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Wool dress by Lanvin. Kid-leather gloves by Carolina
Amato. Makeup colors: 1 Couleur Eyeshadow in Flash Black, Crayon Eyeliner Pencil
in Black, and Rouge Dior Lipcolor in Ara Red by
Dior. Hair: Guido. These pages: Makeup, Fulvia
Farolfi; manicure, Tatyana Molot. Prop stylist:
Viki Rutsch of Mary Howard Studio. Fashion editor: Siobhan Bonnouvrier.
Details, see Credits page.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEX CAYLEY
MASTERSHEADEvery artist has a signatureâeven those whose medium is hair. Here, six of the biggest talents re-create the hairstyles that have made them famous on actress Amber Valletta. By Alyssa Kolsky Hertzig
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CREATING THE HAIR FOR MORE THAN 30 FASHION SHOWS each season, Guido has become one of the busiest runway stylists in the businessâand the driving force behind many of the major trends. Whether heâs shellacking a pair of pigtails (Prada) or weaving a waist-length braid (Alexander Wang), he is known for making traditional styles feel radical and new. âMy aesthetic is based on classic hairstyles, but I always try to put a new twist on them,â he says. This rebellious streak took hold during his years on the London club scene in the â80s, where he was surrounded by offbeat characters. âI was always attracted to hair that would be perceived as quite badly done,â he says. Guido spent nearly 15 years as a stylist there. Then, just as the supermodel era was ending and the grunge moment was about to take hold, he was asked by Calvin Klein to work on the designerâs pivotal fall 1994 fashion show and ads starring Kate Moss. âThat sort of deconstructed beauty was kind of a revolution at the time,â he says. âIt seems very tame now, but even 16 years ago, to have a girl with no makeup and scruffy hair in a fashion campaign was something else.â
Guido
Whether itâs a big, glamorous updo or perfectly tousled surfer-girl waves, the work of an
amazing hairstylist can be as instantly identifiable as a John Currin nude. âIf Iâm known for big hair, then Iâm very happy about that,â says hairstyl-ist Serge Normant. âItâs better to be known for something than nothing at all.â But donât confuse developing a trademark with falling into a rut: The six pros on these pages have always struck that elusive balance between cultivating a distinct look and pro-ducing beautiful, creative innova-tions. But fortunately, unlike other artists, they donât sign their work.
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âWHEN YOU SEE HAIR ADS, THE TEXTURES ARE ALWAYS BIG AND RICH,â says Normant. âThatâs what women want.â Good thing, considering that has become this Frenchmanâs calling card. It has also earned him a long list of famous, loyal clients, including Julia Roberts and Sarah Jessica Parkerâboth of whom, perhaps not so coincidentally, have become known for luscious, touchable waves. Normant developed this opulent aesthetic in the 1960s, when he was a young boy in the suburbs of Paris. âWhen I looked at women, there was a certain kind of glamour there on a daily basisâa
kind of glamour that women didnât really go out without,â he says, citing Catherine Deneuve and Marisa Berenson as early influences. âBig hair brings me back to that time.â After working in salons in Paris, he moved to New York City in the late 1980s, where his roommate, makeup artist Laura Mercier, took him to shoots; it wasnât long before Normant became known for his ability to go big. âI love women looking like women,â he says. âWhen I see someone walking down the street and they have that great, voluminous hair flying? Thereâs a sexiness and a sensuality to it.â
Serge Normant
âShowing your natural texture or a little
bit of teasingâthese are the charms in a
hairstyle,â Guido says. Hereâs how he
advises mussing things up properly.
