Hamptons Magazine: Sen's Sister Next Door

7/27/2019 Hamptons Magazine: Sen's Sister Next Door

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C E L

E BRAT

I N G

sen’s sister

next doorSAG HARBOR NEWCOMER THE CUDDY ISFILLED WITH TRADITIONAL AMERICANGASTROPUB FARE AND AN EXOTIC MENUOF HOUSEMADE COCKTAILS.BY MATTHEW WEXLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIC STRIFFLER General Manager and Partner

Ryunosuke Jesse Matsuoka

Ataste of historic Sag Harbor has emerged on Main Street at The

Cuddy, an American gastropub that just opened this past April. And who bet ter to over see s uch a venture t han the son of a New

York ar tist a nd Japanese hi gh-d ivision sumo w restler?

If you’ve been even remotely tapped into the East End food scene since

the ’80s, this isn’t as unlikely as one might expect. “A sumo wrestler is

good at fighting, eating, and sleeping,” says Ryunosuke Jesse Matsuoka

of his father, Kazutomo. “Once you retire, you take

away the fighting and there is no industry for sleep-

ing, so the majority of sumo wrestlers get into food

and restaurants.”

Jesse and his brother, Tora, have been in the fam ilybusiness since they were old enough to wash dishes.

Along w ith bu siness part ner Jeff Resnick , the trio ha s

been an integral par t of Sag Harbor’s dining scene for

decades, most recently as the proprietors of The Cuddy’s popular neigh-

boring establishment, sushi mecca Sen and its Manhatta n cousin.Previously operating as Phao, a Thai restaurant, the team felt the

space needed to speak to more people and offer a n “everyday” kind of

cuisine that included brunch. “We wanted to highlight the best attri-

butes of the Hamptons,” says Jesse, “great local cuisine—handcrafted

whene ver p ossi ble— in a coz y, wa rm space t hat is i nvit ing for a ll.” They

brainstormed hundreds of names, but it was mother

Lynn who chimed in with The Cuddy, which

Matsuoka describes as “the safe and secure place on

a boat. It’s usually the driest and the warmest and is

sometimes used as a pantr y.” The name immediat elyimparted t he kind of environment they were looking

to create for a delicious meal.

continued on page 62

RIGHT: Roasted chickenwith wild mushrooms,sherry, and thyme jus androasted fingerlingpotatoes. BELOW: TheCuddy, a Americangastropub in Sag Harbor.

“We wanted tohighlight the

best attributes of the Hamptons.”JESSE MATSUOKA

60 HAMPTONS-MAGAZINE.COM

THIS WEEK: CASUAL CUISINE



FROM TOP: The Cuddy’sinterior features reclaimedwood and nautical elementsthat reference Sag Harbor’shistory as a whaling village;

yellowtail tartare featuringwatermelon radish,avocado, endive, GoodWater Farms microgreens,and ponzu.

continued from page 60

SWEET SUCCESSOne of The Cuddy’s secrets to the perfect handcrafted

cocktail is its use of homemade simple syrups. Their basic

simple syrup is equal parts water and sugar, cooked slowly

until the sugar dissolves. Beverage Director Derek Neilsen has

created infused simple syrups, including a black tea variety

made with ITO EN’s Southampton Ceylon black tea blend, as

well as windflower honey and lavender syrup. As a special

garnish, The Cuddy also macerates its own cherries, which are

cooked in-house with a blend of spices, citrus zest, and sugar.

CLASS IN SESSIONIn an effort to build community and educate its customers

and staff, The Cuddy offers a series of free, informational

tastings and field trips. From whiskey profiling (do you know

the difference between sour mash, bourbon, and rye?) to

meet-the-farmer visits, this unique opportunity offers insider

access to the food and beverage industry. Upcoming events

are listed at thecuddy.com, or Hamptonites can join the

e-mail list by contacting [email protected].

There are lots of nooks to tuck into for a pint of beer and a snack of hand-

cut French fries with truff le salt or fried green tomatoes, but if you want to

see and be seen, request lucky table 13, where you can scan the room for

the likes of Eric Ripert, who has been known to make an appearance. A

communal table in the center of the restaurant offers diners the opportu-

nity to make new friends and further infuses The Cuddy with the localhangout vibe that Jesse and team are striving for.

