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Bal
earic
Isl
esSp
ain
Portugal
France
United Kingdom
Morocco
Algeria
Madrid
Paris
London
Lisbon
Ceuta
Melilla
Contents
Introduction 1Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera 8Getting around 14Intineraries:
Mallorca 15Menorca 22Ibiza and Formentera 28
City visits:Palma 32Mahón 35Ciutadella 37Ibiza 41
Leisure and entertainment 44Useful addresses 48
Bay of Biscay
Spain
Mediterranean Sea
AtlanticOcean
Balearic Isles
Ibiz
a
Barcelona
Valencia
Barcelona
Valencia
Denia
Denia
Barcelona
Palm
a de M
allor
ca
Tarragona
Parque NacionalMarítimo-Terrestre
Archipiélago de Cabrera
Badia de Pollença
Badiad'Alcudia
Badia de Son Servera
Freu de Cabrera
Badiade Palma
Cala Magraner
Cala Salada
Cala Saona
Cala en Porter
Cala Blanca
Cala de Ses Ortigues
Cala Sant VicençCala Sta.Galdana
Cala d´Alcaufar
CalaPregonda
M A R
M E D I T E R R Á N E O
Cap de Cavalleria
Punta NatiCap Gros
Cap de Formentor
Cap des Pinar
Cap de MenorcaCap de Ferrutx
Cap des Freu
Cap Vermell
Cap de ses Salines
Punta de Cala Beltrán
Cap de Cala Figuera
Punta de sa Foradada
Punta Beca
Cap de Catalunya
Punta des Moscarter
Punta des Jonc
Cap des Llibrell
Cap des Falcó
Cap deBalansat
Punta de sa Pedrera Punta Prima
Punta de sa Creu
Pta. del Esperó
s'Algar
Cap de Artrutx
Cap des Bisbe
Punta Rodona
Cap de Favàritx
Punta RotjaCap de Barbària
Cap Llentrisca
Cap d´Aubarca
Punta Prima
MENORCA
MALLORCA
CABRERA
SA DRAGONERA
CONILLERA
IBIZA(EIVISSA)
S´ESPARDELL
FORMENTERA
S'ESPALMADOR
AIRE
TAGOMAGO
CONILLERA
713
710
715
712
714
717
721
711
723
733
731
SIERRA
DETRAMUNTANA
Fornells
es Mercadal
VillacarlosSant Lluís
Ferreries
Portocristo
Portocolom
Portopetro
ses SalinesColònia de Sant Jordi
Son Servera
Cala Rajada
Capdepera
Sant Llorençdes Cardassar
Son Serra
sa Rápita
s'Arenal
Algaida
Sant Joan
Can Picafort
Andratx Calvià
Deià
BunyolaAlaró
Port de Sóller
Escorca
Sant Carles
Portinatx
Sant Miquel
Sant Joan Baptista
Sant Jordi
Sant Francesc de Formentera
Sta. Margalida
sa Savina
MagalufSanta Ponça
BanyalbufarEsporles
Valldemossa
Port dePollença
es Migjorn Gran
Estellencs
es Pujols
el Pilar de la Mola
Binibèquer
Alaior
CamposLlucmajor
Sóller
Santa Eulària des RiuSant Antoni de Portmany
sa Pobla
Manacor
Inca
sa Cabaneta
Sant Josep
PALMA
Felanitx
Santanyi
Petra
ArtàMuro
AlcúdiaPollença
Maó
Ciutadella de Menorca
Ibiza (Eivissa)
Sineu
Islas Baleares
NN
Escala 1:1.000.00010 0 20 30 Km.10
Año 1999© Cartografía digitalC/Conde de la Cimera Nº 4
28040 Madrid Tfno. 5536033
Ruinas históricasCuevaCampingCampo de golfVista panorámicaParque NacionalBalnearioPuerto deportivo
AutovíaCtra. Red básica 2º ordenCarretera localFerrocarrilMonasterioAeropuertoCastilloMonumento
Playa de Son Bou
Playa de Son Bunyola
Platja de Sta. Eulàlia
Freeway“B” RoadLocal RoadRailwayMonasteryAirportCastleMonument
Historic ruinsCaveCamp siteGolf coursePanoramic viewNational ParkSpaMarina
Balearic Isles
There are those who maintainthat there is no such thing at allas the Balearic Isles. Nestling inthe western Mediterranean,halfway between the IberianPeninsula, the south of Franceand the north of Africa, theBalearic archipelago is made upof a string of islands which,while obviously forming a cleargeographical entity, are markedby as many points of disparity assimilarity. One of the reasonsfor these differences isdoubtless due to the historicalimprint that has been leftengraved on each island: Ibiza,impregnated by a lastingCarthaginian and Moorishinfluence; Mallorca, heir to apronounced Roman presence;and Menorca which to this daybears the traces of long yearsof English occupation.
The islands’ respectivetopographies are at once alikeand different, as are the kindsof tourism they receive. TheMallorcan summer season is, ingeneral, a more sophisticatedand less tranquil affair than thatof Menorca, while in Ibiza theaccent is definitely on nightlife.Although such simplistic clichésare often rather casual with thetruth, the above definitionscontain an undeniable basis ofhard fact.
1
Mallorca. Cala Fornells
The archipelago has become atourist industry giant and theleading holiday destination inthe western Mediterranean. Theislands boast an excellentcombination of elegant summerresorts, coves and beaches, tosay nothing of the manyfascinating places hidden awayin the interior.
The Balearics are made up ofthree major islands: Mallorca,Menorca, Ibiza (Eivissa) plusFormentera, as well as
numerous islets, the most notable of which is, without ashadow of a doubt, Cabrera,officially declared a Sea & LandNational Park. Together, theislands cover a surface area of alittle over 5,000 squarekilometres and have 1,239kilometres of coastline.
The Balearics, also formallyknown as Illes Balears, is anAutonomous Region with itsown governing Authority. Thereare 17 such AutonomousRegions in Spain. The islandinstitutions are the Balearic
2
Ibiza. D’en Bossa beach
Regional Authority, the BalearicParliament and the three islandCouncils, namely, those ofMallorca, Menorca and Ibiza &Formentera.
The larger islands areinterconnected by plane andferry, and a busy schedule ofdirect flights links each of theirairports with principaldestinations around Europe.Only Mallorca has a rail service,yet each island operates acomprehensive bus and coachnetwork that puts all points
within reach of public transport.However, most visitors to thearchipelago favour car rental astheir chosen form of transport.
The Balearic Isles have apermanent population of over700,000, almost half of whomlive in the capital, Palma. Thecity is situated 132 miles fromBarcelona and 140 fromValencia, with daily plane- andferry-services covering thecrossing to and from the mainland. Ibiza and Menorca
3
Menorca. Cala Font harbour
5
have approximately 80,000 and65,000 inhabitants respectively.
Although the islands enjoy amild, classically Mediterraneanclimate, this is characterised bytypically insular features, such asthe high humidity. It is thisfactor that accounts for themarked differences in theseasonal temperature range.Temperatures vary from anaverage of around 19.5ºC inspring, to 27ºC in summer,20.5ºC in autumn and 15ºC inwinter. The annual averagetemperature for the group as awhole is in the region of 17ºC,with negligible inter-islanddifferences.Over the course of the calendaryear, the Balearics enjoysomething like 300 days of sunshine, a circumstance which makes them an especially
attractive tourist destination forthe inhabitants of NorthernEurope, unaccustomed as theyare to such conditions.
Fresh water was traditionallydrawn to the surface by meansof windmills, which standsilhouetted against the skyline,forming a characteristic islandbackdrop to irrigated farmlandareas, particularly on Mallorca.This placid landscape, dottedhere and there with windmills(now fallen idle), can still beseen in the Pla de Sant Jordi,Campos, Muro and sa Pobladistricts.
The most developed industriesin the Balearics and thosehaving the greatest impactabroad are undoubtedly thoseengaged in the production of
Ibiza
Dragonera Island
footwear, costume jewellery,furniture and cultured pearls,the latter two being chieflyconcentrated in the Manacordistrict.
