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CONTENTSTITLEPAGE
INTRODUCTION
CHINAKUNMING
DALI&SHAXI
LIJIANG
XISHUANGBANNA
MYANMARYANGON
INLELAKE
KENGTUNG
THAILANDCHIANGKHONG
MAESALONG
CHIANGMAI
LAOSVIENTIANE
LUANGPRABANG
4000ISLANDS
CAMBODIASIEMREAP
PHNOMPENH
KEP&KAMPOT
VIETNAMCHAUDOC
CAIBE
BENTRE
GLOSSARY
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
COPYRIGHTPAGE
IntroductionVietnam is a country I have been returning to for the past ten years, to deepen myunderstandingofitscultureanditsdiverseregionalcuisine.OneachvisitIwouldspendmy days visiting home cooks, street vendors and cottage industries, from the northernmountainsofSapa through to thecosmopolitancityofSaigon, then furthersouth to theMekongDelta,visitingmyuncles,auntiesandcousinswholiverightonthebanksoftheMekongRiver.
Wewouldwakeearlyinthemorningsandjumpstraightintotherivertofreshenup.Thewomenwouldthenspendmostofthedayharvestingricefromthegreenpaddies,whilethemenfishedformudfish,tilapiaandsnakeheadfish,andchildrenpickedplumpsucculentmangoes,jackfruit,lycheesanddurianfromtheorchards.Alltheproducewasthenpackedontolongboatstobegintheeight-hourjourneyuptheMekongtothewholesalemarketsinSaigon.
MyfamilysentirelivelihoodrevolvedaroundtheMekong.Thisabundantriverirrigatedtheirricecropsandfruitorchards,suppliedhundredsofkilosoffisheachdayandwastheirmainmeansoftransport.
IbegantoappreciatehowmanyVietnamesefamiliesalongtheMekongDeltarelysolelyontherivertosurvive.ItwasthenIrealisedthatitisntsimplythepeopleofVietnamwhodependonthemightyMekongtosustaintheirlives.
TheMekongisthetwelfthlongestriverintheworld,andtheheartandsoulofmainlandSouth-EastAsia.Over60millionpeopledependontheriveranditstributariesforfood,water,transportandmanyotheraspectsoftheirdailylives.Theriveralsosupportsoneoftheworldsmostdiversefisheries,nurturingover1500differentspeciesoffishwithinitsvastecosystem.
IdecidedtoembarkonajourneytoexplorethemanycountriesalongtheMekongthatusetherivereverydayfornourishmentandlife.IwantedtoimmersemyselfinthecultureandlifestylesofthepeopleintheGreaterMekongregionandlearnoftheincrediblydiverseproduce,ingredientsandcuisinesoftheseareas.
MydiscoveryoftheGreaterMekongstartswherethemightyriverbeginsitsflowfromtheTibetanPlateau,makingitswaydowntoChinasYunnanProvincethemostethnicallydiverseregioninChina.Iexploretheculinaryculturesandcenturies-oldtraditionsandstoriesoftheYunnan,fromtheNaxipeopleofLijiangtotheDaicommunitiesofXishuangbanna.
JourneyingsouthtoMyanmar,Iuncovertheuniqueflavoursoftheformercapital,Yangon.ImeetthefriendliestandmosthospitablepeoplethatIhaveeverencountered,andlearnthefamilyrecipesofInleLakecommunitiesandcookwiththehilltribesoftheShanState.
IthencrosstheborderintonorthernThailand.BeginninginChiangKhong,andtheninMaeSalongandChiangMai,Ilearnfromlocalfishermen,homecooksandAkhagrandmothersthatthemightyMekongRiverismorethanjustasourceoffooditisa
wayoflife.
