Chapter 8

HERBAL HAIR FORMULATIONS AND THEIR

BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITIES

GENERAL ABOUT HAIRS, MATERIALS AND METHODS, OBSERVATIONS,

RESLHLTS AND REFERENCES

ABOUT HAIRS

Hair are protective appendages on the body. They remain on one or other

part o f body from the time of birth to death. People who carry luxuriant and

lustrous hair are regarded as young and beautiful. Hair is derived from

surface ectoderm skin. As the site where a hair follicle is to form, the germinal

layer o f epidermis proliferates to form a cylindrical mass, that grows down

into dermis. The lower and o f this down growth becomes expended and is

invaginated by a condensation of mesoderm, which forms papilla. The hair

itself is formed by proliferation o f germinal cells overiying the papilla. As the

hair grows the surface, the cell overlying the papilla. As the hair grows the

surface, the cell forming the wall o f the down growth surrounded it, a typical

hair follicle is formed. A hair has a root (bulb or Knob), a shaft and a tip. That

portion of hair which lies in the follicle is known as hair root. It is surrounded

by loose connective tissues known as root sheath. The root lies in the dermis.

The shaft grows from it and projects out side the skin. The distal end o f the

shaft is known as hair tip.

Types of hair

Three types o f hair are known in m a n : lanugo, vellus, and term ina l hair.

Lanugo hair is soft and thin, without medulla, and can be o f variable length. It

is the hair o f the fetus and in postnatal life is replaced by vellus or terminal

hair; only premature infants have lanugo hain

Vellus hair is soft and short, usually not longer than 2 cm, . often colourless, it

is the general surface hair.

Terminal hair is large and coarse, endowed with medulla and pigment, and

can vary in length, at birth it is found as scalp hair; eyebrows, and,

eyelashes. During life the same follicle can prpduce vellus hair

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terminal hair later; this is the normal behaviour of the axilla hair of children of both sexes and of the hair of the beard in the male at puberty, which under the stimulus of the sexual hormones undergo the transformation from vellus to terminal hair.

In male-pattern baldness terminal follicles regress and give origin to vellus hair. In many areas of the body both terminal and vellus hair is present in varying amounts: chest, trunk, and shoulder hair of men is more than 90% temiinal hair, while in women it is less than 35% temriinal hair.

H ya lin e B a s e n e n t f-tembranf

M e ia n o c '/ te "

-O u t e r R oo t S heath

-------- C u t id e o l InnerR o o tS tw a th

-------- H u x le y 's La ye r

Henks's L a y e r ,

InnerR ootS heath

P o o l o f Uodfffetefitiated Ceito in Shaft

F ib ro u s S N H lf i V

Pari’ia

Plate 8.1 Normal Hair follicle

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Hair

The hair consists o f three zone : cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is the

outer zone consisting of scales and form a certain characteristic pattern. The

scales are flattened with serrated edges and surrounded the shaft completely

forming a coronal pattern.

The hair cuticle located peripheral to the hair cortex, consists overlapping

cells arranged lil<e shingles and pointing upward with their peripheral portion.

The cells of the hair cuticle are tightly interlocked with the cells o f inner root

sheath cuticle, resulting in the firm attachment o f the hair to its inner root

sheath. The hair and inner root sheath thus move upward in unison.

The inner sheath is composed of three concentric layers; from the inside to

the outside, these are the inner root sheath cuticle, the Huxley layer and the

Henley layer. None of these three layers contains melanin. All the three

layers keratinize, unlike the cells o f the hair cortex and of the hair cuticle, by

means o f trichohyaline granules. Closest to the hair is the single-layered

inner root sheath cuticle, consisting o f flattened overlapping cells that point

downward in the direction o f the hair bulb. Since the cells o f the hair cuticle

point upward, these two type o f cells interlock tightly. Trichohyaline granules

are few In the inner root sheath cuticle cells. The Huxley layer, which usually

consists o f two rows of the cells, develops numerous trichohyaline granules at

the level o f the keratogenous zone of the hair. The Henley layer, only one cell

layer thick and first layer to undergo keratinization, already shows numerous

trichohyaline granules at its emergence from the matrix.

The outer roots sheath extends upwards from the matrix cells at the lower

and o f the hair bulb to the entrance of the sebaceous duct, where it changes

in to surface epidermis, which lines the upper portion, or inflindibulum, of the

hair follicle. The outer root sheath is thinnest at the level o f hair bulb,

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gradually increases In thickness and is thickest in the middle portion of the

hair follicle, the isthmus. In Its lower portion, below the isthmus, the outer

roots sheath is covered by inner root sheath and does not undergo

keratinization. The outer root sheath cells have a clear vacuolated cytoplasm

because of the presence o f considerable amounts o f glycogen. In contrast to

the surface epidermis lining the infundibulum, which contains active, melanin-

producing melanocytes in its basal layer, the basal layer o f the outer root

sheath contains only inactive amelanotic melanocytes demonstrable with

toluidine blue. However, these inactive melanocytes can become melanin-

producing cells after skin injuries, such a dermabrasion, when they increase

in number and migrate upward into the regenerating upper portion of the

outer root sheath and into the regenerating epidermis (Staricoo, 1960). In the

middle portion o f the hair follicle, the so called isthmus which extends

upwards from the attachment o f the errector pili muscle to the entrance of

sebaceous duct, the outer root sheath is no longer covered by inner root

sheath, which by then has keratinized and disintegrated. The outer root

sheath, therefore, undergoes keratinization. This type of keratinization,

referred to as trichilemmal keratinization (PInkus, 1969), produces large,

homogenous keratinized cells without the formation o f keratohyaline granules.

