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M Farzad Shahabuddin Registration number 100147011 2019 Implementation of tracking technology for solving inefficiencies and developing technological ideas in the Bangladesh Textile Industry Supervised by Dr Richard Harvey University of East Anglia Faculty of Science School of Computing Sciences

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Page 1: Implementation of tracking technology for solving

M Farzad Shahabuddin

Registration number 100147011

2019

Implementation of tracking technology forsolving inefficiencies and developingtechnological ideas in the Bangladesh

Textile Industry

Supervised by Dr Richard Harvey

University of East Anglia

Faculty of Science

School of Computing Sciences

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Abstract

In this report we have discussed the Bangladesh textile industry and the manufacturing

process. We have theorised the implementation of tracking in the subsequent processes.

We have also discussed about the overall equipment effectiveness calculation based on

some sample data. Additionally we have proposed recommendations from the retailer

and customer perspectives.

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank the management of Knit Concern group, Fakir Fashion Ltd and

Ajax sweater for giving me access to their factories and helping with crucial research.

I would also like to thank Pacific Associates Ltd for introducing me to the manufactur-

ers. Finally I would like to thank Dr. Richard Harvey for his incredible support and

guidance. I wouldn’t have been able to come this far without him.

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Contents

1 Introduction 6

2 Literature review 6

2.1 Project Background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2.1.1 Bangladesh textile industry background . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

2.2 Types of tracking technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

2.2.1 RFID . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

2.2.2 Barcodes and QR Tags . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

2.2.3 Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) systems . . . . . . . . . . 11

2.3 Rich Picture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

3 Manufacturing process 12

3.0.1 Challenges in the manufacturing process . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

3.1 Existing manufacturing process and implementation of tracking . . . . 13

3.1.1 Yarn Sourcing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

3.1.2 Knitting Section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

3.1.3 Dyeing Section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

3.1.4 Finishing Stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

3.1.5 Cutting Stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

3.1.6 Sewing Stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

3.1.7 Packaging and Shipping: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

3.2 Cost Benefit Analysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

4 Overall Equipment Effectiveness(OEE) 24

4.1 Defining Overall Equipment Effectiveness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

4.2 Calculating Overall Equipment Effectiveness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

5 Additional recommendations 30

5.1 Manufacturing perspective . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

5.1.1 Analysing cutting optimization software . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

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5.2 Retail perspective . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

5.2.1 Analysing Tracking Customer Behaviour . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

5.3 Customer perspective . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

5.3.1 Integrating barcodes on garment labels . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

6 Existing tracking in textile manufacturing 36

6.0.1 Areas where tracking is already implemented . . . . . . . . . . 36

6.0.2 Dyeing chemical tracking: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

7 Conclusion and Evaluation 37

7.1 Evaluation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

7.2 Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

References 39

8 Interviews 41

8.1 Interview 1: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

8.2 Interview 2: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

8.3 Interview 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

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List of Figures

1 Finishing machine (left) and Specialised knitted fabric(right)–Knit Con-

cern Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

2 Operator sewing (left)- Ajax Sweater Ltd and Yarn storage(right)-Fakir

Fashion Ltd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

3 RFID frequency bands and their applications [17] . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

4 Barcode label (left) and QR code(right) for bundle tracking–Fakir Fash-

ion Ltd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

5 Rich Picture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

6 Yarn Sourcing Flowcart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

7 Knitting Flowchart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

8 Dyeing flowchart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

9 Finishing flowchart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

10 Cutting flowchart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

11 Sewing flowchart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

List of Tables

1 Sample amount of cut pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

2 Barcode Costing for order of 100,000 pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

3 RFID Costing for order of 100,000 pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

4 Total Costing with Barcode in entire manufacturing line . . . . . . . . . 24

5 Six big losses table [Vorne] . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

6 Sample data for first shift in sewing line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

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1 Introduction

Over the last few decades Bangladesh has become a powerhouse in the garment and

textile industry. Bangladesh is the second largest apparel and Ready-Made Garments

(RMG) exporter in the world. Specifically the RMG sector forms the majority of cloth-

ing manufacturing in the country. In 2016/2017 the RMG industry generated USD 28.14

billion which constituted 80% of the total earnings in exports for Bangladesh [4].

With the ever growing dependency on technological advancement around the world,

Bangladeshi manufacturers may wish to adapt to the trending changes to sustain in

the competitive market.The amalgamation of tracking and modern technologies with

the conventional garment manufacturing process and the supply chain system has the

potential to strengthen the relationships among manufacturers, retailers and customers.

This report will examine several ways tracking technology might be used from to assist

this manufacturing, shipping, retailer and customers perspectives.

2 Literature review

2.1 Project Background

For world renowned retail brands like Zara, Marks and Spencer, Walmart, Decathlon,

Uniqlo etc, the Bangladesh textile manufacturers are their trusted suppliers [10]. Low

labour cost, good product quality, reliable service and world-wide customer satisfaction

are some of the major factors that makes this industry popular with the retailers [15].

During the extensive research stage, the majority of our investigation was from the tex-

tile manufacturers perspective. Major textile manufacturers in Bangladesh like Knit

Concern Group, Fakir Fashion Ltd and Ajax Sweater Ltd were the main sources of our

information regarding this industry. The main topics that were discussed were the cur-

rent market trends, retailers requirements, order types, overall manufacturing processes,

problems within the production process and possible solution.

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2.1.1 Bangladesh textile industry background

The major reason for the evolution of the economic development of any country is in-

dustrialization. The textile industry of Bangladesh is one of the oldest and dates back

to almost 500 years old. Due to the cheap labour and high-end quality, the country has

always been a centre of interest for multinational retailers [fibre2fashion]. Over the re-

cent decades the country has been growing in overall textile manufacturing and has had

considerable development in sectors such as yarn and fabric production. The country

has an abundance of resources, opportunities and influential government policies. The

price of natural gas and cost of energy is relatively lower which is an advantage for the

industry [12]. Labour is easily affordable due to the ever-growing population. It gives

Bangladesh an upper-hand in producing labour intensive products. The industry has an

advantageous opportunity to trade with the US and European countries with a quota-free

textile policies.

The textile industry is the greatest contributor of the country’s economy. By providing

clothing, this industry is basically meeting one of the 5 basic needs of life.By being the

most labour intensive industry in the country, it is providing employments to hundreds of

thousands of people. It helps reducing poverty and enables women empowerment as the

majority of the labour force are women. This sector contributes over 13% of GDP and

40% industrial value addition. The industry has taken a target of USD 50 billion export

within the year 2021 [Amin]. But to achieve the target, it needs significant technological

development, easy access to the US and EU market, favourable government policies as

well as political stability.

