Global shipments of new short-staple spindles and open-endrotors increased by 1.5% and

13% in 2018, respectively. The num-ber of shipped draw-texturing spin-dles rose by 50% and deliveries ofshuttleless looms improved by 39%.

Shipments of long-staple spin-dles, circular knitting machines, andelectronic flat knitting machinesdecreased by 27%, 4% and 20%,respectively.

In the finishing segment, the sumof machines shipped worldwide in thecategory "fabric continuous" and"fabric discontinuous" fell by 0.5%and 1.5% year-on-year, respectively.

These are the main results of the41st annual International TextileMachinery Shipment Statistics

(ITMSS) released by theInternational Textile ManufacturersFederation (ITMF). The report coverssix segments of textile machinery,namely spinning, draw-texturing,weaving, large circular knitting, flatknitting and finishing.

The 2018 survey has been com-piled in cooperation with more than200 textile machinery manufacturersrepresenting a comprehensive meas-ure of world production.

Spinning machineryThe total number of shipped

short-staple spindles increased byabout 126,000 units to a level of 8.66million. Shipments increased for thesecond consecutive year, but theglobal trend slowed down. Most of

the new short-staple spindles (92%)were shipped to Asia and Oceaniawhere delivery decreased by 2%.

The most dynamic destinationsrecorded in 2018 were Korea,Turkey, Vietnam and Egypt withincreases of 834%, 306%, 290%,285%, respectively.

The six largest investors in theshort-staple segment were China,India, Uzbekistan, Vietnam,Bangladesh, and Indonesia.

Global shipments of long-staple(wool) spindles decreased from165,000 in 2017 to nearly 120,000 in2018. This effect was mainly drivenby a drop in deliveries to Asia andOceania (-48,000 units).

This region remained thestrongest destination for this type of

machinery but deliveries to Chinaand Iran dropped by 60%. Thebiggest investors were Turkey, Iran,China, Italy, and Vietnam.

Some 721,000 open-end rotorswere shipped worldwide in 2018. Thisrepresents an increase of 83,000units compared to 2017.

Ninety-one percent of global ship-ments went to Asia and Oceaniawhere the share to total deliveriesimproved by 20% to 658,000 rotors.However, China, the world's largestinvestor in open-end rotors,increased its investments by 7% in2018 while deliveries to Thailand,Malaysia, and Egypt rose by overthree times.

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Textile Machine ShipmentsAre Headed To Asia, Oceania

MakSteel Wire Healds Pvt. Ltd.Phone: +91 265 2632236, Email: maksteel@maksteelindia.com

Web: www.maksteelindia.com

Texturing machineryGlobal shipments of sin-

gle heater draw-texturingspindles (mainly used forpolyamide filaments)increased by 48% from near-ly 15,500 in 2017 to 22,800in 2018. With a share of91%, Asia and Oceania wasthe strongest destination forsingle heater draw-texturingspindles. China and Japanwere the main investors in

this segment with a share of68% and 11% of globaldeliveries, respectively.

In the category of doubleheater draw-texturing spin-dles (mainly used for poly-ester filaments) the positivetrend continues and globalshipments increased by 50%on an annual basis to about490,000 spindles. Asia'sshare of worldwide ship-ments grew to 93%.Thereby, China remained thelargest investor accounting

for 68% of global shipments.Surprisingly, India's

investments in texturingspindles dropped after 2011,after peaking to 90,000 unitsin 2011. Today, imports oftexturing spindles are around10,000 units.

Weaving machineryIn 2018, worldwide ship-

ments of shuttleless loomsincreased by 39% to133,500 units. Thereby,shipments of airjet and

waterjet looms increased by21% to 32,750 and 91% to69,240, respectively. Thedeliveries of rapier/projectilelooms dropped by 5% to31,560. The main destina-

tion for shuttleless looms in2018 was Asia and Oceaniawith 93% of all worldwidedeliveries. Ninety-two per-cent of all waterjet looms,83% of all rapier/projectilelooms, and 99% of all airjetlooms went to that region.The main investors wereChina and India in all threecategories. Deliveries ofweaving machines to the twocountries reached 81% oftotal deliveries. Turkey andBangladesh further played animportant role in therapier/projectile segmentwith a combined 18% ofglobal shipments.

Exports to Turkey show astrong growth trend since2009. From near zero levelsin 2009, Turkey's imports ofshuttleless looms went up to3000 units in 2013, and arecurrently at around 4000units.

Bangladesh too is invest-ing in its primary textile sec-tor. With the result that itsimports of shuttleless loomshas been going up after adip in 2011 and 2012. In2015, Bangladesh importedaround 8000 shuttlelesslooms. However, importshave slowed down, and in2018, stood at around 4000looms.