However, the revolution thathas most profoundly affectedthe islands’ economic and socialstructures in the entire course oftheir history has come from thepost-50s tourist boom. Thevanguard of the current waveof tourists appeared in the 19thcentury, when eminenttravellers, such as Georges Sand,Chopin and the ArchdukeLudwig Salvator of Austria firstvisited Mallorca and, throughtheir literary works, contributedto making the beauty of the
island known to the outsideworld. Numerous Europeanartists and writers weresubsequently drawn to theislands and were struck by theirevocative and varied scenery.Scores of travel books and aconsiderable number ofpaintings have not onlyimmortalised the period buthave come down to us as atestimony of that time.
Thanks to the clement climate,scenic beauty and special qualityof light, the Balearic Isles werechosen by numerous writers,painters and artists of all kindsas the place where they coulddevelop their art
6
Conejera Island
7
form in an atmosphere of peace and quiet. In the title hegave to one of his works,Santiago Rusiñol referred toMallorca as, La isla de la calma(Isle of Calm). It was in thefifties and, more particularly, inthe sixties when the touristboom really took off.
Apart from the standard hotel-type accommodation on offer, acomplementary range of top-quality lodging has beendeveloped -in the form ofmarinas, golf courses, countrycottages and the like- whichholds out the possibility ofrelaxing well away from themain tourist centres.
Despite the many buildingserected in recent decades tocater for the steady influx oftourists who arrive all yearround, the Balearics preserve arich store of traditionalarchitecture, a legacy of theirfolk heritage. Mallorca,Menorca and Ibiza provideexamples of an architecturewhich, though rooted intradition, stems from diverseorigins. Mallorca, altogethermore seigneurial, presentsdwellings whose layouts arereminiscent of the villas ofclassical Rome. Alongside these,
the gleaming, whitewashedcubes of Ibiza recall the passageof the Carthaginians who, intheir wake, left exotic-lookinghouses redolent with the feeland atmosphere of the townsand villages of North Africa.Menorca, for its part, conservesthe indelible, unmistakeablestamp of British colonial rule(1713–1782).
Mallorca. Bellver Castle and the City of Palma
Mallorca,Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera
Each of the Balearic Isles hasfeatures that distinguish it fromits neighbours and more thansufficient individual appeal tojustify a visit. Mallorca, thelargest, is home to Palma,Balearic capital and seat of theRegional Authority. Palma is amodern, cosmopolitan city,with its image as Spain’ssummer capital reinforced andenhanced by the officialpresence, over the vacationperiod, of the Spanish RoyalFamily, as well as other leadingfigures in politics, culture andthe performing arts.
Of all the islands, Mallorca isthe one that offers mostpossibilities to the tourist. Itenjoys a wide variety of scenery.In the Tramuntana Range,rising to its maximum height of
close on 5,000 ft. in the shapeof Puig Major, mountainscenery can be enjoyed at itspurest. Situated in this, thesteepest part of the island, aretowns as picturesque asValldemossa, Sóller and Deià. Inaddition to its ruggedlandscape, Mallorca’s northerncorniche, carved and sculptedby a mountain range thatparallels the coast for over onehundred kilometres, is the siteof attractive coves and beachresorts, such as Cala de Deià,Port de Sóller, Cala Tuent and saCalobra.
The hinterland, eminentlyagrarian, has little in commonwith the typically tourist imageof the island and serves as aconstant reminder of thereason for Mallorca’s beingdubbed the “Isle of Calm”. As aresult of having received far lesstourist influence, this area isnot only more given toconserving the old ways but isoutstanding for the richness ofits scenery and architecture.The south of Mallorca is morearid, and is home to some ofthe most beautiful of theisland’s beaches, that of sesCovetes and es Trenc, as well asthe beaches of Mondragó, CalaFiguera and Cala Santanyí.
8
Mallorca. Can Picafort
On the eastern coast of theisland, apart from those calas(creeks or coves), such as CalaMesquida, Cala Agulla or CalaTorta, that are still relativelyunexploited, one can visit aseries of impressive caves: Artà,in Canyamel; Drac, with itslarge subterranean lake; andHams, in Portocristo.
Another of Mallorca’s maintourist areas lies along thesweeping bays of Alcúdia andPollença that fringe the north-eastern shores of the island.One of the most importanttowns in this part is Pollençaitself, popularised by artists andshow-business celebrities. Thetown harbour, a favouritehaunt among a more “select”set, is one of the mostcosmopolitan meeting points
on the island. Both the Cala deSan Vicenç and the Formentorpeninsula are “musts”.
A further tourist Mecca on thissame north-east coast isAlcúdia, with the specialattraction of its old town wall,the Roman city of Pollentia andwell-preserved amphitheatre.The wide crescent of AlcúdiaBay is lined with a continuousstretch of beach, Can Picafort,Son Serra de Marina and theColònia de Sant Pere being thebay’s most important holidayresorts. The area is also site ofthe s’Albufera Nature Reserve,one of five in the Balearics,namely: Mondragó, in Santanyí;sa Dragonera, in Andratx;
9
Menorca. Cabo Fornells
10
s’Albufera des Grau, onMenorca; and ses Salines onIbiza and Formentera.
In terms of surface area,Menorca is the second biggestof the Balearic Isles. Despite itsproximity to Mallorca, itpossesses many distinctive andunique traits. It lies to thenorth-east of the group. UnlikeMallorca, it is devoid of anytrue highland area. Its one and only point of any height is Mount Toro which, situated in the centre of the island, rises to a mere 357 m. (just over 1,100 ft.).
By and large, the island’s northcoast is a sharply indented lineof cliffs, with pebbled beachesand reddish sands. The moreregular south coast is made up
of the so-called barrancos orravines: these are wetlandswhich constitute microclimaticzones with well-defined faunaand flora, totally different fromanything found on the rest ofthe island.Throughout the length andbreadth of the island, twoschools of architecture are inevidence. On the one hand,there is the typicallyMediterranean, whitewashedtype of building, and on theother, buildings designed in thepurest of English styles, a directconsequence of the differentperiods of British occupation.
Menorca possesses aninvaluable archaeologicalheritage which has made it into
Ibiza. Botafoch lighthouse
11
what is tantamount to an open-air museum. The three maintypes of prehistoric monumentsare mausoleums (navetas),altar-like taules (or taulas), anddwellings and/or look-out posts(talaiots or talayots). The taulesare the island’s landmarkconstructions, the significanceof which archaeologists havethus far been unable to agreeupon.
Mahón (Maó), the island’scapital, is located at the end ofan extraordinary three-mile-long roadstead, regarded asone of the best naturalharbours on theMediterranean.
Ibiza, which together withFormentera forms the smallPitiusas archipelago, is the
Balearic Isle lying closest to theSpanish mainland. The city ofIbiza, the capital, is alsopopularly known by the name,Vila. It is perched atop apromontory that dominates theentire port. Rising above theUpper Town are the twinoutlines of the Cathedral andCastle. Down below in theLower Town are the sa Penyaand sa Marina Quarters,bustling with the boutiques,restaurants and shops of allkinds that have made this thecity’s nerve centre.
Towards the end of the sixties,Ibiza became famous thanks tothe hippie movement, whichendowed it with the status of a
Formentera with Ibiza in the background
12
counterculture paradise.Enduring legacies of thismovement are the island’sebullient festive side and theso-called “Ad Lib” fashion, a source of revenue and of an image projected to theworld at large.
Dotting Ibiza’s shoreline are thebeaches of Talamanca,Figueretes, platja d’en Bossaand platja des Cavallet, thoughthe most famous beach on thewhole island is, without ashadow of a doubt, the widestretch of ses Salines, famed forbeing the first nudist beach inSpain.
The Santa Eulària des Riu areais another of the island’sholiday centres. The humpedform of the Puig de Missapresides over the town, a town
located on the one river (theBalcar) in the entire Balearicsgroup.
Sant Antoni de Portmany issecond only to the city of Ibizaas the most popular and livelyplace on the island. In sharpcontrast, the north coast,known as els Amunts, ispractically virgin and hasscarcely any towns or villages.This coast is rugged and sheer,and offers few points of access.
Formentera, viewed by someas the last bastion of earthlyparadise on the Mediterranean,is solely accessible by ferry fromIbiza. It is a tiny island with anarea of less than eighty squarekilometres, separated fromIbiza by a distance of just 11miles. Apart from the two rockypromontories of La Mola andCap de Barbaria, it is practicallyflat and has just one town, thatof Sant Francesc de Formentera.Owing to its small size and finesands, Formentera is a magnetfor tourists seeking escape andtranquillity. Fortunately, it hasgrown in harmony with thesurroundings and its ownresources, and has succeeded inmaintaining a balance betweenmodernity and tradition.