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Figure 1: Finishing machine (left) and Specialised knitted fabric(right)–Knit Concern

Group

Figure 2: Operator sewing (left)- Ajax Sweater Ltd and Yarn storage(right)-Fakir Fash-

ion Ltd

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2.2 Types of tracking technology

In this section we will briefly discuss the different types of existing tracking technology

all over the world and the ones that can be effectively used in the textile industry.

2.2.1 RFID

Radio-frequency identification (RFID) is the wireless use of electromagnetic fields to

transfer data through tags stored information attached to different objects in order to

identify and track them automatically. The full RFID system consists of tags that carry

data and a reading system that reads data and sends it to a computer system. A tag

will contain a unique identification number containing the description of items. RFID

enables users to track and control assets anywhere in industrial process.

RFID tags generally uses different levels of frequencies. They are classed by their

radio frequency levels. Low frequency tags (125-134.2 kHz), high frequency tags (13.56

MGh) and ultra-high frequency tags (868-956 MGh) [8]. Uses of RFID varies from

country to country based on their frequency band limit. RFID tags can either be active,

semi-passive or passive. Passive tags have no internal power supply, the minimal amount

of electrical current needed to power the tag is induced by the incoming radio frequency

signal. Semi-passive tags have their own power supply, the power needed to transmit

signals back to the reader is collected from the reader itself. Active tags have their own

power and depend on their own power supply to transmit the signal.

The uses of RFIDs in the field of textile and fashion is vast. The industry can be

classified into four major sectors which includes manufacturing, shipment, distribution

and retailing. In manufacturing, RFID is used to trace products, avoid the mixture of

materials [13]. The performance of employees can be monitored using RFIDs based on

the rate of finished products by the day. After shipping the products, consignments can

be traced. Shipped products can be sorted out quickly during distribution [14]. As space

is a limitation in the majority of retail shops. RFID is used to manage space efficiently

and for inventory management. Apart from the textile industry, RFID is also used in the

health sector, public services, education, transport sector etc [6].

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Figure 3: RFID frequency bands and their applications [17]

2.2.2 Barcodes and QR Tags

A barcode is a machine readable form of information on a scannable, visual surface.

They are applied to objects for quick identification. There are 2 types of barcodes,

1-dimensional and 2-dimensional. 1D barcodes are used to store minimal amounts of

information, such as product type, size and colour. These barcodes are used in large

retailers to increase inventory accuracy and time utilization. 2D barcodes like QR codes

on the other hand, are more complex and can store more information such as voice,

image and other types of binary data, thus they are readable using smartphones and

other image scanners [2].

Figure 4: Barcode label (left) and QR code(right) for bundle tracking–Fakir Fashion Ltd

Barcodes can have a number of business advantages, such as:

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Processing data directly by barcodes is far more credible than a manual entry system;

data are immediately available; they encourage efficient inventory management by being

able to scan and track inventory with increased accuracy count; low cost.

2.2.3 Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) systems

In 1990 the Enterprise Resource Planning system (ERP) was developed as an extension

for material requirement planning (MRP) and computer integrated manufacturing. The

ERP system is a business management software system that uses a system of integrated

applications to tie together all the departments of an industry, which includes purchas-

ing, planning, development, manufacturing, sales/distribution and enables the flow of

data between them. The system can keep track of resources such as cash, raw materi-

als, industry capacity and the status of customer orders, purchase orders and employee

wages, irrelevant of which department has entered the data into the system. The ERP

provides a secure and centralised data vault, everyone in the industry is assured the data

is correct, up to date and complete [Godlan].

Benefits that can be derived from the system include:

real time information generated by the reports can give a clear business insight; de-

fined and efficient business processes ensures reduced operational cost; better decisions

are made as critical information is delivered quickly; efficient inventory managements

and lowers chances of shortages; improved data integrity and control lowers risks of

error prone manual steps [3].

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2.3 Rich Picture

Figure 5: Rich Picture

3 Manufacturing process

3.0.1 Challenges in the manufacturing process

Bangladesh has been slow to adapt to technological changes compared to other coun-

tries. Most of the textile factories depend on manual processes rather than automation;

manufacturing processes are monitored by individuals and data is collected and stored

manually. Due to the dependency on these manual approaches, significant errors are

common.

Some of the problems that were discovered during the research are as follows (infor-

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mation collected from interview with Knit Concern Group & Fakir Fashion Ltd):

• Due to the lack of proper tracking, problems arise in inventory management such

as stock shortages of raw materials, theft, lack of organisation, more time used in

manual record keeping.

• Fabrics come in roll form after knitting. The rolls are categorised in individual

lots for different orders. Due to the lack of tracking, sometimes these lots can go

missing or may get mixed. This creates problems in the subsequent processes.

The finished fabrics are cut into the desired shapes (collar, sleeves front/back

parts) that are formed into bundles. The same missing or mixing problems can

arise.

• Since each of the steps are monitored by different individuals, the person to ma-

chine ratio goes higher during manufacturing. The growing number of the labour

force creates difficulties in proper management and also increases the overhead

cost.

• The performance of individual departments are evaluated individually, which can

create bias reviews sometimes. A systematic employee and equipment evaluation

is needed.

• Fabrics are dyed after knitting in different colours. During this dyeing process,

all the colours of rolls for an individual order should match accordingly. Without

proper tracking the rolls can get mixed up during batch preparation. Which will

result shade variation.

• Manual data entry slows down work rate and creates the lack of real time feed-

back.

3.1 Existing manufacturing process and implementation of tracking

This section will briefly describe the manufacturing processes using flowcharts. After

discussing with manufacturers about their textile making process and constraints. We

have developed a newer approach which integrates tracking technology with the existing

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process which will be used to explain for the production of 100,000 pieces of Basic T-

shirts. Mr. Javed Kamal, Raihan Islam of Fakir Fashion Ltd. A.K.M Mohsin Ahmed of

Knit Concern group were interviewed for this project.)

3.1.1 Yarn Sourcing

Figure 6: Yarn Sourcing Flowcart

The negotiation between manufacturers and retailers are done by the merchandising

department of the factory. Initially the merchandising department receives a design or

sample pack from the retailers, say a basic t-shirt. This sample includes fabric structure,

size range, garment visual and accessories list. Afterwards this design pack is trans-

ferred to the sample section to make the fit sample to confirm the measurement of the

style. After gaining approval from the retailers, a counter sample is created where all

the requirements of the retailer is included. By approving this samples the retailer gives

order confirmation of the specific style. For 100,000 pieces of basic t-shirts, 70,280

meters (approx. 20,000kg) of fabric is required which will be knitted from 21 tons of

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yarn. The supply chain department will source yarn and accessories from the relevant

suppliers. To properly track the yarn, barcodes or RFID chips will be tagged in each

yarn package. If barcodes are tagged onto the packages, they will be scanned by the

concerned department before storing them into the factory, In the case of RFID chips,

a signal is automatically transmitted to the RFID reader, when the package reaches the

designated area of the radius of the reader. In both cases the data is stored in the server.