Trichilemmmal keratinization is found also in catagen and telogen hair and in

trichilemmal cysts and trichilemmal tumors.

The upper portion o f the hair follicle above the entrance of the sebaceous

duct, the infundibulum, is line by surface epidermis, which, like the sebaceous

duct, undergoes keratinization with the formation of keratohyaline granules.

The glassy or vitreous layer forms a homogeneous, eosinophillic zone

peripheral to the outer root sheath. It is thickest around the lower third o f hair

follicle. Peripheral to the vitrous layer lies fibrous root sheath which is

composed o f thick collagen bundles.

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Cortex - The Cortex is the middle zone of varying thickness and consists of

longitudinal keratin fibres and varying amount of pigments. The size, shape,

distribution and density of pigment granules along the shaft determine colour

of hair.

It consists of cells that, during their upward growth from hair matrix,

keratinize gradually by losing their nuclei and becoming filled with keratinized •

fibrils. The process of keratinization takes place without the formation of

kertohyaline granules, as seen in the kertainizing epidermis, or of trichohyline

granules, as seen in inner root sheath. Thus, the keratin of the hair cortex

represents hard keratin, in contrast to keratin of the Inner root sheath, which

line that of epidermis, represents soft keratin.

Medulla - The medulla is the inner zone known as medullary canal, the

central shaft, the root hair has the appearance similar to that of shaft, except

that it is enlarged in the form of bulb or knob. The hair medulla of human hair

Is often difficult to find by routine light microscopy, since it may be

discontinuous or even absent. It is more readily recognizable by the

poiariscopic examination, since, unlike the cortex, the only partially

keratinized medulla contains hardly any doubly refractile structure. If the

medulla is seen by the light microscopy in human hair. It appears amorphous

because of only partial keratinization.

Keratin is a collagenous fibrous protein that make hair. It Is found as coiled

coil of a -helices. The amino acids such as glycine, alanine, valine, leucine,

proline, crystine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, argenine and lysine occur to the

extents of 1,4,3,13,15,7,10 and 3% in keratin protein, respectively.

Melanin is the principal pigment responsible for the colour of human hair, and

acts as filter that decreases the harmful effects of ultraviolet light providing

protection against environmentally induceid premature ageing. It is a polymer

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formed by the oxidation of tyrosine by tyrosinanse to dihydroxyphenylamine

(dopa) within melanocytes. The chemical units which predominate these

meianins are o f the indole type, formed from tyrosine and dopa precursors.

In ageing persons, the melanin -producing cells gradually stop working, and

as a result hair turn white. The hair seems grey when white hair are seen

against the still-pigmented dark hair.

Hair color and texture are racial characteristics and genetically determined.

The yellow-brown mongol race has black straight hair. The negroid have

black, curly hair and the caucasoids have fair, brown, red or black hair.

C o m p o s it io n o f A n im a l h a ir

Because of the insoluble nature of keratinikzed hairs, the determination of

their composition by solubilization and extraction of the component proteins in

undegraded forms has posed many problems. Methods used have involved

either the breaking o f disulphide bonds or the hydrolysis of peptide bonds.

The former has received by far the most attention, and can be achieved by

reduction, which produces soluble kerateines by oxidation, which produces

soluble keratoses or by sulfitolysis (Crewther, 1976; Fletcher and

Buchanan, 1977). Reoxidation o f the -SH groups in kerateines can be

blocked by alkylation; for this iodoacetate is commonly used, producing S -

carboxymethylkerateines (SCMK). Many procedures have been devised for

the extraction o f proteins from reduced or oxidized wool and hair.

The soluble proteins extracted from wool and hair have been factionated into

three main groups : (a) low-sulphur proteins, e.g., SCMKA and a -keratose,

with sulphur contents less than the original wool or hiar ; (b) high -sulphur

proteins, e.g., SCMKB and y -keratose, with sulphur contents greater than

the original woo! or hair; and (c) high -glycine -tyrosine proteins (Brunner et

a/.,1971; Gillespie 1972) rich in glycine and tyrosine. Knowledge of these

275

proteins has improved with the development of high resolution methods of

one-and two-dimensional electrophoresis, listed by Gillespie (1983).

Low -sulphur SCMKA proteins extracted from several species of hair and

quill and different breeds of wool have the same general pattern of amino-

acid composition (Gillespie, 1983), Part of the variation observed in the

proportions o f S -carboxymethyl cysteine, proline, glycine and tyrosine is-

attributable to the presence of small amounts of contaminating high -sulphur

and high-glycine -tyrosine proteins, which are difficult to remove completely

from low-sulphur proteins (Gillespie, 1983), Components o f SCMKA from

guinea pig hair are homologous with components from rabbit hair (Shechter

e ta U 969).

