G Year XXI No. 1 - February 2014 € 2 RAPEVINE · Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. €4 (reduced €2). ... and the relief of the Virgin by Raffaello da Montelupo. Many artists

GRAPEVINE€ 2Year XXI No. 1 - February 2014

WHAT’S ON IN & AROUNDWHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

The ORIGINAL magazine of Tuscan culture

PISA LUCCA

Piazza dei Miracoli: M.U.S.T. (Memoria Urbana Società e Territorio), Via Guinigi 29. Leaning Tower, March to October 9am to 7pm, November to history, archaeology, photography. Tues-Sun 10am to 6pm. 0583 442916. February 9.30am to 5pm. April to September 8.30am to 8.30pm. Night Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. 0583 visits from 14 June to 15 September, 8.30pm to 11pm. €15. Take the 571712, www.luccamuseum.com shuttle bus A from Central Station. 050 910789. Domus Romana Lucca, Via Cesare Battisti 15. Archaeological site Cathedral, Autumn, spring and summer 8am to 8pm. €2. Winter 10am 0583 050060, www.domusromanalucca.it to 12.45 pm, 3pm to 4.45 pm weekdays, 3pm to 4.45pm Sundays and Villa Guinigi, Via Quarquonia. €4 (free under 18 and over 65). Tuesday holidays. 050 560547. to Saturday 8.30am to 7.30p Sunday 8.30am to 1pm. 0583 496033.Baptistry, The biggest in Italy, built in 1153 by Diotisalvi with works Torre Guinigi, Via Sant'Andrea 45. €3.50. June to September 9am to by Nicola Pisano. March to October 9am to 6.30pm. €5 (reduced €2). midnight. 0583 3166846. Winter 10am to 4.30pm. 050 560547. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. €4 (reduced €2). Tuesdays to Monumental cemetery, Etruscan, Latin, Medieval. March to October Saturdays 8.30am to 7.30pm. 0583 583461, 0583 55570. 9am to 6.30pm. Winter 10am to 4.30pm. €5 (reduced €2). Puccini's Birthplace, Corte San Lorenzo 9. €7 (reduced €5, free under

10). April to October 10am to 6pm. Closed Tuesdays. 0583 584028. Botanical Garden, Via Luca Ghini 5. Dating from Cosimo de’ Medici Comics, Piazza San Romano 4. €4 (reduced €3). Tuesdays to Sundays (1544), attached to the University of Pisa. 050 2211316. 10am to 6pm. 0583 56326. Jewish Cemetery, Via Palestro, near Piazza dei Miracoli, dating to Cathedral and Cathedral Museum, Piazza Antelminelli. €4 (reduced 1648, one of the oldest Hebrew cemeteries in Europe. €2.50). March 8 to November 2, 10am to 6pm. Winter, 10am to 2pm. Piazza dei Cavalieri, Re-designed by Giorgio Vasari in the 16th Saturdays and Sundays 10am to 5pm. 0583 490530. century according to the wishes of Cosimo de’ Medici, seat of the Palazzo Pfanner, Via degli Asili 33. Gardens and medical instruments Knights of St. Stephen and the Scuola Normale. One of the towers of Dr. Pfanner. 0583 954029. contains the jail of Count Ugolino, as recalled by Dante in the Inferno. Palazzo Ducale, Cortile Carrara. Provincial offices, historic rooms Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. Free admission. Tuesdays to and Cresci Foundation for Italian Emigration. 0583 417363. Fridays 10am to 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 8pm. 050 500197. Museum of the Liberation (1940-1943), Via Sant'Andrea 43. Open Museo San Matteo in Soarta, Lungarno Mediceo. €8 (students 18 to Wednesdays and Saturdays 3 to 6pm and third Sunday each month. 25 €4). 050 541865. Fondazione Ragghianti, Via San Micheletto 3. Art library, galleries, Wall by American artist Keith Haring (1958-1990) entitled conference rooms, ancient cloister with gardens. 0583 467205Tuttomondo, at the Sant'Antonio Convent near Piazza Vittorio Botanical Garden, Via del Giardino Botanico 14. Open week days Emanuele II. A metaphor for peace and harmony in the world. 9.30am to 12.30am, from July to 16 Sept. 10am to 7pm. 0583 442160.

MUSEUMS AND MONUMENTS (see What’s On pages for more information)

2 - February 2014 GRAPEVINE

WHERE CAN I FIND (newsstands/edicole)? GRAPEVINE

Pisa Airport Outside Lucca

Edicola Stile ToscanoNorth

· San Marco, San Marco PressPisa TownSegromigno, Lazzereschi (Villa Torrigiani)· Crileo, Corso Italia (little kiosk near the

river)South

· Corso Italia (corner Via del Carmine)

· Piazza dei Cavalieri, (Scuola Normale)

· Galati and Eros, Borgo Stretto

· Costanzi, Borgo Stretto 115 · San Concordio, Edicolè· Fatima, Via Santa Maria · San Lorenzo, La Perla (Via per Pisa)

In Lucca· Edicola 20Z, Via Oberdan · San Leonardo in Treponzio, · Santori, Via Fillungo 225 Il Pennarello (Via di Tiglio)· Martini, Via Fillungo 138Near the Coast

East· Viareggio, Richmond's, Via XXIV Maggio · Lorenzini, Via Fillungo 16· Pietrasanta, Giuntini (Piazza Principale) · Betti, Via Veneto 43

· Montecarlo, Edicola Denis (Via Roma)· Tonfano, Edicola Tonacchera, · Corsi, Piazza Napoleone 5· Pescia, Alma, Piazza principalepedestrian street · Edicola Souvenir, Via S. Paolino 54· Altopascio, Edicola Regoli, Via Gavignana· Camaiore, Barsottelli, Via di Mezzo · La Medica, Via Vittorio Veneto 11

· Mare 2000,· De Lillo, Via V. Emanuele 40

Viale della Repubblica, 18· Pantera-Brancoli, Via Beccheria 9

· Vitale, Via Calderia

· Gallacci, Piazza dei CocomeriAND at (where you

· Cerboncini, Via Santa Croce 45can also order an on-line

· San Gervasio, Via Santa Croce 109 or postal subscription)· Orrizonti di Carta, Via Elisa 49 0583 909012· Quintavalli, Piazza San Francesco

· Borgo a Mozzano, Centro Ufficio

· (shopping center, near Penny Market)

· Ponte a Serraglio, Chiosco del Ponte

· Bagni di Lucca, Edicola Punto Sma·

· Barga Sotto, Poli

· Barga Vecchia, Nardini

· Ponte all'Ania, Bertoncini · Train Station Edicola Ale’· Coselli, Franchi Miria· Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Magnani, · Guamo, SottopoggioVia Farini

· Arancio, Baldassari, Via Pesciatina

Forte dei Marmi, Lungomare,West

· Borgo Giannotti, Giannecchini· Sant'Alessio, Ninnolandia

In the Mountains

· Monsagrati, La Coccinella (Strada per www.luccagrapevine.com Camaiore)

· La Cappella, Viani (Strada per Camaiore)

· Ponte a Moriano, Orlandi (Piazza

Principale) [email protected]

Contents

Address for correspondenceand advertisingGrapevineVia Francesconi 2S. Ginese di Compito55012 Lucca

Telephone 0583 909012Fax 0583 908849Mobile 340 2880562Skype susan.jarman.rosalind

[email protected]

Printed by

Registrazione Tribunale di Luccano. 629 del 13 dicembre 1994Iscrizione CCIAA Lucca no. 199169

Myck Press srlCalcinaia (PI) tel. 0587 422802

Direttore ResponsabileGiuseppe Brandani

FounderSusan Jarman

EditorsNorma Jean BishopSilvano Simi

ContributorsHelen AskhamNorma Jean BishopChiara CalabreseNancy EdwardsSonia ErcoliniGiovanni FerroniKevan HalsonGareth HorsfallSusan JarmanDebra KolkkaSimone LippiJulia Alexandra Mee Hannah MossDaniel NewFrancis Pettitt

CoverTabernacle in a Brancoli village

The listings published in Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information before setting off.Signed articles do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editors or of the Direttore Responsabile.

GRAPEVINE February 2014 - 3

2014February

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Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

San Michele in Foro, Lucca


Raymond Victor Mee (1945-2006)Lucca no. 1, oil on canvas, 2003

(Depicting the Church of San Michele in Foro)

Raymond Victor Mee (1945-2006)Market at Night, Piazza di San Michele

Oil on canvas, 120 x 96 cm, 1999

he history of the church of San long building process resulted in a Michele in Foro has an abun- basilica which displayed the influ-dance of tales and anecdotes. ences of various architectural styles, T Situated in the centre of the his- including the Gothic style and that of

toric walled city of Lucca, known as the Pisan Romantic architecture.city of a hundred churches, this magnificent The campanile (bell tower) had orig-church is often confused with the Duomo inally stood higher before the upper San Martino due to its central location. storey was demolished in 1364 by

The first documentation of a church on Giovanni dell'Agnello (the Doge of this site was in 795, and as its name sug- Pisa). According to legend, this was gests, it was built on an ancient Roman because the bells could be heard as far forum. The construction of the present away as Pisa, which infuriated the church began in 1070, under the direction Pisans.of Pope Alessandro II, and was not com- The façade consists of four loggias pleted until the fourteenth century. This crowned with the imposing statue of

the archangel Michele, who is flanked on either side by an angel. The colossal sculpture measures four metres in height with bronze wings and a bronze lance to destroy the dragon. Legend has it that the The later paintings of my father Lucchese desired an enormous dia- Raymond Victor Mee were deeply mond (or an emerald) to be placed on inspired by Tuscan art and architecture. I the angel's finger, and several people have many childhood memories of claim to have witnessed an intense accompanying him as he set up his easel to green ray of light in the Piazza in the eve- draw and paint Lucca and the surrounding nings, which they believe to be the area (including this church), as he also did reflection of the diamond. in our beloved Benabbio, where he earned

The magnificent church is renowned the title Giotto. for its beautiful architecture, and also With its rich history, splendid architec-boasts art work by great Renaissance art- ture and art treasures, the church of San ists, including the Madonna and Child Michele in Foro is well worth a visit. by Luca della Robbia, La Pala Magnini, with Saints Girolamo, Sebastiano, – by Julia Alexandra MeeRocca and Elena by Filippino Lippi, and the relief of the Virgin by Raffaello da Montelupo.

Many artists have been inspired by San Michele in Foro, and among those who have opened their sketchbooks and painted the façade is John Ruskin.

Church of San Michele in Foro, Piazza San Michele, 55100 - LuccaOpening hours: Summer: 9 am to noon, 3 pm to 6 pm Winter: 9 am to noon, 3 pm to 5 pm

Piazza San Frediano 3 - LuccaTel/fax 0583 467375

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/

Viareggio’®s Carnival

n the weeks leading up to Lent, which is a time of renunciation, Carnival allows people license to play. Even though Lent is religious and Carnival seems to spring from I less Christian impulses, both reflect social needs. What

would renunciation be if not in reaction to excess? Although there is no single style of carnival in the world, for children the basic magic is in dressing up and being someone else, parading or dancing down the street or in the square, throwing confetti at strangers, even if only on Sunday afternoons.