âWhen I see someone with that great, voluminous hair? Thereâs a sensuality to it.â
TEASE IT Guido suggests roughly blow-drying the hair. Then, holding sections of hair by the ends, take a flat brush (he likes Mason Pearsonâs) and gently tease each section toward the root.GO NATURAL âA lot of women have beautiful natural texture, but they grab a blow-dryer so quickly they donât really know whatâs there,â he says. Try letting hair air-dry
without touching it at all. STAY IN CONTROL A little roughness is pretty; total unruliness isnât. To tame coarse hair, Guidoâwho is the creative consultant for Redkenârecommends working in the companyâs Anti-Snap Leave-In Treatment while itâs damp. For fine hair, spritz Redken Forceful 23 Finishing Spray into your hand, then rub it through dry hair for hold.
Adding Texture to Your Hair
GUIDOâS FAVORITE LOOKS
PRADA, SPRING 2009
âThis is a classic chignon with the
overuse of Redken Forceful 23
Finishing Spray, which coated it in shine. It became
this glossy sculpture and
made the chignon look new.â
PRADA, SPRING 2010 âWith these
schoolgirl bunches, I used hair spray
and made them look more sophisticated
and newer to the eye than if I had
left them soft and romantic. That
was something I was into for
a few seasons.â
VOGUE, FEBRUARY 2010 âI originally did this braid for Alexander Wang, which turned into one of my most successful hair looks for a show. It has connotations of girlie-ness, hippiedom, rock and rollâall the things that girls want to be.â
ALLURE, MAY 2008 âThis was a take on an uptown woman. Itâs all her hairâand a lot of teasing.â
LINDSAY LOHAN, ALLURE, MARCH 2006
âShe had these very model-like movements, and
we used a lot of wind.â
JULIA ROBERTS AT THE ACADEMY AWARDS, 2004
âJulia has the most amazing hair. I never use hair extensions with her for the red carpet. Never.â
SARAH JESSICA PARKERâS COVET FRAGRANCE AD, 2007 âThat might actually be
one of my favorite pictures for a campaign. I just love everything: the dress, the gloves; I love
the way the hair just, like, goes crazy.â
MARIAH CAREYâS BUTTERFLY ALBUM, 1997
âThat was the first time I worked with her. Itâs that healthy hair you want to run your hands through.â
NORMANTâS FAVORITE LOOKS
Guido at the fall 2010 Marc Jacobs show
!To get the inside scoop on more of the top hairstylistsâ signature looks, log on to allure.com/go/signature_hairstyles.
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CONCENTRATE VOLUMIZER AT THE ROOTS AND THE CROWN âYou can add a little to the ends, but
you want most of it where youâre going to create the lift,â says Normant,
who prefers the weightlessness of spray volumizers. (His pick:
Serge Normant Mega Lush Volumizer, from his new product line.)
GRAB YOUR DRYER âTo save time, flip your head upside
down and blow it until your hair is nearly dry,â he says. Then take
random sections, pull each taut with a big, round brush, and slowly run your dryer down it to smooth it.
TIME TO TEASE âTeasing can be invisible,â says Normant. Work on just a two-
inch section at the crown, then hide your work by smoothing an
unteased section over it and misting it all with hair spray.
SIlk-and-lace bodysuit by Dolce & Gabbana. Suede pumps by Sergio Rossi. Makeup colors: The Eyeshadow Duo in Stromboli, The Eyeliner in Black, and The Lipstick in Charm by Dolce & Gabbana. Hair: Serge Normant of the Serge Normant at John Frieda salon. Details, see Credits page.
Normant may pull out the hair extensions for a model on a
shoot, but for real life, he achieves volume with fewer props.
How to Get Big Hair
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Bikini top by Eres. Bikini bottom by Michael Kors. Makeup colors: LiquilineBlast Eyeliner in Black Fire and Continuous Color Lipstick in Almost Nude by Cover Girl. Hair: Chris McMillan of Chris McMillan, The Salon. Details, see Credits page.
The secret is making sure the results donât look perfect. âThe
goal should be those waves you really end up with when youâre
at the beach,â McMillan says.
IF YOU HAVE STRAIGHT HAIR: Twirl sections around a curling iron,
then tug on the end of each curl as itâs cooling. âThis makes it more of
a wave,â says McMillan. Once youâve done your whole head, âmess
up the curlsâ with your hands and dab an alcohol-free mousse
throughout to add body.