When the sulphur content of wool Is increased by abomasal infusion of

sulphur-containing amino acids (Reis and SchlnckeJ, 1963), the high-sulphur

proteins are increased in amount the increase being in those components

with the highest sulphur content (Gillespie, 1983). These ultra-high-sulphur

proteins are not peculiar to sheep, but have also been isolated from hair of

11 Arf/odacty/a species (Lindley ef a/.. 1971).

With improvements in techniques, amino acid sequences have been

determined on several sub-units of the low-sulphur proteins and on a number

o f components o f the high -sulphur and high -glycine -tyrosine proteins of

wool (Lindiey, 1977; Parry, 1979; Crewther of a/., 1980; Gillespie, 1983),

Factors affecting hair growth

■/, H orm onal effects on hair growth are exhibited in various wayis including

changes in the onset and duration of anagen, in the rate o f growrth and

thickness o f hair during anagen, In the length of telogen and in the release of

club hairs. The responses in hair growth obtained by removal of endocrine

276

glands and /or systemic administration of hormones also vary from species

to species.

The follicle changes involved in seasonal moulting, which has been shown by

various workers to be photoperiodic in origin and related to the reproductive

cycle, are considered to be mediated via the neuroendocrine system,

particularly in wild or primitive species (Johnson, 1976). Photoperiodism is ‘

also involved in the seasonal shedding of hair by domestic species, e.g., non-

equational breeds o f cattle, and in the annual rhythm of wool growth in

improved breeds of sheep (Hutchinson, 1976).

2. A low plane o f nutrition has been found to delay the seasonal shedding in

cattle and retards the sub-adult and adult moults in voles (Pinter, 1968). In

non-shedding sheep, e.g.. Merino, the effects of plane o f nutrition are many

and varied, as reviewed by (Ryder and Stephenson, 1968; Chapman e t

a/., 1973 and Allden, 1979). Poor nutrition can reduce follicle initiation and

development in the fetus, impair postnatal follicle maturation in lambs, and

depress fleece weight, fibre length and fibre thickness in adult animals.

However, the nutrition has to be extremely poor before catagen and telogen

can be induced nutritionally in follicles in adult sheepl The protein, amino

acid, carbohydrate, fat, vitamin and mineral contents o f the diet can also

affect hair and wool growth in a variety o f ways, depending on whether there

is an excess or a deficiency.

3. Temperature has modifying effects on seasonal moulting. Low

temperature delays the spring moult in some wild species, appears to be

required for the growth of a white winter coat by the mountain hare,

increases the density of the winter pelage of wild species and the depth of the

winter coat of cattle and may stimulate the wool growth of shorn sheep (Ling,

1970; Hutchinson, 1976; Johnson, 1976; Bottomley, 1979),

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4. The effect of increase in age on the pelage o f various wild species has

been reviewed by Ling (1970). The establishment o f the adult pelage in some

species requires several moults, and sometimes one of these moults may be

omitted by animals born late in the breeding season. With increasing age the

patterns of the adult moults change. Likewise in the mouse the successive

hair waves change in pattem and becomes less frequent with age. In non:

shedding sheep, fleece weights are heaviest at ca. 3 Vs years of age and

subsequently decline together with fibre lengthy, while fibre thickness

increases with age. Also deterioration of staple crimp occurs in an increasing

proportion o f older sheep, due to abnormal cell proliferation and cyst

formation in the proximal outer root sheath of the follicles.

5. Among the most noticeable effects on hair growth produced by a variety

of exogenous chem icals are alopecia and change in pigmentation (Flesch,

1963; Ebling and Rook, 1968; Ippen. 1970; Chapman, 1980; Chapman et

a/.,1982). Attempts have been made to utilize chemically induced hair loss for

the biological harvesting o f wool (Chapman and Rigby, 1980; Moore et

a/.,1981; Hods e t a t.,1983) and for epilating Angora rabbits (Rougeot and

Thebault, 1970).

Effects of age on hair

About 70% o f men above the age o f 50 years face balding and greying of

hair. In some, these symptoms of age arrive much earlier. The new-born

babies usually possess hair that are fine, soft, downy, non-pigmented, non-

medulated and with smooth edged flattered scales. These get slowly

replaced by comparatively less fine pigmented, non-medulated and with a

more complex scale pattern. At about 14 years in the male and 13 years in

female, pubic hair begin to appear. The axillary hair appear a year later. In the

beginning, the growth of hair is sparse and its colour lighter. In about one or

two years, the growth of hair becomes thick and the colour darker. The sex

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hormones, collectively called the androgens e.g. dehydro epl-androsterone,

androstandione and testosterone secreted in female and testosterone,

dihydrotestosterone, progesterone, etc. in male show their relationship with

growth o f hair in normal individuals.

The growth o f hair at eyebrows and eyelashes are not dependent on

androgen. While axillary and lower pubic hair are sensitive to the small

amounts of androgen secreted by the adrenal glands. Hair in these regions,

therefore, grows approximately equally in men and women. Hair begin to

appear on the chin and upper lip in males between 16 to 18 years. Baldness

o f scalp is not of much value nor the graying of hair, except in a general way.

Greying starts on the scalp at about forty years first at the temples, followed

later by the beard and moustache and still later the chest. Axillary and pubic

hair never turn grey before fifty to sixty years. As age advances, scalp hair

become less dense in the male and there is loss o f axillary hair in the female.

The age at which a person's hair turns grey is largely decided by heredity. But

premature loss o f pigment in adults may be caused by a variety o f other

factors, including illness, certain drugs, worriness, even shock and it is

irreversible. However, if hair turns white In childhood, it can be a result o f

malfunction in the body and medical advice is called for. Vigorous bmshing

can cause hair splits, breaks or uprooting. Washing of hair is essential for

them to gleam with a healthy sheen.

