Historia Normannis High Constable Wargear & Combat …Helms & Arming Caps • Nasal and ‘Cap’ Helms ... T5- Squire The term Squire is either used to mean a ‘knight in waiting’

Historia Normannis

High Constable Wargear &

Combat Regulations v.2.2

(Bellatores)

Historia Normannis - High Constable Bellatores Regulations

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Contents • Constabulary Structure

• Normannis Military Ranks o Feudal Troops

o Professional Troops

o Feudal Retainers

o Magnates

• Wargear By Rank

Archery Ranks

o Archery Wargear

o Bowman (NCA)

o Levy Archer (A)

o Garrison Archer (A)

o Mercenary Archer (A)

o Crossbow Serjeant (A)

o Captain (A)

Infantry Ranks

o Infantry Wargear

o Levy

o Militia

o Servien

o Serjeant

o Squire

o Knight

o Baron

• Wargear Definitions and Regulations

o Wargear Standards & Maintenance

o Marking Equipment

o Bladed Weapons

▪ Sword

▪ Dagger

▪ Proto-Falchions

▪ Long Knives

▪ Fauchard/War-brand

o Hand Axes, Clubs and Maces

▪ Hand Axes

▪ Warclubs

▪ Maces

o Polearms

▪ Long-axe

▪ Bill/Glaive

▪ Spears

o Bows & Crossbows

▪ Arrows & Bolts


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o Shields

▪ Soldier’s Kite Shield

▪ Transitional Kite Shield

▪ Knight’s Kite Shield

▪ Late Kite Shield

▪ Heater

o Armour

▪ Gambesons

▪ Maille Shirts

▪ Gloves

▪ Leg Armour

• Fabric

• Maille (Chausses)

▪ Helms & Arming Caps

• Nasal and ‘Cap’ Helms

• Faceplate Helms


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Introduction The document has had the section regarding open helms and “full armour” clarified, as well

as small clarifications around decoration on wargear (axes, helmets).

-Daniel FitzEdward

Head of Historia Normannis, High Constable 2018-19

Legal Information All information and graphics contained within is the original work of Daniel FitzEdward, or

other members of the media team, unless specifically stated otherwise. All information is

thereby property of Historia Normannis, and may be reproduced in part or in entirety by its

members for the purposes of informing, educating or referencing within the society or

liaising with event organisers.

The information within is not to be reproduced in part or in entirety for the benefit of those

outside the organisation without the express permission of Historia Normannis.


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The Three Estates

Laboratores (Those who work) - Non-combative members who are not part of the Ecclesiastic structure

fall into this section, as well as combat members when not participating in military

displays/activities. See the Laboratores & Encampment Regulations for more information

about this estate.

Oratores (Those who pray) - Members who are part of the Ecclesiastical and Monastic displays within

the society. See the Ecclesiastical & Holy Orders regulations for further details on this estate.

Bellatores (Those who fight) - Members who are part of the military displays and combat within the

society. This is what this document covers specifically.


6

Constabulary Structure At each level of the society there is a person responsible for melee and ranged combat-

structured as follows;


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Bellatores Contact Details

High Constable Daniel FitzEdward - ([email protected])

Marshals Paul Blakey- England- ([email protected])

Jim Fanning (Acting)- Wales- ([email protected])

Daniel FitzEdward (Acting)- Scotland- ([email protected])

Constables By Region

England

Westmorland- Sarah “Pinky” Porthouse ([email protected])

Lancashire – Michael Nicholls ([email protected])

Yorkshire – Joseph Clark ([email protected])

West Mercia – (Acting) Gareth Davies ([email protected])

North Mercia- Alex Smith ([email protected])

South Mercia- Dominic Abbott ([email protected])

Sussex – James Hutchinson ([email protected])

Wessex- Gary Colling ([email protected])

Scotland

Lalians- Luke Dawson- ([email protected])

Wales

Glamorgan- Gareth Davies ([email protected])

Master Herald Philip Roebuck - ([email protected])

mailto:[email protected]
















8

Normannis Military Ranks


9

The military ranks of Normannis are divided into four distinct groups;

Feudal Troops Feudal troops are those men owing military service for forty days a year in return for

their tenancy. These men were most often used as castle garrison forces and

watchmen- but were in larger campaigns expected to make up the bulk of the light

infantry. During peace-time these men would work as tradesmen or farmers.

Mercenaries Mercenaries were men who were paid for their service- professional soldiers. Despite

the modern connotations of a lack of loyalty or reliability, these men usually formed

the reliable, professional core of the infantry and light cavalry. These men would

fight for a living and have no other occupation.

Feudal Retainers Feudal retainers were obliged to perform military service for Lords or Barons in

return for their status as land-lords. These men were consummate professionals of

the ‘warrior’ elite- and warfare was as much a lifestyle as a duty.

Magnates Extensive lands and high social status allowed these men to raise and maintain

armies of retainers - answerable to either a greater magnate (such as an Earl) or to

the King directly, these men governed in peace as much as they led armies in war.

These members are considered to ‘cross estates’ as they would be senior nobility as

well as military leaders.


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Feudal Troops

Archers

T1- Bowman (NCA)

Non-combat archers who represent those men who, living in outlying rural areas,

could not fully furnish themselves for melee combat and instead went to war with

their hunting bows.

T1- Levy Archer (A)

Those men who owed forty days military service but rarely served it- and when they

did, they utilised their bows as well as melee weapons when on campaign. Frequently

these men would be hunters or woodsmen by trade, and combined with some

irregular local training fulfilled the most basic archery role.

T2- Garrison Archer (A)

Those members of the feudal society who could furnish themselves with basic

armour but utilised bow weapons- usually for performing garrison duty in their local

castle. These men were regularly trained and could be expected to perform as

effective support groups.

Infantry

T1- Levy

Those men who owed forty days military service a year but rarely served it out, living

in rural outlying areas and being poorly equipped and not formally trained. They

could at least furnish themselves with spears and shields.

T2- Militia

Representing members of the feudal society who were regularly trained for their

military service, usually raised from cities or large towns during a time of war.

Usually basically trained and equipped, militia troops were treated as more reliable

than other feudal levies.


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Mercenaries

Archers

T3- Mercenary Archer (A)

Men who performed year-round service in castles and strongholds as professional

archers. These men were relatively well-equipped professionals who drew pay for

their services and trained regularly.

T4- Crossbow Serjeant (A)

One of the most valued weapons of the period was the crossbow- when deployed en

masse it could devastate enemy infantry blocks and effectively turn back cavalry

charges.

Armoured crossbowmen hired from Flanders were considered ‘Serjeants’- highly

trained in the use of hand-weapons as well as their crossbow.

T5- Captain (A)

The most senior archer in charge of mercenary bands of bowmen and crossbowmen-

usually contracted his band to the service of magnates for the duration of campaigns

or in perpetual service.

Infantry

T3- Servien

Serviens were regularly paid and equipped soldiers, sometimes viewed as mercenary

troops as they gave service in return for regular pay, rather than in return for land.

These men were usually equipped by a feudal lord of some variety; usually a knight

whose retinue they served in. Serviens mark the graduation from levied to

professional troops.

T4- Serjeant

A Serjeant was a veteran professional soldier with equipment that could rival that of

a knight, but of significantly lower social rank. These men represent the reliable

‘hard core’ of the retinues of lords and barons.

Serjeants were also sometimes independent mercenaries who could provide

themselves with high-quality wargear and a high level of experience; most of the

high-quality infantry hired across from Flanders were considered 'serjeants'.


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Feudal Retainers

T5- Squire

The term Squire is either used to mean a ‘knight in waiting’ - essentially a man who is

receiving military training from a Knight, or a man of some social standing locally

who takes some responsibility for raising and marshalling the men but has no claim

to the nobility. In either case they are equipped in a similar manner to the poorest

knights, and may even have served from horseback as supporting cavalry.

T6/7- Knight

The term knight was divided into two major groups; landed and household knights.

Whereas both were members of the nobility, household knights were men who

served directly under another, higher-ranking noble, and were paid to serve in their

household. Landed knights, on the other hand, had been granted land by a noble in

return for their services, and were expected to maintain themselves and a

considerable military force from the proceeds of that land.

Landed knights were also considered to be of higher social status than their

household counterparts. In Normannis, those senior knights in charge of extensive

lands are referred to as Lords.

Magnates

T8- Baron

Barons were senior member of the nobility, and were answerable directly to either a

higher-ranking member of the nobility or the King himself. Barons may have a

retinue of knights serving under them in their household, and may also be

responsible for a large group of landed knights.

T9- Earl

Earls were the regional governors of medieval England, the most senior Barons, and

responsible for whole swathes of land and estates. They were responsible for barons

and lords of their own, and acted as centres of authority within their own lands. Due

to the lack of distinction in equipment Earls refer to the ‘Baron’ section of the

regulations which in practise refers to Magnates as a class.


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Wargear by Rank


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The information contained in this section explains what kit is available for each rank,

as well as stating the ‘required minimum’ kit impression- that is, the kit a member

must have to be considered as portraying that given rank.

Unlike previous seasons, the ‘Unacceptable’ column has been removed from each

rank; any equipment not listed explicitly is assumed to be ‘unacceptable’. The

definitions for each item of wargear are found in the Wargear Definitions and

Regulations section.

Archers

Bowman (NCA)

Levy Archer

Garrison Archer

Mercenary Archer

Crossbow Serjeant

Captain

Infantry

Levy

Militia

Servien

Serjeant

Squire

Knight

Baron


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Archer Ranks


16

Archers’ Wargear

Archery Ranks

In period, archers were typically more lightly equipped than dedicated infantry-

hence their separate wargear impressions within the regulations. Archers typically

fought supported by infantry, from behind screens of heavier troops, and as such

were not expected to play as much of a role in hand-to-hand combat. Obviously,

archers that made up professional garrisons or mercenary companies would acquire

as much body armour and melee equipment as was practical for their role, to allow

them to defend themselves when attacked by bodies of enemy troops.

Due to the encumbrance of shooting bows in wargear, typically troops wearing

maille and long-sleeved padding would prefer crossbows- and in turn crossbowmen

were capable of wearing heavier body armour. This is reflected in the increasing

emphasis on the crossbow in the higher ranks listed below.

Wargear on the Field

Archers are not required to carry a shield on the field (unlike other troops)- as they

are not expected to receive incoming archery.

If archers want to primarily fight with a short-arm, they should acquire a shield

which the put on after the shooting phase of combat- however, archers are typically

best served by training and utilising a polearm, given the speed and ease with which

a ‘weapon change’ can occur.

Combat gloves are now allowable as ideal throughout the ranks below to allow for

greater dexterity when shooting; ideally these should be as unobtrusive as possible as

the period practise would have been to shoot and then fight barehanded.

When listed “as secondary” the weapon should clearly be subordinate to another-

such as a dagger carried alongside a sword, axe or mace (rather than being carried as

the sole close-quarters weapon).

Wargear Safety

Whilst safe maintenance of wargear is important across all aspects of re-enactment

combat, this is far more critical in terms of re-enactment archery. Arrows and bolts

regularly degrade, and as such can become dangerous over time- and need to be

regularly checked. Bows and crossbows have carefully limited poundages (see those

sections of the regulations, below) which should be very closely observed; when

purchasing a bow or crossbow seek assurances from the seller and then, ideally, have

the bow tested in turn to confirm it meets society standards.


