INCLUDES THE FIVE FAMILIES OF RIOJA · Exceptionally fine, fragrant and silky with long, sweet flavour, this has been carefully aged in oak and bottle to reach its enormous potential

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INCLUDES THE FIVE FAMILIES OF RIOJA

Fine Wines_May 2013/2.indd 2 26/03/2013 10:51

2 To order thewinesociety.com/fi newines 01438 740222 smartphone app

The questions our members ask about buying fine wine are precisely those our buyers ask themselves when it comes to selecting them, and this Fine Wine List illustrates some of The Society’s guiding principles.

DEFINE ‘FINE WINE’As a mutual with the single aim of sharing good wine – rather than investment opportunities, or label obsession – with our members, we think of fine wine as bottles of high quality, complexity and, sometimes, rarity that give the drinker an experience beyond the everyday and the basic. Between these covers, along with claret from the great 2005 vintage (page 17), domaine-bottled Côte de Nuits reds (page 14), growers’ Barolo (page 6) and top-drawer Hermitage from Guigal page 19, you’ll also find rather more buried treasure: white gold from Portugal (page 12), hidden gems from Argentina (page 11) and, opposite, our own crown jewels, fine English Fizz.

WHAT PRICE ‘FINE’ WINE?We believe that fine wine is not defined merely by price. Consider Denis Dubourdieu (page 9), grower and consultant winemaker, whose diverse interests may be explored from as little as £11.50. A budget of £15 struggles in classed-growth claret or Burgundy territory but secures five-star quality in South Africa (page 7). There is no shortage of smart, sub-£20 Small Wonders (page 15) and let’s not forget what value awaits in the sublime late-picked rieslings of the Mosel (2011 Spätlese, page 18). The Languedoc, now better appreciated, is still a region where little more than £10 is money very well spent and much less than £25 delivers stunning quality. A limited-edition case from Prieuré Saint-Jean de Bébian (page 19) exclusive to Society members, makes the point eloquently.

ARE WINES FROM OUTSIDE THE CLASSIC REGIONS WORTH KEEPING? A glance through this List shows that ripe old age is not just the preserve of Barolo, Bordeaux or the northern Rhône. Buyer’s Choice on page 5, where Sebastian Payne MW opts not just for gilt-edged classics but new discoveries that engage his palate, features an Australian shiraz that matches a younger Saint-Julien for longevity. The magnificent Argentine malbecs Mendel Unus and Teho Altamira (Classical Latin, page 11) comfortably outlive both. Time is money, and if someone else does the keeping, so much the better. The place to go for that, apart from The Wine Society, is Rioja (page 4), where strict laws on ageing deliver mature bottles at remarkably digestible prices.

WHEN SHOULD I BUY FINE WINE?It’s a matter of personal choice. Some members snap up a favourite property as soon as it’s released, others prefer to buy ready to drink. Some forward planners appreciate the convenience of our Vintage Cellar Plan (see thewinesociety.com/vintagecellarplan); others revel in combining Custom Cellars (page 18) with other listed bottles to make a highly personal collection. For the impatient, the fruits of The Society’s en-primeur purchases, matured at Stevenage until ready, are in our printed Lists. Late releases and irresistible grower parcels that come our way are better served by the speed and spontaneity of e-mail. The Society’s Fine Wine Hub

WHERE TO START?Ask The Society’s Fine Wine Advisers. FAQs are a start, but there’s no substitute for a good chat with a fellow wine enthusiast.

‘FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS’

How to use this Listl Wines are listed by theme and then by price

l Drink dates are given as a guide to maturity and ageing potential

l For further information about any of the wines, or Members’ Reserves, please contact Member Services on 01438 741177 or visit thewinesociety.com/membersreserves

l Fine wines too limited in quantity to be listed may be found in the fine wine section of The Society’s website at thewinesociety.com/finewines

CONTENTS page

ENGLISH SPARKLING WINE 3

RIOJA: FAMILY VALUES 4

BUYER’S CHOICE 5

BAROLO 2008 6

SOUTH AFRICA ON A PLATTER 7

THE WORLD OF DENIS DUBOURDIEU 9

ARGENTINA: CLASSICAL LATIN 11

PORTUGAL: THE WHITE SIDE 12

GEVREY, NUITS AND

CLOS DE VOUGEOT 14

SMALL WONDERS 15

2005 CLARET 17

CUSTOM CELLARS 18


thewinesociety.com/finewinehub has details of all our current offers.

3For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

xxENGLISH SPARKLING WINE

Fly the flag this seasonWimbledon, Henley and Glyndebourne are just three excuses to open bottles of English sparkling wine this summer. Below are five of the best from the country’s two top estates. Enjoy! Marcel Orford-Williams

J-SG1601 Ridgeview Bloomsbury, 2010 £21 bottle £252 dozen

A fine Sussex sparkler from the classic Champagne mix of chardonnay together with pinot noir and pinot meunier, which add depth and character. It has a lightness and elegance that make this the perfect aperitif. 12%

J-SG1621 Ridgeview Fitzrovia Rosé, 2010 £22 bottle £264 dozen

Light salmon pink in colour. Chardonnay dominates this English blend bringing freshness and finesse, whilst pinots noir and meunier add the delicious flavour of summer fruits. 12%

J-SG1631 Nyetimber Brut Classic Cuvée, 2008 £26 bottle £312 dozen

Full-flavoured sparkler made by the top English estate from the Sussex Downs. The blend is chardonnay dominated, with pinot noir and pinot meunier in support, just like the neighbouring region for sparkling wine from across the Channel. 12%

J-SG1551 Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs Brut, 2003 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Could the South Downs become the new Côte des Blancs? At Nyetimber they think so, which is why they’ve put so much emphasis on the chardonnay grape. 2003 was of course that extraordinary heatwave vintage and this is ripe and rich, with flavours of brioche and crystallised fruit. 12% (Low stock)

J-SG1541 Nyetimber Brut Rosé, 2008 £36 bottle £432 dozen

This is Nyetimber’s second pink vintage. The blend is 58% chardonnay and 42% pinot noir with the chardonnay giving lift and freshness to the wine. Salmon pink, lively and quite complex with cherry and a touch of strawberry. Exquisite. 12%


4

WHITEJ-SP8101 López de Heredia, Viña Gravonia, 2003 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

Dry, fragrant and nutty white Rioja made in the old-fashioned style of long barrel ageing. Gentle, honeyed and very stylish. Now to 2017. 13% Available from the end of April.

