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TOTAL ANALYSIS OF FOUNDATION CREAM
Integrated Chemical Practice Report
By ICP Group 8 Class XIII-6
Nur Az Zahra 08.54.06271Rima Amalia 08.54.06299Ulfahanny Rachsetya Sandy 08.54.06336Verawati Rahman 08.54.06337
MINISTRY OF INDUSTRY OF REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA
Center for Industrial Education and Training
Bogor High School of Chemical Analyst
Bogor
2011
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RATIFICATION SHEET
Approved and Acknowledged by:
Approved by,
Rusman, M.SiNIP 19781113 200502 1 1 001
Advisor
Acknowledged by,
Hj Sulistiowati, S.Si, M.PdNIP 19590506 198403 2 001
Vice Principal for Educational Skill
2
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Finally authors hope that this report can be useful for all SMAKBOs
students and reader in general.
Bogor, Oktober 2011
Authors,
4
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CONTENTS
PREFACE............................................................................................................iii
Tables..................................................................................................................vi
Figures.............................................................................................................. ..vii
PART I INTRODUCTION........... ........... ............ ............ ........... ............ ......... ..... ..1
A. Background................................................................................................1B. Purpose......................................................................................................3
PART II LITERATURE REVIEW...........................................................................4A. Definition of Cream....................................................................................4B. Foundation Cream............................................................................... ......4
1. Liquid Foundations:................................................................................5
2. Cream Foundations:...............................................................................5
3. Powder Foundations:..............................................................................5
C. Ingredients of Foundation Cream...........................................................5
1. White Petroleum Jelly.............................................................................6
2. Oxybenzone...........................................................................................73. Squalane............................................................................................. ...8
4. Isopropyl Myristate.................................................................................9
5. Propyl Parabene.....................................................................................9
6. Titanium Dioxide...................................................................................10
7. Lanolin..................................................................................................11
8. Tocopheryl Acetate...............................................................................12
9. Beeswax...............................................................................................12
PART III ANALYSIS METHOD...........................................................................14A. Organoleptic Test.....................................................................................14
1. Principle :..............................................................................................14
2. Apparatus and Materials.......................................................................14
3. Procedure.............................................................................................14
B. Preservatives test.....................................................................................15
1. Principle................................................................................................15
2. Reaction...............................................................................................15
3. Apparatus.............................................................................................15
5
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4. Materials...............................................................................................16
5. Procedure:............................................................................................16
C. Determination of Microbe Contamination by Total Plate Count Method17
1. Principe................................................................................................17
2. Apparatus.............................................................................................17
3. Materials...............................................................................................18
4. Procedure.............................................................................................18
D. Staphylococcus aureus Test Using Pour Plate Method........................19
1. Principle:...............................................................................................19
2. Apparatus.............................................................................................19
3. Materials...............................................................................................19
4. Procedure:............................................................................................19
E. Pseudomonas aeruginosa Test Using Pour Plate method.......................20
1. Principe:...............................................................................................20
2. Apparatus.............................................................................................20
3. Materials...............................................................................................20
4. Procedure:............................................................................................20
F. Candida albicans Test Using Pour Plate Method.....................................21
1. Principe:...............................................................................................21
2. Apparatus.............................................................................................21
3. Materials...............................................................................................21
4. Procedure:............................................................................................22
G. Qualitative Test of Rhodamine B Using TLC........................................22
1. Principe:...............................................................................................22
2. Apparatus.............................................................................................22
3. Materials...............................................................................................23
4. Procedure:............................................................................................23
PART V CONCLUSION AND SUGGESTION.....................................................26
A. Conclusion...............................................................................................26B. Suggestion...............................................................................................26
REFERENCES...................................................................................................27
ATTACHMENT...................................................................................................29
ATTACHMENT
6
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Tables
Table 1 SNI 16-6064-1999 about Foundation Cream .........................................14
Table 2 Standard and Result of Analysis ............................................................24
Table 3 Propylparaben Analysis Data .................................................................29
Table 4 Total Plate Count Analysis Data ............................................................29
Table 5 Pathogen Bacteria Qualitative Test ........................................................29
Table 6 Pathogen Fungi Qualitative Test ............................................................29
Table 7 Thin Layer Chromatography ..................................................................29Table 7 Thin Layer Chromatography
7
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PART I
INTRODUCTION
A. Background
Being beautiful is the desire of all women. Many ways are used to be
looked more beautiful, one of them is by using cosmetics such as makeup,
hair coloring, skin lightening soap, lightening face cream, and others.
Cosmetics are materials used to treat and beautify themselves so
that it can affect the appearance and increase self-confidence. Cosmetology
is the science connected by the chemistry, physics, biology, and
microbiology about production, storage, and uses of cosmetics material.Cosmetics have been known since 3500 BC. Egypt had been used
the plants, animals, honey, milk, and the other as beauty product. Since 19th
century, cosmetics started to be an important thing, not only for the beauty
but also for healthcare. But the biggest development is start at 20th century
and cosmetics become one part of the industrial world. Nowadays, cosmetics
technology is very sophisticated and integration of cosmetics and drugs
(pharmaceutical) or known as the term medical cosmetics (cosmeceuticals).
Over the times, most of the purpose of using cosmetics begins tochange. Now, cosmetics are used for body treatment, beauty, and protection
of hair and skin towards the adverse of environmental effects and increase
confidence in the association.
There is no doubt that the cosmetic product is needed by human,
whether male or female, from birth until death, its products are used over and
over every day and we use it on our entire body, from head to toe, so it is
very necessary for us to use the safe cosmetics. We use cosmetics more
than drugs. It is because the drug is only used when someone gets pain,
while the cosmetics are used as a new life style.