MyjourneycontinuesdownthelowerMekongtoLaos,whereIdiscoverunusualingredientsanduniquedishesthatsurprisemysenses.Istartinthecountryscapital,Vientiane,whereIgleanabetterunderstandingofthecuisine,andthemanyinfluencesthathaveshapedittobecomethenextbigflavourtohittheWesternworld.Ithenvisitthenationsfoodcapital,LuangPrabang,whereIexperiencetheseven-daycelebrationsoftheLaoNewYear,andsamplethewonderfulstreetfoodthischarmingcolonialtownhastooffer.
Itravelfurthersouthto4000Islands,wheretheMekongRiverspillsacrossandaroundagiantexpanseofrocks,rapidsandislandsonitswaydowntoCambodia.Thisstunningareahassomeofthemostunusualfishandinsectdishesinthecountry.
AsIcrossovertoCambodia,Iamoverwhelmedbythepeoplesstories,resilience,andtheirpassionfortheircuisineandculture.Throughoutthecountry,beginninginSiemReap,ImeetinspiringcookswhoarestrivingtobringbackancientKhmerfoodandputtheircuisinebackontheworldmap.
Furthersouth,Iarriveinthecapital,PhnomPenh,whereinjustafewmomentsonecanseeandfeelthetrueCambodia:thecontradictorycontrastoftheoldandnew,poorandrich,harshandkind,honestandcorrupt.InPhnomPenhIsampleeverythingfromrusticstreetfoodtohigh-enddining,butwhatstaystrueistheauthenticityofKhmercuisine.
TheMekongRiverflowsfurthersouththroughCambodiatoKepandKampot,knowntohavethebestcrab,squidandgreenpeppercornsinallofSouth-EastAsia.
Asimpleshortwalkacrosssomewhitelinesandaboomgate,andIminmymothercountry,Vietnam.HereItravelwithmyparents,diggingdeeper,wantingtolearnmoreaboutthelivesoftheVietnamesepeoplealongtheMekongDelta.WestartinChauDoc,whereIsampletheworld-classfermentedfishandthecountrysbestroastsucklingpig.
IcontinuebyboattoCaiBe,whererivermeetsland,tovisitthecolourfulvibrantfloatingmarkets,andspendtimeatlocalcottageindustrieslearningage-oldcookingtechniques.
MyGreaterMekongadventuresadlyendsinBenTre,whereIamtaughteverythingthereistoknowaboutthecoconuttree.AnditisinBenTrethatIaminitiatedbythelocals,coaxedintoeatingmiceandlivecoconutworms,finallybecomingatrueVietnameseman.
CHINAKUNMINGTOXISHUANGBANNA
OfallthecountriesIvevisitedinAsia,itisthepeopleofChinawhohaveimpressedmemostwiththeirknowledgeofandreverencefortheirregionalfoodspecialties.Iwitnessedmanypassionatedebatesaboutfoodandingredients,andlearntthatinthestoryoffood,youllalsofindthestoriesoflove,war,deceit,comedy,tragedy,triumphandcelebration,Withsucharichandlonghistory,itislittlewonderChinaremainssuchamasterofAsiancuisine.
OneofthemanythingsIloveaboutChinaisitstraditionofstorytelling,whichholdslittlegemsofhistoryandmemoriesoftimespast.
Bydiscoveringadishoritemofproduce,Idoftenuncoverwithitastorydatingbackcenturiesawonderfulwayofkeepingthepastlockedintothepresent,andrecognisinghistoryintheeverydayfoodthatisstillgrownandtraded.
IdfeltalotofpressurestartingtofilmthisnewcookingseriesinChina,asIcouldntspeakthelanguage,andtheethniccuisinesinthisvastcountryaresodifferentfromwhatweknowofintheWestasChineseahugecontrastformetoVietnamwhere,incomparison,Idfeltprotectedandcomfortablewithinmyownheritageandlanguage.
China,tome,isthegrandmotherofallAsiancuisines,andthesourceofsomanyotherAsianwaysandauthenticities.