Ibiza. Portinatx
Ibiza. Typical architecture
14
Getting around
Most tourists visiting theBalearic Isles arrive by plane.Each of the three majorislands, Mallorca, Menorcaand Ibiza, is served by aninternational airport, linkedby direct flights to Europe’smain capital cities. PalmaAirport, Son Sant Joan ( 971 78 90 99), is not onlythe biggest locally but one ofthe chief tourist airports inEurope. It lies eight kilometresfrom the city centre. There is abus (No. 17) to the airportevery 20 minutes from thePaseo Mallorca.
Should travellers decide to goto Mallorca by ship, theTrasmediterránea ferry lineruns a scheduled passengerservice ( 902 45 46 45).From Palma, ferries runregularly to Mahón, Ibiza,Valencia and Barcelona. Thereare only two railway lines inthe Balearics, both onMallorca. One is privatelyowned and links Palma withPort de Sóller ( 971 75 20 51). It is a
quaint electric train whichrelies mainly on touristsvisiting Sóller. The second isthe Inca railway, the last of aonce extensive network oftrains that connected many ofMallorca’s towns.
Coaches and rental cars arethe most usual means oftransport for tourists visitingthe islands. Tariffs are veryeconomical and there is awide range on offer.
The Balearics are covered bycomprehensive network ofroads. Three toll-freehighways lead from Palma, toPalmanova, Cala Blava andInca respectively.
15
ItinerariesMALLORCA
Itinerary 1: Palma,Andratx, Estellencs,Banyalbufar, Esporles,Palma
This route follows thePalma-Andratx highway(PM-1) as far as Andratx,where one takes the C-710to Banyalbufar, andthence on to Esporles andback to Palma via the PM-10and PM-12. The excursioninvolves a roundtrip ofapproximately 70 kilometres.
For hundreds of years thename of Andratx wasassociated with fierceresistance to Mediterraneanpirate raids and a steadystream of migration to theWest Indies. The most
interesting aspects of thetown are the alleys and lanesin the es Pantaleu Quarter, theGothic-style church with its
single aisle and thecommanding view from thecemetery.Estellencs, with its steepstreets, is perched on acliffside to the west of thecrags of Puig Galatzó . It
Andratx
Granja d’Esporles mansion-museum
Cabo d'esLlamp
Cabo deCala Figuera
Punta de saForadada
Galatzó1026
Tex1064
Bahía dePalma
Ensenada deSanta Ponça
CalaSant Elm
Cala Portals Vells
Cala deDeià
Cala deses Ortigues
P. NATURALSA DRAGONERA
SA DRAGONERA
Can Pastilla
Deià
PM-1719
PalmanovaPortals Nous
Santa Ponça
Port d'Andratx
Estellencs Esporles
Paguera
PalmaCalvià
Banyalbufar
Andratx
SI E
RR
A
DE
T RA
MU
NT A
NA
Valldemossa
710
16
overlooks a picturesque cove.Banyalbufar (from theoriginal Arabic, Ban-al-bahar)is situated on a terracedhillside, amidst irrigated fieldsand orchards. The town hasseveral defensive towers, themost notable being the Talaia(watchtower) de ses Ànimes,known as the Mirador(belvedere) de ses Ànimes,from which the entire north-western coast of the islandcan be seen. Nearby are anumber of pebbled coves andinlets.Esporles. In the vicinity of thetown, a visit can be paid tothe Granja d’Esporles, amansion-cum-ethnographicmuseum open to the public( 971 61 00 32). Thoughoriginally a Cistercianmonastery, the Granja laterbecame a stately home, whichnowadays displays aninteresting collection of farmimplements, utensils andartifacts connected with rurallife on Mallorca.
Itinerary 2: Palma,Valldemossa, Deià, Sóller,Palma
The Valldemossa-Sóller routeis one of the most popularamong tourists to Mallorca.Leaving Palma in the direction
of Valldemossa via the PM-111, branch off to Deiàfrom the C-710 to Sóller. The return trip from Sóller to Palma follows the C-711.Valldemossa is synonymouswith a long line of celebratednames. This town inspiredGeorges Sand, FrédéricChopin, Rubén Darío, Miguelde Unamuno and Azorín,among others. Worth visitingare the Carthusian Monastery,known as La Cartuja ( 971 61 21 06) and theparish church. Outstandingsights here include themonastery belfry and cloister,as well as the frescoes paintedby Goya’s brother-in-law, FriarMiguel Bayeu. There are manyinteresting country estates -known in Mallorca as“possessions”- such as Son
Valldemossa
Cabo d'esLlamp
Punta de saForadada
Mayor1445
Roig1000
Galatzó1026
Tex1064
Bahía dePalma
Cala de saCalobra
Ensenada deSanta Ponça
CalaSant Elm
Cala deDeià
Cala deses Ortigues
Platjade Palma
P. NATURALSA DRAGONERA
SA DRAGONERA
PalmanovaPortals Nous
Estellencs
Paguera
Banyalbufar
Can Pastilla
ses Olleries
Lloseta
713
710
719
715
PM-27
PM-19PM-1
711
Deià
s'Arenal
Port de Sóller
sa Calobra
Valldemossa
Son Sant Joan
PalmaCalvià
Sóller
Andratx
Santa Ponças'Aranjassa
sa Cabaneta
Consell
Binissalem Inca
Esporles
Port d'Andratx
Marratxí
Santa Mariadel Camí
Sencelles
Algaida
Son Marroig
S I E R R A D E
T R A MU N T A N A
Moragues, Son Gual, sa Comaand Son Mas. A narrowwinding road takes one to theTrinitat Hermitage and Port deValldemossa. By turning offthe access road to the Port,one reaches Caló de s’Estaca,an old fishing village.Sóller sits encircled bymountains, in a valley basinplanted with fruit trees,orange orchards and olivegroves. Close by, the PuigMajor massif, the highestpoint on the island, raises itshead. The town boasts anumber of palatial 18th- and19th-century mansions.
Flanked by its graceful belfryrebuilt in the 18th century, thereconstructed façade of theparish church is emblasonedwith the seal of the school ofthe architect, Antoni Gaudí. Adelightful, old-fashioned tramride takes one down to thenatural anchorage of Port deSóller, the town’s outlet to the sea.
Deià
710
719
715
PM-27
PM-19PM-1
711
Cabo d'esLlamp
Punta de saForadada
Mayor1445
Roig1000
Galatzó1026
Tex1064
Bahía dePalma
Cala de saCalobra
Ensenada deSanta Ponça
Cala deDeià
Cala deses Ortigues
Platjade PalmaPalmanova
Portals Nous
Estellencs
Paguera
Banyalbufar
Can Pastilla
ses Olleries
Lloseta
Pollença
Alcúdia
PortPolle
Inca
713
Cala Portals Vells Cabo Enderrocat
Cala de san Vicen
710
S I E R R A D E
T R A MU N T A N A
Deià
s'Arenal
Port de Sóller
sa Calobra
Valldemossa
Son Sant Joan
PalmaCalvià
Sóller
Andratx
Santa Ponça
s'Aranjassa
sa Cabaneta
Consell
Binissalem
Esporles
Marratxí Sencelles
Algaida
Santa Mariadel Camí
Llucmajor
MontuiriVilafrancade Bonany
Sineu
Costitx
Llubí
Muro
sa Pobla
PARQUE S´ALB
Itinerary 3: Palma, Inca,Pollença, Alcúdia, Palma
From Palma to Inca, the routeto take is the PM-27 highway.The road into Alcúdia, the C-713, is the continuation ofthis same highway.
