Introduction (2)Introduction (2) Weaving machines: Shuttleless loomsWeaving machines: Shuttleless looms

Dr. Jimmy LamDr. Jimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning ObjectivesLearning Objectives

Four different types of shuttleless weaving Four different types of shuttleless weaving machinesmachines– Rapier loomRapier loom– Projectile loomProjectile loom– Air jet loomAir jet loom– Water jet loomWater jet loom

Advantages and disadvantages of each Advantages and disadvantages of each shuttleless loomshuttleless loom

Weaving MachineWeaving MachineShuttleless loomShuttleless loom

The problems of shuttle loom are the weft yarns are The problems of shuttle loom are the weft yarns are placed inside the shuttle. The shuttle is big and heavy placed inside the shuttle. The shuttle is big and heavy and the machine speed is low and noisy to operate. In and the machine speed is low and noisy to operate. In addition, a new pirn must be inserted to the empty addition, a new pirn must be inserted to the empty shuttle for continue operation.shuttle for continue operation.

Shuttleless looms eliminate these problems by placing Shuttleless looms eliminate these problems by placing the cone of yarn at the side of the loom.the cone of yarn at the side of the loom.

Once the yarn is bought across the loom, the yarn is cut, Once the yarn is bought across the loom, the yarn is cut, often leaving a little fringe of the edges of the fabric.often leaving a little fringe of the edges of the fabric.

Automatic Shuttle Loom used in 1970s

Shuttleless LoomShuttleless Loom

There are FOUR different type of shuttleless looms There are FOUR different type of shuttleless looms They are They are

– Rapier loom (single and double type);Rapier loom (single and double type);

– Gripper or projectile loom;Gripper or projectile loom;

– Water jet andWater jet and

– Air jet loomAir jet loom

Except the weft yarn is placed at the side of the loom, Except the weft yarn is placed at the side of the loom, the weaving processes (primary and auxiliary motions) the weaving processes (primary and auxiliary motions) of shuttleless loom is similar to shuttle loomof shuttleless loom is similar to shuttle loom

Shuttleless Loom. Insert weft yarn by means of projectile, rapier, air and water jet

Weft yarn is placed outside the weaving loom.

The speed is faster, quiet and better fabric quality

Shuttleless loomShuttleless loomRapier LoomRapier Loom

A rapier loom uses a rapier to pull the weft yarn across the A rapier loom uses a rapier to pull the weft yarn across the loom.loom.

It can be a single rapier or double rapier.It can be a single rapier or double rapier. For a single rapier, a long rapier device is required to For a single rapier, a long rapier device is required to

extend across the full width of warp.extend across the full width of warp. For a double rapier loom, two rapiers enter the shed from For a double rapier loom, two rapiers enter the shed from

opposite sides of the loom and transfer the weft from one opposite sides of the loom and transfer the weft from one rapier head to the other near the centre of the loomrapier head to the other near the centre of the loom

The advantage of two rapier system is only 50% of the The advantage of two rapier system is only 50% of the rapier movement is utilized in the weft insertion of single rapier movement is utilized in the weft insertion of single rapier loomrapier loom

Yarn is passed from one rapier head (LHS) to other rapier head (RHS).

Double Rapier Heads

Rapier LoomRapier Loom

Rapier Head

Donier Rapier Loom, Rigid Double Rapier

Shuttleless loomShuttleless loomRapier LoomRapier Loom

Rapier loom in action (Video)Rapier loom in action (Video)

Shuttleless LoomShuttleless LoomProjectile loom (I)Projectile loom (I)

The picking action is accomplished by a small bullet-like The picking action is accomplished by a small bullet-like gripper which grips the weft yarn and carries it through gripper which grips the weft yarn and carries it through the shed.the shed.

This is a more positive way of inserting the weft yarn This is a more positive way of inserting the weft yarn without restoring to the heavy shuttle.without restoring to the heavy shuttle.

Because the mass of gripper is low, the forces needed to Because the mass of gripper is low, the forces needed to accelerate it are less and the picking mechanism can be accelerate it are less and the picking mechanism can be lighter.lighter.

In addition, the running speed of the looms can be In addition, the running speed of the looms can be increased significantly compared with conventional increased significantly compared with conventional shuttle loom.shuttle loom.

Projectile LoomSmall bullet-like gripper is passed from one side to the other inside the shed

Gripper

Projectile LoomProjectile Loom

Bullets inside the rail

Shuttleless loomShuttleless loomProjectile loom (II)Projectile loom (II)

Several grippers are normally used in the loom.Several grippers are normally used in the loom. While one is crossing the loom with weft yarn, the While one is crossing the loom with weft yarn, the

others are returning to the starting position.others are returning to the starting position. The dragging of the weft yarn across a loom creates The dragging of the weft yarn across a loom creates

strain on this yarn, so projectile looms are not suited strain on this yarn, so projectile looms are not suited for weaving with very weak yarn.for weaving with very weak yarn.

However, it is excellent for use with heavy and bulky However, it is excellent for use with heavy and bulky yarns, as well as regular size yarns.yarns, as well as regular size yarns.

