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getting to know n balearics

When I ask Martin Xamena how hishotel guests have changed over thelast half century, he raises his eye-brows. “When I stay at a hotel I like tobe served, I like a pleasant ambienceand I like to meet civilised fellow

guests,” he says. “That’s what I try to achieve, but tofind civilised people these days isn’t easy. Just look athow even famous people behave.”Civilised people? In Majorca? The Spanish island,

largest of the Balearics group, is synonymous with massmarket package holidays. Like neighbouring Ibiza, it’salso very popular with young clubbers, but Martin’s BonSol hotel in Illetas, Majorca, offers a rather differentexperience. The family home became a guest house in1953 and has since been transformed withfacilities including a major spa. The BonSol is a haven of tranquillity, excellentfood and, yes, civilisation. No wondersome guests have been comingevery year for 50 years, and adozen of the waiting staff havebeen there since the 1980s.Mass market, high-rise resorts

such as Magalluf and Palma Novain Majorca, and San Antonio in Ibiza,are still going strong, and both islandssuffer unfairly from the image theseresorts project. The second largest Balearic

island, Menorca, has largely avoided the mass marketdespite having some large hotels, and is a favourite offamilies. As for tiny Formentera, the fourth Balearicisland, mass tourism has virtually passed it by.The islands have been favourite holiday destinations

since long before the package holiday age. Polishcomposer Frederic Chopin was a notable visitor toMajorca in 1838 and King Juan Carlos of Spain consid-ers Majorca attractive enough for his summer holidayretreat. But with cheap flights from all over Britaintaking just two hours and extensive development alongthe coast, you have to pick your spot to enjoy the tran-quillity of the Balearics. This summer could beespecially busy, with the pound gaining strength againstthe euro and uncertainty hanging over other popular

holiday spots.

family-friendlyDespite being the most developedisland, Majorca has been able towithstand the annual influx of overaround two million tourists simplybecause of its size – over 2,500square kilometres (1,000 squaremiles). Mass market development isconcentrated around the Bay of Palma

in the south, with the north and eastcoasts having many smaller and more

family-friendly resorts, such as Alcudia, Puerto


Spain’s Balearic Islands have been the favourite stamping groundof tourists since composer Frederic Chopin. But, as long-timeconvert Dave Richardson points out, there is far more to thispopular archipelago than high-rise resorts, bustling beaches andfoam-party nightclubs

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n Font de SaCala, Majorca

n Binibeca, Menorca

n Market shoppingin Formentera

Sunshine

Pollensa and Cala d’Or. The west coast is little-devel-oped, courtesy of the Sierra Tramuntana mountains, andpicturesque coastal towns such as Banyalbufar and Deiaperch on the cliffs. The north-west coast is flatter; hereyou’ll find perhaps the prettiest coastal resort, and theone with most “local” character, Puerto Soller. Away from the mountains in the west, inland Majorca

is less interesting, being mainly a plain, but with high-lights including Manacor where Majorca’s famouscultivated pearls are produced. A “must” away from theresorts is the city of Palma, a city break in its own right

especially off-season, when it is cooler and considerablyless crowded.Palma is a bustling seaside city with the long Paseo

Maritimo boulevard running beside the sea, past amarina brimming with luxurious yachts and a busycruise terminal. The nearest beaches are a few milesaway either on the west side, where Palma Nova andMagalluf are favoured by the British; or on the east side,near the airport, where C’an Pastilla and Arenal aredistant outposts of Berlin and Frankfurt. But it’s the oldcity of Palma which is most worthy of attention, and thatis just behind the huge Gothic cathedral which towersover the eastern end of the Paseo Maritimo.The cathedral was built between the 14th and 16th

centuries, but the rose windows were created by theCatalan architect Gaudi, best known for his lavishmodernist architecture in Barcelona. The maze of narrowstreets behind the cathedral is a delight to wander in, andstill home to thousands of people as well as bars, restau-rants, boutiques and historical attractions. Don’t miss theArab Baths, Convent of St Francis and art museum,housed in an ancient building once used by merchants.Almudaina Palace, by the cathedral, was the seat ofMoorish and Catholic kings.

british linksPalma can easily be reached for a day trip from mostMajorcan resorts, but consider staying longer if you’reinto history, culture, shopping, gastronomy andnightlife. It has a lovely old Plaza Major or main square,

8 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Summer 2012


l See Palma’s cathedral and old town.l Take a taxi to admire the view from Bellver Castle in Palma, then

walk down.l Take the antiquated electric train from Palma to Soller, then ride

a tram to Puerto Soller through the orange groves.l Children will enjoy Palma Aquarium, near the airport.l The Caves of Drach, on Majorca’s east coast, are highly impressive.

l Discover the prehistoric stone tombs of Menorca.l Stroll the character-filled streets of Ciudadela, Menorca's

former capital.l Spend a day in Ibiza Town’s old quarter, including lunch at a top

restaurant such as El Olivo.l See the island’s wetlands, Ses Salines.l Walk or cycle around Formentera.