REDSJ-SP7121 The Society’s Exhibition Rioja Reserva, 2006 £12.50 bottle £150 dozen

Our popular Exhibition Rioja is elegant and smooth, made in the traditional style (aged for five years before release) by the famous La Rioja Alta bodega. Now to 2016. The 2007 follows. 13.5%

J-SP7761 Viña Amézola Reserva, Rioja, 2006 £16 bottle £192 dozen

From the family’s very best vineyard parcels, this is a round, supple and intense reserva which has spent 22 months in barrel. Now to 2016. 14%

J-SP6871 La Rioja Alta, Viña Arana Reserva, Rioja, 2004 £17 bottle £204 dozen

A perfect example of traditional Rioja. Scented and complex with delicious sweet fruit and soft palate. Matured for three years in barrel. Now to 2020. 13%

J-SP7981 La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial, Rioja, 2004 £18.50 bottle £222 dozen

Exceptionally fine, fragrant and silky with long, sweet flavour, this has been carefully aged in oak and bottle to reach its enormous potential. Now to 2020. 13.5%

J-SP7911 CVNE Imperial Reserva, Rioja, 2005 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Imperial is one of the big names of Spain. First produced in the 1920s, it is a true classic of Rioja. Now to 2021. 13.5%

J-SP6331 Contino Reserva, Rioja, 2007 £23 bottle £276 dozen

Elegant and scented with wonderful purity of flavour, this shows all the hallmarks of a great Contino vintage. Decant. Now to 2020. 14%

J-SP7571 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva, Rioja, 2005 £27.50 bottle £330 dozen

Muga make fine and elegant wines including this superb gran reserva made from grapes from mountain vineyards. This is one of the greatest of the traditionally farmed Riojas. Made from 80% tempranillo with 20% garnacha, mazuelo and graciano, it was aged for 36 months in barricas. Now to 2021. 13.5%

Exquisite wines from five of Rioja’s first familiesThere has never been a more exciting choice of fine wine from Rioja, where the legacy of the great family traditionalists continues to flourish. We have chosen five of the region’s most historic and quality-focused wine families to feature here: Muga, CVNE - Contino, Amezola, La Rioja Alta and López de Heredia. They are making some of Rioja’s most delicious and distinctive wines, and share a winemaking heritage that is unprecedented in Spain. Pierre Mansour

RIOJA: FAMILY VALUES

Discover more fi ne wines on our Fine Wine Hub winesociety.com/fi newinehub

FAMILIES OF RIOJA CASE £119

Drink now to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle of the following:

Viña Amézola Reserva, Rioja, 2006Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva, Rioja, 2005CVNE Imperial Reserva, Rioja, 2005La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial, Rioja, 2004Contino Reserva, Rioja, 2007La Rioja Alta, Viña Arana Reserva, Rioja, 2004

ref J-MX13110


5To receive our annual en-primeur offers of Bordeaux, Burgundy or Rhône 01438 741177

BUYER’S CHOICE

WHITESJ-IT15791 Barthenau Vigna San Michele Pinot Bianco, 2010 (Hofstätter) £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

Pinot blanc is a favourite Hofstätter grape and they make it supremely well. This is the top wine of Hofstätter’s Barthenau estate in Alto Adige. An alpine equivalent to fine white Burgundy with the same depth of flavour and richness. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-GE7741 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, 2004 (JJ Prüm) £24 bottle £288 dozen

JJ Prüm wines need patience before revealing their full beauty and complexity. This 2004 is now perfect to drink with floral enchanting aroma and crisp deliciously appetising palate. It will be good for many more years. Now to 2020. 8.5%

REDSJ-IT16691 Uvaggio Coste della Sesia, 2009 £16.50 bottle £198 dozen

Luca de Marchi is doing wonderful things with nebbiolo on this small family estate at Lessona in northern Piedmont. A wine of lovely finesse and silky palate with a richer palate than the 2008 because of the smaller crop. Now to 2016. 13%

J-BU35641 Monthélie Les Duresses, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, 2005 £21 bottle £252 dozen

The lesser-known, and more gently priced, village next to Volnay is the source of much pleasure for true Burgundy-lovers, especially in the glorious 2005 vintage. I have been enjoying this fine-boned red before its time, but the more restrained will find it will keep awhile. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-CM16431 Les Fiefs de Lagrange, 2010, Saint-Julien £24 bottle £288 dozen

The team at Lagrange rightly considers 2010 to be the property’s best vintage ever. The second wine, Fiefs, which represents half of the crop, is great value and so well balanced that it is lovely to drink now, though it will keep beyond ten years. Now to 2022. 13.5%

J-AU15391 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, 2006, Barossa £39 bottle

Robert O’Callaghan’s legendary Australian shiraz is in a class of its own. This highly individual wine is dense and velvety, balancing ripe cassis and savoury flavours with incredible length. Now to 2021. 14.5% Six bottles only per member.

Sebastian Payne MW, a buyer with The Society for almost 30 years, selects six of his current favourite bottles For me, top riesling shows its true class only with bottle age and this nine-year-old Wehlener from JJ Prüm now makes a perfect aperitif. The Alto Adige makes wonderfully fresh Alpine whites. Hofstätter has long been a champion of the underrated pinot blanc grape and this barrel-aged version is particularly satisfying. Uvaggio from the infectiously enthusiastic Luca de Marchi, son of Isole e Olena’s Paolo de Marchi, shows that this half-forgotten corner of north Piedmont makes graceful silky-textured red to challenge Burgundy and my wife and I love it as well as the 2005 Monthélie, another underrated part of the Côte d’Or. Rocky O’Callaghan’s 1990 Basket Press is a legend in our household and this eccentric down-to-earth maestro continues to deliver the goods. Château Lagrange probably made their best vintage ever in 2010 and their second wine is a snip at the price. Sebastian Payne MW

SEBASTIAN PAYNE MW’S SELECTION £137

Drink 2014 to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.

ref J-MX13111


6 For small parcels of fi ne bin ends winesociety.com/fi newinebinendsMembers’ Reserves offers the best-value storage in the country

thewinesociety.com/membersreserves

J-IT16231 Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d’Alba, 2008 £22 bottle £264 dozen

Full-bodied, velvety and well balanced with true spicy, rose-scented bouquet of good Barolo from a fine vineyard in a ripe vintage. Fontanafredda is back on form. Now to 2018. 14%

J-IT16821 Ciabot Berton Barolo Roggeri, 2008 £23 bottle £276 dozen

The Oberto family make well-structured Barolo with satisfying depth of flavour which in 2008 is matched by the grace and charm of the vintage. So this will keep well but is already lovely to drink. Now to 2020. 13%

J-IT16281 GB Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero, 2008 £28 bottle £336 dozen

A delightful expression of Barolo at its most fragrant and harmonious. The bouquet is intense and the palate seductively silky. It comes from the best site of Verduno, the grapes being foot trodden in the traditional manner. Now to 2020. 14.5% (Low stock)

J-IT16681 Silvano Bolmida Barolo Bussia, 2008 £29 bottle £348 dozen

An unusually talented winemaker with vines in one of Barolo’s greatest crus, combine to make a beautiful Barolo of wonderful elegance and class at a great price for the quality. Now to 2020. 14.5%

J-IT16401 Poderi Colla Barolo Dardi le Rose Bussia, 2008 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Beautiful, stylish, scented Barolo with finely balanced long-lasting flavour. Now to 2020. 14.5%

J-IT16341 Lessona, 2008, Proprieta Sperino £40 bottle £480 dozen

Sensational fine-quality nebbiolo, outshining most Barolos for balance, elegance and charm, with the intense velvety texture of fine Burgundy. Made with passion by Luca de Marchi at the small family estate in the small town of Lessona in north Piedmont. Now to 2020. 13.5%

The following older vintage wines are only available in the mixed Mascarello Collection case J-MX13106

Mascarello Barolo, Santo Stefano, 2007 A superb example of this lovely vintage with great perfume complex full-bodied flavour

with natural richness and extract. Delicious already. Now to 2020. 14.5%

Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, 2006 Stunning quality in this vintage with wonderfully aromatic ripe and gentle flavour. This is

a wine which will give pleasure early, in middle and in old age. Mauro Mascarello was able to pick slowly in October so all the grapes were in perfect condition. 2015 to 2030. 13.5%

Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, 2004 Classic Barolo from a great vineyard. This is a lovely vintage but one that deserves and

will repay keeping. 2014 to 2025. 13.5%

BAROLO 2008: FINESSE AND CHARM, NOW

The nebbiolo grape of Barolo has the deserved reputation of making Italy’s grandest red wines but rather like Burgundy, which is similarly dominated by a host of relatively small family wineries, it can be a minefield. Fashion has made some addresses frankly overpriced, over-oaked and sometimes over-tannic but, we believe, the growers listed below give genuine value for their quality. The American market loved the big, ripe 2007s but 2008s have more finesse and charm and often gentler tannins which make them delicious to drink now.