Sometimes adults, especially, go further in celebrating folly, masquerading, trans-dressing, satirizing. D. H. Lawrence beau-tifully described a Sicilian carnival in his travelogue Sea and Sardinia (published in 1921):

Carnival is beginning. A man dressed as a peasant woman in native costume is clambering with his great wide skirts and wide strides on to the box, and, flourishing his ribboned whip, is address-ing a little crowd of listeners. He opens his mouth wide and goes on with a long yelling harangue of taking a drive with his mother – another man in old-woman's gaudy finery and wig who sits already bobbing on the box. The would-be daughter flourishes, yells, and prances up there on the box of the carriage. The crowd listens atten-tively and mildly smiles. It all seems real to them. The q-b (Law-rence's wife) hovers in the distance, half-fascinated, and watches. With a great flourish of whip and legs – showing his frilled drawers –

Obama, François Hollande (especially now), and even Dante are the masker pulls round to drive along the boulevard by the sea – the never far behind. only place where one can drive....

For simple fun the Lungomare is the place to be, especially on Little bunches of maskers, and single maskers danced and Carnival Sundays: 16 and 23 February, 2 and 9 March, and on strutted along in a thick flow under the trees. If you are a mask you Tuesday 4 March (Martedì Grasso). People crowd into the street don't walk like a human being: you dance and prance along with ice creams and drinks and cameras in hand, just waiting for the extraordinarily like the life-size marionettes (of Palermo tradi-fun, especially if the weather decides to cooperate and the skies are tion), conducted by wires from above. That is how you go: with gloriously blue. A little rain is okay, but if downpours are predicted the odd jauntiness as if lifted and propelled by wires from the the parade may be cancelled or re-scheduled. shoulders. In front of me went a charming coloured harlequin, all

On Saturday evenings preceding the parades, theme parties called in diamond-shaped colours, and beautiful as a piece of china. He Veglioni are held. Costumes are de rigour and reservations are tripped with the light, fantastic trip, quite alone in the thick required (tel. 054 58071 or email [email protected]) crowd, and quite blithe. Came two little children hand in hand in The first Veglione, dedicated to 1970's disco music, is scheduled for brilliant scarlet and white costumes, sauntering calmly. They did 15 February at Caffè Liberty (Lungomare). The second, a big not do the mask trip. After a while a sky-blue girl with a high hat Masked Ball with "burlesque and seduction" promised, is planned and full skirts, very short, that went flip-flip-flip, as a ballet for 22 February at the Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte. The third, dancer's, whilst she strutted; after her a Spanish grandee caper-on 1 March at the Principe di Piemonte Centro Congressi, is dedi-ing like a monkey. They threaded among the slow stream of the cated to the world of cinema. And the fourth, at Caffè Liberty on 8 crowd. Appeared Dante and Beatrice, in Paradise apparently, all March, has as its theme the fascination of blondes (come all you in white sheet-robes, and with silver wreaths on their heads, arm Marilyn Monroes and Brigitte Bardots!).in arm, and prancing very slowly and majestically, yet with the

To see how the floats are made, a visit to La Cittadella del long lilt as if hitched along by wires from above. They were very Carnevale is in order at any time of the year. La Cittadella was good: all the well-known vision come to life, Dante incorporate, built in 2001 so that the all float designers would have a spacious, and white as a shroud, with his tow-haired, silver-crowned, safe place to work. It also houses the Carnival Museum, the immortal Beatrice on his arm, strutting the dark avenues. He had Carnevalotto Contemporary Art Museum, and workshop spaces the nose and cheek-bones and banded cheek, and the stupid where children and others learn how to create, using carta pesta wooden look, and offered a modern criticism on the Inferno. (papier-mâché).

Italy's extremes in formal carnival celebrations can be seen today in Venice, with its masked balls and elegant baroque style, and in Viareggio, where political satire reigns with gravity-defying floats parading down the Lungomare on weekends. Everywhere, neighborhoods compete for the loudest and rowdi-est all-night parties. Burlamasco and Ondina, the harlequin and the spirit of the waves, personify Viareggio's seacoast carnival. Taking the brunt of satire are Berlusconi and the Pope (any Pope), always popular. This year we can expect to see Matteo Renzi lam-basted, and certainly Grillo, that talking puppet of Casaleggio, whose web democracy is fading a bit in popularity. Barack

Museum Hours: October to April: Thursdays to Sundays 4 pm to 7 pm and on the days of the Carnival Processions (16 & 23 February, 4 & 9 March) 9.30 am to 11.30 am. May to September: Thursdays to Saturdays 5 pm to 8 pm.For information call 0584 53048 or 0584 580730 (Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays from 10 am to noon).www.viareggioilcarnevale.com

from www.cartapesta.net


For the third consecutive year, Grapevine Magazine is presenting its Young Writers Award.

This year's winner is Daniel New, age 15, of Buckinghamshire, UK.

t was that time of year again. The new school year had dawned. It was mixed emotions. Some were dread-I ing the next year ahead but never-

theless, there was a certain buzz around the school, a buzz of excitement, a buzz that could only come from seeing your friends for the first time in six weeks.

Inevitably, we were asked to discuss our how people got on, laughing, drinking holidays with the class, where we went, cups of coffee at family-run bars and what we did and so on. This year, however, cafes, eating masterclass ice creams was different for me. The summer had with friends. Everywhere I went there brought new experiences. Unforgettable was a great atmosphere.experiences. One night I took a walk up to Casoli,

I was very lucky to spend just over a week not far from Bagni di Lucca. This little in Italy. An avid photographer, I was hugely village up in the mountains is a great looking forward to visiting such a beautiful example of how the little towns and vil-country. And it didn't disappoint. This coun- lages that aren't in the hub of the tourist try really touched my heart. Wherever I cities can be so awe-inspiring. When I went, the people were always friendly, arrived teens were playing football always helpful, always happy. You really against a wall, playing sport instead of can feel a strong sense of community, a going out and drinking. This unfortu-sense of community that made my heart nately is very different to what I was glow with delight. It was amazing to see used to in London! But most of all,

they were happy. The land-scape from Casoli was unforgettable. As I watched the sun set against the back-drop of the mountains, the beauty of Italy really got to me. I was building up inside with jealousy, especially as these sorts of landscapes are Daniel came to Lucca on vacation last hard to find living in an urban summer and discovered the beauties of environment. Italy for the first time. Daniel was able to

A trip to Lucca is a must. With express the wonders of what he saw, both such an amazing culture and the architectural marvels of cities such as feel, this historic town is was Pisa and Siena and the quieter beauty of the my favourite location for a day hills, for example at Casoli, near Bagni di trip. The outstanding architec- Lucca, where he stayed with his family. ture of Tuscany is shown at its Daniel attends Challoners Grammar finest here. Shopping is a must School in London, where he excels in math-too, with so many cafes, restau- ematics and aims at studying accountacy rants, bakeries, butchers, wine or business management. He speaks both shops, and shops selling qual- English and Hungarian and studies ity local produce. German at school. He enjoys perusing pho-

I can only admit that this is a tography books, playing rugby and spend-country which has to be seen to ing time with his dog, Patch. be believed. I loved every sec- The purpose of the Young Writers Award, ond of my time here. It really is with the sponsorship of the Associazione an incredible place and I will be Culturale Grapevine, is to attract young peo-exploring Tuscany again soon, ple to the pleasures of journalism and to rec-will you? ognize their talent.

ONE WEEKOF WONDER


ong ago in 1964, two Americans in Lucca had a great idea. What if Lucca were to discover and per-L form the music of its very own com-

posers: Puccini Sr. and Puccini Jr., Boccherini, Luporini, Catalani? And so the Associazione Musicale Lucchese (AML) was founded, and has been growing steadily ever since, helping Lucca's young musicians to per-form and perfect their talent, bringing music to children of all ages, offering conferences and films to enrich our understanding.

Last month the AML presented the plaque given to them by the President of the Italian Republic honoring this 50-year achievement, and Maestro Lucca's schoolchildren will not be neglected. The Musica Herbert Handt was applauded by the members of the association. Ragazzi program, planned and curated by Carla Nolledi, contains Former president Marcello Pardini introduced the current presi- many events between January to May. One very special date is dent, Simone Soldati, who described the intriguing 2014 pro- coming up soon: on 4, 6 and 15 February the children will be able gram. One event of special note: on 29 March at 5 pm, the associ- to see Cimarosa's Il matrimonio segreto in dress rehearsal at the ation's first president Carol Mac Andrew will be recognized post- Teatro del Giglio. On 15 February, Luigi Boccherini's birthday humously during an awards ceremony at the Istituto Musicale will be celebrated with a concert especially for children, at the Boccherini, with the scholarship winners financed by the AML San Micheletto Auditorium, part of the project entitled Io e Luigi performing in a concert in her honor. veri amici (Luigi and I, true friends). An important film scheduled

The season program – entitled Suoni, tra identità e for April is Slum Symphony – Allegro Crescendo by Cristiano metamorfosi – is so full that we must refer Grapevine readers to Barbarossa (2010), regarding Venezuela's innovation approach our What's On pages each month, and to the Association's to musical education for disadvantaged children. webpage, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it. Here in syn- Looking ahead, the Versilia Chamber Music Festival takes thesis is what to look forward to in 2014: place at Pieve a Elici's San Pantaleone Church in July and

The Chamber Music Season began with two concerts in August. The Concert for San Michele with the Polifonica January; seven more concerts will take place throughout Lucchese directed by Egisto Matteucci takes place in September. February and March on Sunday afternoons at 5 pm at San The fall concert season is in October and November. And a spe-Micheletto Auditorium. Discussions and films are scheduled for cial 50th anniversary concert thanking Maestro Handt will close Fridays and Saturdays before the concerts. the season.

This series will be followed by the Lucca In Music Festival in AML members are offered reduced admission and reserved collaboration with Teatro del Giglio and the Fondazione Cassa di seating at many concerts, including reductions at I Concerti della Risparmio, with concerts from 28 March to 6 June. Guest orches- Normale in Pisa and organized trips to Florence for the lyric and tras will be visiting Lucca: the Orchestra Giovanile Italiana Maggio Musicale Fiorentino season. Membership rates are €50, directed by John Axelrod, the Orchestra Sinfonica Esagramma or €90 including the chamber season subscription. Sustaining (music therapy orchestra), the Parma Trio with the Mantova members (€250) enjoy free admission to all concerts. Student Chamber Orchestra, the RAI National Symphony Orchestra di- membership is €20 and membership for children under 14 is free. rected by Alexander Lonquich, the Orchestra della Toscana Call 0583 469960 (Wednesday and Friday 3 pm to 7 pm - directed by Julian Kovatchev, the L. Boccherini Orchestra Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday 9 am to 1 pm) or write to directed by Gianpaolo Mazzoli. A series of encounters is also [email protected]. The AML offices are at planned from 24 April to 30 May, including discussions with Via San Micheletto 3.Maestro Handt and other distinguished music scholars. Cinemagraphic projections at San Micheletto and Cinema Astra, Music lovers living outside the Walls of Lucca are invited to in collaboration with the association Cineforum Ezechiele 25,17, telephone Grapevine (0583 909012) with offers and requests for are scheduled for three dates in April and two in May. car-pooling.