It is the most versatile of the shuttleless looms in It is the most versatile of the shuttleless looms in regard to the range of fabric it can produce.regard to the range of fabric it can produce.

Gripper Projectile Loom

Shuttleless loomShuttleless loomProjectile loomProjectile loom

Projectile loom in action (Video)Projectile loom in action (Video)

Shuttleless LoomShuttleless LoomAir Jet (I)Air Jet (I)

Jet looms take the weft yarn across the loom by using a high speed of Jet looms take the weft yarn across the loom by using a high speed of either air or water.either air or water.

The force of air or water carriers the yarn from one side to the other.The force of air or water carriers the yarn from one side to the other. Jet looms are faster than projectile or rapier looms (picks per minute).Jet looms are faster than projectile or rapier looms (picks per minute). However, they cannot produce as great a variety of fabrics (no heavy However, they cannot produce as great a variety of fabrics (no heavy

or bulky yarns), nor can they produce as a wide a fabric (jets have or bulky yarns), nor can they produce as a wide a fabric (jets have less yarn-carrying power).less yarn-carrying power).

Jet looms also do less damage to the warp since there is no abrasion Jet looms also do less damage to the warp since there is no abrasion of this yarn by the jets of air or water, unlike the projectile or rapier.of this yarn by the jets of air or water, unlike the projectile or rapier.

Air Jet LoomMultiple air nozzles are used to insert the weft yarn into the shed

Air nozzle

AIR JET WEFT INSERTION SYSTEM

Shuttleless LoomShuttleless LoomAir jet (II)Air jet (II)

With the air-jet looms, the initial propulsion With the air-jet looms, the initial propulsion force is provided by a main nozzle. force is provided by a main nozzle.

Relay nozzles (auxiliary nozzles) along the shed Relay nozzles (auxiliary nozzles) along the shed produce additional booster jets to help carry the produce additional booster jets to help carry the yarns across the loom.yarns across the loom.

The fabric width of air-jet loom is normally The fabric width of air-jet loom is normally narrower than rapier or projectile loomnarrower than rapier or projectile loom

Relay Nozzle

Tunnel Nozzle

Air Jet LoomAir Jet Loom

Main Air Nozzle

Shuttleless LoomShuttleless LoomAir jetAir jet

Air jet loom in action (Video)Air jet loom in action (Video)

Water Jet Loom (Toyota)

Shuttleless LoomShuttleless LoomWater jet (I)Water jet (I)

With water-jet looms, there is only a main nozzle to With water-jet looms, there is only a main nozzle to provided the propulsion of the weft yarn.provided the propulsion of the weft yarn.

The loom is very efficient, with only a small amount of The loom is very efficient, with only a small amount of water required and is the fastest type of shuttleless water required and is the fastest type of shuttleless loom.loom.

Water-jet looms are capable of producing 700 picks Water-jet looms are capable of producing 700 picks per min (ppm) for 75-inch fabrics compared to about per min (ppm) for 75-inch fabrics compared to about 180 picks per min for shuttle looms with 44-inch 180 picks per min for shuttle looms with 44-inch fabric.fabric.

Shuttleless LoomShuttleless LoomWater jet (II)Water jet (II)

Since wet fabric cannot be stored in a roll, water-jet Since wet fabric cannot be stored in a roll, water-jet looms are equipped with efficient drying units.looms are equipped with efficient drying units.

The units use vacuum suction and heat to remove the The units use vacuum suction and heat to remove the water from the fabric.water from the fabric.

Water-jet looms are best suited for weaving filament Water-jet looms are best suited for weaving filament yarns made of hydrophobic fibres (water-resistance yarns made of hydrophobic fibres (water-resistance fiber) like nylon, or polyester/cotton. fiber) like nylon, or polyester/cotton.

Yarns made of fibres that lose strength when wet (e.g Yarns made of fibres that lose strength when wet (e.g rayon) should not be used.rayon) should not be used.

Weaving Production RatesWeaving Production Rates

Date Working Hours to weave 100m plain fabric

Technology Involved Working Conditions

1750 400 hours (5.5 weeks) Hand loom worked at home 72 hours/week

1790 100 hours (1.5 weeks) John Kay’s flying shuttle 72 hours/week

1810 100 hours (1.5 week) Power looms start to be used 72 hours/week

1840 14 hours Power looms take over (USA) 72 hours/week

1900 9 hours Northrop automatic loom 72 hours/week

1950 50 mins One weaver supervising 24 looms 48 hours/week

1970 25 mins One weaver supervising 20 looms (projectile)

40 hours/week

1980 10 mins Multished looms weaving 3 widths of fabric at a time

35 hours/week

DiscussionDiscussion

What are the advantages of shuttleless loom What are the advantages of shuttleless loom over the shuttle loom ?over the shuttle loom ?

Amongst all the shuttleless looms, which one Amongst all the shuttleless looms, which one runs fastest, and which one produce the most runs fastest, and which one produce the most versatile textile fabrics (heavy/medium/fine versatile textile fabrics (heavy/medium/fine fabrics)?fabrics)?