Mauro Mascarello is one of the legends of Barolo making wonderfully individual fragrant wines capable of very long life. Three older vintages are offered below in a mixed case for cellaring. Sebastian Payne MW


7Members’ Reserves offers the best-value storage in the country

thewinesociety.com/membersreserves

South Africa’s Platter’s Guide is one of the most comprehensive, well-written, and objective wine guides any professional or amateur could hope for: a wine trade ‘bible’ we have tried to persuade them to replicate elsewhere in the world! The coveted five stars are not handed out lightly. Among over 900 wine producers, merchants and brands, and more than 7,300 locally produced wines, reviewed for the 2013 edition, just 62 wines were awarded five stars. Outstanding producers are recognised too, and 2013 Winery of the Year, Cape Chamonix, was the only producer to win four five-star ratings (all of which feature below). Jordan Estate and the Sadie Family, also featured, won two apiece. Our small, eclectic five star selection below offers a taste of some of the truly great wines South Africa is producing today. Joanna Locke MW

Please note: We have a tiny allocation of Eben Sadie’s other extraordinary Old Vine bottlings, which can be found at thewinesociety.com/finewines

WHITEJ-SA8341 Chamonix Reserve white, Franschhoek, 2011 (Cape Chamonix) £10.95 bottle £131 dozen

Produced exclusively from estate fruit grown at 450 metres above sea level, this was fermented and matured in French barrels, mostly older oak, for structure rather than flavour. An elegant, beautifully balanced wine made to be enjoyed with food. Now to 2016. 13.5% (Low stock)

J-SA8511 Botanica Chenin Blanc, Citrusdal, 2011 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

Exquisite and refined chenin from a new producer whose first vintage (2009) also won 5 Platter stars. Minimal intervention in the cellar respects the integrity of the fruit, which comes from a Clanwilliam vineyard at 800m above sea level and vines of around 50 years of age. A beauty from new talent Virginia Povall. Now to 2015. 13%

J-SA8321 Chamonix Reserve Chardonnay, Franschhoek, 2011 (Cape Chamonix) £14.50 bottle £174 dozen

100% estate-grown fruit from the beautiful Chamonix property above Franschhoek, this is Gottfried Mocke’s top chardonnay, naturally barrel fermented but restrained in style, and with fresh, lemony acidity. Now to 2018. 13.5% (Low stock)

SOUTH AFRICA ON A PLATTER

THE MASCARELLO COLLECTION £389

Drink 2015 to 2020

A six-bottle case containing two bottle of the following:

Mascarello Barolo, Santo Stefano, 2007Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, 2006Mascarello Barolo Monprivato, 2004

ref J-MX13106

BAROLO 2008 £169

Drink now to 2018

A six-bottle case containing a bottle of each of the following:

Poderi Colla Barolo Dardi le Rose Bussia, 2008Ciabot Berton Barolo Roggeri, 2008Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d’Alba, 2008GB Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero, 2008Silvano Bolmida Barolo Bussia, 2008Lessona, 2008, Proprieta Sperino

ref J-MX13107



WHITEJ-SA8261 Beaumont Hope Marguerite, Bot River, 2011 £16 bottle £192 dozen

The Beaumont family’s top chenin, named after winemaker Sebastian Beaumont’s grandmother, is on stellar form. A fine example of elegantly barrel-fermented chenin blanc, retaining all the purity and freshness of this most adaptable of grapes. Now to 2015. 12.5%

J-SA8011 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde, 2011 £18.50 bottle £222 dozen

The vineyards are maritime influenced, thanks to the Walker Bay region’s proximity to the ocean, and cool. The wine is traditionally vinified and classically styled, and right back on form in this excellent South African vintage. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-SA8441 Jordan Estate Nine Yards Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, 2011 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Top-notch chardonnay from Gary and Kathy Jordan, whose full nine yards for this wine included hand harvesting, fermentation with part-wild yeast in mostly new, small French oak barrels, lees ageing for 12 months, regular rolling of the barrels, before a final barrel selection worthy of their flagship white. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-SA8451 Skurfberg, Old Vine Series, Olifantsrivier, 2011 (Sadie Family) £28 bottle £336 dozen

Bushvine chenin blanc from three different vineyard sites on the slopes of the Skurfberg in northern Olifantsriver, vinified and matured for 12 months apart, then blended before six months further élevage in old oak casks. A wine of extraordinary density, richness, creamy texture, and life. Now to 2017. 14.5% (Low stock)

REDJ-SA8361 Chamonix Greywacke Pinotage, Franschhoek, 2010 (Cape Chamonix) £11.50 bottle £138 dozen

A richly flavoured and textured dry red made in the style of an Italian Ripasso, by combining fresh wine with fermenting, air-dried grapes. Now to 2018. 14% (Low stock)

J-SA8331 Chamonix Reserve Pinot Noir, Franschhoek, 2011 (Cape Chamonix) £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

Cape Chamonix is renowned for the quality of its pinot, which is classically styled, lighter in colour than many new world pinots, always fragrant, and develops more leafy aromas as it matures. Now to 2017. 13.5% (Low stock)

J-SA7451 Warwick Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch, 2009 £16 bottle £192 dozen

Warwick’s occasional single-varietal cabernet franc bottlings are hard to come by. This is from the excellent 2009 vintage. Rich and smoky, with hints of creamy oak. Drink now if you like robust fruit still couched in oak flavours, or cellar happily to 2019. 14%

J-SA8571 Kanonkop Pinotage, 2010 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Consistently one of the finest and most impressive of Cape pinotages, despite growing competition from those keen to see the oft-unloved grape recognised for its true potential. Always approachable in its youth, this will develop greater richness and complexity over time in bottle. Now to 2024. 14.5%

2013 PLATTER FIVE-STAR SELECTION £94

Drink now to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following:

WHITE

Hamilton Russell Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde, 2011 Chamonix Reserve white, Franschhoek, 2011 (Cape Chamonix)Botanica Chenin Blanc, 2011

ref J-MX13119

RED

Warwick Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch, 2009Chamonix Reserve Pinot Noir, Franschhoek, 2011 (Cape Chamonix) Kanonkop Pinotage, 2010


9For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

WHITESJ-FC22441 Saint-Mont Les Empreintes Blanc, 2010 £11.50 bottle £138 dozen

Denis Dubourdieu fondly recalls the cuisine de terroir of his childhood in south-western France, and here is a gastronomic dry white from the Gers to do it and him justice, from one of his consultancy clients, the dynamic Saint-Mont co-op. The grapes are the gros and petit manseng of Jurançon, more reserved and less full-bodied than in their traditional home. Now to 2015. 13.5%.

J-BW3531 Clos Floridène Blanc, 2008, Graves £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

According to Denis, semillon grown on Bordeaux limestone has the same expressiveness as a great Burgundian chardonnay. This delicious dry white comes from the Dubourdieus’ own property – the name is a contraction of Florence and Denis - where the old semillon vines contribute richness and density and are here starting to add a more complex toasty note. Flavourful and long. Now to 2018. 12.5%

J-LO10081 Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy, 2010 £18 bottle £216 dozen

The influence of the master of sauvignon blanc has taken this fine Loire property to even higher standards of excellence. A perfect balance of ripeness and freshness. Now to 2018. 13.5%.