IF YOU HAVE CURLS OR WAVES: Start by blowing out your hair with a
round brush. Then simply apply a few spritzes of saltwater spray or water.
âThis will bring back the natural curl, but very slightly,â he says.
How to Get Beachy Waves
MCMILLANâS FAVORITE LOOKS
NICOLE KIDMAN ON THE TONIGHT SHOW WITH JAY LENO, 2003
âI did a falling-out, haphazard ponytail off to the side with a ribbon. She loves ribbons.â
GWYNETH PALTROW AT THE ACADEMY
AWARDS, 2005 âThe night before, I bought
drugstore hair color and did her roots, then
highlighted it. We were going to put her hair
up, but her zipper broke, so this hid it.â
NICOLE RICHIE, ALLURE, 2006
âAdorable. We faked a bob by pinning her
hair under and letting the top layer hang
over. I cut her hair later that day, but
she got extensions immediately after
the photo shoot. She doesnât like her hair
when itâs short.â
JENNIFER ANISTON, ROLLING STONE, MARCH 1996â âThe Rachelâ is somewhere in there. This was a surprise for usâthe fact that sheâs naked. We thought he was shooting her face!â
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THERE ARE TWO SUREFIRE WAYS TO GET AUTHENTIC-LOOKING BEACHY WAVES: Spend an afternoon in the ocean, or book an appointment with Chris McMillan. âLoose, natural hairâthatâs my thing,â he says. âI like hair that looks touchable and effortless.â Thatâs not to say that McMillanâs approach to styling is laid- back; heâs turned construction and deconstruction into a carefully crafted formula. âI hate when curls look too forced, so Iâll rough them up, pull them in different directions,â says McMillan, who developed this surfer-chick aesthetic growing up in Manhattan Beach and now dishevels some of the most famous California girls around, including Cameron Diaz, Courteney Cox, and Jennifer Aniston. His close 15-year relationship with Aniston started when he snipped some unassuming layers on the then barely known actress. That cut would become, of course, âthe Rachel.â
Chris McMillan
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Stretch-taffeta-and-metal dress by Yigal AzrouĂ«l. Makeup colors: Studio Secrets Professional Eye Shadow in Lush Raven and Colour Riche Lipcolour in Blushing Bouquet by LâOrĂ©al Paris. Hair: Orlando Pita of the Orlo salon. Details, see Credits page.
START WITH DRY HAIR Spray it with T3 Elevate volumizer
(Pita works on this line of products). Brush it through to produce a
rough, thick texture. âWhen youâre putting hair up, it canât be too
clean,â he says. âIf itâs too silky and smooth, it wonât hold.â
PULL THE HAIR BACK Gather it into a basic bun at the nape
of the neck, and pin it in place.
NOW MUSS IT UP âCarefully pull out shorter pieces of
hair around your face and from the bun,â he says. âMake it random.â
Finish by spraying on more T3 Elevateâitâll keep the hair loosely in
place without making it overly stiff in the way hair spray can.
How to Do An Undone Bun
The simplest way to adopt Pitaâs aesthetic is with a soft bun. âItâs
easy because it doesnât have to be perfect in the first place,â he says.
