High Wall Heat Pumps Module 5a Installation & Handover · Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover _____ Rinnai Best Practice Guide High Wall Heat Pumps Module 5a – Installation

Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover

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Rinnai Best Practice Guide

High Wall Heat Pumps

Module 5a – Installation & Handover


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Acknowledgement: Rinnai NZ acknowledges the Energy Efficiency and Conservation Authority (EECA) for permission to reproduce content from its publication: “Good Practice Guide Heat Pump Installation”. The granting of permission to reproduce material provided by EECA in no way constitutes an endorsement of Rinnai Heat Pumps by EECA

Rinnai Learning

©Copyright Rinnai New Zealand Document title: Rinnai Heat Pumps: Module 5a Installation & Handover Issue date: 11 November 2020 Version Date: n/a Date printed: 12/11/2020 12:13 PM


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Best practice guide to Rinnai High Wall Heat Pump installation

Introduction _______________________________________________________________ 7

Installation ________________________________________________________________ 9

Toolkit _______________________________________________________________________ 10

Open and inspect the boxes: _____________________________________________________ 10

Installing the units _____________________________________________________________ 12

Building work ____________________________________________________________ 18

Installing pipework ________________________________________________________ 20

Pipework installation __________________________________________________________ 21

Pipework pre-installation in new buildings _________________________________________ 30

Self-Check #1: Piping _______________________________________________________ 33

Heat pump installation _____________________________________________________ 36

Pre-installation checklist _______________________________________________________ 36

Installing the indoor unit _______________________________________________________ 37

Installing the outdoor unit _______________________________________________________ 40

Connecting piping to indoor and outdoor units ______________________________________ 45

Connecting piping to indoor and outdoor units ______________________________________ 48

Leak/pressure test _____________________________________________________________ 51

Evacuation of the system ________________________________________________________ 53

During evacuation, complete the following: _________________________________________ 56

Self-Check #2: Installation ___________________________________________________ 58

Refrigerants ______________________________________________________________ 62

Introduction __________________________________________________________________ 62

Refrigerant charging ___________________________________________________________ 63

Labelling as record of service _____________________________________________________ 64

Electrical requirements _____________________________________________________ 65

Installing electrical wiring _______________________________________________________ 65

Outdoor unit connections _______________________________________________________ 65

Nameplate ___________________________________________________________________ 67

Testing, commissioning and customer operating instructions _______________________ 68

Pre-commissioning checks _______________________________________________________ 68

Electrical checks ______________________________________________________________ 68


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Prepare the remote control _____________________________________________________ 69

Testing the new system ________________________________________________________ 69

Instructions to the owner _______________________________________________________ 70

Checklist for using a heat pump efficiently ________________________________________ 70

Quality assurance checklist ______________________________________________________ 71

Servicing and maintenance __________________________________________________ 74

Owner maintenance ___________________________________________________________ 74

Service Technician _____________________________________________________________ 75

Module 5 – Part B __________________________________________________________ 77

Module assessment ________________________________________________________ 78

Your next module __________________________________________________________ 78

Feedback _________________________________________________________________ 78

Appendix A: Important differences for Rinnai Heat Pumps ________________________ 79

Appendix B: Making compression joints _______________________________________ 80


Page 7 of 80

Introduction

This module provides an overview of heat pumps, in particular High Wall Split

Systems and details of the Rinnai models.

Who should complete this module?

All staff of Rinnai Heat Pump Dealers or those companies wishing to be

accredited, who:

• Sell

• Design & specify

• Install

Heat Pump Accreditation programme.

This theory module supports the accreditation framework for a Salesperson,

Specifier or installer.

*depending on need to handle refrigerant

This module is in two parts:

A. This background knowledge base on Installation & Handover

B. A Q Series Installation video. (yet to be released)

Both have separate final assessments which are part of the accreditation

process. There’s detail at the end of this module.

Reference material:

You will need access to:

• Q Series Brochure

• Q Series Installation Manual:

• Q Series Operation Manual

• Q Series WIFI Operation Manual

These can be viewed or downloaded from here

Module 1:

The Rinnai Brand

Module 2:

Introduction to Heat Pumps

Module 3:

Design & Specifying

Module 5:5A

Installation & Handover(Knowledge)

5B

Installation video

Module 4:

Sales Skills

Module 6:

Installation & Handover(1-day skills course)

Module 7*:

Approved Fillers Compliance Certificate

(1-day skills course)

https://rinnai.co.nz/Product/328/q-series-high-wall-heat-pumps#technical


Page 8 of 80

Assessment

Creating great value for the customer is derived from two key parts:

1. Excellent product

2. A high standard of advice, specifying and installation of Heat Pumps.

To achieve (2) not only do we need a valid and robust accreditation process, we

(Rinnai) needs to know that you know – The specialist. Assessment is a key part

to ensuring that Rinnai and those we partner with, deliver great customer

experiences.

You will engage in assessment at two levels:

1. Self-checks

These are completed at the end of subjects and are for you to check that

you have understood the important information. The results, even if

completed on-line, are not recorded and we will never know if you finish

the self-checks!

2. Final assessment

At the end of each module you will need to complete the assessment on-

line inside our TradeSmart Learning portal. These results are tracked and

form part of the accreditation process.

The final assessment is easy! Why? It’s simple, the final assessment

questions are taken from the specific things covered in the self-checks.

Meaning that if you completed all the self-checks correctly that you should

fly through the final assessment. Easy As!

Important

This module has 2 self-checks on pages 32 & 53 and a separate final assessment for

this module and the Installation video.


Page 9 of 80

Installation

Important note about the context of this module.

This module on Installation & Handover gives you the underpinning knowledge for those new to installing Heat Pumps to prepare you for the 1-day practical workshop facilitated by Manukau Institute of Technology (MIT). Completion of this module is a pre-requisite to attending the MIT workshop. Completion of this module (#5) does not qualify or accredit you to install a Rinnai High Wall Heat Pump.

Important note about electrical wiring

This module and the Installation booklet has information on 230V wiring and connections. Any person performing electrical work must be a registered electrician. Plumbers and Gasfitters that hold an Associated Trades Electrical Licence and are registered with the EWRB cannot perform electrical work related to Heat Pumps as this is outside the scope or the Associated Trades licence. The inclusion of electrical related questions in self-checks or the final assessment does not imply that electrical work can be carried out without the necessary qualification.

Important note about handling refrigerant

Rinnai Heat Pumps are supplied pre-charged with enough refrigerant for up to 10 m of piping. Where an installer

1. needs to add refrigerant for longer lengths

2. evacuates refrigerant from an old system, or a system being repaired

3. wishes to purchase refrigerant they will need a current “Approved Fillers Compliance Certificate”


Page 10 of 80

Toolkit

Installers will need the following equipment and materials:

Equipment

• Brazing equipment

• Set of standard hand tools

• Pipe benders - Always use for pipes greater than 3/8" (9.5 mm)

• De-burring tool

• Swaging set / Expander tool

• R410/R32 designed Flaring tool Kit

• Wrenches

• 5 mm Allen / hex key

• Torque wrenches

• Pipe cutters

• Digital thermometer

• Oxygen free nitrogen gas cylinder with pressure gauge and manifold valve and

flexible clear hose

• Leak testing solution (e.g. Big Blue)

• Electronic leak tester suitable for R32 gas

• Vacuum pump with backflow prevention device

• Electronic scales Typically 50 kg with 5 or 10 gram resolution

• Manifold & gauge set and hoses suitable for R32 gas. And optional Digital vacuum gauge if analogue gauges used.

• Hose adaptors if required

• Refrigerant specific valve core removal tool

• Tape measure

• Compression or locked-ring jointing tool

• Refrigerant Recovery Machine compatible with R32 Refrigerant*

• Recovery cylinder*

• Charge hose and connector

• Stud finder

• Safety glasses, gloves, ear protection, safety boots, hard hats and other PPE

*only if holding a current Fillers Cert?

Materials

• Copper pipe (Soft drawn, twin-insulated, dehydrated Pair Coil)

• Pipe protection

• 80 mm Plastic Ducting and Compatible Fittings

• Electrical cable - 4 & 5 core

• POE Oil for flared joints

• Galvanised mild steel straps 120 x 25 x 0.5 mm

• Galvanised pipe brackets 65 mm diameter

• Galvanised nails 30 mm

• Condensate drainage pipe, either smooth, hard PVC pipe (best practice option) or flexible, ribbed pipe

• PVC adhesive tape

• Electrical conduit

• R32 cylinder*

*(if holding an Approved Fillers Compliance Certificate)

Open and inspect the boxes:


Page 11 of 80

Q Series Heat Pumps are dispatched in two large cartons. Immediately upon

receipt the two boxes must be checked for damage.

In the unlikely event of external damage:

1. do not sign for the item/s and ask the delivery contractor to return the boxes to Rinnai.

2. advise Rinnai Customer Services immediately of your actions quoting the sales order number. Call 0800 746 624.

If there’s no external damage you should endorse the packing slip noting that

internal contents are yet to be checked. (if the driver requires a signature then

they can wait while the boxes are unpacked and inspected)

Damage is not always immediately evident, so you must open the boxes as soon

as possible and check:

1. The condition of items

2. That all components are included

If anything is missing or damaged, you must take

photos and notify Rinnai Customer Services. Call

0800 746 624.

Claims for missing components or damage are

unlikely to be considered if notified more than 24

hrs after delivery.

A list of carton contents is on page 7 of the Installation Manual & is summarised

below.

Note: the Wi-Fi User’s Manual is not included and will need to be downloaded from the Rinnai

www.

Carton 1 1 x indoor unit 1 x remote controller 1 x remote control wall bracket 2 x AAA batteries 1 x indoor unit support bracket 1 x condensate drainpipe 1 x Operations manual 1 x Installation manual 1 x Energy label

Carton 2 1 x outdoor unit 4 x rubber vibration dampers 1 x condensate drain fitting 2 x flare nuts – small 2 x flare nuts – large 1 x plastic flange 1 x fabric tape 1 x putty


Page 12 of 80

Installing the units (this segment is a refresher on content in Module 3: Design & Specifying)

Correct location of both outdoor and indoor units is essential for optimum

performance. Many problems with poorly performing heat pumps are due to poor

location of units.