J-BW3061 Château Doisy-Daëne, 2006, Barsac £26 bottle £312 dozen

This property has been in the Dubourdieu family for three generations, Denis assuming control at the age of 51. The blend is 95% semillon and 5% sauvignon. He describes as good without being grandiose. Honeyed, perfumed freshness and aromatic length combine with richness, power, purity and finesse to make a glorious end to dinner. Now to 2025. 14%.

REDS BORDEAUXJ-CB3161 Château Reynon, Rouge, 2007, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux £12.50 bottle £150 dozen

‘In this clay’ says Denis, ‘merlot is king!’ Florence’s family property, now home to the Dubourdieus, is planted and blended accordingly (normally around 80% with cabernet sauvignon making up the balance). This is a modern but beautifully balanced wine that is a delight to drink now but will keep too. Now to 2017. 13%

J-CM13701 Clos Floridène, Rouge, 2009, Graves £16 bottle £192 dozen

This distinctive red, quite literally the Dubourdieus’ “house” wine, is unusual for its predominance of cabernet sauvignon (65%). The limestone soil gives a distinct minerality and lovely fragrance to the wine. Rich and velvety in this fine cabernet vintage. Now to 2020. 13.5% (Low stock)

J-CS6701 Château Bourgneuf, 2007, Pomerol £26 bottle £312 dozen

Bourgneuf, owned by the Vayron family for six generations, is one of the oldest in Pomerol and consists of nine hectares for the most part on the best Pomerol soil of clay-gravel on a clay bed with iron-pan (crasse de fer) which gives the wine distinctive perfume and structure. Denis Dubourdieu is consultant oenologist here. Now to 2020. 13.5%

THE WORLD OF DENIS DUBOURDIEU

Perhaps best known to members as the producer of The Society’s Exhibition Sauternes, Denis Dubourdieu is a man with many hats. With his wife Florence and sons Fabrice and Jean-Jacques, he runs a family domaine which comprises the estates of Reynon in the Côtes de Bordeaux, Clos Floridène and Haura in the Graves, and Cantegril and Doisy-Daëne in Barsac. He is a renowned Professor of Oenology at Bordeaux University, and runs a busy wine consultancy business, centred on Bordeaux, but now operating worldwide. A self-confessed perfectionist, his consultancies outside Bordeaux are few and well-chosen, though rarely allowing him his one indulgence, in what must be very rare time off-duty: sailing (recognised on the label of his own wine, Clos Floridène).

Along with our selection of Dubourdieu family wines below, we have unearthed several more from properties where Denis Dubourdieu and his team are now advising. It’s by no means exhaustive, and his direct influence may yet to be felt, but the line-up gives a flavour of what this energetic and passionate professional is all about, as well as a shortlist of wines to watch in the future.


10 Why not make up your own mixed case from any of the wines featured here? If you would like to receive occasional Fine Wine e-mails from The Society 01438 741177

REDS BORDEAUXJ-CM8941 Château Batailley, 2004, Pauillac £29 bottle £348 dozen

This fifth-growth property is owned and managed by Pierre Castéja, supported by the technical expertise of Denis as consultant winemaker. Pierre believes this vintage will develop in the style of ‘96 or ‘86 but will eclipse both. Lovely firm black-fruit quality with typical touch of hazelnuts at this stage and with the charm and finesse of the 2004 vintage. Now to 2020. 13%

J-CM11481 Château La Lagune, 2006, Haut-Médoc £39 bottle £468 dozen

Denis Dubourdieu is the consultant of choice for winemaker Caroline Frey, whose family acquired third-growth claret La Lagune in 2000. This vintage has an abundance of glossy fruit, presented with elegance and charm, rather in the Saint-Julien style: not big, but beautifully balanced. Now to 2030. 13%

BURGUNDY – LOUIS JADOTJ-BU48561 The Society’s Exhibition Monthélie, Domaine Louis Jadot, 2009 £17.50 bottle £210 dozen

A Dubourdieu tip on negotiating restaurant wine-lists is to choose not the cheapest wine of a major appellation, but go to the best wine of a lesser one. Adjacent to Volnay but less famous, Monthélie produces wines similar in style to its famous neighbour, fragrant, fine-boned and elegant, with the extra ripeness of the 2009 vintage. This Society’s Exhibition bottling comes from Jadot’s own vines. Sebastian Payne MW favours this commune too, in Buyer’s Choice on page 5. Now to 2016. 13%.

THE RHÔNE – PAUL JABOULET AINÉJ-RH19741 Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, 2006 £22 bottle

Jaboulet is now under the same ownership as La Lagune, above, so it’s no surprise to find Denis Dubourdieu heading a team of five consultants who advise both on viticultural and technical aspects of production. Thalabert, an historic and much-loved pillar of the Crozes appellation has been the subject of strict control, with production halved in order to raise the standard. This is wonderfully rich, plummy syrah, with impressive length. Now to 2020. 13.5%. (Low stock six bottles only per member)

J-RH21431 The Society’s Exhibition Hermitage Rouge, 2006 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Denis often quotes Hermitage as a classic example of how great vineyards are not born but made, the result of massive efforts of stone-clearing and terrace-building. In tasting the different elements that make up Jaboulet’s La Chapelle, this wine from the Roucoules vineyard stood out for its exquisite charm and finesse, and we were able to draw off a few barrels to be bottled separately under the Exhibition label. Now to 2016. 14%

PORTUGAL – RAMOS PINTO, DOURO Duas Quintas, Reserva, Douro, 2009 (Ramos Pinto) Immensely concentrated reserva from this more traditional of port houses, one of

Denis Dubourdieu’s two associations with Portugal. Winemaker João Nicolau de Almeida is bringing a rich, modern dimension to their impressive range of reds. Lots of sweet oak makes this approachable now but it will benefit greatly from more time in bottle. Now to 2021. 15% Only available in mixed case J-MX13112

THE DUBOURDIEU EFFECT £135

Drink now to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following six red wines:

The Society’s Exhibition Monthélie, Domaine Louis Jadot, 2009Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine de Thalabert, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, 2006Duas Quintas, Reserva, Douro, 2009 (Ramos Pinto)Château Bourgneuf, 2007, PomerolChâteau Batailley, 2004, PauillacClos Floridène, Rouge, 2009, Graves

ref J-MX13112


11If you would like to receive occasional Fine Wine e-mails from The Society 01438 741177

J-AR2801 The Society’s Exhibition Mendoza Malbec, 2010 £9.95 bottle £119 dozen

This is a rich, ripe and sweet malbec made from 60% high-altitude (1,450m) Gualtallary fruit for finesse and perfume with 40% from Agrelo’s clay soils at 950m for breadth and power. Now to 2018. 14%

J-AR2611 Mendel Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Fine, cedary cabernet from a 15-year-old vineyard at Perdriel, Mendoza. Fresh, firm, fine linear wine of great class, aged for a year in barriques. Now to 2016. 14.5% The 2010 follows.

J-AR2781 Mendel Malbec, 2010 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Made from a vineyard planted in 1928 in the Major Drummond area of Mendoza, near Lunlunta. 2010 was a fine and cool year giving an intense floral, scented nose and a medium-bodied, refreshing palate of considerable elegance. Decant half an hour before serving. Now to 2018. 14%

J-AR2741 Susana Balbo Brioso, 2007 £19.50 bottle £234 dozen

Susana Balbo’s wonderful cabernet sauvignon-based blend from Mendoza has a fine cedary nose and palate combining concentration with great length of flavour. An impressive blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 15% malbec, 10% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot aged in aged in new French oak for 14 months. Now to 2020. 14.5%

J-AR2621 Mendel Unus, 2009 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Made from 70% malbec from a vineyard planted in 1928 in Perdriel, with 30% cabernet sauvignon from a 15-year-old vineyard, aged for about 15 months in barriques. The warm 2009 is a very successful vintage for Unus, as the cabernet ripened to perfection. Decant. Now to 2024. 14.5% The 2010 follows.