Inca is the main town in theRaiguer district. Bordered bythe Tramuntana Range andthe Pla district, it embracestowns and villages scatteredover the island’s central plain.The “Dijous” market, the mostimportant in the area, is heldon Thursdays, while thesecond Thursday in Novemberheralds in the “Dijous Bo”, a
country fair that bringstogether people from all overthe island. The footwearproduced hereabouts hasbrought the towninternational renown. Visitorsare urged to taste a localfavourite, the savoury oval-shaped biscuits (a distantrelative of the traditionalship’s biscuit) known asgalletes d’Inca. Though Gothicoriginally, the Church of SantaMaría la Major (St. MaryMajor) was transformed into aBaroque edifice in the 18thcentury. The cloister of SantFrancesc is Baroque and theSant Domingo monastery hasa Baroque portal. The Puig deSanta Magdalena, fourkilometres outside Inca, is anold chapel built atop the1,000-foot outcrop of the Puigd’Inca
Pollença, situated at the footof the Tramuntana Range, isdominated by two hills, the
Pollença. Cala Figuera
712
714
715
Port d´Alcúdia
rt deença
enç Cala Figuera
Cala Murta
Bahíade
Pollença
Bahía deAlcúdia
FORMENTOR
Cabo Formentor
Petra
E NATURALBUFERA
19
Puig de Pollença and theCalvari (literally, calvary). It isthe birthplace of the poet,Miguel Costa i Llobera. A strollthrough the town’s streetsbrings to light several stonefountains, a charming parishchurch, the Roser Vell Oratoryand the Baroque Monastery ofSanto Domingo (St. Dominic’s),with its impressive cloister,16th-century retable and 18th-century Valencian organ.On the town’s outskirts is a well-preserved Roman
bridge. A curious sight is theCalvari hill, which one ascendsvia a long, cypress-borderedstairway of 365 steps. Onlyfive kilometres from Pollençais the tranquil resort of Portde Pollença, with its smallbeach and select tourism.Alcúdia lies at the base of thepeninsula separating the Baysof Pollença and Alcúdia. Localhighlights include the nearbyruins of Pollentia, the smallamphitheatre, and theremains of the town wall withits three gates. The parishchurch houses the Chapel ofthe Santísimo Sacramento(Holy Sacrament), with twointeresting retables, oneGothic, the other Baroque.Near Alcúdia is Port d’Alcúdia,with its albufera marshlandarea, the island’s main stretchof wetlands and an officiallydesignated Nature Reserve ( 971 89 22 50).
Pollença Bay
Cabo Formentor
Cabo Pinar
Cabo Farrutx
Mayor1445
Roig1000
Tex1064
Bahía deAlcúdia
Bahía dePalma
Cala de saCalobra
Cala Morland
Cala Moreia
Cala Bon
Cala Millo
Bahíade
Pollença
FORMENTOR
Cala Murta
Cala Fig
uera
Cala de S
ant V
icenç
Cala deDeià
Platjade Palma
Can Pastilla
Deià
Port d'Alcúdia
Port dePollença
ses Olleries
Sineu
715
Marratxí
Cuevasdel Drac
Cuevasdels Hams
AlgaidaPortocristo
Vilafrancade Bonany
Son Sant Joan
Montuiri
s'Aranjassa
PalmaManacor
Son Servera
Artà
Capdepera
Port de Sóller
Sóller
sa Calobra
Pollença
LlubíSanta Maria
del Camí Consell
Lloseta Inca
sa Pobla
Muro
Alcúdia
Petrasa CabanetaSencelles
Valldemossa
Costitx
S I E R R A D E
T R A MU N T A N A
Binissalem
PARQUE NATURALS'ALBUFERA
Cde
Cala Raja
710
712
713
711
715
PM-27
PM-19
Itinerary 4: Palma, Algaida,Sineu, Manacor, CalaRajada, Palma
The Palma-Cala Rajada road(C-715) traverses the wholeisland and opens out anexcellent range of possibilitiesfor the tourist. In Algaida,make sure to take the branchroad to Sineu (PM-313),particularly if it is aWednesday, the day on whichthe town’s picturesque weeklymarket is held.
Algaida is a stone’s throwfrom the Puig de Randa, thetiny village of Randa and theoratory of Nuestra Señora deGracia (Our Lady of Grace),dating from the 15th century.At the top of the Puig, fromwhich the view is simplybreathtaking, stands the CuraMonastery (SantuarioMonasterio de Cura), whereRamón Llull, the 14th-centuryphilosopher, theologian,
mystic and father figure ofCatalonian culture, wrotesome of his works.Sineu is undoubtedly themost interesting town in thecentral part of the island. Itwas in Sineu that King James(Jaume) II ordered a RoyalPalace built, a palace of whichvery little now remains. Thetown is the site of the majesticChurch of Santa María, withthe Lion of St. Mark presidingover the stairway. Sineu is atown of great elegance,
Sineu
da
a
ona
or
Cuevade Artà
ada
notable for its seigneurialhouses, famous Wednesdaylivestock market and cellers(wine-cellar-type bistros)offering tasty regionalcooking.Manacor is one of the island’sindustrial centres, with theemphasis on furniture,cultured pearls and objectscarved from olive wood. Localbuildings of note are theGothic parish church, parts ofwhich were reconstructed inthe same style in the 19thcentury, and the town hall,housed in an old 17th-century
monastery with a stunningcloister.Artà. The considerablenumber of archaeologicalsites, of which the settlementof ses Païses is the outstandingexample, bears eloquenttestimony to Artà’s rich past.The Artà Museum is definitelyworth seeing ( 971 82 95 95).Another sight to be
recommended in the town,situated in the Llevant district63 kilometres from Palma, isits medieval walled fortress,known as the Almudaina,complete with crenellatedramparts. Inside awaits St.Saviour’s Church (Santuario deSant Salvador) and, in the oldtown at the foot of the walledhilltop, are the archaeologicalmuseum, the cloister of the17th-century Sant Francescmonastery and the parishchurch, built in 1563. Points ofinterest along the coastinclude the Colònia de SantPere and the beaches of CalaTorta, sa Canova, es Matzocsand es Caló. The local fiestasheld in honour of St. Anthony(Sant Antoni) on 17th Januaryare famous, and featurebonfires, cavalcades andprocessions.Cala Rajada was one ofMallorca’s pioneer touristresorts. Despite the sweepingchanges seen in recent years,this town of seafarers andfisherman has lost none of itsold-world charm. This part ofthe coast marks the pointwhere Mallorca is the shortestdistance from theneighbouring island ofMenorca. It is well worthcalling ahead in order toarrange a tour of the Marchfamily mansion ( 971 56 30 33).
21
Artà. Talayots (prehistoricmonuments)
22
MENORCA
Itinerary 1: Mahón,Binibèquer, Cala en Porter,Alaior, es Mercadal, MonteToro, Fornells, Mahón
In and around Mahón, oneshould take time out to visitthe impressive naturalharbour, as well as theBinibèquer and Cala en Porterresidential developments.Inland, Alaior, es Mercadal(C-721) and of course Mt.Toro, are all worth the trip.The point to make for in thenorth is the portside town ofFornells (C-723).
Binibèquer Vell is the best-known tourist resort on theSant Lluís coast. It wasdesigned along the lines of asmall fishing village. Nearbyare the beaches of Binisafúa,Binidalí, Biniparratx and CalaTorret. Cala en Porter is one of themost popular beaches alongMenorca’s southern coast andis the site of a major resortand residential area. From thesea, one can spy Cova denXoroi, high up in the cliffs andnow converted into adiscotheque, the cave that -legend has it- was once thehaven and hideout of ashipwrecked buccaneer.Alaior was founded in 1304
Cala en Porter
23
by James II. Points to see hereare the parish Church of SantaEulàlia (17th century) and theformer cloister of the Churchof San Diego (17th century),with the quadrangle known ases Pati de sa Lluna (Courtyardof the Moon). Of equalinterest is Casa Salort, a noblemansion on the calle Mayor(calle, street). Alaior lies 12
kilometres from Mahón andits dairy industry is the sourceof most of the brands ofcheeses sold under the Mahónseal of origin. Aside from thenumerous villas, outstandingsights in the locality includethe Hermitage of Sant Llorençde Binixems, the prehistoricsettlement of Torre d’enGaumés, the Megalithic burialsite of Roques Llises and the Palaeochristian Basilica of Son Bou.