Outdoor units

Locate outdoor units: (ODU)

• to allow unimpeded air flow around the unit (to avoid the creation of a

microclimate that reduces heat pump performance and efficiency)

• in accordance with Rinnai

Installation instructions for

distances to obstructions as

follows.

o 100 mm to the wall

o 1000 mm between air outlet

and the nearest wall

o 600 mm above the unit

o 300 mm to other faces

• In addition to the installation instructions, it is recommended to mount the

unit on purpose built mounting rails. This is to secure the unit against

movement and to allow room for the condensate drain fitting to be

installed and maintained easily. The gap under the ODU must be at least

80 mm

• If the unit cannot be mounted securely on a flat surface e.g. where it is in a

garden or partly over a path etc, then a sturdy pad must be provided. This

can be:

o Pavers: a minimum of 40 mm thick

o Purpose built concrete slab. A precast slab should be 50 mm or

greater with a thickened edge

o Polyslab® (see accessories section)

• to minimise refrigerant pipe run lengths and bends

• to give minimum pipe runs in accordance with Rinnai Installation

instructions of 2 metres

• where condensate can easily be drained away

• to allow access for service (minimum 300 mm)


Page 13 of 80

• where any blockage (such as from leaves or snow) is quickly seen and

can be cleared away

• to be protected from the sea spray in

coastal areas, sheltered from strong wind

• where condensate can be appropriately

drained away condensation is usually

produced during heating and must be able to

be drained safely.

• in a well-ventilated area, and at a safe

distance from any gas sources or appliances:

o 1.5 m clearance from an exchange

LPG bottle (i.e. gas cylinders that

get swapped and refilled offsite).

o 3.5 m clearance from an in-situ fill

LPG bottle (i.e. gas cylinders that

get refilled by tanker onsite)

o 0.5 m clearance from a gas water

heater e.g. Rinnai Infinity or gas

stored cylinder

o Within space 0.5 m above from any

cylinder valve, extending 1.5 m

laterally at the base of the cylinder.

NOTES:

• DO NOT locate ODU where noise can cause a disturbance to home

occupants or to neighbours

• DO NOT locate ODU in the attic or under a deck, or any location that may

impede airflow, only install where there is ample space and clearance

• DO NOT locate ODU so that multiple units are competing against each

other for air flow

• DO NOT locate where the air outlet is directed to where people pass, such

as across an accessway or path

• DO NOT locate the outdoor unit on a balcony or deck that is more than 1

m above a surface below in a way that facilitates climbing over the

balustrades or railings. Any screen around the outdoor unit must not

facilitate climbing and must not include toe holes.


Page 14 of 80

Avoid noise disturbance

Locate the ODU where noise from the unit cannot transmit to and disturb the

home occupant or adjacent properties. Do not install the outdoor unit under or

close to bedroom windows. Comply with council bylaws regarding permitted

noise levels at the property boundary.

There are several ways to reduce sound transmission:

• Locate the unit where a fence

or solid barrier can block

sound so that the line of sight

between source and receiver

is blocked

• At the same time avoid

reflected sound transmission

– consider the reverberation

effects of lightweight materials

such as corrugated iron

fencing

• When mounting on wall brackets, mount the unit on isolation mounting

blocks or pads to absorb vibration. Rinnai ODU’s are supplied with 4

rubber vibration dampers

• Ensure the owner is aware of the need to carry out regular maintenance to

have worn bearings or other noisy parts replaced.

• Refer to Rinnai mounting instructions for recommended clearances to

ensure airflow around the unit.

Accessories

These 3rd party accessories are available

ODU enclosures

These can be helpful in making the

system more aesthetically appealing.

However, they must not impede the

units performance and cause any

issues which may initiate a warranty

claim to be considered.

An ODU enclosure


Page 15 of 80

Wall brackets:

Mounting rails

Pad for ODU

The outdoor unit may require a purpose built pad

(see page 18)

An alternative to a concrete slab or pavers is a

Polyslab®

These cost around $45 and there are many NZ suppliers, this is just one:

https://www.hamer.co.nz/inventory/product/1007/polyslab-ac-equipment-bases

Wall brackets for brick / masonry

Wall brackets for timber walls where the horizontal bar can align to studs

Welded wall brackets

Polyslab®. The middle size is ideal for the ODU

Polyslab® in use

Mounting rails

https://www.hamer.co.nz/inventory/product/1007/polyslab-ac-equipment-bases


Page 16 of 80

Indoor units

Locate indoor units:

• on an external wall if possible

• to avoid directing airflow onto seating locations or electronic equipment

• to direct airflow to the coldest point in the room (but not towards a window)

• appropriately for room layout and airflow patterns

• in accordance with Rinnai's recommendations for minimum clearances –

in the diagram on the right. Clearance above the unit and to both sides

are critical.

o 150 mm minimum to ceiling

o 150 mm minimum to each

side

o 1000 mm in front

o The downwards clearance

should be as reasonable as

possible to enable the unit to

function correctly and will be

in the range of 1800 mm*.

• to minimise refrigerant pipe run lengths and bends

• so that the condensate drainage pipe can drain to outside without the

need for a condensate pump.

*for ceiling heights of 2.4 m

Use of condensate pumps

Condensate pumps (an example on the right) may be

required where the condensate needs to be lifted from

the location of the IDU for any reason. While it is

better to avoid their use due to additional complexity,

they are often required where heat pumps are

mounted on internal walls or in basements. Including

a condensate pump in an install will increase the cost

of the installation.


Page 17 of 80

NOTES:

• DO NOT locate IDU in a tight corner or space where airflow can short

circuit

• DO NOT locate IDU behind a grille

• DO NOT locate IDU so it directs air to a primary source of heat gain or

loss, such as directly on to windows

• DO NOT locate IDU where there may be any steam

• DO NOT locate IDU within a kitchen or near an automatic insect repellent

dispenser

• DO NOT locate IDU above or close to any heat source, including electrical

appliances, which could affect the performance or act as an ignition point.


Page 18 of 80

Building work

New building

The best time to install pipework and cables in a

new building is when it is still under construction.

Co-ordinate with the other trades and plan the

layout and location of the system early in the

building design stage so that penetrations through

the building envelope can be made before the

cladding is installed.

• Note that the penetration through the wall

underlay has not incorporated a sleeve and

has not yet been taped off with flexible flashing

tape.

• Protect pipework and cables from being

damaged by other trades. Sleeving or plastic

inserts can be used to prevent pipes from

being kinked.

Building Code acceptable solution E2/AS1 gives guidance on making penetrations

through the wall cladding and wall underlay – a copy is available for download from

the www.building.govt.nz website.

If you make the penetration through the wall cladding system, then you are

responsible for the weathertight performance of the penetration made. You will be

liable for any non-performance due to your work.

Any drilling, notching or cutting of load-bearing and support walls to fit pipes must

be within the limits specified by NZS 3604:2011 Timber framed buildings. outlines

the maximum permitted allowances for drilling and notching a top plate may be

required.

Pre-install pipework before building claddings

are installed

http://www.building.govt.nz/


Page 19 of 80

NOTE: Notches in studs to be spaced at a min. of 600 mm apart.

Existing building

When installing units into an existing building:

• Identify the location of existing pipework, studs and cables before drilling holes or making penetrations in the building.

• Ensure any drilling, notching or cutting of load-bearing and support walls to fit pipes is within the limits specified by NZS 3604:2011 Timber framed buildings shown in the two diagrams above.


Page 20 of 80

Installing pipework

Introduction:

Except in new builds, pipework is installed after the internal unit is

fixed to the wall and the outdoor unit placed into position. These

steps are covered on pages 36 – 48.

This next section covers generic information on piping and generic

skills in handling pipework.

Important:

There are some differences to the installation parameters of the Q Series Heat

Pump. These are:

• The minimum pipe run is 2 m. Some manufacturers have shorter

lengths and many are longer.

• For the Rinnai 3.5 & 5 kW models the Pair Coil gas pipe OD are

different to many models in NZ. Refer to Appendix A

This information can also be downloaded from here:

https://rinnaitraining.co.nz/HP/QDifferences200525.pdf

Pipework

Good pipework gives a safe, efficient and reliable installation necessary for the heat

pump system to perform properly. Too many joints, bends and long lengths can

increase the risk of leaks and reduce efficiency, as it requires more energy for the

compressor to pump the refrigerant around the system.

Most system failures occur due to poor workmanship of pipework installation. To

reduce the likelihood of problems:

• Pair Coil must be clean and moisture-free

• Only use pipe sizes recommended in the Rinnai Q Series instruction manual

• Note that gas pipe sizes are different for different heat pump models.

• Plan piping runs for the shortest possible length and minimum number of

bends to limit internal friction losses

• Insulate and protect all external pipework with UV rated plastic ducting (typically 80 mm)

• Slope pipes gently back towards the outdoor unit to allow any oil in the gas

pipe to drain back to the inlet of the compressor (some compressor oil gets

pushed into the pipeline in all heat pump systems, and oil return is

compromised it may cause premature failure of the compressor)

• Install pipelines to allow for expansion and contraction

• Pair Coil must be rated for R32 (high pressure) refrigerant



Page 21 of 80

Pipework installation

Good-quality pipework involves the following steps:

1. Selecting suitable pipework and jointing

2. Ensuring pipework is clean

3. Making bends properly

4. Creating flared joints properly

5. Ensuring pipework is well-supported

6. Insulating refrigerant pipework

7. Positioning and connecting the condensate drainage pipe properly. Note on terminology:

In refrigeration the terms liquid and gas (or vapour) are used to describe the physical states of the refrigerant.

Types of pipework

Pair Coil

Pair Coil is twin piping used to connect the indoor and outdoor units.

Pair Coil is UV-rated twin-insulated and dehydrated pipe, which is easier to install in trunking and in ceiling spaces

The smaller pipe is the liquid pipe while the larger is the gas pipe.

Pair Coil is usually sold in 20 m lengths. For the Q Series, the liquid pipe size is the same across the models, however, note the 3 different sizes for the gas lines.

Details are on page 8 of the Q Series Installation Manual.

NOTE: Gas and liquid pipe sizes are different.