J-AR2651 Zaha Altamira Malbec, 2010 £21 bottle £252 dozen

This is an intensely aromatic malbec with floral and blackberry notes. The soils in Altamira, predominantly sandy and silty with some limestone, give an exquisite, fine-grained silky texture. 90% malbec, 8% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot aged in barrel for about a year. Now to 2020. 14%. (Low stock)

J-AR2811 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 £24 bottle £288 dozen

Exquisite cabernet of the highest quality with textbook cedary aromas and a fine, very long palate. Now to 2024. 14%

J-AR2551 Caro, 2009 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Impressive, understated 85% malbec, 15% cabernet sauvignon blend made by a joint venture between CAtena and ROthschild (Lafite). Aged 18 months in French oak. Ripe malbec provides the fruit and cabernet the structure. The opulent flavour completely masks the alcohol. Now to 2018. 15%

ARGENTINA: CLASSICAL LATIN

For sheer variety Argentina plays second fiddle to Chile with a much narrower range of climates and grapes. However, Mendoza’s principal asset is a large quantity of malbec vineyards between 50 and 90 years old, often planted with lovely small-berried massale selections of malbec, quite densely planted at a traditional density of about 5,500 vines a hectare, flood irrigated, and picturesquely interspersed with olive trees.

Recent plantings of cabernet sauvignon are producing fine wines. We have some excellent varietal bottlings as well as cabernet-dominated blends such as Susan Balbo’s splendid Brioso. Cabernet also marries very well with malbec. 10–40% adds a little backbone and a cedary perfume to malbec’s soft, velvety and violet-scented wines. See Unus, Caro and Cavas de Weinert. Zaha uses the more delicate cabernet franc and petit verdot to add structure to the very pretty and scented Altamira malbec. Toby Morrhall


12 For small parcels of fi ne bin ends winesociety.com/fi newinebinendsFor help and advice about any of our wines or services

thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

J-AR2791 Mendel Finca Remota Altamira, 2010 £42 bottle £504 dozen

Made from malbec vines at least 60 years old in the Altamira region of the Uco Valley. Silty soils, old vines and cool temperatures influenced by the high altitude of about 1,150m, combine to produce a violet-scented wine with an elegant yet persistent palate. Now to 2028. 14.5%

J-AR2631 Mendel Finca Remota, 2008 £42 bottle £504 dozen

The same dark, violet-toned finesse, with the benefit of two years’ bottle-maturation. Quite magnificent. Now to 2024. 14.5%

J-AR2864 Magnum of Weinert, Cavas de Weinert, 1997 £49 per magnum £294 per six

Mature and fine-flavoured blend of malbec, cabernet sauvignon and merlot with aromas of cedar and sandalwood and a soft, round and caressing palate. Developing the mature flavours of leather and tobacco but still vigorous and lively. Now to 2017. 13.5% Available from the end of April.

PORTUGAL: THE WHITE SIDE

Portugal’s reputation for fine wine has been driven by the Douro valley, first its fortified wines, but in recent years by its fine ageworthy reds. Yet some of the most exciting Portuguese wines we are tasting, many of which we are discovering for the first time, are white. The selection below celebrates indigenous Portugal across six different regions, their unique terroirs expressed in and by the wines themselves. Joanna Locke MW

from the end of April.

THE ARGENTINE MALBEC CASE £99

Drink now to 2018

A six-bottle case containing two bottles of:

The Society’s Exhibition Mendoza Malbec, 2010

ref J-MX13116

J-PW3421 Vinhas Velhas, Beiras, 2011 (Luis Pato) £10.95 bottle £131 dozen

A Portuguese white of incredible minerality from king of Bairrada, Luis Pato. Local grapes from mature vines vinified without oak produce a wine that will keep well for a few years if you can resist its precise, mouthwatering, savoury complexity for a while longer. Now to 2016. 12% The 2012 follows.

J-PW3391 Valle Pradinhos, Branco, Transmontano, 2011 £10.95 bottle

Winemaker Rui Cunha’s homage to his great-grandfather, whose inspired plantings of gewürztraminer, riesling and malvasia fina at his estate in the Trás-os-Montes region of the Upper Douro were the blueprint for this rich, aromatic, discreetly spicy white. Drink this year and next. 13.5% (Low stock three bottles only per member)

and one bottle each of the following:

Mendel Malbec, 2010Mendel Unus, 2009Zaha Altamira Malbec, 2010Caro, 2009

Stop press: As this List went for publication, the Association of Portuguese Wine Importers (APWI) honoured The Society for the second year in a row with the award for UK Best Online/Mail Order Merchant.


13For help and advice about any of our wines or services

thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

J-PW3461 Terrenus, Alentejo, 2011 £10.95 bottle £131 dozen

An extraordinary wine made from high-altitude mixed-planted 80 to 100-year-old bush vines of numerous varieties, then part vinified in French oak. The exceptional granite in the soils here also adds complexity and real minerality too. Drink this year and next. 13% Low stock.

J-PW3481 Passadouro, Branco, Douro, 2010 (Quinta do Passadouro) £12.50 bottle £150 dozen

A blend of local viosinho, rabigato, códega do larinho grown on some of the highest slopes of the Douro Valley. The winemaker is Jorge Serôdio Borges who earned his stripes at nearby Niepoort and also makes wonderful white with his winemaker wife Sandra Tavares da Silva under their private label, Guru. Now to 2015. The 2011 follows. 12.5%

J-PW3791 Soalheiro Alvarinho Vinho Verde, 2012 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

Arguably Portugal’s best alvarinho, from the sub-region of Monçao e Melgaço, which is further from the Atlantic and less rainy. The elegance and complexity here speak of mature vines, low yields and a masterly winemaker, António Cerdeira, whose development included a stint in Burgundy. Fresh, mineral and delicious. Now to 2015. 12.5%

J-PW3801 Redoma Branco, Douro, 2011 (Niepoort) £14.95 bottle £179 dozen Elegantly balanced, barrel-fermented dry white from high-altitude vineyards and

numerous different grape varieties, all more than 60 years old. The schist soils add further minerality: the aromas are of white fruits and flowers, the flavour more stone fruit. Still young, and sure to develop greater complexity in bottle. Now to 2018. 13%

J-PW3781 Casal Figueira António, Lisboa, 2011 £17 bottle £204 dozen

Made from the old variety vital, this extraordinary white has layers of savoury fruit without losing appetising freshness. One of Julia Harding MW’s 50 Great Portuguese Wines in 2012. Now to 2016. 12%

J-PW3811 Tiara, Douro, 2011 (Niepoort) £18 bottle £216 dozen

Elegant, lightly fragrant white based on the códega de larinho grape grown on slate soils at high altitude. A small proportion is fermented in old casks, the majority in stainless-steel tank to preserve fruit freshness and steely backbone. Now to 2017. 13%

J-PW3841 Quinta do Ameal, Escolha, Minho, 2011 £18.50 bottle £222 dozen

From an ancient quinta whose vineyards are certified organic, and where the focus is on the loureiro grape. Extraordinary perfume combining grapefruit, pressed apple, pear and crab apple, caressed by oak. Now to 2017. 11.5%