Maestro Herbert Handt and AML president Simone Soldati

50 YEARS ON THE WINGS OF MUSIC


ast month I was invited to the Terme di Bagni di Lucca • Recuperating and restoring old buildings for public useby Grapevine editor Norma Jean Bishop to view and • Tourist information centres operating on a year-round, full-participate in an exhibition which could promise a bright day scheduleL new regenerative future for the whole of the comune of It was good to meet up with Carla and with other persons inter-

Bagni di Lucca. The project called “The Hub”, and created by Carla ested in the project, and several points above were discussed. For Romani, concentrates on the development of certain environmental example, with regard to no. 11 Norma Jean proposed Fontaines de and cultural features of the area administered by the comune with a Vaucluse, because of its artistic restoration of the paper factory view to revaluing them and making them more accessible to all along the river and because Petrarch lived there. She declared it “a those living in or visiting the area. The end result would be a contin- lovely little model for Bagni di Lucca's recovery.” I have already uously renewing process applied to Bagni di Lucca and its hinter- suggested a further twinning with a noted Welsh spa resort in my land which (like so many other parts of crisis-stricken Italy) sorely post at: http://longoio.wordpress.com/2013/12/05/well-well-well/needs a way forwards which does not present impossible targets but which relies instead on existing time-tested resources. Of course, this project (like all projects!) needs three things in

The beauty of the project is that the means to carry it forwards is this order:all there – there is no need to build new structures or find new meta- 1. Enthusiastic and committed involvement by dedicated phorical oil-fields: just the will to fully realise what is there today and well-informed people.and what is truly possible in the foreseeable future. 2. A guaranteed source of funds.

3. A positive feed-back from local populations at the results Here is a summary of the key points of the project: obtained, resulting in increased participation.

BAGNI DI LUCCA HUB Money is forthcoming but only if the will to use it appropriately • Mission: economic development using local environmental and efficiently is forthcoming too. Bagni di Lucca is a compli-

and cultural heritages cated area in terms of its population. Permanent residents present • Finding new paper products and restoring old techniques only a fraction of the total population one sees in summer due to • Animal husbandry (such as cashmere goats which also its largely holidaying flavour. Yet there are many permanent local

clear the underbrush), environmentally-compatible techniques occupations which could either be re-instituted or developed. The • Promoting growth and sales of local agricultural products above list points the way forwards especially with regard to cash-

(along with an International marketplace) mere goats and pellet manufacture.• Vico Pancellorum and other villages, preservers of ancient Other parts of Europe have successfully pulled their socks up on

Latin dialects: a cultural centre for linguistics studies these matters so why shouldn't Bagni di Lucca do the same?• Restoring spa offerings and health and well-being programs You are cordially invited to the exhibition which will remain • Better programming of theatrical offerings, along with open until January 6th when the whole spa closes down for the

possibilities for musical studies winter period. As far as we are concerned we'll be there every day • Pellet production and forest husbandry until then – not just for the exhibition but also because we've • Attention to historic gardens and areas of special scientific booked ourselves in for sessions at the Grottina where the volca-

interest such as the Prato Fiorito, coordinated with Pescia nically heated waters, producing a natural sauna atmosphere, will and perhaps the UK help us to remove some of those culinary impurities gathered

• Centralizing children's programs, perhaps through Collodi's during the Christmas binge and make us forget that outside Pinocchio associations another meteorological perturbation is pouring even more rain on

• Bringing together various groups involved in church and art (sunny…?) Italy.restoration – by Francis Pettitt

• Twinning with cities and international relations You can follow Francis’ blog at http://longoio.wordpress.com• Improving traffic flow and creating more pedestrian areas Ed. Note: HUB is now on display at Baritalia, Ponte a Serraglio

A New Hub for Bagni di Lucca



There is a pleasure in the pathless wood* ...Bagni's Trails (Part One)

map can be. Thanks to the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) many trails, especially those in the Garfagnana mountains, are clearly marked. I Bagni di Lucca, encircled by more than 25 incorporated villages, is an

inviting destination for strolling, but before wandering off the paved roads, be sure you know where you are going and remember to wear shoes with good, waterproof soles. (These days, we hardly need to add, you should take along an umbrella or poncho!) The Proloco office in Viale Umberto will give you a trail map, but the map isn't very detailed. Here are two short and easy-to-follow strolls. In the future we plan to bring you other trails in the area.

f you've ever walked in the mountains, you know how helpful a good

1. The Browning Path 2. The Byron Path

In 1822 Byron summered at Villa Buonvisi in the part of Bagni known as La Villa. To stimulate his poetic imagi-nation, he surely went walking in the hills behind the Villa.

From Circolo dei Forestieri, walk or drive uphill towards the Anglican Church, turn At the center of town, between Teatro right above the school, and then left towards Villa Ada. Don't go through the gates to Villa

Accademico and Circolo dei Forestieri (next Ada (which has seen better days) unless you want to enjoy the heated swimming pools to the car park), a signpost points towards (very nice on a rainy day!). Follow the road as it bends to the left, then right, becoming the river. Here the couple Robert and cobblestone in the center of Piazza del Bagno. Elizabeth Barrett Browning must have Here in 1471 Domenico Bertini built a villa and spa for the pleasure of his guests, strolled when they stayed in Bagni. You can and 110 years later Montaigne summered nearby. If you have a car and you're lucky see the house where they stayed, in Piazza you’ll find parking here, or the residents might advise you to park below. Umberto Tolomei a few blocks further along Viale Umberto (on the left).

Walking, turn right at the spa (no longer open) and follow the road as it climbs gently, staying on the pavement above the olive trees. About 200 meters further on there’s a yel-low sign for the Chiesa degli Alpini. Following this trail you will reach the little peaked church where the Alpini hold their memorial services. Shortly thereafter, walking

The house contains offices now, so after giving the place a fond glance, walk down to the river and turn right at the footbridge, where you will see another memorial for Robert and Elizabeth. The walk is quick and easy, but unfortunately ends in about 500 meters, behind the Conad grocery store. So as to not destroy the atmosphere, it's best to turn back on your paces along the river, over-looking the occasional plastic water bottle slightly downhill you come to the tiny hamlet of Colle. Here you may want to retrace or candy wrapper, thinking of the Sonnets to your steps back to town, or continue over the hill on the narrow paved road passing the Portuguese that Elizabeth gave to through the forest. A turnoff to the left leads to the abandoned church of San Martino Robert in 1849.... (closed for reasons of safety) and then to Terme Jean Varraud, the thermal spa and

hotel. Behind the Terme, if you go into the piazza commemorating poet Heinrich Heine, you will find that the view, on a good day, is bucolic. Above the stone archway is the palazzo where Grand-Duke Leopoldo II used to stay (during his reign which began in 1814). Unlike his predecessors in Lucca, Leopoldo came here for calm rather than for the exciting country life of the demi-monde.

The road descends to the river in lovely bends and stone pathways, to La Cova (hot water fountain) and Ponte a Serraglio. The entire circuit will take under two hours, depending on how meditative and pensive you become during this walk.

– by Norma Jean Bishop

*from Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage by Lord Byron (Canto 4: CLXXVIII)

QUESTO ALLOGGIO NEL 1471DOMENICO BERTINI MECENATE LUCCHESE

FECE CON LA PIAZZA ED IL BAGNOPER CHI CERCAVA SALUTENELLE ACQUE DELLA VILLA

NELL'ESTATE DEL 1581SOGGIORNÒ IN QUESTA CASA

PER 74 GIORNIMICHEL DE MONTAIGNEE NE TRATTÒ A LUNGO

NEL SUO JOURNAL DE VOYAGE

GEORG’ GORDON BYRONDURANTE L'ESTATE DEL 1822

TROVÒ NELLA SERENA QUIETE DI QUESTA TERRATREGUA ALLE ANSIE DELLA SUA VITA

photo by Debra Kolkka

ELIZABETH BARRETT E ROBERT BROWNING 1806-1861 1812-1889

POETI INGLESI

the spa

IN QUESTA CASAI DUE FAMOSI POETI INGLESI

ROBERT E ELIZABETH BARRETT BROWNINGPASSARONO L'ESTATE DEGLI ANNI 1853 E 1857L’ENGLISH DEPARTMENT DEL BAYLOR UNIVERSITY WACO. TEXAS. U.S.A. QUESTO RICORDO POSE LUGLIO 1930 - ANNO VIII

ith its stunning views over the Apuan Alps, approximately two hours drive from Lucca, San Pellegrino in Alpe W (1,525 meters) is certainly worth a

trip. Covered in snow in winter, the place offers won-derful walks for trekking and is also good for horse-riding, cycling and even motorbike tours in summer and late spring (for info: www.sanpellegrino.org). San Pellegrino is a tiny village with a couple of shops, two restaurants/hotels, and a bar where you can enjoy a cap-puccino with delicious slices of homemade fruit tarts. In the shops (my favourite one is at the bottom of the street) you can buy all sorts of local products: jam, honey, liquors, spelt and chestnut products, dried mush-rooms, fresh porcini and blueberries when in season.

Going through my father's rich library, I came across a book* dated 1613 which, between legend and history, tells of the extraordinary life of San Pellegrino, which goes back as far as the VII century. The son of Romano, a Scottish king, and Plantula, at his father's death he Pellegrino lived there fasting and fighting became king but soon decided to give up his with the devils who, among dreadful earthly fortune and look for a life of retire- screams and horrible visions, often covered ment and poverty, therefore, dressed as a pil- him up with snow, almost suffocating him. grim, he secretly left his castle at night. Legend goes that during an argument the After forty years spent in the Holy Land, in devil slapped Pellegrino and the hermit, who the desert, where he repeatedly fought by that time must have been really fed up against the devil, he went to Egypt and then with the devil, slapped him back so strongly headed for Rome on a ship. In the middle of that the devil flew away and banged his head a violent storm, the work of the devil per- against the Apuan Alps, making a hole in suaded the crew to throw Pellegrino into the what is now called Monte Forato (Perforated open sea in order to restore good weather. Mountain). Pellegrino finally won his battle Using his pilgrim's staff and mantle, against the devils and got the place rid of Pellegrino made a sail which, at a high them. Twelve years had passed since he had speed, allowed him to reach Ancona. arrived, and now he moved into a tiny little

After having visited Rome, in AD 624, he cave naturally carved into a tree where he reached the Lucchese territory and soon lived for seven years, nourished by wild found a dark and thick forest in what was animals who came with full udders to feed then called Termesalone, today San him with milk. Pellegrino died there in 643, Pellegrino in Alpe. This was an ideal place aged 97. In his honour, on that spot, the for one in search of solitude, and Pellegrino bishops of Lucca and Ravenna decided to decided to settle there. The area was build a chapel and a hospital for the use of constantly hit by strong winds, covered in pilgrims. Thanks to San Pellegrino's inter-snow most of the year and haunted by devils. cession, the sheep and cattle hosted in the

hospital were never attacked by wolves and other wild beasts.

Today, inside the hospital there is the interesting Museo Etnografico della Civiltà Contadina (Museum of Country Life), and San Pellegrino's remains rest in the chapel with those of San Bianco, one of his followers, within a beautiful marble shrine by Matteo Civitali (1436-1502). Curiously, the border between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna cuts the sanctu-ary into two, therefore the busts of the Saints rest in the prov-ince of Modena and their lower parts in the province of Lucca.