Twin-insulated and dehydrated pipe (Pair Coil)


Page 22 of 80

Types of jointing

There are two situations when jointing is needed:

1. When connecting Pair Coil to the indoor or outdoor units

These joints must be flared fittings as both the units are fitted with

male flared connections

2. When joining lengths of Pair Coil together

Ideally the pipe will be a continuous length between the indoor and

outdoor units, however joining is sometimes required. You can join

lengths of Pair Coil by brazing or compression (lock-ring) jointing.

Flared joints

These are used when joining the

pipework to the Outdoor Unit

(ODU) and the indoor unit

(IDU). A male flare fitting is

provided on both pipes on both

indoor and outdoor unit. Ensure

that the flares are made using an

R-32 compatible flaring tool and

following the procedure listed in

this section. All four flare joints are

to be leak tested as per the leak

testing section.

NOTE: If not done correctly, flared joints have a high risk of the refrigerant

leaking and should not be used for joining pipework together which would

often be inside a wall or under capping. For jointing Pair Coil together use

brazed or compression joints. Refer to Appendix B

Creating flared joints

Flared joints must be formed by an experienced installer, as the joints

have a high risk of the refrigerant leaking if not made correctly.

Flaring of joints is not a simple task and requires the correct tool for the

refrigerant gas being used and the pipe wall thickness.

Rinnai Q Series heat pumps use R32 or other high-pressure refrigerants

and require a specific flaring tool to cope with the refrigerant pressure and

the pipe thickness

Steps to creating flared joints are on the next page.

Female flared joints on Pair Coil


Page 23 of 80

Follow the correct steps to create a sound flared joint.

DO NOT use a saw blade to cut the pipe.

Cut pipe with tube cutters to give a cut

that is straight across and clean.

Use a sharp blade and cut slightly longer

than measured length.

Remove all burrs with a de-burr tool - point tubing downwards when doing this. Remove any metal filings that may have fallen into the pipe

Remember to remove the flare nut from

the unit and put it over the pipe end – it

is not possible to put it on after flaring

the pipe.

Insufficient tube protrusion could lead to

a joint that will come apart with vibration

and is more likely to leak.

Flare the end of the tube using the

correctly-sized flare tool and ensure

that the correct amount of pipe

protrudes.

Excess tube protrusion could stop the

flare connection sealing properly when

the nut is tightened.

1

2

3

4

5

6


Page 24 of 80

NOTE:

DO NOT mix polyolester oil and mineral-based oil DO NOT use leak lock or PTFE tape – these are not plumbing joints DO NOT cross thread the fittings, as you may damage them.

Apply oil to the back of the flared pipe

and the flare joint. Use oil compatible

with the refrigerant before connecting

pipes, i.e. use polyolester oil (POE).

Oil reduces the possibility of tearing

the flare when the nut is tightened.

Oil must not be allowed to

contaminate the refrigerant.

Hand-fasten the flare nut to connect the

pipes

Tighten the connection using two spanners to the torque specified in the Q Series

Installation Manual – page 13. Use a torque spanner to achieve the correct torque.

Torque against the second spanner (to secure the load while tightening). Never

tighten the connection just against the joint.

7

8

9

10

11

12


Page 25 of 80

Brazed connections

Brazed joints are the usual way to join two lengths of copper pipe and will be

required when complicated pipe runs are involved, and to extend pipe runs

longer that a single length of pair coil, or where there are offcuts that need to

be used up. One of the pipes should be swaged using a swaging tool (either

a drift or an expander tool of the appropriate size). This forms a socket that

the brazing material can fill to create a strong leak-free joint.

When brazing it is good practice to have a live purge of the copper pipe using

nitrogen to eliminate any carbon deposits inside the pipe. A flow rate of 8 l/s

is optimal.

Pipe joints behind the indoor unit and in wall spaces must be brazed,

Brazed joints must be leak tested prior to commissioning.

Compression connections

Compression Joints are an alternative to brazed joints. These can be used

where it is not practical or desirable to use a brazing torch in an

installation. Compression joints are leak free when

• the compression jointing method meets the pressure requirements of

the system and

• installation is completed exactly as per the manufacturer's installation

requirements.

All compression joints must be leak tested prior to commissioning of the

system.

Detailed steps to making compression connections are provided in

Appendix B.


Page 26 of 80

Maintaining cleanliness of pipework

Ensure that all pipework is clean and suitable for the system

• Holding the pipe opening facing down when deburring

• Removing metal filings from inside pipework after deburring.

• Always keeping pipe ends covered with caps, by clamping and taping.

Covering pipe ends prevents moisture, dirt or foreign matter getting into the pipes, particularly when pushing or pulling through wall cavities.

NOTE: Do not let uncapped pipe ends touch the ground

Making bends

Bend all copper pipes over 9.5 mm or 3/8" diameter with the correct-sized pipe

bender – handmade bends will kink and /or have a reduced internal pipe

dimension, which potentially voids the warranty.

When pre-insulated pipe is used:

• Split the insulation and cut away from around the pipe.

• Bend the pipe using the correct-sized bender.

• Replace the insulation and tape together using vinyl tape or insert a copper bend using brazed connections, then insulate.

Pipe opening facing down when cutting

Cover pipe ends

Hand Tube Bender (Courtesy Yellow Jacket)


Page 27 of 80

Ensuring pipework is well-supported

Well-supported pipes help ensure the durability and performance of the system

by:

• reducing the possibility of cracking or oil traps due to sagging

• eliminating vibration

• eliminating a liquid hammer effect or damage from fluid movement

• resulting in better fluid handling characteristics.

As good practice, fix copper tubing at the spacings given in the table below.

Tubing diameter (mm)

Maximum fixing spacing (m)

< 6.5 1.0

6.5 – 20 1.5

25 2.0

32 – 40 2.5

> 50 3.0 Source: Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling Code of Practice 2007 clause 5.18.

Insulating refrigerant pipework

• Ensure all refrigerant pipework is insulated to eliminate condensation and

maintain high efficiency of the heat pump system.

• Industry practice is to use a proprietary insulated pair coil, which is heat

resistant up to 100 °C.

Positioning and connecting the condensate drainage pipe

From the indoor unit

Position and connect the condensate drainage pipe from the indoor unit.

• Connect the drainage pipe to the drainage pipe outlet from the unit – if

there are two drainage outlets in the condensate tray (indoor unit), connect

the drainage pipe to the appropriate side, i.e. to suit the wall outlet

location, and insert a rubber bung into the other outlet.

• Wrap the indoor and through wall section of the drainage pipe in

polyurethane foam insulation.

• Use smooth, hard PVC-U drainage pipe if drainage pipe runs laterally –

flexible, ribbed drainage pipe can be used for vertical drainage.

• Provide sufficient fall for condensate to drain away.


Page 28 of 80

• Run the condensate hose beneath the refrigerant line when going through the

wall, to ensure a free flow of condensate.

• Connect sections of pipe with pipe solvent – where pipe sizes must be

stepped down, connect sections with silicone sealant internally, then tape

around join with vinyl tape.

• Run the indoor drainage pipe:

▪ to the outdoor unit and drain away to the same location as the outdoor

unit condensate

▪ outdoors to drain onto lawn or garden – discharge into the stormwater

system is permitted in some areas (do not discharge into a gully trap)

• Where pipe traps are recommended by the manufacturer to reduce

negative pressure, install in accordance with the manufacturer’s

specifications.

• Do not allow the condensate outlet pipe to be immersed in water, as this

can cause an air lock and prevent water drainage under gravity.

• Use mechanical connectors (jubilee clips) to connect the hoses

• Locate indoor units suitably to avoid the need for a condensate pump.

Where unavoidable, install a condensate pump in accordance with the

manufacturer’s specification. Advise the owner of the maintenance

requirements of the pump and that it may make noise. Failure to do so will

void any claim for water damage.

NOTES: DO NOT use flexible drainage piping inside internal walls (only on external walls in some circumstances) DO NOT use flexible ribbed drainage piping for lateral pipe runs, as water may sit in the ribs or low points may occur in the pipe DO NOT use electrical conduit as a drainage pipe - only PVC plumbing / condensate pipe.

From the outdoor unit

Discharge condensate:

• into a suitable drain connection

• onto a grassed or planted area

• into a stormwater drain (where permitted by local council regulations).

NOTE: DO NOT discharge where it can run over a footpath as it may become slippery or freeze in winter.


Page 29 of 80

Summary:

• Keep bends and length to a minimum to maximise efficiency

• Correct pipe size must be used - Refer to Rinnai technical specifications

• Design pipe runs for shortest lengths, but not less than the minimum pipe

run

• Rinnai High Wall Heat Pumps must have a minimum pipe run of 2 m

• Pipework must be insulated along the entire length

• UV protect pipework with UV rated capping

• Use pipes (Pair Coil) rated for R32 pressures


Page 30 of 80

Pipework pre-installation in new buildings

In a new building, install pipework before wall linings and claddings are put on.

Procedure

• Unroll and lay out pipe and connection cable to connect indoor and

outdoor units.

• Tape pipe and connection cable together with vinyl tape at 1-1.5 m

spacings.

• Establish the location and centre of the indoor unit.

• Establish the location of the outdoor unit.

• Run taped pipe/cable across the top of

the bottom truss chord/ceiling joist

between the unit locations.

• Fix with galvanised mild steel pipe

brackets.

Indoor unit location

o Notch the top plate and studs to a maximum depth of 25 mm (for

90 x 45 mm timber) or 19 mm (for 70 x 45 mm timber) to insert

pipe/cable.

o Insert pipe/cable into notch and fix galvanised mild steel strap over

to hold securely in position. Notching and drilling must not exceed

the limits given in NZS 3604: 2011.

Protect pipe against damage caused by other trades.

Run pipe/cable across truss chord/ceiling joist


Page 31 of 80

o Wedge the pipe cable end into the stud in readiness for connection

to the indoor unit – use a lightly-fixed and wedged nail that can

easily be removed to hold the pipe/cable flat for interior lining fixing.

o Braise pipe ends, braising in a Schrader valve into one end of each

pipe.

o Once brazed, pressurise pipework

with dry nitrogen. If the pipes get

damaged, the gas escapes, alerting

other tradespeople to the fact that

they have damaged the pipe. When

you return and find the gas is gone,

then you know pipes have been

damaged.

o For floor-mounted units on internal

walls:

• fix pipe/cable in notched dwangs

• drill holes and feed the pipes through

o Feed pipes through a hole in the building wrap to outside and seal

to weatherproof around pipe.

