Internship Report (Ginni Filaments)

Abhishek Nishant Kumar

Textile Internship - Ginni Filaments Pvt. Ltd.

Introduction

The winter internship for semester 5 of Apparel Production required us to visit a textile industry

and study the following departments-

spinning

weaving

knitting

dyeing

printing

finishing

The industry selected by us was Ginni Filaments Limited, Kosi. Located in Tehsil Chatta,

District Mathura, Uttar Pradesh, GFL has constantly grown from one strength to another.

Installed capacity today stands at 64,560 spindles, with a capacity of thousand tonnes per

month.

Ginni Filaments have four of the above (spinning, knitting, dyeing and finishing)

The study was conducted from 27st December to 7th January.

The schedule for the study was as follows:

Unit Name Contact Person Duration

Spinning Unit

(Blow room to Finishing)

Mr. Ashwani Kamra

Mr. R.S. Maurya

Mr. O.P.S. Rathi

29 to 31.12.2010

R&D Department Mr. A.Ramkrishnan 01.01.2011

Knitting Department Mr. Sorabh Kohli 03.01.2011

Dyeing Department Mr. Anil Sharma 04.01.2011

Finishing Department Mr. Tapan Biswal 05.01.2011

Lab & Inspection

Department

Mr. Arvind Singh 06.01.2011

PPC Department Mr. Pankaj Dalal 07.01.2011

NIFT Bangalore / DFT 2008-12 /Abhishek , Nishant Kumar


Objectives of the Internship

The internship helps us to understand the structural and functional constituents of the industry,

as during the internship we learn to adapt to real industrial situations which equips us for

decision making in a realistic environment. The internship also helps to strengthen the

relationship between the industry and students. The textile internship was carried out to

develop a clear understanding about the following:

Flow process sequence and Technical details on machine particulars of weaving,

dyeing, printing, finishing, laboratory etc.

Particulars of raw material, intermediate products and final product, process details,

product quality parameters.

Particulars of the manufacturing environment.

Human resource management.

Productivity analysis for various processes.

a) To observe the various departments in the organization

b) To understand the various processes in the department

c) To understand their interrelation within the organization

d) To observe the various models and makes of the machines being used

e) To study the working environment of the industry



Company Profile

In 1990, Ginni Filaments Ltd. (GFL) was commissioned with 26208 spindles to produce

ultrafine combed cotton yarn. A 100% export oriented unit, it was designed to produce a

quality that was genuinely world class. Sophisticated plant & machinery from the world

renowned machinery manufacturers viz. RIETER, Schlafhorst, Volkmann etc. with top of

the line support systems for quality monitoring were installed.

Located in Tehsil Chatta, Distt. Mathura, Uttar Pradesh, GFL has consistently grown from

one strength to another. Installed capacity today stands at 64560 spindles with a capacity

of 1000 tonnes per month.

The product range includes 100% combed cotton yarns from Ne16 to Ne50, both in

single and double ply construction.

In January 1998, GFL embarked upon an ambitious expansion project by entering the

arena for Open End Yarn. GFL has 1680 rotors with a capacity to produce 600 tonnes

per month of open end yarn in the count range of Ne 6 to 20. Products have been well

accepted by buyers around the world.



The company also manufactures TFO doubled, compact spun, elitwist and gassed yarns.

The company has also graduated into knitted fabrics and installed 26 knitting machines

from M/sTerrot and Mayer to produce Single Jersey, Interlock, Rib Terry and Lycra

fabrics. Since April 2005, GFL has expanded into processed knitted fabrics. The

complete machinery has been imported from Thies &Santex. Ginni has started working

with some leading European brands and other global brands like Benetton, C & A, Allen

Solly, Van Heusen, J C Penny etc. The success story at GFL is the story of evolution of

single minded devotion to quality. The company obtained the ISO 9000 certification as

early as 1996 and also got the recognised as Trading house by the Govt. Of India.



In order to get fully vertically integrated and be present from fibre to fashion, Ginni

Filaments Limited has entered garment business with its first unit in Noida in Sept. 2006,

with a capacity of 2,50,000 pcs per month. The capacity would be increased to one

million pcs per month in a phased manner.

The plant for spun-lace non woven fabrics with an installed capacity of 12,000 MT/p.a.

which is the first of its kind in India commenced production in March, 2007 in Panoli

Industrial Estate, Gujarat.

Converted products made out of spun-lace non woven fabrics have been launched by

the company in the Indian Market.



Milestones

Year Milestone Capacity

1990 Capacity installed 26208 Spindles

1993 Installed capacity increased to 36288 Spindles


1995 Forward integration into knitting 29 Knitting

Machines

2005 Set up a knit process house 250 tons/month


2006 Installation of rotor 1680 rotors

2006 Venture into Nonwoven Consumer Products

2006 Venture into Knit Garmenting 2,50,000

pcs/month

2007 Venture into Spunlace Nonwoven 12,000 mtr/p.a.

2007 Venture into Consumer products made from

spunlace fabric



1. Spinning

1.1 Ginni Spinning – Kosi

Yarn Capacity (100% Cotton)

o Ring Spun Yarn (16s to 40s) – 67000 Spindles

Monthly Capacity – 1250 Tones

o Open End Yarn (6s to 20s)

1680 Rotors

Monthly Capacity Open End Yarn

600 Tones

Types of yarn produced

Warp yarn, Hoseiry yarn,slub yarn



1.2 Flow Chart Spinning




Godown Storage of bales

Blowroom

Bale CleaningBale OpeningMixing/Blending

CardingFiber to Fiber SeperationWaste (vegetable, seed fragments) RemovalEnd Product - Sliver

Comber Preparation Straightening, Uniformity, Evenness

Breaker Draw Frame First level of drawing to increase parallelization and uniformity of sliver.

Comber several slivers / ribbons are combined

Finisher Draw Frame Second level of drawing to get finer yarn.

Speed Frame drafting, twisting and winding takes place.

Spinning Open end spinning and ring spinning

To remove objectionable faults & to Convert ring bobbin into large package

To make the yarn suitable for packaging

Packing For the disposal of the final yarn


1.3 Storage: (Cotton Godown)

The mill consists of 5 godowns which are used for the storage of ginned cotton. The cotton is

purchased from domestic as well as international market. Main vendors of the raw material are

from Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and United States of America. The main

motto of the company is to look after the quality of the ginned cotton and fiber maturity which

determines the market price of the raw cotton.

Proper protection from moisture is given to the godowns as it affects the fiber properties and

can alter the functional as well as aesthetic properties of the fiber. In addition there is a limited

no. of lights of low intensity or any electrical products in order to avoid fire in the godowns,

since ginned cotton is highly flammable.

Procurement of the purchased cotton is done by the commercial department.

Each godown has a capacity of 10,000 bales. Domestic bales comprise of 160-165 kgs of

cotton on average and international bales have 200-300 kgs of cotton per bale.

Random checking of the bales purchased is done manually

and is stored in an ordered manner.

Cotton varieties used for spinning here are Cotton J34, Mech1 & Mcu-5.

There is a separate storage room for organic cotton. Organic cotton is cultivated without

the usage of any harmful chemicals like pesticides and insecticides.



Information given on each stack of bales

Vendor GJ-0087

Vendor lot no. 34A6

Mill lot no. BL-006

Cotton Type MCU-5

No. of Bales 17

Date of receival: 13/12/2010

1.4 Blowroom

• Opening

• Cleaning

• Blending

The cotton arrives at the mill in large bales. The compressed mass of raw fiber must be

removed from the bales, blended, opened and cleaned. Blending is necessary so as to

obtain uniformity of fiber quality; opening is necessary in order to loosen the hard lumps of

fiber and disentangle them; Cleaning is required to remove trash – such as dirt, leaves,

burrs, and any remaining seeds – in order to prepare the fiber for spinning into yarn. These

functions are accomplished through a continuous series of stages.

Bale is opened manually by workers. They open the ropes which hold the bale together.

They do a little bit of cleaning while opening.

Then the bales are kept in columns according to their count. Like four columns of bales

having 16 bales in each columns, thus 64 bales in total. NIFT Bangalore / DFT 2008-12 /Abhishek , Nishant Kumar


The machine used for Bale opening and blending is RIETER Unifloc A10 .

RIETER UNIfloc A10

Efficient bale opening must prepare the material properly for the subsequent cleaning stages,

as well as making operation easy and ensuring that personnel are largely relieved of the need

to intervene unnecessarily. The UNIfloc A 10 fulfils these requirements.

Small tufts are essential for efficient cleaning. Small tufts offer a large surface area. Trash, dirt

and dust are exposed and can be removed gently.

