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Giant Honeycomb Chandelier {step by step version}by davidandora on February 2, 2012
Table of Contents
Giant Honeycomb Chandelier {step by step version} . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intro: Giant Honeycomb Chandelier {step by step version} . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 1: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Step 2: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Step 3: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Step 4: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Step 5: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
http://www.instructables.com/id/Giant-Honeycomb-Chandelier-1/
Intro: Giant Honeycomb Chandelier {step by step version}
This instructable is our effort to win the most awesome grand prize for the Shopbot contest. I am part of a very small group of friends, artists and creativeengineers who are constantly dreaming up fun ideas for projects. We are lucky enough to find funding for many of them like with this nightclub where thiswas constructed. We also collectively use CNC routed products extensively, but always outsource those. Having a CNC router and AutoCAD would be themost amazing catalyst for us and I can guarantee would result in some genuine advancements in our creative endeavors. - speaking as humbly as I can;collectively, I don't know of a more deserving group. Now onto the Instructable...--------------------------------------------------------------------This is a custom chandelier designed and built for Chicago nightclub, "Nikki", formerly Crobar. It was built on the request for a more permanent structure based on asimilar installation I designed and built from large mylar balloons. See the image of the gold metallic chandelier .This "chandelier" is 13' in diameter. Built from 126 Mirrored hexagons. 90 white framed hexagons.Lighting consists of 126 small light bulbs in 12 channels and a trio of color changing LED fixtures.With the exception of the steel hoops, which we had outsourced, this was designed and built entirely by myself and fellow Instructable maker, Sean Hunt. The finishedresult is especially spectacular in person, as the reflected surfaces and negative spaces really mess with your mind and it becomes difficult to really understand what youare looking at. :-)
Before I begin, here are all the detailed specs for the materials used in this project:
Large outer ring of hexagons made from 1/2" white ULTRA BOARD (polystyrene faced foam board), routed to aprox. 26 1/2" wide.5 interlocking hexagon rows tall (83 total)12' 5" diameter, 39' circumference, support pipe is 1" welded steel made from 3 segments of bent pipe.13" spacing of each vertical strand. 3" space in between each hexagon.drop ceiling hang wire was used to suspend everything on this outer ring:25 1/8" , 22 1/2" on top. (not counting bend and any hang over) 18: 30 1/4", 18: 7 3/4"43 lbs total weight.
Smaller inner ring of hexagons made from 1/2" black/polished aluminum ULTRA BOARD (polystyrene/aluminum faced foam board), routed to aprox. 18 3/4" wide.7 interlocking hexagon rows tall (126 total)9' 8.5" diameter, 28.5 ft. circumference, support pipe is 1" welded steel made from 2 segments of bent pipe.9.5" spacing of each vertical strand. (3" space in between)Each vertical strand is wired together with 18/2 guage black lamp cord, hot-glued into place, running vertically over the center, and with a C9 lamp socket fit into thecenter hole of the hexagon.Sockets and bulbs from actionlighting.com:http://www.actionlighting.com/c9-socket-spt2-green-100-bag-bag/http://www.actionlighting.com/c9-7watt-christmas-bulb/2 rolls of 250 ft. long 18/2 gauge black lamp cord were used to support and wire these hexagons.107 lbs. total weight.
3 DMX Dimmer packs were utilized to control theC9 bulbs, in 3 identical sets of 12 channels. I used 3 compact units from Elation/American DJ: DP 415
1' 8"+ spacing between inner and outer support pipes8 1/16" steel cables hung from each pipe hoop to the center hang point. We used a 1/2 ton chain hoist.The cables were measured to permit the outer hoop to hang a bit higher than the inner.
Image Notes1. close up view of the finished structure.
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Image Notes1. The finished structure!
Image Notes1. This was the original structure, built from gold mylar balloons. It was awesome,but lasted only about 2 weeks.
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Step 1: Step 1: Choose a shape to work with and decide how big you want the chandelier to be. We chose hexagons which create a honeycomb pattern but you could use anyrepeatable shape. Once you know the circumference of your structure you can divide it to find out how may individual pieces you will need and what size they should be.Since we were making 2 concentric cylinders of different sizes we did this with both.
Image Notes1. This is the complete set of outer hexagon frames
Image Notes1. This is the complete set of mirrored hexagons
Step 2: Step 2: Get the materials. Working on a large scale, we had all of our pieces cut out of a foam core product, by a company that does CNC Routing. Our outer ring waslarge hexagon frames, our inner ring was smaller, solid, mirror faced hexagons with a hole in the center for a small lightbulb, also prepped by the routing company. For asimpler fixture on a smaller budget, this could be made much smaller, out of a different material, or only one layer thick. The other major component is a large ring toattach your shapes to. We had a pipe bending company make pieces for us and a welder put them together. A smaller, less heavy version of this could be made withaluminum, fiberglass, or even a hula-hoop.
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Image Notes1. The polished aluminum board has a protective film which wasn't removeduntil we would not be handling them.