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Bowman Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable

Head None Hood Arming Cap

Body None None None

Legs None None Winningas

Additional Gear Arrows/Bolts (6) Waist belt

Arrows/Bolts (12) Hip-quiver/Bolt box

Combat gloves

Weapon Bow/Crossbow Selfbow Warbow/Crossbow Long Knife

Shield None None None

Rank at a Glance

Bowmen are non-combat archers, and as such do not participate in the melee aspect

of combat displays, therefore it is generally not

advisable that they carry and perceivable hand-

weapons other than, perhaps, a long-knife slung

from the belt. This is also the de-facto rank for

any members aged 14-16 who take part in the

archery phase of combat.

Despite being an item of clothing, the

hood is listed as ideal, as it neatly

completes the kit impression as well as

helping conceal female members

shooting; for a description of the

item refer to the clothing

regulations.

Please note as the rank is a non-combative

one, it is the only rank listed that does not

require the member to wear some form of

hand protection.


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Levy Archer Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable

Head None Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm

Arming Cap (without body armour)

Body None None Light Gambeson


Additional Gear Arrows/Bolts (6) Waist belt

Combat gloves

Arrows/Bolts (12) Hip-quiver/Bolt box

Combat gloves

Padded leather/woollen mufflers

Weapon Bow/Crossbow Polearm/Spear

Selfbow/Crossbow Bill/Spear

Warbow Long-knife/Warclub/Hand-

axe/Long-axe

Shield None Soldier’s Kite (with short-arm)

-

Rank at a Glance

Levy archers represent those men from rural settlements who answered

the call to arms primarily with their bow. These men would have some

very limited local training to nock, draw and loose in unison.

This is the ‘starter rank’ for combat archer members - some may

wish to remain as such due to the low kit requirements. In the

normal course of events once a member has attended a few

events they are usually eligible for progression to Garrison

Archer if they wish.

Ideally members should begin acquiring the light

gambeson, helm and arming cap for the rank towards the

end of their first season of shows, allowing for them to

progress to Garrison Archer.


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Garrison Archer

Rank at a Glance

Garrison archers are those men who fulfilled their military quarantine by

performing guard duty in castles and cities, furnishing themselves with crossbows or

bows. They would have opportunity to train and practise, and would have access to

some disposable income to allow for acquiring armour.

These members should represent the general line archer-

and for preference should fight with polearms and a back

slung shield - if members do fight with melee equipment

they must furnish themselves with a single-handed spear in

addition to a hand-weapon to meet the requirements of the Assize of

Arms.

Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable

Head Arming Cap (without body armour)

Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm

None

Body None Light Gambeson None


Additional Gear Combat gloves Hip-quiver/Bolt box

Arrows/Bolts (8)

Combat gloves Hip-quiver/Bolt box Arrows/Bolts (12)



Selfbow/Crossbow Bill/Spear

Warbow Long-knife/Warclub/Hand-

axe/Long-axe/Bill/ Fauchard

Shield Soldier’s Kite (if using a one-handed

weapon in melee)

Soldier’s Kite (if using a one-handed

weapon in melee)

-


20

Mercenary Archer


Head Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm Open Helm

Body Light Gambeson Full Gambeson Maille Corslet (over either gambeson)


Additional Gear Combat gloves Hip-quiver/Bolt box Arrows/Bolts (10)

Padded mufflers (with full gambeson)

Combat gloves



Crossbow Spear

Selfbow /Warbow Long-axe/Hand-axe/

Long-knife Proto-falchion/Glaive/

Fauchard


weapon in melee)

Soldier’s Kite -

Rank at a Glance Mercenary Archers represent the professional archers who hired

their services out as individuals or organised

companies. Many of these men would have

been Flemish immigrants, who sought employ

in the frequent Anglo-Norman border conflicts.

The preference is that wherever possible these members utilise crossbows rather

than bows, to represent the tendency for professional bands to utilise these

weapons.

Where required, due to the necessity of shooting the bow, Mercenary Archers

can wear combat gloves rather than mufflers to allow them to nock, draw and

loose.


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Crossbow Serjeant


Head Open Helm Nasal Helm -

Body Full Gambeson Maille Corslet (over full gambeson)

Maille Corslet (over light gambeson)



Padded Mufflers (with full gambeson)

Combat gloves Bolt box

Bolts (12+)


(with light gambeson)

Weapon Crossbow Polearm/Spear

Crossbow Spear, Long-axe, Glaive,

Long-knife (as secondary)

Sword, Mace (B), Hand-axe, Proto-falchion,

Fauchard


weapon in melee)

Soldier’s Kite Knight’s Kite Transitional Kite

Rank at a Glance Serjeants were seasoned, professional soldiers who served either as part of a Knight’s

retinue or in organised bands of mercenaries. In either capacity, they were paid for

their services and were, therefore, by medieval standards considered

‘mercenaries’.

Serjeants showed increasing professionalism and

specialisation across the 12th century-

evolving from simply better trained and

equipped infantry to well-drilled spearmen, organised

light cavalry, and critically, heavily armoured and well-

trained crossbowmen. In Normannis these men represent

veteran Mercenary Archers who have specialised in the

use of the crossbow, and have attained a degree of

personal wealth and equipment that allows them to also

serve as heavy infantry when they lay such a weapon

aside.


22

Captain (of Archers)


Head Open Helm Nasal Helm Expanded Nasal

Body Maille corslet with coif (over full gambeson)

Haubergion

Early Hauberk



Padded Mufflers Combat gloves

Hip-quiver/Bolt box Arrows/Bolts (18+)

-

Weapon Crossbow/Warbow Polearm/Spear

Crossbow Spear, Sword, Fauchard,

Glaive Long-knife (as secondary)

Warbow Hand-axe, Mace (B), Long-axe

Dagger (as secondary)

Shield Soldier’s Kite Knight’s Kite Transitional Kite

Rank at a Glance Captains would be experienced mercenary archers who would have risen to

dominance within a company of mercenaries or risen within a castle’s garrison to

command and marshal the archers.

For preference, these members should be giving as

professional and well-equipped impression as possible,

and are the only rank of archer permitted to wear

their shield slung on their back whilst shooting.

Preferably these members should use a crossbow

allowing them to wear padded mufflers - leather

combat gloves should only be worn if the member

requires to nock and loose a bow.


23

Infantry Ranks


24

Infantry Wargear

Infantry Ranks

Infantry in period made up the bulk of period forces. Within Normannis, necessity

means that the majority of what would have been cavalry in period also make up the

‘heavy infantry’ elements of the battlefield.

As within the society, the ‘ranks’ below reflect the degree of wargear and combat

experience within the 12th century world- but does not necessarily follow the lines of

social hierarchy in the period. Rich and influential merchants and business-owners

would have found themselves mustering as Militia, whilst their perceived social

inferiors, such as foreign mercenary Serjeants, who would, nevertheless, be

considered senior in terms of a combat role.

Wargear on the Field

Due to the period practise of mass-polearms, members are asked to at least muster

with lances, spears or a polearm of some variety. However, as soon as the two forces

are on the field and begin to move towards each other in the first phase of combat,

these can be discarded on the ground in preference for short-arms to allow members

to fight as they wish.

When listed “as secondary” the weapon should clearly be subordinate to another-

such as a dagger carried alongside a sword, axe or mace (rather than being carried as

the sole close-quarters weapon).

Wargear Safety

Infantry typically need to regularly check the hafts and heads on polearms, as well as

hafts and blades on short-arms. Shield rims require particular attention due to the

nails and tacks used to secure them; these can become loose or turn outwards to

produce obvious dangers. More information is given on page 35 below.


25

Levy


Head None Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm


Body None Light Gambeson None


Additional Gear Combat gloves Combat gloves Padded leather/woollen mufflers

Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Bill/Spear Warclub/Hand-axe

Long-knife Long-axe

Shield Soldier’s Kite Soldier’s Kite -

Rank at a Glance

Levy members represent those poorer freemen who

would answer a general summons to arms; some of

whom managed to reach the minimum

requirements laid down in the Assize of Arms,

and some of whom did not.

This is the ‘starter rank’ for most members -

some members may wish to remain as

such due to the low kit requirements. In

the normal course of events once a

member has attended a few events they

are usually eligible for progression to

Militia if they so wish.

Ideally members should seek to begin

acquiring the light gambeson, helm

and arming cap ideal for the rank

towards the end of their first season of shows, allowing for them to progress to

Militia.


26

Militia


Head Skullcap Helm

Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm


Body Light Gambeson Full Gambeson Maille corslet (over full/light gambeson)


Additional Gear Combat gloves Combat gloves or

Padded mufflers (with Full Gambeson)


Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Bill/Spear/ Long-axe Long-knife/

Warclub/Hand-axe

Proto-Falchion Fauchard


Rank at a Glance Militia as Normannis represents them would make up the

bulk of most ‘levied’ forces from the Freemen of the realm.

This is the ‘default’ military rank for members who take

part in the military displays of Normannis.

Please note that as of the 2014-2015 the equipment

listed allows for a range of kit impressions- allowing

for a more ‘professional and affluent’ militia

impression. Those members being put forward for

Serviens should seek to acquire the maille listed in the

‘Acceptable’ column.


27

Servien


Head Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm Open Helm

Body Maille Corslet (over light gambeson)

Maille Corslet (over full gambeson)

Haubergion (over full gambeson)


Additional Gear Combat gloves Padded mufflers (with full gambeson)

Combat gloves (with light gambeson)

Padded leather/woollen

mufflers (with light gambeson)

Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Spear/Long-axe/Glaive Mace (B)/Hand-axe/Proto-Falchion


Sword Fauchard


Rank at a Glance As professional mercenaries, Serviens should be, at their poorest,

almost indivisible from the richest Militia forces. Like their archer

counterparts, a large proportion of these troops would be

foreign in origin - mostly Flemish or continental French.

The kit impressions laid down are significantly more

professional than previously - as Serviens now

represent the range of the mercenary class previously

divided between Servien and the now defunct rank

Routier.


28

Serjeant



Body Haubergion (over full gambeson)

Early Hauberk (with ventail)

Early Hauberk (without ventail)

Legs None None Maille chausses, Winningas

Additional Gear Combat gloves Padded Mufflers -

Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Spear,/Long-axe/Glaive Sword/Mace/Fauchard


Hand-axe, Mace (B) Proto-Falchion

Dagger (as secondary)

Shield Soldier’s Kite Soldier’s Kite Knight’s Kite Transitional Kite

Rank at a Glance Serjeants were seasoned, professional soldiers who served

either as part of a Knight’s retinue or in organised

bands of mercenaries. In either capacity, they were

paid for their services and were, therefore, by

medieval standards considered ‘mercenaries’.

These men either served as heavy infantry, or

could form lighter units of support cavalry. At

their best equipped and trained, these men were

almost indistinguishable from poorer Knights -

and as such were banned from wearing gilded

spurs to ease identification. Members who attain the

rank of Serjeant are the experienced veterans of

Normannis - reflecting their real medieval status.