The definition of COSMETIC based on BPOM (No.
HK.00.05.4.1745 May, 5th 2003), cosmetic is a material or supply used in
outer parts of human body (epidermis, hair, nails, lips, and outer parts of
genital organs) or teeth and mucosa primarily for cleaning, fragrance,
changing the appearance and or treat the body odor or keep body in a good
condition.
1
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1
Cosmetics are material or material mixture to be rubbed, attached,
poured, sprinkled or sprayed, used on body part to clean, care, protect,
increase the sex appeal, changing the appearance, treat the body odor, but
dont intend to cure or heal then illness. (Depkes RI, Undang-undang tentangKosmetika dan Alat Kesehatan, 1976)
Traditional cosmetics are cosmetic consist of nature material and it is
made by using traditional process. Beside traditional cosmetics there are
semi-traditional cosmetics. Semi-traditional cosmetics are traditional
cosmetics made by modern process and using synthetic chemical
substance. Not all of the cosmetic material is suitable for every skin
condition. If there is unsuitable condition it will cause skin irritation. So, pay
attention to the chemical composition that written in every product.Meanwhile, hipoallergic cosmetic is cosmetic which not contain irritation-
cause substance. This kind of cosmetic is safer for skin health.
Types cosmetics based on the function are: (numbering awalnya dg
alphabet)
1. Cleanser cosmetics (example: shampoo, body lotion, soap)
2. Fragrance cosmetics (example: cologne, perfume)
3. Cosmetics for changing appearance (example: hair oil, hair gel, hair
foam, makeup)4. Protection cosmetics (example: deodorant, antiperspirant, sun block,
sunscreen)
5. Healthcare cosmetics (anti acne, moisturizer)
A kind of the cosmetic is foundation cream. Foundation cream is one
of cosmetics that usually used by women as the coats of face before using
other makeup, such as compact powder, etc that makes makeup stand
longer.
We choose foundation cream to be analyzed is because foundationcream is often used by women. Sometimes people dont care how safe the
product is. So it used by the irresponsible producer to make sometimes a
dangerous product for human healthy. The most important they have is able
to make a cheaper product, but still give a satisfied effect for user. Where the
materials are from the dangerous chemicals such as mercury, hydroquinone,
and so on.
We analyze one product of foundation cream we can found in the
market with the very cheap price. The product is not labeled the expired
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2
date. And from people who use it, this product is very useful to make the skin
face very smooth, soft, cure the acnes and other function, just in a short time.
If this product is really make all of advantage like that, it should has more
cost. But why this product has very little cost. This is one of the reasons whywe choose this product to be analyzed.
A. Purpose
Integrated chemical practice held with purpose to increase
SMAKBOs student knowledge about commodity composition that usually
used and can be accessed freely by the consumer. The purpose of this
analysis is to know the quality of foundation cream in the market. This
analysis conducted includes all of the parameters that listed in Indonesian
National Standard (SNI) No. 16-6064-1999.
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2
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PART II
LITERATURE REVIEW
A. Definition of Cream
Creams are semi-solid emulsions that are mixtures of oil and water.
They are divided into two types: oil-in-water (O/W) creams which are
composed of small droplets of oil dispersed in a continuous phase, and
water-in-oil (W/O) creams which are composed of small droplets of water
dispersed in a continuous oily phase. Oil-in-water creams are more
comfortable and cosmetically acceptable as they are less greasy and more
easily washed off using water. Water-in-oil creams are more difficult to
handle but many drugs which are incorporated into creams are hydrophobic
and will be released more readily from a water-in-oil cream than an oil-in-
water cream. Water-in-oil creams are also more moisturizing as they provide
an oily barrier which reduces water loss from the stratum corneum, the
outermost layer of the skin.
In type of cosmetics, cream most used as medium for the component
that serve to maintain the skin moisture, skin soften, prevent the loss of
water, and maintain the active agent on the skin. The compositions are
softener, moisturizer, emulsifier, active agent, solvent, cleanser,
preservatives and fragrances.
B. Foundation Cream
Foundation, as the name suggests, is the first cosmetic to be applied
on face while doing makeup to serve as the base for the look that you are
going to paint later. The wise selection of the just the right foundation that
suits your skin, color and tone is quite necessary as it determines whether you are going to look naturally beautiful having a flawless smooth skin or
quite artificial as if you have put on a mask of cosmetic layers. A number of
brands claim to produce the most suitable foundation for your face. There
are various types of foundations such as the hypoallergenic and allergy-
tested foundation for those who suffer from skin allergies; liquid, cream,
powder or cake foundation to suit various seasons; oil-free foundation for oily
skin; stick foundation for the handbags; stay-on foundation to last for longer
periods of time and camouflage foundation to hide skin blemishes and give a
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smooth skin-effect. However, most of the foundations can fit into three
categories:
1. Liquid Foundations:A thin film of liquid foundation is best for 'natural look' makeup and
is most commonly used by women for daily purposes. It is easy to apply
and is not easily visible. It comes in oil-based formulas for people with dry
to normal skin and water-based formulas for people with oily skin. It is
very important to match the foundation to your natural face complexion
and the tone of your color. Most of the foundations come in pink-based,
orange-based and yellow-based formulas. Yellow base is said to fit most
of the women and is thus, very popular.
2. Cream Foundations:
Mostly available as sticks and compacts, cream foundations are
the first choice of most of the makeup artists as they cover skin quite well
and give a flawless smooth look. They are easy to apply too.
3. Powder Foundations:
If you don't have much time and need quick solution, dual active
powder foundations or cream to powder foundations are the best options
for you, which combines the action of foundation and powder in one.
