HAIR FIBER THERMAL RE-ALIGNMENT

PRO LISS 100

2

HISTORY:

Hair has always been considered as the perfect adornment for our face. Historically, it meant a seduction symbol for women and a strength demonstration for men. This statement can be verified through the Greek mythology, where Afrodita hid her nakeness with her long blond hair and Samson defeated the philistines when he recovered his pretty hair. In the same way, offering the hanks to Gods meant a supreme act of big sacrifice in the Ancient Greece. In Egypt, the pharaohs were socially distinguished depending on their wigs shape, meanwhile for the muslims, having a little log on the top of the hair meant the point through which Mahoma will drive them to heaven. Nowadays, the strength concept and social status confered to the hair does not apply anymore. However, hair keeps being very important to beauty and seduction.

STRAIGHT AND HEALTHY HAIR:

The hair straightening is highlighted and it is a good solution for those who has frizzy or curly hair and they would like to have it straight. There are different techniques, but the issue started to become more prominent when the Japanese Straightening Treatment was launched in New York some years ago.

In favor to those techniques there is the possibility to make the straight hair dream come true, it can last days or even months, depending on the applied treatment. Against them, the hairdressers keep warning about the side effects of the chemical and mechanical treatments can cause. Without the proper protection they can dry and weaken the hair. The vigour loss occurs when the keratin (the main protein which constitutes the hair) loses its functionality - protecting and regenerating the hair because it is constantly attacked by these treatments. Thus, in order to mantain the hair pretty and healthy, it is very important that you know more in detail these techniques so that you can prevent the hair from future problems.

2

3

MECHANISM OF ACTION

1. Pro.Liss® 100 allows to weaken the hidrogen and salt bonds of the hair, and theorically, it allows the interconversion of the cysteine bonds of the hair fibers surface.

2. After the application of a product which contains Pro.Liss® 100, it must be used a flat iron at a minimum temperature of 200°C and not higher than 230°C, in this way the hair straightening is happening and at the same time, the control and reduction of frizz take place, determining the final result.

• Smooth hair easier to comb

• Volume control and frizz reduction

• Shine and natural look

Comply with

current market

requirements

Doesn’t

release irritant

vapors

Can have

contact with

hair scalp¹

Pro.Liss® 100 is an exclusive technology conceived to be used in capillary formulas based on the acidic oxoacetamides synergy.

Thank to the association of the oxoacetamides,carbocysteine and the amino acids carbocysteines that it is made up, Pro.Liss® 100 allows a temporary change of the hair structure, providing the following benefits:

AP

PR

O V E D B Y A NV

I SAHAIR FIBER THERMAL RE-ALIGNMENT

100% Safe.100% Effective.

0% Formaldehyde.0% Glutaraldehyde.

Tests ensure that hair doesn’t break

3

PRO LISS 100

4

NAMES

ProLiss® 100INCI: Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine (and) Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids (and) WaterCAS: 1268868-51-4 (and) 1269630-89-8 (and) 7732-18-5

SPECIFICATIONS

Aspect (25ºC) : Transparent to opalescent liquidColor : Yellow to chesnutDensity (20ºC) : 1.270 – 1.370pH (sol. 20%) : 1,0 – 2,0% Active (Refraction) : 45 - 55

INSTRUCTIONS OF USEThe recommended dosage of Pro.Liss® 100 in hair care formulas (creams, fluid emulsions and gel creams) is between 20% and 30%.

ATTENTION!

¹Do not apply a product that contains Pro.Liss® 100 directly to the scalp if it might be irritated or hurt. If the hair had its internal structure damaged, it would end up broken if a product with Pro.Liss® 100 is applied. In the application of products with Pro.Liss® 100 for retouches, please prevent the root from the application, due it can cause hair fibers rupture.

4

5

PROLISS® 100

Compatible with all the capillary transformation treatments so it can be applied onhair that would be already straightened, colored and/or bleached.

STRAIGHTENED HAIR

It needs to be pointed out that other chemical straighteners such as the Ammonium

Tioglycolate, Guanidine Carbonate, or Sodium Hydroxide, modify the internal hair

structure damaging the hydrogen bonds, as well as the salt and cysteine ones.

Moreover, it can increase the fiber diameter up to 4-6 times, thus, before applying

a product wtih Pro.Liss® 100 is strongly recommended to do an application test.

Obs: It is important that the test would be done even in the re-applications in all cases.

COLORED HAIRDuring the Permanent or Semi-Permanent coloring processes, it takes place the opening

of the hair fiber flakes due to the Ammonium and Monoethanolamine action. The

pigments start the oxidation process thanks to the Hydrogen Peroxyde, and they are

led into the hair cortex, they react and they form a bigger molecule. Thanks to that,

they remain in the hair coloring it.

