- Master Italian Cooking”

Diploma. Our Master’s Course requires an intense amount of study

and hard work from our Students who also learn about numerous

producers and their products in the search for the authentic roots of

Italian regional cooking.

With this new initiative, Slow Food Italy aims to give valid support to

professional chefs from abroad who wish to learn about Italian

cooking in a thorough way, focusing on each region.

Italy is a country in which the recipes are strongly linked to the

traditions, history and people. It is because of the differences

between regions that Italian cuisine is so rich and varied.

This Slow Food cooking course in Italy will also allow new contacts to

be made at an international level and will continue to expand in the

future at the University of Pollenzo. To all of you, dear Convivium

Leaders, we send you this message along with the names and

addresses of those who represent and follow our organizational

activities and who can be contacted for further information.

Japan:Tokyo OfficeHIDE UCHIYAMA Ltd (Ms. Rieko Uchiyama)2-13-22 Shìmouma, Setagaya-kuTokyo-JAPANinfo@jps.it

United States of America:Francesco Tonelli (Associate Professor, The Culinary Institute of America)46 Riverview- Port Ewen12466-5104 New York, NY USAfrancesco@francescotonelli.com

CanadaMara Jernigan4255 Trans Canada Hwy, RR1Cobble Hill B.C. VOR ILOCANADATel. (01) 250.743-4267Fax (01) 250.743-8367engeler@telus.net

To Convivium Leaders

Korea:Chin-wha Kim (President/CEO,Media International Organization)3-102 Hyundai Ville, Yonhee Dong 45-23,SoDaiMonn, Seoul Korea 120-823chinwkim@hotmail.com

Great Britain and Ireland:Wendy Fogarty40c Strawberry Hill RoadStrawberry HillTwickenham MIDDX TW1 4PUUnited Kingdomwfogarty@compuserve.com

Nederland:Stevin Van LaatumWesterdoksdijk t/o 201013 AE Amsterdamstevinvanlaatum@wanadoo.nl

Therazza marchigiana,

breed of the Marche

region, is one of the most famous

in Italy. It first appeared around

the mid-1800’s when the Marche

cattle ranchers cross-bred their

podolica cows with chianina bulls

so as to produce work animals

that also had good meat.

This first hybrid was very muscu-

lar, had a pale coat, short horns

and a small head. It was excel-

lent for meat but too large to be

well-suited to working hilly lands

and sub-Apennine terrain.

Then, in the early 1900’s another

cross-breeding was attempted

with the romagnola breed in the

hopes of reducing the size of the

animal and improving the overall

performance.

The breeding continued for

decades until 1932. At that point

the decision was made to pro-

ceed by internal selection only,

within the bovine population,

according to specific criteria in

order to establish a geneology.

The marchigiana breed as we

know it today, is characteristically

well-developed in its posterior,

has an elongated body, a smooth

coat and a powerful head, but not

overly large. The males have a

massive neck and thick, muscular

thighs, with short, muscular legs.

In the overall body mass there is

little fat, considerable muscle,

excellent quality meat and a low

percentage of bone. A two year-

old male must weigh at least 850

kilograms in order to qualify for

inclusion in a family tree.

In recent decades as agriculture

has become more highly mecha-

nized, the marchigiana breed is

sought out primarily for its meat

which is prized for its excellent

consistency, its fine texture and

rich pink color.

This breed is also raised in the

U.S.A., in Canada and in South

America; it easily adapts to diffi-

cult climactic conditions and

generally adverse situations.

32

A different

breed of cattle

In the 6th century A.D. new barbarian

populations arrived in Italy and with them

the “big-horned bovines”. Virtually all of

the existing breeds present in the various

regions of Italy today descend in some

way from this stock.

COFFEE AND ANICE-FLAVOREDTAGLIATELLE WITH BROCCOLI AND PRAWNS

Ingredients for the pasta:

300g flour2 whole eggs + 1 egg yolk10g Varnelli anice liqueur20g expresso coffee

Preparation:

Combine and blend the flour and eggs, adding the Varnelli anice and the coffee; prepare an egg doughfollowing the usual procedure.Cook the broccoli in water or in a steam oven.Chop the shallot and thyme and sauté in a pan with the oil; add the peeled prawns and add the fishstock, simmering gently until done.Add the broccoli florets and salt to taste.Cook the pasta in plenty of salted boiling water, drain and add to the sauce. Add a little orange-flavoredolive oil and toss to coat.

(Enea Barbanera – Umbria)

The use of liqueurs in cooking is an old

tradition. The choice of Varnelli to cook with

originates from the conviction,

confirmed by all the most famous chefs,

that only a product of high quality can

make a speciality dish better by enriching it

with its essential flavour after the

alcohol has evaporated.

During cooking, “Varnelli”, with its dry and

refined taste, proves to be ideal for the

most varied recipes: a light flavour for fish

dishes, robust with meat and game,

excellent in sauces for many pasta dishes.

“Varnelli” is also great on ice-cream and in

pastries, where all of the other Varnelli

liqueurs can be widely used. With the

“Varnelli Grand Gourmet” line, the company

offers a range of products and recipes for

simple but high quality cooking. Cooking to

be proud of.

Ingredients for the sauce:

200g broccoli florets16 prawns1 small shallot100g fish stock (or clam juice)extra virgin olive oil (regular or orange-flavored)fresh thymesalt

A course designed to teach the taste of Italy, region by region.

A course reserved for chefs from all over the world who prepare Italian food.

A course that looks at the historical roots of the regional cooking of Italy:

from the Alps to the Mediterranean and from the Tyrrhenian to the Adriatic Sea.

A course to know the producers of quality food (pasta, wine, cheese, olive oil,

meat products...) and the gastronomic culture of each region.

A diploma that requires hard work and study, with the chance to do a specialty internship

in one or several Regions at the end of the Course.