NOTE: DO NOT cut out more timber than necessary.


Page 32 of 80

Outdoor unit location

o Notch the top plate and studs sufficiently to insert pipe/cable. See

pages 18 & 19 for limits on notching and drilling framing.

o Insert pipe/connection cable and power cable (run from meter

board) into notches and fix galvanised mild steel strap over to hold

securely in position.

o Feed pipe / cables for connection to

outdoor unit through a hole cut in building

wrap Installing a sleeve is recommended.

o Seal pipes or sleeve with flexible flashing

tape to weatherproof around pipework and

cables.

o Crimp and tape pipe ends closed to keep

moisture and debris out.

o Leave pipe/cable neatly coiled and taped.

Note that the taping off has not been

completed in the

photos on the right, nor

has a sleeve been

used as shown on

page 37.


Page 33 of 80

Self-Check #1: Piping

Check your understanding of this module.

You will need access to the Q-Series Installation Manual to complete

this self-check.

# Question Your score

1 When creating a notch in the top plate and studs for timber that is 90 x 45 mm, what is the maximum depth allowed?

15 mm 20 mm 25 mm 40 mm

2 There are three (3) types of pipe joining used when installing a Heat pump. They are Brazed, Compression and Flared. It is vital that each type of joint is used in the correct part of the piping

True False

3 Which joint connection method is to be used to connect to a Rinnai outdoor unit to the Pair Coil?

Brazed

Compression

Flared

4 Which type of joining provides the best resistance to pressure, temperature and stress vibrations and is recommended as best practice when joints will be concealed.

Brazed

Compression

Flared

5 It is vital that when preparing, cutting or connecting pipework that it is kept clean inside.

Brazing causes oxidation and carbon build up and this is mitigated by:

• Keeping the pipework on a slope down towards the cut end

• Purging with dry nitrogen

• Purging with EOS


Page 34 of 80


6 When making a flare fitting on a pipe the edges of the cut end must have the both the inside and outside burrs removed. When is de-burring done?

• After the pipe is cut and before the flaring done

• After the flare is created.

7 What are the two (2) reasons why condensate should not be discharged onto a concrete footpath

• It can become slippery

• It can harm bird life

• After several year it can cause the concrete to crack

• In winter it can freeze causing a hazard

8 The maximum Pair Coil run between the IDU and ODU for the 7 kW model is:

• 10 m

• 20 m

• 25 m

• 30 m

• 40 m

9 Pipe benders must be used for bending all pipes over 9.5 mm or 3/8”. This is because bending by hand can cause an kink which creates a reduced internal dimension and can effect performance and void the warranty.

True False

10 Which type of oil must be applied to the back of the flared pipe and the flare joint?

• POE (Polyolester oil)

• OEP (Polyethylene extract)

• Tardus 101

11 What is the torque wrench setting when connecting the vapour pipe to the outdoor unit on the 5.2 kW unit?

18 Nm 42 Nm 55 Nm 75 Nm


Page 35 of 80


12 Units containing R32 refrigerant require a specific flaring tool to cope with the pressure of the refrigerant and the pipe thickness.

True False

13 Pipework pre-installed into buildings must have the ends brazed closed with a Schrader valve in one end and pressurised with dry nitrogen.

Why is the pre-installed pipework pressurised with Nitrogen? (select all that apply)

• If the pipes get damaged, the gas escapes, alerting other tradespeople to the fact that they have damaged the pipe.

• Dry Nitrogen is moisture free and safe.

• Pressurised pipework over time provides a much safer installation test in accordance with the Building Act

• When you return and find the gas is gone, then you know the pipes have a leak.

Check your answers……… https://rinnaitraining.co.nz/HP/M5aSC1Ans201112.pdf

https://rinnaitraining.co.nz/HP/M5aSC1Ans201112.pdf


Page 36 of 80

Heat pump installation

While completing this section it may be helpful to refer to the Installation Manual.

This section covers good-quality and safe installation of Rinnai indoor and outdoor

heat pump units, connecting the units to pipework, testing the system for

pressure/leaks and evacuation of the system (which must occur after pressure

testing).

Some general rules for installing heat pump units are:follow the instructions in the

Installation Manual

• use tools and equipment appropriate for the task and in a well-maintained

condition

• ensure components are compatible

• keep the entire system is clean, free of foreign debris and dry.

Pre-installation checklist

Before installing the heat pump units, check the following:

Unit components

Check that the unit is what was specified and that model numbers match.

• Remove the unit from the packaging and check that all components are supplied.

• Check for any damaged components.

• Ensure that installation and owner manuals are supplied.

Trade co-ordination

• Confirm on-site trade co-ordination between the installer, builder (for new

construction) and the electrician (only a registered electrician can hard wire the

heat pump units).

Site safety

• Follow the Health and Safety at Work Act 2017 safety requirements for a

building site. These should include the installer:

o holding a Site Safe passport

o holding an Approved Filler Compliance Certificate

o using tools and equipment safely

o securing and storing all materials, plant and equipment safely.

• Maintain safety procedures, including electrical safety and flammable

refrigerant handling requirements, when working on an existing building.

Site safety

• Check and measure indoor and outdoor locations for available space, access

and required clearances for installation and servicing

• Check the system pipe run does not exceed maximum length and differential

height recommended by Rinnai

• Confirm the walls are able to provide fixing and support.

• Identify the location of a suitable power source


Page 37 of 80

Installing the indoor unit

Maintain clearances as given in the Rinnai Installation Manual Unit and on page 16 of this module. New building:

• Locate the pre-installed pipework.

• Have any required dwanging added. Existing building:

• Locate studs/framing on which to fix the installation plate. Plate should be located to span across two stud positions.

• Check the structural integrity of the wall.

• Insert dwanging between studs for fixing support if two studs in suitable positions are not available.

• Ensure that the installation plate is horizontal before fixing.

• Do not bend the back plate during fixing – if necessary, pack behind

• For framed walls, screw-fix the installation plate through the wall into the framing behind.

• For concrete/concrete masonry walls, bolt-fix the installation plate using anchor or screw bolts.

Drill a hole in the wall: Using a 70 mm

diameter core drill, drill a hole through the

wall to the right or left of the installation

plate, taking care not to make the hole

extend over the outer wall profile of the

indoor unit. Drill the hole with a slight

slope to the outside for drainage.

Check that the wall space is free from

electrical cables, plumbing and cross

bracings before drilling holes.


Page 38 of 80

Attach the indoor unit: Release the

tubing and drainage hose from the back

of the indoor unit ready for connection to

the pipework.

Feed the connecting cable from the

outdoor unit through the hole in the wall

and connect to the indoor unit.

Tape the tubing, drainage hose and

the connecting cable together,

ensuring that the drainage hose is on

the low side of the bundle. If you route

the drainage hose inside the room,

insulate it to prevent condensation

forming that may damage furniture or

fittings.

Lift the unit into position and feed the

taped bundle through the hole.

Attach the unit to the wall bracket.


Page 39 of 80

NOTE: DO NOT use flexible drainage hose inside existing walls unless fully accessible – if it becomes kinked, it may block and cause leakage inside the wall.

Ensure that the unit is securely seated.

Fill gaps around the pipe work in the

opening formed using a proprietary

seal.

Install cover and face plate to unit.

Confirm that all holes through the wall

lining are hidden by the installed unit.

Taped pipes, drainage pipe and

connection cable through hole.

Feed taped pipes, drainage pipe and

connection cable through the hole to

the outside. Ensure that the

condensate drain is at the bottom of

the grouped pipes and that there are

no kinks in it.

Remove tape and expose flared pipe

ends for connection to copper piping.


Page 40 of 80

Installing the outdoor unit

Install the outdoor unit so that:

• it sits level

• it cannot fall over

• the weight is fully supported to prevent sagging

• it has an unobstructed gap under it of at least 80 mm

• it will not transmit vibration

• there is a suitable clearance (80 mm) underneath to allow for a condensate drain and hosing and clearing of leaves and dirt

• fixings used are corrosion-resistant (stainless steel or Hot Dip Galvanised).

The outdoor unit can be fixed on:

• a concrete pad cast in place or a single piece pre-cast slab at least 40 mm thick

• a concrete patio or balcony

• a timber slatted deck with anti-vibration mounts

• brackets fixed to a foundation or solid block wall

• the roof where the installation has been specifically designed (engineered)

to accommodate live loads and wind forces acting on the roof, and it

incorporates anti-vibration mounts

• a specified base in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.

Proprietary mounting systems for roofs and walls are available and should be installed

in accordance with the supplier’s instructions.

NOTES:

DO NOT fix the unit onto a waterproof deck or a membrane roofing system, as the fixings will penetrate and compromise the waterproofing. AVOID mounting the outdoor unit on a timber framed wall as it may transmit vibrations through the wall into the dwelling. Consider the occupancy use of the room behind the ODU.


Page 41 of 80

Installing an outdoor unit on a concrete pad

• Construct the pad as shown above (check construction if done by others) or

place and level a single unit 950 x 450 x 50 mm thick pre-cast concrete slab.

• Fix proprietary mounting rails,

• Securely fix the mounting rails to the concrete with Grade 316 stainless

steel masonry anchors or screw bolts, using two fixings per rail.

• Check that rails are level before tightening – pack with plastic shims as

necessary to level.

• Fix the unit to the rails and tighten fixing bolts/anchors.

Installing an outdoor unit on a concrete balcony or patio

• Fix proprietary mounting rails (where supplied) or hot-dip galvanised

mounting rails over anti-vibration mounts, at centres to suit the unit.

• Securely fix the mounting rails to the concrete with Grade 316 stainless

steel masonry anchors or screw bolts, with two fixings per rail.

• Check that rails are level before tightening – pack with plastic shims as

necessary to level.

• Fix the unit to the rails and tighten fixing bolts.

NOTE: DO NOT fix units to waterproof concrete or timber-framed decks.


Page 42 of 80

Installing an outdoor unit on a timber deck

• Fix hot-dip galvanised mounting rails into the joists with 75 mm long

stainless steel screws. Alternatively, fix the mounting rails to 190 x 45 H3.2

treated timber rails laid on flat that are screw- fixed to the decking joists with

115 mm long stainless steel screws. Provide anti-vibration mounts or pads.