These members serve their units as ‘corporals’ -

experienced members who assist in mentoring

and marshalling the line in combat.


29

Squire



Body Early Hauberk Hauberk (with ventail)

Hauberk (without ventail)

Legs None None Maille chausses

Additional Gear Combat gloves Padded mufflers Maille mufflers on hauberk (cannot be worn with chausses) Court undertunic under armour

Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Sword

Spear/Glaive Sword/Mace


Hand-axe, Long-axe, Fauchard Dagger (as secondary)

Shield Soldier’s Kite Soldier’s Kite Transitional Kite Knight’s Kite

Rank at a Glance

The term Squire is either used to mean a

‘knight in waiting’- essentially a man who is

receiving military training from a Knight, or a man

of some social standing locally who takes some

responsibility for raising and marshalling the men but

has no claim to the nobility. Depending on the group

they serve in their position varies slightly - In a

Knight’s Fee, a Squire is the group’s deputy - a

senior member aiding the Knight. In a Manor,

the Squire role is a combatant who is helping in

the running of the group but has not been knighted by

the Lord. In Households/Familias, Squire is the title

given to a recruit until they are deemed to be ready

for knighthood.

For preference, these members should be giving as professional and well-equipped

impression as possible, as they represent either the wealthy non-noble administrators

of an estate or the most junior members of the noble classes.


30

Knight


Head Open Helm See Table Below See Table Below

Body Hauberk (any) over full gambeson

See Table Below See Table Below

Legs None See Table Below See Table Below

Additional Gear Combat gloves See Table Below See Table Below


Spear, Sword, Dagger, Mace

Hand-axe, Glaive, Long-axe, Long Knife (as secondary)

Fauchard

Shield See Table Below See Table Below See Table Below

Rank at a Glance See below

Knightly Kit Impressions

In Norman society, the term ‘knight’

covered a huge swathe of social and

economic sub-divisions.

Some knights were little more than full-

time soldiers, whereas others were

landholders in their own right, with many

feudal retainers of their own.

Some knights served in households and

held no direct knight’s fee- whereas others

held extensive estates.

Knights within Normannis represent the peak

of Anglo-Norman military technology and

investment. As such their wargear should be as well

turned out as possible- kept clean, repaired, and

well-tailored.


31

Knightly Wargear Impressions

Knights in period are divided distinctly into two groups- those that are significantly landed

themselves, or those that serve in the retinue of another (household or familia knights).

A knight’s social position dictated a variety of factors including whether he could afford the

minimal required equipment for the field, or the most up-to-date equipment of the period.

These impressions are very subtly different and represent the changing trends from the

middle of the 12th century until the beginning of the 13th- the main reasons for these

impressions being presented in this format is to avoid a very confusing single table.

The kit impressions below represent the ‘ideal’ for that position in 12th century society- but as

always in Normannis members can opt for a lower impression than the one listed (members

ideally directed to a ‘C’ impression can select a ‘B’ impression).

As of the 2018 season the method for selecting an impression has been significantly

simplified to this list. This is designed to maintain the period variety in equipment knights

would carry, whilst making it far simpler in format and use.

For hauberks in the table below, it is always ideal for knights’ hauberks to feature ventails-

for members portraying a Full-Maille (2) type impression, these are a requirement.

If an existing knight becomes attached to a group with a very small retinue that would not

normally support a second knight (such as a group of 8) they are asked to reduce their kit

impression as much as humanly possible (seeking an A type impression).

Household Knights-

In the household of ;

Senior Barons/Earls- C or D (Heads of Regions/Countries)

Deputy Barons/Earls- B or C (Regional or Country deputies)

Landed Knights/Lords

Leading a;

Knight’s Fee retinue (8 or less)- A

Small Manor retinue (8 to 12)- B

Large Manor retinue (12-20)- C

Garrison retinue (20+)- D

Other Group Knights

Knights within groups that support deputy knights should have a kit impression one ‘step’

below the head of the group’s impression (if theirs is D, yours should be C- if theirs is C,

yours should be B).


32

Non- Full Maille Impression ‘1’

Full Maille Impression ‘2’

‘A’ Early Hauberk/Hauberk with either

mufflers OR chausses

I- Nasal helm

A- Open/Expanded Nasal helm

Soldier or Knight’s Kite Shield,

Court undertunic under hauberk and

gambeson (optional)

N/A

‘B’ Hauberk with either mufflers OR chausses

I- Nasal helm

A- Open/Expanded Nasal/Faceplate helm

Soldier or Knight’s kite shield


gambeson (optional)

Ventailed hauberk, chausses, maille

mufflers,

I- Nasal helm

A- Open*, Faceplate helm/ Ex. Nasal helm

Soldier or Knight’s kite shield

Surcoat

‘C’ Hauberk with either mufflers OR chausses

I- Nasal helm

A- Open/Expanded Nasal/Faceplate helm

I- Knight’s kite/ A- Late kite

OR

Late hauberk and

I- Nasal helm

A- Open/Expanded Nasal /Faceplate helm


gambeson (optional) I- Knight’s kite/ A- Late kite

Ventailed hauberk, chausses, maille

mufflers

I- Nasal helm

A- Open*/Faceplate helm/ Ex. Nasal helm

I- Knight’s kite / A- Late kite

OR

Late hauberk with ventailed coif and

mufflers, maille hose

I- Nasal helm

A- Open*/Faceplate helm/ Ex. Nasal helm

I- Late kite / A- Knight’s kite

Surcoat

‘D’

N/A

Late hauberk and mufflers, maille

hose,

I- Faceplate helm

A- Open*/Nasal helm/ Expanded

Nasal helm

Late kite shield,

Surcoat

*Please note that when worn as “full armour” open helms must be worn with a ventail that covers the lower face completely to at least

the bottom of the nose


33

Baron


Head Open Helm Nasal Helm Faceplate Helm

-

Body Hauberk Late Hauberk -

Legs Maille hose Maille hose Padded cuisses (with maille hose)

Additional Gear Maille mufflers Maille mufflers -


Sword, Mace Dagger (as secondary)

Spear, Glaive, Hand-axe, Long-axe, Fauchard

Shield Knight’s Kite Late Kite Heater

-

Rank at a Glance Within the society all members of the regional and

national teams are considered ‘Barons’- the Baron

themselves, the Constable, the Warden and the

Sheriff (this is repeated at Country and

Society level).

The rank of Baron represents those

foremost magnates of the realm not part

of the royal family - and as such their

military impression is that of the most

advanced wargear of their period.

Using a two-handed polearm is

discouraged for Barons as whilst they

would fight on foot (the exploits of

William Marshall attest to this) they

would rarely use anything other than

the prestige weapons of their society- the lance, the sword and the shield.

The kit impression of a Baron should be outstanding without exception, with all

wargear closely fitted, well-presented and decorated wherever possible.


34

Wargear Definitions

And Regulations


35

Wargear in General

Wargear Standards and Maintenance Due to the intrinsic value of iron, wargear in period was an expensive commodity as

well as a mark of social status, and as such should be as well maintained as possible.

This means all wargear should be in an excellent state of repair, and maintained as

well as possible.

Weapon shafts and hafts should be kept well-cared for, free of cracks and splinters,

and the heads of any hafted weapons should be firmly affixed- in period this could be

a matter of life and death, and in modern competitive combat, is important as a

safety concern.

Any weapon featuring a blade longer than 20 inches must be made of suitable

ferrous steel- Vanadium, EN45 Sprung Steel or High-Carbon steel. Any weapon

deemed to be made of unsuitable materials by the Constabulary will be disbarred

from the field for the safety of other members. All other weapons must be made of

suitable ferrous steel- excepting maces (listed below).

All steel weapons should be free from rust, tarnish or unsmoothed burrs.

Fabric and leather equipment should be free of rents and tears - any damaged

equipment should be discreetly repaired to a good quality - in the case of Lords and

Barons, these repairs should not be apparent. All armour should be well-fitted to the

owner; especial attention should be paid to helmets, which should fit closely without

padded caps obscuring vision.

Wargear Muster-Checks

Wargear will be regularly inspected prior to muster at events by members of the

Constabulary. Wargear found to be in a poor state of maintenance may be failed and

subsequently barred from the field. Where possible the item may be re-submitted

after cleaning or modifying, however where this is not possible the member must

remove the item of wargear. This may lead to the member needing to downgrade

their kit impression or sit out the combat display.


36

Decoration on Wargear Wargear in period was an expensive investment, and at the upper echelons of society, could

be highly decorative and intricate. Below is a basic guide to how intricate and extensive

decoration should potentially be.

Feudal Levies (T1-T2) – Wargear would be relatively basic, but well-maintained. Repairs and

such may be in evidence, but would be as neat and functional as possible. Helmets that were

painted were done so for identification and preservation purposes, and such would not

feature particularly intricate designs.

Mercenaries (T3-T4)- Wargear would be well maintained, but still primarily functional.

Helmets may be painted as part of an aid to identification- largely in block colours rather

than distinct designs. Weapon scabbards may feature ‘scratched’ decoration in simple

geometric designs.

Feudal Retainers (T5-T7)- Wargear would show decorative flourishes, such as some incised

geometric designs on metalwork, on sword-hilts and helmets especially. Some brass may be

in evidence in some helmet designs (especially Mediterranean-style faceplate helms) and

weapon hilts. Helmets may be painted in more intricate heraldic themes, and leatherwork

may be made in acceptable colours for the tier (see Clothing Regulations). Lances and spears

may be painted heraldic colours, and should ideally feature pennons carrying either group or

familial heraldries. Mailleshirts may feature a row of decorative links (brass or copper or

alloys) along the bottom hem. Obviously, the degree of decoration should reflect the degree

of social status within the Retainer band, with less decorative touches on a Squire and

significantly more for a Lord.

Items such as surcoats and undertunics worn with armour should be routinely washed

between events as high-status men would have discarded more worn garments.

Magnates (T8-T9)- Wargear should show extensive decoration- such as brass decoration on

helmet brows and hauberk hems. Swords may feature either incised or acid-etched

decoration or brass-alloy hilts to reflect expensive period practises. Helmets should ideally

either feature extensive painted decoration, or significantly more rarely, applied metalwork

decoration (please contact the High Constable to discuss beforehand). Lances and polearms

should ideally feature painted decoration or colourful pennons and attached braided cords.

Belts worn with wargear should ideally feature some plated or studded metalwork

decoration, with belts coloured an appropriate heraldic colour where possible (see Clothing

Regulations). Wargear should, wherever possible, feature no visible repairs (as such items

would be discarded in period), and as such, repairs should be hidden as much as possible

when necessary.

Obviously, the degree of decoration should reflect the degree of social status within the

Magnate group, with less decorative touches on a Baron and significantly more for an Earl.


37

Items such as surcoats and undertunics worn with armour should be routinely washed

between events to minimise staining and obvious wear, as high-status men would have

discarded more worn garments.

Marking Equipment

Regional Colours All weapons other than swords, daggers and proto-falchions, must be marked with

the region’s colours to prevent loss/confusion. For polearms, these should be painted

either below the weapon head on the haft, or when the haft features a leather collar,

below the collar. The colours should be orientated so the ‘top’ (first) colour listed is at

the top when the weapon is held upright.