Some com m on diseases o f hair

Protein energy malnutrition and parasitic diseases bring out stmctural

changes in the hair. Dandmff is caused by infection of Pityrosporum ovale.

Any inflammatory or destructive disease of the skin on scalp may destroy hair

follicles in its wake. Thus, burns, heavy X-ray irradiation, or ringworm

infections and similar other events rnay cause a scarring alopecia. Alopecia in

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the presence o f normal scalp skin may be patchy and localized or extensive

when the skin is diseased. Ring worm of the scalp is caused by fungal

infection and is most common in children. The disease causes oval areas of

baldness covered with short, broken-off lusterless hair stumps. Premature

hair loss or baldness in men is genetically determined and requires adequate

levels of circulating androgen for expression. Baldness in women occurs only

in old age. Hair are also lost due to the infection of lice.

Measurement of hair growth

The biological parameters which constitute the trichogram are :

1. Rate o f g ro w th ( - increase in length /10 days): A small area, about 0.05

cm^ of the region to be studied, is shaved with a razor. Ten days later, the

increase in length o f the shaved hairs is measured in situ using a

microscope with an ocular micrometer calibrated In 0.05 mm graduations.

Measurements are made by applying the instalment directly to the

patient's scalp. Since hair stumps stand erect, a glass slide is used to

flatten the hairs against the scalp. Three to five measurements are taken

and the results are averaged.

2. H a ir d e n s ity (number o f hairs /cm^). For this measurement a

microscope with a x 60 magnification is used with eye piece markings for

1/20 cm^ areas. Lateral illumination is provided by a light source

connected to the base of the microscope. Hairs are counted in a given

number o f fields (three to five) and the results are averaged and

expressed as the number of haire /cm^. When the density Is to be

determined in regions of lower hair density (axilla, pubis, etc.) the study of

this parameter Is performed with an eyepiece marked with a 1 cm^ area .

3. State o f h a ir cyc le : For this determination hairs are plucked off using

forceps whose jaws are wrapped with adhesive tape. This facilitates

280

grasping o f hairs of different thickness. The proximal root segments o f the

hairs are cut, placed over a slide, and covered with a drop o f Canadian

balsam and a cover glass. The different phases of the hair cycle are

identified and counted under the microscope.

Another method for determination of the phases {i.e., "state") of the cycle

is bleaching o f the hairs. Under the effect of hydrogen peroxide in alkaline'

medium, the proximal parts of the hair shafts are bleached in their visible

extension from the skin. Bleaching involves hairs in different stages of

the cycle.

Hair nourishment and grooming

Hair nourishment and grooming aids have become increasingly popular

throughout the world. Preparations available in the market for men include

hair creams, liquid brilliantines, pomades and solid brilliantines, tonics,

lotions and conditioners and for women wave sets, hair sprays, special rinses

and lotions, brilliantines and conditioners. There are number o f herbal

plants, utilized in hair care formulations. Examples are given below.

The herbal plants which are used in hair-care formulations can be classified

in the following groups :

(I) Plants used as lia ir cleanser (ii) Plants used as ha ir dyeing agent

(ill) Plants used as anti dandru ff and (Iv) Plants used as ha ir ton lc /ha ir

health p rom otion o f grow th.

(i) P lants used as ha ir cleanser

(a) A cac ia co n c in n a (Shikakai). Ground pod wall is boiled in water and

resulting soapy water, is used as a hair cleanser.

281

(b) C ydonia o b lo n g a (Bihi). The mucilage of cleaned seeds is extracted with

hot water and used as a shampoo.

(c) S ap indus m u k o rro s s i (Ritha). Fruit coat is boiled in water and the soapy

water thus obtained is used as a natural shampoo

(d) TrigoneUa foenum -g raecum (Methi). Seeds in coarse powdered form

are boiled in water and filtrate is used as an ingredient o f natural

shampoos.

(11) Plants used as hair dyeing agent

(a) A cacia a rab ica (Kikkar). Fresh or dried leaves are made into aqueous

paste and applied as a pack to hair of head as such or after mixing with

coffee, babul bark extract (Cassia nilotica), Katha (Acacia catechu) and

walnut fruit shell extract (Juglans regia) to impart shades o f colours

varying from red to dark brown.

(b) C ydonia o b lon g a (Bihi). The seeds mucilage paste with sesame oil is

applied on the head to dye the hair.

(c) E clip ta a lba (Bhringraj). Dried aqueous extract o f whole plant, mixed with

sesame oil and subbed on hair to dye the hair.

(d) H aem atoxy lon cam pech ianum (Patang). Dried aqueous extract o f wood

(1 kg) with 10 0 ml o f sesame oil is used for hair drying.

(e) H ib iscu s ro sa s in e n s is (Gudhal). Its dried alcoholic extract of leaves is

mixed with other ingredients, henna catechu, coffee, amla, jatamansi, etc.

and applied on hair to impart shades to colour from dark brown to

blackish brown.

282

(f) J u g la n s reg ia (Akhrot). Its fresh or dried leaves or dried bark or hulls of

fruits are made into aqueous paste with other material, e.g., Katha {Acacia

Catectiu), Coffee ( ) , etc. and applied as a paste to hair. It produces red to

dark brown shades of colour to hair.