Cala en Porter
Cala Blanca
Cala Sta.Galdana
Cala d´Alcaufar
CalaPregonda
Cap de Cavalleria
Punta NatiCap Gros
Pta. del EsperóCap de Artrutx
Cap des Bisbe
Punta Rodona
Cap de Favàritx
AIRE
721
723
Fornells
es Mercadal
VillacarlosSant Lluís
Ferreries
es Migjorn Gran
Binibèquer
AlaiorMaó
Ciutadella
Playa de Son Bou
Fornells harbour. Es Mercadal
Alaior. Caves
26
Rising from es Mercadal arethe slopes of Mt. Toro (justover 1,100 ft.), the highestelevation on Menorca. Thetown is situated at the island’sgeographic centre, midwaybetween Mahón andCiutadella. It is renowned forits food and for producing thewell-known “albarques”, theshoe typical of Menorca.Fornells. Lying just eight anda half kilometres off, thissmall fishing harbour fallswithin the es Mercadalmunicipal area. The villageoriginally grew up in theshadow of the 17th-centuryCastle of San Antonio, and the
single factor responsible for itsgreatest growth has beentourism. Not to be missed hereare the restaurants serving thetypical caldereta de langosta(caldereta de llagosta -lobster stew made withpeppers, onion, tomato, garlicand herb liqueur).
Itinerary 2: Ciutadella,Ferreries, Cala Galdana
Ciutadella, Menorca’s formercapital, is an ideal “basecamp” for a number of sidetrips. The C-721 leads to
Ciutadella
27
Ferreries and, from here, onethen takes the PM-714 to CalaGaldana, the chief touristresort in the area.
Ferreries, at roughly 462 ft.above sea level, is the highesttown on Menorca. Groupedaround the Church of SantBartomeu (1870) are thetown’s oldest buildings. Asidefrom Cala Galdana, themunicipal boundariesencompass the beaches ofCala Calderer, Cala Moraguesand Cala del Pilar. On theSanta Agueda hillside lie theruins of the Moorish Castle ofSent Agayz, and the remainsof an old Roman road.Cala Galdana is Ferreries’tourist resort par excellence,though part of thedevelopment actually extendsinto the Ciutadella municipal
area. Curving along the rivermouth at the point where itopens out from the Algendarbarranco, this is one of themost popular beaches onMenorca. Cala Mitjana andCala Trabalúger are also in thevicinity.
Cala en Porter
Cala Blanca
Cala Galdana
Cala d´Alcaufar
CalaPregonda
Cap de Cavalleria
Punta NatiCap Gros
Pta. del EsperóCap de Artrutx
Cap des Bisbe
Punta Rodona
Cap de Favàritx
AIRE
721
723
Fornells
es Mercadal
VillacarlosSant Lluís
Ferreries
es Migjorn Gran
Binibèquer
AlaiorMaó
Ciutadella
Playa de Son Bou
Cala Galdana
28
IBIZA AND FORMENTERA
Itinerary 1: Ibiza, SantaEulària, Portinatx, Corona,Sant Antoni, Salines
The entire isle of Ibiza can betoured by taking a route thatleaves the city of Ibiza andcircles back, after visiting themost important towns, SantaEulària and Sant Antoni dePortmany, plus Portinatxbeach, the Corona countrydistrict and the area ofsaltpans and saltmarshes.
Santa Eulària des Riu. AfterSant Josep de sa Talaia, SantaEulària des Riu lays claim tothe largest municipal area onIbiza. Until a few years agothe Santa Eulària river ran for
a distance of 11 kilometres.Local sights include theRoman bridge and ruinednecropolis. One should climbthe Puig de Missa on foot,right to the summit where thestarkly white 16th-centuryfortress-church stands.
Cala Salada
Cala Saona
Punta des Moscarter
Punta des Jonc
Cap des Llibrell
Cap des Falcó
Cap deBalansat
Punta de sa Pedrera Punta Prima
Punta de sa Creu
Punta RotjaCap de Barbària
Cap Llentrisca
Cap d´Aubarca
Punta Prima
IBIZA(EIVISSA)
S´ESPARDELLS'ESPALMADOR
TAGOMAGO
CONILLERA73
3731
Sant Carles
Portinatx
Sant Miquel
Sant Joan Baptista
Sant Jordi
Sant Francesc de Formenterasa Savina
es Pujols
el Pilar de la Mola
Santa Eulària des RiuSant Antoni de Portmany
Sant Josep Ibiza (Eivissa)
Platja de Sta. Eulàlia
Santa Eulària des Riu
29
Portinatx, formerly a small fishing village, has becomeone of Ibiza’s tourist landmarks. The coast alongthis particular stretch ofshoreline is sheer, makingapproach difficult. Nearby,Cala Xarraca is outstanding.The best panoramic view ofPortinatx and the adjacentcoast can be enjoyed from thePort de Portinatx Tower.The Pla de Corona is not onlyone of the island’s most fertileregions but is also one of the
remaining strongholds of ruralIbiza, with relatively fewbuildings and a populationthat is mainly composed ofsmallholders. The village ofSanta Agnès de Corona (Ibizanvillages are in truth more acollection of houses groupedunder the umbrella of thelocal parish church) isrepresentative of a number ofrural parishes scattered aboutthe island.
Sant Antoni de Portmany isIbiza’s second largest town interms of population and thechief leisure andentertainment centre on theisland. It embraces theparishes of Santa Agnès deCorona, Sant Mateu d’Albarcaand Sant Rafel de Forca. Tothe Moors it was Portumanyand to the Romans, PortusMagnus. Located on a bay ofthe same name, it is animportant terminal for ferriesplying between Ibiza,Formentera and Denia (onmainland Spain). Its 14th-century parish churchwarrants special mention. Thebeaches on the west of theisland are extremely popular:Cala d’Hort, Cala Tarida, CalaLlantia, Cala Llosar, CalaCodolar, Cala Roja, CalaComte, Cala Bassa, Cala Saladaand Cala Gració.
Sant Antoni de Portmany. Cape Nono
Portinatx
30
Ses Salines lies in theenvirons of the airport. Thisarea is an important nesting and stopover site formigratory seabirds, water fowland waders. The saltpans andmarshland are separated fromthe sea to the south, east andwest by a system of beaches oflocal chalkstone and sand.
Itinerary 2: La Savina, SantFrancesc de Formentera, esPujols, La Mola.
The Isle of Formentera isperfect for touring by bicycle.The distances and the climatenot only make this possible butpositively encourage it.
Formentera is the smallest ofthe Balearic Isles (82 sq. km.).Sant Francesc de Formentera isthe only town on the islandand acts as the focal point andhub for the four areas ofsettlement: Pilar de la Mola, esPujols, Sant Ferran de sesRoques and la Savina. Situatednear Estany Pudent, halfwaybetween la Savina, the island’ssole port facility, and SantFerran, practically all officialservices are concentrated here.
Cala Salada
Cala Saona
Punta des Moscarter
Punta des Jonc
Cap des Llibrell
Cap des Falcó
Cap deBalansat
Punta de sa Pedrera Punta Prima
Punta de sa Creu
Punta RotjaCap de Barbària
Cap Llentrisca
Cap d´Aubarca
Punta Prima
S´ESPARDELLS'ESPALMADOR
TAGOMAGO
CONILLERA
IBIZA(EIVISSA)
733
731
Sant Carles
Portinatx
Sant Miquel
Sant Joan Baptista
Sant Jordi
Sant Francesc de Formenterasa Savina
es Pujols
el Pilar de la Mola
Santa Eulària des RiuSant Antoni de Portmany
Sant Josep Ibiza (Eivissa)
Platja de Sta. Eulàlia
La Savina harbour
31
In the olden days, the Churchof Sant Francesc was used as afort to fend off maraudingcorsairs. Es Pujols is the main touristresort on the island, home tothe majority of hotels andnightspots. The Pilar de la Mola is thehighest point on Formentera,the ancient Frumentaria of theRomans. Before reaching thePilar, a panoramic view of theentire island opens up, with thebeach of Migjorn on one sideand es Pujols, on the other.
Migjorn beach
Windmill
32
City visits
(Palma, Mahón, Ciutadellaand Ibiza)
Palma
The Balearic capital is set alonga bay 20 kilometres across and25 kilometres long. Half ofMallorca’s population lives inPalma, a name already given tothis city by the Romans as longago as 120 B.C., when theyfounded it on a hilltopdominating the bay. All thatremains of the Roman Palmaare some remnants of the wallsin the Almudaina. In the 10thcentury, the Moors placed acurtain wall around MedinaMayurka, the city that theCatalonian troops of James I the
Conqueror were to take in1229. The new victors translatedthe place name and called thecity, Ciutat de Mallorques. Theymain Moorish buildings wererazed to the ground and theGothic Cathedral erected. Then,in 1715, under the terms of theNueva Planta Decree, theCatalonian place name wasformally banned and, in itsstead, the Roman “Palma”restored.