Fix hot-dip galvanised mounting rails through the rails and joists with 75 mm

long stainless steel screws.

• Check that rails are level before

tightening – pack with plastic shims

as necessary to level (on right).

• Fix the unit to the rails and tighten

fixing bolts.


Page 43 of 80

Installing an outdoor unit on a foundation or wall (concrete/concrete masonry only)

• Check the structural integrity of the wall or foundation.

• Bolt-fix hot-dip, galvanised brackets or proprietary brackets to the wall or

foundation using stainless steel masonry anchors or screw bolts

Check that the brackets are level before tightening.

• Waterproof around fixings according to the material.

• Fix the unit to the brackets.

• Anti-vibration pads provided with the ODU should be used.

• Ensure the ground underneath is stable, compact and level

• Ensure clearance to ground is sufficient. Rinnai recommend a distance of

80 mm or greater under the unit

NOTE: DO NOT mount on timber-framed walls as vibration / noise transmission will become an issue.


Page 44 of 80

Installing an outdoor unit onto the roof

It is not preferred to install a heat pump onto a roof, due to noise vibration transfer,

service accessibility, exposure to elements and moisture ingress.

However, if you do, adhere to the following:

• Roof installations must be specifically designed.

• Always check and follow the instructions of the roofing system

manufacturer.

• Screw-fix A proprietary mounting system (eg Monkey Toe) into the roof

framing. If mounting on timber base, use painted H3.2 (or greater) treated

timber.

• Use anti-vibration mounts.

• Insert ethylene propylene diene M-class (EPDM) rubber washers between

the bracket and the roofing.

• Check that the brackets are level before tightening.

• Seal all fixings as for the rest of the roof fixing; for example, use EPDM or

neoprene.

• Fix the unit to the base.

NOTES:

DO NOT mount units on concrete or clay tile roofs (tiles are not strong enough

to allow mounting and the weight of the installers working on the roof)

DO NOT mount directly onto metal roofing, as roofing can act as a sound

amplifier and direct fixing may cause corrosion of the roofing

DO NOT let CCA treated (tanalised) timber come into direct contact with

galvanized steel roofing as it is not compatible.

WARNING:

When mounting the ODU on a deck or balcony that is more than

1 m above the surface below in a way that facilitates climbing

over the balustrades or railings. Any screen around the ODU

must not facilitate climbing and must not include toe holes.


Page 45 of 80

Connecting piping to indoor and outdoor units

Connection of piping to indoor and outdoor units must be done in the following order:

• Connect the piping to the indoor unit

• Fix trunking

• Connect the piping to the outdoor unit

Connect the piping to the indoor unit

• Use twin-insulated and dehydrated copper

piping.

• Cut and flare the copper pipes for

connection to the indoor unit

• Apply oil to both the flare and the indoor

unit, ensuring that the oil is compatible

with the refrigerant.

• Align and connect the pipes and tighten

the flare nut by hand.

• Tighten the flare nut connections using two spanners to the correct torque.

• Overlap the connection pipe and indoor pipe insulation.

• Bind the insulation with foam insulation tape, then follow with vinyl tape.

Bind insulation with vinyl tape


Page 46 of 80

• Connect and tape the drainage

hose to the drainage outlet.

Fix trunking

• Screw-fix proprietary trunking to the

exterior wall from the outlet to the

outdoor unit.

• Use stainless steel screws.

• Install trunking neatly in straight runs

with 90º angles, tight weather seals and

waterproof flashings.

Run horizontal trunking with a slight

downhill slope if it contains the drainage

pipe

• Fit refrigerant piping, drainage pipe

and connecting cable into trunking

• Attach trunking cover.

• Fill hole around piping with sealant

compatible with the trunking and the

cladding system.

Tape drainage hose to drainage outlet

Fix trunking neatly


Page 47 of 80

• Seal around and fit cover over

opening.

NOTE: For aesthetic reasons, minimise the use of trunking indoors


Page 48 of 80

Connecting piping to indoor and outdoor units

Criteria:

• Use twin-insulated and dehydrated copper piping.

• Use the correct Pair Coil size as it varies by Q Series model. Refer to the pipe

sizing table in the Instalaltion Manual

• Make flare joints with precision. This is vital. The main cause of refrigerant

leaks is due to defects with flaring work.

• When cutting the Pair Coil take into account the different lengths of the two

conenctions coming from the IDU

Order of work – an overview

Connection of piping to indoor and outdoor units must be done in the following order:

• Measure, cut, form and flare joints on the Pair Coil pipes

• Connect the piping to the indoor unit – hand tight

• Connect the piping to the outdoor unit – hand tight

• Then tighten both sets of joints. You must 2 spanners and one must be a

torque spanner. See torque values in Installation Manual

• Perform Dry Nitrogen Positive Pressure Holding test before fixing

trunking)

• Evacuate the piping

• While the evacuation procedure is taking place, make electrical

connections and fix trunking, including sealing and openings in the building

with Putty supplied

The procedure in detail:

Connect the piping to the indoor unit

a. The holes cut in the wall lining and the exterior cladding must at different

heights allowing for maximum fall towards the outside. It must be a minimum of

4°. In practice it is important to maximise the fall to get condensate flowing

away as soon as possible.

b. Check that the drain line has a continuous fall and that it is not kinked or

twisted. The drain line must be free of any kinks and be draining away water

quickly form the outdoor head. Incorrect drain positioning is the cause of some

many easily preventable installation problems. If the drain needs to discharge

out the left-hand side of the unit, ALWAYS move the drain connection to that

side. Do not run it horizontally behind the indoor unit with the pair coil.

c. Cut and flare the piping between the two units (refer to separate section on

cutting and connections)


Page 49 of 80

d. Remember that all unused piping must have the end capped.

e. Release the protective caps on the piping from the IDU.

This is charged with a holding charge of Nitrogen to

keep the inside of the pipes clean during transport and

installation of the IDU You will hear the gas escape.

Make sure nothing enters the piping.

f. If you do not hear the sound of the Nitrogen escaping,

then it may be that the pipework is damaged. This is very

rare, however if this happens you must perform a Dry

Nitrogen Pressure test on the IDU piping before

proceeding. There is no point proceeding until you have

confirmed the integrity of the indoor heat exchanger piping.

g. Apply refrigerant oil to the back of the flare,

ensuring that the oil is compatible with the

refrigerant. (POE). It is important to use some oil

as this prevents the pipe binding and fretting when

the nut is tightened.

h. Note some installers also

apply oil to the inside of the

flare.

i. Align and connect the pipes and tighten the flare nuts by hand.

Now make connection to the ODU

a. Bend the piping and form it along the pathway to the

connections to the ODU. The connections should come into

at an angle to match the angle of the valves on the ODU.

b. All pipe over 3/8” (9.5 mm) must be bent using pipe benders

to avoid kinks in the piping. I.e. this is all gas piping used

on Rinnai Q & Ducted heat pumps.

When piping is close to a wall, it may be easier to use

Bending Springs rather than a pipe bender.

c. Remove the brass caps off the male threads at the ODU. As these are angled

upwards ensure that no debris enters the ODU connections.

d. It is much easier to connect the lower liquid (smaller) pipe first then the gas pipe

e. Connect pipes to ODU connections and hand tighten

f. Next check the piping is well formed against the wall and that the piping coming

into at an angle to match the angle of the valves on the ODU.


Page 50 of 80

Tighten connections:

a. Next, make the 4 sets of flare connections

b. If you did not apply the POE oil to the flare

connections when hand tightening them,

undo the nut and apply the oil now.

c. NEVER complete tightening of the flare nuts

without first applying the oil.

d. Tighten both sets of flare connections using

two spanners. The one on the nut must be

a torque spanner. Set the torque spanner

to the values in the installation manual.

Note torque settings are different for each of

the 3 different gas pipe sizes on the 5 Q

Series models.

e. Do not tidy piping insulation or fit trunking at this stage until the Positive

Pressure Holding test is complete.

.


Page 51 of 80

Leak/pressure test

Purpose of the Positive Pressure Holding test:

It is important to perform a positive pressure holding test of any connections

including brazed connections where pipework has been extended.

This test is a Rinnai NZ requirement.

Warning:

If a positive pressure test is not performed and the system leaks R32 refrigerant

when charged, it will:

Create hazard as the R32 is flammable.

Delay installation as you will need to:

1. Recover the remaining refrigerant

2. Find the source of the leak and remediate

3. Recharge the system with refrigerant (do you have the refrigerant

available?)

4. Do you have the Approved Fillers Licence?

The Dry Nitrogen Positive Pressure Holding Test is an installation requirement and the

results must be recorded on the Commissioning checklist.

Equipment needed for the holding test:

1. Cylinder of dry nitrogen

2. Valve set and gauges

3. R410A / R32 rated hoses with 5/16” connections.

Procedure

1. Remove the service port valve cap from the gas valve on the outdoor unit

2. Use only dry nitrogen. Do not Nitrogen with any oxygen content. Any oxygen

introduced into a system during pressure testing can be extremely dangerous

and can cause a large explosion.

3. Connect the Nitrogen gas regulator directly to the service port valve. It will

require a hose with a 5/16" flare connection. (and a Schrader depressor

fitting)

4. Connect the nitrogen gas regulator directly to the service port valve. It will

require a hose with a 1/4" Female Flare fitting on one end and a 5/16" flare

fitting on the other end.

5. Pressurise the system to greater than 400 psi (2760 kPa). But do not exceed

500 psi / 3450 kPa

6. Turn off the Nitrogen supply and note the exact pressure reading

7. There are 2 easy ways of determining if the pipework is sound: Rinnai

recommends you perform both:

i. Test #1:

Test all joints by using a bubble test solution (e.g. Big Blue, Bubble Leak

Detector). If using electronic testing, a trace gas must be added to the nitrogen.

Electronic testing can be unreliable in windy conditions. Remember, keep the


Page 52 of 80

leak solution off your skin. (refer to the SDS)

ii. Test #2:

A pressure drop test after at least 5 minutes – and after testing with leak

solution, release the regulator. Watch the pressure gauge for any drop-off in

pressure and allow to hold for at least 5 minutes. There must not be any

pressure drop for the test to be successful.