(g) Law son ia in e rm is (Henna). Fresh or dried leaves are made into

aqueous paste and applied as a pack to hair after mixing with coffee( ),'

Catechu {Acacia catechu) wall nut fmit shell extract, babul bark extract

(Cassia abrabica), Bhringraj {Eclipta alba) etc. to impart shades of colour

varying from red to dark brown.

(h) P te ro ca rp us in d ic u s (Nara). The whole plant ( 1kg) is extracted with hot

water, filtered. The filtrate is dried and mixed with 100 ml o f sesame oil. It

is applied daily on hair to gave a back colour.

(i) R ub ia tin c to ru m (Bacho). The whole plant (1 kg) is extracted with hot

water, filtered and the filtrate is dried and mixed with 1 0 0 ml of sesame

oil. It is applied daily on hair to impart black shade of colour.

(j) Sanssurea la ppa (Kuth / Kust). The dried alcoholic extract of root is

mixed with other herbs and applied on hair, in the form of paste, to give a

dark brownish black colour.

(k) Term ina lia be le rica (Behera). Its seed oil is applied on the hair for

blackening them.

(I) T inospora c o rd ifo lia (Giloe). It is used with gokhru (1:1) in fine powder.

The powder (5 gm) is ingested with honey thrice daily for blackening of

hair.

283

(iii) P lan ts u s e d as a n ti d a n d ru ff agen ts

(a) A rc tin m la p pa (Great burdock). Its roots are kept in 70% alcohol for 5

days, then filtered, the filtrate is diluted with distilled water. This is used

for massaging the scap daily. It is beneficial in removal of dandruff.

(b) B etu la p e n d u la (Birch). Its fresh or dried leaves are extracted in 70%'

alcohol for 3 days and filtered. The filtrate is used daily for massaging of

scalp, which prevents dandmff.

(c) C alendu la o ff ic ia ls (Gule-abbas). Alcoholic (70%) extract o f its flowers is

mixed with hair oils, shampoos and creams. These preparations are used

to cure the dandruff.

(d) U rtica d io ic a (Stinging nettle). The fresh or dried leaves (100g) are

dipped in 300 ml of 70% alcohol and distilled water. So that solution will

cover the plant material. The solution is kept for 3-5 days and filtered:

daily 1-2 spoons of filtrate is applied on the head. It gives relief from

dandruff.

(iv) P lan ts u se d as h a ir to n ic /h a ir n o u ris h a r

(a) A nn ica m o n ta n a (Arnica) Dried alcoholic (70%) extract o f the flower is

mixed with vegetable oil and applied on hair, it prevents the falling of hair.

(b) C entella a s ia tic a (Mandukarparni). Dried aqueous extract o f whole plant

is mixed with till oil and applied on hair. It enhances the growth of hair.

(c) C ocus n u c ife ra (Nariyal). The oil is rubbed on head. It is also a base for

various hair oil formulations.

284

(d) E c lip ta a lba (Bhringraj). The dried aqueous extract of the whole plant Is

mixed with sesame oil and rubbed on hair. It is used as a nourisher to

hair.

(e) M orus a lba (Shatoot). The fruits (lOOg) are extracted with hot water and

filtered through a cloth. The filtrate (20ml) is ingested orally twice daily. It

prevents the premature and greying of hair.

(f) N a rd os ta ch ys ja ta m a n s i (Jatamansi). The rhizome is extracted with

water, made the extract alkaline by addition o f ammonia and applied on

hair. It promotes the growth o f hair and also imparts black colour to hair.

(g) P h y lla n th u s e m b lica (Amla). Its dried aqueous extract is mixed with

sesame oil and applied on hair. It promote the hair growth. When its

aqueous extract is kept in iron pen for 3 days, then this can be used with

henna, hibiscus, Catechu, etc. as a hair dye which produces black shades

In hair.

(h) P ilo ca rp u s ja b o ra n d l (jaborandi). Its dried alcoholic extract of leaves is

mixed with vegetable oil. It helps in thick and healthy growth o f hair.

(i) Thym us s e rp y llu m (Benajwain). Both alcoholic and aqueous extracts of

whole herb are used as a hair tonic, which imparts healthy and then

growth of hair.

285

Hair ton ics

About 70% isopropanol applied as a hair tonic after shampooing has an

effect on the process of lipid restitution (Gloor e t a/.. 1973). Lipid levels are

incased in the distal part of the hair if spirituous hair tonic is applied on the

day after shampooing. This may be explained by a transfer o f scalp lipids to

the distal part o f the hair. On the second day, 16% less lipids are traceable

after the application of hair tonic. Thus the application of spirituous hair tonic

makes the hair seem fattier at first, but it then probably o f slows the

process of lipid restitution. Aqueous hair tonics are also probably effective in

the same way (Gloor, et al. 1974).

286

MATERIALS AND METHODS

EXPERIMENTAL

A. Hair dye formulation

1. Preparation o f aqueous herbal extracts from powdered d rug

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis leaves (250 g), Nardostachys jatamansi rhizomes

(250 g), Saussarea lappa roots (250 g), Amla (250 g) and Kattha (250 g) were

extracted with distilled water for 72 hours. The aqueous extracts were dried

on steam bath under vacuum to get dark coloured masses ( 5-10 %).