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Orlando PitaâIâVE WORKED MY ENTIRE CAREER TO AVOID HAVING A SIGNATURE STYLE,â says Orlando Pita. âI didnât think I even had one.â Nevertheless, the prolific fashion and celebrity hairstylist has built his reputation on wildly inventive looks that often embrace what he calls a âdone/undoneâ feeling. Whether itâs a soft updo with a few errant wisps, or a head full of deliberately frizzy waves, âI love to create something beautiful and then destroy it,â he says. Pita regularly brings that sense of imperfect ease to magazine shoots, ad campaigns including Gucci and ChloĂ©, and shows for Dior, Michael Kors, and Oscar de la Renta. But it is in his frequent couture collaborations with John Galliano that he really lets loose: Though many stylists prefer to work solely with comfortingly familiar tools like hair spray and gel, Pitaâs couture kit reads more like an art teacherâs shopping list. He often includes balloons, Styrofoam, paint, and powder, whether heâs piling the hair into deconstructed, flower-inspired towers or punctuating eighteenth-century updos with shocking white streaks. âI donât want any of my styles to ever look perfect,â he says, âbecause perfection doesnât exist on any levelâeven in hair.â
PITAâS FAVORITE
LOOKS
MADONNAâS RAY OF LIGHT ALBUM, 1998 âWhen Madonna walked in, she said, âOrlando,
I donât want to sit in your chair for more than 15 minutes.â So I said, âWe
havenât seen your natural wavy hair in a long time, so letâs go with that.ââ
CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE, SPRING 2010 âThe idea was
Marie Antoinette hair. I love that it looks
contemporary, yet â60s. It looks like a beehive.â
CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE, SPRING 2004 âJohn [Galliano]
asked for a square hairdoâand then the
panic seeped in. It was a lot of hot glue, extensions,
and burned fingers.â
CHRISTIAN DIOR COUTURE, SPRING
2010 âWe wrapped extensions around purple
balloons, and as the girls walked, you could see flashes of purple. An assistant popped a
balloon by mistake. I just couldnât look.â
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EARLY-â90S FASHION LAUNCHED MANY ONE-NAME WONDERS: Naomi, Linda, Cindyâand the hairstylist who worked on them, Oribe. But his signature sex-kitten styles feel just as fresh on the Scarletts and PenĂ©lopes he works with today. âI like big, beautiful hairâwith a richness, an extravagance, and a little bit of vulgarity,â he says. (One earlyâand unusualâmuse: Elly May Clampett of The Beverly Hillbillies.) At 18, Oribe moved to New York City to become an actor and supported himself by working at a salonâs front desk. Soon he decided to give styling a try, and before long he was a backstage fixture at the biggest fashion shows of the
decade, including Versace and Thierry Mugler. âThe â90s were all about creating an over-the-top woman,â he says. But once grunge came along, Oribe spent more time in his Miami salon than on the runways. Enter J.Lo. A fan of his work since she was a teenager, Lopez hired him to style her hair for her first album and brought Oribe back into the spotlight. (âThank God for Jennifer!â he says.) Now, more than ten years and countless chignons later, he is still creating memorable looksâfor better or worse. Case in point: that half-up head of curls Lopez wore to the 2002 Oscars. He says with a laugh, âThat oneâs on VH1âs top four or five worst hairdos of all time.â
Oribe
Silk gown by Versace. Makeup colors: Hydro-Powder Eye Shadow in Languid Lagoon, Automatic Fine Eyeliner in Black, and Perfect Rouge Lipstick in Caramel by Shiseido Makeup. Hair: Oribe of Oribe Salon Miami Beach. Details, see Credits page.
!To get the inside scoop on more of the top hairstylistsâ signature looks, log on to allure.com/go/signature_hairstyles.
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Glamorous Updos Made Easy
âUpdos are trickyâthey can either make you look very old, or they
can be incredible,â says Oribe. Hereâs how he makes them sexy:
PREPARE YOUR HAIR âIf you have good texture, the updo should only take two minutes to do,â
says Oribe. Teasing is one approach, but the right product can do it with less
damage. Oribe uses his Dry Texturizing Spray at the roots when hair is
dry (or all over for those with fine hair).
PULL YOUR HAIR BACK Grasp it like you are going to pull it into a
ponytail just below the middle of the head. Then twist it toward the top of
your head and secure the twist with a U-shaped pin (you may need more than
one if your hair is thick). Leave the ends free for a casual look, or tuck them
in and pin for a more polished effect. âItâs a French-twist kind of idea, but it
should be simple,â he says.
