History and Development of Textile Fabric Industry

8/14/2019 History and Development of Textile Fabric Industry

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FABRICS


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History and Developmentof Textile Fabric Industry

First mechanized spinning process developed in

England in the 18th century. Fibers could now be

twisted into yarn at a rapid pace.

First U.S. yarn mill was built in Pawtucket, RhodeIsland, 1790.

Because of higher demand, yarn mills needed

faster weaving, hence the first power loom in

America in 1814.

The industry grew rapidly, with demand for goods

far exceeding supply.

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INTRODUCTION

The termfabric is derivedfromthe latinterm fabrica

meaninga workshop. Fabric therefore refers toany

material made throughweaving, knittingor bonding.

It canthus be classifiedonthe methods of

manufacturingas :

WovenKnitted

Non-woven


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WOVEN CATEGORY

Woven fabric is created by the interlacing of the warp fibres and weft fibresi n

a regular pattern or a weave style. The integrity of the fabric is maintained

by the interlocking of the fibres.

The common weaves of a woven fabric are:

PLAIN: the warp and the weft are so aligned that they form a criss cross

pattern. TWILL: the crossing of the weft and the warp yarns areare offset to give a

diagonal pattern.

SATIN: It is basically the twill weave which is modified to produce fewer

intersections of warp and weft.

BASKET: Two warp fibers alternately interlace with two or more weft fibers.

Examples: cotton , silk etc.

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NON WOVEN CATEGORY

It is a sheet or a web structure, produced byinterlocking layers or networks of fibres or

filaments usually by a chemical bonding.

Examples: tissue paper etc

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KNITTED CATEGORY

It completely consists of horizontal parallel courses of a yarn. These

courses are joined to each other by inter locking loops, where a short

loop of one course of the yarn is wrappedo over another course.Knitted

fabric is obtained either by a hand knitted process or by a machine.

There are two types of knitted fabrics:

WEFT KNITTED-it is either done by hand or

machine by looping together the lengths of a yarn.

WARP KNITTED-it is made by machine only . the loops in this kind offabrics interlock vertically along the length of the fabric.

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Cotton /man-made fabric textile

Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu & Gujarat

Silk -Mysore-(75%)

Assam(Sualkuchi is famous)

Banaras,Murshidabad,Kanchipuram,surat

Wollen-Punjab(40%)

Haryana(27%)Rajasthan(10%)

U.P,Maharashtra,Gujarat(23%)

Jute-West Bengal-61jute mills

Andhra Pradesh-7

U.P and Bihar -3 each

Assam,Orissa,Tripura,M.P- 1 mill each

Centres of production


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Cotton Silk Wool Jute

China China Australia India

USA Thailand China Bangladesh

India USA Mangolia China

Centers of production world wide


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Under government scheme- 16%

Co-orperatives - 10% Privately owned - 74%

Ownership in organized

fabric manufacturing sector


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Commercial handlooms- Mainly in T.N, A.P and U.P.

Production in the handloom sector recorded a figure of

6947 million sq. meters in the year 2007-08.During

2008-09, production in the handloom sector is reported

to be 6,677 million sq. meters.

Power looms- Contributes about 70% of the total cloth

production of the country and provides employment to

about 54.00 lakh people. This sector as whole produce

40%of nations output of cotton and 45% of blended

cotton.

Maharashtra, T.N and Gujarat have approx 77% ofpowerloom centres.

Co-operative owned sectors


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House hold enterprises-Mainly

concentrated in T.N, Maharashtra,

Gujarat, U.P and Karnataka.

Looms are operated with the assistance

of family members and fabric is sold in

local markets.

Privately owned sectors


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Key players in India

Withturnover of USD279millions, Specialisinginworstedfabric, wool andblendedfabric, stretchdenim

fabric, cottonandlinenshirtingfabric, readymadegarments, woolenblankets andhomefurnishings

Annual turnover of USD231million, produces suitings, shirtings, sarees, towels, bedlinenandmens

apparel. Significant exporter of polycottonblendedfabrics andmadeups

Annual turnover of USD338million, exports tomorethan70countries.Produces denimfabric, cotton

andblendedfabric, knittedfabric, voiles, apparel

Turnover of USD400million&Significant presenceinacrylicfibre, cotton, syntheticandblendedspun

yarns, greyandprocessedfabrics, cottonandsyntheticsewingthreads

Indias largest exporter of readymadegarments, havingturnover of USD180million

Supplies tomorethan100retailers andfashionbrands across 39countries

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Leadingproducer of silkyarns andfabric(mainlyfor decorativeandbridal use), withannual turnover of

USD32million, alsointhebusiness of homefurnishings.

Key players in India

Amongst thetop3terrytowel producers intheworld, withannual turnover of USD132million,

production includes cottonyarns, polyester filament yarn, bathrobes, buttons andsawpipes.