J-PW3751 Nossa, Branco, Beiras, 2011 (Filipa Pato) £19 bottle £228 dozen

The Bairas district of Bairrada benefits from cooling, late-afternoon breezes which favour the production of white wine, here from lovingly-tended bical vines. Fresh, taut and appley, with some richness on the palate. Now to 2016. 13%

WHITE SIDE OF PORTUGAL CASE £99

Drink now to 2016


Passadouro, Branco, Douro, 2010/2011 (Quinta do Passadouro)Soalheiro Alvarinho Vinho Verde, 2012Tiara, Douro, 2011 (Niepoort) Casal Figueira António, Lisboa, 2011 Quinta do Ameal, Escolha, Minho, 2011 Nossa, Branco, Beiras, 2011 (Filipa Pato)

ref J-MX13117


14 For other fi ne wine mixed cases thewinesociety.com/fi newinemixedcases

J-BU41441 Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud, Domaine Maume, 2006 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Beautiful, mature Gevrey, exquisite mid-mature pinot nose. Soft, sweet and seductive palate . This is benchmark Gevrey. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-BU42241 Gevrey-Chambertin, Place des Lois, Domaine Alain Burguet, 2006 £35 bottle £420 bottle

The wishing well in Gevrey-Chambertin, Alain’s birthplace, sits in the Place des Lois, which gives its name to this premium blend, sourced from the lieux-dits, or named sites, of En Billard to the north of the commune and Reniards further to the south. Mature aromas, quite animal and farmyardy, in a pleasant way, with a big, ripe sweet palate. Now to 2018. 13% (Low stock)

J-BU33091 Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Pruliers, Domaine Jean Grivot, £39 bottle £468 dozen

2004 Structured and powerful Nuits with a firm and concentrated palate. No trace of greenness

at all. Needs food. Perhaps in the form of cold roast beef. Now to 2017. 13%

J-BU32221 Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Roncières, Domaine Robert £59 bottle £708 dozen

Chevillon, 2004 Now soft and mature. There remain a few leafy aromas characteristic of some 2004s,

but they are becoming subsumed into a typically mature sous bois nose which is most attractive. The palate is soft and giving and attractive. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-BU41371 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Jean Grivot, 2006 £65 bottle £780 dozen

Already intensely aromatic and with an ample, broad-shouldered palate, this is a big, rich and highly successful Clos de Vougeot. Now to 2018. 13.5%

J-BU41111 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine François Lamarche, 2006 £79 bottle £948 dozen

Lamarche have vines in the bottom, middle and top of the Clos and every year make a fine, balanced example. A full, firm, meaty and masculine Clos, this also needs a couple of years or decanting. Now to 2022. 13.5%

GEVREY, NUITS AND CLOS DE VOUGEOT

These are some of Burgundy’s most powerful wines. The village Gevreys are drinking beautifully now. Both Maume and Burguet harvest late, making sweet, rich, satisfying wines which are enormously pleasing. The Nuits premiers crus come from producers making contrasting styles. Chevillon is unusually sweet and soft for the appellation, while Grivot makes the more typically dense, firm wines. 2004 was a tricky year, yet good producers like these have turned out good wines.

Grand cru Clos de Vougeot is a burly, masculine wine. These 2006s would be best laid down a couple of years as they have not yet shed their tannic envelope and the aromas are a little closed. Born in the shadow of the great 2005, 2006 is underestimated and underpriced, and worth cellaring.

NUITS EXPLORATION CASE £279

Saving £27

Drink now to 2015

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above

ref J-MX13113

Members’ Reserves offers the best-value storage in the country thewinesociety.com/membersreserves


15

REDJ-IT15811 Hofstätter Joseph Lagrein, 2011 £11.50 bottle £138 dozen

A speciality of Alto Adige and Trento, lagrein has lovely soft bright refreshing fruit and very gentle tannin making it an attractive midday wine with a salad lunch. Drink this year and next. 13.5% (Low stock).

J-US4991 Lohr Sevenoaks Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010 £12.50 bottle £150 dozen

An excellent, plump cabernet sauvignon from Paso Robles where the hot days result in a rich, blackberry-flavoured style. Drink this year and next. 13.5%

J-IT16541 Mascarello Dolcetto Bricco Mirasole, 2011 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Rich in depth and personality and like every wine that Mauro makes, completely unlike anyone else’s. Mirasole is a new wine, but this comes from vines at the top of the great Monprivato vineyard in Piedmont, which members will have enjoyed before. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-SP5601 Marqués de Murrieta Reserva, Rioja, 2005 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Classy and silky Rioja with appealing red-fruit flavours and a hint of spice. Carefully matured for 22 months in US oak, this is a delicious traditional style Rioja from a superb vintage. Now to 2016. 14%

J-BJ5521 Moulin-à-Vent, Château des Jacques, 2011 £13.50 bottle £162 dozen

Fine, creamy Beaujolais from Louis Jadot. This has depth and Burgundian-like finesse and is best kept for another six months. Now(ish) to 2018. 13%

J-CS5641 Château Louvie, Cuvée Veyry, 2005, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

This is made from grapes grown on Christian Veyry’s own plot of vines, averaging 35 years of age, which are situated below St Laurent-des-Combes in Saint-Emilion. A silky, ripe claret with generous aromas of black fruit, and rich fruit palate. Now to 2015. 14%

J-AU14861 Brick Kiln Shiraz, 2009, McLaren Vale £16 bottle £192 dozen

Big, bold and immensely satisfying Australian shiraz which combines ripe blackberry and spicy flavours. Decant. Now to 2014. 15%

J-SA8111 Meerlust Estate Merlot, Stellenbosch, 2005 £18 bottle £216 dozen

A new world wine for Bordeaux lovers, with the colour, aroma and flavours of mature claret. Winemaker Chris Williams’ second vintage in charge, with 12% cabernet franc, shows the sweetness of the 2005 South African vintage. Now to 2020. 14%

J-AU14161 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Vineyard Cabernet-Merlot, 2008, £19 bottle £228 dozen

Margaret River A classy, scented and refined Western Australian cabernet-merlot from the Ribbon Vale

Vineyard which is now owned by top estate Moss Wood. Decant. Now to 2017. 14%

SMALL WONDERS

Fine Wine at £20 and UnderThe world tour of new discoveries, shy violets, undervalued assets and stars in the making that is Small Wonders begins in France. Route 1 starts in Bordeaux, crosses into Rioja, Route 2 in Beaujolais and down to Italy. Then it’s southbound for both to California and all the way to Australia and the Cape. Nothing keeps prices friendly like an unfamiliar grape, so step forward the digestibly fruity, raspberry-infused lagrein of north-eastern Italy. Another tip for value is a tongue-twister of a name – a drop of Calcaia Muffa Nobile, anyone? Society members are by and large impressively adventurous drinkers but anyone seeking more familiar ground will be reassured to find plenty of chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, riesling and the like too. Barolo enthusiasts who can’t wait for the Mascarello trio on page 7 can whet their appetite with dolcetto from the same producer, a bewitching balance of this delightful grape’s natural accessibility and the polish and complexity you’d expect from a great Piemontese producer. Janet Wynne Evans

Members’ Reserves offers the best-value storage in the country thewinesociety.com/membersreserves



WHITEJ-SA8031 The Foundry Grenache Blanc, Voor Paardeberg, 2011 £11.95 bottle £143 dozen

Closest to a Rhône white in style, this South African has the pure ripe fruit of the new world combined with the texture and character that comes only from healthy vineyards. A touch of viognier (under 10%) enhances the fragrant aroma. Drink over the next year or so. 13%