A whole series of functions support you to ensure simple, efficient bale opening. In particular,

optional scanning of the contours of the bale makes laborious alignment of the bale lay-down

unnecessary. Alignment is performed automatically during several takeoff cycles. The bales

are opened parallel, down to the last tuft. The intelligent control system ensures uniform bale

reduction.



1. Control cabinet – The functioning of the machine can be controlled using this

display.

2. Bale lay-down – The rows of bales put together to be taken up by the machine.

3. Take-off unit – This unit is responsible for sucking up the fibers from the bales.

4. Swivelling take-off tower with chassis – This is where the opening and blending

takes place.

5. Channel for material materiel transport

RIETER UNIflex B 60

This machine is used for Bale Cleaning. The fiber from UNIfloc A 10 goes to UNIflex B 60

via pipes. There is suction mechanism which transports the fiber through various processes.

This way the fiber is not exposed to the external environment while being transported.

The UNIflex B 60 is a fine-cleaner for natural fibers. Its maximum production capacity is 600

kg/hour. It can be used without any additional components as a feed machine for cards.

The single-cylinder concept permits a wide operating range with no damage to the fibers or

excessive loss of good fibers. Technological superiority is only one of the advantages offered

by the B 60. High running efficiency is a further important aspect.

State-of-the-art design



Easy maintenance and trouble-free operation are high on the list of priorities. The design is

simple. A single cleaning cylinder minimizes the negative side effects familiar from multi-

cylinder cleaners – i.e. higher NEP counts and loss of good fibers.

The tufts are fed evenly into the lamellar chute by the integrated feeding fan and the divider

element. The material is guided downwards through the chute and a perforated drum.

Unidirectional feeding is performed by a feed roller and a feed trough. The nipping/combing

point distance is adjusted according to the staple length.

The modular grid with the carding element and the cleaning cylinder work together to open the

tufts further and separate the remaining trash from the fibers. A spiked or saw-tooth roller is

used, depending on the raw material.





1.5 CARDING

Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed, the

fibres must be entangled, and they must be straightened. The straightening process puts

the fiber into a somewhat parallel lengthwise alignment. This is necessary for all staple

fibers; otherwise it would be impossible to produce fine yarns from what is originally a

tangled mass.

The cotton comes off of the Blowroom, and is then taken to carding machines. The carders line

up the fibers to make the spinning easier.

The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn on a rapidly revolving cylinder covered

with very fine hooks or wire brushes. The carding machine consists mainly of one big roller

with smaller ones surrounding it. All of the rollers are covered in small teeth, and as the cotton

progresses further on the teeth get finer (i.e. closer together).

The machine used for carding is RIETER C 50,C 60,C 4,C 4a.

No of carding machines – 27.

RIETER CARD C 50

With its unique geometry in the carding zone, the C 50 high-performance card provides one of

the main building blocks for achieving financial success. With a working width of 1500 mm,

output by the C 50 card is up to 50% higher than on conventional models – and is combined

with superior sliver quality. The ratio of output to energy and space requirements is

revolutionized by the C 50. It is available with coiler (CBA), integrated draw frame without

leveling (SB module) and in the auto-leveling version (RSB module) for use in the OE direct

process.

The machine has a capacity of up to 220 kg/hour. The consistently high carding quality is

achieved amongst other things by using the IGS Integrated Grinding System. This ensures

constant sharpness of the cylinder and flat clothing and long clothing lifetimes. These



guarantee a consistent sliver quality. With its modular construction the C 50 is very

maintenance friendly, and can be changed over very quickly to new production requirements.

The cotton enters the carding machine in web form(fine feed),and leaves the carding machine

in the form of sliver/ ribbon large rope/ sheet of fibers.

The cleaning efficiency of carding machine is 98%.

Machine specifications


Model no. RIETER C50

Card no. 31

Count 20’s

Sliver Tex 5.60 ktex

Production rate 35-50 kg/hr

CAN ID White + pink tip

Target production 280-400 kg/shift

Delivery speed 104-149 m/min


1.6 COMBING PREPARATION

Before the carded yarn is sent for combing, it has to undergo through certain machines so as

to make the yarn into straight, uniform and parallel strands. Several slivers are combined

together which results in relatively narrow lap of compactly placed staple fibers. The

compactness of these fibers permits this cotton stock to be attenuated, or drawn out, to a sliver

of smaller diameter without falling apart.

The machine used for this purpose is RIETER SB2 & RIETER UNILAP E-30.

RIETER SB2

The SB drawframe module is impressive with its low space requirements and a delivery speed

of up to 800 m/min. The 3-over-3 drafting system is positioned inclined and permits up to a 5-

fold draft. The best parallelity of the fibers and thus an optimal sliver quality are guaranteed.

The drafting system geometry is based on the successful SB/RSB-D 40 drawframes. A

shortening of the process by one drawframe passage is possible depending on the yarn count,

raw material

and spinning process.



RIETER UNILAP E-30

E 30 UNIlap combing preparation combines mill-proven engineering and soundly based

technology in a compact design – the ideal basis for superior productivity and economy. The 3-

over-3 drafting system ensures high fleece quality through optimum finishing drafting and

parallelization of the fibers. High-quality laps are produced by means of two lapping rollers and

a variable production speed. Laps produced on the UNIlap display outstanding unwinding

behavior on the comber.

UNIlap E 30 encompasses the latest knowhow based on technical and technological

experience with proven components from the previous successful model:

2-zone drafting for ideal fiber drawing

4 calendar rollers and automatic regulation of the lap loading

for perfect lap build-up

High production rates and quality levels by means of

VARIO speed

Improved running conditions – better reliability

Functional design for greater ease of operation



2-ZONE DRAFTING SYSTEM

The 2-zone drafting system enables the correct application of splitting pre- and main drafting in

both zones. Only optimal drafting distribution can ensure the best drafting conditions and the

resulting fiber parallelization. In particular, with longer fiber 2-zone drafting shows significant

quality advantages when predrafting is reduced and the main draft is increased.

4 calendar rollers and large lap rollers Regulated automatic lap loading



4-CALENDER ROLLERS – LARGE LAP ROLLERS

4 calendar rollers and large lap rollers allow for faultless batt structure and ensure secure and

optimal lap construction.

VARIOspeed

VARIOspeed permits permanent adjustment of the lap speed to the lap diameter during the

entire lap build-up cycle. Together with consistently better lap quality it also ensures higher

production rates.



RIBBON LAP (LH10)

Ribbon lapping is also done to make fibers more uniform and even accompanied by lap

to lap doubling.

There are four automatic ribbon lapping machines.

Each ribbon lap weighs around 20 kgs.

Automatic doffing of the creels takes place and new cylindrical cones are loaded.



1.7 DRAW FRAME

The draw frame contributes less than 5% to the production costs of the yarn. However, its

influence on quality, especially evenness, is all the greater for this. If the Drawer frame is

not properly adjusted, there will also be effects on yarn strength & elongation.

Equalizing

One of the main tasks of the draw frame is improving evenness over short, medium &

especially long terms. Card slivers fed to the draw frame have a degree of unevenness that

cannot be tolerated in practice.

Parallelizing

To obtain an optimal value for strength in the yarn characteristics, the fibers must be

arranged parallel in the fiber strand. The draw frame has the task of creating this parallel

arrangement. It fulfills this task by way of the draft, since every drafting step leads to

straightening of the fibers.

The value of the draft must be adapted to the material that is to several fiber parameters:

The staple length

The mass of the fibers

The volume of the strand

The degree of order (parallel disposition)



Dust Removal

Dust is steadily becoming a greater problem both in processing and for personnel involved.

It is therefore significant to remove dust in every possible step in the process.

1.7.1 BREAKER DRAW FRAME

Machine: LMW LDO/6

This machine is used for breaker draw frame.



Salient Features

High delivery speed of upto 500 mts/min

Production upto 360 kg/h

High efficiency

Flexibility

The pneumatically loaded 3-cylinder pressure bar drafting arrangement makes the

processing of noils as well as fibres of a staple length upto 75 mm possible

Controlled positive sliver feed table for can size of 600 x 1100 mm (24''x42'')

Sliver Compression

Sliver compression before coiling increases can content

Automatic can changer

Increases the efficiency of the machine

Cleanliness

Dust extraction improves the working condition



1.7.2 FINISHER DRAW FRAME

This process is used for both open end as well as ring spun yarns.

In case of ring spun yarns, it is done after the combing process.