2. Preparation o f fo rm ula tion

The quantities o f dried aqueous extracts and powdered herbs were taken as

mentioned in the Table 8.1. All the ingredients were mixed in sufficient

quantity o f distilled water to prepare uniform viscous pastes (Table 8.1)

3. A pp lica tion o f fo rm ula tions on sheep w ool fibe rs

The sheep wool (natural) coil, collected from Ludhiana market, Punjab, was

cut into small pieces and washed with petroleum ether four times to remove

fatty materials. The wool pieces were dipped into each formulation in a

beaker for one hour. The wool pieces were dried and then washed with

distilled water. The washed wool fibers were divided into three categories to

observed the affects o f room temperature, sunlight and natural detergent.

287

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Plate 8.2

1 2 3 M 5 6 7 8 3 l o 1 1 U 1 5 l f

Plate 8.3

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 iil5 lif

Plate 8.4

1 2 3 ^ 3 6 7 8 9 10 11 -12.15 1*f

Effect of Room temperature on coloured sheep wool threads

Plate 8.5

“ 1 '

I Plate 8.6

4 5 6 7 8 s

1 2 3 ^ 5 6 7 8 9 1 0 1 1 1 2 .1 5 W

Plate 8.7

Effect of sunlight on coloured sheep wool threads

290

Plate 8.8

1213 1H

Plate 8.9

Plate 8.10

Effect of natural detergent on coloured sheep wool threads

291

a. Effect of room temperature on coloured wool fibers

The coloured wool fibers were pasted on a white paper sheet covered with

transparent cellophane sheet and then kept for 30 days at room temperature

at the interval of 0, 15 and 30 days photographs were taken

(Plates 8.2-8.4).

b. Effect of sunlight on coloured wool fibers

The coloured wool fibers were pasted on a white paper sheet, covered with a

transparent cellophane sheet and kept in open sunlight for two hours daily for

30 days. At the interval of 0, 15 and 30 days photographs were taken

(Plates 8.5-8.7).

c. Effect of natural detergent on coloured wool fibers

A 30 % w/v aqueous solution of Reetha ( Sapindus mukorrossi ) was

prepared. The coloured wool fibers were-washed with the Reetha aqueous

solution for one minute on alternate days and their photographs were, taken

on 0.15 and 30'*’ days (P^^s"8;8^.10).

4. Clinical trial of hair dye formulations

Six formulations HD - 1, HD-3, HD-4, HD-1-1 HD-13 and HD-14 were

selected. One each formulation was applied to a group of 25 volunteers. The

formulations were applied on hair of volunteers and air dried for 2 hours and

washed off with water. All these formulations were also tested for patch test

(allergic reactions).

Patcli test.

A small quantity of paste is applied on the back of ear. After 15 minutes this

paste is removed and the area is watched carefully. If there was irritation/

allergic reaction, the application of that formulation was avoided.

292

TS of rabbit skin showing

hairfoiiicle, matrix ceii root

sheath, vasicuiar nuclei with >

Plate 8.11

formulation HN-1.

Plate 8.12

TS of rabbit skin showing

hairfoiiicle, matrix cell root

sheath, vasicuiar nuclei with

formulation HN-2.

Plate 8.13

TS of rabbit skin showing

hair follicle, matrix cell root

sheath, vasicuiar nuclei with

fomiulation HN-3.

293

TS o f rabbit skin show ing

hair fo llic le , m atrix cell root

sheath, vas icu la r nucle i w ith

form ula tion HN-4.

Plate 8.14

Plate 8.15

TS o f rabb it skin show ing

hair fo llic le , m atrix cell root

sheath, vasicu la r nuclei w ith

form ula tion HN-5.

Plate 8.16

TS o f rabb it skin show ing

ha ir fo llic le , m atrix cell root

V sheath, vas icu la r nuclei w ith

. fo rm u la tion HN-5.

294

TS o f rabb it sk in show ing

ha ir fo llic le , m atrix cell root

sheath, vas icu la r nucle i w ith

form ula tion HN-6 .

Plate 8.17

Plate 8.18

TS o f rabb it sk in show ing

hair fo llic le , m atrix cell root

sheath, vas icu la r nucle i w ith

contro l (coconu t oil).

295

B. Hair Nourisher formulations

1. Prepara{!^ of hair nourishing formulation

One or more dried powders of N. jatamansi. S. lappa and H. rosa sinensis

were m ix^ with coconut oil (Table 8.2). Coconut oil was also used as a

blank formulation for comparative study.

The air dried coarsely powdered drug was/were mixed in coconut oil, warmed

at 6- - 70° C on a water bath for 5 - 6 hours and then kept at room

temperature for 72 hours. The material was filtered through an absorbent

cotton pad. ][he filtrate was kept in an air tight container (sufficient quantity of

anti-oxidant was added). Coconut oil was used as a blank application.

2. Application of formulations on animals

Rabbits,w^e selected for application. Three rabbits were used for each

formulation.. Rabbits’ hair were shaved with razor at three places. One spot

was used for formulation, second spot for the use of blank (coconut oil) and

third spot for observing nomial growth of hair. All the seven formulations were

applied on the hair removed portion of each group of rabbits daily for 30

days. After the interval of 7.14, 21, 28 days length of hair of each rabbit was

measured and a small portion of skin was dissected from each portion of

application and control which contained hair root, after giving local

anaesthetic to the rabbits (one from each group). TTie histological studies of

these dissected skin pieces of rabbits were prepared. These slides were

examined under trinocular research microscope and their photographs were

taken with the help of camera (Plates 8.11 - 8.18).

296.