A different sort of pigments are the ones that are being deposited in the

intercuticulal superficial space, those can be removed when the hair is washed

or with other hairtreatments.

When the flat iron is used at 200°C, it generates heat, and this is another

alternative thanks to which the hair cuticle can be opened. Therefore, when the

flat iron is used right after a product with Pro.Liss® 100 is applied, these molecules

can be removed and thus the color altered.

BLEACHED HAIRThe bleach treatments with Persulfates (sodium, ammonium and potassium) are even

more aggressive treatments, they completely destroy the hydrogen bonds, most

of the salt ones and partially the cysteine ones. The result overseen is a hair

completely dry and weak.

The time and the concentration in volume of hydrogen peroxyde in bleaching

determines the bleaching level as well as the aggression to the hair. The bigger

the concentration is, the bigger the aggression is.

Therefore, before using products which contain Pro.Liss® 100 we strongly

recommend to do a previous test that determines the hair fibers conditions as

well as some allergies can be detected, and the hair can be prevented form rupture

and color alteration.

5

PRO LISS 100

6

Application TestVOLUME REDUCTION AND CURL REDUCTION

HAIR FIBER THERMAL RE-ALIGNMENT

7

FINISHED PRODUCT

PHASE COMERCIAL NAME INCI NAME % WEIGHT

ASoftCAT™ SX 1300XDeionized Water

Polyquaternium-67Aqua

0.3020.00

BDeionized WaterLipex Shea Q - 50Polímero W - 25

AquaShea Butteramidopropyltrimonium ChloridePeg - 90M (and) water

Q.S.P. 1001.004.00

C

Sunquart TMS

Lipex Shea-WPolymol IPP

Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) CetearylAlcoholShea Butter Cetyl EstersIsopropyl Palmitate

5.001.000.70

D DC 9027*Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol (and)Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dow Corning)

2.00

E

Zonem MI

Pro.Liss® 100

Hydra-Sil®Essence**

Methylchloroisothiazolinone /Methylisothiazolinone

Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine (and) Glyoxyloyl KeratinAmino Acids (and) Water

Silanetriol (and) PanthenolShine Hair SCE-221116**

0.08

20.00

2.000.50

The application tests took place in a Technical Center, the Pro.Liss® 100 was used at 20% in the

formula and the product was applied in several hair types.

PROCEDURE

Heat phase A up to 40ºC for 5 minutes and homogenize. Add phase B at 80 - 85ºC and mix. Heat

phase C up to 80 - 85ºC and mix. Add A to B and homogenize. Gently stirring, add phase A/B

on phase C and stir for 10 - 15 minutes. Keeping the mix stirred, let it cool down to 60 - 65ºC,

add phase D items,and gently homogenize after each addition. Let it cool down to 40-45ºC, add

phase E items and gently homogenize after each addition.

Note: All the information that appears in this brochure is based on reliable tests. They were provided in order that the customer can evaluate and verify it. It is the customer’s liability to adequate it to their needs.

*Supplier: (Dow Corning)**Supplier: (Scentec)

PRO LISS 100

8

APPLICATION PROTOCOL • Wash the hair with an anti-residual/

preferred shampoo.• The hair must be rinsed till the

shampoo is completely removed.• Remove water excess with a towel and

dry with dryer.• Apply the product formulation with a

brush, log by log, from roots to the tips.• The product must remain on the hair

for 15 minutes.• After that, the hair must be dried with a

hair dryer and comb straight with a round brush in order to align hair while it’s being dried.

• After the hair has been combed, use your straightener to flat iron the hair. Do it in thin strands parts. Make sure temperature of 200ºC and not more than 230 ºC. Flat iron 5 times each hair strand.

• After the flat iron process, leave hair still for 15 minutes more.• After the pause, rinse hair and use a conditioner. If preferred

hair can be washed with shampoo before conditioner. • Remove water excess with a towel. Dry the hair completely

with a dryer.

HAIR TYPES USED IN THE APPLICATION TESTS CAUCASIAN HAIR1. Smooth base, thin thickness, lightly waved. 2. Smooth base, medium thickness with defined waves.3. Smooth base, medium or thick thickness with curly tips.

FRIZZY/CURLY HAIR 4. Smooth base, defined curls. 5. Curly from roots to tips, dry and with a lot of curls “ like a coil”.