All the departments of the factory will be able to retrieve the information when required.

3.1.2 Knitting Section

Figure 7: Knitting Flowchart

KNITTING: Once the raw materials arrive in the factory, the knitting department

issues yarn from storage. Barcode attached yarn packages will be scanned before being

released from storage. If RFID is attached to the package then the reader will record a

signal that the package has been transferred from storage. In both processes a real-time

feedback will be generated in the server that the yarn packages has been transferred

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from the storage to the knitting department.

The released packages are received by the knitting department after scanning the

barcode. For RFID chips, a reader is needed within the knitting department to transmit

the data. The knitting is the process where the fabrics are made from yarn. To produce

100,000 pieces of t-shirts a total of 20,000kg of fabric is needed. At this stage the

knitting machine starts making the fabrics from the collected 21 tonnes of yarn. Fabrics

come in roll form after knitting. In total 800 rolls are formed from the produced fabric,

each roll will be tagged with system generated barcodes or RFID tags. These tags could

contain information about fabric construction, yarn construction, date of production,

order details etc. The quality of each rolls are constantly checked by the knitting quality

controller and updated into the barcodes/RFIDs existing information. Anyone will be

able to retrieve these information by scanning the barcode. Everyday hundreds of rolls

are produced in the knitting department for different orders. The possibility of roll

missing and mixing is very high. It creates serious problems in the later processes. The

use of tracking can reduce the chances of this problem.

These rolls are then transferred to storage. Everyday a large number of rolls are

received by the storage department. Collecting all the information of the rolls and man-

ually inputting them into the system is a constrain to storage efficiency. Using barcodes

and RFID chips will make the process much more systematic and accurate. A real time

feedback can be easily collected just by scanning the barcodes or logging into the RFID

system. The quality of a product is the most important factor in textile manufactur-

ing. Since the quality controller alone can check and update the quality report into the

server, chances of report temperament and errors is minimal. Consequentially the store

department can verify the quality report and proceed with storage.

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3.1.3 Dyeing Section

Figure 8: Dyeing flowchart

Dyeing:The subsequent stage of the manufacturing process is the dyeing stage. Dyeing

is the process where colour is transferred to the finished textile to give a permanent, long

lasting colouring effect. After the completion of knitting the dyeing department issues

those 800 rolls of fabrics from storage. The storage department will transfer the fabrics

to the dyeing section after scanning the rolls, and the data is stored into the server. After

the arrival of the fabrics into the dyeing section, they can check the quality of the knitted

fabrics by scanning the tracking chips. The probability of quality rejection is minimal

if tracking technology is used.

After receiving the rolls (weighing 20,000kg), the dying procedure commences. These

fabrics are set to be dyed. Batches are created by sewing several rolls together. A Total

of 20 dyeing machines are needed with a capacity of 1000 kg each. Those 800 rolls are

sewed to form 20 batches, each batch containing 40 rolls. Roll mixing while forming

batches creates a significant problem in dyeing. Each order has different characteristics,

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so rolls created for each order has a unique fabric composition. Subsequently, while

making a batch, if the rolls of one order is misplaced with another it will create a colour

variation. Due to the use of tracking chips in each roll. Chances of roll mixing of dif-

ferent orders is reduced. It will increase the efficiency of the dyeing section, proper

utilization of time and man power and saves money.

Total 20 batches of fabrics are dyed in this process. Each batch of dyed fabrics are

collected in trolleys. Barcode or RFID chips will be added to these batches. Quality

inspection is done on the dyed fabrics. These fabrics are then stored for the following

process.

3.1.4 Finishing Stage

Figure 9: Finishing flowchart

Finishing: After dyeing, fabrics commence for finishing. Finishing is a series of

mechanical and chemical processes which are used on fabrics based on their nature and

end-use. Finishing is one of the most crucial operation in textile manufacturing. This

stage usually includes treatments such as scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, stentering,

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drying, calendaring. Finishing operations are done on the fabrics to enhance their basic

characteristics like dye penetration, print ability, outlook, longevity etc. Finishing plays

an important role in bringing out the better commercial result of textile goods. A better

finishing treatment on fabrics will increase its lustre and hand feel that is appealing to

customers. During finishing various chemicals are used based on the nature of the fabric

and the result desired. Afterwards finishing fabrics are collected in the trolley in folded

form. These finished fabrics are then sent to the Garment Quality Section for quality

inspection. Once the quality has been ensured the report is uploaded to the server. In

this section, fabrics are once again made into roll form. Barcodes or RFID chips are

added to each rolls and sent for the next process.

3.1.5 Cutting Stage

Figure 10: Cutting flowchart

Cutting: The cutting section is where the finished fabrics are cut into the desired

shapes to make a complete product. The fabrics entering this section comes in roll form

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and they are scanned to check the current quality of the fabric. The rolls are then kept

for the subsequent process. These rolls of fabrics are then spread on the spreader and

cut into shapes using the cutting machine. The 100,000 pieces order consists of three

sizes small (45,000 pc), medium (35,000 pc) and large (20,000). The total amount of

cut pieces are given below:

Table 1: Sample amount of cut pieces

Body Parts Small Medium LargeFront Part 45,000 pc 35,000 pc 20,000 pc

Back Part 45,000 pc 35,000 pc 20,000 pc

Sleeves 90,000 pc 70,000 pc 40,000 pc

Neck Joint 45,000 pc 35,000 pc 20,000 pc

Total 5,00,000 pieces are cut for the specific order. Bundles are formed from individ-

ual sizes of cut pieces. Total 2500 bundles were formed from the cut pieces. Barcodes

or RFID chips will be attached on these bundles for tracking. In most of factories situ-

ated in Bangladesh bundle management is handled manually, usually on writing on top

of the bundles. Bundle missing and mixing is a common problem which can lead to size

distortion during the sewing process. Another problem that emerges from bundle miss-

ing is delayed shipment. If a bundle of cut pieces from an order goes missing, it creates

a problem during the sewing stage which leads to delayed shipment or short shipment

(lesser than actual order quantity).