*Historie delle miracolose immagini, e delle vite de' Santi, i corpi de' quali sono nella Città di Lucca (History of miraculous images, and of the lives of the Saints who are in the City of Lucca), by Cesare Franciotti, Sacerdote of the Lucchese Congregation of the Blessed Virgin, Lucca, at Ottaviano Guiduboni, MDCXIII.

– by Chiara Calabrese– Photos from www.sanpellegrino.org

Day Tripping: The Haunt of a Scottish King

Alpi Apuane under the snow

Tempietto by Matteo Civitali withSan Pellegrino and San Bianco

The sanctuary


What's On This Month

Bologni (violin), Remo Pieri (clarinet) and Cinema: 1-2 Feb . O som ao redor good faith based on the information Vittorio Ceccanti (cello), narrated by Ugo (drama/thriller from Brazil) and 7 cajas (action G available at the time of going to press. Pagliai. 9 Feb., Viaggio in America (Gershwin, film from Paraguay). 8-9 Feb. Estomago (Bra-

Past experience has taught us that events pro- Ives, Copland, Zappa, etc.), performed by Emy zilian/Italian comedy) and La jaula de oro grammed more than a month ahead can change Bernecoli (violin) and Massimo Giuseppe (drama from Guatemala/Spain/Mexico). 15-date, hour or venue. We recommend you check Bianchi (piano). 16 Feb., Miriam Prandi /16 Feb. Infancia clandestine (drama, before setting out. (cello) and Eduardo Turbil (piano) perform Argentina/Brazil) and O ano em que meus pais

Bach, Boccherini, Schumann and Say. 23 Feb., sairam de férias (drama, Brazil). Alessandro Lanzoni (piano) performs Animas lejanas/Almas de distancia, Latin Debussy, Gershwin, Luporini, etc. 2 March, American Video Art: 1-2 Feb. Cesar Meneghetti

LUCCA Susanna Rigacci (soprano) accompanied by vi- (Brazil), 6-9 Feb. (Barcelona), 13-16 Feb. TEATRO DEL GIGLIO olins, violas, horn, harpsichord, organ performs Angie Bonino (Peru). 20-23 Feb. Assoc. 7 Feb. 8.30pm, 9 Feb. 4pm. Il Matrimonio Guami and Monteverdi. See article on page 7. Culturale LiminalB. 27 Feb. to 2 March, Bruno Segreto by Cimarosa, conducted by Julian Antonio Menei Hurtado (Venezuela).Kovatchev with the Cherubini Youth SAN GIUSEPPE ORATORIO, Piazza Antelminelli. Voces Intimae, 27 Feb. 7pm Thomas Linley Orchestra, in collaboration with the Ravenna 7pm Fridays Puccini Opera Recital, 7 pm and W. A. Mozart, two prodigies of the 18th cen-Festival. Tickets €15 to €60. 22 Feb. 8.30pm, Saturdays A Night at the Opera Tickets €17 tury. Riccardo Cecchetti (piano), Luigi De 23 Feb. 4pm. Les Contes d'Hoffman by (€13 residents/students under 23). For advance Filippi (violin), Sandro Meo (cello). Offenbach conducted by Guy Condette for purchase, call 340 8106042 or write Hospice by Glen Caci, Silvia Mai 28 Feb. 9pm.LTL Opera Studio, combining theatres from [email protected]. Daily ticket sales 10am to At the Performance and Exhibition Space. Box Pisa, Livorno, Lucca, Novara. 27 Feb., 6pm at the Basilica di San Giovanni or from office 0583 971125, Thursdays to Sundays 9.15pm, La Vedova Allegra (The Merry 6pm to 7.15pm before performances. from 2pm. Widow) by Lehar by the Compagnia dell' www.puccinielasualucca.com [email protected] to benefit the Misericordia of Lucca. www.delloscompiglio.orgSoprano Eleonora Pirondi, tenor Massimiliano CIRCOLO ALFREDO CATALANI

Constantino, conducted by Maurizio Bogliolo. On 3 Feb. at 9pm, the Circolo Alfredo Catalani MONTECARLOProse season: Pirandello's Non Si Sa Come. A will offer a listening guide to Cimarosa's Secret The Associazione And Or margini creativi pres-reflection on love, directed by Federico Tiezzi. Marriage in the Catalani Room at the San Luca ents two performances in Italian: 14 Feb 14/15 Feb. 9pm, 16 Feb. 4.30pm. Palace Hotel, followed by a listening guide to 9.15pm Nati in casa by Giuliana Musso and Dance: 25 Feb. 9pm. Virgilio Sieni Company's Offenbach's Tales of Hoffman at the same loca- Massimo Somaglino (music by Glauco Venieri) Esercizi di Primavera (Spring Exercises). tion on 17 Feb. 9pm. 9 Feb. the group has and 21 Feb 9.15pm R… esister. 13 buoni Inspired by the conference held on 6 Oct. 1951 planned a trip to Florence to see Madama motivi per rinunciare al suicidio by Laerte by Martin Heidegger (Man Lives Poetically), re- Butterfly at the Teatro Comunale. On 23 Feb. Neri and Caterina Simonelli. Each production flecting on a poem by Holderlin, on a commu- 9pm, a Valentine show at Scuola Sinfonia with deals with dramatic themes, the first with birth nity that was made to disappear, was crushed, actors Vanessa Gravina and Edoardo Sirvavo and the second with death. 0583 229725.and is dedicated to this people. and pianist Piero Trofa. Info 347 9951581. [email protected] office (10.30am to 1pm, 4pm to 7pm), tel. 0583 465320 or 0583 465330, biglietteria CENACOLO DELLE MUSE [email protected], www.teatrodelgiglio.it 22 Feb. trip to Venice to see Rossini's Barber of TEATRO COMUNALE, Piazza Duomo 14.

Seville at La Fenice. Conducted by Giovanni 14 Feb., La Locandiera by Goldoni, with SAN MICHELETTO AUDITORIUM Battista Rigon. Info 339 8039492 or Nancy Brilly. 17 Feb. La Coscienza di Zeno. Associazione Musicale Lucchese concerts [email protected] 26 Feb., Ladies, a musical comedy. 3 March, Sundays at 5pm: Il Discorso del Re with Luca Barbareschi (after 2 Feb., Liturgia per la fine del Tempo (Liturgy VORNO its success at Lucca's Teatro del Giglio last for the End of Time) by Messiaen, performed TENUTA DELLO SCOMPIGLIO, Via di Vorno, 67. year). All at 9pm. Reserve with TicketOne at by Fabrizio Giovannelli (piano), Alberto Nuovissimo, Latin American Contemporary tel. 892101 or call the theatre at 0584 795511.

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What’s on

PISA STATE ARCHIVES, Piazza Guidiccioni 8. Wednesdays at Auditorium Fondazione Banca TEATRO VERDI Imago e Ombra, over 100 dolls on exhibit, del Monte, Fridays at Auditorium San 8 Feb. 8.30pm, 9 Feb. 4pm. Tales of Hoffman. from ancient Egypt to Barbie, including rare Micheletto. All at 9.30pm. 31 Jan. Il Settimo 11,12 Feb. Le Voci di Dentro by Eduardo de dolls from Casa Lenci. From the collection of Sigillo by Ingmar Berman (Sweden, 1957). 4 Filippo (SOLD OUT). 14 Feb. 6pm in Sala Titta Renata Frediani with a beautiful catalog by Feb. Mood Indigo – La Schiuma dei Giorni Ruffo, D'Annunzio and Mascagni 150 years Maria Pacini Fazzi. Until 8 March. Free admis- (France, 2013). 5 Feb. About Elly by Asghar after his birth. Conversation/presentation of 2 sion, guided visits hourly 10am to 1pm, 2am to Farhadi (Iran, 2009). Jobs by Joshua M. Stern new cd recordings of Mascagni, from Turin in 5pm (Mon/ Tues/Sat) and 10am to 12am (USA, 2013). 12 Feb. Falstaff, with Jeanne 1900, with recorded piano performances by (Wed/Th/Fri). Tel. 0583 491465, as-lu@ Moreau, John Gielgud, Orson Welles (1966), Andrea Barbantano and Marco Sollini (free ad- beniculturali.it, www.archiviodistatoinlucca.it preceded at 8.30pm by The Story of Film, an mission). 15 Feb. 9pm, Zerogrammi dance cre- Odyssey - Ep. 5 (USA, 2011). 18 Feb. Moebius ation by young artists. Tel. 050 941111 or 050 FONDAZIONE BANCA DEL MONTE by Kim Ki-Duk (2013). La Paura and 941188 (ticket office). www.teatrodipisa.pi.it Cuore di Camelie by Isabel Pacini, 1 to 23 Feb. Germania Anno Zero by R. Rossellini (Italy,

Open daily 3.30pm to 7.30pm, also Sat/Sun 1954). 25 Feb. Il Paradiso degli Orchi by Concerts from the Scuola Normale at Teatro mornings . www.fondazionebmluccaeventi.it Nicolas Bary (France, 2013). 26 Feb. The We Verdi 25 Feb. 9pm. www.sns.it and I by Michel Gondry (USA 2012, with

PALAZZO BOCELLA, Via della Fratta 36. Italian subtitles).PRATO Lu.C.C.A. Center of Contemporary Art [email protected] METASTASIO-FRANCESCO MARINI, Alfredo Rapetti, Re-writing lives and Flaminia http://ezechiele2517.wordpress.com/Via Cairoli 59. Manegazza, Sentimenti ritratti (Portraits of feel-Chamber Jazz Festival, from classical to eccen- ing). Extended until 2 Feb. Tues to Sun 10am to Circolo del Cinema at Cinema Centrale, San tric, now in its 19th year. 10 Feb. 9pm at Teatro 7pm. 0583 571712, www.luccamuseum.com Micheletto and Fondazione Banca del Monte Fabbricone in Prato: Silvia Bolognesi Open AuditoriumCombo (sax, flute, clarinet, trombone, vibra- VILLA GUINIGI MUSEUM, Via della Quarquonia. Cinema Centrale: Thursdays. 6 Feb., The phone, drums, percussions). 24 Feb. 9pm at L'altra parte. Carte di lavoro. Antonio Possenti. Canyons by Paul Schrader. 13 Feb., Colazione Teatro Metastasio: Michel Portal (soprano sax, Until 7 Feb. Honoring Lucca's artist on his 80th da Tiffany by Blake Edwards. 20 Feb. Miss clarinet) meets Antonello Salis (accordion, piano, birthday. Open 4pm to 7.30pm, closed Sun/Mon. Violence by Alexandros Avranas. 27 Feb., La keyboard). 3 March 9pm at Teatro Metastasio: Tel. 0583 55570. See article on page 17. Vita di Adele by Abdellatif Kechiche.Brad Mehldau Trio (piano, bass, drums). €18 Films by Marco Ferreri. each (3 for €40), with reductions for under 25 and PIETRASANTA San Micheletto: Mondays. 3 Feb., L'Ultima over 65. Free Conferences: 2 Feb. 11am at the Artists for Freedom, celebrating the fall of the Donna. 10 Feb., Ciao Maschio. 17 Feb., Storie Ridotto of Teatro Metastasio, I colori del jazz da Berlin Wall 25 years later. 16 Feb. to 16 March di Ordinaria Follia. 24 Feb., Come Sono Buoni camera. 16 Feb. 11am at Scuola di Musica Verdi i Bianchi.in Prato, La magia del piano trio. Box office 055 Banca del Monte Auditorium: Friday 7 Feb. La 210804, on-line at:http://ticka.metastasio.it Grande [email protected] LUCCAIl Servitore di Due Padroni (Goldoni) 2 Feb. 4pm. CINEMA ASTRA, Piazza del Giglio 7. Beginning this year entrance to San Micheletto