8. If a leak is found with an electronic tester, it should be verified using a bubble

test solution.

9. SAFETY NOTE: if using a product like Bluey Bubble Leak detector you should

avoid getting this on your skin & defiantly do not get this in your eyes. Refer to

SDS.

10. Be Aware:

That if a leak is very small, the system may produce a positive holding

test. The refrigerant will escape over several months.

11. Reminders:

i. Correctly performing the pipe flaring and connections are vital (you

cannot beat a brazed joint!)

ii. That all flare joints are only for use outside the walls of the building.

12. Once the test is successful:

i. Release the nitrogen regulator and disconnect the hose to the valve set.

(be careful to release the pressure in the hose slowly) Ensure that you

have released the all pressure in the HP piping.

ii. Disconnect the cylinder when the pressure has returned to normal

With piping proven to be sound, the next step is to Evacuate the piping ready for charging the system with refrigerant.


Page 53 of 80

Evacuation of the system

It is essential that you evacuate the system correctly to remove air, moisture and

any nitrogen remaining from the pressure testing.

Any air, moisture or foreign matter remaining in the system may cause:

• the pressure in the system to rise, resulting in compressor malfunction

• the operating current to rise, resulting in performance loss

• moisture to freeze and block pipework and valves

• oil sludge build-up

• corrosion of parts of the system.

Digital Vacuum Gauge

Always use a good quality (e.g. Yellow Jacket) electronic digital vacuum gauge

and manifold set to monitor the evacuation.

Vacuum Pump

Ensure as a minimum:

i. the vacuum pump is in good working order

ii. is serviced regularly

iii. has clean oil

iv. vacuum pump oil should be replaced after 5 uses or every month, whichever happens first

v. the pump is equipped with a backflow prevention device to prevent the oil in the pump flowing backwards into the refrigerant pipes (should power fail during the test) as this could cause major damage to the system.

Vacuum pump oil replacement must occur:

i. If there is moisture in the oil

ii. If it looks creamy in colour

Equipment:

The equipment must be suitable for use with R32 refrigerant.

1. Evacuation pump suitable for R32 flammable refrigerant

2. Electronic digital vacuum gauge and hoses.

3. Hoses which must have:

• isolation valve fitted at the gauge on the line to the pump

• A fitting 5/16 to ½” male to female Schrader fitting is needed for direct connection to the Service port.

Isolation valve fitted


Page 54 of 80

Important: It is not possible to get an accurate reading of the vacuum using compound Bourdon tube style gauges. An electronic vacuum gauge must be used.

Caution:

NEVER connect the vacuum gages and pump to pressurised pipework. Always

release the pressurised dry nitrogen from the piping by releasing the regulator

at the end of the Pressure test.

References:

• The methods specified in the Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling

Code of Practice 2007, Section 6.

Parts 1 & 2 of this code are available on the IRHACE www here:

Equipment set-up

https://www.irhace.org.nz/publications-2/code-of-practice/


Page 55 of 80

Procedure

Carry out the evacuation:

• Before you start:

o Vent the residual Nitrogen pressure in the

piping before connecting any hoses from

the gauge set. This is done by gently

depressing the Shrader valve in the

service port.

1. Fit an isolation valve in the line between the

gauge and the vacuum pump, ideally immediately

at the connection to the gauges.

2. Fit a valve with 5/16 to 1/2” male to female Schrader to the end of the hose going

from the isolation valve to the service port.

3. Connect hoses between the vacuum pump and the electronic gauge.

4. Position or hang the vacuum gauge

high on the unit. It must be above the

service valves, (and as high as

possible) so that oil cannot get into the

vacuum line.

5. Ensure the isolation valve between the

gauges and the service port is closed.

6. Start the vacuum pump.

7. Slowly open the isolation valve. This must be done slowly otherwise the pump

can spit out oil.

8. Note: that if something happens, you will need to start again. The Evacuation


Page 56 of 80

pump can be equipped with a solenoid to cut off the hose lines is the pump stops

e.g. if it loses power.

9. The time taken to evacuate the piping will vary according to:

o the pump capacity

o length of the tubing

o whether the piping is new or pre-used

10. A change in vacuum will be noticeable within a minute or two of starting the

pump. At 400 microns or less, moisture is being removed from the piping. Read

the gauge for a pressure reading to check evacuation

11. Evacuate to between 200 – 400 microns. New systems should be as close to

200 microns as possible. (this will depend on the gauge lines)

12. Generally, the time to evacuate the piping to 200 microns for a 10 m back to

back system will be at least 20 minutes. Longer times will be required for longer

pipe runs.

During evacuation, complete the following:

While waiting for the pipework to be evacuated, you can:

1. Complete insulating the pipework between the IDU and ODU

2. Position the condensate drain from the IDU

3. Fit the trunking and seal gaps in the exterior of the building with the putty supplied

4. Complete the electrical connections at the ODU (refer to installation manual)

Continuing with Evac Test…..

13. When 400 microns or lower is reached, (down to 200 is even better) do not turn

the pump off yet, close the isolation valve between the vacuum gauge and the

pump

14. Then turn the vacuum pump off

15. There are several tests to be done:

i. Take a note of the vacuum gauge reading

▪ Be aware that the vacuum reading will rise. What is important is, how

far it rises to and at what pressure it stabilises at

▪ Observe the vacuum gage reading for 5 minutes and note the following:

a. If between 500 -1500 microns = indicates the last of the moisture

is being extracted You can continue to evacuate to ensure all the

moisture is removed.

b. Up to 2000 microns generally there is no leak.

c. The gauge should not rise above 2000 microns - if it does, it may

indicate:

• faulty seals on the hoses/gauges

• LEAK

If after turning the pump off, the vacuum holds at 500 microns or lower, you can charge the system with refrigerant. (See “Charge the system” on the next page)


Page 57 of 80

16. DO NOT remove the vacuum hose lines, as this will allow the evacuated pipes to

fill with air at atmospheric pressure. Keep gauges attached and turned on.

You are now ready to break the vacuum & charge the system with refrigerant

Charge the system:

1. Remove the brass caps covering the

refrigerant release screws for the liquid

and gas lines

2. Use a 5 mm hex spanner / Allen key

3. Break the vacuum by slowly by opening

the liquid service valve for just a second

or two and close it again - there will be a

hiss as the pressure inside the pipework

goes positive. Watch the gauges and

briefly release the refrigerant several times allowing the piping to become

pressurised.

4. Fully open both liquid and gas service valves

5. Remove the evacuation hose and replace the caps for this both liquid and gas

valve caps. Tighten using an adjustable wrench.

6. If a valve cap cannot be finger-tightened first, do not force- tighten it, as this may

strip the thread. Instead, remove and refit the cap. Securely fasten the caps to

prevent refrigerant leakage from the system.

7. Leak test the service valve and the 2 caps on the vapour and gas valves with

bubble solution to confirm there are no leaks.

8. Perform this test again when the unit is

running with higher pressure in the pipes.

The system is now ready to commission

once the electrical wiring and the pipework

trunking is complete.


Page 58 of 80

Self-Check #2: Installation

Check your understanding of the topics so far.


1 On the interior wall what is the diameter of the hole that is to be

drilled?

46 mm 55 mm 65 mm 70 mm

2 The hole drilled in the exterior wall must be:

• Slightly angled down to the inside

• Slightly angled down to the outside

• Level

3 When taping together the tubing, drainage hose and connecting

cable together prior to lifting the indoor unit into place, which of

the three must be on the low side of the bundle?

Condensate drainage hose

Electrical cable

Tubing

4 Never use flexible drainage hose inside existing walls because it

could become kinked creating a blockage and resulting in leakage

within the wall cavity

True

False

5 If the ODU is being fixed to a concrete pad and the pad is at least

50 mm thick, proprietary mounting rails are not needed.

True

False


Page 59 of 80


6 Pipe lengths and elevations are specified in the installation manual.

What is the maximum vertical height for the 7 kW Q Series model?

12 m 16 m 20 m 25 m

7 What is the maximum pipe run between the IDU and ODU for a 5.2 kW model?

20 m 30 m 40 m

8 When connecting flare joints, it is good practice to hand tighten first, then after ensuring the pipes will fit neatly into trunking, tighten connections with a Torque spanner.

True False

9 What is the torque wrench setting when connecting the gas pipe to the outdoor unit on the 5.2 kW unit?

18 Nm 42 Nm 55 Nm 75 Nm

10 It is good practice (and a Rinnai requirement) to perform a dry

nitrogen positive pressure holding test (PPHT) after completion of

pipework installation.

Is the pressure test performed using the R32 refrigerant in the system?

Yes

No

11 When performing the dry nitrogen positive pressure holding test

(PPHT), what is the minimum pressure pipework must be charged

to?

• 250 psi • 400 psi • 475 psi • 500 psi


Page 60 of 80


12 There are two parts to the PPHT.

(1) Testing for leaks

(2) A timed pressure drop test

What are the success criteria for this pressure drop test?

• Hold for 3 minutes / <10% drop

• Hold for 3 minutes / no pressure drop





13 It is essential the system is evacuated to remove air, moisture and

any nitrogen remaining from pressure testing.

Any air, moisture or foreign matter remaining in the system may cause: (select the four (4) correct responses)

• the pressure in the system to rise, resulting in compressor malfunction

• the pressure in the system to drop, resulting in loss of performance

• the operating current to rise, resulting in performance loss

• the operating current to drop, resulting in compressor malfunction

• oil sludge build-up • production of acid, leading to corrosion of parts of the

system.

14 Why is it not recommended to use bourdon type gauges for the

evacuation process?

• Because they are not accurate enough • Because if the glass covers on the gauges breaks it

will leak oil • The gauges cannot be accurately calibrated every 2

years that the standard requires

15 When evacuating the system, where must the gauges be

positioned?

• Below the pump • Level with the service valve • As high as possible above the pump • It doesn’t matter where they are positioned


Page 61 of 80


16 What is the minimum vacuum that must be reached?

• 500 microns, but closer to 300 microns is better




17 After charging the system with refrigerant, the brass caps must be

put back onto the vapour and liquid valves and the service valve

and tightened.

Is it necessary to twice check that refrigerant is not leaking?