Machine: RSB D35 RIETER

Rectangular CUBIcans contain up to 75% more material in comparison to round cans. This

reduces the operating expenses, results in quality benefits and increases the efficiency of

downstream processing. The active guidance of the can bottom permits CUBIcans to be

operated without springs and increases flexibility. CUBIcans protect the sliver better and are

more robust than a conventional rectangular can with a lateral slit.

Economy

Delivery speeds of up to 1 000 m/min

Up to 75% higher filling capacity in comparison to round cans for reduced operator

expense

Higher spinning machine efficiency

Quality

Precise levelling

Proven 4-over-3 drafting system

Effective suction system



Flexibility

Automatic filter cleaning

Central lubrication

Central drafting system adjustment



1.8 COMBING

When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional straightening

called combing. In this operation, fine toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until

they are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that the short fibers called noils are

combed out and completely separated from the longer fibers.

In combing, several slivers / ribbons are combined.

Each sliver will have thin and thick spots, and by combining several slivers together a

more consistent size can be reached.

Since combining several slivers produces a very thick rope of cotton fibers, directly after

being combined the slivers are separated into rovings.

These rovings are then what are used in the spinning process.

The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which, in turn, produces

a smoother & more even yarn. This operation eliminates as much as 25% of the original card

sliver; thus almost one-fourth of the raw cotton becomes waste. The combining process,

therefore, is identified with consumer’s goods or better quality. Since long staple yarns produce

stronger, smoother & more serviceable fabrics, quality cotton goods carry labels indicating that

they are made of combed yarns or combed cottons.

Machine Specifications

Model no. RIETER E60

Card no. 42

Count 20’s



Sliver Tex 5.80 ktex

CAN ID White + steel strip

Target production 58 km/shift

RIETER E60

70 kg/h on the new, fully automated E 60 comber or 72 kg/h on the E 66 comber – these

are the effective production figures of the new combers. The increase in output has been

achieved by means of C•A•P•D 500 (Computer Aided Process Development). With

500 nips/min., up to 80 g/m batt weight, superior fiber selection and very good machine

running behavior, the combers produce top quality with maximum economy. The ROBOlap

fully automated lap changing and piecing system on the E 76 comber remains a unique

feature.

Economy

Effective output of the automated machines is up to 74 kg/h. This corresponds to

1.7 tonnes of combed sliver per day – a new record.

The E 66 / E 76 combers produce at up to 500 nips/min. in mill operations.

With equivalent quality, RIETER combers extract up to 2% fewer noils, i.e. achieve up to

2% raw material savings, compared to other systems.

Quality

High and uniform quality with reduced noil extraction is achieved uncompromisingly by

virtue of excellent fiber selection on the RIETER combers.

High yarn quality at high nip rates and highest possible batt weight. This applies to

imperfections and tenacity/elongation as well as infrequent weak places in the yarn.

Gentle fiber treatment by optimal coordination of comb movements and technology

elements - developed by RIETER.



Flexibility

The grade of raw material utilization and quality can be selectively controlled on the

basis of maximum output.

The 3-over-3 cylinder drafting system with pressure bar and variable break and main

draft distance enhances precise fiber guidance for all staple lengths.

The fully automated lap changing and piecing system on the E 76 ROBOlap comber is

unique worldwide.



1.9 ROVING / SPEED FRAME

At the speed frame, drafting, twisting and winding takes place. It is the last stage of the

preparatory unit before actual spinning takes place.

In speed frame, rove is formed from sliver as well as twist is provided using pliers.

Diameter of the fiber is reduced and the length is increased.

Here the slivers are fed and the wound bobbin is obtained.

These bobbins are placed on the roving frame, where further drawing out and twisting

takes place until the cotton stock is about the diameter of a pencil lead.

It is a preparatory stage for the final insertion of twist.

It gives no tensile strength & will break apart easily with nay slight pull

It is not done for open end spun yarns: only for ring spinning.

The machines used for this are LMW LF 1400-A and LMW LF 1465

LMW LF 1400-A

Salient Features

Flyer speed up to 1400rpm

Delivery speed up to 40 mts/min

Flexibility in drafting system

Top and Bottom clearer device with suction

Number of spindles up to 144



Pneumo stop and Creel stop

High Production

Flyer Speed up to 1400 rpm (mechanical)

Delivery speed up to 30 mts/min. for cotton and 40mts/min. for synthetics

Package size 12" x 6.5"

User Friendliness

Positive Top and Bottom clearer system

Effective suction system for both top and bottom clearer waste

Dual compartment filter box

Electromagnetic device for reliable trough reversal

Simplified 3 rollers and 4 roller spring loaded Drafting system

Creel up to 7 rows for easy accessibility



LMW LF 1465

Salient Features:

Spindleage upto 200

Spindle speed upto 1500rpm (Mechanical)

Auto doffer with Provision for bobbin transport system

4 Segment servo drive : Bobbin , Flyer , Drafting and Bobbin trough

Drafting system- Double apron drafting system with 3 roller or 4 roller drafting

Unique Individual bobbin tilting for easy doffing incase of Manual doffing

Detachable flyer spindle for removing bobbins midway

Automatic roving tension controller

TDCL suction system for effective suction across the machine

4 row aluminum hexagonal roller creel

Ergonomic human machine interface



1.10 SPINNING

Fiber is converted to yarns.

Spinning is the final formation of yarns from raw yarns which includes drafting, twisting

and winding.

The final drafting of the yarn is done at this stage.

Spinning of the yarn decides main two parameters: yarn twist and yarn count.

Yarn Twist: the amount of twist is an important factor in finished consumers’ goods. It

determines the appearance as well as the durability and serviceability of the fabric. Fine

yarns require more twist than coarse yarns.

Yarn Count: In the spinning process, there is always a fixed relation between the

weight of the original quantity of fiber and the length of the yarn produced from that

amount of raw material. This relation indicates the thickness of the yarn. It is determined

by the extent of the drawing process and is designated by numbers, which are called

the yarn count. This yarn count may be expressed according to the traditional method or

by the newer Tex system, which is based entirely upon the metric system of

measurement.

In Ginni filament Ltd., yarn count is measured in English count system(Ne) [No. of 840

yards strands per 1 English pound of pass.

The Tpi for knitting yarn is 3.6 to 3.7 depending on the requirement.

The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through several

sets of rollers running at successively higher rates of speed and is finally drawn out to

the yarn of the size desired.

Spinning done here is of two types: Open end spinning & ring spinning.



1.10.1 Open End Spinning

It is a technology for creating yarn without using a spindle.

Also known as break spinning or rotor spinning.

Sliver from the card goes into the rotor, is spun into yarn and comes out, wrapped up on

a bobbin, all ready to go to the next step

There is no roving stage or re-packaging on an auto-coner.

The machines used here RIETER R1 (4 nos. having 960 rotors in total) &

SCHLAFHORST Autocoro S360 (2 nos. having 720 rotors in total).

In Open-end, 20 Tons yarn per day are being produced in the count range of Ne 6s to

Ne 20s.

Machine: RIETER R1

The fully automated R 1 rotor spinning machine offers enormous productivity potential with up

to 500 spinning positions and with up to 4 high-speed robots. Leadership in uniform yarn

quality is achieved through state-of-the-art spinning technology and AEROpiecing® for yarn-

like piecings. Energy-saving drives and a fully developed operating concept reduce running

costs to a minimum, creating the ideal preconditions for long-term, successful operation.

Economy

Up to 500 rotors per machine and 2, 3 or 4 robots with overlapping operating zones.

Inverters and optimized bearing technology reduce energy consumption.

Robots with extremely short cycle times for piecing and package change (< 25 s).



Quality

Superior yarn quality due to the high spinning stability of the SC-R spinning box.

Constant high yarn quality due to SPEEDpass, BYpass and the fixed fiber beard

support.

Unique AEROpiecing® technology for yarn-like piecings.

Flexibility

Fast lot change on the machine display due to modern frequency-controlled drives.

Easy robot setting with the eXpert Piecing System (XPS).

Fancy yarn device from experts available as option including multicount / multitwist.

The machine in this mill produces cotton of count 7’s with a rotor speed of 75000 rpm. The

opening roll speed is 77000 rpm. Overall length of the yarn is 45km per shift, i.e.,

approximately 1186 kgs.



Machine: SCHLAFHORST Autocoro S360

The Autocoro S 360 combines proven Autocoro factors of success with an innovative piecing

technology: DigiPiecing. The result is: a particularly smart Autocoro. The new piecing process

and the digital piecing check ensure piecing with highest perfection even without automation.