4 Feb. 3.30pm & 5.45pm. 5 Feb. 3.30pm & is always free, with €5 added to the normal €5 8pm. Justin Bieber, Believe. €10. annual membership. At Cinema Centrale, with 12 Feb. 7.45pm, Mozart's Don Giovanni di- regular membership card, the price is €5 per

LUCCA rected by Nicola Luisotti, via satellite from film, or €25 annually. Membership cards can be SAN CRISTOFORO CHURCH, Via Fillungo. London's Royal Opera House. €12, reduced €10. acquired on the evenings films are shown in Jorge R. Pombo, Lucca – The Passion Until 2 San Micheletto or Cinema Centrale, or at March. Sponsored by Assoc. San Cristoforo. Cineforum Ezechiele 25,17 Film Series Baroni Bookshop in Piazza San Frediano. [email protected], 0583 957660. Tuesday performances at Cinema Astra, www.circolocinemalucca.it

EXHIBITIONS

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this Month

FLORENCE GATTAIOLACINEMA ODEON, Palazzo Strozzi. VILLA ROSSI

Original language films. For the complete pro- Carnival, February/March weekends through- Encounters for the Premio Voltaire. Veronica gram call 055 214068 or see their website: out Italy. Fantastic satirical floats parade along De Romanis' book Il Caso Germania (Marsilio www.odeonfirenze.com Viareggio's Lungomare (Sundays: 16/23 Ed.) 7 Feb. 6.30pm. Free conference followed

February, 2/9 March and Tues. 4 March). by dinner (€25). Please reserve by 5 Feb. at Saturday night soirées (15/22 Feb., 1/8 March) [email protected] or 347 5774616 (Laura).and many more neighborhood street parties.

LUCCA Marlia and many other towns hold their own PORCARIMusica Ragazzi program of the AML, in its 8th carnival celebrations. Pietrasanta Martedì FONDAZIONE LAZZARESCHI, Palazzo di Vetro.season, dedicated to Maestro Herbert Handt: Grasso procession, Bagni di Lucca celebrates Beers from around the world (Italy, Belgium, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it at the Casinò on 14 Feb. See article on page 5. America, Northern Europe and Oceania), a tast-See article on page 7. ing course in 6 sessions. Mondays at 8pm be-

ginning 20 Jan. €15 per session. Reserve at TEATRO DEL GIGLIO 0583 298163 or [email protected] Feb. 3pm, 6 Feb. 6pm, children can attend LUCCArehearsals of Il matrimonio segreto. Free PALAZZO DUCALE, Sala Ademollo. BAGNI DI LUCCAadmission. For information please contact the Associazione Musicale Lucchese RISTORANTE DEL SONNO, Vle Umberto 146.theatre. Saturday 1 Feb. 5pm, Conference on The Book Chess group Tue/Sun 8.30pm. Info 0583 805080.

of Revelation: finite time, infinite life? with AUDITORIUM OF SAN MICHELETTO Gabriella Caramore (RAI Radio 3) and Padre PIETRASANTA15 Feb. 10.30 Luigi Boccherini's birthday cele- Benedetto Mathieu, introduced by Fabrizio San Biagio Festival, 3/4 Feb. Traditional bless-bration in the project Io e Luigi veri amici (Luigi Giovannelli. Saturday 22 Feb. 5pm, ing of the throat (at the Duomo), with a huge and I, true friends). Lecture/concert by Miriam Presentation of the book dedicated to trumpeter street market and fair throughout the town.Prandi (cello) and Edoardo Turbil (piano).€3. Chet Baker, Il mio amico Chet (M. P. Fazzi ed.) www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it by author Domenico Manzione.

VORNO CASERMETTA S. COLOMBANO, on the Walls. Lucca's Teatro del Giglio Winter Festival:TENUTA DELLO SCOMPIGLIO, Via di Vorno 67. Saturday 1 March 5pm, Lucca e Venezia, Tim Reynolds TR3 3 March 9pm. Nessun dorma staged and planned by capitali della Musica, conversation with Francesco de Gregori 21 March 9pm. Kinkaleri with Yanmei Yang & Marco Claudia Nardini, Gabriella Biagi Ravenni, Mazzoni. Opera in 3 acts loosely based on Maestro Herbert Handt, Lorenzo Giovannelli. Lucca's Cinema Astra (March to June), Piazza Turandot. At the Performance and Exhibition del Giglio. Operas and films in Dolby Stereo.Space. 9 Feb. 3.30pm. Box Office tel. 0583 CENTRO CHIAVI D'ORO, Via Chiavi d'Oro 6.971125, Thursdays to Sundays from 2pm. Association for Lucca Senior Citizens. Open Sant’Andrea di Compito, Camelia [email protected] Monday to Friday 3.30 pm to 6.30pm. with films,

games and discussions on Sunday, Wednesday Pisa's Teatro Verdi in March: Andrea Chénier by VETRIANO DI PESCAGLIA and Thursday afternoons. 0583 48097. Giordano, Pinocchio by Valli, Buzzati Soirée. RISTORANTE IL GUERRIERO

Masked Dinner-Dance sponsored by Amici di FONDAZIONE BANCA DEL MONTE AUDITORIUM, Pisa Scuola Normale concerts 4 to 7 March, 16 Gianduia. 15 Feb. 8pm. Prizes for the most piazza San Martino 12. March, 23 March.beautiful masks, games and activities for chil- Societa Lucchese dei Lettori 11 Feb. 6pm, dren. Buffet style dinner. €22 adults, €10 for Maurizio De Giovanni, Buio per i bastardi di Prato’s Palazzo Pretorio museum opens in children under 10. Please reserve by 14 Feb. at Pizzo Falcone, ed. Einaudi. 4 March 6pm, R. April with 150 artworks in its permanent col-0583 358163. Romagnolo, Tutta questa vita, ed. Piemme. lection. www.palazzopretorio.prato.it

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hope you had a good holiday. I for non-compliance, nor have I learned ended up at the house of my wife's how they intend to police it.grandmother in the South of Italy, in I some ways a blessing as the town Daylight robbery

(Castelvetere sul Calore, Irpinia) is in In 2014 the imposta di bollo on securi-quite a remote location and nicely located ties and deposit/bank accounts in Italy on the side of a mountain. Beautiful view, will be removed. Great news I hear you amazingly renovated Borgo Medievale say! Maybe, but then a new imposta has (and now hotel for those who want to stay been announced of 0.2% on the amount there), great food and super wine. For any- (at 31st Dec) that will replace the previ-one who is familiar with Fiano di Avellino ous €34.20 flat fee on deposits. So for wine, wines from Taurasi and wines from someone with €50,000 in the bank, a new the valley of Avellino in general, most of imposta di bollo of €100 will apply for the vineyards are in the area. It's a place for the year. This will be applicable for 2014, those who fancy venturing into the parts of onwards. This will, presumably, replace Italy that are still undiscovered. The bless- the current rate of IVAFE on overseas for anyone with financial assets the ing was that it was quite difficult to get a assets as well. IVAFE is only 0.15%. But I increased bollo is a big blow and the phone reception (never mind wi-fi) and I think we can expect that the tax on domes- removal of the flat fee of €34.20 from bank would have to walk ten minutes to the tic and overseas assets will be harmonised. accounts will affect you if you are trying to other side of the town just to pick up one live on the interest you receive from your bar on the cell phone. With a stomach full This is a good reason to start looking at savings. In a way it is a tax on the “wealth-of Quality Street and lots of other food cash alternatives. As an example, if you ier” as those with low to no savings will not besides, I did not make it often. have €100,000 in cash and earn 0.5%, then be caught in the trap. However, as always

Enough of Gareth's Christmas tales. the interest earned is €500. When you take seems to be the case in Italy, most of these What have the Italian authorities been off the new bollo, 0.2% i.e. €200, plus taxes are presently self-defeating in that doing during this time? I should point out income tax of 20% on the interest, i.e. they pull more money into the Government that they have a habit of making their another €100 then the real return is €200. coffers and away from the pocket of those announcements around Christmas and Your effective interest rate is now 0.2%. If who could spend it and create future eco-then just before or during the August sum- you are living from interest on savings or nomic growth. Incentives are being offered mer period.... I wonder why? interest then now is a good time to be look- to business owners and start-ups to stimu-

Some announcements that might affect ing at alternatives to cash to maintain your late business in Italy, but, honestly, at the cur-you are below, and some of you might income stream in the future. rent levels of taxation it is impossible to see wish to hold your breath. why an entrepreneur would want to set up in

Minimum reporting threshold for Italy when the chances of failure due to tax Rentals - Goodbye cash funds held abroad and red tape burden are so great.

From 2014 owners of properties in Italy, If last year was the year for confusion The sad truth is that all over Europe such which they rent, will be expected to have about how to report assets held abroad, at efforts to reduce national debt levels are the rent paid only through traceable meth- least in 2014 they are offering some fur- taking place, and will continue for some ods of payment, i.e. through a bank ther clarity. As of 2014, there will no lon- time to come. We all have to swallow the account. (I assume that means Italian or ger be any minimum threshold when bitter pill for the time being and just plan overseas, as long as it is traceable) reporting assets held abroad. Previously, to be more effective and reduce tax liabili-Penalties or sanctions against both parties any amount below €10,000 was not ties here possible. The start of the year is (renter and owner) can be made if they are expected to be reported, but from 2014 all always a good time to look at how your not adhered to and subsequently found amounts, no matter how large or small, finances can start working better. out. Only public buildings, such as Case should be expected to be reported on the Popolare (public housing), seem to be RW form as of 31st December. – from the E-Zine of Gareth Horsfall, excluded. I haven't seen nor found the sup- Those are the main points that will be financial consultant, tel. 333 6492356, posed sanctions that they intend to impose affecting you in the years to come. Certainly email [email protected]

Legge di Stabilità 2014 a.k.a. more taxes

General markets Books and prints Arts & CraftsLucca, Via Bacchettoni Wed & Sat a.m. Lucca, Corte del Biancone Every day Lucca, Piazza San Giusto 22,23 Feb.Lucca, Piazza S. Francesco 9 Feb. Pietrasanta 8,9 Feb.S. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Antiques Marina di Pietrasanta Every Wed p.m.Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m.

Lucca 15,16 Feb. Castelnuovo Garfagnana 8,9 Feb.S. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m.

Forte dei Marmi 8,9 Feb. Pieve Fosciana 23 Feb.Pietrasanta Thurs a.m.Pietrasanta 2 Feb.Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.Barga 9 Feb. Plants and flowersTonfano Sat a.m.Viareggio 22,23 Feb. Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Every Friday a.m.Castelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m.

Pescia Sat a.m. Pescia 23 Feb. Pietrasanta 9 Feb.