• Yes • No

Check your answers……… https://rinnaitraining.co.nz/HP/M5aSC2Ans201112.pdf

https://rinnaitraining.co.nz/HP/M5aSC2Ans201112.pdf


Page 62 of 80

Refrigerants

Introduction This section is a basic overview on the refrigerant used in Rinnai Heat Pumps as

well as background information.

A number of different heat pump refrigerants have been used over the years and

all have some degree of impact to the environment.

It is important to minimise refrigerant leaks because they can increase

greenhouse gases emissions and present health and safety risks.

Early refrigerants used were chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), and

hydrochlorofluorocarbon (HCFCs) but the ozone-depleting nature of these

compounds has led to them being phased out. These have been placed with

hydrofluorocarbon (HFC) compounds.

Hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs) such as R410A and R32 are currently widely used in

refrigeration and air conditioning systems. However, HFCs are greenhouse gases

with high global warming potential. A worldwide phase down of HFCs is being

implemented from 2019 with a target of 21% of baseline (2015) usage by 2030.

The switch from HFCs to more environmentally acceptable alternatives will help

combat climate change, but will also present increased risks to health and safety

in some circumstances because of the higher toxicity, flammability or pressure of

common alternatives.

When purchasing a heat pump, ensure you understand which refrigerant is

suitable for the system. The installation and technical guide supplied by the

manufacturer will provide this information and must be observed at all times.

NOTE:

DO NOT use the incorrect refrigerant in a heat pump as this voids the warranty

and will damage the heat pump.

Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling Code of Practice

Parts 1 & 2 of this code are available on the IRHACE www here:

Fluorocarbon Refrigerants

Compliance with the Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling Code of

Practice 2007 is mandatory for the handling of fluorocarbon refrigerants by

anyone holding a refrigerant handling license or refrigerant trading authorisation.

The Code of Practice is in two parts:

1. Part 1 covers self-contained low charge systems that do not require any

work on the refrigeration circuit to install and contain less than 2 kilograms

of fluorocarbon refrigerant.

2. Part 2 covers all other stationary and transport refrigeration and air

conditioning systems. (this applies to Rinnai High Wall Heat Pumps)

Essential requirements of the code are that:

1. heat pump systems must be able to be installed, operated, serviced and

decommissioned without loss of refrigerant

https://www.irhace.org.nz/publications-2/code-of-practice/


Page 63 of 80

2. heat pump systems must be installed by an appropriately qualified person

with Approved Filler Compliance Certificate for refrigerant handling.

3. refrigerant must not be intentionally released into the atmosphere but

must be recovered into a refrigerant recovery cylinder. Releasing

refrigerants into the atmosphere can incur hefty fines.

NOTES:

• ALWAYS check the label on the outdoor unit for the correct refrigerant to

be used

• ENSURE you have the required certifications to carry out the work, OR if the

heat pump is being installed by a third party, confirm with Rinnai to ensure the

installer is suitably qualified

• NEVER use an unqualified, uncertified installer.

Refrigerant charging

The Rinnai outdoor unit is factory-charged with sufficient refrigerant to allow for

the indoor unit and a specific pipe run. Rinnai Q Series High Wall heat pumps are

pre-charged with enough refrigerant to allow for a 10-metre pipe run.

You will need to add extra refrigerant to a Rinnai Q Series heat pump where pipe

runs exceed 10 metres.

You must carry out refrigerant charging in accordance with AS/NZS 5149:2016

Part 4 Operation, maintenance, repair and recovery.

Procedure

1. Only use virgin R-32 refrigerant for charging

2. Measure the additional pipe run length

3. Accurately calculate the amount of refrigerant required according to

the Rinnai installation manual

4. Measure the required amount of refrigerant (where additional charge is

required) by mass, using electronic scales

5. Keep the charge lines as short as possible

6. Leak test the pipework before charging, by partially opening, then

closing the cylinder valve to pressurise the connecting pipework

7. Charge using liquid refrigerant from the cylinder

8. Check for leaks using the bubble test solution

9. Ensure that the cylinder and unit are at the same height to prevent

gravity transfer of the refrigerant

NOTES:

• DO NOT release refrigerant into the atmosphere. Releasing refrigerants

into the atmosphere can incur hefty fines

• DO NOT use ultraviolet dye

• DO NOT use reclaimed refrigerant to add additional charge unless it has been

recovered from the same system.


Page 64 of 80

Labelling as record of service

You must label any system that is charged with refrigerant or lubricant.

Label compressors, systems and liquid refrigerant pumps in accordance

with AS/NZS 5149.2: 2016 clause 4.5 marking and documentation.

Place a permanent label on the outer side of unit that

identifies:

• refrigerant type

• date of service

• lubricant type

• refrigerant charge (total including any additional charge).


Page 65 of 80

Electrical requirements

This section covers electrical requirements for heat pump installations.

All electrical terminations must be carried out by a registered electrician. An Electrical

Certificate of Compliance (CoC) must be issued on completion.

Electrical work must be carried out in accordance with the Electricity Act, Electricity

(Safety) Regulations, including the cited edition of AS/NZS 3000 Electrical

installations (known as the Australian/New Zealand Wiring Rules).

Important:

There are differences between some Rinnai models and common models in the

market relating to electrical wiring. These are:

• the 2.5, 3.5, 5.2 & 7.0 kW models use a 5-wire cable to connect the

indoor and outdoor units

• This does not apply to the 8.4 kW model which uses 4-wire cable

Refer to Appendix A

This information can also be downloaded from here:


Installing electrical wiring

Depending on the heat pump’s power input rating and the building’s existing

electrical installation, the heat pump may either be connected to an existing electrical

circuit with sufficient spare capacity (e.g. looped off an existing power socket), or to a

separate dedicated circuit (wired back to the main switchboard).

• Select a circuit for the main power supply.

• For installations in new buildings, use a dedicated circuit.

• Refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for:

• rated voltage

• input capacity/fuse size

• electrical cable size

• wiring diagram for electrical installation.

• All connections must be carried out by a registered electrician.

Outdoor unit connections

• Remove service cover from outdoor unit.

• Fix indoor/outdoor connecting cable correctly to the

terminal block in the outdoor unit.

• Tighten terminal screws to ensure that wires are

firmly secured.

• Connect power supply cable to terminal block in

outdoor unit.

Connect power supply cable to terminal block



Page 66 of 80

• Install a lockable isolating switch.

• Install the switch so that it can be

reached for servicing

• Attach the isolating switch to the wall

next to the heat pump.

• Do not mount the switch on the ODU

NOTE: It is an offence to mount a switch on the unit.

• Provide waterproof protection to the

connection as required, such as:

o cable gland

o flexible conduit.

• Replace service cover to outdoor unit

when all connections are completed.

Install lockable isolating switch



Replace service cover to outdoor unit


Page 67 of 80

NOTES:

• DO NOT connect the isolating switch to the outdoor unit. Otherwise the unit

cannot be isolated from power if removed.

• DO NOT allow contact between wiring and refrigerant pipework

• DO NOT run the main power cable and heat pump system power cable

together

• DO NOT allow electrical work to be carried out by an unlicensed

tradesperson or without an Electrical Certificate of Compliance (CoC).

Otherwise, the owner’s house insurance may be voided.

Nameplate Ensure nameplate is visible in an accessible location displaying:

• manufacturer’s name and/or trademark

• type or model designation and

serial number

• rated voltage

• rated frequency

• cooling capacity

• heating capacity

• refrigerant type (designation)

and charge


Page 68 of 80

Testing, commissioning and customer operating instructions

This section covers what you need to do once the Rinnai heat pump system is

installed. It includes what to check before it is commissioned, testing the system,

briefing the homeowner on the new system and carrying out a quality control check

once everything is completed.

For testing and commissioning, follow manufacturer’s instructions where provided;

otherwise follow the Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling Code of

Practice 2007.

Pre-commissioning checks Outdoor unit – check:

• The unit is secure and correctly mounted.

• There is a clear air movement path.

• Ensure the valves are fully opened and valve caps have been replaced and

securely tightened.

Indoor unit – check:

• Unit mounting is level and secure.

• Remote control base is securely screwed to wall.

Pipework – check:

• Pipework has been correctly installed and secured.

• Pipework is correctly insulated.

Indoor unit drainage – check:

• Pour some water into the indoor unit drainage pan. Ensure that the water

flows through the outlet and drainage hose without leaking.

• If a condensate pump has been used, test this is working correctly, that it is

siphoning, and that the float switch is working correctly.

Electrical checks Wiring:

• Carry out tests required under the Electricity (Safety) Regulations, including

the cited edition of AS/NZS 3000 Electrical installations (known as the

Australian/New Zealand Wiring Rules).

• Electrical Certificate of Compliance (CoC) is obtained and a copy handed to

the owner.

Labelling:

• Ensure Switchboard fuse has been labelled appropriately


Page 69 of 80

Prepare the remote control

• Remove the battery cover.

• Insert new batteries.

• Replace cover.

Testing the new system

• Switch the system on.

• Ensure that no LED lights are on. If LED lights are on or blinking, the

installation is faulty. Refer to unit handbook to identify fault as indicated by

flashing LEDs. Then disconnect the power supply and locate and fix the

fault.

• Check the emergency operation by pressing the emergency operation on/off

switch and holding down for 3-5 seconds. This will start a test run

(continuous operation for a set period) during which the thermostat does not

work.

• Press the emergency operation on/off switch again to turn off.

• Test unit in heating and cooling mode, as described below.

Indoor unit – check:

• The fan operates at all speeds.

• There is no vibration of the unit.

• Vertical and horizontal air direction controls are operating.

• Air circulation mode (circulating air without heating/cooling) is operating.

• The unit operates to the correct heat command – use a thermometer. With

an indoor ambient air temperature of 21°C:

– for heating, an air-off coil temperature of 42°C or higher should be

achieved

– for cooling, an air-off coil temperature of 16°C or lower should be

achieved.

• The manual operation (using the switches on the indoor unit) is functioning –

for situations when the remote cannot be used.

• The auto start is functioning.

• An electronic sound can be heard by pressing the on/off button of the

remote control.

• The condensate pump (if installed) works.

• Where Required by the owner the WiFi app is downloaded and setup on to

the customers preferred device, the app is paired to the indoor unit and the

remote control is working (Refer to the Rinnai Q Series WiFi Installation

Manual for clear instructions of how to carry out this step)


Page 70 of 80

Instructions to the owner

Checklist of instructions to the owner on the use of the system:

• Demonstrate how to set the controls/different modes correctly.

