gardplan_privacygarden

7/28/2019 gardplan_privacygarden

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W W W . B H G . C O M / G A R D E N P L A N S P R I V A C Y G A R D E N 1

TRANSFORM YOUR YARD INTO A SECLUDED HAVEN.

Planting beds around the perimeter of a yard encloses, it just enough to create afeeling of seclusion and privacy. The view is screened but not blocked entirely. A smallmaple tree, chokeberry bushes, and two low-growing evergreens do the screeninghere, while perennials, annuals, and bulbs provide seasonal color. For even more color,add daylilies, veronica, salvia, dwarf irises, and asters. This garden was designed as aflowering screen between a front lawn and the street, but it could also be placed alongthe side of a property. Leave one or two mower widths of lawn between the gardenand the sidewalk or curb. For a longer privacy screen, repeat the garden in 16sections. Plant in full sun.

GARDEN PLANS

C o p y r i g h t M e r e d i t h C o r p o r a t i o n

Privacy Garden


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P L A N T L I S T

Privacy Garden

A Dwarf Amur Maple (Acer ginnala Compacta) (1)Zones 3-8. Dense, compact ornamental tree. Scarlet fall color. 8 tall.

A L T E R N AT I V E P L A N T S

Purple Smokebush (Cotinus coggygria Nordine)Zones 4-8. Purple-leafed shrub. Feathery flowers, yellow fall color.

8-10 tall.Arrowwood Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)Zones 3-8. Upright shrub. White flowers in June, black fruit. 10-12 tall.

B Blue Nest Spruce (Picea mariana Nana) (1)Zones 3-9. Dwarf evergreen shrub. Globe shape, bluish needles.2-3 tall.


Globe Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis Woodward)Zones 4-9. Rich green evergreen shrub. Rounded shape. 3 tall.

C Glossy Chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa elata) (2)Zones 3-8. White spring flowers, black fruit that hangs on into winter, redfall color, shiny leaves. 4-6 tall.


Darts Golden Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius DartsGold)Zones 2-8. Compact shrub with yellow foliage. 3-4 tall.Sun Runner Ground Cover Rose (Rosa Sun Runner)Zones 5-10. Ground cover rose available from Jackson & Perkins. Yellowflowers. 18" tall by 3 wide.

D Hughes Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis Hughes) (1)Zones 4-9. Low-growing evergreen. Blue-silver foliage. 1 tall.


Skandia Juniper (Juniperus sabina Skandia)

Zones 3-9. Low-growing evergreen. Bright green, feathery foliage.18" tall.

E Purple Rock Cress (Aubrieta deltoidea) (3)Zones 4-7. Gray-green foliage forms a mat, purple flowers in spring.6" tall.


Fringed Rock Cress (Arabis blepharophylla Spring Charm)Zones 4-7. Soft rose flowers in early spring. 6"-8" tall.

F Pasqueflower (Pulsatilla vulgaris Rubra) (3)Zones 3-8. Furry foliage, purple flowers in early spring, feathery seedheads. 10"-12" tall.


Sea Thrift (Armeria maritima Splendens)Zones 4-9. Red pom-pom flowers in late spring, grassy foliage. 10"-12"tall.

G Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea Bright Star) (1)Zones 3-9. Rose-red flowers with domed centers. 30" tall.


Sea Holly (Eryngium alpinum Blue Star)Zones 4-10. Deep blue flowers, prickly looking foliage. 24" tall.


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P L A N T L I S T C O N T I N U E D Privacy Garden

H Basket-of-Gold (Aurinia saxatilis) (2)Zones 3-8. Bright yellow flowers in spring, gray foliage. 8"-12" tall.


Gold Stonecrop (Sedum Gold Carpet)Zones 3-9. Yellow flowers, gold-tinted foliage. 4" tall.

I Spike Gayfeather (Liatris spicata Kobold) (2)Zones 3-9. Rose-lavender, bottlebrush flowers in summer. 24" tall.


Prairie Mallow (Sidalcea malviflora Party Girl)Zones 5-7. Shellpink flowers, resembles a small hollyhock. 24"-36" tall.

J Goldenrod (Solidago sphacelata Golden Fleece) (2)Zones 3-10. Sprays of bright yellow flowers, unique foliage. 18" tall.


Michaelmas Daisy (Aster novi-belgii Prof. Kippenburg)Zones 4-9. Lavender-blue flowers in early fall. 12" tall.

K Cranesbill (Geranium sanguineum striatum or G. s.Lancastriense) (2)Zones 3-8. Pink flowers with crimson veins, creeping habit. 6"-8" tall.


Pinks (Dianthus Zing Rose)Zones 4-8. Bright rose, fragrant flowers. 6" tall.

L Edging of Annual FlowersAll zones. Choose from sweet alyssum (white, 4"), dwarf ageratum (blue,8"), or nierembergia (violet or white, 6").

O P T I O N A L P L A N T S

Queen of Night Darwin Tulip (Tulipa Queen ofNight) (5)

Zones 3-8. Dark maroon, nearly black in color; blooms in late spring.22" tall.

Grape Hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum ) (12)Zones 4-8. Tiny blue flower spikes in mid-spring. 6" tall.

Salome Daffodil (Narcissus Salome) (6)Zones 3-7. Ivory flowers with salmon-pink cups in mid-spring. 16" tall.


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Before You Begin. Preparation is the key to creating a garden that willoffer a lifetime of pleasure. Before you head to the nursery or lift a spade,take the time to review all garden plan materials. Ask yourself the follow-ing questions:

Do I have a suitable location for this plan? The layout diagram showsthe dimensions for the plan as designed. In general, you can enlarge or

reduce the size of the garden by adding or eliminating plants, althoughthe character of the garden may change if you alter the size dramatical-ly.