Table 8.2. Preparation of Herbal hair nourishing formulations from

herbal powders

Formulation Nardostachys Sausurea Hibiscus Coconut Others (ml)

jatamansi (g) lappa (g) rosa oil (ml) ^

'sinensis

(9)

HN-1 - - 50 50 -

HN-2 - 50 - 50^ -

HN-3 50 - - 50 0.5 (a. b)

HN^ - 50 50 100 0.5 (c)

HN-5 50 - 100 0.5 (d)

HN-6 50 - 50 100 -

HN-7 50 50 50 150 -

a - volatile oil of jatamansi

b ' volatile oil of lemon peel

c - volatile oil of orange peel

d - volatile oil of cymbopogon grass

297

Plate 8.19

Plate 8.20

Plate 8.21

Photographs showing the human hair growth

29 8

Three formulations, HN-3, HN-4 and HN -5, were selected out o f these seven

formulations and were applied on a group o f 3 persons. Skull hair o f one

person from each group were shaved with razor from three different places.

Each formulation was applied daily for 30 days (P la tes 8.19 -8.21), along

with the controlled preparation. The third place was kept w ithout form ulation

and coconut oil. A fter an interval of 7,14,21,28 days the length o f ha ir o f

each group was measured. Before applying formulations to these volunteers,

all were tested for patch test/ allergic reaction test. It was found that all the

formulations were free from any allergic reaction in the ir application to human

skin.

3. Application of formulations on human beings

299

OBSERVATIONS

Six hair dye formulations, wz., HD-1 , HD-3, HD-4, HD-11, HD-13 and HD-

14, out of 14 formulations blackened better colourless sheep wool threads

then the individual herbal extracts. The black colouring capacity o f the

formulation HD-3 was maximum. The black colour remained fo r the longest,

duration o f period when the fibers kept at room temperature, in sun light and

washed with natural detergent, the order o f blackening wool fibers by the

herbal formulations was in order o f HD-3 > HD-4 > HD-1 > HD-13 > HD-14

> HD-11.

The black colour retaining power o f the fibers retained for sixty days at room

temperature (Plates 8.2 -8.4). In sun light, the colour stain faided gradually.

After 15 days, the stain remained half of the original stain. It indicated that

UV rays present in sun light effected the hair stain/hair dye (P la tes 8.5 - 8.7).

Washing o f the coloured fibers with the natural detergent on alternate days

did not affect the stain o f the threads. The black colour o f the thread d ipped in

fomriulatlon HD-11 completely faded within 30 days. In other cases the colour

started fading after 25 days. The colour intensities o f thread dipped in

formulations HD-13 and HD-14 became half whereas the intensities o f the

colours o f fibers blackened with HD-1 and HD-4 were lesser then ha lf after

35 days (P lates 8.8 - 8.10). These six formulations were prepared in bulk

quantities, six group o f volunteers o f different age groups were constituted

and each group had 25 volunteers. Each formulation was applied on the

scalp o f 25 volunteers for two hours, air dried and then washed w ith water.

The results were observed daily for 30 days. The percentage o f acceptance

o f these formulations by different groups o f volunteers is given in Table 8.3.

The formulation HD -3 was the most accepted hair dyeing form ulation and

the percentage acceptance was 96 %. The percentage o f acceptance o f the

300

herbal formulations was in the order : HD-3 > HD-4 > HD-1>HD-13 > HD-14 >

HD-11.

Table 8.3. Volunteers percentage for the various formulations of natural

hair dye.

S.N. Formulation No. of volunteers accepting the formulation

% o f acceptance

1 HD-1 2 1 84.00

2 HD-3 24 96.00

3 H D - 4 22 88.00

4 HD-11 18 72.00

5 HD-13 2 1 84.00

6 HD-14 20 80.00

Each formulation was applied to a group of 25 volunteers.

The growth of hair length of those rabbits was maximum when the

formulations HN-3 was applied to their skin. The order of the growth o f the

hair with the application o f the herbal formulation was in the o rd e r:

HN-3 > HN-7 > HN-6 > HN-5 > HN-4 > HN-1 > HN-2 (Table 8.4 - 8.7).

301

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The size hair root was maximum with the formulation HN-3 and followed by

HN-7. HN-6 , HN-5, HN-4, HN-1 and HN-2. In all cases size o f hair roots was

larger than the control one.

Matrix cell

In the hair bulbs, there was maximum increase o f the cells o f hair matrix in

case o f HN-3 formulation. These cells were having large vesicular nuclei and

the basophilic cytoplasm. The number o f the cells were in the following

decreasing order HN-7. HN-6 , HN-5, HN-4, HN-1 and HN-2. With HN-4. HN-1

and HN-2 the number o f hair matrix cells were similar.

Fo llic le papila

The follicle papila was prominent and large in all the test formulation in

comparison to control one. H ow ever, it was maximum in HN-3.

Root sheath

The outer root sheath constituted by clear cells and these were more

prominent in HN-3 and HN-6 . The Henle’s layer was equally prominent and

thick in all test formulations than control.

C oncentra tion o f ha ir

The number o f hair follicle appeared to be maximum per unit area in HN-3.

followed by HN-7, HN-6 . HN-5 , HN-4. HN-1 and HN-2. In case o f all test

formulations numbers o f hair were significantly higher than the control.

However, enlargement o f the Hair follicle with increase in proliferation o f

different cellular components were identical in all the test formulations (P la tes

8 . 1 1 -8.18).