RESULTS (first aplication) Type of Hair - Caucasian Volume Reduction Curl Reduction

Smooth base, thin thickness, lightly waved Total Total

Smooth base, medium thickness with defined waves Total Total

Smooth base, medium or thick thickness with curly tips 80% 75%

Type of Hair - Frizzy or Curly Volume Reduction Curl Reduction

Smooth base, defined curls 70% 65%

Frizzy from roots to tips, very curly 50% 55%

GRAPHICS

Caucasian thin - lightly weavy

Caucasian medium-thin, defined waves

Caucasian - medium/thick, curly tips

Frizzy/curly - smooth base, defined waves

Frizzy/curly - from roots to tips, very curly

Caucasian medium-thin, defined waves

Caucasian - medium/thick, curly tips

Frizzy/curly - smooth base, defined waves

Frizzy/curly - from roots to tips, very curly

Hair typesHair types

Chart 1. Volume Reduction Chart 2. Curl Reduction

9

HAIR TREATED WITH PROLISS® 100 RESULTS

Before

Before

Before

Before

After

After

After

After

PRO LISS 100

10

HAIR BREAKING | EVALUATION OF MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF HAIR FIBERS.

1. CURLY AND WAVY HAIR

2. DIFFERENT TYPES OF STRAIGHTENERS

• 3 standard strands / afro and wavy hair (De Meo Brother INC, NY-USA 5g, 25cm)

• Product containing 20% ProLiss® 100 by weight in the formulation

• Application protocol as previously suggested

• Determination of reference readings in the 5th and 10th applications

• Equipment reliability 95%

Reduction of the force of previously discolored

Caucasian hair (%) when submitted to different hair

straighteners.

Test performed on standardized wicks of previously

discolored Caucasian hair using market products.

0,95

0,77

0,93

00

0,0, 11

0,0, 22

0,0, 33

0,0, 44

0,0, 55

0,0, 66

0,0, 77

0,0, 88

0,0, 99

1,1, 00

0,75 0,720,7

F F (N(N )

Reference: Spectroscopic Analysis of Microstructure and Protein Degradation of Human Hair Caused by New Hair Straightening Systems

ammonium thioglycolate sodium hydroxide

after 1 application after 5 application

guanidine hydroxide PriLiss 100®

Elasticity and deformationWavy virgin hair with ProLiss® 100

Reading 5 and 10 applications

Virgin 5° apli. 10° aplic.

Elasticity and deformationCurly virgin hair with ProLiss® 100

Reading 5 and 10 applications

Virgin 5° apli. 10° aplic.

11

SECURITY

Tests

TEST OBJETIVE RESULT

BCOPValidated Protocol by ECVAM

Assess the irritating and potential ocular toxic.

Moderately irritating

CorrosividadeValidated Protocol by ECVAM

Evaluate the degree of epithelial cor-rosivity

Category 1 (acids / strong bases)Packing group II (moderate

corrosivity)

CitotoxicidadeValidated Protocol by ECVAM

Evaluate the cytotoxicity of test sub-stance

At concentrations between 3.0 and 10.0% (v / v) IC 50 compatible cytotoxicity of the positive control

SDS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate).

Formaldehyde contentQuantify the presence of Formol, HPLC-

UV method (ppm)<0,01 ppm

Formaldehyde contentProtocol USP 30

Check the presence of Formol in heated product steam at 25 ° C, 150 ° C

and 230 ° C<0,02%

Acute Oral Toxicity Fixed Dose (DL-50 oral rats)Protocol OECD

Obtain information on the risks of acute oral exposure health

Oral LD-50> 300mg / kg. Toxicological class IV

Acute Dermal Toxicity(DL-50 dermal rats)Protocol OECD

Assess health risk of acute exposure of the pure product via dermal

DL-50 dermal >2000 mg/kg

Skin Irritation / CorrosionProtocol OECD

Provide information on the corrosive or irritating effects on the skin

No Irritant when applied by dermal route

Skin SensitizationProtocol OECD

Information on sensitizing power skin

It did not cause any type of dermal or systemic reaction, when applied pure, then considered sensitizing

substance

Oral Mucosa IrritationProtocol CTFA

Assess whether a substance may or may not come into direct contact with

the oral cavity

Practically considered non-irritating when applied to the labial region

PhototoxicidadeProtocol Acute Toxicoloy Testing

Provide information about the health risks of exposure to sunlight after ap-

plying the product to the skin.Non-phototoxic

Mutagenicity (Reverse Mutation of Bacteria Assay)

Detect if a substance can cause muta-tions in the DNA.

Non-mutagenic

PURE PRODUCT

LABORATORIES:

ecgrupo lyzer

HAIR FIBER THERMAL RE-ALIGNMENT

AP

PR

OV E D B Y A N

VI S

AHAIR FIBER THERMAL RE-ALIGNMENT

www.aqia.net/en