Executive Chef Gil Chico’s menu supports and elevates the rest aurant’s

vision through re-im agined pub fare that rel ies on local i ngred ients. The

roasted beet salad is accented wit h house-cured bacon, aged cheddar, and

seasonal greens such as sorrel, which

adds floral, herbaceous notes to the

dish. Yellowtail tar tare avoids the East

End cliché of soy sauce and ginger and,

instead, is served sashimi-style with

vibrant avocado, endive, mic rogreens,

and ponzu. While much of the pro-duce is sourced from East Hampton’s

Good Water Farms, the chef has

turned to Painted Hills in Wheeler

County, Oregon, and specialty pur-

veyor D’Artag nan for h is beef, pork, and poult ry. Bacon-w rapped roa sted

quail is an unfussy dish, allowing the subtle gaminess to shine with the

simple accompaniment of roasted corn and black bean salad. Entrées such

as The Cuddy burger with tomato jam and Berkshire pork chop with tater

tots play with t he concept of comfort food, while the roasted chicken with

perfectly crisped skin, confit fingerling potatoes, wi ld mushrooms, sherry,

and thyme jus is a not-so-subtle reminder that t here are some serious chops

in the kitchen.


Entrées such ase Cuddyburger with

tomato jam playwith the conceptof comfort food.

The Gentleman’s Favor:Michter’s rye whiskey,Carpano Anticavermouth, bitters,homemade cherries,and black-tea syrup.


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P H O T O G R A P H Y

B Y D A N I E L K R I E G E R ( M E A D O W ) ; E R I C S T R I F F L E R ( L O B

S T E R R O L L )

No gastropub would be complete without a

veritable bar to mosey up to after a day at sea— oran afternoon of shopping. The Cuddy enlisted

Beverage Director Derek Neilsen whose liba-

tions speak to the classics while incorporating

personal flair in his use of homemade simple

syrups and art isan spirits. Standouts include the

Gentleman’s Favor, an intoxicating combination

of Michter’s rye whiskey, Carpano Antica ver-

mouth, bitters, homemade cherries, and black

tea syrup; and Johnny Lemonade, a lip-puck-

ering refresher of wildflower honey lemonadeand Prairie organic vodka. Mainstay beers are

available for uncomplicated palates, while

uncommon finds such as Angry Orchard Hard

Cider from Ohio and Hitachino Nest White Ale

from Japan reflect T he Cuddy’s global appeal.

Matsuoka hopes that The Cuddy will become

the go-to place for restaurant industry folks as

well a s local s year -round. “We set out to build a

space that people wanted and needed,” says

Matsuoka, who lives upstairs. “Sag Harbor is the

oasis of the Hamptons. You can walk to the wharf and check out the beauti ful yacht s, the

windy roads —everyth ing is with in reach. And

given that Sag Harbor is an old whaling town,

drink ing will never go out of style.” 29 Main St.,

Sag Harbor, 725-0101; thecuddy.com H

Cavaniola’s GourmetI find Cavan iola’s cheese, wine, and

prepared food selections to be the most

indulgent, artisanal, and highest qualityin all of the Hamptons. Two of my favorite

purchases are the Triennes Rosé and the

Abbaye de Belloc (sheep’s milk cheese).

89B Division St., Sag Harbor, 725-0095;

cavaniola.com

Hampton Coffee Company Thi s place is char ming a nd simply the

most convenient location. It’s also a great

break from traff ic on 27 and gives my

family and me the opportunity to grab

a bite, then go to the farmers and flower

market next door.

869 Montauk Hwy., Water Mill, 726-2633;

hamptoncoffeecompany.com

Levain Bakery This is my wife Karin’s single favorite dessert

place in the world. As a st aple in our Upper

West Side neighborhood, she simply couldn’t

bear to be apart from it out East. We stop in

for the walnut chocolate chip cookies—they’re

always fresh, warm, and gooey.

354 Montauk Hwy., Wainscott, 537-8570;

levainbakery.com

Loaves & Fishes The halibut sa lad on its hou se-m ade

croissant is the single most indulgent

good to goLDV HOSPITALITY’S JOHN MEADOW LISTSHIS FAVORITE HAMPTONS LOCALES FOREXQUISITE CARRYOUT BITES.

continued from page 62

Flourless chocolate cake with salted caramel,marshmallow, peanuts, and house-madepeanut-butter ice cream.


One of John Meadow’sfavorite dishes out East isSilver’s lobster roll (ABOVE),which is served with just atouch of mayo and celery.


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Hamptons Magazine: Sen's Sister Next Door