MarketsMarkets


orn in Barcelona in 1973, Jorge R. Pombo currently lives and works in New York City. Since 1998, his works have been shown in museums, B galleries and festivals in Italy and abroad. In 2013

his personal show entitled Variations on Tintoretto was held at the Madonna dell'Orto, Venice.

Lucca - The Passion, Pombo's exhibition in the Romanesque San Cristoforo Church on Via Fillungo was inau-gurated on 11 January and will be on display until 2 March. This event is sponsored by the Spanish Office of Culture in Italy, the Comune of Lucca, the Ramon Llull Institute and other local institutions.

Pombo begins with famous paintings by Diego Velàzquez, Caravaggio and Titian to create variations on the originals, by interventions on the painted copies that use pictorial gestures and solvents poured over the canvas, in a technique known as action painting.

The series dedicated to Lucca and to the 500th anniversary of its Walls, created in his Brooklyn studio last year, are Google Earth maps of the city and its buildings, reproduced on canvas with techniques inspired by action painting, to create abstract compositions that reveal the process beneath.

Project designed and coordinated by LALLA'S JOIN of STEFANIA TROLLI

Curator VITTORIO BERNAROLIPromoted and organized by

ASSOCIAZIONE SAN CRISTOFORO Art–Philosophy–Science–Spirituality

Overall coordinator ARTURO NARDINI Tel. + 39 0583 957660, [email protected]

Lucca – The Passion


Variazione su Cristo crocifisso di Velazquez (I/XII e V/XII) 2004, 248x338 cm, oil on canvas

Variazione su Cristo crocifisso di Velazquez (XII/XII)

2004, 248x169 cm, oil on canvas

Jorge R. Pombo, Lucca 12 2013, 190x230 cm, oil on canvas

The Oxford Ben is your English host, bringing you food with a creative twist, cocktail bar after 6 pm. Events such as parties and business lunches can be arranged in advance. Wedding toasts upon request. Closed Sundays.

Restaurant-Bar-AperitifsTraditional cuisine Fresh products

Via Santa Giustina, 7 – Luccatel. 349 0994869

[email protected]

–

Italian Horizons

talian Horizons is a new exhibit of photographs and drawings, beginning in Chicago on 9 March, with a one-day preview in February. The artists are:I

• Nazareno Giusto, born in Barga in 1989, author of a “graphic novel”

• Pepper Pepper, American painter-photographer, owner of a bed and breakfast in Ghivizzano

• English painter Keane, Barga resident and founder of Barga News in 1996

In eight drawings, Nazareno tells the history of Lucca through film, using a format that recalls cinemagraphy. A positive Italy, rich in poetry and little heroisms.

Pepper, using black and white photography, reveals the hidden corners of Coreglia.

Keane’s paintings show the Serchio Valley, Garfagnana country life and ancient traditions that no longer exist.

The exhibition has the backing of Coreglia's mayor Valerio Amadei, of Black Bird Gallery's owner-director The project was introduced by the mayor and the artists on 25 Salvatore Mastroianni, and of Italian-American Human January in Coreglia Antelminelli. Lucchesi nel Mondo president Relations Foundation president Louis Rago. The aim of the Ilaria Del Bianco expressed her enthusiasm, saying this will exhibition is to present not the Italy of postcards or spaghetti and reinforce the relationship that Italians have with their emigrants mandolins, or worse still of the mafia, but of these marvelous and will show off their best side to friends across the ocean.villages with their illustrious history. – by Sonia Ercolini

his month, if you are lucky, you will receive a Valentine Day's message. Nowadays it would as likely as not come as an email or text. But not so long ago lovers T waited anxiously on February 14th for the postman to

deliver a letter from the significant Him or Her. Before opening the envelope, they'd savour the moment and gaze in rapture at the loved one's handwriting. Back then it counted to have “una bella mano” – good handwriting.

We may be able to personalise our emails by choosing a fancy font, cool colour and dazzling decorations but I'd still bet, or famiglia”. Hopefully your parents will approve and say “Certo, è “metterei la mano sul fuoco”, that life was more romantic when un ragazzo/una ragazza in gamba!” (a smart kid). One day you lovers sent each other handwritten letters. might even make it up that aisle and hear your friends wish you “in

Love may be a wonderful thing but it can make people behave bocca al lupo!” (Good luck!). Afterwards if you're in Italy, the re-weirdly. When they're really infatuated they wander about with ception is likely to be held at a restaurant and you'll be served more “la testa fra le nuvole” (head in the clouds). Friends may remon- courses than you can count. Try to go easy on the food, though, re-strate “Ma che aspetti a mettere la testa a posto?” (What are you membering that “Ne ammazza più la gola che la spada” (Gluttony waiting for to sort your head out?). Love makes you lose your ap- kills more than the sword does).petite, too. But it really would be better if you ate something – And if, as sometimes happens, He or She then leaves you for an-“mettere qualche cosa sotto I denti”. other, don't “mangiarti il fegato” (eat your liver, eat your heart

If things don't work out between you and Him/Her and you have out). Look for some kind of distraction. Gardening could be the an-a “cuore spezzato” (broken heart), you might need “una spalla su swer, if you have a “pollice verde” (a green thumb, fingers). Love cui piangere” (a shoulder to cry on). Try not to turn to the bottle, and romance will never die but if your own personal one does, it's “alzare il gomito” (raise your elbow). The wine might “dare alla better to stay with your “piedi per terra” (feet on the ground), and testa” (go to your head). keep your “testa alta” (head high).

But if, on the other hand, all goes well, you may eventually bring – by Susan Jarmanthe loved one into the bosom of your family or “il seno della – Reprinted from March 2007 Grapevine

Body Language


Possenti’®s Other Side

ossenti's 80th birthday exhibit at Lucca's Villa Guinigi National Museum, The Other Side: Working Papers, shows preliminary sketches and works on paper by Lucca's much-loved artist, whose fantasy worlds are familiar to Lucca's citizenry. Along with P his well-known satirical drawings, and photographs of the artist by Aurelio Amendola, there are intriguing poems and comments, some of which we have translated here.

Crazy Signal-Man from Luni

The Mediterranean navigators Stories of Pinocchio: Pinocchio's Beachfear the crazy signal-men:They appear along the coast and give Often Pinocchio went to the beach confused or erroneous signals with two companions, to observe from far awaythat often lead to shipwreck. the whales at play. His friends wereThe most feared of these is from Luni, the sailor Sempredispalla, and thethe one who, recalling the destruction crazy Caterattaio. Truly dear friends!of his city at the hands of Pinocchio thought that to console histhe barbaric sailors, is particularly sadness, they pretended not topersistent in provoking see his donkey ears.clamorous disasters.

Travel Diary

I continue not to know what drove meto refuse the easy mapswith unequivocal signsand secure signals.I loved insteadthe low depths,the unexpected reef,the improbable warning of a false lighthouse.At night I followedthe magical dream routes,by day I triedto find the ways of return.I sought courageto dress the feathersof the ignorant savage.I preferred over the yearsto rob the clothes of the sleeping sailor.

Possenti's comments on L'Altra Parte (from his catalog): The other side is the hidden and secret place that defines our From outside, dreams, memories and visions rush to enter. I try

individuality, measures us and distinguishes us, makes us similar to welcome all of them, to welcome them like creatures. With but never equal. respect and tenderness. They will become beloved occasions to

In the incommunicability of the other side there are no masks give over to the mysterious alchemy that transforms them into and conventions, no programs or intentions, no orders or visible shapes. My life has been marked by this undeserved and precepts. The principles that rule are those of the arithmetic of the extraordinary fortune, this daily unavoidable and happy path.heart, for which 2 plus 2 equals 5. Or 3. Or sometimes, even 4. But the years pass and nature wants its due: the hand begins to

It is the space of consolation and shelter, of the light of an tremble, the eye sees and doesn't see. The unexpected, cruel attraction, of the acute bitterness of lack. fatigue overcomes one.

My other side is like a room to which I alone have access. Now I have understood and decided: I want to be ever more It seems to have only one door, open to the world. tired. So tired that, one day, I won't notice that I'm drawing with a

pencil without a point.Then the maternal caress of the end will come.


ear friends, Christmas is barely over but already it seems far away, and January has flown by with mild temperatures but lots of rain. This isn't a problem for D Nature, since last autumn we didn't have much precip-

itation, and as we know, to counteract the drought that often come with the summer it's good for the land to be re-furnished with water. Now we are facing one of the coldest months of the year, which fortunately is also the shortest, but there are a few signs that spring is on its way. Some crocuses are peeking out here and there, a Hellebores is

hold. At winter's end, the lawn flowering at the base of an oak tree, should be aired (this can be done the mimosa and forsythia are begin-with a rake by making holes in the ning to turn yellow, and the buds of soil, or for those with larger lawns the plants are beginning to swell. In appropriate machines can be rented) the blink of an eye, we find ourselves and fertilized with a mineral fertil-re-living this spectacle of rebirth, izer that contains a good dosage of Nature's annual gift. azote, which operates slowly over So my friends, let's get busy or time. We can also prune any bushes we'll be left behind. Rainy days are

perfect for checking over and that are no longer in flower, and repairing our tools. To maintain our even if it's a bit late, trim the Laurus dear gardens, it's important that the nobilis and Laurus caerasus, tools be in perfect repair. Let's sharpen our pruning shears, trim- removing their autumn growth and re-shaping them so that they mers, grass cutters and hedge clippers so that they cut cleanly and grow the way we like them.neatly. We need to oil and grease every point that calls for it, The Laurus nobilis (laurel) deserves a bit more discussion. We checking that motorized tools work well, cleaning their spark don't often give it much importance, although it protects us from plugs and filters. Where we can't do this on our own, we hand noise and from indiscrete eyes, as do other plants used as hedges. them over for the time being to a The laurel is a historic plant of many good mechanic. virtues. In ancient Rome it was the

It's not too late to transplant trees, symbol of victory. Laurel crowns bushes and other plants. In the more were used to ornate the heads of specialized garden centers and nurs- victors in sports competitions, and eries we can still find roses and fruit of heroes in battle. plants with bare roots, offering us The laurel is a semi-evergreen of good promise of taking root, with Mediterranean origin that can grow limited cost. Remember to prepare a as tall as ten meters. It can even be hole larger than the dimension of the grown in vases (if they are big plant's root system, and situate enough). Its cultivation is quite organic fertilizer/ soil mixtures so simple: it appreciates a sunny expo-that these are not in direct contact sure, can adapt to various kinds of with the roots. This will help the soil, as long as there is no pooling plants to develop well in their first water, and being very hardy, can years of life. tolerate both cold and heat. Although

This is also a good time to divide usually grown as a hedge, it can also the root balls of perennials like hosta, be grown as a tree. Where space is no echinacea, geraniums, gaura, etc., so problem, it can grow freely for that we can use these in various parts several years, since it tolerates even of the garden. Obviously this work should only be done when the the most severe pruning. Its aromatic leaves are used (fresh or dried) root systems are big enough to be divided. in cooking: to flavor stews, soups, roasts and meat dishes in general,