• Demonstrate how to use the remote control.

• Demonstrate how to remove and clean air filters.

• Advise:

– on what to expect in extremely hot or cold conditions

– that the system will take a few minutes to warm up

• consider turning the heat pump off late at night if the noise bothers the

neighbours.

• Advise of service requirements.

• Recommend reading the operating instructions manual including the WiFi

installation and operation manual.

• Provide a service checklist.

• Provide the warranty.

Before the installer leaves

• Electrician to provide an electrical Certificate of Compliance (CoC).

• Provide a record of the system commissioning data.

• Provide contact names and numbers for after sales support

Checklist for using a heat pump efficiently

Understanding how to use a heat pump efficiently is important

information for users.

• Only heat when you need it - don't leave your heat pump on all day if you're

not there. Use the timer to turn on the heat pump shortly before you get

home and turn it off when you don’t need it.

• Set the thermostat to a healthy temperature - aim for 18ºC to 21ºC. High

thermostat settings cause high electricity use. Inadequate heating can lead

to mould growth and dampness.

• Avoid the ‘Low’ and ‘Quiet’ Fan settings during very cold weather. To get the

full heating power out of your heat pump, choose the ‘Auto’ Fan setting.

• It is normal for the heat pump to sometimes stop heating or blow out cold air

during very cold weather, while the outdoor unit defrosts. This usually only

takes a few minutes. Contact the manufacturer if you have any concerns.

• Check the filter regularly (as often as fortnightly) - this is a quick, easy job

you can do yourself. Clogged heat pump filters mean the heater uses more

power to run.


Page 71 of 80

Quality control checklist

Carry out a quality assurance check on completion of the heat pump installation.

Outdoor unit

• Is the outdoor unit secure with no likelihood of falling over?

• Is there any vibration or noise disturbance to owners and/or adjacent

properties?

• Is the area around the unit clear so there is no likelihood that the air supply

routes will become blocked?

• Has the unit been installed to provide future servicing access?

• Is all the exterior ducting neat and tidy, with all flashing and waterproofing

completed?

• Have all service covers been replaced?

• Is the unit clearly labelled?

• Have the installer’s checklists been sighted?

Indoor unit

• Is the indoor unit secure and does it not vibrate?

• Has the test run been carried out?

• Is the unit neatly installed with no pipework or ducting visible?


Pipework

• Is the pipework appropriate for the refrigerant used in the system?

• Has a leak test been carried out?

• Was the system evacuated?

• Is the system charged to a level appropriate for the pipe length?

• Are the stop valves fully open?


Drainage

• Is the drain hose from the indoor unit properly installed?

• Has the indoor unit drainage been tested by pouring water into the tray?

• Has the outdoor drainage pipe been directed away appropriately?

Electrical

• Does the electrical work have an electrical Certificate of Compliance?

• Has a copy of the electrical Certificate of Compliance been given to the

owner?

• Is the unit connected to a separate circuit, hard wired back to the mains

distribution board (or if connected to existing circuit, does it have sufficient

spare capacity)?

• Is there a circuit breaker in the system and has the circuit been properly


Page 72 of 80

labelled on the distribution board?

• Is the energy rating label on the unit or available for viewing?

Instructions to the owner

• Has the operation of the system been explained to the owner?

• (where applicable) Has the WiFi app been installed on the customers

preferred IOS or Android device. Have they been shown how to use the WiFi

app?

• Does the owner have the operating manual and the WiFi operation manual?

• Has the owner been advised of maintenance and servicing requirements?

• Does the indoor unit have the energy rating label applied, or available?

• Has the owner been given a copy of the warranty

Use of WiFi control

A separate manual on the downloading and use of the WiFi system is available. If it

is not included with the unit it can be downloaded from the Rinnai www.


A brief video on downloading the App and connecting to the heat pump is available

on the Rinnai YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/user/RinnaiNZ

Important:

Do not leave the homeowner to download & register

the App. Take them through this process and show

them how the App works.


https://www.youtube.com/user/RinnaiNZ


Page 73 of 80


Page 74 of 80

Servicing and maintenance

In addition to regular maintenance by the owner, a routine maintenance agreement should

be put in place. In addition, users should monitor their heat pump and call a service person

immediately if any abnormal operation is found.

Owner maintenance

Follow instructions in the Rinnai Owner’s Manual and should be referred to at the

handover. These are also available from the Rinnai website.

You may also alert the customer to a Rinnai blog on owner maintenance

here:

https://rinnai.co.nz/blog/12/maintaining-your-heat-pump-air-conditioning-system

Indoor unit

• Check air filters of the indoor unit every 2 weeks use and clean or

replace as necessary (some units will identify when filters need

cleaning or be self-cleaning). If they can be cleaned:

– remove and vacuum clean using a brush attachment then

replace, or

– wash gently with a mild detergent and warm water, and dry

before replacing.

• Check the indoor coils (if accessible) – dust gently with a soft brush to

clean.

• Check and clean condensate pan, and drain

• Clean the unit cover with a damp cloth and mild detergent as required.

• Recognise the operational sound of the heat pump – if the sound

changes, have the system checked.

• Ensure that air vents are not blocked by furniture or objects and are

free of dust.

NOTE:

DO NOT vacuum the indoor coil fins as they are easily damaged.

Outdoor unit

• Keep the area around the outdoor unit clear of garden waste and dirt.

• Remove any growth around or into the unit.

• Make sure the unit is off when cleaning. Follow manufacturer’s

instructions when turning off the power.

• Check and clean the outdoor coils as per manufacturer’s instructions

when they are dirty. In a corrosive environment cleaning may be

required as regularly as every 3 months. Do not spray the fan motor or

wires with water.

• Contact a service person at any sign of unusual sounds or operation.

https://rinnai.co.nz/blog/12/maintaining-your-heat-pump-air-conditioning-system


Page 75 of 80

• It is recommended to have an annual servicing agreement with your

installer. Failure to maintain your heat pump to the manufacturer’s

instruction may void the warranty.

NOTE:

DO NOT spray the fan motor or wires with water.

Service Technician

Important:

This is an overview of annual servicing requirements and is not the training for

technicians to service Rinnai Heat Pumps.

You can only service a Rinnai Heat Pump if you have completed the “Heat

Pump Servicing” course and been accredited by Rinnai. This module will be

available in late 2020

Rinnai Heat Pumps should be serviced every 12 months, depending on use. Before

servicing, establish the type of refrigerant used in the system.

Q Series – R32

Indoor unit

• Inspect the filters, blower and indoor coil for dirt or obstructions. Clean these

parts with a biodegradable cleaner.

• Check the airflow.

Outdoor unit

• Clean the condenser coils as follows:

– Clear the outside of the coil of debris.

– Vacuum the coil fins using a soft bristle brush attachment – take care

to avoid bending the fins.

– Spray water from the inside to the outside of the coils to remove stuck

debris using a hose and spray gun. Do not spray the fan motor or

wires with water.

– Vacuum or remove by hand any debris remaining in the unit.

• Check coil fins for damage – if coil fins are bent, straighten using a proprietary

tool called a fin comb.

• Lubricate fan bearings if required – sealed bearing units do not

require lubricating.

• Inspect fan for damage and repair as required.

• Replace grille covers.

• Check that the condenser unit is secure and level in both

directions. If necessary, adjust the levelling feet, or make level


Page 76 of 80

with timber/plastic shims. If the unit is seriously out of level, repair

or replace the base the unit sits on.

NOTE: DO NOT spray the fan motor or wires with water.

Refrigerant

• Check the indoor unit output temperature with a digital thermometer. At an indoor ambient air temperature of 21°C:

– for heating, an air-off coil temperature of 42°C or higher should be

achieved

– for cooling, an air-off coil temperature of 16°C or lower should be

achieved.

• Check pipe joints for refrigerant leakage with bubble solution.

Electrical

• Check terminals and connections – clean and tighten if necessary.

• Check fan motors for lubrication.

• Check that all controls are operating correctly.

• Check that the thermostat is operating correctly.

• Check the voltage.


Page 77 of 80

Module 5 – Part B

The second part of this module on understanding Installation & Handover involves viewing an installation and completing the assessment. Please log into the Rinnai Learning Hub via TradeSmart and complete the short module called Heat Pump Module 5b and Assessment.

https://rinnai.co.nz/security/login


Page 78 of 80

Module assessment

To fully complete this module, you will need to complete two on-line competency

assessments.

Completing the assessments is so that you can celebrate your understanding of Installation

& Handover theory

If you have any questions about accessing the on-line Learning Portal, please call us:

0800 746 624.

Access the final assessment here: https://rinnai.co.nz/TradeSmart/

These assessments should take you about 25 minutes and you will receive your results

instantly.

Your next module

Module 6 is a day’s practical skills workshop held at Manukau Institute

of Technology’s specialist HVAC Trade Institute. The full day covers:

1. Welding safety

2. Electrical hazards

3. Adding refrigerants

4. Pre-installation

5. Installation

6. Common install faults

7. Customer handover and training

Feedback

If you have feedback on this module, we’d like to hear from you. Please email us. Click here

https://rinnai.co.nz/TradeSmart/

mailto:[email protected]?subject=Feedback%20HP%20Module%205


Page 79 of 80

Appendix A: Important differences for Rinnai Heat Pumps


Page 80 of 80

Appendix B: Making compression joints

9 steps to making a compression connection

1

Cleaning the tube end

3

Fitting insert when required to support pipe

4

Adding the ring

5

Fitting connector marking stopline

6

Applying sealant solution

7

Fitting connector

8

Compressing one connection end

2

Roughing the end surface

9

Completed compression connection


Page 81 of 80

Notes


Page 82 of 80

Acknowledgement: Rinnai NZ acknowledges the Energy Efficiency and Conservation Authority (EECA) for permission to reproduce content from its publication: “Good Practice Guide Heat Pump Installation”. The granting of permission to reproduce material provided by EECA in no way constitutes an endorsement of Rinnai Heat Pumps by EECA

Documents

High Wall Heat Pumps Module 5a Installation & Handover · Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover _____ Rinnai Best Practice Guide High Wall Heat Pumps Module 5a – Installation