furrybootcovers

8/7/2019 furrybootcovers

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Faux Fur Boot Covers

How to Make Faux Fur Boot Covers

You will need:

• 1/2 yard of 44” to 60” wide faux fur fabric OR 1 yard of 30” wide faux fur fabric

• 1/2 yard of 44” to 45” wide lining fabric

• 2 yards of 1/8” wide suede cording

• 1 yard of 1/4” wide elastic

Cutting Instructions:

1. From faux fur fabric cut two rectangles, each measuring 16” high by 18” wide.

2. From lining fabric cut two rectangles, each measuring 17” high by 18” wide.TIP: These measurements are for finished boot covers that measure 14 1/2” high and 17” in circumference. Add length

or width to our original measurements as needed to fit your boots, but be sure to add the same amount to both fur and

lining fabric.

Sewing Instructions:

1. With RIGHT sides together, stitch fur to lining along one long edge, in a 1/2” seam. Press seam lightly on WRONG

side of fur fabric, pressing seam allowance towards lining. This will be the finished edge for the bottom of your boot

cover.

TIP: Most faux furs have a definite direction, so be sure to mark the top of each boot cover with a small piece of tape

on the wrong side of the fabric. This allows you to keep track as you sew, so you won’t wind up with one boot cover’s

fur facing up, and the other’s facing down!



2. Fold boot cover in half with RIGHT sides together, forming a tube. The right

sides of the fur and the right sides of the lining should each be facing each other.

Matching cut edges, stitch tube closed in a 1/2” seam; begin the seam 6” from fur

edge, and finish the seam 7” from lining edge.

3. Turn boot cover RIGHT side out, smoothing out lining towards the top and matching seam openings; lining should

extend 1” past fur.

4. On each side of seam opening, turn back cut edges of lining and fur 1/2” to the inside. Slip-stitch lining to fur to

clean-finish boot cover opening.

5.Turn back edge of lining 1/4” and press in place. Wrap remaining lining around cut edge of fur and edge-stitch in

place, encasing fur.



6. Turn back finished fur edge 1”, forming a casing. Edge-stitch in

place.

7. Cut suede cording in half and in half again; you will have four lengths of cording, each measuring 18” long. Cut two

lengths of elastic, each measuring 14” long.

8. Stitch one length of cording to each end of elastic,

overlapping cording and elastic by 1/2”. Thread one

elasticized drawstring through each boot cover casing,

being sure to keep cording ties even and elastic hidden

inside casing.

TIP: For an extra-fun finish, add pom-poms to the ends of your drawstring ties, or thread large beads onto

each tie and knot the ends to keep them in place.

---Non-Pattern Pattern for Legwarmers-----A few people asked for this, so here ya go! Originally from a friend, but I've created quite

a few pairs, and this method works great and is FAST.

Sorry it's so long, it's stream-of-consciousness.



You'll need...

About a yard and a half of fur (the longer fur, the better).

Matching thread.And elastic, the 1/2" wide size.

A pen/fabric marker for drawing the pattern on.

A tape measure, and a straight edge of some sort.

To measure your non-pattern pattern-- See the document I made.

www.heatherlyn.net/images/bootcovers.jpg

Just to expand upon that.....Take those measurements. Lay the fur out with the "grain" of

the fur running downward, with the backside of the fabric facing upwards.

Starting from the top-left of the fur, measure down the # of inches you need for the

vertical measurement. Then from that point, measure out the 24-26 inches from the left

side, to get the bottom cuff length. (24 inches is PLENTY for a "flare"....26 is gettingwacky...30 is the most you'd want to go!). Once you have that bottom line at the correct

"height" down.... make a mark halfway along that bottom line. (i.e. at 12 or 13 inches.).This is your center line- draw it on the fur all the way to the top.

Then, draw a line extending 9" out on either side of that.... it makes the 18" for your top

cuff. You should have something that looks like an "I", but with the bottom edge longer. Now connect the top line to the bottom line, creating a shape as shown in the drawing.

Cut it out, using just the tips of the scissors to snip the backing of the fabric, so you don'tcut the fur much. You can run a vacuum hose along the edges as you cut, for less mess.

Pin a large "hem" on the top, so you'll have room to run a 1/2 inch piece of elasticthrough after sewing... your mileage may vary on this, depends on how close to the edge

you're comfortable sewing. Once you have that pinned down, trim off the hem-fur that's

now folded down onto the fabric backing- this makes it easier to sew!

Sew the "hem". Be sure you get all the pins out, they get lost really easily in fur! (Ow,

been there).

To sew up the side of the boot cover- just fold it lengthwise (fur inside) so the edges

match up, pin it, and sew along the edge up TO the top "hem"....don't close that up yet!

If your fur is long enough, you don't need to hem it on the bottom. Just-fuzzy fur might

need a bottom hem to not look skanky. Your mileage may vary.

Grab your elastic, pin one end with a big safety pin, and push the elastic along through

the top hem until it comes out the other end. Drag more through so you have enough to

work with at both ends.... turn the boot cover right-side-out, put it on your leg, and pull

the elastic tight enough that it stays on, without cutting off circulation. Pin the elastic at

http://www.heatherlyn.net/images/bootcovers.jpg

http://www.heatherlyn.net/images/bootcovers.jpg



this spot, take it off, and sew the elastic right there. Cut off excess edges, and tuck it into

the side of the cuff.

If your fur is long enough, you won't even need to sew up the edges of the top hem, it

should bunch up enough to cover it. If not, sew it shut at this point.

Lastly, pick your seams, so the fur trapped in the seams is removed. This makes it look

seamless!

Now make another one...and then go party! (Unless you only have one leg. Then, you're

done!)

Those are quite simple to make. They are simply a flared-shape tube of fake fur fabricwith an elastic or drawstring at the top that tightens around the upper calf. All you need to

do is to measure the widest part of your calf and add a couple inches for ease, then figure

out how flared you want the bottom to be. Cut the fabric out in a trapezoid shape and then

sew it into a tube. Use some wide pre-folded bias binding an a shade that either matchesor totally clashes with the fur and sew it on the top. Leave the ends open to draw through

some elastic, that's cut tight enough to hold it up but loose enough to fit over the foot;

then hand stitch the ends of the binding. Or for a fun look, draw through some funkycoloured yarn or ribbon or string and tie some beads on the end of the string. Don't bother

finishing the end of the bias binding. The string/ribbon whatever can be pulled tight and

then tied in a bow or wrapped around the leg warmer several times or whatever you wish.The bottom edge can be bound with binding or if you are in a rush, sew a zigzag stitch

around the raw edge. In a real pinch, just leave the raw edge. You can make them in two

pieces, like old fashioned men's spats, a shoe covering worn in the late 19th earlytwentieth century; but it requires more measuring and it's fussier to make while the tube

style is quick, easy and fun for a party accessory.

You can also knit these from some fur yarn, but that takes a bit more time. You'll need tocheck stitch gages and the like, but here's a simple starting point pattern. You'll need

circular needles in 5mm and some bulky-sh fun fur yarn. Cast on about 60 stitches and

work in a knit 1 purl 1 rib for the length you want the leg warmers to be then loosely castoff. These will be tighter on the leg than the fabric fur ones, but the rib gives them plenty

of stretch. If they are loose at the top thread a length of yarn through the top and then they

can be tied tighter at the top part of the leg.

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