Does my yard offer the right conditions? Check the plant list carefullyto see whether the plan will do best in full sun, partial shade, or fullshade. Also make sure that the plants are suited to your USDAGrowing Zone. (In many cases, the alternative plants list includes vari-eties that will grow in other zones.)

Does my soil need improvement? Most plants will survive in a varietyof soil conditions, but well-drained, moist (but not soaked) soil is gener-ally best. To test your soil, wet it thoroughly with a hose, wait 24 hours,then squeeze a clump in your hand. If the soil forms a ball that holdstogether, but breaks up easily when you poke it with your finger, yoursoil is ideal. If the soil won't hold its shape when squeezed, it is probablytoo sandy. If the clump doesn't break up easily, the soil may be too clay.In either case, you can improve your soil by mixing in organic matterlike compost or peat moss.

Is my soil's pH and fertility okay? Check at your local garden store fora soil test kit, or inquire about testing at a local county extension serviceoffice. Follow the recommendations that come with your test results ifyou need to correct the soil's pH (how acid or alkaline the soil is) orfertility.

Creating the Bed. To lay out your bed, use a garden hose to mark theedges. When you are satisfied with the layout, use striping paint (availableat many home centers) to mark the outline. (Or, sprinkle flour along thehose for a more temporary mark.). Using a sharp spade, dig along the

marked line to set the edge of your bed.

If the garden location is currently covered with lawn, you have a couple ofoptions. For smaller areas, you can strip the sod using a straight-edgedshovel. To make this easier, wet the area thoroughly, then use the shovel tocut the lawn into strips that are the width of the shovel and about threefeet long. (Expert tip: Sharpen the edge of the shovel frequently with afile.) Use the shovel to pry up and roll back the strips of sod. Once thesod is removed, you can loosen the underlying soil with a shovel or apower tiller.

For larger areas covered by lawn, consider using a heavy-duty gardentiller to grind the sod into the underlying soil. This has the twin benefits ofadding organic matter to the soil and eliminating the need to discard or

compost sod.

Regardless of how you are preparing your bed, be sure to use this oppor-tunity to mix in organic matter (such as compost, peat moss, or rottedmanure) and loosen the soil at least 6 inches deep, or even 8 to 12 inchesif you can. Don't mix in fertilizer unless your soil test shows a need; in gen-eral, excessive amounts of fertilizer will do more harm than good.

After your bed is prepared, water it thoroughly and wait a week. This willallow some weed seeds to germinate. Remove these seedlings or digthem back into the soil. If you choose to use chemicals to kill the weeds,follow the instructions to the letter, including the time to wait after applica-tion before planting.

Edging. Most beds are easier to maintain if they have an edging thatkeeps surrounding grass or vegetation from invading. Choose plastic,metal, stone, or brick -- whatever you prefer. If you have lawn around yourbed, consider also including a mowing strip, a 6- to 12-inch-wide swath ofmasonry or stone set even with the surrounding soil.

Planting. Now comes the fun part! If you have all of your plants on

hand, keep them in their pots and set them out on the planting bed. Thiswill give you a preview of how the bed will look and allow you to makeadjustments. Use the tags that come with the plants to ensure that thespacing is correct. Don't worry that the bed looks sparse; the youngplants need room to grow.

When you're satisfied with the arrangement, plant your garden fromlargest to smallest container (usually trees first, then shrubs, perennials,and finally annuals). Each plant type does best with a specific plantingmethod:

Trees. Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the pot or root ball anddeep enough so the top of the root ball or pot is slightly higher than thesurrounding soil. For potted trees, remove the tree from the pot, loosenthe soil slightly around the roots, then place the tree into the plantinghole. For balled-and-burlapped trees, loosen the burlap after the tree isin the hole, cutting away as much of the burlap as possible. When thetree is in place and straight, fill the hole one-third with soil, tamp firmlyto make good contact between roots and soil, then water. Repeat twicemore until the hole is filled. Make a shallow collar of soil around thehole to catch water and hold it near the root zone. Water the tree thor-oughly by letting a hose run slowly for 30 minutes.

Shrubs. Plant shrubs in a hole that's about twice the diameter of theroot ball. The top of the root ball should be slightly above the surround-ing soil level. Backfill with garden soil, tamping firmly to ensure a con-tact between soil and roots. Water immediately by slowly running ahose at the shrub's base for about 20 minutes.

Perennials and Annuals. Set these plants in soil at the same level theywere growing in the pot. Firm the soil around each plant with yourhands, then water thoroughly.

Mulching. As you place each plant, it's a good idea to add mulch toconserve moisture, cool the roots of plants, and protect the soil fromwashing away in the rain. Organic mulches like shredded bark will requireperiodic additions as the mulch decays. Mulches like crushed stone aremore permanent, but may not offer the character you prefer.

Aftercare. The first season of growth is the most critical for your gar-den. A good guideline is to water thoroughly every other day for the firsttwo weeks, then twice weekly for the remainder of the first season. Thefollowing year, you can let nature take its course, supplementing dry peri-

ods with deep watering.

You should also be diligent about weeding your bed during the first year.As the plants mature and fill in, there will be fewer opportunities for weedsto gain a foothold. A thick layer of mulch will also help keep weeds incheck.

Ongoing Maintenance. Most plants will thrive with only minimal care.Apply a general fertilizer according to package directions in the springafter growth has started. If you need to prune trees or shrubs to maintaintheir shape or size, do it in late winter before growth has started. Theexception to this general rule is spring-flowering shrubs like lilacs thatshould be pruned immediately after flowering.

W W W . B H G . C O M / G A R D E N P L A N S

I N S T A L L I N G Y O U R P R E - D E S I G N E D G A R D E N


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