For hand-weapons (maces, clubs, axes and long-knives) the regional colours should

be dotted on the bottom of the handle. Group markings should be made additionally

with pyrography on the butt of weapons, the nocking points on bows or the stocks of

crossbows.

For bows these colours should be painted as stripes or dots on the belly of the bow

above the bow’s grip- crossbows somewhere along the stock, Swords, daggers and

proto-falchions may be marked with a coloured woollen lanyard.

See chart below:


38

England

Region Colours

High Constable’s

Familia

Black, White, Red, White, Black

English Earl’s Familia

Black, Gold, Black

English Irregular

Yellow, Black, Gold

Northumberland &

Westmorland

White, Red, Gold

Lancashire

Black, Red, Gold

Yorkshire

Red, White, Blue

West Mercia

Blue, White, Gold

North Mercia

Green, White, Red

South Mercia

Blue, Gold, Red

Sussex

Red, Blue, Gold

Wessex

Red, Gold, (Pale) Blue


39

Wales

Scotland

Welsh Earl’s Familia

Red, White, Red, White, Red

Welsh Irregular

White, Red, White

North Wales

Black, White, Black

Glamorgan

Red, White, Black

Scottish Earl’s Familia

Green, Yellow, Green

Scottish Irregulars

Gold, Green, Gold

Lalians

Gold, Blue, Gold


40

Kit Bags Members lacking their own tent are urged to procure a linen sack that ties shut in

which to stow their wargear- especially gambesons, arming caps padded mufflers and

helms, as these are relatively generic items that can be easily lost or mislaid. During

show hours, these can also be used to stow modern items (in the bottom) so that they

can be placed in authentically dressed tents without issue.

Such sacks should have a woven cord in the region’s colours and the groups’ heraldry

stitched close to the opening. A distinguishing mark so a member can easily identify

it - such as a single letter from their name or a number is highly recommended.

These should be stitched discreetly inside the top edge of the sack.

Members portraying mercenaries may procure a similar sack in leather to

distinguish their status as year-long professionals who would need to carry their gear

on campaign.

Stowing Wargear on the Encampment At larger events each region is encouraged to have a single armoury display, and a

single practical armoury storage area. All equipment found, either on the field or on

the Encampment, will be brought to the region’s armoury - regional officers are then

expected to organise their own lost property.

At smaller events where only a single armoury displays and a single practical

armoury is present, combatants are expected to stow their gear clearly by region and

group to ease identification and prevent loss.


41

Bladed Weapons Bladed Weapons in General

Blades are, in most cases, the more expensive weapons available in our period of

interest, especially the sword and the dagger. Swords and daggers can only be carried

by higher class members (see Daggers), and as such are a medieval mark of rank;

sheaths and scabbards should be well made and maintained and leather or cord-

wrapped hilts should be kept in an excellent state of preservation.

Knives and proto-falchions should feature plain hardwood hilts, which may also

feature carved ‘grip rings’.

Points on all bladed weapons should feature a tip suitable for thrusting with a profile

of a 2008 issue One Penny piece as a minimum, and feature a rounded-edge blade at

least 2-3mm thick.

Any weapon featuring a blade longer than 20 inches must be made from suitable

ferrous steel- Vanadium, EN45 Sprung Steel or High-Carbon steel. Any weapon

deemed to be made of unsuitable materials by the Constabulary will be disbarred

from the field for the safety of other members.

As of the 2017 season swords must be of a proven weight for the member to wield

safely. Members are advised to seek swords between 1kg-1.3kg as a typical sensible

weight. Swords heavier than this range are permitted, members will be under

increased scrutiny regarding their ability to use them safely.

Swords more than 1.9kg in overall weight will not be considered suitable for use

within the society.

All bladed weapons (except for the fauchard/warbrand) must be accompanied with a

suitable scabbard - swords with a scabbard with integrated tie-belt, and knives with a

scabbard with a suspension loop to be hung from a belt. Bladed weapons without a

suitable scabbard may be disbarred from the field during Muster.


42

Sword

Overview Swords represent the pinnacle weapon prestige, and as such should be very well

maintained- blades and fittings should be free of rust, tarnish and burs, and the grips

should be well maintained and replaced when worn. Most members should seek a

sword around 28-30” long (as listed above) weighing between 1kg-1.3kg. As with all

wargear, these weapons should be sensibly scaled in context and strength of the user;

heavier swords are permissible, but members must be able to demonstrate their

ability to use them safely.

For the majority of members swords should feature a single fuller running down at

least 2/3rds of the blade, however swords carried by Lord or Barons may feature

double or triple fullers (marked * on the below chart).

Swords carried by Knights-Barons may additionally feature brass/bronze pommels,

with steel or matching crosses. Pommels may feature incised decorations and blades

may have inlays or acid etching.

Swords must be accompanied by a scabbard with an integral sword belt as shown in

period illustrations and secured by a ‘split tie’ design. Scabbards must either be made

of semi-rigid leather with one 'back-seam', or be formed of-leather covered wood.

Sword R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) X

Garrison Archer (A) X

Mercenary Archer (A) X

Crossbow Serjeant (A) X

Captain (A) X

Levy X

Militia X

Serviens X

Serjeant X

Squire X X

Knight X X

Baron X X

Sword Minimum Maximum Ideal

Blade Length 26” 32” 28”-30”

Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 2008 issue £2 2008 issue 10p


43

When selecting a sword, please refer to the sword table below.

The pommels are assigned letters (A-I) and the three predominant crosses are given numerical values

(1-3)- 1, 2 and 3 all represent ‘bar’ crosses- a rectangle of metal without embellishment or shape -

whilst some other limited crosses do exist, these three types predominate.

The given letter-number combinations represent finished ‘swords’- so A1 would be an almond pommel

on a short, broad cross.

The period given is the ‘first instances’ of the sword- this does not mean it will not be suitable for

Normannis use- all listed swords are- but it shows that the sword was ‘out of date’ or very new by the

trends of the period- and therefore more likely to be used by lower-ranking members or Lords and

Barons. Swords marked with an ‘X’ next to their number are unknown fitting combinations - usually a

late period pommel with an early period cross- and should not be used.

Period Dateline Ideal Rank

A1 Early C11th Serviens-Serjeants

A2 Mid/Early C11th-Early

C12th

Serviens-Barons

A3 Mid C12th Serviens-Barons

B1 Early Late C10th Serviens only

B2 Mid/Early C11th-Early

C12th

Serviens-Barons

B3 Mid C12th Serviens-Barons

C1 X SWORD UNKNOWN N/A

C2 Mid Early 12thC Serviens-Barons

C3 Mid 12thC Serviens-Barons

D1 Late Late C12th-C13th-

GERMAN

Barons - IMPORTED

D2 Late Late C12th-C13th Barons

D3 Late Late C12th-C13th Barons

E1 Late Late C12th-C13th-

GERMAN

Barons - IMPORTED

E2 Late Late C12th-C13th Barons

E3 Late Late C12th-C13th Barons

F1* Late Late C12th-C13th-

GERMAN

Barons- IMPORTED

F2* Early-Late C11th-C13th Knights-Barons

F3* Mid-Late C12th-C13th Knights-Barons

G1 Early-Late C11th-C13th Serviens-Lords

G2 Late Mid C12th-C13th Knights-Barons

G3 Mid C12th Serviens-Barons

H1 X SWORD UNKNOWN N/A

H2* Late Early C13th Barons

H3* Late Mid C12th-C13th Knights-Barons

I1 X SWORD UNKNOWN N/A

I2 Late Late C12th-C13th Knights-Barons

I3 Mid C12th-C13th Serviens-Barons


44

Dagger

Dagger Minimum Maximum Ideal

Blade Length 6” 16” 12”

Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 3” rounded 2008 issue 10p

Overview The dagger is the secondary weapon of the higher-classes portrayed throughout our

period. Daggers may feature a single edged (preferred) or double-edged blade with a

central fuller or a diamond-section blade. Like swords daggers are a prestige item

and should be carefully maintained with clean blades, hilts and pommels and well-

maintained grips and sheaths. For designs of dagger, please see the table below.

Daggers may feature either

steel or brass hilts.

Daggers, like all blades, must

be carried in a suitable sheath.

These may feature a 'back-

seam' in semi-rigid leather or a

leather-covered wooden

construction.

Dagger R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) X




Captain (A) *

Levy X

Militia X

Serviens X

Serjeant *

Squire *

Knight *

Baron *

*- as secondary

Daggers should be made from two elements from the above

sections (e.g. G1) The most common daggers in period artwork are;

E1, F1, G1, E2, F2, G2, E3, F3

https://wiki.normannis.tr00st.co.uk/index.php/File:DaggerProfiles.png


45

Proto-Falchions

Proto-Falchion R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) X




Captain (A) X

Levy X

Militia X

Serviens X

Serjeant X

Squire X

Knight X

Baron X

Overview The proto-falchion was a weapon that seems to have originated in southern Europe- a

form of longer knife that was distinctly blade-heavy and designed to cleave. This

weapon would later evolve into the mid-13thC falchion- as such we term this weapon

a proto-falchion.

These weapons should feature an ‘umbrella handle’ hilt made of two wooden scales

riveted to the tang. The weapon should feature a narrow, deep fuller running up the

back of the blade, which should terminate in a curved, ‘hook’ point conforming to the

profiles listed above. The blade itself can be hollow ground to reduce the overall

weight and make it safer for use in combat.

This weapon would be distinctly rarer in Normannis’ period of interest- and the

relative exclusivity in ranks allowed to use it reflect this- ideally there should be no

more than two of these weapons in a group to prevent them being over-represented

within the society. For preference, these weapons should be used by poorer-

impression Serviens and richer Militia- maille clad men not otherwise carrying

swords. This weapon should not be carried as a secondary by shield-bearing infantry.

Proto-Falchion Minimum Maximum Ideal


Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 2008 issue 10p 2008 issue 1p


46

Long Knives

Overview

The most common bladed weapon across our period of interest was the long knife.

Seaxes should be actively discouraged and only carried (in the few cases that they are

carried at all) by lower-class members of the group.

Early forms of baselard, featuring preferably

a single, or less preferably a double-edged

blade is actively encouraged. These should be

mounted on plain wooden, horn or antler

hilts.

Profiles for blade shapes are given on the

right.

It should be noted that whilst it is acceptable maille-wearing warriors are actively

discouraged from using a long knife as their primary weapon.

Some form of short guard and pommel-cap are encouraged, especially amongst

members above the Militia rank.

Knives, like all blades must be accompanied by a sheath; either a leather scabbard

with a semi-rigid 'back-seam' or a wooden core covered in leather.

Long-knife R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) X


Mercenary Archer (A) X*

Crossbow Serjeant (A) *

Captain (A) *

Levy X

Militia X*

Serviens *

Serjeant *

Squire *

Knight *

Baron X

X- as primary *- as secondary

Long Knife Minimum Maximum Ideal




47

Fauchard/War-brand

Hand-axe Minimum Maximum Ideal

Length Ground to Hip Ground to Armpit Ground to mid-torso

Point Profile 2008 issue 10p 3” Rounded 2008 issue 10p

Overview

The Fauchard is a rare weapon in medieval Europe- possibly a descendant of the

classical Falx, or possibly a development of an agricultural tool. The weapon

consisted of a wooden haft between one third and one half the length of the overall

weapon, and a single-edged cutting blade. These weapons would likely have been

slightly cheaper to produce than swords, though arguably not by much.