Travellers arriving by sea get asuperb vista of all the “musts”:Bellver Castle, sa Llotja (oldcommercial exchange), theAlmudaina (the old Citadel) andthe Cathedral. The whole routeshould be done on foot. Hardlyany distance at all separates the
Palma. Cathedral and Almudaina(fortress/residence)
33
Cathedral from the Almudaina,the Mallorcan Museum and theMoorish Baths.
The Cathedral ( 971 72 31 30)stands on the site of the formerMoorish mosque. Gothic in style,work on its construction beganduring the reign of James II,with the building being finallyconsecrated in 1601. In additionto the church itself, there is afine Baroque cloister and aninteresting Cathedral Museum,displaying excellent Gothicpaintings and sculptures.
Opposite the Cathedral, justacross the Plaza de l’Almoina,is the Almudaina( 971 71 43 68). Nowadays theH.Q. for the Balearics MilitaryHigh Command, it began life asan alcázar (fortress/residence) ofthe Moorish Walis’ Caliphate
(11th-13th centuries) beforebeing converted into a palace byJames II (14th century).
The Mallorcan Museum( 971 71 75 40), housed in thewhat was formerly the Desbrullmansion, and the 10th-centuryMoorish Baths (Banys Arabs) -the best preserved remains fromMallorca’s Moorish period- formpart of the Cathedral Quarter.The courtyards (patios) ofPalma’s old seigneurial mansionsare in a class of their own.
Sa Llotja ( 971 71 17 05), averitable masterpiece ofMallorcan civic Gothic, served asthe seat of the governing bodyof the Merchants’ Guild, as wellas the site of the old commercialexchange. These days itoccasionally acts as a hall fortemporary exhibitions.Adjoining the sa Llotja, is theMaritime Consulate (Consolatde Mar), which nowadayshouses the Balearics Regional
Palma. Bellver Castle
Palma. Consulado del Mar (MaritimeConsulate)
34
Authority. The MaritimeConsulate (17th century) wasoriginally a Merchant ShippingTribunal which settledcommercial and trade-relateddisputes. The façade is notablefor its superb Renaissancearches.
The City Hall (Ayuntamiento)( 971 72 77 44) is a fineexample of Mallorcan Baroqueand one of the city’s landmarkbuildings. Popularly known asthe Cort, it was built on the siteof what had been a hospital.The present structure dates fromthe 16th and 17th centuries andis spectacular for its façade.Inside, visitors are limited tothose parts of the building thatare officially open to the public.
The Church of St. Eulalia, inthe square at the rear of theCity Hall, was the first Christianchurch built in Palma and is agood instance of CatalonianGothic. Sant Francesc, SantaClara, El Socorro, Sant Miqueland Monti–Sion (on the site ofan old synagogue) are furtherchurches of note in the OldQuarter.
Highlights in the newer partsof the city include themodernist buildings on thePlaza Weyler, particularly theGran Hotel, now restored andrefurbished as the head officeof the La Caixa Foundation (a Catalonian savings bank)
Palma. Sa Llotja (commercialexchange)
35
and, in its time, the first hotelever built in Palma. It’s an easywalk from the City Hall, via thePlaza Mayor (Main Square).
Bellver Castle wasconstructed in the 13th centuryat the time of James II and,though never used as adefensive stronghold, served asa prison in different periods. Itis the only building which isnot within easy walkingdistance of the city centre.From October to March it isopen to the public from 8 a.mto 6 p.m., and from April toSeptember from 8 a.m to 10p.m. The Castle overlooks theEl Terreno Quarter and the Bayof Palma. ( 971 73 06 57).
Mahón
The origins of the capital ofMenorca are somewhat cloudybut tradition attributes thefoundation of the firstsettlement to the Carthaginiangeneral, Magón, brother ofHannibal.
Mahón lies at the innermostend of one of the world’slargest natural harbours. Withits three-mile long channel anda width that ranges from 780 to2,600 feet, it is one of the keystrategic points on theMediterranean. As withMallorca, the Mahón city tourshould be conducted on foot:all points lie close to oneanother and can be seen duringthe course of a leisurely stroll.Mahón harbour
36
A sight not to be missed is theChurch of Santa María, withits splendid organ. This isMahón’s largest church and itssturdy bell tower is a distinctivesilhouette on the city’s skyline.Inside, one of its outstandingfeatures is the 19th-centuryorgan, which has been roundlypraised for the power andquality of its sound.
The noble edifice of the CityHall (Ayuntamiento) ( 971 36 98 00) lies adjacentto the church. It is also knownby the name, Sa Sala, and on itsfaçade still conserves the clockbrought to Menorca at thebehest of Kane, the then BritishGovernor.
During office hours, visitors areallowed into certain parts ofthe building; be sure to try andsee the Great Hall that is reserved for plenary sessions, itswalls hung with portraits ofMahón’s most illustrious sons.
The Carrer Nou pedestrianprecinct, to which one getsfrom the City Hall, is one of thecity’s busiest sections. Of specialtourist interest here are theshops selling traditionalMenorcan produce and wares,such as cheese, gin, costumejewellery and footwear.
Great part of Mahón’s daily liferevolves around the Colón,Bastió, Sant Francesc, Reial,Miranda and Conquestasquares (plazas), with theirelegant bourgeois mansionsand historic buildings.
In the port area be sure to visitthe distilleries that makeMenorcan gin, using the verysame methods followed underBritish rule. Also in this area are
Mahón. Stately mansion in Plaza delPrincipe
Mahón. San Roque Gate
37
some of the island’s bestrestaurants, plus a score ofnightspots, open-air cafés andbars where one can have adrink at any time of the day ornight.
Ciutadella
Ciutadella had always been thecapital of Menorca until theBritish, who held sway over theisland during the major part ofthe 18th century, moved thecapital to Mahón. The city lies45 kilometres from Mahón andis still the official seat of theMenorcan bishopric. It is wellworth visiting the Old Quarter,with its medieval streets andnoble palaces. As with theother Balearic cities, Ciutadellahas to be seen on foot. The bestadvice is to lose oneself in themaze of narrow lanes andalleys criss-crossing the OldQuarter. Among the chief sightsto be seen are:
Mahón. Market
Ciutadella. Sant Nicolau Castle
38
The Olives Mansion, with itssevere Neoclassical façade, islocated right opposite the maindoor of the cathedral. Ondisplay inside are someinteresting frescoes bearinganimal motifs and a Romanstatuette unearthed at thePujol Antic archaeological siteon the island. The Vivó, along with the SalortMansion, overlooking the Born,has a Neoclassical façadepainted red with traditionalMenorcan motifs. It is one of
the city’s hallmarks.The Salort Mansion, near theCathedral, is the only houseopen to the public, thoughaccess is restricted. It is openduring the morning over thesummer months. The entirebuilding is a museum that isworth exploring.
The Palace of the Count ofSaura, also near the Cathedral,is graced by one of the mostbeautiful façades in Ciutadella.Although visits are not allowed,from the street one can hazarda pretty accurate guess at theinterior beauty of this building,last refurbished in the 17thcentury.From the look-out point,situated behind the City Hall,one is treated to a magnificent view of the harbour area.
Ciutadella. Salort Mansion and Saura Palace
Ciutadella. Marina
Ciutadella Harbour is nomore than a deep creek thatpenetrates into the very heartof the city. It is nevertheless ofsufficient depth toaccommodate deep-draughtvessels.
The Born, with an obelisk at itscentre, was formerly the plazade armas (i.e., main ceremonialsquare and gathering place intimes of upheaval) and is nowthe venue for a number ofpublic events during the year,the most memorable of whichare the fiestas and daringequestrian displays held tomark St. John’s Day (San Juan).
The Cathedral is regarded asthe most monumental churchon the island. Historians tell usthat the Menorcan cathedralwas constructed on the site of amosque bigger in size than thatof Medina Minurka, and thatthe only extant remains are tobe found in the belfry, the
erstwhile minaret. The church,Catalonian Gothic in style,possesses a single spacious aisleand six side-chapels.