Circular and flat knittingmachinery

Global shipments of largecircular knitting machines fellby 4% to 26,300 units in2018. Asia and Oceania wasalso the world's leadinginvestor in this category with85% of all new circular knit-ting machines shipped to theregion. With 48% of world-wide deliveries, China wasthe largest investor. Indiaand Vietnam ranked secondand third with 2,680 and1,440 units, respectively.

In 2018, the segment ofelectronic flat knittingmachines decreased by 20%to around 160,000machines. Asia and Oceaniawas the main destination forthese machines with a shareof 95% of world shipments.China remained the world'slargest investor. The countrykept its global share of 86%of worldwide shipmentsdespite a decrease in invest-ments from 154,850 units to122,550 units.

Finishing machineryIn the segment of fabrics

continuous, shipments of

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Textile Machine ShipmentsAre Headed To Asia, Oceania....Contd. From Page 1

washing (stand-alone),singeing line, relaxdryers/tumblers, stenters,and sanforizers/compactersincreased in 2018 by 58%,20%, 9%, 3%, and 1%,respectively. Deliveries in theother sub-segmentsdecreased. In the category"fabrics discontinuous", ship-ments of airjet dyeingmachines increased by 16%and deliveries of overflowdyeing and jiggerdyeing/beam dyeingmachines fell by 7% and19% respectively.

Trends during ITMA 2019Visitorship from India

remained high, especially inspinning and related seg-ments. Investments inIndia's spinning sector haveslowed down, but areexpected to pick up signifi-cantly over the next fewyears.

There were many visitorsfrom Vietnam. Vietnam isgoing strong in its invest-ments - not just in garment-ing but also in the primarytextile sector. Interest wasespecially high in spinningtechnologies.

The current uncertainty inthe US-China trade relationskept many Chinese visitorsaway. The current thaw inUS-China relations could seea pike in interest and ordersduring the next ITMA Asia inShanghai.

Uzbek textile entrepre-neurs were present in largenumbers, scouting for textilemanufacturing technologies.The Uzbek government hasidentified textile and clothingindustry as a growth engine,and is supporting its devel-opment. The industry is fur-ther helped by Chineseinvestments. China's Belt &Road Initiative is alreadybringing in benefits for theUzbek industry and econo-my. Investments in the tex-tile industry will continue togrow in the coming years.

Bangladesh and Pakistantextile industry also turnedup at the show. Other impor-tant visitors were fromEurope and the Americas.

Future trendsAccording to ITMF, China

will remain an importantplayer in the textile andapparel manufacturingspace. While productioncosts in China are rising,they are still quite competi-tive. Labour cost is less thanUS$ 1 per unit of apparel.

While labour costs from 2005to 2017 have increased byaround 44%, apparel pro-duction during the timeincreased by 62.5%. China'sproductivity per person wentup by around 67% from2005-2017. And apparel

manufacturers' revenueswent up by 72% during thesame period.

So, it still remains prof-itable for Chinese entrepre-neurs to remain in the textilebusiness. China, as we know,is moving up the value chain,

and is also an important tex-tile technology manufacturertoday. If the BRI is evenpartly successful, logisticscosts for China and its sup-pliers would reduce signifi-cantly.

Meanwhile, domestic tex-

tile consumption in Asia'sleading markets is growingfast, and domestic playerswill invest to meet the grow-ing local demand.

It is estimated that inChina, textile fibre consump-tion was 20.1 kg per capita,which is expected to grow to29 kg per capita by 2030. InIndia, textile fibre consump-tion in 2017 was as low as5.8 kg per capita. This isexpected to reach 6.3 kg percapita in 2020, and 8.2 kgper capita by 2030. Theworld average in 2017 was12.5 kg per capita, going upto 15.2 kg per capita by2030.

In Europe, in 2017, tex-tile fibre consumption was22.4 kg per capita, which

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In The Public Eye 3

will go up to 29 kg percapita by 2030. And in NorthAmerica, per capita textilefibre consumption was 32.6kg in 2017, moving up to34.1 kg per capita by 2020,and 38.5 kg per capita by2030.

So, textile fibre consump-tion in China will grow themost - by 44% - during2017-2030. India's fibre con-sumpiton during the periodwill grow by 41.38%. Whilefibre consumption in Europeand North America willincrease by 29.46% and18.10% during the period.

This will be supported bythe strong growth in GDP percapita, both in India andChina. According to the ITMFreport, India's GDP per capi-ta will grow by 53.5% from2018 to 2023, while China'sGDP per capita will grow by50.5% during the sameyears. In comparison, GDPper capita growth in Europewill be 22.6% during theperiod, and in USA 15.1%.

GDP per capita growth inSub-Saharan Africa will be37.1% during the period.