MIST IT ALL Spritz with hair spray to lock in the style,
making sure to go with light-hold. âNot making it too hard with a heavy hair spray
will give it a modern edge,â he says.
ORIBEâS FAVORITE LOOKS
JENNIFER LOPEZ AT THE ACADEMY AWARDS, 2003 âI wanted the chignon to
be big and superpolished. It was just a big, fabulous bun. A lot of people didnât love
it, but she felt spectacular.â SCARLETT JOHANSSON AT THE TONY AWARDS, 2010 âShe wanted a sci-fi kind of updoâsupermodern and clean. It was helmet-like, but somehow, for a young girl, for the occasion, it really worked.â
VOGUE, 2003 âFor a story about hair damage, we styled wigs with rock-hard gel
so they went straight up in the air, then we lit them on fire. It was crazyâand
it smelled terrible.â
JENNIFER LOPEZ AT THE ACADEMY AWARDS, 2002 âHalle won the Oscar, but on every newspaper in America, it was a huge picture of Jennifer Lopezâs monstrosity. But Jennifer loved it.â
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Bangs alter not just your hair; they can change your face, too.
Garrenâs guidelines:
EXAMINE YOUR FACE Ask for thick, chunky bangs if you have a large forehead; long ones
that start far back on the head if your forehead is small. âThis elongates the forehead and make it look deeper,â
he says. If youâre unsure, go for long, side-swept bangs. âThey look good
on everybody,â he says.
CONSIDER YOUR HAIR TEXTURE For curls, try a keratin straightening
treatment at the salon first.
EXPECT SOME MAINTENANCE Bangs wonât look good if youâre the
type to wait six months between haircuts; most require a trim at least
every four weeks, Garren says, and many salons cut them gratis.
How to Get the Best Bangs
GARRENâS FAVORITE LOOKS
FARRAH FAWCETT, 1978
âThis was when everything hit
for me because I took the âAngelâ
out of Farrah Fawcett and made
her hair straight. She was in every
newspaper.â
MADONNA, VANITY FAIR,
APRIL 1991âThatâs the iconic
Madonna when we transformed her into our version of
Marilyn Monroe. The hair was set with
electric rollers.â
VICTORIA BECKHAM, 2008 âI wanted to let her become herself, because before, her hair used to wear her, and now she was the centerpiece, not her hair. It made such a statement.â
SANDRA BULLOCK, VOGUE, JANUARY 2003 âThatâs her shaggy bob with side bangs âitâs the rocker-chick look. Before this, her hair was a waist-length, one-length cut.â
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THERE ARE HAIRCUTS THAT CLEAN UP SPLIT ENDS, and then there are haircuts that transform everything. Garrenâs are the latter. His textured stylesâoften accentuated with thick bangsâmake the recipient instantly cooler. âI like my haircuts to have individuality and some kind of punch,â he says. He first gained notice in 1978 when he shortened and straightened Farrah Fawcettâs famous Charlieâs Angels flip for a shampoo ad. âIt seemed like every newspaper said something about it,â he says. In the late â80s, he went on to work with fashion photographer Steven Meisel, creating looks for the periodâs biggest models, including Linda Evangelista, whom he ushered through a chameleon-like series of bobs and pixies. He collaborated regularly with Madonna, helping her shake things up with retro waves or a rocker-ish shag. And in this decade, he gave Victoria Beckham her signature gamine cut. Still, Garren remains a salon stylist at heart. âWhen it comes down to it, haircutting is really what Iâm about,â he says. âAt the end of a cut, when the woman shakes her head and says she loves it? You canât get better than that.â
Garren
Wool tuxedo by Theory. Makeup colors: Color Intrigue Eyeshadow in Twilight, Smoky Eyes Powder Pencil in Gunmetal, and Exceptional Lipstick in Amber by Elizabeth Arden. Hair: Garren of the Garren New York salon. Details, see Credits page.