J-NZ6411 Kumeu River Pinot Gris, 2011, Auckland £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

An excellent New Zealand pinot gris with floral aromas which give freshness to the broad ripe flavours. Drink this year and next. 13%

J-IT16251 Vermentino, Colli di Luni Fosso di Corsano, 2011 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Fine full-flavoured vermentino from Ivan Giuliani’s small estate high in the Apuan hills east of La Spezia where the maritime influence suits this characterful grape perfectly. Drink this year and next. 13.5%

J-BW4501 Les Charmes-Godard, 2011, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux £17 bottle £204 dozen

Very individual and delicious with lovely freshness and bounce. This original white, made in tiny quantity by Nicolas Thienpoint at his family property, is a mix of 70% semillon, 25% sauvignon gris and 5% muscadelle. Drink this year and next. 13%

J-AU13171 Jim Barry, The Florita Riesling, 2007, Clare Valley £20 bottle £240 dozen

The Clare Valley is renowned for its rieslings. This example from Jim Barry exhibits a steely backbone, crisp acidity and an abundance of complex citrus flavours. Drink this year and next. 13%

J-IT14781 Calcaia Muffa Nobile Dolce Orvieto Classico Superiore, 2006 £11.50 bottle £138 dozen

(Barberani) (50cl) A Barberani original to rival Sauternes with equally exotic aromatic apricot and honey

bouquet and generous liquorous sweetness to match desserts but with a light clean touch. Muffa nobile is Italian for ‘pourriture noble’ or noble rot, the natural beneficial action that increases grape sweetness while reducing water content in the grape. Now to 2016. 11%

McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Chardonnay, 2010, Margaret River Exceptionally classy and broad chardonnay from David Hohnen’s Calgardup Brook

vineyard, not far from Leeuwin. Drink this year and next. 13.5% Available in the mixed case only.

SMALL WONDERS REDS £85

Enjoy this year and next


Mascarello Dolcetto Bricco Mirasole, 2011J Lohr Sevenoaks Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010Moulin à Vent, Château des Jacques, 2011 Château Louvie, Cuvée Veyry, 2005Brick Kiln Shiraz, 2009, McLaren ValeMeerlust Estate Merlot, Stellenbosch, 2005

ref J-MX13114

SMALL WONDERS WHITES £89

Enjoy this year and next


Kumeu River Pinot Gris, 2011, AucklandVermentino, Colli di Luni Fosso di Corsano, 2011Les Charmes-Godard, 2011, Francs Côtes de BordeauxMcHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Chardonnay, 2010, Margaret RiverJim Barry, The Florita Riesling, 2007, Clare ValleyThe Foundry Grenache Blanc, Voor Paardeberg, 2011ref J-MX13118


17For small parcels of fi ne bin ends visit winesociety.com/fi newinebinends

J-CM12021 Château Fourcas Dupré, 2005, Listrac-Médoc £16 bottle £192 dozen

Expressive and attractive claret with both substance and delightful balance that will reward generously over the next five years or so. Decant if serving now to allow its early hints of cedar and tobacco to come to the fore, for a taste of things to come. Now to 2015. 13%

J-CM9981 Château Bernadotte, 2005, Haut-Médoc £17 bottle £204 dozen

Elegant and stylish claret with the charm of its big brother, Pichon-Lalande, in the same ownership. Now to 2015. 13%

J-CM9871 Château Cissac, 2005, Haut-Médoc £18 bottle £216 dozen

An outstanding Cissac similar to their 2000 but with more finesse. This deserves keeping but will be good to drink earlier than past vintages. Now to 2023. 12.5%

J-CS6671 Château L’Enclos, 2005, Pomerol £25 bottle £300 dozen

Stylish Pomerol for relatively early drinking with lovely flowery perfume and gentle fruit. Now to 2015. 13%

J-CS5551 Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac, 2005, Saint-Emilion £25 bottle £300 dozen

This château is the result of three age-old smallholdings: Clos Lamarzelle-Grand-Barrail, Clos Lamarzelle (joined in 1880) and Lamarzelle-Figeac, which separated from Château Figeac in the 1900s. This is a rich full-bodied wine with silky texture and fine-grained tannin structure. Now to 2016. 13.5%

J-CM10301 Château Lynch Moussas, 2005, Pauillac £27 bottle £324 dozen

Long-term investment in the vineyard by the Castéjas has paid off with this vintage. Well-structured, elegant Pauillac. Now to 2030. 13%

J-CS8781 Château Moulinet Lasserre, 2005, Pomerol £29 bottle £348 dozen

Classically styled Pomerol with fragrant, well-developed palate, freshness, elegance and length. Now to 2020. 13.5%

J-CM9951 Château Le Boscq, 2005, Saint-Estèphe £32 bottle £384 dozen

From the Dourthe stable, and superb in this fine vintage, with excellent structure and balance. 60% merlot, 27% cabernet sauvignon, 10% petit verdot and 3% cabernet franc. Now to 2020. 13%

J-CM10351 Château d’Armailhac, 2005, Pauillac £40 bottle £480 dozen

A great success from the Mouton Rothschild stable. 10% cabernet franc plays a part in giving this attractively supple Pauillac extra fine bouquet and charm. Now to 2020. 13%

Château Tour de Mons, 2005, Margaux Elegant Margaux from the superb 2005 vintage, where all elements fell into place at the

right time to produce balanced, well-structured wines with ample fruit. Now to 2018. 13%. Only available in mixed case J-MX13115

A natural wonder2005 was an outstanding vintage when nature gave the vines everything they needed to produce ripe, yet fresh, full-flavoured fruit. It was exceptional too because quality was good across the board and across the price spectrum (it has often been said since that only a fool made bad wine in Bordeaux in 2005). It will also be known as the year that started the last decade’s claret price boom. Astonishing as it may seem, thinking back to what seemed eye-watering prices at the time, 2005s now look very good value. Most have taken longer to come round than we first expected and we have revised some of our drinking windows accordingly. Several below are only just starting to drink well now, so decant in good time. Jo Locke MW

2005 CLARET


18To fi nd out more about The Society’s Vintage Cellar Plan

thewinesociety.com/vintagecellarplan or 01438 741177 If you would like to receive occasional Fine Wine e-mails from The Society 01438 741177

CUSTOM CELLARS

A hand-picked approach to cellar planningMembers have enthusiastically embraced the opportunity Customs Cellars offers to snap up tiny and sought-after parcels the better to enhance future drinking prospects. That these can be stored until ready in the perfect conditions of our Members’ Reserve facility, safe from unwise spontaneity or corkscrew-wielding marauders, adds to the appeal. The selection below combines two classic cellaring prospects – fine, late-picked German riesling and Hermitage from the prestigious Rhône house of Guigal – with an unprecedented chance to review, in the most delicious way, the recent history of an outstanding Languedoc domaine. Janet Wynne Evans

Please see thewinesociety.com/membersreserves for more details about Members’ Reserves

SPATLESE CASE £95

Drink now to 2020

A six-bottle case containing two bottles each of the following:

2011 was a lovely vintage for fine German riesling, because the grapes were healthy and ripened beautifully while retaining the fruit acidity that enhances bouquet and assures long life. Marcus Haag’s wine comes from the biggest site on one of the steepest slopes of the middle Mosel. Karthäuserhof in the Ruwer valley enjoyed a spectacularly successful 2011 vintage. While both wines are delicious now, they may be kept with advantage for another 10 years, if you wish. Sebastian Payne MW

Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese, 2011 (Willi Haag) Fragrant, spicy, honeyed riesling with bags of flavour and bouquet for the money, from one of Germany’s most precipitous hard

to work vineyards. 9%

Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese, 2011 (Tyrell) This estate was exceptionally successful in 2011, and this is absolutely delicious, crystal clear and precise with magical bouquet and

length of flavour. 9%

Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese, 2011 (von Schubert) Spicy and extremely charming with the inimitable Maximin trademark bouquet. A beautiful wine now and for the future. 8%

ref J-MX125188

2005 CLARETS FOR DRINKING NOW £134

Drink now to 2015


Château Fourcas Dupré, 2005, Listrac-Médoc Château Cissac, 2005, Haut-MédocChâteau Tour de Mons, 2005, Margaux

Château Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac, 2005, Saint-Emilion Château Lynch Moussas, 2005, Pauillac Château L’Enclos, 2005, Pomerol

ref J-MX13115


19If you would like to receive occasional Fine Wine e-mails from The Society 01438 741177

PRIEURE SAINT JEAN DE BEBIAN CASE £129

Drink now to 2025, store to 2017

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following

Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian, AC Coteaux du Languedoc Rouge, 2002 The most gentle. Plummy, with notes of spice, tabac and leather. Lovely now and to 2020. 14%

Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian, AC Coteaux du Languedoc Rouge, 2003 The most ready, with rich, brambly, cocoa-infused flavours. Now to 2017. 14%

Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian, AC Coteaux du Languedoc Rouge, 2004 The most elegant, with red-berry flavours and cedary charm. Now to 2019. 14.5%

Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian, AC Coteaux du Languedoc Rouge, 2005 The most closed, with tight, dark-fruit aromas and tannins. Now (decanted) to 2022. 14.5%

Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian, AC Coteaux du Languedoc Rouge, 2006The most restrained, with poised, black-fruit and liquorice notes. Decant now or keep to 2022. 14.5%

Prieuré Saint Jean de Bébian, AC Coteaux du Languedoc Rouge, 2007 The most harmonious. Wonderful complexity. Decant now or keep to 2025.

ref J-MX13108

LIONS OF THE LANGUEDOC Prieure Saint Jean de BebianThis 35-hectare estate lies outside the town of Pézénas, north-east of Béziers, on the site of a 16th-century monastery, and at the heart of a viticultural tradition dating back to Roman times and beyond. Its potential was recognised in the 1970s by Alain Roux, who replanted with cuttings from Chave, Château Rayas and Domaine Tempier. The next owners, a journalist couple who founded the Revue du Vin de France, brought in much-needed energy and an outstanding young Australian winemaker Karen Turner, whose considerable experience includes a stint with Hugel in Alsace. The estate is again under new ownership, but the management team remains in place and Karen very much in charge. These are exceptional wines, Rhône in style, yet very much part of the Languedoc. Sample six consecutive vintages in this exclusive case, packed for us at the domaine. Marcel Orford-Williams

Four vintages of Hermitage in a limited-edition mixed caseMore usually associated with Côte-Rôtie, the venerable house of Guigal has always produced a small quantity of Hermitage from its own vines and from grapes sourced from other growers. The point about them is the length of time they spend in barrel – all of three years in 50% new wood – whence they emerge dark, spicy and powerful in style. This case, specially packed for The Society at the domaine, offers up four consecutive vintages to sample.

FOUR IN A ROW FROM GUIGAL

GUIGAL HERMITAGE VERTICAL CASE £159

Drink 2013 to 2027, store to 2018

A four-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following:

Hermitage, 2004Classically styled, elegant and lovely already. Now to 2018. 13.5%

Hermitage, 2005Weighty, tannic and well-built. 2014 to 2027. 13.5%

Hermitage, 2006Full, supple and expressive but resist the temptation to uncork early. 2014 to 2027. 13.5%

Hermitage, 2007 Firm, ripe and herby, with a Mediterranean feel. Just about now to 2025. 13.5%

ref J-MX13109


JAPR

13

SERVICESMembers’ Reserves: optimum wine storage This purpose-built, temperature-controlled facility offers members access to optimum storage conditions at one of the UK’s most competitive rates.

l Optimum storage at a steady average temperature of 13˚C with appropriate humidity of 65%

l Annual rental charge (currently £7.92 per dozen if paid by direct debit, £9.12 per dozen if not) includes VAT and insurance at replacement value

l Mix your own case for storage, or store pre-mixed cases

l Remove a few bottles of a full case stored in Reserves and leave the remainder to mature further

l View your stored wines online with updated drink dates

l When you are ready to receive your wines, UK delivery is free of chargethewinesociety.com/membersreserves

Vintage Cellar Plan – the simple and affordable way to create a cellar of fine wineChoose from a range of plans and then let The Society’s buyers do the rest, using their expertise to seek out exceptional parcels of wine for your future enjoyment. thewinesociety.com/vintagecellarplan

Fine Wine Advisers – here to helpPlease contact the Fine Wine Advisers for help with wine selection, food matching and any other wine-related subject. Visit thewinesociety.com/advice or call 01438 741177 to find out more.

The Society’s Fine Wine ListPlease note that many of these wines are available only in limited quantities and will be sold on a first-come first-served basis. Prices are correct at the time of publication, but The Society reserves the right to amend them at any time during the life of this List.

For details on ordering from The Society see page 137 of the main List.

Please note:

l Members wishing to store mixed cases in our Reserves facility are advised to take note of the drinking windows highlighted in the wine note of the wines included in it.

l Our Stevenage Showroom doesn’t hold stocks of all the fine wines listed, so pre-ordering is recommended

KEYSee page 145 of the main List for full descriptions

White Wines: bone dry, eg. Muscadet

a little fuller than bone dry or with lower acidity

dry but rich or lighter and sweeter

medium dry, usually demi-secs

medium sweet, the driest of the pudding-style wines

- dessert grade sweetness eg. Sauternes

Alcohol levelsAlcohol percentage by volume is indicated for each wine or spirit. Occasionally there will be slight variations from the published figure. Alcohol levels are only a guide to a wine’s fullness; other factors such as tannin and extract in red wines also contribute to overall impression of weight and the note on the wine should make this clear. Units of alcohol are increasingly printed on wine labels. A UK unit of alcohol is simply measured by multiplying alcohol by volume. Thus a standard 13% 75cl bottle of wine will contain 9.7 units of alcohol.

14.5 10.9

14 10.5

13.5 10.1

13 9.75

12 9.0

11 8.25

10 7.5

9 6.75

volume %Units per

standard bottle

The UK government recommends that men do not regularly exceed 3-4 units a day, and that women do not regularly exceed 2-3 units a day. It also recommends that pregnant women do not drink alcohol.

Uncork with confidenceAs a mutual organisation, members’ pleasure is paramount. If, for any reason, you haven’t enjoyed a wine we want to hear about it and will happily offer a credit, a replacement or a refund as appropriate. For conditions please see thewinesociety.com/promise

This offer is open until Sunday 11th August 2013 while stocks last. To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222 smartphone app

The International Exhibition Co-operative Wine Society Limited. Registered Office: Gunnels Wood Road, Stevenage, Hertfordshire, SG1 2BT Register Number: 1824R (IP)Website thewinesociety.comEnquiries 01438 741177Orders 01438 740222


Documents

INCLUDES THE FIVE FAMILIES OF RIOJA · Exceptionally fine, fragrant and silky with long, sweet flavour, this has been carefully aged in oak and bottle to reach its enormous potential