An analysis of fibre pro-duction preferences showsthat polyester will remain thefibre of choice. According tothe ITMF report, global poly-ester (filament) fibre produc-tion is expected to increaseby 11%, from 35.49 milliontons in 2017, to 39.28 mil-lion tons in 2020. Polyesterstaple fibre production willincrease by 5% during thesefour years -from 16.76 mil-lion tons to 17.58 milliontons.

Cellulosic fibre productionwill grow significantly duringthis period. Cellulosic staplefibre production will increase19% to 5.10 million tons,and cellulosic filament fibreproduction will go up by 10%to 0.29 million tons by 2020.

Nylon filament and staplefibre production too are esti-mated to show strong growthof 14% and 11% during theperiod. Cotton fibre produc-

tion will go up by 2% to2020.

Textile technology devel-opers will need to look atthese trends to offer bettersolutions here.

Textile technology devel-opments

This ITMA saw the unveil-ing of many revolutionarytextile technologies across allsegments. Industry 4.0,interactive machines, dataanalytics, higher levels ofautomation and digitaliza-tion, were the basis of all

new development. Also, thefocus is very much on sus-tainability and rationaliza-tion. The trend is certainlytowards forcing mills tobecome more efficient,ensuring high and consistentlevels of quality and produc-tivity, predictive mainte-nance.

While textile processingand finishing is gettinggreener, developments indigital printing could signifi-cantly reduce the industry'scarbon footprint. Digitalprinting technology providers

are focussing on increasingprinting capacities to suitbulk printing needs. Thiswould mean lower printingcosts, resource savings, andhigher print qualities.

We take a look at some ofthe interesting developmentsshowcased at ITMA 2019, byfour textile technologyproviders.

Oerlikon debuts neweAFK Evo texturingmachine

Oerlikon's new eAFK Evotexturing machine, whichwas unveiled to selectedclients at the ITMA trade fairin Barcelona, has proven tobe a breakthrough in themanufacture of yarns. This isevidenced by leading globalyarn producer, UnifiManufacturing, Inc., whoplaced a significant order forthese revolutionarymachines on the first day ofthe trade fair.

Unifi collaborated withOerlikon to develop a spe-cially-designed eAFK Evopilot machine that has beenoperating for the last eightmonths, using it to manufac-ture various Unifiber virginand REPREVE®-brandedrecycled polyester andpolyamide yarns. Unifi hasobtained exclusive rights inthe Americas to their uniquedesign, which enables thenew machine to operate atconsiderably higher texturingspeeds, delivers consistentlyhigh-quality yarn across abroad range of products, andenables new, innovative per-formance yarns.

Cost-efficient production,reduced energy consump-tion

Oerlikon also exhibited aconfiguration of the eAFKEvo texturing machine atITMA, designed for the cost-efficient production of com-modity yarns. At just 4.7metres in height, this com-pact machine still comes witha four-deck winding system.The most important founda-tion for both machines is the3 0 0 - m i l l i m e t r e - l o n gEvoCooler with its activecooling technology.

The EvoCooler's control-lable cooling unit opens ahuge production window,with titers ranging fromaround 30 to 300 denier andincluding microfilaments;combining it with theEvoHeater increases textur-ing speed by about 20%.

The EvoCooler alsoenables extremely even yarndyeing and provides signifi-cant benefits using no addi-tional energy compared tocurrent offerings. With theoptimised, extremely ener-gy-efficient EvoHeater andits connected peripherals,the machine offers up to25% energy savings.

Digital textile printingexcellence

Digital textile printingpioneer, Epson unveiled its

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new Monna Lisa Evo Trerange and new Genesta pig-ment inks at ITMA 2019,demonstrating the latestEpson innovations for anevolving digital textile mar-ket.

The new Monna Lisa EvoTre range features EpsonPrecision Core Technology tooffer a complete solution forall textile market needs,from large scale, high speedproduction to small run, ondemand sample printing. AtITMA 2019, Epson show-cased its new Monna LisaEvo Tre 64 and Monna LisaEvo Tre 8, as well as itsMonna Lisa Evo Tre 32 (dis-played in the 16 channelconfiguration) and MonnaLisa Evo Tre 16.

Genesta PG-Revo arebreakthrough pigment inkswhich provide the textilemarket with high rub fast-ness and high print quality.This assures eco-friendlyperformances because thefabric does not need anypost-print treatment.