These foundations can be applied as cream or powder and give a quick
dry fresh-face look. They are especially suited to people with oily skin or
areas where humidity is quite high.
A. Ingredients of Foundation Cream
In foundation cream we use to be analyzed, it contain White
Petroleum Jelly, Isopropyl myristate, Beeswax, Titanium dioxide, Talc,
Lanolin, Squalane oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Benzophenone-3, Fragrance,
Propylparaben, C.I. 19140, C.I. 15985
1. White Petroleum Jelly
Petroleum jelly is a semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons, having a
melting-point usually within a few degrees of 75 C (167 F). It is only
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flammable when heated to liquid, then the fumes will light, not the liquid
itself, so a wick material like leaves, bark, or small twigs is needed to light
petroleum jelly. It is colorless, or of a pale yellow color (when not highly
distilled), translucent, and devoid of taste and smell when pure. It does notoxidize on exposure to the air and is not readily acted on by chemical
reagents. It is insoluble in water. It is soluble in dichloromethane,
chloroform, benzene, diethyl ether, carbon disulfide and oil of turpentine.
There is a common misconception that petroleum jelly and glycerol
(glycerine) are physically similar, because they feel similar when applied
to human skin. While petroleum jelly is a non-polar hydrocarbon
hydrophobic (water-repelling) and insoluble in water, glycerol (not a
hydrocarbon but an alcohol) is the opposite: it is so strongly hydrophilic(water-attracting) that by continuous absorption of moisture from the air, it
produces the feeling of wetness on the skin, similar to the greasiness
produced by petroleum jelly. Several uses of white petroleum jelly are:
a. During World War II, a variety of petroleum jelly called dark red
veterinary petroleum jelly was often included in life raft survival kits.
Acting as a sunscreen, it provides protection against ultraviolet rays.
b. Most petroleum jelly today is consumed as an ingredient in skin
lotions and cosmetics. Although petrolatum is less expensive thanglycerol - the most common active lubricating ingredient in skin lotion,
it is not used in expensive lotions, because it is not absorbed into the
skin, resulting in a greasy feel.
c. Petroleum jelly is often used by players of American football. The jelly
is applied under the eyes, and is used to keep dirt or sand out of the
eyes during plays.
d. Petrolatum is a useful material when incorporated into candle wax
formulas. The petrolatum softens the overall blend, allows the candleto incorporate additional fragrance oil, and facilitates adhesion to the
sidewall of glass.
e. Petroleum jelly is used to moisten plasticine, as part of a mix of
hydrocarbons including greater (paraffin wax) and lesser (mineral oil)
molecular weights.
f. It is frequently applied on the face in mixed martial arts to prevent
unnecessary cuts and tears from blows
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1. Oxybenzone
Oxybenzone (trade names Eusolex 4360, Escalol 567) is
an organic compound used in sunscreens. It forms colorless crystals that
are readily soluble in most organic solvents.
It is used as an ingredient in sunscreen and other cosmetics
because it absorbs UVB and short-wave UVA (ultraviolet)
rays. Oxybenzone was one of the first compounds incorporated into
sunscreen formulations to offer enhanced UVA protection because its
absorption spectrum extends to less than 350 nm. Oxybenzone's ability to
absorb UV rays is due to a variety of molecular interactions. In this
compound, both of the phenyl rings can interact with the C=O group
through inductive effects and mesomeric effects. The overlapping of the
bonds of both phenyl rings and that of the C=O creates a completely
conjugated molecule as evidenced by the MO diagram. This causes the
C=O group to lose part of its individual character as it integrates with the
two phenyl rings. This stabilizes the system due to the transference of
electron deficiency from the carbon of the carbonyl towards three of the
carbons of the phenyl rings.
A 2008 study by the US Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention found the compound to be present in 96.8% of human urinesamples analyzed as part of the National Health and Nutrition
Examination Survey. The FDA and governing agencies in Canada and the
EU have approved the use of oxybenzone as a safe and effective
sunscreen ingredient.
Picture 1 Oxybenzone
2. Squalane
Squalane is a natural hydrocarbon and triterpene derived from a
variety of plant and animal sources. It is a component of human sebum.
Squalane is a saturated analog of squalene, from which it can also be
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produced by hydrogenation and most stable form of Squalene. It is easily
absorbed into the skin and has been extensively studied by scientists for
its health properties long before it was introduced for beauty care.
According to the World Health Organization, it is a naturally occurringsubstance found in humans, plants and animals. It is used in a variety of
foods, cosmetics, over the counter medications and health supplements,
as well as pharmaceutical products and vaccines. The production of
squalane by the human body is at its greatest throughout our childhood
years and rapidly decreases as we reach our mid-twenties. As stated on
ihealthdirectory.com, giving the body squalane by means of oil or health
supplements can contribute to a healthier skin and body.
Squalene has antioxidant properties and antioxidants may protectyour cells from the damaging effect of free radicals. Free radicals can
prematurely age the skin. However, as extracted from the original source,
it is not stable so a hydrogenation process is applied to create squalane
which has a more stable form which is preferred for use in skin care
products.
The presence of squalane in cosmetics and other skin care can
help protect the skin from drying out and also creates a barrier against
ultraviolet rays, which can aid in the appearance of aging, keeps the skinsupple and lubricated and free from imperfections such as acne.
3. Isopropyl Myristate
Isopropyl myristate is an organic combination of isopropyl alcohol
and myristic acid. Isopropyl myristate is a fatty acid compound that is used
in cosmetics as a binder. Some of the common products in which it is
used include moisturizers, perfumes, deodorants, bath oils and shaving
creams. It is also used as part of a natural lice treatment option. Despiteits myriad uses, there is some danger associated with its use.