Particularly productive with 360 spinning positions, rotor speeds up to 130,000 rpm and

take-up speeds up

to 230 m/min

Premium Belcoro yarn quality and Autocoro package quality

Ideal for all applications and raw materials

DigiPiecing means: no more shaft drives. Instead: 100 % digital control and execution of

the piecing process by means of high-precision single drives.

In the Autocoro S 360, Corolab XQ, the most successful and most sophisticated clearer

technology in the world, not only ensures unequalled yarn quality but also 100 %

digitally controlled piecings.

The machine in this mill produces cotton of count 9’s with a rotor speed of 92000 rpm. Overall

length of the yarn is 53km per shift, i.e., approximately 1469 kgs.



1.10.2 RING SPINNING

The ring frame is a faster process, but produces a relatively coarser yarn.

Its hundred of spindles, whirling thousands of revolutions a minute, and its constant

spinning action provide a fast operation.

It completes the manufacturing of yarn by-

o Drawing out the roving

o Inserting the twist,&

o Winding the yarn on bobbins.

On each side of the frame are the spindles, above them are the draughting (drafting)

rollers and on top is the creel loaded with bobbins of roving.

The roving (unspun thread) passed downwards from the bobbins to the draughting

rollers.

Here the back roller steadied the incoming thread, while the front roller which was

moving much faster pulled thread out (attenuated) forcing the fibres to mesh together.

The rollers are individually adjustable, originally by mean of levers and weights.

The attenuated roving now passes through a thread guide that is adjusted to be

exactly above the spindle.

Thread guides are on a thread rail which allows them to be hinged out of the way for

doffing or piecing a broken thread.

The attenuated roving passes down to the spindle assembly, where it is threaded

though a small ring called the traveller.

The traveller rotates on the ring. It is this that gives the ring frame its name.

From here it is attached to the existing thread on the spindle.



The machines used here are RIETER G35 & Jingwei F1520.

42 Tons of Single Ring Spun Combed yarn per day in the count range of

Ne 16 to Ne 50 is being produced.

Machine: RIETER G35

The G 35 ring spinning machine is a further milestone in RIETER ring spinning technology.

The functions of the mill-proven G 33 predecessor model have been augmented by new

options for producing fancy yarns and core-spun yarns. Customers benefit from a powerful,

high-quality machine with a wide range of spinning technology features.

Economy

Modular machine design with up to 1 632 spindles.

High economic efficiency – longer machines reduce the fixed proportion of production

costs per kilogram of yarn.

The reduction in energy consumption – a core component of manufacturing,

maintenance and operating costs – has been given top priority.

Quality

The mill-proven Ri-Q-Draft drafting system with pneumatically loaded guide arm and the

Ri-Q-Bridge for superior spinning conditions provide a sound basis for high yarn quality.

Intermediate drive – consistent quality on long machines with > 1 200 spindles.

SERVOgrip – the RIETER innovation for genuine doffing without unwinding – eliminates

underwound threads and considerably reduces fiber fly on ring spinning machines.



Flexibility

Designed for coarse and very fine yarns.

The MEMOset article module stores spinning parameters for up to 18 different yarns.

The data are available at any time and can be called up and processed on-screen.

Machine functions, spindle drive, FLEXIdraft, ROBOload and the travelling cleaner are

centrally controlled. This enables all functions to be operated via a central operator and

display unit. FLEXIstart machine function – spinning start-up in quarter or half-sides

(> 1 200 spindles).



Machine: Jingwei F1520

This spinning frame is the latest development with high-speed, high-efficiency, high-quality and

high stability and reliability of the distinct characteristics.

Features:

Count-20’s

TPM-677

Spindle speed (max) – 16400

Spindle Speed (avg) - 15800

.

1.11 WINDING / AUTOCONER:

Objective - 1. To remove objectionable faults

2. To Convert ring bobbin into large package

Process

Here the winding of the cones takes place from the bobbins obtained from the

spinning department. It’s done by intertwining at the right twist.

Each cone weighs around 2.21 kg

There are 43 automatic coner machine and three semi automated coning

machine.

The machine has 72 heads. Each head has 8 cops fitted at a time.



It has an external attachment for insertion of empty cones after one set of winding

is complete. It is known as ‘creel’.

Here the spindle feed system is also automatic.

As soon as the cop reaches for winding the pneumatic system works two separate

system takes thread from cone and cop for splicing. The movement of the two

system work simultaneously and as soon as splicing gets completed, winding

starts.

The conveyor belt mechanism in the saucer is provided with suction scissors that

enable cross winding by joining the cop and cone thread. It is also provided with a

sensor.

The sensor first detects a full cop and then gives a signal, after which thread for

top winding is inserted.

In case of yarn breakage, the machine automatically rethreads the cone and cop

thread. For this purpose there are suction arm and the gripper arm. The two arms

take thread from the cone and cop respectively and fuse them at the splicer with

the help of a compressor.

If winding of yarn in cop is not proper, then machine ejects the cop and it is being

exited from the machine using the same mechanism which was used for feeding.

The machine has stations which store cones both before and after winding.

The roller/cylinder on which cone rolls for winding has spiral opening shape for

giving twist.

The Machine used here is Autoconer Schlafhorst 338

Machine features:

High-performance basic equipment, machine concept with extension capability.

Safe and reliable winding process through monitoring by sensors.

FX-series for highest quality during winding and in downstream processing.

Flexible, modular splicing system for all textile applications.

Resource-conserving yarn winding.

Intelligent man-to-machine-communication.



Technical features:

Materials wound: Single and plied yarns of natural and manmade staple fibres

Yarn count range: 333 tex - 5,9 tex (Nm 3 - Nm 170, Ne 2 - Ne 100); others after

winding test

Yarn package formats: 3", 4", 5", 6"; cylindrical and tapered

Package diameter: Max. 320 mm

Winding speed: Infinitely adjustable from 300 to 2.000 m/min

Winding of bobbins: Autoconer 338, Type RM, D, V

Rewinding of packages: Autoconer 338, Type E, K

Rewinding of package residues: Autoconer 338, Type RC

1.12 YARN CONDITIONING

1. Machine : LUWA

Process:

This is a moisture regaining room.

Conditioning is done for humidifying cotton in order to increase its strength,

This is so because cellulose forms hydrogen bonds with water which further enhances

its strength.

Here, the cones obtained from the winding department are exposed in a container for

around 4 hour at 58-65 deg Celsius & 1% moisture.

The huge container has a capacity of about 620 cones at a time.NIFT Bangalore / DFT 2008-12 /Abhishek , Nishant Kumar


Conditioning department also has a checking section where the cones are tested for

any stains or shade variation under ultra violet rays.

2. Yarn conditioning plant:

The cones obtained from the winding department are exposed in a room for about 1 hr

in two cycles.

Cycle-1:

Temperature for hosiery yarn is 57 degrees with a pressure of 190 Mbar with a dwell

time of 10 minutes, while temperature for warp yarns is 70 degree Celsius with a

pressure of 200 Mbar for a dwell time of 3 minutes.

Cycle-2:

Temperature for hosiery yarn is 62 degrees with a pressure of 190 Mbar for a dwell time

of 35 minutes, while temperature for warp yarns is 80 degree Celsius with a pressure of

220 Mbar for a dwell time of 20 minutes.

Wax is applied to all knit yarns whereas no application of wax in the warp yarns.

Application of wax on knits increases their weight by 2.5%.

3. Normal room conditioning:



It is done 15 minutes prior to packing.

It is done so as to avoid any sort of condensation on the polythene.

Cones are passed through ultraviolet rays room so as to check the yarn count

uniformity.

1.13 PACKING

The packing is done here in three different ways.

They are:-

Packing in Cartoon Boxes

Packing in Bags

Packing in Pallet packing

For regional and local markets cartoon box packing and bag packing is done whereas for

international exports pallet packing is preferred. Generally the weight of boxes is about 55 kgs.

Packing is done on the basis of:

Count

Blend

Lot No.

Case No.NIFT Bangalore / DFT 2008-12 /Abhishek , Nishant Kumar


Shade No.

Cone Tip

No. of Cones

Net Wt.

Gross Wt.

60% of the total production of cotton yarn is consumed by the internal industries of Ginni

Filaments Ltd. and remaining 40% is exported to other parts of the country as well as abroad.