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3.1.6 Sewing Stage

Figure 11: Sewing flowchart

Sewing: To implement RFID or Barcode, tags bundles could be sent to the input section

of the sewing floor from the Cutting department. From the input section these bundles

are then sent to the sewing line. A sewing line is a series of sewing machines that are

needed to sew a complete clothing from the cut pieces. If RFID is used then a reader

will be installed in the sewing floor. As soon as the RFID tagged bundles enter into the

radius of the reader, it will automatically read the information of the bundles and upload

it into the server. And in case of barcode labels, tablets with barcode scanner will be

mounted on each sewing machine. Before opening a bundle, operators will scan the

labels manually and data will be stored. Using the tracking technology in sewing floor,

manufacturers can easily track the movements of hundreds of thousands of Bundles. It

makes the managerial works more accurate and less complex. Tracking technology can

help in determining the operators efficiency simply by monitoring the rate of movement

of each bundles. At the end of the sewing line the quality of each product is checked.

This is the final quality checking of the manufacturing process. After sewing the goods

are sent for Packaging after completing some related processes like ironing, folding etc.

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3.1.7 Packaging and Shipping:

The finished garments are then sent to the packaging department where different labels

are attached, such as price, care and size labels are added. The garments are then folded

and packaged. Once the packaging is completed, They are loaded into cartons and

sent for storage. The amount of packages to be loaded in a carton is decided by the

retailer. The retailers also provides the packing list where all the packing details like the

distribution of different sizes in each carton is specified. A carton sticker with barcodes

are added to the cartons where all tracking details such as carton size, weight, number

packages, product details etc are included. This will help the retailers to release the

goods from the port with less effort and will reduce the risk of carton misplacement.

After the completion of packaging and subsequent procedures the goods of the gar-

ments are sent to the storage department. These goods are released from the factory to

the port prior to 5-7 days of shipment date. Some documents are required to added with

the cartons for example, payment agreement, company trade licence etc. The goods are

received by the port and shipped off to the retailers.

3.2 Cost Benefit Analysis

Costing is a major factor in determining the feasibility of any project. Implementing

tracking into the textile manufacturing process requires significant investment and time.

Implementing tracking will ensure a return of investment in terms of increased pro-

ductivity, managerial efficiency, optimum utilization of resources, accurate inventory

management and complete control over the manufacturing process. The textile manu-

facturers produce hundreds of thousands of complete garments every year. To make the

cost analysis more simple, this section will analyse the costing factors of the implemen-

tation of tracking for the knitting section. Calculating the costing for the overall factory

is a complex process, which requires confidential data on a factory’s finance. It is bet-

ter to analyse tracking on one department initially to find out the feasibility rather than

experimenting on the whole factory. Based on the results of this cost analysis, further

recommendations can be made whether or not to implement on the whole factory.

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Table 2: Barcode Costing for order of 100,000 pieces

Apparatus Quantity Net Expense (USD)

Server + Software Cost 1 4000

Barcodes Labels 800 3.1

RongFengYuan Barcode Scanner 4 280

Input area Desktop Cost 2 1000

Thermal Barcode Label Printer 2 500

Total Expense - 5783.1

The cost breakdown will be given for an order 100,000 pieces of Basic T-shirts. Total

20,000 kgs of fabric is needed for this order. For the knitting of 20,000 kgs of fabric

total 40 knitting machines are needed. Each machines capacity is 500 kg per day. Each

machine will produce 20 rolls of fabric. The total number of rolls for this order is 800

pcs. Each roll will be tagged with a system generated barcode. These barcodes will be

printed on special papers using barcode printer. So, total 800 pcs of barcode labels will

be needed for this stage. Total 2 thermal barcode label printer is needed. These rolls

will be inspected continuously on the inspection table. A total of 4 barcode scanner is

enough for inspection. After inspection, barcodes on the rolls will be scanned by the

barcode scanner and the quality report will be uploaded by the quality controller. Each

inspection table has a scanner mounted on it. After inspection these rolls are sent to the

storage where they are scanned again for inventory management.

Table 3: RFID Costing for order of 100,000 pieces

Apparatus Quantity Net Expense (USD)

Server + Software Cost 1 15000

Active RFID Reader Cost (3000 square feet) 1 1500

RFID Chips Cost 800 88

Input area Desktop Cost 2 1000

Total Expense - 17588

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Breakdown for RFID costs is similar to barcodes. Total 800 pcs of RFID chips will

be tagged to the rolls. Here a RFID reader will be used to read the data from the passive

tags that are attached to the rolls. The reader has a certain range for detecting the RFID

signal. This range depends on the manufacturer’s demand.

Table 4: Total Costing with Barcode in entire manufacturing line

Apparatus Quantity Net Expense (USD)

Server + Software Cost 1 4000

Barcodes Labels 8780 33.4

RongFengYuan Barcode Scanner 32 2240

Input area Desktop Cost 9 4500

Thermal Barcode Label Printer 12 3000

Total - 13773.4

The following costing is done on the whole manufacturing process for a specific order

of 100,000 pcs of basic T-Shirts. 21 tons of yarn is required for the order. Usually yarn

comes in cone form in the factory. Total 4640 barcode label is needed to tag the yarn

cones. Costing of knitting department has already been discussed. In the dyeing section

total 20 barcode label for 20 batches of dyed fabric, 1 barcode label printer and 4 scanner

are required. In finishing section total 20 barcode labels for 20 batches of finished fabric,

1 barcode label printer and 4 scanner are needed. In garment quality section 800 barcode

labels, 2 barcode label printer and 6 scanner are required. In cutting section total 2500

barcode labels for the bundles, 6 barcode label printer and 5 scanner are required. In

sewing section 9 scanner are needed.

4 Overall Equipment Effectiveness(OEE)

4.1 Defining Overall Equipment Effectiveness

The Overall Equipment Effectiveness (OEE) is an effective tool used to measure the

productivity of a manufacturing unit. A 100% OEE score means the factory is manu-

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facturing products as fast as possible without any defects and with no stop time. OEE

is an appropriate system for identifying losses, standardising progress and improving

the efficiency of manufacturing equipment by eliminating waste. By measuring OEE

and the ’6 big losses’, manufactures can easily gain knowledge on how to improve their

manufacturing processes more systematically [oee].

Table 5: Six big losses table [Vorne]

Overall Equipment Effectiveness Recommended Six Big Losses Traditional Six Big Losses

Availability LossUnplanned Stops Equipment Failure

Planned Stops Setup and Adjustments

Perfomance LossSmall Stops Idling and Minor Stops

Slow Cycle Reduced Speed

Quality LossRejected Products Process Defects

Startup Rejects Reduced Yield

OEE Fully Productive Time Valuable Operating Time

For the effective calculation of OEE, some production related data needs to be col-

lected. Such as total run-time of the machine, production down-time, number of prod-

ucts completed, number of rejected products, product completion time etc. To retrieve

these data automatically, all the machines of a specific department needs to be synchro-

nised with the software. The appropriate people use the data by logging into the server.