Many moisturizers use a combination of petrolatum and isopropyl
myristate because petrolatum is not easily absorbed in the skin, while
isopropyl myristate is. When these two substances combine, the products
can be absorbed too deeply into the skin, clogging the pores. The result is
that moisturizers with isopropyl myristate may choke the supply of oxygen
into the skin. The inevitable result is dead skin, since the skin is deprived
of this essential nutrient.
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Isopropyl myristate also causes other undesirable problems that
can become dangerous when left unchecked. Since it is primarily used on
the skin, it causes mild to severe irritation of the skin; but also on the eyes
and respiratory system. When used in combination with a hydrocortisonein topical preparations, isopropyl myristate can result in cracking of the
skin, acne, inflammation in the hair follicles and sweating.
Picture 2 Isopropyl Myristate
4. Propyl ParabenePropylparaben is one of the most widely used preservatives in
foods, drugs and cosmetic products. It is prized for its antimicrobial
properties and has been in common use since the mid-20th century. It is
part of the family of para-hydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA) esters that also
includes ethylparaben, methylparaben, isopropylparaben, butylparaben,
isobutylparaben and benzylparaben. Because it is readily absorbed
through the skin and the lining of the gastrointestinal tract, its safety has
been widely studied.Propylparaben and the other parabens are used in cosmetics and
other products, including foods and pharmaceuticals, to guard against
microbial growth, according to the FDA's 2006 report. That report pointed
out that two or more parabens are usually combined in a product to
provide a preservative effect against the broadest possible range of
microorganisms. The use of mixtures such as this "allows the use of lower
levels while increasing preservative activity," the FDA observed
.
Picture 3 Propyl Paraben
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5. Titanium Dioxide
Titanium dioxide, also known as titanium(IV) oxide or titania, is the
naturally occurring oxide of titanium, chemical formula TiO2. When used
as a pigment, it is called titanium white,Pigment White 6, or CI 77891. It
has a wide range of applications, from paint to sunscreen to food
colouring. When used as a food colouring, it has E number E171.
In cosmetic and skin care products, titanium dioxide is used as a
pigment, sunscreen and a thickener. It is also used as a tattoo pigment
and in styptic pencils. Titanium dioxide is produced in varying particle
sizes, oil and water dispersible, and with varying coatings for the cosmetic
industry. This pigment is used extensively in plastics and other
applications for its UV resistant properties where it acts as a UV absorber,
efficiently transforming destructive UV light energy into heat.
Titanium dioxide is found in almost every sunscreen with a
physical blocker because of its high refractive index, its strong UV light
absorbing capabilities and its resistance to discolouration
under ultraviolet light. This advantage enhances its stability and ability to
protect the skin from ultraviolet light. Sunscreens designed for infants or
people with sensitive skin are often based on titanium dioxide and/or zinc
oxide, as these mineral UV blockers are believed to cause less skinirritation than other UV absorbing chemicals. The titanium dioxide
particles used in sunscreens have to be coated with silica or alumina,
because titanium dioxide creates radicals in the photocatalytic reaction.
These radicals are carcinogenic, and could damage the skin.
6. Lanolin
Lanolin is oil secreted from the glands of sheep, found in their
wool. Once sheep have been sheared, their wool is scoured, or deeply
cleaned. It is during this process that the oil is extracted from the wool and
later refined for use, typically in skin creams and makeup. There are
several benefits to using lanolin.
Lanolin has been used as a moisturizer since the time of the
ancient Greeks. The oil is easily absorbed by the skin and prevents
excessive moisture loss. People who shear sheep are constantly
exposing their hands to the oil; thus their hands are smooth and
moisturized. Nursing mothers sometimes use specialized lanolin cream to
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prevent cracked and painful nipples. Lanolin can also be found in some
kinds of lip balm, as it eases dried lips, and in products to treat diaper rash
and minor burns.
Lanolin is also beneficial as a conditioner for the hair and scalp.Just as with skin, lanolin helps the hair and scalp retain moisture. Despite
its obvious benefits in hair care, it can also be detrimental. The oil may be
too heavy and greasy for use on thin or straight hair, leaving the hair
looking unclean and weighed down. As such, it is recommended for use
with thick, curly hair, and even at that, it should be used sparingly.
Sailors often coat the propellers and bottoms of their ships with
lanolin. Because the oil is very dense and greasy, it is difficult for objects
to adhere to it. When it is used on propellers and ship bottoms, for instance, barnacles are unable to attach to the ship.
This natural oil is often used as an ingredient in shoe polish. Since
lanolin has the natural ability to repel moisture, it is an ideal for use in
protecting leather shoes from damage caused by water. Additionally, it
can restore shine and soften shoes.
The oil is also beneficial as a lubricant. Because of its ability to
deter water, it prevents objects that are exposed to water from being
corroded. It is particularly useful in lubricating and protecting stainlesssteel and other types of metal. It is often used to lubricate the tuning
slides of brass instruments. It can also be applied on garden tools,
sporting equipment and for automotive care.
Lanolin is commonly used in cleaning agents and can be helpful in
removing tar, oil, carbon and grease. It is useful in heavy-duty cleaning,
as well as in household cleaning. If you are going to paint a metal surface,
you may consider cleaning it with lanolin first to ensure that the surface is
completely devoid of dirt and grease.
7. Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopheryl acetate, also known as vitamin E acetate, is a common
vitamin supplement with the molecular formula C 31 H52O 3 (for '' form). It is
the ester of acetic acid and tocopherol (vitamin E). It is often used
in dermatological products such as skin creams. Tocopherol acetate is not
oxidized and can penetrate through the skin to the living cells, where
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about 5% is converted to free tocopherol and provides beneficial
antioxidant effects.