One of Ciutadella’s most typicalsights is the calle Josep MaríaQuadrado, with its arcades,known locally as Ses Voltes. It isthis feature that lends thecommon touch to Ciutadella’s
noble architecture, which tendsto abound in convents,monasteries, churches andpalatial mansions.
St. Clare’s Convent (SantaClara) stands in the centre of acharming quarter ofcobblestone alleyways, andtoday hardly retains anythingof the original building, whichwas sacked by the OttomanTurks in the 16th century.
39
Ciutadella. Olives Mansion
Ciutadella. Cathedral
40
The cloister of the Church ofSocors is another of the city’shighlights. By going up thecalle Castell Rupit and keepingto the Seminary wall, onecomes out at the point wherethe building stands on the calleSantíssim. Originally anAugustinian monastery, thecloister -one of Ciutadella’struly unique gems- was builtusing money raised by the friarsfrom the sale of noble titleswhich they had procured fromPhilip IV.
As regards fiestas andfestivities, Ciutadella reignssupreme. Menorca’s most classicfiesta is the city’s annualcelebration held on 23rd and24th June to mark St. John’sDay. In a 600-year-old tradition,
medievally clad riders and theirmounts pick their way through the thronged streets, goingright in amongst the crowd, thepirouetting steeds being urgedup onto their hind legs (theJaleo). In the immediate localityof Ciutadella, one can visit thebeaches of Cala Santandria andSon Saura, as well as thefamous Megalithic mausoleumof Naveta des Tudons, just fivekilometres outside the citylimits.
Ciutadella. Plaza del Born
Ciutadella. Naveta des Tudons(prehistoric mausoleum)
41
Ibiza
The capital of the PitiusesIslands (Ibiza and Formentera)preserves many vestiges of itspast. By the 6th century B.C., itwas already a very importantPhoenician-Punic colony for itstime. From Carthage’s point ofview, the city was a strategicbase from which it coulddominate the Mediterranean.
The necropolis of Puig desMolins is a clear example of thispinnacle in the city’s earlyhistory. As its name (i.e., “Puig”) indicates, the site issituated on one of the city’s high
points and the mills (i.e., “molins”) refer to flour millsthat existed in the area duringthe last century. Close on 4,000tombs dating from the Punic andRoman periods have been foundon the site of the necropolis.
Ibiza’s historical Old Quarterand main sights are centred inthe Upper Town (Dalt Vila),declared a World Heritage Cityby the UNESCO, where one canvisit the Archaeological Museum ( 971 30 17 71), with itsextensive collection of Punicand Phoenician exhibits. Theusual way into the Upper Town
Ibiza
42
is through the so-called Portalde ses Taules, one of the gatesof the walled Renaissancecitadel which once served as afortress. Located inside thewalls are most of Ibiza’s
interesting buildings and thetour ought therefore to bedone on foot.
The outstanding feature of theEpiscopal Palace, whichstands on the Cathedral Square,is its splendid door. On paymentof a small entrance fee, theCathedral may be visited duringthe following times: summer, 10 a.m.- 7 p.m.; winter 10 a.m.- 4 p.m. In harmony with the remainder of theisland, the Cathedral is sober instyle. Visitors should see theadjoining Cathedral Museum,
View from Dalt Vila (Upper Town - Old Quarter)
Town view
43
where the prize piece is themonstrance (custodia), a workof art wrought in preciousmetals.
The Castle or Almudainamarks the city’s highest point.From the sea it rivals theCathedral in prominence, withits stout defensive walls andoriginal old keep, probablyMoorish in origin. The wholewas gradually built over theperiod from the 6th to the 18thcenturies.
The City Hall (Ayuntamiento)( 971 39 75 00) is housed inthe Predicadores Monastery, abuilding affected by thedisentailment and sale ofchurch property. Restored andadapted to new needs, it too isworth seeing.
In addition to the statelymansions, the Church of St.Dominic (Sant Domingo), theseminary and narrow lanesleading into the Old Quarterare all “musts”.From the Dalt Vila, one gets asuperb view of the port below,with the old and very typical saPenya Quarter in theforeground, the perfect placefor a relaxed exploratory stroll.
Also near the port is the Paseode Vara de Rey, the very heartof city life. From here onecontinues down to the harbour.Almost half the island’s entirepopulation live in this one city.The rest of the inhabitants aredivided among the fourremaining towns.
Ibiza harbour
44
Leisure andentertainment
Golf The Mallorcan winter hasrecovered the former splendourof that distant age when it
attracted the first visitors to theisland. The Balearics’ many golfcourses have made the islands atruly privileged place to playthe game. The negligible traveltime separating Mallorca fromany point in northern Europehas served to dispel any possibledoubts golfing enthusiastsmight otherwise have hadwhen opting for one of theislands’ 14 available courses.
HorseracingYet, if a tourist really wished toimmerse him/herself in localcolour and atmosphere, there’s no doubt that he/sheshould make a beeline for anyof the racecourses on Mallorca,
Menorca or Ibiza where harnessor sulky races are held, a type ofracing that is extremely wellestablished in the islands. Racesare usually run on theweekends. The Balearics enjoy along tradition of horsemanshipand visitors wanting to goriding will find that most of themain tourist areas haveinnumerable ranchos (stables)with horses for hire.
SailingSailing is, without doubt, theone sport that has trulyrocketed in popularity in recentyears. Dotted along the Balearic
shoreline, there is a plentifulsupply of sailing clubs and yachtbasins offering a comprehensiverange of services, apart fromthe standard facilities of yachtberth and hire. Furthermore,
Mallorca. Pollença. Horseriding
Ibiza. Santa Eulària des Riu. Golf course
marinas and pleasure harboursare, as often as not, a homebase for scuba-diving schools,which are in heavy demand.
AquaparksAquaparks have become aninteresting and very successfulattraction, especially amongyoung children. Aqua Park inMagaluf and Aqua City ins’Arenal, are two of the biggest.On the Sant Llorenç desCardassar coast, sa Coma ishome to a car safari park, thatis open all year round ( 971 81 09 09). Animal loverscan also visit Marineland, withits unforgettable show,featuring trained dolphins, sealsand parrots ( 971 67 51 25). It is situated in the Calviàdistrict in Costa d’en Blanes,adjoining the beach.
Entertainment Palma, Mahón and Ibiza, therespective capitals of the trio ofmain islands, tend to accountfor the lion’s share of cultural
activities. Of the three, Palmaoffers by far the widest choice.Eleven cinemas, one of whichscreens films in the originalversion, plus more than fivetheatres, ensure a varied billthat is rounded off by aconsiderable number of artgalleries, exhibition rooms anda lively programme of lecturesand cultural events.
NightlifeIsland nightlife positively humswith possibilities, dependingonly on individual preferencesand tastes. The resort areassuffer no shortage of
discotheques and nightspots.The pace is not quite asfrenzied in the cities, thoughclubs and bars can be foundopen at any time of day or night.
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Ibiza. San Rafael. Sulky racing
Menorca. Ciutadella. Marina
46
Local cuisineIn any corner of the Balearic Islesone will have no trouble infinding restaurants specialising ininternational cuisine, yet it issomehow more difficult to comeacross good restaurants servingup the superb specialities ofisland cuisine. With its inevitablelocal peculiarities, Baleariccooking is a reflection ofMediterranean cuisine. In addition to the succulentsobrasada (a spicy red sausagespread made of finely mincedraw meat, cured and seasonedwith paprika and cayennepepper), pork is the basicingredient for many of theprincipal dishes. Along with theensaimada (a sweet, magicallyfluffy, half-bun half-pastry with aflattened coiled turban-likeshape, made from flour and saïmor lard), Mahón cheese andmayonnaise (the original salsamahonesa) are just some of thedelicacies of an island cuisinewhich is also rich in spirits andliqueurs, with pride of placegoing to palo (a drinkresembling vermouth, madefrom the carob bean), the localgin, a range of sweet and dryherb liqueurs, and, last but notleast, the Ibizan frígola.