4.2 Calculating Overall Equipment Effectiveness

In this section we will be calculating the overall equipment effectiveness for the sewing

section of a factory. A sewing section consists of several sewing lines. A sewing line is

the integration of a series of sewing machines that are required to produce a complete

product. The following calculation will be conducted on a single sewing line. Nine

operations are needed in a line to produce a complete basic t-shirt

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The sample data recorded for the first shift of the sewing line were as follows:

Table 6: Sample data for first shift in sewing line

ITEM DATAShift Length 8 hours (480 mins)

Breaks (2) 20 mins and (1) 40 mins

Downtime (machine breakdown, etc) 55 mins

Ideal Cycle Time per operation 20 Sec (0.33 mins)

Total Count 860 pieces

Reject Count 25 pieces

Usually the factories run in different shifts. Shifts can be eight or twelve hours. After

the end of each shift a new group of workers begin the next shift. For the following

calculation, we have chosen a shift of eight hours. Breaks consist of the unproductive

time where the operation is stopped because the operators are scheduled to be away

from their work. We have considered a lunch break of 40 minutes and two 20 minutes

break for relaxation. Downtime is the time when machine was supposed to run but it

was down for some reason (machine breakdown, making the machine ready for new

operation). We have considered fifty five minutes as downtime. The ideal cycle time

is the minimum time required to complete a single operation. We have taken twenty

seconds as ideal cycle time for each operation. Total count is the number of pieces

completed per shift. Parts that do not meet quality standards, cannot be rectified and

needs to be disposed are refered as ’reject count’. Here we have considered 860 pieces

as total count and 25 pieces as reject count.

The major factors for calculating OEE are Availability, Performance and Quality. The

basic formula for calculating OEE is Availability× Performance× Quality [16]

Availability: Availability considers key problems such as losses, including events

that causes disruption in planned production for a significant amount of time. Planned

and unplanned stops are also a part of these losses. Raw material shortage and equip-

ment failure are categorised as unplanned stops. On the other hand; planning setup, time

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for adjusting or making the machine ready are categorised as planned stop. Availability

is the ratio of runtime to planned production time.

Calculating Planned Production time:Planned Production TIme is the total time machines are expected to produce.

PlannedProductionTime = Shi f tLength − Breaks

= 480−80

= 400 minutes

Calculating Runtime time:The Runtime is the actual time in which production is running.

Runtime = PlannedProductionTime − Downtime

= 400−55

= 345 minutes

Since nine operators are working in the line.

The total runtime of the that line = 345× 9 = 3105 minutes

Avaliability = Runtime/PlannedProductiontime

= 345/400

= 0.8625(86%)

Performance: Performance is calculated by considering the reasons that cause the

manufacturing process to slowdown from the maximum possible speed. These losses

include slow cycles and small stops. A process cycle is considered slow when it takes

longer than the ideal cycle time. A small stop is a break in production. Machine-ware,

low material standards, missfeeding and machine jams causes these losses in perfor-

mance.

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Per f ormance = ( IdealCycleTime×TotalCount ) / Runtime

(0.33×860)/345

0.8309(83%)

Quality: Quality is calculated by considering the sewed body parts (front/back parts,

sleeves) that do not meet quality standards or needs rework. Parts that meets quality

standards the first time without any rework are referred as ’good count”.

Calculating Good Count:

GoodCount = TotalCount −Re jectCount

= 860−25

= 835pieces

Calculating Quality:

Quality = GoodCount/TotalCount

= 835/860

= 0.9709(97%)

Calculating Overall Equipment Effectiveness:

OEE = Availability×Per f ormace×Quality

0.8625×0.8309×0.9709

0.6957(70%)

The Overall Equipment Effectiveness of the specific sewing line is 70 percent, which

means there is plenty of scope for improvement of productivity within the line. By

reducing or eliminating the “six big losses" more productivity can be achieved.

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The result for availability was 86%. By reducing availability loss, it is possible to

improve the result of availability. The factors that causes availability loss are equipment

failure, setup and adjustment time. Chances of equipment failure can be minimised by

regularly maintaining the sewing machines. Everytime a new style is introduced into

the line, the machines need to be reassigned to serve the operational purpose. Selecting

the suitable operates for the subsequent operations are crucial for setup and adjustment.

By a proper and guided supervision the setup and adjustment time can be minimised.

This will directly affect the result of availability.

The result for performance was 83 percent. Productivity in terms of performance can

be improved by monitoring the performance losses. The ideal cycle time, total count

and runtime were taken into consideration during calculating performance. The ideal

cycle time per operation was 20 seconds, so each operator should have completed 180

processes in their own stations. If each operator completes 180 operations, in each sta-

tion then at the end of the sewing line 180 complete t-shirts will be produced. With

100 percent productivity rate, ideally 180 complete t-shirts should be produced. As 100

percent efficiency is not attainable, a 15percent allowance is taken into consideration.

So the total count after each hour should be 153 pieces. As the actual run time was 345

minutes (5.75 hours) of an 8 hour shift, the total count should be 880 pieces. But on

the sewing line, the actual “Total count" was 860 pieces. Which means they could have

produced 20 more pieces of complete t-shirts. This productivity loss could happen for

different reasons. Either the employees/operators stayed idle or performed the processes

in a reduced speed than the usual, or there were some problems in the machines or the

management made errors while making the production planning. By properly monitor-

ing the sewing line employees, by making effective plans and by checking the machines

regularly, this issue can be improved.

The result for quality was 97% and the reject count was 25 pieces. This is acceptable

according to standards. Sometimes the rejected garments are sent back to the line for

rectifying the mistakes. But even after that if the quality does not meet the standards,

then the garments are disposed of. Sometimes these rejected products are sold in the

local market for a significantly affordable price.

Calculating OEE for a textile factory is a complex process which requires numerous

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data from different departments. Collecting all these information manually is labour-

some and unproductive. A software synchronization with the machines will retrieve

these datas automatically. A similar software has been developed by ’Shima Seiki

MFG., Ltd.’ for the sweater industry. The same approach could be taken for the knit

and woven sector.

5 Additional recommendations

5.1 Manufacturing perspective

5.1.1 Analysing cutting optimization software

Conventional cutting room operation: The finished fabrics arrives in roll form into the

cutting section. These fabrics are cut into different body parts (front/back parts, sleeves)

in this section. At first different sized patterns for each style are made. Patterns are the

samples of different parts of a garment that are used to cut the fabrics into the desired

body shape. The cutting ratio for each style of garment are received from the manager

of the cutting department, he makes this decision manually based on his experience.