Tocopheryl acetate is used as an alternative to tocopherol itself
because the phenolic hydroxyl group is blocked, providing a less acidicproduct. It is believed that the acetate is slowly hydrolyzed once it is
absorbed into the skin, regenerating tocopherol and providing protection
against the sun's ultraviolet rays.
8. Beeswax
Beeswax is the material honeybees use to make their
honeycombs. Beeswax has been a traditional material used for thousands
of years for a variety of purposes, including painting, embalming, candlemaking, and letter sealing. Today beeswax is still a commonly used
ingredient in many health and beauty care products, wood finishes and
even instrument seals.
Beeswax is a coating for some brands of natural dental floss to
help the floss glide between teeth. Beeswax is also a common ingredient
in lip balms, lotions, natural soap products and other cosmetics. Men also
use beeswax as a beard or mustache wax.
Beeswax is a lubricant for drills and saws when working withmetals. The beeswax keeps edges sharp. Use beeswax to lubricate small
machines such as vacuum cleaners and sewing machines. Use beeswax
to lubricate squeaky door hinges and sticky windows as well. Work stuck
nuts loose by lubricating the nuts with beeswax before loosening with a
wrench. Prevent bronze from oxidizing by applying a mixture of beeswax
and turpentine. Brush on the mixture and then wipe it off lightly with a
towel to leave a thin coat to protect the bronze. Preserve a copper sink by
coating it with soft beeswax and wiping off the excess beeswax with a softcloth.
Use beeswax to wax an Oboe reed thread before inserting it to
ensure a tight fit. Apply beeswax to the outer surface of wood guitars to
protect these surfaces. The beeswax will keep the wood protected and in
good condition.
Beeswax is a common ingredient in natural chewing gum. Use
beeswax to glaze fruits and as an outer covering for some candies as
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well. Beeswax is also used as a coating inside the molds for some candy-
making processes to ensure the candies pop out uniformly.
Beeswax is a superior leather conditioner that will enhance the
waterproof nature of leather products. Use beeswax as a natural woodfinish and sealant by mixing equal parts of beeswax and mineral oil. Heat
the mixture in a double boiler and rub onto the surface of wood toys and
objects. Rub out the excess mixture with a soft cloth.
Melt natural beeswax on the stove top and use it to dip or pour
homemade candles. The candle products made from natural beeswax are
sweet smelling without adding additional scents to the candles. Many
believe beeswax candles to be superior to paraffin candles due to their
longer and cleaner burning. There is no soot released into the air whenburning beeswax candles.
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PART III
ANALYSIS METHOD
We analyze foundation cream we can found in market. We analyze itbased on SNI 16-6064-1999, which describe below:
Table 1 SNI 16-6064-1999 about Foundation Cream
No Explanation Units Standard1 Description - -Homogeneous-Free unidentified particle2 Coloring agent
%
Based on PerMenKes RINo.445/MenKes/Per/V/1998
a. D&C Orange No. 17 CI 12075
(Pigment Orange 5)
Negative
b. D&C Red No. 19 CI 45170(Rhodamine B)
Negative
c. C.I 45170:1 (Solvent Red) Negatived. D&C Red No. 8 C.I 15585
(Pigment Red 53 )Negative
e. D&C Red No. 9 C.I 15585:1(Pigment Red 53 : 1)
Negative
3 Preservatives agent % max 0.44 Microbe Contamination
a. Total Plate Count colony/g Maximum 10 5
b. Staphylococcus aureus colony/g Negativec. Pseudomonas aeruginosa colony/g Negatived. Candida albicans colony/g Negative
A. Organoleptic Test
1. Principle :
Based on the observation of homogenity and cream stabilization
using human senses.
1. Apparatus and Materials
a. Sampleb. Watch glass
c. Stationery
1. Procedure
a. Sample prepared on the container to be tested
b. Take the sample by finger, then peel it to hand
c. Observe the texture and homogenity of sample
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A. Preservatives test
The preservative contain in this foundation cream is propylparaben. The
procedure to determine propylparaben is based on SNI 16-4771.1 KodeksKosmetika volume I.
1. Principle
Analyte oxidized by measurable excess KBrO 3, the excess of KBrO 3
will react with KBr become Br 2, Br 2 will oxidize KI become I 2 that will be
titrated by Tio using starch indicator with the end point is colorless.
1. Reaction
2KBr I2KIBr
sisa
O3H3Br 6KCl6HCl5KBr KBrO
22
223
++
++++
6423222 OS Na2NaIOS2NaI ++
2. Apparatus
a. Weighing bottle
b. Analytical balance
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c. Glass Stoppered erlenmeyer 500ml
d. Tripod stand
e. Teklu burner
f. Wire Gauzeg. Reflux
h. Basin
i. Volumetric Pipette 25ml
j. Measuring cylinder 50ml
k. Beaker glass 400ml
l. Beaker glass 800ml
m. Dropper pipette
n. Burette 50 mlo. Clamp
p. Stative
q. Bulb
1. Materials
a. Sample
b. Aquadest
c. Na 2S 2O 3 0.1 Nd. KBrO 3 0.0333M
e. KBr 12,5%
f. KIO3
g. Acetic Acid Glacial
h. HCl (c)
i. HCl 4N
j. KI 1N
k. KI 10%l. Starch Indicator
1. Procedure:
a. Weighed 80mg of sample
b. Boiled carefully using reflux by adding 25 ml NaOH 2N for 30 minutes
c. Let it cool, then it is transferred to glass stopper erlenmeyer
d. Add 25ml of Potassium bromate 0,0333 M, 5 ml of potassium
bromide concentrated 12,5%, and 40 ml of glacial acetic acid, cool it
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in ice, add 10 ml of hydrochloric acid concentrated, immediately cover
the flask, wait for 15 minutes
e. Add 15ml of potassium iodide 1N, mix it
f. Titrate the released iodium with sodium tiosulfate 0,1N then add 2 mlof starch indicator when the titration is close to the end point.