In the orchard, when the buds begin to swell it's time to give the helping in digestion. In herbalism, even its berries are used. These trees some final treatments before they flower. Especially for apri- provide an antiseptic oil used topically to treat skin disorders. cots and peaches, we can use an atomizer or a classical manual Like camphor leaves, laurel leaves are placed in wardrobes, pump, distributing on the leaves and their shoots a solution of because their smell keeps moths away. water and Bordeaux mixture or a diodina-based product As you can see, there are many good reasons to care for this (respecting the dosages indicated on the packages), to counteract lovely evergreen. Even British tennis champion Fred Perry, when the illness commonly known as peach blister. he began his entrepreneurial clothing career, chose two laurel

At mid-month, we dedicate more time to the lawn, raking up the branches as his symbol. last fallen leaves and removing moss by using iron sulphate-based Best wishes to all at this winter's end! treatments. Within about ten days of treatment, the moss will dry and we can remove it with a rake. We then need to transplant the Simone Lippi is at Il Cerchio Verde, www.ilcerchioverde.it grass in order to have an even lawn in areas where the moss took Tel. 0583 316713 or 335 8354437

The Garden in February

Hellebores

Crocus

Laurus nobilis


itting with one of her unique Following intensive private lessons, knitted pieces behind her, Cindy Cindy made a business out of her skill Berg stretches out in her sun and in her 20's and 30's, she sold her S filled room that thankfully feels pieces all over the country, but stayed

warm on a truly freezing day in Lucca. On based out of Michigan. From this grew the first floor of a gorgeous palazzo inside another business in designing and con-the city, Cindy and her husband Mel have structing houses in which she states her lived here for a little over a year hailing inspiration was often Italy- harkening from Michigan in the United States. It was back to the stone and natural materials.really simple, she tells me on their deci- With house designing behind her, she sion to move to Italy, We decided we tells me that she and her husband have wanted to get out of Michigan and that's it. adjusted seamlessly to living in Italy say-The two took a month long trip to explore ing, It's a much more tranquil existence for where they wanted to live and found us. There's very little stress. And I feel so Lucca. We went home, made arrange- lucky, to be somewhere that is beautiful ments, sold 90 percent of our possessions, everywhere you look. Surprisingly, how-and came back a month later. ever, she told me her strangest inspiration

What made it over here after the 90 per- for creating her garments didn't come from cent possession purge, were Cindy's gor- anything she had seen here, but from some-geous knitted pieces of clothing…or more thing seemingly much simpler. One time, I appropriately referred to as art. These had a Styrofoam cup with water beads on include jackets, dresses, shirts, sweaters, it. I did a white angora sweater with little scarves, hats and even baby clothing. The crystals. She said that often times she will floor-length jackets struck me the most draw pictures but the yarn will do what is when I first went to see her work. They are wants to do, It's magic to watch it grow into something one would see on a runway in something stitch by stitch.Milan: couture, elegant, one of a kind. Finishing our conversation, I asked Cindy Cindy is currently selling her designs by Every piece is completely handmade and what she wanted to say with her pieces. She appointment from her home in Lucca. You poured over for countless hours resulting took a moment to gather her thoughts and I can make an appointment at CindysCloset in fantastical final creations. noticed the beautiful handcrafted throw blan- [email protected] and look at her newly

I used to sketch something in my head ket that was unmistakably hers catching the launched website: http://cindyscloset.wix. and I had a knitting teacher that would afternoon light on the little pieces of yarn she com/cindyscloset help me figure out how to make it, she had no doubt meticulously attached by hand. – by Hannah Mossrecalls after saying her initial inspiration She responded to my question with, It's just photos by Elizabeth Lawrencecame from seeing some incredible sweat- something I love to do that comes totally from ers when she was in her 20's. I went crazy! my heart and soul. And I don't worry about She would drive an hour to her knitting who is going to like this or that because it teacher's house stating that she was doesn't matter. It matters that someone will. obsessed with designing and then making Someone will understand it and love it.clothing, Finally I just would stay at her house all day because it was so far away.

–

Art as Clothing, Clothing as Art


Letter to Grapevine

ear wonderful Grapevine Staff ... alute! Thank you for sending your fantastic Grapevine

holiday email, with all the year's beautiful covers D and selected articles. I had such a good time looking at each cover and the list of cover artists. I was delighted when I opened the Oct. issue and heard The Hymn to the Walls! It brought a smile to my face and and much admiration for Gianfranco Cosmi! Plus, the reading of fresco painting.

You offer the gift of learning about Tuscan culture with each issue. 12 gifts a year!

As a former teacher, I am most pleased to read that the Grapevine offers The Young Writer's Award. This is such a good opportunity for young people and your magazine should be commended for such encouragement.

.... Here in Boston we are getting ready for the new year, 2014 ... a better and brighter year than 2013 and the Marathon tragedy. The year has brought a stronger spirit and it has shown us that kindness really is around us. People from all over the world gave us support and prayers and we were blessed.

I am attaching a few photos from our time in Brancoli and Casa Picchi. Grazie, for your thoughtfulness and kindness in emailing your ecard to me. You touch my heart...

Nancy Massey Edwards Framingham, Massachusetts (USA)

Shelping people to find out what is happening in our area. The first issue appeared in October 1994. This G is what was written in their first editorial:

This is the first issue of GRAPEVINE, a monthly guide in English to what's on in Lucca and the surrounding area. There is a lot going on in this area but finding out about it is not always easy and can depend on picking up a leaflet by chance in a hotel reception area or spotting a poster in town. Now the visitor to Lucca can find information collected together as never before.

GRAPEVINE is not just a list of events and activities. The articles reflect many different aspects of local life and news and are not limited just to items of traditional tourist interest.

We believe that a monthly of this kind, which looks at Lucca with a different eye from that of established local publications, will be of interest not only to people passing through this area but also to those who live here permanently.

I have found the magazine very useful in the 10 years I have been coming to Bagni di Lucca, and still have most of the copies I have bought over the years. It is a great way to keep up with local activities.

Look out for the magazine in local news agents and you can also sign up to read Grapevine on line.

Congratulations on the first twenty years.… May there be many more.

See Debra Kolkka’s blogs:

rapevine magazine has been around for 20 years,

Bagni di Lucca and Beyond at bagnidilucca.wordpress.com and Bella Bagni di Lucca at www.bellabagnidilucca.com

From Bella Bagni di Lucca

Managing Editor Silvano Simi


VIA ACQUACALDA (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.

Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales

House clearance - Removals.

Clues in English have answers in Italian and vice versa

CruciwordCompiled by Helen Askham

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONALS

AccountantPaola Girolami(Universities of Pisa and Bristol)Via Delle Ville 354/A, Luccatel 0583 471734 fax 0583 952349

ChiropractorsCynthia Christensen, DCVia Fillungo 9, Guamotel 0583 947117 cell 340 4142329

Dental SurgeonsDr. Barbato & Dr. Bertani

Dr. Rogier Staal(University of Amsterdam)Via Farnesi 25a, Luccatel and fax 0583 953633Dutch/English/Italian/French/German [email protected]

OdontostomatologistDr. Carlo G.F. MartiniVia Romana 231, 55100 Luccatel 0583 467975 [email protected]

LawyersAlberto Del CarloAdmitted to the Italian High Courts Piazzale Ricasoli, 241 - 55100 Luccatel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352 email [email protected] the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.

Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian)Via Ungaretti n. 144 55100 Luccatel +39 05831892444fax +39 [email protected]

Naturopathy, Shiatsu massage Enrico Chiesa Centro Dharma Yoga Via Pesciatina 385, Lucca Phone 347 7420449

Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Luccatel 0583 492853

December solution

Down

1 Bretoni (6)

2 Formerly Persia; già Persia (4)

3 Gli amanti di Virgilio (4,3,6)

4 Indirizzo (7)

5 Lots of (5)

6 Solomon fell in love with the queen of this tribe (4)

7 Ricordo (6)

12 Edoardo VIII abdicò per lei (6)

13 Sincero (7)

14 Amò Desdemona (7)

16 L'amò Heathcliff (5)

18 Vede 20

19 Lei cantò con Sonny (4)

Across

1 Privo di vista ... come l'amore (5)

4 He loved Guinevere (4)

8 Lui soffrì in modo terribile per

Eloisa (7)

9 He was inspired by Beatrice (5)

10 La timida firma del 14 febbraio (4)

11 Theatre dressing room (8)

12 Il Romeo e Giulietta di Bernstein e Sondheim (4,4,5)

15 Permessi, patenti (8)

17 Frusta (4)

20, 18 In perfetta forma (2,3,4)

21 Scaglione militare (7)

22 Morì su questa la donna di 3 (4)

23 Serious (5)


1 2 3 4 5

6 7

8 9

10 11

12 13 14

15 16 17 18

19

20 21

22 23

C O M E T A A N G E L SH I A M O R E X AR A G R U A R K M NI R A A S I N O B I TS O D A E C O C R AT M M A D N E S S R CM A I R U M A EA B A M B I N O CS T A T L IE R O D E B A G E LV A N A N E V IE N T R A A N S I A

S A N T A C L A U S

Primary and Nursery School

www.scuolamimosa.it - [email protected]

Viale Castracani 773 - 55100 Lucca

0583.462010 - 347.2601377

.

. Bilingual nursery school program

. Tradition and innovation in a high qualitylearning environment

. From 7.45 am to 6 pm, with option ofattending at various time periods

. Summer Camp

Enrolments open for 2014/2015

Nice holiday apartment for sale

The property consists

Country house

, Bagni di Lucca. Closecentre, 2 bdrms, garden, brand new bespoke kitchen andfloor. Agent managed. Priced to sell 90,000 euro. [email protected] (Ref. 1018)

of 8 units, from 45sqm to 112 sqm, each with its own entrance,private garden and 2 exclusive parkingspaces. Common area with swimming pooland 22,000 sqm garden. Prices between200,000 euro and 410,000 eurowww.lemandolate.it (Ref. 1006)

in small village 15 min. from Bagni di Lucca. 150 sqmwith garden of 275 sqm. Built in 1670, renovated in 2007. Private parkingfor 3 cars with more parking in the piazza and village car park. 3 bedrooms,3 bathrooms, fireplace, woodstove, satellite and broadband. Small garageand large cantina both lighting power and water. The house can be sold fur-nished and ready to use as a B&B. €275,000 negotiable. (Ref. 1008)

PROPERTY FOR SALEGrapevine accepts free advertisements for individuals and acts as medi-ator/interpreter with potential clients world-wide, using qualified ge-ometers for all technical and professional aspects of sales and rentals.