Belongs tooneof themost diversifiedbusiness groups inIndia(AdityaBirlaGroup) andhas turnover of

USD577million, specialisingintextiles whichincludeviscosefilament yarnandbrandedapparel; other

interests includeinsurance, telecom, IT, carbonblack

Havingturnover of USD303million, companyis amajor producer of polyester yarns,

fabrics, garments andtextiles

Has thelargest compositetextilemill inIndiafor producingcottonfabric

Havingaturnover of USD95million, its products includeviscosefilament yarn, viscose10/03/09

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International Players

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There are several other industry specific advantages

arising out of the unique nature of the industry in India

Indiahas arichrawmaterial base, especiallycottonwhichhas seenimprovedproductivityinthecountryunder theCotton

TechnologyMission

Widevarietyof cottonproducedIndia, makingIndiacapableof cateringtovarious segments of worldtrade

Indianindustryhas abilitytohandledifferent materials - cotton, wool, silkandjutewithequal skill

Positivedevelopments intheTextilePolicy

Govt incentiveschemes oncottonexports likeDEPB.

Fiscal anomalies interms of excisedutystructureremoved

Flexibilityinproduction

Capabilities across theentirevaluechainwithinthecountryreduces leadtimefor productionandreduces intermediateshipping

time

Indiancompanies haveflexibilityandskilledmanpower tohandlesmall orders withcomplexdesigns

Product development anddesigncapabilities

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India has a cost advantage vis--vis

competing countries

2.35

0.70

0.06

2.51

0.65

0.04

2.31

0.60

0.07

2.17

0.61

0.06

Cost competitiveness

Yarn: USDperkgof yarn

Fabric: USDperyardof fabric

1.68

0.55

0.18

1.40

0.51

0.14

0.55

0.20

2.06

0.59

0.21

1.90

Open-endedyarn&fabric Ringyarn&fabric Texturedyarn&fabric

Yarn

Wovenfabric

Knittedfabric

2.68

0.75

1.22

2.76

0.69

1.21

2.61

0.65

1.21

2.45

0.66

1.12

SouthKorea

China

Brazil

India

India is cost competitive vis--vis competing countries in textile

production, except in case of textured yarn and fabric

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Many foreign players have

also entered India

Top10buyersinIndia(Gap, Wal-Mart, Li &Fung, TheChildrensPlace, JCPenny, H&M, Federated, FifthAvenue, Carrefour and

SynergiesIndia) account for 35%of total textilessourcedfromIndia

Other major companiesincludeEl Corte, Ecko, Kellwood, VFCorporation, Tesco, Next, Karstadt-Quelle

Buyingandliaisonoffices

Brandlicensing- HugoBoss, TommyHilfiger, Mango, Lovable, Nike, Lacoste

Master franchisee- Marks&Spencer, Crocodile

Brandlicensing/ franchising

Manufacturing/ manufacturing

cumretailing

VFArvindBrands- joint venturebetweenArvindBrandsandVFCorporationtomanufactureandsell lattersbrandsinIndia

Benetton

Levi Strauss

Reebok

CarremanMichel Thierry


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Trends in fabric production

Itemsunits 1999-

20002000-

012001-

022002-

032003-04 2004-05

Cotton Million

sq.mtr.

18989 19718 19769 19300 18040 20488

Blended Million

sq.mtr.

5913 6351 6287 5876 6068 6000

100%Non-cotton

(including

Khadi, Wool &

Silk)

Million

sq.mtr.

14306 14164 15978 16797 18275 18200


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Global Dimensions

Post-quota period, a major sourcing destination for new buyers.

India's position in the global trade in textiles and clothing

India's percentage share in global textiles and clothing trade

was 4% in textiles, and 2.8% in clothing during the year 2007.

India's rank in world trade has been 7th in textiles and 6th in

clothing.

USA and the EU, account for about 2/3 of textiles exports.

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Current export scene

Exports cotton yarn and fabrics, man-made yarn and fabrics,

wool and silk fabrics exported to more than a hundred

countries.

Cotton fabrics -constitute more than 2/3rd of our exports of all

fabrics increase of 23.14% in 2007-08.. decline of 11.39%

April December 2008

Man-made fabrics: recorded an increase of 12.07% in 2006-

07 over the exports during the previous year.

Silk fabricrecorded a a decline of 6.88% in 2007-08 over the

exports during the previous year.


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Impact of global recession

Economic slow down in international markets

Liquidity crunch

Appreciation of Indian rupee vis--vis the US dollar in 2007-08 landed

the fabric exports in a difficult situation

Increased cost of production due to increasing raw material costs ,power

and other input costs which affected the profitability of textiles in India

and their exports Indias share in global textiles and clothing exports in 2007declined to

4% and 2.8%, respectively from 4.3% and 3.3% in 2006

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Government introduced two packages of duty concessions,

tax and interest rebates in December, 2008 and January, 2009 toprovide stimulus to the economy in general to combat the recession.

10/03/09

Documents

History and Development of Textile Fabric Industry