The next stage “marker making", which is a design where all the pattern pieces of all

sizes for a specific style are drawn together. It makes sure that the maximum fabrics

would be used and fabric wastage will be minimum. Fabric rolls that are stored in the

storage section are brought to the cutting room for each style. A quality check done

after the fabric arrives to make sure there is not shade variation and the fabric is ready

for cutting. The received fabrics are spread onto the cutting table, with the help of the

spreader. The markup paper is placed on the top of the fabric and the fabrics are cut

maintaining the marker. Subsequently, all the cut pieces are numbered accordingly to

avoid mixing with other styles. Bundles are made from the cut pieces and are sent for

the next process. This is the conventional cutting room operation [20].

Scopes of development:

• The total calculation process is manual, which makes the system prone to marginal

errors.

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• Operators have limited control over cutting room.

• A Theoretical cut plan, which is made by the cutting. manager who makes the

plan using his or her instinct and experience. Consequently it is estimated and

fabrics cannot saved to it’s capacity. There is an Absence of fabric tracking sys-

tem.

• A Lack of coordination between the cut plan and the fabric grouping(allocation

of the rolls that need to be cut).

• An Absence of real time feedback system.

• The fabrics that are wasted after cutting can be re-used in other orders.

A software based cutting can make the cutting room more organised. Some software

companies are already providing this type of solution.

Features of the cutting system: [21]

• Minimise fabric loss by optimal allocation of markers, plies and rolls automati-

cally.

• Fabric tracking.

• Analysis of cutting room data

• Report generation

• Elimination of all manual cutting paperwork

• Ensuring the proper uses of remnants (wastage)

Functions of the cutting optimization software: Every manufacturer will have a

unique ID and password for logging into the server. The first step is to enter the style

and order details in the system where the style, order number, order quantity, date, style

specifications, colour and size ratios are input. In second step fabric details, measuring

unit and the allowance for marker making is selected. The Quantity for each individual

sizes are put into the system. After accumulating all the data together, the software

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suggests multiple marker plans. A marker plan is the ratio of different sizes and shapes

of a garment to be placed in a marker. The most efficient marker plan is selected by

the department. Fabrics are then grouped in different segments based on their width,

colour and shrinkage. Rolls in each group has a unique ID. Once the grouping is done,

the software will suggest which rolls are to be spread onto the cutting table for the

subsequent marker. Finally, the fabric is cut according to the plan and the optimum

fabric uses are ensured where the wastage in minimal.

This software also ensures the better uses of the wastage received from the cutting.

Sometimes these remnants are used in small quantity orders, while making small body

parts like collars, cuffs or pockets. A cutting report is generated by retrieving all the

information from the system.

Intellocut is one of the cutting optomization software that is available in the Bangladesh

market. It is a product of an Indian company named “Threadsol", which is a software

company. Additionally there is a local company named Tazwan (Pvt.) ltd. who are still

in the development stages and the name of the software is “Fab-master".

5.2 Retail perspective

5.2.1 Analysing Tracking Customer Behaviour

In the ever-challenging business world, fashion retailers face many obstacles. Most

are related to the business extension and maintaining the growing customer database.

Customers are more knowledgeable about the product and simply have more options to

choose from. Any business could gain a competitive advantage by analysing customer

behaviour and psychology. A fashion retailer would benefit from knowing about the

individual needs and preferences of the customer. In fast-paced world of retail outlets

it is more difficult to collect information about the customers. Usually these sorts of

information are collected manually by interviewing the customers, conducting focus

groups and analysing sales records.

A more technological approach can be made by analysing customer behaviour and

needs. If a systematic method can be implemented to study the customers taste and

psychology while they are trialing the clothes in the fitting room, it can be a catalyst for

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the retailers to maintain their outlets and boost up their sales. It will give the retailers

a brief idea about the types of clothes to display, the sizes of clothes to be stocked and

whether to increase the variation in the clothing styles. RFID can be an appropriate

method for the retailers to get these information.

To improve the data collection approach and to reduce human involvement the fol-

lowing experiment was conducted in a high-end fashion retail concept store owned by

a Norwegian lifestyle brand. This particular outlet was one smallest stores in the chain,

which allowed a simpler and easier operational approach. The retailer primarily uses

RFID for inventory control, using a hand-held reader and tablet setup for stocktaking.

As RFID can detect several items in a very short time, it made the the work of the

salesperson much easier by taking the inventory of the entire store in a short period of

time.

The experiment conducted by the retail store [18], RFID antennas were installed in

the fitting rooms to detect multiple items in a short time. As most customers bring more

than 1 item to try on, these antennas are able to detect the garments within the fitting

room. This particular store has three fitting rooms, separated by half height walls from

the surrounding. Each fitting rooms were equipped with individual RFID antennas, con-

nected to a common reader. This reader was used for continuous detection. A computer

connected to the in-store network recorded tags as detected by the antennas and stored

it to an online database. The fitting rooms are covered with metallic foil to prevent

antennas from reading between fitting rooms.

By analysing the collected data from the fitting rooms, the following activities of the

customers were identified:

• The comparison between the quantity of the products trailed in the fitting room

and the products sold. This is comparison more specified between genders.

• Comparison of time spent in fitting rooms by men and women.

• The comparison between the fitting sizes and the sold sizes. For both genders,

a difference in the distribution of sizes sold and fitted were detected. It was ob-

served that the customers tried smaller sizes than they bought.

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Based on the data derived from the system, the retail store had categorized the cus-

tomers into four major segments based on their fitting room behaviour.

1. The looks-customers are the ones who bring identical products in the fitting rooms.

2. The size-customers brings identical products in different sizes into the fitting

room.

3. Size and look customers may emphasize on the sizing parts while considering the

looks of the outfit at the same time

4. There are some customers who combine different categories of products at the

same time based on size, looks and end-use of the products.

These results were helpful for the retailers to determine some significant factors. For

example, the retailer could determine the potential target customers based on their fitting

room and buying activities, products to be displayed and stored according to different

sizes. For this practice to be successful in retail stores, data accuracy and quality in the

fitting room must be assured.

5.3 Customer perspective

5.3.1 Integrating barcodes on garment labels

In today’s world of fashion, customers are more concerned and aware about compliance

than ever. Whether the clothes they are wearing were manufactured by child labour or

the working conditions in factories are safe. Manufacturers are under constant under

pressure by the retailers to follow compliance rules. The majority social compliance

issues are related to proper work environment, fair pay and child labour. Since the

western world is the majority of the end-users, they are more concerned with these

types of issues, especially over the past few decades. But a proper link does not exist

between the clothing manufacturers and customers, most do not know where or how

their clothes are manufactured. Popular retailers such as Nike, Forever 21 and Gap

have faced controversies in their past for unethical conditions in their manufacturing

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countries. But similarly to other industries, if customers were aware, it could affect the

fashion and brand choices.