1.14 Yarn Specifications

COUNT NE16/1C

H

NE20/1CH NE24/1CH NE30/1C

H

NE32/1CH NE40/1CH

Actual count 16 20 24 30 32 40

Count CV% 1.4 1.3 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4

RKM 18.8 18.5 17.5 16.7 16.5 16

RKM CV% 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 < 8.5

Elongation 5.0 5.0 5.1 5.1 4.5 4.25

Elongation Cv% 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 < 8

USTER &

IMPERFECTION

Uster % 8.2 8.6 8.9 9.6 9.8 10.5

Thin Place/Km(-50%) 0 0 0 0 1 5

Thick Place/Km(+50%) 4 7 11 20 20 40

Neps/Km(+200%) 12 13 20 45 48 55

Total Imperfection 16 20 31 65 69 100



Hairiness 8.8 8.5 8.0 7.2 7.2 6.5

CLASSIMAT

FAULT/100KM

A1B1C1D1 55 70 72 80 82 < 150

A3B3C2D2 1 0 2 2 2 < 2

EFG 0 1 0 0 0 0

H1,I1 1 1 1 1 1 10

H2,I2 0 0 0 0 0 5

1.15 Other Unique Features

BIAS

It is unique software to control inventory and issuing of cotton bales to have a

consistent day to day mixing. After receipt of approved cotton lots in the factory

premises, each bale of every consignment is tested and graded with BIAS (BALE

INVENTORY AND ANALYSYS SYSTEM), stacked in Warehouse

bales and its consumption for defined end product. Issue of Raw material is generated

with, BIAS system generating bale lay out for the Uniflock to avoid problems of barre

and inconsistency in Quality.

Contamination free yarn

Today, contamination is the single most major problem for any spinner throughout the

world. To detect unwanted contamination, we have modernised our plant with latest



equipment as given below :-

BARCO : To detect & eliminate Contamination in Blowroom we have installed this

system from M/s BARCO, Belgium in all Blowroom Lines.

Quantum Clearer: To detect & eliminate Contamination on Winding M/c, this is a

latest Optical based clearer QUANTUM CLEARER from M/s Zellweger Uster in

Autoconer. This has a capacity to detect visual contamination upto 5% visibility.

LOEPHE YARNMASTER 930 Plus : This yarn clearer is installed in Autoconer to

detect contamination in yarn along with other objectionable faults.

Elite Spinning

To produce a special yarn having low hairiness and higher strength, these M/cs were

installed to cater special requirement of customer, aspiring for niche market segments.

Length Measuring Device

Our Autoconers and Cheese Winding machines are equipped with electronic Length

Measuring Device so that we can guarantee fixed length material for improved warping

efficiency and lower wastage.

MESDAN Wet Splicer

Our doubled yarn is knotless one. Again thanks to the modern technology of Wet

Splicer from M/s MEASDAN, which we have installed on all our TFOs & Cheese

Winders.

XORELLA Conditioning

All yarn is XORELLA conditioned for Steam setting of twist present in the yarn resulting

in better performance in further processing.



LUWA Air-conditioning system

A computerised Air conditioning system maintains Temperature and Humidity in the

department throughout the year

2. Knitting

LOCATION

o Kosi

CAPACITIES

o Knitting - 29 machines – 300 MT per

day

o Knits processing – 10 Tons of Processed Knitted Fabrics per day consisting of (5

tones of tubular and 5 tons of open-width)



PRODUCT TYPE ON OFFER

o Single Jersey, Single Jersey with Lycra , Rib, Rib with

Lycra,Interlock,Pique,Pique with Lycra,Gassed Single Jersey ,Viscose

Lycra ,Terry Fabric,Interlock Polyester Fabric,Polar Fleece Fabric, Cotton

Melange Single Jersey, Cotton Melange with Lycra

FIBRE SPECIFICATIONS

o 100% conventional cotton, organic cotton, viscose, modal, polyester, cotton

spandex, viscose spandex, and lycra

SPECIAL FINISHES

o Teflon

o Stain Resistant

o Water Repellant

o Fire Retardant

MACHINERY

o Knitting - Circular knitting machines from Mayer & Cie & Terrot

o Knits processing – ECOMASTER dyeing machines

o Finishing equipments from Santex

QUALITY CERTIFICATIONS

o OE 100: Organic Exchange certification

There are two types of Knitted FabricsNIFT Bangalore / DFT 2008-12 /Abhishek , Nishant Kumar


Single Jersey

Double Jersey

Factors affecting the structure of the knitted fabrics

Machine Diameter: the machine diameters used in Ginni are 30”, 32”, 34” and 36”

Gauge of the machine: the available gauges in Ginni are 18gg/20gg/24gg/28gg

Loop Length: a crucial factor as it determines the gram per square meter (GSM) of the fabric.

Knitting in Ginni

Before the yarn is put to any application it is checked for impurities such as dirt, vegetable

impurities (which prevents dyes from entering the fabric) , polypropylene or hair, fabric , plastic

etc. an effective solution to this employed by Ginni is the usage of premium cotton such as

Shankar 6 or Supeema Cotton (America).

After the order is confirmed by the buyer, his requirements are analyzed. Then the yarn is sent

for testing where factors such as fiber length, yarn strength etc are determined. Other specified

conditions are also catered to such as the addition of Spandex. The ratio of Spandex to the

yarn is given as per order (normally its is 5:90)

There are two knitting machines used in Ginni Filaments Ltd.

Flat Knitting Machine : Shima Seiki and Kauo Heng

Circular Knitting Machine: Mayer & Cie and Terrot



Flat Knitting machines are used only for collars and cuffs. Rest all knitting is done on circular

machines. Spandex is attached to each thread or alternate according to the buyer’s demand.

Knitting is done yarn lot-wise so that the dye pick up doesn’t mismatch to avoid fabric defects

like barre etc.

A special software called STARFISH is used in Ginni which helps to optimize yarn processing

and select knitting machines to achieve the desired final product specifications.

Organic Knitting

Ginni caters to buyer’s eco-friendly fabric needs. Many buyers these days prefer their fabric to

be completely organic so as to cause minimum environment damage possible and also gain a

brand value. In organic fabrics no harmful chemicals are employed at any stage. In order to be

able to produce organic fabrics Ginni has acquired a license from Holland which certifies they

have all the necessary equipments and conditions that are needed for the same. The primary

conditions for a fabric to be organically approved are:-

1. No pesticides should be used on the farms for a minimum duration of five years where

the cotton is being grown.

2. The organic yarn and fabric should be kept aloof from other yarns and fabric to avoid

contamination of any kind.

3. No artificially processed chemicals should be used on the yarns/fabrics at any stage of

the manufacturing

4. It should be 100% eco-friendly

5. The machines should be effectively cleaned before using them for the organic raw

material

After Knitting is done the fabric is stacked according to counts in the godown with racks. All the

different types of fabrics are stacked in the same room. Ginni avoids electrical lights as there

would be a chance of fire otherwise.



The organic fabric is stacked separately and its contact with the other fabrics is avoided. This

is done all in accordance with the buyer’s need. Even a slight detection of contamination would

lead to the rejection of fabric.

Fabric Inspection:

The Grey Inspection Department conducts the fabric examination using the Japanese ten-

point system. The inspection is carried out manually.

Japanese 10 Point System

This system assigns penalty points to each defect present depending upon its length. These

points per defect length vary for warp and filling yarns. In ten points system, a piece is graded

first. If the points do not exceed the total yardage of the piece, the piece is not allowed for

various widths being inspected.

Warp Defects Penalty Points



10-36” 10

5-10” 5

1-5” 3

Upto 1” 1

Filling Yarn Penalty Points

Full Width 10

5” to half the width of the goods 5

1-5” 3

Upto 1” 1

Knitting Defects

1. Skewing: Skewing effect is seen as a line or design running at a slight angle across the cloth



2. Bowing or Twisting: A line or a design may curve across the fabric. This

bowing is the distortion caused by faulty take-up mechanism on the knitting machine.

3. Needle Lines: Needle lines or vertical lines are due to a wale that is either tighter or looser than

the adjacent ones. This is caused by needle movement due to a tight fit in its slot or a defective sinker.

4. Barre: horizontal stripes in fabric; possibly due to lower tension in one of the feeders, loops formed

in the knitting cycle initiated by that particular feeder were slightly larger than the rest thus causing an

embossed appearance in the form of stripes.

5. Foreign fly between loops of constructed fabric:

Unclean environment or improper maintenance of machine can cause fly to end up in the knitting zone

where it becomes part of the fabric. Depending on the nature of the material that gets caught up fly can

be removed with ease or difficulty. It is usually a minor defect unless very frequent.

6. Thin Yarn: One of the feeder is receiving yarn from a spool that has finer yarn. This is a major

defect which will leave bands across the entire width of the fabric.



7.Thick Yarn : One of the feeder is receiving yarn from a spool which has thicker yarn. This will also

lead to barre till the spool exhausts or is changed.