These weapons should feature a long tang through the haft, or a substantial socket

design of proven quality- due to the potential safety issues around a poorly secured

Fauchard blade, these will be inspected and judged on a case-by-case basis.

These weapons were notably rare in Normannis’ period of interest- and as such

members wishing to purchase one should contact a member of the local

Constabulary so that the number of these weapons per region can be monitored, and

specialist training given.

Fauchard/War-brand R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) X




Captain (A) X

Levy X

Militia X

Serviens X

Serjeant X

Squire X

Knight X

Baron X


48

Hand-axes, Clubs and Maces Hand Weapons in General All maces/axe hafts and clubs should be made of suitable hardwood (ash or oak) or

softwood (pine, redwood) suitably disguised with either oils or stains.

Hafted weapons do not need to be made from EN45, Vanadium or other suitable

steels- mild steel is appropriate, or, for some maces, brass alloy.

Axes and flanged maces should be mounted on hafts using splitting and wedging,

but may be riveted in place for additional security. Wedges should be formed of a

suitable hardwood to resist crushing and warping over time.

Ball maces should be mounted with a single rivet through the haft. Warclubs should

have all ‘stud’ nails fixed firmly, with no snagging point, and shed nails or fittings

should be replaced at the first opportunity.

Hafted hand-weapons should be no more than 600g in overall weight as a guideline

‘upper limit’. Whilst there is allowance and variance for different members, the best

wieldable weight is around 350g-400g for a hand weapon. Weapons significantly

heavier than this will be subject to scrutiny from the Constabulary and members

wielding them must demonstrate that they can do so safely.

The grip area of hand-weapons can be carved with concentric grooves- in the case of

warclubs and maces this is heavily encouraged.

Axes, clubs and maces may also feature leather lanyards attached through a hole at

the bottom of the haft.

Maces and axes should ideally feature a leather or rawhide collar affixed below the

head- preferably stitched. These should be well maintained and replaced when they

become tattered.


49

Hand-axes

Hand-axe Minimum Maximum Ideal

Length Fingertips-Elbow Fingertips-Armpit Wrist-Armpit

Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 2008 issue 10p 2008 issue 1p

Hand axes within the period demonstrate a great deal of variety; from the bearded

design, reminiscent of the earlier Viking and Saxon axes, to the more developed

crescent axe of the late 12th century.

Members below the rank of Knight should carry a relatively simple hand axe,

featuring a wedge-shaped asymmetrical or bearded blade, whilst members portraying

Knights or Barons carrying axes should seek to acquire a crescent-bladed or flared

wedge-shaped axe (as two known war-axe variants). These weapons’ blades may

feature limited geometric decoration, or cut-out sections (such as crosses or

trefoils/quatrefoils).

It is imperative that when acquiring an axe that members find a head of a suitable

weight that can be easily managed on their length of haft (average around 300-500g,

and assure that there are no snag points that can hook on to enemies during combat.

Hand-axe R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) X




Captain (A) X

Levy X

Militia X

Serviens X

Serjeant X

Squire X

Knight X

Baron X


50

Warclubs Warclub R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) X




Captain (A) X

Levy X

Militia X

Serviens X

Serjeant X

Squire X

Knight X

Baron X

All clubs must be marked with a grip made up of concentric grooves no more than 2”

from the bottom of the haft for no more than ¼ of the length of the haft. Lanyards

are advisable for clubs as they would be weapons with significant weight and

therefore pull.

Clubs are broken down into major groups of differing design;

Winchester/Aberdeen Warclub

These warclubs are formed of a bulbous striking head of roughly four inches in

length, either octagonal or rounded, and bedded with large rounded iron nails in

each major face in an alternating 1:2 pattern. A top-spike finishes the head, allowing

the weapon to be thrust as well as slung.

Maciejowski Warclub

These warclubs are similar to a modern rounders bat - featuring a continuous rake

down the length from a widened striking head down to the grip on the haft. The head

should be made up of multiple smaller iron studs arranged in alternating rows quite

densely, stretching down around 1/3rd of the club’s length. The end of the striking

zone should be marked either with a carved groove or a narrow strip of leather that

spirals down the length of the club to the top of the grip.

Warclub Minimum Maximum Ideal

Overall Length Elbow to fingertips Armpit to fingertips Wrist to armpit

Additional Info All nails should be blunt, smooth and well-bedded


51

Maces

Maces Minimum Maximum Ideal

Overall Length Elbow to fingertips Armpit to fingertips Wrist to armpit

Additional Info See sections for individual safety notes

Maces were a weapon of prestige in the period, being designed as they were to

counter other armoured enemies from foot and horseback. Some poorer examples,

almost iron-headed clubs, were used by professional soldiers on foot. It is important

that members seek a mace that is highly manageable for their strength at the length

they intend to use- 300g is usually the upper limit of what can be used safely.

These weapons should feature a ‘grip’ area marked with concentric carved circles and

for preference, a leather lanyard.

Maces R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) X



Crossbow Serjeant (A) B F/S

Captain (A) B F/S

Levy X

Militia X

Serviens B F/S

Serjeant F/S B

Squire F/S B

Knight F/S B

Baron F/S B

X- All Maces B-Ball Maces F- Flanged Maces

S- Spiked Mace


52

The three forms of mace are;

Ball Mace

Formed from a collared iron ball mounted on a haft, these weapons are more a form

of iron-shod cudgel than a mace, and as such carry the least prestige - members of

Knight or above are discouraged from carrying these maces.

Spiked Mace

Formed of brass or copper-alloy, these maces should feature heads with multiple

projections or ‘spikes’, but these must be flattened enough to be deemed safe by the

High Constable- these will be checked and passed on a case-by-case basis - the best

test is to press them against the hand and check that no given facet digs in and that

the pressure is spread equally.

Flanged Mace

Formed of copper-alloy or steel blades projecting out of a central socket, these maces

emulated the weapons that Crusaders had first encountered in the hands of

Byzantines and Syrians. Maces with flanges projecting beyond 1cm are automatically

deemed unsafe; as are any with a flange less than 5mm in thickness. These flanges

should be well-rounded in their upper and lower extents, and have no 'projecting'

centre to their blades.


53

Polearms

Polearms in General All polearms should be mounted on either suitable hardwood hafts (ash or oak) or

softwood hafts suitably disguised (pine, redwood) with either oils or stains. Due to the

heavier stress placed on polearm hafts, hardwood shafts are much preferred. These

hafts should ideally be octagonal in nature- both to increase the amount of control

that can be exerted and as a reflection of period pollarding methods.

Axes should be mounted on hafts using splitting and wedging, but may be riveted in

place for additional security. Bill/Glaive heads should be mounted by being riveted

through the haft to give a secure fit.

For preference all polearms should feature a leather or rawhide collar affixed below

the head- preferably stitched tightly in place.

These should be well maintained and replaced when they become tattered.

Polearm heads can be blackened- either as a forge-finish, or as a chemical process.

‘Edges’ of the weapon (the areas that would be sharpened) should be scoured to a

silvered finish to simulate the area where the blackening would be sharpened out.

Weapons with clear agricultural primary uses (billhooks and felling axes) should

feature not additional decoration, whereas glaives and axes carried by members

portraying Squires, Knights and Baron may feature some decorative touches (see

weapon descriptions for more information).


54

This chart represents the ‘ideal’

tier for the stated form of axes.

Members can carry an axe a tier

above or beneath this ideal-

which is considered ‘acceptable’.

Long Axe Long Axe R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) * X

Garrison Archer (A) * X

Mercenary Archer (A) * X

Crossbow Serjeant (A) * X

Captain (A) * X

Levy * X

Militia * X

Serviens * X

Serjeant * X

Squire * X

Knight * X

Baron * X

*- Or a spear or other polearm

In Normannis’ period of interest there were many different forms of axe carried in

war- varying from adapted peasant tools to fully weaponised polearms.

When carried by T5 combatants and above, axes may occasionally feature blade cut-

outs- simple geometric patterns of the blade removed- such as small crosses or

rounded trefoil or quatrefoil forms.

They may also (more rarely) feature

incised decoration in an established 12th

century pattern.

The heads of these axes may be

blackened at any rank.

Long-Axe Minimum Maximum Ideal

Overall Length

(A-C)

Armpit to floor Full height of user Nose height of user

Overall Length

(D-E)

Chin to floor One foot taller than user Full height of user

Blade Points 2008 issue 1p 2008 issue 10p 2008 issue 1p

Head Axe Type Ideal Haft Ideal Tier

A Felling axe Armpit to ground 1-2

B General purpose axe Chin to ground 1-3

C Dane-axe Nose to ground 3-7

D Modified planking axe Full height of user 1-3

E Crescent axe Full height of user 3-7


55

Bill/Glaive Bill/Glaive R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) * X

Garrison Archer (A) * X

Mercenary Archer (A) * X

Crossbow Serjeant (A) * X

Captain (A) * X

Levy * X

Militia * X

Serviens * X

Serjeant * X

Squire * X

Knight * X

Baron * X

*- Or a spear or other polearm

These weapons must feature some sort of curved blade attached to the haft by a

socket. For lower-class members (Levy-Militia) these should take the form of

billhooks mounted on hafts, whereas for higher ranked members (Serviens-above)

these weapons usually feature a longer, curved knife-like

blade.

These weapons can stand a foot taller than the user, but

must be of a proven usable weight that the member can use

safely.

The heads of these weapons may be blackened at any rank.

Glaives carried by Squires, Knights or Barons may feature

some incised geometric decoration, and a painted haft.

Bill/Glaive Minimum Maximum Ideal

Overall Length Ground to chin 1’ taller than user 6” taller than user



56

Spears

Spears in General

All spearheads must be 'blobbed' with a rounded, widened tip.

The spearhead must be firmly secured with either two nails of suitable design

pinning the head to the shaft, or a single rivet through the shaft and peened.

Regardless of how the spearhead is fitted, any exposed metal should be flush with the

surface (special attention should be given to the nail or rivet head to ensure they do

not act as a 'burr').

The spear-shaft should be made of a suitable hardwood (ash) or a softwood (pine,

redwood) of sufficient quality stained or oiled. The surface of the spear-shaft should

be octagonal in section, to reflect period pollarding methods.

Spears may be 'collared' below the head in leather; the collar may consist of either

wound leather, or more recommended is a stitched leather sheath.

Spearheads may be blackened at any rank; though this would be distinctly less

common amongst professional soldiers (whose spearheads would be made of better

steel and frequently whetted).

Any pennons attached to spear hafts should display the group’s heraldry orientated

correctly when the spear is stood ‘upright’- with the head held aloft.

The shaft and head should be kept in good repair; free of rust, burrs and splinters.