Size of hair root

306

The formulation HN-3, HN-4 and HN-5 were tested on three groups o f human

beings having three members/ volunteers in each group. The length o f hair

measured from all three formulations {Plates 8.19- 8.21). Regular growth w as

reported from these three formulations were the maximum growth (length) o f

hair was from formulation HN-3 (Table 8.8 - 8 .1 1 ).

Table 8 .8 . M easurem ent o f Human Hair a fte r one w eek (leng th in mm)

S.No. Condition Formulations

HN-3 H N -4 HN-5

1 H air growtli Aj B |, Cl A j B 2 , C2 A jB j, C 3

(N orm al) (Average) (A verage) (A verage)

2.71 2.69 2.72

2 Hair grow th w itli control sam ple 2.77 2.72 2.78

3 H air grow th w ith form ulation 2.98 2 . 8 8 2.82

Ai -As. B i - Ba, C i - C3 Stands for human beings.

Table 8.9. Measurement o f Human Hair after second week (length in mm)

S.No. Condition Formulations

HN-3 HN-4 H N -5

1 H air grow th A | B |, Ci A 2 B j, Cl A j B j, C 3

(Norm al) (Average) (A verage) (A verage)

5.32 5.28 5.36

2 H air grow th w ith control sam ple 5.52 5.48 5.54

3 H air grow th witli form ulation 6 . 0 1 5.74 5.66

Ai -A3, Bi - 8 3 , Cl - C3 stands for human beings.

307

Table 8.10. Measurement of Human Hair after third week (length in mm)

S.No. Condition Formulations

HN-3 HN-4 HN-5

1 Hair growth A|_B|, Cl Az.8 2 , C 2 A 3.B3 , C j(Normal) (Average) (Average) (A verage)

8.16 8.09 8.18

2 Hair growth witli control sam ple 8.32 8.18 8.36

3 Hair growUi w ith formulation 8.98 8.69 8.48

Ai -A3, Bi - 03 , Ci - C3 stands for human beings.

Table 8.11, Measurement of Human Hair after fourth week (length in mm)

S.No. Condition Formulations

HN-3 HN-4 HN-5

1 H air growth Ai Bi, C | A 2 B 2, Cj A3 .B}, C 3

(Normal) (Average) (Average) (A verage)

10.76 10.73 10.82

2 H air growth with control sample 10.98 10.92 11.14

3 H air growtli with formulation 11.98 11.54 11.32

Ai 'A 3, Bi - B3, Ci - Ca star\ds for human beings.

308

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS

In case o f hair dye formulations, the best fornriulation was HD-3 out o f 14

formulations. This formulations gave good results on sheep wool threads as

well as on the human hair. Nardostachys ja ta m a n s i has been already

reported fo r blackening o f hair. The black colour o f hair (from dye) was

increased with the addition o f other herbal ingredients, i.e.. H ib iscus rosa

sinensis, Saussurea lappa and Lawsonia inerm is to the formulations. These

herbs acted synergically whereas in case o f formulations for hair growth the

formulation HN-3, which is having N ardostachys ja ta m a n s i w ith

volatile oils o f jatamansi and lemon peel, gave good response and the

maximum hair growth was observed from this formulation followed by

formulation HN-5 and HN-4, respectively. In formulation HN-5, there were two

herbs, namely N ardostachys ja tam an s i and Saussurea lappa, but this

formulation was not able to increase the length o f hair. The length o f hair was

somewhat equal to HN-3 formulation. In formulation HN-4, formulated by

adding Hib iscus rasa sinensis and Saussurea lappa, was not able to g ive the

length o f hair equal to that o f formulation HN-3. The formulation HN-3 and

HN-4 were also very effective against dandm ff hair m ight be due to the

present o f lemon and orange volatile oil.

In rabbits, the formulation HN-3 caused the enlargement o f hair follicle with

hyperplasia o f cellular constituents which was proportional to hair length.

309

REFERENCES

Allden, W.G. Feed intake, d ie t com position and w ool grow th. In : Black, J.L.;

Reis, P.J. (eds) Physio log ica l and environm ental lim ita tions to w oo l grow th.

University o f New England Publishing Unit, Armidale, pp 61-78,1979.

Ambasta, S.T. Useful p lants o f India, RID, CSIR, New Delhi, 1986.

Bottomley, G.A. W eather conditions and wool grow th. In : Black, J.L., Reis,

P.J. (eds) Physiologica l and environm ental lim ita tions to w oo l grow th.

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Brunner, H.; Brunner, A.; Gerendas, J. A fraction fronn oxidized wool with a

high tyrosine content. Appl. Polym. Symp., 18, 55-64, 1971.

Chapman, R.E. A com parison o f the effects o f som e defleec ing com pounds

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Chapman, R.E.; Panaretto, B A ; Frith, P.A. Changes in wool follicles o f

sheep following administration of dexamethasone trimethylacetate, J. C e ll

Sc/., 53, 323-325,1982.

Chapman, R.E.; Rigby, R.D.G. Effects of internally administered N- [5-(4-

aminophenoxy) pentyl] phthalimide on wool folicles and skin o f sheep. A ust.

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Chopra, R.N.; Nayar, S.L., Chopra, I.C. Glossary o f Indian Medicinal Plants,

CSIR, New Delhi, 1956.

Crewther, W.G. Prim ary structure and chem ical p roperties o f wool. In :

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