8. Laddering: Continued knitting with a broken needle.



9. Hole Fabric Fall off: One reason for a hole of this type can be the needle latch getting stuck in flat

bed machines.

4. Research and Development

A. Dye Lab

Data Color spectrophotometer Complete color solution machine

Ahibha Nuance Lab dyeing machine

Autolab Dispensing system

Veriwide Shade matching system

1. SPECTROPHOTOMETER

PROCESS: Recipe prediction and colour matching with spectrophotometer.



APPARATUS USED: Data Color spectrophotometer

OBJECTIVE: To check/ Pass/ Fail the dyed sample against the approved buyer

standard.

PROCEDURE:

a) Clean the work place and the machine before the start of the work.

b) Ensure that the machine must be in working condition.

c) The operator of the spectrophotometer must be skilled.

d) Power on the machine.

e) Calibrate the spectrophotometer.

f) Calibration must be done in every four hours.

g) First measure the standard, take atleast four readings and sample should be fold

enough so that light cannot pass through it.

h) Measure the batch (trial). Take atleast four readings.

i) Check and print the report for buyer’s reference.

2. LAB DYEING MACHINE

PURPOSE: For experimenting with various dye solutions to get the desired color

shades.

APPARATUS: Datacolor Ahiba Nuance Top Speed II Infrared (IR) Lab Dyeing Machine

PROCESS: Its an Easy to operate multi-step controller with alpha-numeric program

names. It has advanced microprocessor technology controls the heating and cooling

system. The dyeing parameters are constantly monitored during every step of the

dyeing process and displayed on the large graphical display. The memory cards store

an unlimited number of processes. Increased power output ensures reproducible level

dyeing. Suitable for all types of substrates



3. DISPENSING SYSTEM

PURPOSE: ensure that dye solutions used in the lab and on the dispenser are

prepared accurately and consistently.

APPARATUS: AUTOLAB Dispensing System

PROCESS: it provides a range of gravimetric dispensers provide the best of both

worlds: speed, accuracy and maintenance-free performance. Datacolor AUTOLAB™ TF

systems are tube-free, eliminating the possibility of sedimentation and therefore any

need to clean the system. They use dedicated individual injectors to transfer solution

from each dye bottle, removing any possibility of cross contamination.

4. SHADE MATCHING SYSTEM

PURPOSE : To ensure proper shade matching according to the specified requirements

APPARATUS: Veriwide Shade Matching System

PROCESS: In today’s complex colour requirements, a shade cannot always be

assessed under one light source. Several may be needed so that the shade is viewed in

applicable conditions. This allows inconsistencies such as metamerism to be detected.

When two coloured materials have identical spectral reflection curves, they will match

visually under any illuminant.



B. Testing and Quality Control Section

The quality assurance laboratory has the following test methods and devices to ensure a

standard quality of fabric produced.

Gyro wash To test fastness of various methods

(AATCC,ISO.).

Accudry Tumble-drying solution.

Perspirometer Fastness to acid and alkali perspiration.



Tensile Strength Tester To determine the tensile strength and

seam slippage of the fabric

Ph meter To check ph of the fabric.

Crock meter To check rubbing fastness in dry as well

as wet condition.

Washcator Washing m/c could handle various testing

standards.

Pilling & Snugging Tester To check the abrasion and pilling on fabric

Tensile Strength Tester To determine the tensile strength and

seam slippage of the fabric

Color Matching Test The matching of the fabric colour with the

standards followed in the industry

Beesley Balance To determine the count of the fabric

Rubbing Fastness Test To determine the colour fastness of the

fabric to rubbing

GSM Balance Determine the GSM and GLM of the fabric.

Tear Strength Tester To measure the force required to continue

a tear which has already been started in

the fabric.



1. YARN TESTING

PURPOSE: To determine the count of the yarn.

APPARATUS USED: a) Warp Reel

b) Digital Weighing Balance

PROCEDURE:

a) Take atleast five samples (yarn cone) of each batch.

b) Set the warp reel meter at zero position.

c) Make the lee in the machine for 80 revolutions. It comes total to 120 yards of yarn

(one turn is equal to 1.5 yard)

d) Take out samples and weigh them in the weighing balance individually.



CALCULATION:

a) Count = 64.8 / Weight of the lee. Take average count of five samples.

b) Count CV = S.D/ X! * 100 where S.D = √ ∑(x-x!)^ 2 / n

c) Tex = 590.5/ Count

2. TPI & TPM

PURPOSE: To determine the TPI and TPM of yarn.

APPARATUS USED: TPI tester

PROCEDURE: Take at least 5 samples.

CALCULATIONS:

a) TPI = Take the average of 5 samples

b) TPM = TPI/ √Count

3. COLOUR FASTNESS TEST

PURPOSE: To determine the colour fastness of coloured textile to crocking.

APPARATUS USED: Standard Crocking cloth of 5*5 cm.

Take 13*5 cm of test sample as test specimen.

Crock Meter

PROCEDURE:

DRY RUB



a) Place the test specimen flat on the crock meter on the long direction with the help of the

clamp.

b) Fix the standard Crock cloth in the finger of the Crock meter.

c) Lower the covered finger on the test specimen and rub against the specimen for 10

turns.

d) Then unclip the crock cloth and assess the colour staining of the crock with the help

of the grey scale.

WET RUB

a) Place the test specimen flat on the crock meter on the long direction with the help of

the clamps.

b) Wet the standard crock cloth by dipping it in distilled water taken in a clean beaker.

c) Fix the standard crock cloth I the finger of the crock meter.

d) Lower the covered finger on to the test specimen and rub against the specimen for

10 turns.

e) Then unclip the crock cloth and dry it at 60^ C and assess the colour staining in the

cloth with the help of grey scale.

4. COLOR MATCHING TEST

PROCESS: Colour matching

APPARATUS USED: Light Box

PANTONE COLOR PLANNER (TCX, TC)

PROCEDURE:

There are matching cabinets where the colour matching is done. The fabric is placed under

various light conditions and then compared with the standard and graded accordingly. The

standards used here are from the PANTONE COLOR PLANNER which has TCX and TC as



their two standard editions which are used in GINNI. The book is priced at Forty Five thousand

rupees only.

5. TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

PURPOSE: To determine the tensile strength and seam slippage of the fabric

APPARATUS USED: TITAN TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

PROCEDURE:

a) Two samples of fabric are taken

b) The sample was placed between the jaws of the machine

c) The lower jaw of the machine is fixed while the upper jaw is movable

d) The fabric samples are then stretched both longitudinally and widthwise for warp and

weft testing respectively

e) A force of around 3000 N is applied by the upper jaw while stretching the fabric.

f) The point of the maximum tolerance of the fabric is noted down.



6. BEESLEY BALANCE

PURPOSE: To determine the count of the fabric

APPARATUS USED: BEESLEY BALANCE

PROCEDURE:

a) A thread sample from the fabric is taken

b) The thread is of predetermined length

c) The thread sample is then weighed in the balance

d) The count of the thread is determined by using the following definition

e) The count of the fabric is equal to No. of 840 yards in one pound of the yarn.

7. RUBBING FASTNESS TESTER

PURPOSE: To determine the colour fastness of the fabric to rubbing

APPARATUS USED: a) Crockmeter

b) Grey Scale

PROCEDURE:

a) A sample piece of the fabric of 10x5 is taken

b) Two white fabric samples are taken , one wet and the other dry.

c) The sample fabric is fixed and the dry white sample is attached to the nip of the Crockmeter.

d) The nip is then moved to and fro with a downward force of 9 N in 10 cycles

e) Step d is repeated with a wet sample of the white fabric

f) The sample fabric is then compared with the grey scale.

g) The fading of colour is hence determined.



8. GSM BALANCE

PURPOSE: To determine the GSM and GLM of the fabric.

APPARATUS USED: GSM BALANCE

PROCEDURE:

a) The fabric sample is taken of predetermined dimensions.

b) The fabric sample is then weighed in the GSM balance

c) The GSM and GLM are then calculated using the following formula.

FORMULA

GSM = Weight of the fabric (in grams)/ Area of the fabric

GLM = Width of the fabric x GSM/ 100

9. pH Meter

PURPOSE: To determine the colour fastness of the fabric to acidic perspiration

APPARATUS USED: PERSPIROMETER

PROCEDURE:

a) A fabric sample of known dimensions are taken

b) Another multifibre sample is taken of the same dimensions.

c) Both the fabric samples are taken and then stitched

d) The fabric samples are then soaked in water and then in ISO acid solution for 15 min.

e) It is also subjected to an alkaline solution according to the requirements.

f) The samples are then soaked in AATCC acidic solution

g) The samples are then taken finally to the Perspirometer to check the colour fading as

compared to the grey scale.