57

One-Handed Spear/Lance One-handed Spear R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) * *

Garrison Archer (A) * *

Mercenary Archer (A) * *

Crossbow Serjeant (A) * *

Captain (A) * *

Levy * *

Militia * *

Serviens * *

Serjeant * *

Squire * *

Knight * *

Baron * *

*- Or a two-handed spear/polearm

One-Handed Spear Minimum Maximum Ideal

Overall Length Full height of user 1’ taller than user 6” taller than user

Point Profile Widened/flattened Blobbed Blobbed

The single-handed spear or ‘lance’ was the universal weapon of the 12th century- and

was deemed a requirement in the Assize of Arms. These weapons were utilised with a

shield to allow large blocks of infantry to defend themselves from cavalry as well as

attack other infantry formations- the relative cheapness of the weapon allowed for

mass procurement by even the poorest members of the Levy.

Wherever possible, the spearheads utilised should be as small as practical (15cm or

less overall), with hafts being kept around an inch in diameter.

These weapons should not feature ‘wings’ on the spearhead.

When such weapons are carried by Squires or above they may be painted in heraldic

colours and feature a triangular pennon - representing as they do a shortened lance

being used on foot.


58

Two-Handed Spear Two-handed Spear R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) * *

Garrison Archer (A) * *

Mercenary Archer (A) * *

Crossbow Serjeant (A) * *

Captain (A) * *

Levy * *

Militia * *

Serviens * *

Serjeant * *

Squire * *

Knight * *

Baron * *

*- Or a single-handed spear/polearm

Two-Handed Spear Minimum Maximum Ideal

Overall Length 1’ taller than user 10’ 7’-9’

Point Profile Widened/flattened Blobbed Blobbed

Whilst rarer in period depiction than their one-handed counterparts, two-handed

spears were utilised by poorer light infantry standing between shielded men to

increase their potential lethality, and by armoured troops on foot who were less

concerned about the need for a shield.

The spearhead may be 32cm long (excluding the socket), and as short as

commercially available. All spearheads must be 'blobbed' or feature a rounded,

widened tip that flares in both planes.

Spears may also feature 'spades' or 'wings'- but these must not exceed 4 inches in

length and must be well-rounded to prevent injury. Such spears should be checked

regularly to keep them secure as the spades can act as levers, loosening the head.

When such weapons are carried by Squires or above they may be painted in heraldic

colours and feature a triangular pennon - representing a cavalry lance being used on

foot.


59

Bows & Crossbows Bow Weapons R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X S W/C

Levy Archer (A) X S/C W

Garrison Archer (A) X S/C W

Mercenary Archer (A) X C S/W

Crossbow Serjeant (A) C C X

Captain (A) C/W C W S

Levy X

Militia X

Serviens X

Serjeant X

Squire X

Knight X

Baron X

S-Selfbow/W-Warbow/C-Crossbow/X-All Bows

Type Minimum Poundage Maximum Poundage

Selfbow 20lb 25lb

Warbow 20lb 25lb

Crossbow 30lb 40lb

Bow and Crossbows in General All bow-weapons used in combat are limited in their poundage - 25lbs for bows and

40lbs for crossbows at maximum draw. Bows should be strung with either linen,

sinew or silk strings or approximations that are otherwise indistinguishable. All bow

weapons should be ideally made from ash or another period-suitable wood (rowan,

elm, yew or lime).

Selfbow A bow used equally for hunting and war - standing shorter than the height of the

user - preferably to their upper chest. These bows were simple in construction - a

single bough of wood tapering down to the nocking points, either flat or semi-

circular in section. They may be constructed from finished, plain timber, or

alternatively feature knots and stave imperfections.


60

Warbow The terminology for these bow designs are not taken from period sources, but rather

the 14th century term that would differentiate heavier-pounded bows designed to be

effective against armoured men rather than simple hunting tools.

These bows come in two distinct designs in-period- either the Anglo-Saxon and

Danish traditional hunting bow, standing the full height of the user and a simple

tapered stave in design- highly finished and polished.

There is also evidence for a minority design in Europe of the classical ‘cupid’ form of

bow- featuring a gentle outward curve when not strung, and forming a double-

recurve when strung. These weapons should be made of clear all-wood construction,

and carried more rarely than their English style counterparts- please speak to a

Constable or Vintenar before acquiring.

Crossbow The crossbow was the emerging mass-deployment weapon of the 12th century-

threatening even the spear’s pride of place as a traditional ‘militia’ weapon.

In Normannis’ period there were largely two variants of the crossbow design - one

featuring a rising ‘pin’ or ‘pillar’ - essentially a large wooden hinge with a projecting

dowel which forced the string up, and the newer and more technologically advanced

‘rolling nut’, featuring a cylindrical metallic, wooden or horn catch that was loosed

when the ‘tricker’ was pressed.

Crossbows should in general be quite long in the stock and the prod - roughly the

length of the user’s outstretched fingertips to shoulder in both regards. Stocks may

be made of any suitable period hardwood or a softwood suitably disguised, whereas

the prod may be made from any approved period ‘bow wood’.

Please note that ‘stirrups’ on crossbows for ease of loading did not appear until the

early 13th C and as such are not permitted at the majority of Normannis events.


61

Arrows and Bolts All archers must store their arrows in a hip-quiver or bolt-box worn suspended from

the belt, with at least the minimum stated number of arrows. All missiles should be

headed with, for preference, a red-head archery blunt.

Green-heads are allowed but actively discouraged due to their appearance - the

society is actively seeking a similar design in alternative colours.

Arrows Arrows should be fletched in natural-coloured feathers - white, black, brown or grey.

Group markings should be placed on the arrow shaft below the head or fletching.

Four-fletched or three-fletched arrow variants are equally allowed, and members are

encouraged to have both types of arrows for close and long-range shooting.

Arrow shafts may be constructed from pine dowel or preferably from a suitable

period wood (ash, cedar or poplar).

Bolts Bolts should be fletched in natural coloured feathers - white, black or grey, or with

stiffened leather flights. Bolts may have two or three fletches, arranged laterally or in

a triangular formation. Group markings should be placed on the shaft below the

head or fletching. Bolts should measure no more than 12”, however, most crossbows

are served best with a bolt around 9-10” in length.

Crossbowmen are encouraged, like archers, to maintain two sets of bolts for close and

long range - closer-ranged bolts should have larger fletches, light-weight shafts and

should ideally be longer than their long-range counterparts so they can be readily

identified.


62

Quivers and Bolt-Boxes

Whilst technically not a weapon, these items or directly related to the carriage of

arrows and bolts on the field, and so the parameters for such are laid down here.

Quivers and bolt-boxes should be made of brown or tan leather when designed for

field use.

Barons may have coloured and decorated quivers as part of their Encampment

equipment (for use when hunting) but these should not be carried on the battlefield

unless as part of a Scenario Combat.

If attempting to make your own quiver or bolt-box please consult with the

Leatherworker’s Guild to ensure an item of field-quality.

Quivers should be designed to be hung from the hip, as per period illustration - and

are essentially a long bag, some four or five inches shorter than the overall length of

the arrows inside, constructed from light, flexible leather.

Such items should be constructed by folding a square of leather into a rectangular

shape that tapers towards the bottom and sewing the long edge and bottom shut. A

hanging loop should then be attached to the top edge.

Bolt boxes should be made from heavier, armour-grade leather. Bolt boxes should be

formed of a long rectangle of leather looped back on itself and sew edge-to-edge,

with a cylindrical bottom sewn in - similar in form to a period pouch turned on its

side with an open top. These should leave the bolt’s fletching exposed at the top and

feature a leather loop to suspend it from a waist-belt.


63

Shields

Shields in General All shields should be constructed of two or three sheets of ply wood or planks glued

in a curved section with a minimum thickness of 11mm, and a maximum thickness

of 14mm. Shields must be faced in leather or glue-soaked canvas and hand-painted in

the group's colours with either oil-finished matt or satin-finish paints.

Shields other than a Late Kite or Heater may feature a boss.

All shields must have either a canvas or parchment covered back or have exposed

wood scored in the direction of the grain to indicate planking, and the straps affixed

with a rivet formed around a period-look square washer (any exposed bolt-ends cut

and peened). For preference, the back of the shields should be stained (wood) or

painted (canvas/parchment), as this makes the shield far more durable (either wood-

stain applied evenly or a suitable wood oil such as linseed).

Edging may either be multiple layers of glued canvas itself, leather or rawhide.

Edging should be kept clean and tidy, without 'bald' or badly damaged areas, or in the

case of rawhide, cracked sections which may cause injury. Rims may be painted in

the group's charge or field colour (especially if made from canvas or rawhide).

Shields for Spearmen / Polearmsmen

Spearmen / Polearmsmen may sling their shield across their front, and using the

leather back strap to guide the shield use it in conjunction with a two-handed pole

arm, provided they keep two hands on the weapon throughout combat, and the shield

is not slung across the throat, or sling their shield across their back to allow free

movement.


64

Shields R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) S S X

Garrison Archer (A) S S X

Mercenary Archer (A) S S X

Crossbow Serjeant (A) S S T/K X

Captain (A) S K T X

Levy S S X

Militia S S X

Serviens S S X

Serjeant S S T/K X

Squire S S T/K X

Knight K K/L S X

Baron K L/H K X

S- Soldier’s/ T-Transitional/ K- Knight’s/ L- Late/

H- Heater/ X- All Other Shields

Shields Minimum Maximum Ideal

Width 24” (S,T,K,L) 26” (H) N/A

Length See Chart/Descriptions See Chart/Descriptions See Chart/Descriptions

Soldier's Kite Shield A kite shield with a rounded top swelling to 24” across the ‘belly’ and

tapering to a curved bottom or a point. Traditionally these shields

were expected to cover the head as well as the upper body so they

should ideally be as tall as practical for the user.

Preferably unbacked (exposed wooden planks).

(A or slightly above on diagram).


65

Transitional Kite Shield A kite shield with a slightly flatter top and a squatter shape than the

Soldier’s Kite. These shields may taper to a rounded bottom or a

distinct point (as shown). These shields fit specifically into the

Serjeant class as they were increasingly carried by men whose

limb armour afforded them more protection, but were not the

'cutting edge' when compared with the larger, flat-topped kite

shields. (B-C on diagram)

Preferably unbacked (exposed wooden planks).

(Please note that this shield is meant to be a rare shield showing

foreign influence; there should not be more than one *if any* in a

group)

Knight's Kite Shield

These shields are the 'stereotypical' 12th century shield; a

curved-section, flat-topped kite shield, and can feature a

boss 1/3 of the way down the total length (when carried

by knights these shields should ALWAYS feature a boss).

These should stand from roughly the lower chest/upper

stomach to the ground; leeway is allowable in either

direction (but not too much!). (A-B on diagram)

May be backed or unbacked (canvas/parchment back or

planks).


66

Late Kite Shield

Towards the end of the latter half of the period, shields

began to shrink down as limb armour improved and

their comprehensive protection was required less and

less. A mid-way point was the Late Kite Shield - standing

less high than previous shields (B-C on diagram) and of

a squatter overall shape, it marked the beginning of the

decline of the kite shield.

May be backed or unbacked (canvas/parchment back or

planks).