Monna Lisa Evo Tre 64 -Top quality and produc-tivity for high volume

The new flagship MonnaLisa Evo Tre scanning printerwith 64 Precision Core print-heads is built for high pro-ductivity (maximum printingspeed of 779 sqm/h) withoutcompromising the printingquality. Monna Lisa Evo Tre64's Precision Core technolo-gy combines quality, accura-cy and speed which providesthe maximum level of flexi-bility and reliability so that itis the right solution for adynamic and diversified tex-tile market. Monna Lisa Evo Tre 64 - KeyPoints:

Printheads: 64 EpsonPrecisionCore Printheads,that combine quality,accuracy and speed. Productivity: Up to 779m2/h (600x600 dpi; 2passes) withPrecisionCore MicroTFPprintheads. Resolution: Up to 1200dpi. Ink types: Genesta Acid,Reactive, Disperse andPigment.

Pailung's innovations incircular knitting

Here we look at two ofPailung's seven innovationsshowcased during ITMA2019.

SpacerSpacer is very common in

shoe materials and otherindustrial use, but it is rarelyused in apparels. In 2016, anintimate wear manufacturerwanted to create an under-wear that fits the femalebody curve and providesmore comfortable support,so they came to meetPailung with a collaborationrequest. Then, the SculptedSpacer was developed toprovide a changing-thicknessspacer fabric.

Through this technology,due to enhancing the knitta-bility, it gives more skin-friendly yarns. The SculptedSpacer with a changingthickness has replaced themolded one which reduceselasticity and bounce. Now itoffers jacquard and elimi-nates many procedures inthe past underwear produc-tion.

Eyelet Spacer was startedfrom innovating shoe upper

materials. Since the double-face eyelet spacer is knit bywarp machine, the fabric knitby warp machine hasstrength in structure butlacks tenderness.

In shoe upper field, com-fort is the priority, and sospacer in warp knit is not thebest choice.

In 2018, a shoe uppermanufacturer came toPailung OIL (OpenInnovation Lab) with a spe-

cific request, asking for dou-ble-face eyelet spacer knit bycircular knit. Through mucheffort, Pailung developedEyelet Spacer, it brings dou-ble-face eyelets to spacer,and provides the bestbreathability and comfort toshoe uppers.

Quadro Stretch The ideas of Quadra

Stretch came from the yogatrend for the past few years.

In 2013, an internationalbrand of yoga wear faced aproblem in knitting leggingsand wanted to find a solutionfrom Pailung.

After putting much effortin developing how to feedspandex into structure per-fectly, Pailung found the wayto solve problems in knitting4-way-extension fabrics.This development, throughhigh-rate spandex andextraordinary interlock struc-

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ture, delivers the ultimateextension to particular exer-cises which need more bodystretch. It gives the mostappropriate pressure to sup-port body muscles and offerswide-ranging properties toall sports.

In flat knit, QuadroStretch is adopted to beclose-fitting to body shapefor active wears.

In early 2018,OIL (OpenInnovation Lab) collaborated

with R&D department anddeveloped a knitting technol-ogy which gives 3D knittingeffects in body close-fit.Meanwhile, this technologyreplaces the labour-intensiveprocess of cut-and-sewwhich even cannot closely fitto shape.

Also, it brings the bestbreathability and comfort toindoor sports avoiding stuffi-ness. Moreover, the QuadroStretch gives a snug support

and is skin-friendly to wearers.

Santoni takes knitting toa new level

At ITMA 2019, Santonishowcased its very latestseamless circular knittingmachines, together with sockknitting machines, largediameter fabric knittingmachines, and also processfinishing machines.

Added to these are the

brand new, patented 'XMACHINE' and 'XT MACHINE'with their ingenious intarsiatechnology, a new automaticfinishing system for seam-less boxers, and the innova-tive 'K Fabric Project' thatintroduces a completely newtype of knitted textileprocess.

The updated versatileMec-Mor technology, with thetype Cmp2/Open and typeHP machines, are still theonly machines on the marketequipped with needle-shift-ing movement of the needlebeds, (= racking) a bi-direc-tional transfer on the samefeed allowing variable widthsof the knitted panel (=Variatex technology). Mec-Mor is known throughout theworld as the only alternativerange of machines that lookcircular but perform like a V-bed machine.

This unique technology,displayed on 20 gauge,enables the production ofweft double-face knitted gar-ments with high quality

designs and record produc-tion times.

This technology is alsoused to produce accessories,such as 3-D backpacks,where various yarns can beknitted into ad-hoc posi-tioned areas, in order toobtain a seamless structurethat guarantees superiorproduct performance. TheMec-Mor can manufacturesportswear performance gar-ments, knitted men's jacketsand various other eye-catch-ing products.

Recently, acclaimedfootwear brands have appre-ciated the wonderful shoeuppers created on the Mec-Mor bringing sharpness tohigh definition patterns, andthe flexibility to place logosand different structures prac-tically anywhere within theshoe upper. It can create theshoe upper structure in asingle operation, so reducingthe seams usually prevalentin standard footwear produc-tion cycle.