10. SNUGGING & PILLING TESTER

PURPOSE: To check the abrasion and pilling on fabric

APPARATUS: ORBITOR pilling tester

PROCEDURE:

a) Two fabric samples of different diameters are taken.

b) One fabric sample is taken and placed on the plate of the machine.

c) The second sample is taken and fixed on the revolving plate of the tester.

d) The apparatus is then kept in position and samples are rubbed against each other

for 100 revolutions or as required.

e) The pilling card is then used to match against the original fabric.

f) The rating is done between 1-5

9) TEAR STRENGTH TESTER

PURPOSE: To measure the force required to continue a tear which has already been

started in the fabric.

APPARATUS USED: TEAR STRENGTH TESTER

PROCEDURE:

a) A rectangular sample of fabric is taken

b) A cut is made in a rectangular sample to form two "tongues"

c) The reference lines are marked to indicate the point the tear is to be continued to.

d) One tongue is then placed in the upper jaw of a tensile tester, the other tongue in the

lower jaw.

e) The two jaws opened to continue the tear to the reference line.

f) The average tear strength is then calculated



10. PERSPIROMETER

PURPOSE: determination of color fastness of fabric, cloth, to water, seawater and

perspiration.

APPARATUS: PARAMOUNT perspirometer

PROCEDURE: A compound specimen is used to soak in artificial perspiration resolution

(separately in acid and alkali) completely. Natural dry for 30 minutes, then use this

tester to apply a constant pressure. The specimen is then put in 37ºC drying oven for 4

hours. The specimen is removed, left to completely dry, then compared with a gray

scale to evaluate the perspiration-resistance level. (Suitable for all fiber).

11. SWATCH CUTTER



PURPOSE: Used to cut any kind of fabric in any shape and size instantly &

conveniently.

APPARATUS: PARAMOUNT Swatch Cutter

PROCEDURE: the swatch cutter has a bearing drive circular blade which is at right

angle rail for parallel swatch cutting. It also includes the feature of Laser alignment

cutting. Finally a Scale cutting mat for speedy measurement



Dyeing

The cloth is issued by the grey godown department. It is then sent for singeing and desizing

and then for bleaching and scouring.

Greige Room

No. of machines - 9

Types of machines - Greige opening machine

Brand - Ranson’s

- Copiwala

This machine is used for the opening of the fabric in the greige form. The fabric is taken up

from the rolls and is opened in trolleys. Every roll has a bale slip consisting of – slot no.,

meters, gross weight, net weight, packed by, no. of pieces, sale no., MTRL, sort no. chk no. ,

sales order, purchase order and packing order in meters.

In the Greige room, each opening machine is provided with a Kosha overlock machine, used to

join the edges of the rolls of the fabric. The fabric rolls are joined to attain a length equivalent

to the required length which is usually 4000-5000 meters depending on the GSM of the fabric.

The fabric wound on the rolls is of 200-300 meters in length. The rolls are joined in order to

create batches for processing. After the processing is done they are again cut and packed into

rolls of desired lengths.

Singeing and Desizing



No. of machines - 5

1. Singeing Desizing machine (pad-steam) - Osthoff

2. Singeing Desizing machine (pad-steam) - Benninger

3. Singeing machine (pad-batch) - Osthoff

After being opened by the greige department, the fabric is sent for singeing and desizing. The

singeing desizing machine consists of two parts, one for singeing and the second part for

desizing. The fabric is fed to the gas singeing machine through guide rolls. The guide rolls are

provided to keep the fabric aligned in the centre. The fabric is passed through the gas burners

in such a way that both sides of the fabric come in contact with the flame. This flame burns the

protruding fibers from the fabric surface, thus giving a smooth surface to the fabric. Utmost

care is taken while singeing the fabric as it can get degraded by the flame of the gas burner. If

the fabric does not have the desired tension then there is a possibility of it getting burnt by the

flame.

The fabric, just after singeing, is passed through the trough containing desize liquor at a

temperature of 620C to 800C. The desize liquor is prepared in a tank containing enzymes (of

desired quantity as per the requirements of the buyer), wetting agent, sequestering agent,

stabilizer, hydrogen peroxide and caustic soda. All these chemicals are mixed in 1500 liters of

water and then this mixture is sent to the desize bath. Approximately 2000-3000 meters of

fabric can be desized from 1500 liters of the liquor. While desizing, the pick up of the fabric is

90%. The speed of the fabric is 110m/min. The production capacity of the machine is approx.

162,000 meters per day. After desizing, the fabric, in form of rolls, is kept for 8 hours and is

rotated continuously in order to give reaction time for the enzymes to react over the size matter

and disintegrate it; also the chemicals do not coagulate at one particular area, as it will

degrade the fabric.

Bleaching



Bleaching is done to remove the natural grey color of the fabric so as to obtained white color

before dyeing which is very important to achieve the right color shade on the fabric on dyeing.

This process is carried out on a separate machine. This company uses Hydrogen peroxide for

the purpose of bleaching.

The main ingredients of the bleaching bath include H2O2 (8%-full bleach), wetting agent (1%),

NaOH (2-5%) and stabilizer for H2O2 (1%). The process is carried out at a temperature of 90-

100 degree Celsius for 2-3 hours.

Bleaching is of two types –

1) Half bleaching

2) Full bleaching

If the fabric is to be dyed in very dark colors, half-bleach is carried out by halving most of the

ingredients of bleaching. In the case of the fabric being dyed black, the process of bleaching is

totally avoided. Full bleaching is carried out for fabrics were pastel shades and bright shades

are intended to be achieved.



The fabric is automatically unwounded and then reversed for uniform dyeing. The cloth is

reversed again after the dyeing procedure is completed.

Three types of fabric is dyed

1. Open width fabric

2. Tubular fabric with spandex

3. Tubular fabric without spandex

The tubular fabric with spandex is split open and then heat set as the presence of spandex

prevents the uniform penetration of dyes. Then the fabric is overlocked for the further dyeing

process.

Dyeing of tubular and open width is done using the same method as per cotton fabric dyeing

requirements.

High Temperature High Pressure (HTHP) Dyeing Machines

These machines are imported from Germany.

While atmospheric pressure dying machines are used for cotton, HTHP machines are used

specifically for polyester (but can also be used to dye cotton).

The temperature in this machine can go upto 140-160 degree Celsius along with increased

pressure.

While dyeing cotton, the time is greatly reduced with the expense being increased

.



BATCH DYEING PROCESS:

Batch Dyeing Process is the most popular and common method used for dyeing of textile

materials. Batch dyeing is also sometimes referred to as Exhaust dyeing. This is because in

this process, the dye gets slowly transferred from a comparatively large volume dyebath to the

substrate or material that is to be dyed. The time taken is also longer. The dye is meant to

'exhaust' from dyebath to the substrate.

In batch processes, textile substrates can be easily dyed at any stage of their assembly into

the desired textile product. This includes fibre, yarn, fabric or garment. Some type of batch

dyeing machines can function at temperatures only up to 1000oC. For example cotton, rayon,

nylon, wool etc. can be dyed at 1000oC or lower temperatures.

Jet dyeing

Fabric is placed in a heated tube where jets of dye solution are forced through it at high

pressures. The fabric too moves along the tube. The solution moves faster than the cloth while

coloring it thoroughly.



PROCEDURE FOR DYEING:

1. Fabric is sent to the color lab. A sample of 1 m from each batch is sent and a recipe is

created for the suitable dye and approved by the fabric dyeing department.

2. The ratio of quantities of the dye stuff is calculated according to the weight of the fabric

required for bulk production.

3. The dye solution (for bulk dyeing) is sent to the lab for matching.

4. Dyeing is carried out using VAT or Reactive dyeing method

PROCEDURE FOR VAT DYEING:

1. A dispersion of the vat dye is created.

2. This is padded on to the fabric and excess dye is squeezed out.

3. The fabric is then sent to the pad dry machine. It is then dried and stored.

4. Next, steaming of the fabric is done in the pad steam machine, which increases the rate

of reaction of dye uptake.

5. Reduction takes place which converts the insoluble vat into a soluble leuco compound.

6. Then oxidation takes place in the peroxide chamber which converts the leuco

compound back to its insoluble form.

7. Soaping removes the extra dye stuff, washes and cleans the fabric.

8. Finally, neutralization takes place and the fabric is rolled onto batches.



PROCEDURE FOR REACTIVE DYEING:

1. Dyeing is done through CPB (cold pad batch).

2. Fabric is padded and taken out wet.

3. The fabric batch is then rotated for about 16 hours for the reaction to take place

between the dye and the fiber molecules.