Heater Towards the end of the period, shields began to

shrink down even further, eventually developing into

an early version of the heater shield. (C-D on

diagram) These shields were most popular with men

whose full body armour required less augmentation

and greater speed and manoeuvrability was valued

more. These shields should only be used at later

period shows, and only by Barons or Earls wearing

Full Maille. These shields should not feature a boss,

and can measure 26” across the widest point of the

shield, which should start at the top edge of the

shield.

May be backed or unbacked (canvas/parchment back

or planks).


67

Armour

Armour in General Armour, like weapons, was an expensive and prestigious asset in the 12th century

world and should always be treated and presented as such. Soldiers would trust their

lives to their armour’s ability to stop blows, and therefore all equipment should be

kept in an excellent state of repair, oiled and free of rust and darned and repaired in

the case of padded armour.

Gambesons

Gambesons R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) L F

Garrison Archer (A) L

Mercenary Archer (A) L F L/F*

Crossbow Serjeant (A) F F* L*

Captain (A) F* F* L

Levy L F

Militia L F L/F*

Serviens L* F* L*

Serjeant F* F* L

Squire F* F* L

Knight F* F* L

Baron F* F* L

L-Light/ F-Full/*-Under Maille

Gambesons worn as independent armour should be padded in excess on 1cm in

thickness, those worn under armour 7.5mm/1cm for preference. Gambesons may be

fronted in canvas (least preferable) or in thick linen (most preferable), and sewn in

continuous north/south lines. These may be machine sewn. Gambesons should be

made in one piece and pulled over the wearer's head like a tunic for preference,

however tied; laced or buckled gambesons are acceptable. Gambesons may feature

throat protection, but this is not a requirement.

Gambesons are considered an item of wargear and should be treated as such- all

modern manufacture markings should be concealed inside and out, and the garment

should be in a good state of repair and maintenance.


68

Light Gambeson

Light Gambesons are less expansive padded armour worn by lower-tiered members

who in period would look to conserve materials and reduce the weight and

discomfort of their armour wherever possible due to their relatively high marching

to fighting ratio.

Light gambesons must reach between the mid-thigh and the knee, and must feature

sleeves to either just above or below the elbow; these cannot be any shorter or longer.

These gambesons may feature a front split, a front-and-back split or side venting. All

padded armour must be substantial in construction as to afford real protection.

Full Gambeson

Full Gambesons may be worn either as independent armour or under maille armour.

Full Gambesons must feature full-length sleeves, and should reach to at least the

knees. Full Gambesons should be front-split or front-and-back split.

In general, all gambesons should be the natural colour of their fronting material (i.e.

natural undyed linen); however, members of the Knight rank or above may have

their gambeson dyed in whatever colours are allowable for their rank.

All padded armour must be substantial in construction as to afford real protection.


69

Maille Shirts

Maille in General

Maille armour must be constructed from ferrous steel rings, ranging from 6mm-

10mm in diameter, either round or flat in section. Maille links may be butted or

rivetted- either with round or wedge rivets. All garments should be kept in a good

state of general repair - any garment deemed unfit for use may be barred from the

field. Maille armour may be decorated with contrasting coloured links at the hem of

the garment, but not more than four rows. Maille garments must not feature a split

that rises above the groin, and maille should have sufficiently voluminous skirts that

the split is not under tension and pulled open.

All maille garments must be worn over suitable padding- a corslet may be worn over

a light gambeson, and all other maille garments should be worn over a full

gambeson. Habergeons and Hauberks must feature an attached coif or hood of

maille, and hauberks especially should ideally feature ventails in most cases (see

garment descriptions below); Corselets may feature both integrated coifs and

ventails- though this is not a requirement.

Ventails

Ventails in period come in a variety of designs- and as such ventails may cover the

bottom of the chin, or obscure the mouth and cover to the bottom of the nose. Ideally

when they are being worn with nasals as part of ‘full maille’ the latter design should

be used- when being worn as non-full maille or in conjunction with a faceplate the

former design is equally suitable.

Maille R I A U

Bowman (NCA) X

Levy Archer (A) X


Mercenary Archer (A) C X

Crossbow Serjeant (A) C C* X

Captain (A) C* Hg+v E X

Levy X

Militia C/C* X

Serviens C C* Hg X

Serjeant Hg E+v E X

Squire E H+v H X

Knight See Table in ‘Knight’

Baron H+v L H+v X

C- Corslet/C*-Corslet with integral coif/v- Ventail/

Hg-Haubergion/E- Early Hauberk

H- Hauberk/L- Late Hauberk/X-All other maille


70

A

C

E

Definition of Full Maille

‘Full maille’ constitutes a hauberk with maille hand-protection at the end of full

sleeves, a pair of chausses (of either type) and either a faceplate, nasal or open helm

worn with a ventail (for open helms this must cover the mouth to under the nose).

All members wearing ‘full armour’ on the field should accompany their equipment

with a surcoat to distinguish their level of armour.

All measurements for maille below are given as the garment hangs belted.

Maille Corselet A mailleshirt featuring short sleeves (at least the mid-upper-arm) and a

short, unsplit hem (A-B). These mailleshirts can be worn with or without

an integrated coif, with or without a dropped square or tongue ventail

(more desired for T3 and above members).

When worn without an integrated coif they must be worn with an

arming cap and helm.

Maille Haubergion A mailleshirt comprising mid-length sleeves (at least to the

elbow) and a mid-length hem (B-C). When the hem is short

(thighs) the hem should ideally be unsplit- when hanging to

the C line the hem may be unsplit, front-split or split at the

sides (side-vented).

These mailleshirts must feature an integrated coif

with/without a dropped square or tongue ventail.

Early Hauberk A mailleshirt comprising of a long hem (E- around 2-3” below the knee)

but only mid-length sleeves (between the elbow or mid-forearm)- similar in form to a

Haubergion but with longer skirts, front split to allow riding, in the style of Norman

hauberks on the Bayeux Tapestry. These shirts must feature an integral coif.

Ideally the coif should feature either a ‘dropped square’ ventail (acceptable), or the

more modern tongue ventail (ideal).

B

D Knees


71

Maille Hauberk A mailleshirt comprising of long sleeves (to the wrist) and a medium hem (D-E

between the line of the knee or around 2-3” below) which should be split down the

front to allow riding (either a central or off-centre split). These may feature

integrated maille mufflers or Winchester hands.

These mailleshirts are the upper rank of mailleshirts and can feature moderate

decoration at the hem and sleeves. These must feature an integral coif, ideally with a

‘tongue’ ventail. When worn with mufflers, a ventailed coif and nasal or faceplate

helm and chausses these shirts are considered ‘full maille’.

Late Hauberk A mailleshirt specifically designed to be worn in conjunction with maille hose,

comprising an integral, tongue-ventailed coif, a mid-length hem (C-D- on the line of

the knee or 2-3” above it) and close-fitting full-length sleeves terminating in hand

protection (Winchester hands or maille mufflers).

These mailleshirts should feature a short split at the front and may also be split at

the back, but the split must not rise above the mid-thigh. These mailleshirts are the

newest technology of their day and may feature extensive decoration around the

hem. When worn with maille hose and a helm these shirts count as ‘full maille’.


72

Gloves Gloves/Mufflers R I A U

Bowman (NCA) C X

Levy Archer (A) C C LW X

Garrison Archer (A) C C L.W X

Mercenary Archer (A) C P/C L.W M

Crossbow Serjeant (A) C P/C LW X

Captain (A) C P/C X

Levy C C L.W X

Militia C P/C L.W M

Serviens C P LW M

Serjeant C P X

Squire C P M X

Knight C M X

Baron M M X

C-Combat gloves/ /L.W-Leather or Woollen Mufflers/ P-

Padded Mufflers/ M-Maille Mufflers/X-All other gloves

Gloves in General Members are encouraged to have hand protection that matches the armour at their

wrist (apart from Knights wearing hauberks with padded mufflers as per the tabled

kit impressions). Therefore, if a member is wearing a Full Gambeson they should

seek to wear padded mufflers that at least appear integrated.

Mufflers integrated into the body armour (padded and maille) are heavily

encouraged.

As of the 2017 season combat gloves are allowable in lieu of matching hand

protection- these should be worn with the cuffs under the gambeson sleeves, to make

them unobtrusive.

General Combat Gloves Combat gloves are a minimum requirement of members taking part in combat. The

Constabulary will bar members without at least combat gloves from combat.

Any thick brown leather gloves can count as ‘combat gloves- ideally they should

additionally feature concealed protection (padding/inserts) so that they offer discreet

but genuine protection for the hands. Improvised combat gloves must be presented

to the Constabulary to ensure real protective value.


73

Leather/Woollen Mufflers Leather or woollen mufflers may be made up of a single ‘bag’ for the hand and an

opposed thumb, or with a separate index finger or an equal two-finger split. These

must be faced or made in leather or wool, and in the case of wool, be worn with a

matching tunic to make them unobtrusive. Tram-line marks for padding should be

avoided as these garments are meant to give the appearance of simple working

gloves worn in combat. Woollen mufflers may feature leather palms.

Padded Mufflers May be made up of a single ‘bag’ for the hand and an opposed thumb, or with a

separate index finger or an equal two-finger split. These may be made from

gamboised linen with leather palms, or gamboised linen with doubled linen palms.

Maille Mufflers/Winchester Hands Maille mufflers must only be worn by members wearing full maille sleeves into

which they are integrated; any members wishing to wear safety gloves whose maille

does not reach the wrist should instead wear padded mufflers. Maille mufflers may

be made up of a single ‘bag’ for the hand and an opposed thumb, or with a separate

index finger or an equal two-finger split. These may be made entirely from leather,

from gamboised linen with leather palms, or gamboised linen with doubled linen

palms.

Winchester Hands may also be worn as an integral part of the hauberk- these are

flaps of maille extending from the wrists of the hauberk down over the back of

leather gloves or padded mufflers and secured in place with a strap or thonging. All

gloves should be of a suitable colour of leather, either beige-tan or brown for

preference, and be well-maintained and kept neat and presentable as all items of

wargear represent a mark of status.


74

Leg Armour Chausses/Cuisses R I A U

Bowman (NCA) W X

Levy Archer (A) W X

Garrison Archer (A) W X

Mercenary Archer

(A)

W X

Crossbow Serjeant

(A)

W X

Captain (A) W X

Levy W X

Militia W X

Serviens W X

Serjeant E/W X

Squire E X

Knight See ‘Knight’ Table

Baron M M P H

W- Winningas/ H- Half Chausse/ M- Maille

Hose/ E- Either Chausses / P- Padded Cuisses/

All (Other) Leg Armour- X

Fabric Leg Armour As with all fabric armour and clothing in Normannis, these items should be

constructed from either period appropriate heavy wool (winningas) or a heavy linen

(cuisses).

Winningas Winningas were not technically armour in period- but seem instead seem to have

been worn as ‘agricultural safety equipment’- worn around the lower leg to prevent

minor cuts from thorns and reaping tools, as well as to protect the fabric of the lower

hose. In Normannis they are worn by those with no access to leg armour as there are

some depictions of them being worn in combat. A technical description of their

construction is given in the Clothing Regulations.