Image Notes1. We had these pipes bent by a local pipe bending co. in two and threesections, then welded on location.
Image Notes1. this template helped center the hole drill bit to route out the back of eachhexagon just up to the aluminum facing to permit a flush mounted socket.
Image Notes1. This shows the very subtly larger hole that was routed out from the back sideof each of these hexagons to permit the C9 lamp socket to push up to the backof the aluminum facing.
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Step 3: Step 3: Preliminary assembly . Our 2 layers were assembled differently because of the electrical component of the inner ring.A. The aluminum faced hexagons were assembled using lamp cord and hot glue. We set up a table with a template to keep the spacing between the hexagons correctand consistent. After inserting the light socket in the hole, lamp wire was attached, pulled tight, and hot-glued to the back of the hexagon. At this time we also attachedsmall eyelets to the side edges of each hexagon, which will later be used to keep them aligned. Doing this we made complete strands of our shapes, that would hangevenly spaced around the ring.B. The larger hexagons were prepped for hanging individually by pre-poking holes in each end with hot wire, and cutting hang-wire to correct and consistent lengths forhanging.C. The support rings were prepped by being marked and drilled at evenly spaced intervals where each of the first row of hexagons would be attached.
Image Notes1. We adhered foam guides to our table to accurately space each hexagon.
Image Notes1. C9 clamp on lamp sockets could not be much easier to wire on.
Image Notes1. Inserting a hot wire through the foam to allow smooth insertion of the rigid wirewe later used to hang these hexagon frames.
Image Notes1. drilling holes for outer ring in which to insert the wire supports for the outerhexagons.
Step 4: Step 4: Major assembly . Now that all the pieces are ready its time to put it together. We drilled 8 holes in each of our pipe rings and attached equal lengths of cable toeach, that met in the center and attached to a locking ring. This way the entire structure could be suspended from a single center point, ideal for the chain hoist we wereusing. Once the rings were hanging we were able to start attaching shapes. The strands of smaller hexagons were attached by tying the lamp wire around the pipe at themarked interval and zip-tying it tight. The remainder of the lamp wire was run to the center for later wiring. Fishing line was then run through the eyelets in each row ofhexagons to ensure their outward facing. The outer hexagons were hung one by one by inserting pre-measured hang-wire through the prepped holes and bending theend to hold.
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Image Notes1. 1/6" support steel cable, one of eight. Run through two holes drilled through thepipe.
Image Notes1. all the steel cables meet and connect to this quick link, which are hung fromthe chain hoist hook.
Image Notes1. tied once and zip tied.
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Image Notes1. Wearing gloves, adding the lamp and peeling off the protective film from thepolished aluminum hexagons.
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Image Notes1. The space between the inner and outer hoop was fairly consistent as well asboth hoops hanging level, thanks to proper measuring and consistent distributionof weight.
Step 5: Step 5: Electrical components . Three DMX dimmer packs were mounted to plywood and wired together to a single plug and hung from a single point.3 Chauvet RGB LED lights were wired to a space hexagon and covered with a plastic bucket trimmed in height to create the center light fixture. The LED light was hungdirectly from the DMX dimmer pack assembly, and then to the hook on the 1/2 ton chain hoist located over the bar this was being installed at. Each wire from the innerring was trimmed, had a plug added, and was connected to one of 12 consecutive channels on the dimmer packs. As the fixture is raised, light bulbs are inserted into thesockets, and the protective film is removed from the polished aluminum. Once the whole structure is complete and raised to it's final height, programming may begin. Withthe 12 channels offered by C9 lamps and all the many colors and quantity of fixtures of the LED lamp, a great many active/ambient looks can be achieved.
Image Notes1. LADDER SAFETY!2. 1/2 ton chain hoist. Way over what we needed, but it was what we hadavailable.
Image Notes1. 3, 4 channel DMX dimmer packs.
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Image Notes1. dimmer packs assembly2. LED fixture assembly.
Image Notes1. 3 Chauvet Slim par LED fixtures with added diffusion filter.2. extra hexagon used for mounting the LED fixtures.
Image Notes1. Top view of LED light assembly. Power and DMX cable running up the center tothe dimmer pack assembly.
Image Notes1. Plastic storage tub with the top cut off.
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Image Notes1. the lights can change colors as well as pulsating in a chasing pattern like arotating beacon light.
Image Notes1. Plastic tub placed up and over the LED fixtures.
Image Notes1. The mess of wires are zip tied to clean things up a bit. Very little electricity isbeing used for the entire structure in spite of the amount of electrical components.
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Image Notes1. The finished structure!
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Comments
3 comments Add Comment
Penolopy Bulnick says: Feb 2, 2012. 12:10 PM REPLYThat is really awesome! Thanks for sharing how you did it :)
davidandora says: Feb 2, 2012. 1:27 PM REPLYYou're welcome Penolopy! Thank you!
Kiteman says: Feb 2, 2012. 1:15 PM REPLYI told you it would be better as a step-by-step!
;-)