An interesting concept that could be adopted by retailers to link end-users to their

manufacturers can improve a process that already exists. Some retailers like Marks and

Spencer and Decathlon are instructing their manufacturers to implant RFID chips into

their clothes. The main use for this is to locate products and inventory tracking. But

if manufacturers place unique barcodes or QR codes on the back labels on garments,

information regarding manufactures could be stored within them. All the customer has

to do is scan the barcode using their smartphones. This could automatically redirect

them to the website of the manufactures. At this point, there are many directions this

concept could take. It could firstly be used to find out the source of your garment;

where the yarn was sourced from, whether or not the fabric made of the same material

as advertised. Regarding compliance, Bangladeshi manufacturers have strict standards

to follow, they are assessed monthly by Accord Alliance which they have to pass for

retailers to consider them for manufacturing purposes. Accord Alliance is a binding

agreement between global brands and retailers intended to build a safe and secure work-

ing environment for the Bangladeshi garment industry. Customers will be able to see

the manufacturers compliance score and details before selecting which retailers to trust

in.

Another path that can be taken using this concept is leaving customer reviews by

scanning the barcode. After being redirected to the manufacturers website, customers

will be able to leave reviews of items they have purchased. When new retailers begin

searching for manufacturers in Bangladesh, certain manufacturers with good reviews

will be given an advantage. On the other hand, If customers prefer the quality of one

manufacturer. They will be exposed to new brands and items made by the same manu-

facturer by looking through their website. Consequently, from a marketing perspective,

this method has the potential to increase the manufacturers brand value. If the customer

is able to view all the manufacturers products, he/she may choose to buy products of

other brands produced by the same manufacturer because of the the quality and care

evident by the manufacturer. But retailers may decide not to support this method, as it

might indirectly advertise the goods of other retailers made by the same manufacturers.

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6 Existing tracking in textile manufacturing

In this section we will discuss about the existing technology currently being used and

analyse the future possibilities.

6.0.1 Areas where tracking is already implemented

Over the last few years major retailers such as Puma, Marks and Spencer, Decathlon,

Moncler and Walmart are making it compulsory for manufacturers to include RFID

chips in specific products. The retailers usually specifies the supplier from whom the

chips need to be bought. The retailers also specifies how much data is to be included

in the RFID chips and informs the RFID suppliers about the related information. Chips

used by retailers and manufactures may contain electronic product codes (EPC) that are

encrypted with product code that identifies individual product. The textile manufactures

only need the reference number to collect the chips from the RFID suppliers. At the final

stage of textiles, the item goes to the sewing section where the RFID chips are attached

or sewed onto the finished products. The retailers are then able to utilize the chip for

various purposes. For luxury brands, counterfeiting their items can be costly. European

clothing and accessories brands estimate the total cost of counterfeiting as Euros 26.3

billion (10% of their sales) every year. But having unique RFID chips implanted in

their products can minimise counterfeited purchases by customers, as an RFID chip can

distinctly separate the real from the fake [11]. A convenience factor for have RFIDs

from a customers perspective could be the comfort of paying for items directly through

the chip using a smartphone and paying with applications like Apple Pay. The customer

wouldn’t have to go through the hassle of waiting in line or finding out which stores can

offer the best price. Theft control and tracking is a major use for RFID chips. Inventory

management from the manufacturer and retail side can be controlled using the same

chip.

Finished fabrics are cut into different garment shapes in the cutting room. For exam-

ple a basic t-shirt has different shaped parts including the front and back parts, shoulders

and pockets (if necessary). These parts are grouped into different bundles according to

their shapes. RFID chips or barcodes are attached to each bundle. These bundles are

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now transported to the sewing section. From the sewing section these bundles can be

traced using RFID or barcode readers. The movement of these bundles can now be

monitored. In case bundle missing or mixing, the correspondant person(s) can easily

point out the problem and take necessary steps in order to prevent unnecessary sewing.

Additionally the work performance of each sewing section can be determined through

the analysis of tracking the movement of the bundles along the sewing line.

6.0.2 Dyeing chemical tracking:

Dyeing chemicals are an everyday commodity in textile manufacturing. Dyes are used

to colour original raw materials and consequently the end product. Dyes come in syn-

thetic and natural form. These forms of dyes are combined with water and used for the

colour. Synthetic dyes are generally used for nylon and polyester fabrics and natural

dyes are used for cotton fabrics.

Textile manufacturers require thousands of gallons of dyes every year. Generally they

import these dyes generally from Chinese and European companies. Dyes are shipped

in barrels depending on quantity. Evidently after speaking with Mr. Mohsin of Knit

Concern Group, he revealed they do track dyes chemicals and gained an advantage.

7 Conclusion and Evaluation

7.1 Evaluation

After conceptualizing the recommendations, to get a specialised opinion. These con-

cepts were shared with Mr. A.K.M Mohsin Ahmed, director of Knit Concern Ltd. We

initially interviewed him among others during the research phase of this project. Mr.

Mohsin was kind enough to give us his opinion on the topic through email. (Transcript

available on request).

The focused recommendation of the project was implementing tracking in the existing

textile manufacturing process and Mr. Mohsin’s feedback is as follows: “This seems

like an implementable method for the elaborated textile manufacturing process. As

our competitive countries are adapting with technological changes, we need to do so

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to sustain in the market. This method will increase productivity as well and efficiency

of the factory if implemented correctly. Additionally, this will give a better control

and oversight on individual departments. Since RFID system is more complex and

expensive, it is ideal for the Bangladesh market to use barcode labels or QR codes for

the tracking of raw materials. Though it will take time and effort to make the employees

habituated with this method."

“The idea of the cutting optimization software is a familiar one but our market has

limited knowledge on the software. After studying your recommendation, it seems like

this software can save a great deal of money by saving the wastage of fabric. Almost

60percent of the raw material cost comes from buying fabric. Though this software

will save fabric, it could to be more beneficial if it could directly save money instead of

fabric, beforehand. If this software could give us an idea about the amount of fabric to

be bought for a specific orders, we could save money by not purchasing excess fabric

for the orders."

“The OEE calculation can be of great help to utilize the machine productivity and

performance accurately. It will give a better idea on the productivity, quality and per-

formance of a factory. This will help evaluating the employee performance as well. We

can get a proper idea about the actual cause of low efficiency from this calculation. This

will also be helpful for the planning department to identify the shortcomings. But to do

the calculation we need certain information about the shift length, machine run time etc.