g. Do the blank titration, the difference between blank and sample
titration is showing amount of potassium bromate needed
h. Volume of potassium bromate 0,0333M is equivalent with a half
volume of sodium tiosulfate 0,1 N needed in titration
i. Each ml of potassium bromate 0,0333M is equivalent with 6,007mg
Propylparaben
A. Determination of Microbe Contamination by Total Plate Count
Method
1. Principe
The growth of aerob mesofil bacteria colonies, after the sample is
inoculated to the plate agar media by using pour plate method, and
incubated for 24 hours with temperature 37 oC.
1. Apparatus
a. Serological pipette 10ml
b. Serological pipette 1 ml
c. Petri dish
d. Test tube
e. Test tube rack
f. Bulb
g. Autoclaveh. Triple beam balance
i. Erlenmeyer 100 ml
j. Measuring cylinder 100ml
k. Methylated spirit burner
l. Oven
m. Incubator
n. Colony counter
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1. Materials
a. Bactopeptone Water
b. Sample
c. Physiological Solution
d. KH 2PO 4
e. NaOH 1N
f. PCA medium
g. Alcohol 70%
h. Spiritus
1. Procedure
a. Prepare 5 sterile test tube and 7 sterile petri dish
b. Weigh 5 gram of sample and diluted it in volumetric flask 50ml (its
become 10-1 dilution)
c. Prepare sterile buffer 1-800 and sterile warm PCA (Plate Count Agar)
media (40 o C).
d. To make buffer 1-800, weigh 34 grams of KH 2PO 4, add 12 ml of
NaOH 1N, then dilute until 1 Liter
e. Pipette 9 ml of buffer, and then put it to test tube with label 10 -2 and
10 -3 dilution aseptically.
f. Pipette 1 ml of 10 -1 dilution (in volumetric flask), and put it to 10 -2
dilution test tube, homogenize it.
g. Pipette 1 ml of solution in 10 -2 dilution test tube, put it into 10 -3 dilution
test tube, and homogenize it.
h. Pipette 1 ml of solution from each dilution, and then put it into the
petri dish. Give the appropriate label to each petri dish. Do it twice
(duplet)
i. Pipette 1 ml of physiological solution to Petri dish as blank
j. Put the PCA media to all of petri dish aseptically, wait until solid, give
a current label
k. Incubate all of the Petri dish for 24 hour with temperature 37 oC
l. Count it by colony counter
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A. Staphylococcus aureus Test Using Pour Plate Method
1. Principle:
To test, whether the sample contains Staphylococcus aureus
bacteria or not, we can use pour plate method. It can be done by pour the
sample to Petri dish, then mix it with Manitol Salt Agar Media (MSA), and
incubated for 24 hours with temperature 37 oC
1. Apparatus
a. Triple beam balance
b. Erlenmeyer 100 mlc. Measuring cylinder 50ml
d. Methylated spirit burner
e. Autoclave
f. Petri dish
g. Serological pipette 10 ml
h. Serological pipette 1 ml
i. Bulb
j. Water bathk. Incubator
1. Materials
a. Sample
b. Physiological Solution 0,85 %
c. MSA medium
d. Alcohol 70%
e. Spiritus
1. Procedure:
a. Prepare all of equipment and material we need. All of it must be
sterile.
b. Pipette 1 ml of sample, put it into Petri dish aseptically.
c. Pour warm sterile MSA media to Petri dish, homogenize it.
d. Wait until the media become solid, put it in incubator
e. Incubate it for 24 hours with temperature 37 oC
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f. if there is growth of yellow colony with yellow zone, it means the
sample positive contain Staphylococcus aureus
A. Pseudomonas aeruginosa Test Using Pour Plate method
1. Principe:
To test, whether the sample contains Pseudomonas aeruginosa
bacteria or not, we can use pour plate method. It can be done by pour the
sample to Petri dish, then mix it with Pseudomonas Agar Media (PA), and
incubated for 24 hours with temperature 37 oC
1. Apparatus
a. Triple beam balance
b. Erlenmeyer 100 ml
c. Measuring cylinder 50ml
d. Autoclave
e. Petri dish
f. Serological pipette 10 ml
g. Serological pipette 1 ml
h. Bulb
i. Methylated spirit burner
j. Water bath
k. Incubator
1. Materials
a. Sample
b. Physiological Solution 0,85 %
c. PAP mediumd. Alcohol 70%
e. Spiritus
1. Procedure:
a. Prepare all of equipment and material we need. All of it must have
been sterilized.
b. Pipette 1 ml of sample, put it into Petri dish aseptically.
c. Pour warm sterile PA media to Petri dish, homogenize it.
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d. Wait until the media become solid, put it in incubator
e. Incubate it for 24 hours with temperature 37oC
f. if there is growth of yellowish colorless colony, it means the sample
positive contain Pseudomonas aeruginosa
A. Candida albicans Test Using Pour Plate Method
1. Principe:
To test, whether the sample contains Candida albicans or not, we
can use pour plate method. It can be done by pour the sample to Petri
dish, then mix it with Sabouraud Dextrose Agar (SDA), and incubated for
24 hours with temperature 37 oC. Colony of Candida albicans grown on
routine primary media (e.g., FSA, SDA) reveals round to oval budding
yeast-like cells or blastoconidia, measuring 3.5-7 by 4-8 m 2.