Among Balearic cuisine’s classicdishes, special mention should bemade of the Mallorcan soups(sopas mallorquinas) which, far
from being of the consommétype, are a nourishing blend ofmeat and a variety of vegetablesin season, plus thinly cut slices of(brown) bread, onion andtomato. Another very tasty itemis tumbet, a ratatouille-likebaked vegetable dish, usuallycooked in a greixera (casserole)and containing potatoes, friedpeppers and aubergines(eggplant), all covered withtomato sauce and seasoned withbay leaf. This can beaccompanied by meat or fish.Rice dishes with fish (brut) arealso much appreciated. Yet thesimplest and perhaps mostpopular dish is pa amb oli, whichconsists of several slices of breadgenerously sprinkled with oliveoil and rubbed with tomates deramillete, these being a smaller,softer and riper variety oftomato, bound together andsold in strings. Once prepared,
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this bread can then be used as abase for the widest variety oftoppings, though the most usualare cheese, sausage meats andham, always accompanied by thetraditional bitter olives(trencades).
Fiestas and festivitiesThe single most outstandingevent in the Balearic festivecalendar is the St. John’s Day(Sant Joan) Fiesta in Ciutadella.This is the Menorcan fiesta parexcellence. The remainingcelebrations involving horses andhorsemanship might be similar,yet not one attracts as muchattention or boasts the characteror tradition of the Sant JoanFiesta, which must rank amongthe most colourful and eye-catching of all those held inSpain. Of uncertain origin, the summerfeast days celebrated in Menorcastar horses and riders in the
leading role. Ciutadella’s St.John’s Day celebrations, held on23rd and 24th June, open thecycle of summertime festivities inMenorca. While the fiesta hasundergone manytransformations, its wellspring is
said to be religious. It should be rememberedhowever that the fiesta calendarinvolves all the months of theyear. In Mallorca, the St. Anthonybonfire festivities in mid-Januaryare very popular. Over Easter,many religious activities takeplace in all towns on the islandsand, in the days following HolyWeek itself, pilgrimageexcursions are organised tonearby hermitages and shrines.In summer, practically all townsin the Balearics celebrate theirseasonal fiestas. On ChristmasEve, churches on the island of Mallorca respect the ancestraltradition of singing the Sibil.laat midnight mass.
Menorca. Fiestas
Ibiza. Typical country dance
USEFUL ADDRESSES
Area Dialling CodeInternational: 34
TOURIST INFORMATION TURESPAÑA 901 300 600www.tourspain.es
Balearic Tourist BoardCalle Montenegro, 5, 07012 Palma
971 17 61 91. Fax 971 17 61 85IBATUR (Balearic Tourism Institute)Calle Montenegro, 5, 07012 Palma
971 17 61 91 Fax 971 17 71 55Foment de Turisme de Mallorca (Mallorcan Tourist Promotions)Constitució, 1, 1r., 07001 Palma
971 72 53 96. Fax 971 71 35 40Foment de Turisme de Menorca(Menorcan Tourist Promotions)Calle del Nord, 4, 07702 Mahón
971 36 23 77. Fax 971 35 20 66Foment de Turisme d’Ibiza (Ibiza Tourist Promotions)Calle Historiador Josep Clapés, 4,07800 Ibiza
971 30 24 90. Fax 971 30 22 62
Balearic Central Hotel/HolidayApartment Booking Office
971 70 60 06. Fax 971 47 09 81
Tourist Information OfficesMallorca07012 Palma. Plaza de la Reina, 2
971 71 22 16. Fax 971 72 02 51Palma Airport 971 78 95 5607002 Palma. Plaza Espanya (Stand) 971 71 15 2707001 Palma. Sant Domingo, 11
971 72 40 90. Fax 971 72 02 4007184 Calvià. Can Vich, 29
971 13 91 09. Fax 971 13 91 4607410 Alcúdia. Carretera de Artà, 68
/ Fax 971 89 26 1507560 Cala Millor(Son Servera). Passeig Marítim
/ Fax 971 58 58 64
07590 Cala Rajada(Capdepera). Plaza dels Pins
971 56 30 33. Fax 971 56 52 5607638 Colònia de Sant Jordi (Ses Salines). Doctor Barraquer, 5
971 65 60 73. Fax 971 65 64 4707108 Port de Sóller (Sóller)Canonge Oliver, 10 971 63 30 4207680 Portocristo (Manacor). Calle Gual, 31-A
/ Fax 971 82 09 3107600 S’Arenal (Llucmajor) Plaza de la Reina Mª Cristina
971 44 04 1407170 Valldemossa. Cartoixa deValldemossa 971 61 21 06
Menorca07700 Mahón. Mahón Airport
971 15 71 1507703 MahónPlaza de Esplanada, 40
971 36 37 90. Fax 971 36 74 15
Ibiza07800 Ibiza. Antonio Riquer, 2
971 30 19 00. Fax 971 30 15 6207840 Santa Eulària des RiuMariano Riquer Wallis
971 33 07 28. Fax 971 33 29 5907820 Sant Antoni de PortmanyPasseig de ses Fonts
971 34 33 63. Fax 971 34 41 75
Formentera07870 Sant Francesc deFormentera. Port de la Savina
971 32 20 57. Fax 971 32 28 25
USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS
Emergencies 112
Airports: Palma: 971 78 90 99Ibiza: 971 80 90 00Menorca: 971 15 70 00
Trasmediterránea (Ferries): Palma 902 45 46 45
Road & Highway information900 123 505
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SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATIONOFFICES ABROADCanada. TorontoTourist Office of Spain 2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402 TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2
1416 / 961 31 31 Fax 1416 / 961 19 92 e-mail: [email protected] Britain. LondonSpanish Tourist Office Manchester Square, 22-23 LONDON W1M 5AP
44207 / 486 80 77 Fax 44207 / 486 80 34 e-mail: [email protected]. Tokyo Tourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-KuTOKIO-105
813 / 34 32 61 41Fax 813 / 34 32 61 44e-mail: [email protected]. MoscowSpanish Tourist Office Tverskaya-16/2 Business Center“Galeria Aktor” 6ª floorMoscow 103009
7095 / 935 83 97 Fax 7095 / 935 83 96 e-mail: [email protected]. SingaporeNational Tourist Office of Spain541 Orchard Road. Liat Tower 09-04Singapore 238881
65 7 / 37 30 08 Fax 65 7 / 37 31 73 e-mail: [email protected] States of AmericaLos Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211
1323 / 658 71 95 Fax 1323 / 658 10 61 e-mail: [email protected]. Tourist Office of Spain Water Tower Place, suite 915 East845, North Michigan AvenueCHICAGO, ILL 60-611
1312 / 642 19 92 Fax 1312 / 642 98 17 e-mail: [email protected]. Tourist Office of Spain 1221 Brickell Avenue MIAMI, Florida 33131
1305 / 358 19 92 Fax 1305 / 358 82 23e-mail: [email protected]
New York. Tourist Office of Spain 666 Fifth Avenue 35 th floor NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103
1212 / 265 88 22 Fax 1212 / 265 88 64 e-mail: [email protected]
EMBASSIES IN MADRIDCanada: Núñez de Balboa, 35
91 431 43 00. Fax 91 431 23 67Great Britain: Fernando el Santo, 16
91 319 02 00. Fax 91 308 10 33Japan: Serrano, 109
91 590 76 00. Fax 91 590 13 21Russia: Velazquez, 155
91 562 22 64. Fax 91 562 97 12United States of America: Serrano, 75
91 587 22 00. Fax 91 587 23 03
CONSULATESGreat Britain: Plaza Mayor, 3 D07002 PALMA. 971 71 24 45Avda. Isidoro Macabich, 45 07800 IBIZA. 971 30 18 18Sa Casa Nova, Camí de Biniatap 30 Es Castell 07720 MENORCA. 971 36 33 73United States of America: Avd. Jaime III, 26 07012 PALMA. 971 72 26 60
Written by:Bartomeu Amengual Gomila
Translated by:Michael D. Benedict
Photographs:Turespaña photographic archives
Graphic design:Florencio García
Published by© Turespaña
Secretaría de Estado de Comercioy Turismo
Ministerio de Economía
Printed by:Grafoffset, S.L.
D. L.: M. 30.387-2000
NIPO: 104-00-018-5
Printed in Spain
3rd Edition
Bal
earic
Isl
esSp
ain
TurespañaSecretaría de Estado de Comercio y Turismo Ministerio de Economía
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