Above , old stone home beautifully renovated. Kitchen,workroom, sitting room, 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, small study. On 3 levels, 130sqm. Panoramic, lovely garden (approx. 300 sqm), nearby olive grove andoff-street parking, on the edge of a small village which has its own foodshopand daily bus service. Lucca is 35-40 minutes by car. €260,000. (Ref. 1012)

Big old stone 19th century house with beams and cottoto renovate. 180 sqm, courtyard. €65,000. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 903)

: Panoramic terraced , 3300 sqm. Approx. 200trees with 45 sqm stone water and some grapevines andfruit trees. €40,000 OBO. (Ref. 996)

of 170smq on 1hectare of land near Bagni di Lucca, withpool (12x5). 4 bedrooms, 3 baths. Plans are available for building 2 morehouses on the property, one 120 sqm, other 210 sqm. Holiday house reserva-tions already booked throughout 2014. 700,000 euros. (Ref. 1014)

inside Walls ofLucca 2 beds/baths, terrace. Renovated0583 418558 (Ref. 1020)

3 guestunits and pool, in a breathtaking locationnear Barga’s historic centre. 600sqm ofliving space. Main house: 5 bedrooms, 4bathrooms, high spec kitchen, dining, sit-ting, family rooms, study/playroom, laun-dry. 1st guest apartment: 2 bedrooms, 1bathroom, kitchen/dining, sitting roomw/ wood burning fireplace. 2nd guest apartment: 1 bedroom, bathroom,sitting room with wood pellet stove, kitchen/dining room. Large privateterrace with views. 3rd guest apartment: Studio with full size kitchen,large private terrace with views. Well-defined shaded areas, flower beds,lawns, vegetable garden, parking, pool with panoramic view.Asking price€1,500,000. . (Ref. 985)

home for sale in thetown of Camporgiano (30 minutes north ofLucca), with 4 bedrooms. Built in the 1920's.256 sqm, independent on 4 sides. €230,000 orbest offer. (Ref. 989)

, near theEnglish library, town square & weekly outdoormarket. with terrace, garden, sheltering laurelhedges, private parking. Views of the hills.Downstairs kitchen, living, bath. Upstairs 3 bed-rooms, bath. Ideal for family, near elem/middleschool. Bright, energy efficient. 120 sqm, gar-den approx. 250 sqm. €185,000 (Ref. 999)

10 minutes from Bagni di Luccawith breathtaking view of Pratofiorito. 300sqm with 3000 sqm of cleared land. On 3 lev-els. €600,000. Ideal for an extended family orjust peace and quiet, enjoyment of nature butwith a fine restaurant at walking distance. To befinished according to your desires. (Ref. 992)

5 km south of Lucca. Ontwo levels, 200 sqm, two apartments lov-ingly restored that can be used as one homeor separately. Terracotta and oak floors,high beamed ceilings, several fireplaces, 2bathrooms, 3-4 bedrooms (one 40 sqm withfireplace) and a huge completely furnishedkitchen. Beautiful south-facing terrace and garden with space for a swim-ming pool. Country lane meandering towards the hills. An excellent res-toration, not too isolated, ideal for professionals, families or a couplewanting to start a bed and breakfast. Contact Grapevine for confidentialnegotiations. (Ref. 960)

of 215sqm, in theCompitese hills with 2 hectares of fruit andolive trees: 2 homes with 2 separate en-trances, one 3 bedrooms 3 baths, the other 3bedrooms 2 baths. Beautifully furnishedkitchens and fireplaces. Both in traditionalTuscan style with quality building materials.

Enclosed 2-car garage, plenty of outdoor parking, gated property, out-door pizza oven, scenic terraces, plenty of space for a pool. Furnishingsavailable; ready to move in condition. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 867)

near center ofBagni di Lucca, to be finished tobuyer specifications, each with1000 sqm of land, offering space fora swimming pool. One, 270 sqm ontwo levels, with garage €450,000.Second, 300 sqm on three levels,generous-sized living and dining rooms, with garage. Overlooking thevillage church. Bedroom doors open onto scenic terraces, marble stairsindoor and stone steps outdoors. €600,000 (Ref. 991)

from Bagni to Benabbio, traditional house,approx. 120 sqm, overlooking the Lima River.Downstairs: kitchen, living room with fireplace.Upstairs: 3 bedrooms, bathroom. Property includessteeply terraced land behind, partly cleared, mostly for-est. Considering the situation on the road, the down-stairs could be converted into a small business, with liv-ing space upstairs. 155,000 euros. (Ref. 1000)

1½ km north of Collodi, built inthe 1960's. Recently re-roofed. Ground floor:central stairway, 2 large rooms (approx. 60sqm each) suitable for use as garages, shops,or mini-apartments. Upstairs: windows fac-ing in 3 directions and a terrace along the eastside of the house, kitchen, bathroom, livingroom and 3 bedrooms, for a total of approx. 130 sqm. The garden is morethan 1000 sqm and although it is on a road, can be sheltered by fencing orshrubs. Plenty of room for gardening and swimming pool. Asking price250,000 euros. (Ref. 998)

Ponte a Moriano

S. Ginese di Compito

Compitese hills olive grove

Beautiful home

Selling 100sqm flat

Fully renovated classic villa

Any reasonable offer considered for quick sale

Large, well-maintained

Home at the heart of Bagni di Lucca

New home

Country home

Peaceful country villa

Newly-built homes

On the road

Stone house

(secolari), metato,

Nice holiday apartment for sale

The property consists

Country house

, Bagni di Lucca. Closecentre, 2 bdrms, garden, brand new bespoke kitchen andfloor. Agent managed. Priced to sell 90,000 euro. [email protected] (Ref. 1018)

of 8 units, from 45sqm to 112 sqm, each with its own entrance,private garden and 2 exclusive parkingspaces. Common area with swimming pooland 22,000 sqm garden. Prices between200,000 euro and 410,000 eurowww.lemandolate.it (Ref. 1006)

in small village 15 min. from Bagni di Lucca. 150 sqmwith garden of 275 sqm. Built in 1670, renovated in 2007. Private parkingfor 3 cars with more parking in the piazza and village car park. 3 bedrooms,3 bathrooms, fireplace, woodstove, satellite and broadband. Small garageand large cantina both lighting power and water. The house can be sold fur-nished and ready to use as a B&B. €275,000 negotiable. (Ref. 1008)

Classified Advertisements(also visible - with photos - at www.luccagrapevine.com)

22 - February 2014 G ERAPEVIN

Lovely flat

Mature teacher

with wonderful view over distant mountains from large ter-race in historic centre of Lucca. All modern conveniences newly reno-vated. Top floor. For rent starting July 2014. Mob.:0039 3474218013(Ref. 1017)

, MA Oxon., offers private tuition in English language& literature for all ages, liceo curriculum, conversation, commerce etc.Michael 334 823 1702. (Ref. 1001)

Removals Local, National, European,Full professional packing and export wrapping

service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. ContactRichard at [email protected] or 340 8748222 (Ref. 771)

servicing the UK with regulartrips every 2-3 weeks

Tibetan elemental therapy

Going through a difficult moment?

.

for wide range of physical, emotional, psy-chological and energetic disorders, plus diet, meditation & lifestyle ad-vice, from English Lama Rig'dzin Dorje 334 823 1702. (Ref. 1002)

Feeling a little lost? Talking itthrough can help a lot! Experienced, London-trained Psychosynthesiscounsellor in Lucca centre. English or Italian. Call 340 5240334. (Ref.1004)

Sardinia near Tempio Pausania

Near train station

Old stone home

Private Italian classes

Translations

Landscape design & Garden

Bilingual repairs/consulting team:

Hatha Yoga Classes in English

Fabulous moving sale

panoramicvilla in a cork oak grove, 360 sqm on 2 levels.1st: large with fireplace, archway, 2 bed-rooms, bath, kitchen, storeroom, cantina. 2nd:large with fireplace, live-in kitchen, 4bedrooms, 2 baths, service bath. Surroundingland 2300 sqm. (Ref. 929)

in Fornoli (near Bagni di Lucca), 3 bedrooms, bath,living room, kitchen, cantina. Unfurnished. 450 euros per month. (Ref.1007)

in a Compitese village. Just 20 minutes' drive fromLucca Centro. 3 bedrooms (2 double, one single), bath, kitchen withlarge fireplace, wooden beams, terra-cotta floors, beautiful views,peaceful garden. Approx. 130 sqm. Furnished. €680 per month (8 monthminimum). (Ref. 993)

Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers indi-vidual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with in-terpreting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. AnnaCell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)

Italian to English and English to Italian by experiencedmother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)

maintenance [email protected]\ www.luccalandscape.it Tommaso ph (+39) 349 284 5399. (Ref. 572)

electronics, home machines, elec-trical, computer problems, doors, locks, bills, utilities... What we can'tfix, we refer to other professionals. End your headaches. Inexpensive, re-liable. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 895)

Experienced instruction in CentroStorico. New Year special price option through February. For informa-tion: 331 834 6850 (Ref. 1016)

Nice furniture, antiques, bedding, outdoor furni-ture, & much more. 340 4142329 or 0583 418672 (Ref. 1015)

salone

salone

Lovely flat

Mature teacher

with wonderful view over distant mountains from large ter-race in historic centre of Lucca. All modern conveniences newly reno-vated. Top floor. For rent starting July 2014. Mob.:0039 3474218013(Ref. 1017)

, MA Oxon., offers private tuition in English language& literature for all ages, liceo curriculum, conversation, commerce etc.Michael 334 823 1702. (Ref. 1001)

Removals Local, National, European,Full professional packing and export wrapping

service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. ContactRichard at [email protected] or 340 8748222 (Ref. 771)

Well established Law Firm

Iphone Smartphone

Need custodians

Kitchen for sale

in Viareggio provides one to one legal as-sistance in English or Italian in civil law cases. We guarantee a promptanalysis of problems and a swift reply. A first consultation is free ofcharge. Our aim is to establish a relationship based on a mutual trustwhich is essential to giving the best possible service. For further infor-mation please contact Avv. Luca Trinchera, tel. 0584/1660358 or visitwww.youritalianlawyer.com (Ref. 1013)

, , Ipad, Tablet, Kindle, Pc, Macbook, BBCIPLAYER... Need HELP??? I can solve all your technical difficulties...Call Simon at 3396975819. 25 euro an hour minimal charge 1 hour. (Ref.1010)

for your country property? Mature bilingual coupleseeks live-in position. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1021)

Cupboards above and below, sink, Smeg fridge and gasrange. 300 euro. Call 0583 86639. (Ref. 1019)Tibetan elemental therapy

Going through a difficult moment?

for wide range of physical, emotional, psy-chological and energetic disorders, plus diet, meditation & lifestyle ad-vice, from English Lama Rig'dzin Dorje 334 823 1702. (Ref. 1002)

Feeling a little lost? Talking itthrough can help a lot! Experienced, London-trained Psychosynthesiscounsellor in Lucca centre. English or Italian. Call 340 5240334. (Ref.1004)

PROPERTY FOR RENT

LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES

SERVICES/WORK

VARIOUS

servicing the UK with regulartrips every 2-3 weeks.

[email protected]@domotikashop.it

20 mins. from Lucca, Tuscany, the six apartments in this historic 14th century building share 17,000 m of beautifullylandscaped property, with individual areas for outdoor entertaining and a 6 x 12 mt. pool for all to share.

Perhaps its most charming aspect is 250 olive trees shared amongst the owners.

2

For more information, please contact us at: or, (owner contact)Or, visit our website for more information on this or other Anderò srl properties in Tuscany at:

[email protected] +39 0583 330867

il Borghettoin San Gennaro

2SOLD

ONLY

4LEFT

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G ERAPEVIN February 2014 - 23

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1964 - 201450 Years on the Wings of Music

“Suoni, tra Identità e Metamorfosi”2014 Chamber Music Season

January to March

RECOGNITION BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC

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G Year XXI No. 1 - February 2014 € 2 RAPEVINE · Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. €4 (reduced €2). ... and the relief of the Virgin by Raffaello da Montelupo. Many artists