To collect all these data from individual departments, a functionable software is needed.

Manual collection the data is time consuming and more complex, for the successful

calculation of OEE a software is compulsory.

Creating a direct link between consumers and manufacturers has not been considered

yet. We do not put enough effort in marketing because it has never been needed, but

if we can increase our popularity between consumers and retailers. It could result in

more future orders. We will also need to become more transparent and open with our

day to day operations, safety issues and employee welfare with the public. It is a big

challenge whether or not the retails will agree to such exposure of the manufacturers to

the consumers."

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7.2 Conclusion

The Bangladeshi textile industry is adapting with new technological changes in order to

compete with countries Myanmar, Vietnam etc. This project has proposed various rec-

ommendations that are possible with the use of tracking technology in this developing

industry. In the ideal manufacturing factory it is possible to execute most of the rec-

ommendations together to generate the best possible output. As previously mentioned,

the implementation of tracking in the entire manufacturing process is attainable. But

alongside, the the cutting optimization software can be synchronised with the existing

tracking. Roll allocation is an important part of the cutting optimization software. Since

the rolls have already been tracked in the cutting room with barcode labels, it will make

the work of the cutting software easier to allocate them and make a correct suggestion

about which rolls are to be selected and spread on the table for cutting. The overall

equipment effectiveness (OEE) system can also be implemented alongside to get a bet-

ter idea about the efficiency of the manufacturing unit and the performance of both men

and machines. On the other hand, adding barcode tags on finished product will interlink

the customers directly with the manufacturers. Customers will be able to leave reviews

and will get an insight about the manufacturing conditions and the people behind it.

The topic of this project was initially selected because of my intention of working in

the textile sector after graduation. Fully understanding the complex manufacturing and

it’s surrounding processes is essential when working in this sector. In the near future

I hope to work further on implementing tracking and other technological innovations

that still need to be improved in order for Bangladesh to compete with it’s rivals in

this field. This project could serve as a guide for my future career in this lucrative and

ever-growing industry.

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8 Interviews

8.1 Interview 1:

The first interview was held in the factory of Knit Concern Group (5th January 2019,

11:00am) in Narayanganj, Bangladesh. I talked with Mr. AKM Mohsin Ahmed- Di-

rector and Mr. Partho Roy- Assistant Manager (Dyeing & Finishing). Afterwards we

toured the factory floor, starting from knitting department to the sewing floor. (The

interviews were recorded in Bengali. The translated transcript will be available on re-

quest)

The interview format included me asking open questions and the interviewee and

I having a discussion. The general questions asked during the interview were about

the demands of the buyers and preferences, importance of technology in the industry,

currently what types of technology is being implemented; the types of software used,

industrial challenges.

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The following is a summary of the conversations. “The competition in the textile

industry has become very high and sustaining in the market is a challenge that requires

a competitive advantage in terms of new advantages, developed methods, cheap manu-

facturing cost (low price). The buyers are constantly pressuring us to reduce the price."

Technology has it’s own advantage. In recent years the industry has become more prone

to the use of technology in textile manufacturing. The competitive countries like China

and Vietnam are using technologies more frequently to their advantage, it has become

a necessity for Bangladesh market to adapt to technological changes. “In terms of im-

porting dying chemicals, a tracking system is being used to track chemicals and dyes.

The dyes chemicals that is being imported includes a qr code, that is attached to barrel.

These barrels have some selected information beforehand by the suppliers. Manufactur-

ers can scan and retrieve information such as chemical properties, country origin, colour

fastness etc." Additionally, he described the ERP system in textile, he explained how the

ERP system works, why and when they bought it, it’s advantages, limitations and areas

where it can be improved.

The factory tour was given by Mr. Partho Roy, who guided me around each section

of the factory and explained the manufacturing process in detail. He allowed me to

take pictures which I was able to use for the project. Additionally, he gave his opinion

on where tracking could possibly be used to make his job easier while overseeing the

dyeing and finishing departments.

8.2 Interview 2:

The second interview was held in Fakir Fashion Ltd (8th January 2019, 11:00am) in

Araihazar, Bangladesh. I talked with Mr. Javed Kamal- Head of Business Development

and Mr. Raihan Islam- Senior Officer MIS. Mr. Fakir Wahiduzzaman Riyead gave me

permission to tour the factory and research for this project.

With Mr. Javed, the conversation focused on the existing manufacturing process and

constraints. We also theorised a way tracking can be used in the existing manufactur-

ing process.(The interview was recorded in Bengali. The translated transcript will be

available on request)

The following is the summary of the conversation between Mr. Javed and I. “Tex-

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tile manufacturing includes several departments. During the manufacturing process raw

materials move from department to department, constantly at a very high quantity. Each

factory produces hundreds of thousands of products every week. Keeping track of the

raw materials manually as it moves from process to process is a complex method. Usu-

ally individual employees of individual departments keeps data of the progress. Lots

of computerised logs are kept manually. This is not an effective system. Human er-

ror leads to missing data, misplacement of data, etc. Instead of a manual approach, an

automated tracking system will solve many of these problems." Fakir Fashion has al-

ready started implementing tracking, but on a small scale. They have been tracking the

cut bundles using barcodes in the cutting section. After studying and discussing their

bundle tracking process with barcodes, we have tried to theorise this technology to the

overall manufacturing process.

Mr. Raihan was kind enough to give us a descriptive factory tour for a better under-

standing. He also showed us the barcode label printer and how the barcodes are tagged

on the bundles and later how they are tracked in the sewing line.

8.3 Interview 3

The final interview was held in Ajax Sweater Ltd (16th January 2019, 12:00pm) in

Savar, Bangladesh. I talked with Mr. Gourav Singh- Industrial Engineering Manager.

We also toured the factory together.

During our conversation, Mr. Gourav gave us detailed idea about Overall Equipment

Efficiency calculation and it’s uses. It is a sweater factory and I was able to learn the

differences between sweater and knitting manufacturing. According to Mr. Gourav

OEE calculation has helped them a great deal in getting an overview of the factory

efficiency and the actual causes behind the deficiency of effectiveness and efficiency.

They use a software called Shima Seiki SPR 2, which allows them to collect some

partial datas related to the calculation. The other required data is collected manually.

Shima Seiki is planning to bring a new software into the market, which will allow the

manufacturers to get all the needed information automatically. The name of the software

will be SPR 3. Mr. Gourav also explained about the “six big losses" of OEE. During

the factory tour, I got to know that sweater manufacturing is an emerging market for

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Bangladesh. Investment is relatively lower compared to other textile sectors. Shima

Seiki is one of the pioneers in sweater manufacturing machines.

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