1. Apparatus
a. Triple beam balance
b. Erlenmeyer 100 ml
c. Measuring cylinder 50ml
d. Autoclavee. Petri dish
f. Serological pipette 10 ml
g. Serological pipette 1 ml
h. Bulb
i. Methylated spirit burner
j. Water bath
k. Incubator
1. Materials
a. Sample
b. Physiological Solution 0,85 %
c. SDA medium
d. Alcohol 70%
e. Spiritus
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1. Procedure:
a. Prepare all of equipment and material we need. All of it must have
been sterilized.
b. Pipette 1 ml of sample, put it into Petri dish aseptically.
c. Pour warm sterile SDA media to Petri dish, homogenize it.
d. Wait until the media become solid, put it in incubator
e. Incubate it for 24 hours with temperature 37 oC
f. if there is growth of round to oval budding yeast colony, it means the
sample positive contain Candida albicans
A. Qualitative Test of Rhodamine B Using TLC
1. Principe:
Rhodamine B can be determined by TLC method. Sample is
dissolved by solvent mixture, extracte by hexane, and then spotted on the
plate, the separation is conducted by eluen ( n-
butanol:ethanol:water:acetic acid with ratio 60:10:20:0,5). To know
whether the sample is contained Rhodamine B or not, sample and
standard is compared.
1. Apparatus
a. Beaker glass 400ml
b. Beaker glass 100ml
c. Test tube
d. Balance
e. Tripod stand
f. Wire gauze
g. Teklu burner h. Thin Layer plates 20cm x 20 cm
i. TLC tanks
j. Micropipette 1-5 l
k. Waterbath
l. Syringe
m. Measuring cylinder 50 ml
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1. Materials
a. Sample
b. N,N-dimethylformamide
c. Phosporic acid 85%
d. Hexane
e. Rhodamine B Standard
f. Methanol
g. 1-butanol
h. ethanol
i. Aquadest
j. Acetic Acid Glacial
1. Procedure:
a. Prepare all of equipment and material needed.
b. Mix about 0,1g-0,3g of sample with 2ml of Solvent Mixture ( N,N-
dimethylformamide and phosphoric acid 85% in the ratio 95:5 v/v)
c. If necessary heat at 90 oC until the sample dissolves
d. For oily cosmetics sample, extract with 2x5 ml n-hexane
e. Combine the hexane extract
f. Discard the hexane layer
g. Prepare the reference colorant solution of CI 45170 (Rhodamine B) in
methanol at a concentration 0,2mg/ml
h. Spot the sample and reference in the same volume at equal distance
on the start line of TLC plate. The stationary phase is silica gel.
i. Use the solvent of n-butanol:ethanol:water:acetic acid (60:10:20:0,5).
Develop the TLC plate at ambient temperature until the solvent front
has migrate 15 cm from the start
j. Remove the TLC plate, dry at room temperature
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PART IV
RESULT AND DISCUSSION
We analyzed foundation cream we can found in market. We analyzed itbased on SNI 16-6064-1999.
Table 2 Standard and Result of Analysis
No Explanation Units Standard Result1 Description
-
-Homogeneous-Free unidentifiedparticle
-Homogeneous-free fromunidentifiedparticle
2 Coloring agent % Based on PerMenKesRINo.445/MenKes/Per/
V/1999a. D&C Orange No. 17 CI
12075 (Pigment Orange 5)Negative Not conducted
b. D&C Red No. 19 CI 45170(Rhodamine B)
Negative Negative
c. C.I 45170:1 (Solvent Red) Negative Not conductedd. D&C Red No. 8 C.I 15585
(Pigment Red 53 )Negative Not conducted
e. D&C Red No. 9 C.I 15585:1(Pigment Red 53 : 1)
Negative Not conducted
3 Preservatives agent(Propylparaben)
% 0.4 17.97
4 Microbe Contaminationa. Total Plate Count colony/g Maximum 10 5 0b. Staphylococcus aureus colony/g Negative Negativec. Pseudomonas aeruginosa colony/g Negative Negatived. Candida albicans colony/g Negative Negative
Based on the table above, there is one parameter didnt meet the
requirement, that is preservative test. The maximum amount of propylparaben in
foundation cream is 0,4% but this product contains 17,97% of propylparaben.
The possibilities are: the sample contains too much preservative, or there is
another compound which co-determined with the analyte, such as other esters
like isopropyl miristate, beeswax, etc.
We can assume why all of bacteria and fungi tested in this product is
negative, because of the presence of excessive preservatives in this product,
microbe cant stand with this condition. In fact, this product isnt sealed neatly, so
it is very possible if there is microbial contamination.
The present of excessive paraben can be danger for our health. Colby
College's Clean Makeup website reports that parabens can mimic estrogen and
disrupt the body's hormone system. Cornell University reports that a high lifelong
exposure to estrogen can increase breast cancer risk. Estrogen, and synthetic
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chemicals that act like estrogen, play a role in stimulating the division of breast
cells and affect other hormones that stimulate breast cell division. Your body
does not easily break down synthetic estrogen, and it can accumulate in fat cells,
including breast tissue. In 2004, a study by the University in the United Kingdomfound concentrations of parabens in human breast tumors. The study examined
only the presence of parabens in the tumors but did not determine that they were
the cause of the tumors.
The dermatology test didnt conduct in organoleptic test because there is
no panelist that willing to do that test, so we just do the homogenity and free from
unidentified particle test.