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“You have topick yourspot to enjoythetranquillityof theBalearics”

n Palma's toweringGothic cathedral

n The streets of Palma

rewarding. Mahon, on the east coast, is less interesting,although it’s good for shopping and has a colourful port.Ciudadela, on the west coast, has more of a historic feelas befits the island’s former capital. In the old town, youcan enjoy 17th and 18th century palaces and churches,while the harbour is a delight and close to most of thenightlife. Some of Menorca’s finest and least-developedbeaches are nearby, including Son Saura and Macarella,but access can be difficult.Inland Menorca is mainly farmland with plenty of

cattle, the highest point reaching only 350 metres(1,150ft).If you are keen on ancient history, the interior is

worth exploring in depth as it has over 1,000 megalithicmonuments, mainly ancient T-shaped tombs calledtaulas. There are also some signs of Roman settlement.If Menorca’s image is one of peace and relaxation,

the opposite could be said of Ibiza, due to its long-estab-lished clubbing scene. Huge pleasure palaces of insistentbeat (and the infamous foam parties), such as Privilegeand Pacha, can be found in the resort of San Antonio,capital Ibiza Town, and along the road in between. San

Antonio is a huge clubbing resort and you’re ill-advisedto go there if you’re over 30 – or even over 25.Fortunately, however, Ibiza has never attracted the worstand cheapest end of the clubbing market as in Greeceand Cyprus. The reason is simple – it’s expensive.But the foam party image has put off the older visitor,

despite the existence of much quieter resorts appealingto couples and families, such as Santa Eulalia, Es Canaand Playa d’en Bossa, which has the island’s longestbeach. Some older people return to Ibiza yearafter year and see nothing of its lurid image,but as the island is fairly small – about570 sq km (220 square miles) – it’s impor-tant to choose your resort carefully.

isolated beachesIbiza is worth exploring, with a largePhoenician archaeological site at Puig desMolins and the wetlands of Ses Salines, butmost of the sightseeing is in Ibiza Town. Byday – before the nightlife cranks up – it’s a charm-ing place, with a fortified old town surrounded by

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with historic buildings on every side and cafes andshops dotted around, although anythingbought here comes at a premium. Olivermarket is well worth a browse to stock upon typical Majorcan snacks or simply

admire the displays of fruit,vegetables and fish, while themain areas for fashion shop-ping are Paseo de Born andAvenida Jaime III. The cityhas lots of bars and restau-rants and plenty of clubs too,

mainly in the small streets nearPaseo Maritimo.You might think the many large resort

hotels, and big city hotels in Palma, arethe only accommodation choices. But thatis not so, as there are many historic,boutique and character hotels scatteredaround the island plus a few in Palma oldtown, including the Dalt Murada, closer tothe cathedral. Over 20 of these belong to

the Reis de Mallorca marketing group. Menorca is the least visited of the three main Balearic

islands by British visitors, yet we have a long historyhere. Britain ruled Menorca three times between 1708and 1802, with periods of French and Spanish rule inbetween. An unlikely link between Menorca and a food-stuff used throughout the Western world is mayonnaise,named after the main town of Mahon by the French,after they wrested control of it from Britain in 1756.The island has some excellent sandy beaches that

have seen plenty of development, but nothing on thescale of the Bay of Palma in Majorca. Resorts are mainlyon the south coast and include Santo Tomas, Son Bou,Cala Blanca and Cala Galdana, plus Arenal d’en Castellon the north coast. Many of the beaches are on small,fairly secluded bays, popular with families. There areplenty of villas here, too, for large families or groups offriends.