4. Washing of the fabric is done without steaming in the soaping process.

5. Neutralization takes place and the fabric is rolled onto batches.

The machines used for dyeing are State of the art Thies high temperature high pressure soft

flow dyeing machine model ECO-MASTER. Vessel Capacity varies from 40kgs to 1080kgs.

PADDER

In the padding stage the fabric is wet by the dyeing solution. Then as the fabric is passed

through the two rolls the excess liquid is squeezed out. Then the fabric is dried using one of

several processes.

RELEX DRYER

This is employed to completely dry the tubular fabric. It also stretches out and presses out the

dyed fabric. A large volume of air, circulated with the help of specially positioned well designed

jets, with removable nozzles, enables drying of fabrics in between Teflon – Glass Conveyors in

the shortest possible time and with an effect, almost similar to Tumbling effect.



STENTER

1. Padding of finishing chemical

2. Bow-bias correction i.e. weft straightening

3. Fabric width controlling

4. Drying

This is basically a smoothing out of the cloth. Because after bleaching, or any wet process, the

cloth will get wrinkled or creased. Stentering (done by "stenterers") removes these bumps.



COMPACTION

Compaction is similar to calendaring in wovens. The steps involved are:

a. A roller for centering unit

b. Weft straightener device for skew(2 rollers) or bowing(2 rollers) adjustments

c. Over feed rollers

d. Gumming by Poly vinyl alcohol (PVA)

e. IR heater to dry the gum (temp. maintained at 300C.)

f. Cutter to remove the curls at the ends

g. 2 woollen felts heated through cylinders(135C.) heated by steam to provide

backside and front side compaction

h. 2 Teflon shoes to give desired pressure in percentage as per the requirement

of the fabric quality.



INSPECTION

DEFECTS PRESENT IN THE FABRIC

Abrasion mark

Barre

Bow

Coarse end/pick

Color fly (fly waste)

Coarse end/ pick

Dead cotton (trash)

Double end/pick

End out

Fine end

Hole

Jerk-in

Loose/tight course

Needle line

Pills

Alien (foreign) fiber

Bird’s eye

Color bleeding/ staining

Broken end/pick

Color smear

Crease mark

Doctor streak

Dropper stitch

Filing bar

Fuzzy

Weavy cloth.

Harness Misdraw (reed

Misdraw )

Knot

Mispick

Mis register ( out or

register )

Open read ( reed mark )

Sanforising mark

Set mark ( stop mark)

Skew

Slub

Snag

Stain

Temple mark

Tight end/pick

Uneven dyeing

Warp streak

Wrinkle

Scalloped selvage

Shuttle mark ( trapped

shuttle )

Slack end/pick

Slug

Soiled end/filling/yarn

Thick /thin place

Thin filing/end

Tight (slack/wavy) selvage

Uneven weaving





ACCEPTABILITY OF ROLL

Fabric shipments exceeding the following points totals are considered to be second

quality and are not acceptable

o Warp knits – avg. 15 points per 100 linear yard

o Blends weft knit yarns - avg. 15 points per 100 linear yard

o Synthetic Woven - avg. 15 points per 100 linear yard

o Twills, cotton, linens - avg. 20 points per 100 linear yard

o Body mapping - avg. 0 points per 100 linear yard

o Flat Knit Rib - avg. 0 points per 100 linear yard

o Engineering prints - avg. 0 points per 100 linear yard

Defect calculation = Total defects/Total linear yards x 100

No individual roll is considered of first quality if the point is greater than 20per 100 linear yard.

INSPECTION EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS

o Flat surface/viewing area

o Variable speed drive and yardage or meter counter

o Under carriage light

o Overhead light

o Clean inspection frame free of any sharp edges that would damage fabric

o Tension free positive driven machines for knitted fabrics

Inspection speed not to exceed 20 yards per min.

Inspection Lighting

o Examination and grading is performed with overhead direct light

o Overhead direct lighting mounted parallel to the viewing surface

o Inspection frame tilted to left fabric pass at an angle of 40-60 to the horizontal



o Overhead CWF lighting should be provided for an illumination level of a minimum

of 100 foot candels (1075 LUX) on the surface of fabric

o Backlight only should be used on an exception basis for specific fabric types and

faults.

o In no case fabric should be rejected for faults only visible with the backlight if

The fabric is not visible in garment form as would normally be worn

The fault will not cost the fabric or garment to fail in its use

550 tonnes of monthly inspection is projected

Around 18 tonnes of fabric is daily received out of which 17 tonnes are inspected and 13

tonnes are packed.

Up to date 418.3 tonnes of fabric has been packaged in the month

The major defects that occur are rope marks and patchy.

The inspection is also performed depending on the urgencies of the orders



PACKAGING

Packaging is carried out in the ground floor using an automatic packaging machine from Testa.

The steps involved in the packaging are as follows:

i) Loading of the roll

ii) Scanning of the label

iii) Wrapping with plastic and cutting

iv) Sealing of the package through heated coils

v) Roll is rotated and hot air is blown so that the plastic sticks together

vi) Label sticking

vii) Dispatching



Eight different types of fabric can be packed at a time as the unloading is spread across 4

trolleys in either side of the conveyor belt.

Process Machine

Heat Setting

Interlocking Juki M8o-665 Flatlock

Dyeing ECO MASTER

HT/HP Dyeing Machine, Capacity

1080Kgs

ECO MASTER

HT/HP Dyeing Machine, Capacity 360Kgs

Padding Hiper - Stretch

Ballon Padding Machine

Drying (Tubular) Hiper - Shrink

Relax Dryer

Drying (Open Width) StenMech STENTER

Carriers SINTEX

Compaction FAB - CON

Shoe type Compacting Machine



Learning Experience

Interning at the Textile manufacturing giant organization like GINNI FILAMENTS for two weeks is

good platform for any internee who is pursuing a career in the field of garment and textiles. It was

really a nice and informative learning experience.

As an internee, it was really a matter of surprise to acknowledge the well managed system of the

huge infrastructure of Ginni Filaments, which is responsible for handling human resource, machine

and the material in abundance and round the clock in a year to produce world class cotton fabrics.

It was the first time we had an opportunity to get exposed to such a vast Textile Industry where

the latest technology and the latest machines are being used. We also had a nice experience to

see and understand the concepts and working of automated spinning unit . We had an

opportunity to see the Ginni Filaments laboratory where world standard testing is done.

Indeed, it was an amazing learning experience which we will be cherishing forever including the

time spent at the canteen of the Ginni Filaments which served us with delicious food and will

never forget the freezing cold days spent there making it a learning aspect overall .



Acknowledgement

As a student of Apparel Manufacturing and Information Technology, we had learnt different stages

involved in the manufacture of a fabric and then to garments in theoretical manner. Through this

textile internship we could co-relate the things and understood the practical implications of all the

processes involved in a textile industry.

This two weeks internship though was not our first visit to any textile industry but was very useful since

information of every process involved starting from cotton in bales form to the finished fabric in dyed

form were gathered in practical manner which has helped us to understand the processes more

clearly .

It was a great experience working as a group and interacting with different people and getting the

useful information on various departments and their functions & systems.

We are thankful to Mr.S.N.Sharma (General Manager[P&A]) , Mr. Aswani Kamra (AGM

Production) ,Mr. A.Ramakrishnan (DGM) , Mr. Sorabh Kohli , Mr. Anil Sharma , Mr. Tapan Biswal , Mr.

Arvind Singh , Mr. Pankaj Dalal , Mr. Puneet Arora and Mr. Nitin Saraswat (Welfare Officer) who guided

us every second towards the work and gave their support and knowledge from the grass root level of

the industry .



Bibliography

1. Textiles-Fiber to fabric

By- Bernard P.Corbman

2. Textiles Terms and Definitions

Compiled by: The Textile Institute Textile Terms and

Definitions Committee

3. Handbook of Textiles

By-P.V.Vidyasagar

4. Textile Warp Sizing

By-Dr.Paul V Seydal

5. Fabric Science

By- Arthur Price, Allen C Cohen, Ingrid Johnson

6. Encyclopedia of Textiles

By-P V Vidyasagar

7. Textile Weaving and Design

By- W S Murphy

8. Technology of Dyeing

By Dr. V.A.Shenai

9. Mechanism of Spinning Machines

By-R.S.RengasamyNIFT Bangalore / DFT 2008-12 /Abhishek , Nishant Kumar


II. Internet:

1. www.ginnifilaments.com


Documents

Internship Report (Ginni Filaments)