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PART V
CONCLUSION AND SUGGESTION
A. Conclusion
Based on the analysis and compared with SNI 16-6064-1999 about
foundation cream, the conclusion is this foundation cream doesnt meet the
standard and improper to be used because the content of preservative is
more than permitted.
B. Suggestion1. Consumer should be more wise in selecting the safe cosmetic products,
dont be tricked with the cheap product, better to choose the expensive
product with result that have been approved beside the cheaper one
with bad effects.
2. Producer should be more concern to the consumer, dont produce
product that can harm consumer, and they have to register their product
to the authorized institution.
3. Goverment should improve the monitoring of cosmetics quality on the
market.
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REFERENCES
Alexander Writing. 2008. Dangers of Isopropyl Myristate. Bogor:
http://www.ehow.com/list_6011650_dangers-isopropyl-myristate.html,
June 2011 02.43 p.m.
Anonymous. 2007. Foundation Types. Bogor:
http://www.beauty.iloveindia.com/makeup/foundation-types.html, June
2011 03.12 p.m.
Anonymous. 2007. Propyl Paraben. Bogor:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/file:propylparaben.svg, June 2011 07.38 p.m.
Anonymous. 2008. Candida albicans . Bogor:
http://www.cmpt.ca/pdf_mycology_2008/my_basic_0804_1_ca_skin.pdf,June 2011 03.30 p.m.
Anonymous. 2011. Paraben Dalam Produk Perawatan Kulit. Bogor:
http://www.ylki.or.id/paraben-dalam-produk-perawatan-kulit.html, June
2011 03.20 p.m.
Anonymous. 2011. Squalane. Bogor: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/squalane, June
2011 08.14 a.m.
Anonymous. 2011. Titanium Dioxide. Bogor:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/titanium_dioxide, June 2011 01.45 p.m.
ASEAN. 2005. Identification of Prohibited Colorants In Cosmetic Products By
TLC And HPLC. Bogor: http://www.asean.org/MRA-Cosmetic/Doc-
2.pdf, June 2011 08.47 a.m.
BSN.1990. Kodeks Kosmetika Indonesia volume I. Jakarta: BSN
BSN.1990. Kodeks Kosmetika Indonesia volume II. Jakarta: BSN
BSN.1999. SNI Sediaan Alas Bedak No 16-6064-1999. Jakarta: BSN
Don Amerman. 2006. What Are The Dangers of Propyl Paraben. Bogor:
http://www.ehow.com/about_5616676_dangers-propylparaben_.html,
June 2011 11.54 a.m.
FKGUI. 2008. Efek Anti Jamur Metodologi. Bogor: http://lontar.ui.ac.id/file?
file=digital/125295-R20-OB-442%20Efek%20antijamur-Metodologi.pdf,
June 2011 04.37 p.m.
26
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Jennifer Rose. 2009. Squalane to Treat Acne. Bogor:
http://www.ehow.com/about_6641868_squalane-treat-acne.html, June
2011 12.35 p.m.
Kathleen Gasior. 2008. Benefits of Squalane. Bogor:
http://www.ehow.com/about_5101244_benefits-squalane.html, June
2011 09.53 a.m.
Kathreen Hatter. 2004. Uses of Beeswax. Bogor:
http://www.ehow.com/way_5336901_uses-
beeswax.html#ixzz1t1nwbuyx, June 2011 04.15 p.m.
Lily Mae. 2006. What are The Benefits of Lanolin?. Bogor:
http://www.ehow.com/list_6108901_benefits-lanolin_.html, June 201111.35 a.m.
Samantha Armer. 2007. Is Squalane Safe for Acne Skin. Bogor:
http://www.ehow.com/facts_6045381_squalene-safe-acne-skin_.html,
June 2011 12.47 p.m.
Vicki L. Van Arsdaleh. 2010. Define Paraben. Bogor:
http://www.livestrong.com/article/104560-define-paraben/, June 2011
01.34 p.m.
YLKI. 2011. Paraben Dalam Produk Perawatan Kulit. Bogor:
http://www.ylki.or.id/paraben-dalam-produk-perawatan-kulit.html, June
2011 02.15 p.m.
27
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ATTACHMENT
A. Analysis Data
Table 3PropylparabenAnalysis Data
Table 4 Total Plate Count Analysis Data
Table 5 Pathogen Bacteria Qualitative Test
Bakteri Media Hasil
Staphylococcus aureus MSA NegativePseudomonas aeruginosa CA Negative
Table 6 Pathogen Fungi Qualitative Test
Jamur Media HasilCandida albicans SDA Negative
Table 7 Thin Layer Chromatography
Eluen Standard Sample
6.8 cm 4.2 cm (Pink) 4.9 cm (Orange)
28
Weight Titran Volume
Simplo 0.0806 g 44.40 ml
Duplo 0.0826 g 45.00 ml
Blank 27.00 ml
N Na 2S 2O 3 sample : 0.0725 N
N Na 2S 2O 3 blank : 0.1381 N
Perlakuan Pengenceran Blanko10 -1 10 -2 10 -3
Simplo 0 0 00Duplo 0 0 0
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B. Calculation
1. Preservative Calculation
%100samplemg
007.6 1.0
).().5.0 benPropylpara%
= N sample N V blank N V
%99.18%10080.6
007.6 1.0
)0725.04.44()1381.0275.0
benPropylpara% =
=
%95.16%10082.6
007.6 1.0
)0725.00.45()1381.0275.0
benPropylpara% =
=
%97.172
16.95%18.99%aben%Propylpar =+=
2. TLC Calculation
62.08.62.4
standardRf ===eluen
component
72.08.69.4
sampleRf ===eluen
component