Padded Cuisses Padded cuisses are tubes of gamboised fabric worn from the waist to the knee and

suspended from the belt. These should taper with the leg, and may feature a circle of

thick leather (a poleyn) stitched over the knee. These items should conform to the

padded armour guidelines and when worn with a coloured gambeson they should be

dyed to match.


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Chausses (Maille Leg Armour) Chausses are maille protection for the leg. They may either be made backed onto

leather, or laced on to the leg leaving the back of the leg exposed. Chausses in

Normannis fall into two broad categories- full maille hose and half-chausses. Whilst

the latter are still acceptable in the society they are increasingly discouraged in

comparison to maille hose, which have far more historical evidence.

Both garments must be constructed of standard maille pattern and links and like all

wargear, must be well-maintained and presented. Both forms of chausses should fit

closely to the leg and both forms should ideally feature a flap or integrated foot.

Where the regulations state ‘chausses’ either sort may be worn- where a specific type

is given, it refers only to that type of chausse. These items are a requirement of full

maille, and maille hose must be worn by members wearing a Late Hauberk.

Maille Hose A ‘full leg’ construction of chausse, which covers above the knee up to the lower

thigh with maille armour. These may be made as complete maille ‘tubes’ hung from

a suspension belt, feature leather ‘tops’ for a more comfortable fit, or be constructed

as leather hosen with strips of maille secured to the front of the leg with lacing.

Period images heavily suggest that the maille was tightly laced to the leg below the

knee, and usually feature some form of ankle and knee lacing- this is encouraged as

both a practical method of securing a better fit as well as a period practise.

Maille hose may or may not include a foot (though this is highly encouraged)- this

can be a complete ‘sock’ constructed from maille and leather, or a be a simple flap

that covers the top of the foot (akin to a Winchester muffler)- though this should be

well secured with straps or lacing.

Half Chausses Half-chausses are shorter leg protection that resemble maille ‘greaves’; they feature a

strip of maille attached to a leather back and laced to the front of the shin from the

knee to the ankle- or to the tip of the foot. Members wearing maille ‘hose’ may wear a

pair of half-chausses over their shins at the lowest extent (as per the Winchester

Psalter)- though only for later-period events and with permission from the

Constabulary.


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Helms & Arming Caps Helms & Arming Caps R I A U

Bowman (NCA) - A X

Levy Archer (A) S/N A X

Garrison Archer (A) A S/N - X

Mercenary Archer (A) S N O X

Crossbow Serjeant (A) O N - X

Captain (A) O N E X

Levy S/N A

Militia S S/N A X

Serviens S N O X

Serjeant O N E X

Squire O N E X

Knight N See ‘Knight’ Table

Baron N F E X

A-Arming Cap/S-Skullcap Helm/N-Nasal Helm/E-

Expanded Nasal/O-Open Helm/F-Faceplate

Helm/X-All Other Helms

Arming Caps Arming caps are, largely, worn under other head armour- though some of the earlier

tiers may wear them as head protection when no other armour is worn. Arming caps

should take the same design as a linen coif (see the Clothing Regulations) , covering

from the forehead to the nape of the neck and tying beneath the chin. The stitching

lines should run from the nape of the neck to the forehead (straight on the centre

panels and curved on the panels at the side of the head).

Arming caps are subject to the same rules and regulations governing gambesons

(including the thickness, construction and at which they may be coloured).

Helmets

All helms must be made primarily of ferrous steel, and be of a substantiated 12th –

early 13th century design - if in doubt, consult the helmet guides below. Helms may

be painted in elements, or in their entirety, but this must be done with suitable period

paints and should be in the group or owner’s heraldic colours. Helms should not

feature obvious spinning marks - any helm of spun construction should be scoured or

beaten until the spinning marks have been removed, or painted in such a manner

that the spinning marks are no longer visible, and concealed on the inside with

leather/fabric lining. Only helms belonging to members of the Baron rank should

have applied metallic decoration - and this should be in close consultation with the

High Constable to assure authenticity.


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Helmets in the 2018 Season

Due to the success of the faceplate helmet guide included in the previous edition of

the regulations, and the availability of custom helmet designs (and members having

an almost ‘blank canvas’ when ordering) the non-faceplate helmet section of the

regulations has been redesigned. Some of this reflects further research, and some of

this is to aid clarity and conciseness within the section.

Helmet domes and fittings have been broken down into families (as in the faceplate

section) and an accompanying grid lists the ideal tier bracket for each form of

helmet.

It is worth noting that B1 and D1 helmets are considered ‘suitable for all’ throughout

Normannis- and represent the most ideal helmets from period sources (as well as the

most sensible long-term investment!)

Any helmets in circulation prior to the 2018 season (especially custom expanded

nasals) are still allowable- this guide is designed more to make small course

corrections going forward for future purchases and to improve the quality and

authenticity of helmets within the society.

Decorations on Helmets

In period, the main forms of helmet decoration were limited to the brow-band (the

band along the bottom of the helmet’s edge) in terms of incised or decorative work-

and the remaining decoration is overwhelmingly painted.

Helmets may be blackened or blued as long as they are either done so authentically

or in a manner that produces an even period finish.

Applied metalwork to the domes of the helmet seems to be in evidence for the very

rich (T8-T9) though this is extremely rare- and should only be incorporated into a

helmet after discussion with the constabulary.

Some helmets are depicted as gold in colour in some manuscripts, and this does

match period sources claiming some helmets were, indeed, gilded. Within the society

members of T8-9 may acquire a helmet made of brass alloy to simulate a gilded

‘golden’ helmet, but it must be of proven and testable quality before being allowed

into combat that involves headshots.


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Nasal and ‘Cap’ Helms

Descriptions of Fixtures-

1- Plain Nasal

A plain nasal is a simple strip of iron or steel attached to the helmet bowl, either

formed as one piece, or rivetted to a brow attached around the bottom rim of the

helmet. These nasals may be slightly shaped (though those that flare significantly or

expand to a T-bar are considered ‘2’). Typically the nasals of helmets feature some

form of convex structure to make them harder to bend or break. For members T5 or

higher, these nasals may be formed of brass alloy.

2_- Expanded Nasal

A nasal projection as described above that then spreads further across the face- either

flaring or spreading a T-bar shape. As with plain nasals they may either be attached

to a brow-piece or formed as part of the helmet itself. For members T5 or higher,

these nasals may be formed of brass alloy.

3- Proto-Faceplate

These projections closely follow the development of the expanded nasal- spreading

still further to cover most of the lower face and curving around the jaw and almost

reaching back to the helmet’s brim. Typically these proto-faceplate helmets closely

Dome Plain 1 2 3 4

A (Banded dome)

T1-2 T1-4 N/A N/A N/A

B (Plain dome)

T1-9 T1-9 N/A N/A T6-9

C (Spangen peak)

N/A T1-2 N/A N/A N/A

D (Plain peak)

T1-3 T1-9 T4-7 T5-7 N/A

E (Phrygian/fluted

peak)

T3-9 T3-9 T4-7 N/A N/A

F (High domes)

T5-9 T5-9 T5-9 T5-7 T5-9

G (Cylinder ‘pots’)

N/A T6-9 N/A N/A T6-9


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follow the aesthetic depicted. For members T5 or higher, these projectionss may be

formed of brass alloy.

4- Jaw-frame

A band passing under the chin and around the jaw, attached at the helmet’s brim.

These helmets are theorised to have developed to allow an open face but prevent a

lateral blow breaking the jaw or smashing the face. The jaw piece itself can be

relatively broad (around 3 inches wide) and in some depictions, appears to have been

attached to the brim by a method that could be unhooked (such as a pinned-hinge) to

facilitate its removal. The jaw piece typically appears to be of the same metal as the

helmet (ferrous), though in highly decorative cases it could be formed of brass alloy.

Forms of Helmets-

Skullcap

(A, B and D without additional fixtures)

These helmets were worn from the Carolingian period right through until the end of

the Medieval era. In Normannis’ period of interest they were depicted worn by poorer

infantry and often by archers (for whom a wider field of vision would be idea).

By the 12th century the concept of a ‘segmented’ helmet (made in panels) was

becoming increasingly obsolete in favour of raising a single, glancing dome surface-

so whilst ‘A’ is an acceptable form helmet, ‘B’ would find more favour in period).

‘Open’ Helm

(B, E, F without additional fixtures, B4. F4, G4)

Open helms refer to helmets with no fixtures over the face worn by typically ‘richer’

soldiers. There is obviously crossover (B was somewhat universal in design) though

most ‘knightly’ open helms are shown with Phrygian points, fluting or other

reinforcement or design features. These helmets were worn for lighter combat or by

combatants willing to sacrifice protection for a greater field of vision- and were more

common in Southern Europe than in England (where nasals predominated).

Within the sub-grouping of ‘open helm’ is included those helmets that feature an

apparent solid chin-strap (B4, F4, G4) which are depicted in late 12th century sources.

These are now being allowed for upper-tier members as a form of ‘open helm’-

however, their use is planned to be deliberately limited, given their relative scarcity

in period sources.


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Nasal Helm

(A-G with a ‘1’ Nasal)

These helmets predominated Normannis’ period of interest, and were worn by the

poorest and the richest soldiers alike. They balanced a good field of visibility with a

partial face protection, and are far more commonly depicted than any other form of

helmet. The nasal can be forged in one piece with the dome/skull, or attached as part

of a brow-band running around the bottom edge of the helmet. Glancing domes were

the preferred design of the period, though some ‘banded’ helmets are shown which

could either be reinforcement banding of Spangen construction. A new style of

helmet that was spreading in the period was the ‘squat dome’, which is shown far

more frequently in late 12th century art, and seems to have been the zenith design

combining optimal glancing and tensile strength characteristics (F).

Expanded Nasal

(D2, E2, F2, D3, F3)

These helmets appear around the latter half of the 12th century, and represent the

slow development of more widely-covering face protection. The nasals in the chart

are broken down into the two main types, the ‘wider’ nasals (either shovel-shaped or

T-bar) and the proto-faceplate (with a wide crescent-like guard for the face). These

nasals were distinct from faceplates in that the nasal bar was the only attachment to

the dome, and they seem to have served to offer those without the full means to

acquire the newer faceplate helmets a half-way compromise.

As of the 2018 season these helmets have a distinct reduction in emphasis due to the

discrepancy between their Normannis and period prevalence- and any member

seeking to acquire a ‘3’ type nasal should consult the constabulary first.

Faceplate Helms Extant images of faceplated helms show a great variety of designs in the 12th-13th century,

with distinct regional variations and fashions. The below chart gives combinations that

match extant examples or that match the typical trends- as such not all faceplated helms

must adhere to these suggested designs, but equally members should be very careful in their

research before straying from the combinations listed below.


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Dome Faceplate Eyes Venting

Anglo-German Squat A,B,E I, II, III

Shield A,B I, II, III

Mediterranean Squat C, D, E II, III, IV

Ovoid C, D, E I, II, III, IV

Southern European Squat A,B,E I, II, III

Ovoid C,D,E II, III, IV

Shield A,B I, II, III

Documents

Historia Normannis High Constable Wargear & Combat …Helms & Arming Caps • Nasal and ‘Cap’ Helms ... T5- Squire The term Squire is either used to mean a ‘knight in waiting’