palaces and churchesMenorca is essentially a place to chill out, but a trip toMahon or the other main town, Ciudadela, may be



eating anddrinkingThis being Spain, it’s nosurprise that eating out is highon the list of priorities, withexcellent but pricey seafoodthroughout the islands. If youchoose self-catering, don’t beafraid to cook it yourself,buying from Oliver or SantaCatalina markets in Palma, orthe main markets in IbizaTown, Mahon and Ciudadela.Majorca has really developed

its foodie reputation, with manyrenowned restaurants not onlyin Palma, but throughout theisland. Other specialitiesinclude roast suckling pig,sobrasada (sausage flavouredwith paprika) and ensaimada, awheel-shaped sweet pastrywhich many visitors take homein cardboard boxes. Food trails in Majorca

introduce you to local produceincluding olive oil and cheese.Also look out for fish, meat

and vegetable stews in Ibiza,and specialities of Menorcaincluding partridge and cheese.Majorca has a developing wineindustry, while Menorca isfamous for gin.

walking in the balearicsStrolling along a coastal track near Banyalbufar, on the west coast of Majorca, was aheavenly experience even as early in the season as March. The sun shone strongly,the calm sea glistened and the pine woods were fragrant, yet I was less than anhour away from the big resorts near Palma. Winding up an easy two-hour walk in a village tapas bar, I took my time before

taking a different route back to the welcoming Hotel Mar I Vent, run by the samefamily for generations.Much stiffer walks are on offer in Majorca’s mountains, with the book Walk and

Eat in Mallorca (www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk) offering 10 itineraries of varyinglevels from Palma to Soller. All the other islands have walking tracks too, withguided walks operating in Ibiza, where the emphasis is mainly on coastal routes.

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n No high-rise blocks atMajorca's Cala Truent

n Copia de San-LuisBenibequer, , Menorca n Terrace bar in

the Port of Ibiza

n Ibiza Town

n Local fare, Majorca

n Formenteraculture

Medieval walls dating from Phoenician times but rebuiltin the 16th century. There are many character restaurantshere, but it can also be very crowded in peak season. And what of Formentera, smallest of the Balearic

islands? It can only be reached by boat from Ibiza, andhas similar wetlands. Isolated beaches and a handful ofvillages dot the island, the main one being the port of LaSavina. It is one of the best “away from it all” experi-ences in Spain despite having a few large hotels, and isgood for walking and cycling. The arty Spanish film,Sex and Lucia, is set here, with Formentera portrayed ashaving magical qualities.I must find out why one day, as my only visit so far

was a day trip from Ibiza. But it will take a lot to wrenchme away from my very “civilised” special places inMajorca, such as the sun terrace at the Bon Sol, walkingalong the west coast, or Palma’s old town. When you consider how many “new” holiday desti-

nations have sprung up over the last 20 years but howmany people still regard these islands as their favourites,the Balearics really are the great holiday survivors.



balearics facts

Dave Richardson discovered Majorca as a young man in the1970s, and first came to Ibiza before the clubbing crazestarted. He moved on to sedate Menorca and, being youngat heart, he now regularly re-visits Majorca as it appeals toall tastes.

when to goThe tourist season in Menorca, Ibiza andFormentera is strictly from May toOctober, with only Majorca being openyear-round. Spring and autumn are idealtimes to visit as high summer can bevery hot, with cool temperatures andrain in winter, and occasional snow inMajorca’s mountains. Palma hotels are openyear-round but many Majorcan resort hotelsclose in winter.

getting thereYou can fly to Majorca from all major airports in Britain, with Ibiza alsohaving good coverage and Menorca less so. Main airlines include easyJet(www.easyjet.com), Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), Monarch(www.monarch.co.uk), Thomson (www.thomson.co.uk), ThomasCook (www.thomascook.com) and Jet2 (www.jet2.com).

getting aroundCar hire and buses are the way to go, with Majorca having somemotorways and rail routes. Inter-island ferries are available.

tour operatorsThese include Thomson, Thomas Cook and Cosmos(www.cosmos.co.uk). Classic Collection (www.classic-collection.co.uk) also offers many boutique hotels. MallorcaFarmhouses (www.mallorca.com) offers what it says on the tin.

accommodationThe Bon Sol in Illetas, Dalt Murada inPalma and Mar I Sol in Banyalbufar allbelong to the Reis de Mallorcamarketing group(www.reisdemallorca.com). Theislands have many other accommodation

options, from self-catering apartments upto five-star hotels.

tourist informationSpanish Tourist Office: www.spain.info/en; 020 7317 2011

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n Formentera's harbour

n Soller tram,Majorca

n Hotel complex,Formentera

n Dalt Vila Cathedral, Ibiza

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