EverydayinChina,Iwouldlearnofnewmedicinalherbs,spices,greenvegetables,oils,cookingtechniquesandflavours.Meetingthepeopleandwanderingthroughthemarketswouldtakemeonanexcitingculinaryjourney,educatingmeaboutrealChinesecookingandingredients.Iimmersedmyselfsodeeplyintheculture,eatingeverythingonofferanddoingmybesttospeakthelanguage,thatIbegantofeellikealocal.
IstartedmyjourneyintheYunnancapital,Kunming,affectionatelyknownastheCityofEternalSpring,whereIdiscoveredtheiconicdishesandold-worldstoriesofthisgreatmetropolis.
YunnanprovinceinsouthernChinaisthemostethnicallydiverseareainthecountry.ItisalsotheregionthathaslongbeenknownasShangriLatheremote,mythicallong-lostparadiseonearth.Thelandscapehereisdramaticandbeautiful,andhometointerestingandsometimesrareingredients.
IthenmademywaytotheDaliandShaxiregions,whereIdiscoveredtheuniqueculinaryflavoursandtraditionsoftheBaiandYipeople,andspenttimealongthehistoricTeaHorseTrail.
FromthereItookalongdrivetothefabledoldtownofLijiang,whereImetupwithaNaxifamilywhokindlytaughtmetheirlocalspecialties.
MytripinChinawoundupinXishuangbanna,thegatewaytoSouth-EastAsia,whereIexperiencedtheDaicultureandcuisine.
Itwasafascinatingjourneyindeed.
KunmingKunmingisknownastheCityofEternalSpring,astheairiscleanandcrisp,andthesoilisvery fertile,MostofChinas flowers, freshherbsandvegetablesaregrownhere, andthatswhat Id come to explore, Kunming feels at easemerging the newwith the old,perhapsbecauseof itsyouthfulpopulationofuniversitystudents,whoareeveradaptingandevolvingwithallthenewfashionsandtechnology.
SincemyfirstvisittoKunming,oversevenyearsago,thecityhasbecomemodernised:electricmotorbikesandcarsfillthestreetsand,forthefirsttimeever,theroadrulesareactuallyobeyed,andstreet-foodvendors,whoonceoffereddeliciousMuslimandChinesesnacks,cannolongertradewherevertheyfeellikeonthestreets.
Myflightarrivedearlyinthemorning,soImademywaytotheGoldenHorseGatesinthecentreoftown,whereIwatchedhundredsofelderlyladiesexercisinganddancinginthepublicsquare,followingtraditionaloldmovessettocontemporarymusic.Icouldnthelpbutjoinin.
Afterwards,theladiestoldmeofafavouritelocaldishcalledcrossingthebridgenoodles.LikesomanydishesinChina,thisnoodlesouphadhistory.TheypointedoutarestaurantcalledBrothersJiangthathadbeenservingthisdishfor60years.Whenadishhasagreatstorybehindit,Ihavetosayitaddssomuchmoretothediningexperience.
AfterbreakfastIwasalreadythinkingaboutlunch,soIaskedpeopleonthestreetswhatIshouldeatandwhere.AuniversitystudenttoldmeofahiddenlanewaywhereIcouldfindthebestchargrilledhalalbeefskewers,cookedbyaguynamedMrShwee.HeispartofthelargestminoritygroupinChina,theUyghurpeoplealsoknownasMuslimChinese.Theyarefamousfortheirskewers,butbecausethispopularstreetfoodisnowillegal,onlythebestcooksremain,hiddenfrompublicsight.
Thenextday,IdrovetotheStoneForest,where400,000squarekilometresoflimestonekarstshavebeenskilfullysculptedbynatureoverthepast200millionyears.ButfirstIhadtovisitoneofthebestroastduckrestaurantsinChina,inthetownofYiliang,wheremasterchefPanhasbeenroastingduckfor25years.Hemarinatestheducks,thenair-driesthemfor24hours,ensuringalovelycrispskin.Theyarethencookedoverburningdriedpineneedles,givingthemanamazingsmokyrosemaryaroma.ItwasbetterthantheroastduckinBeijingeveryoneravesabout!
FISHMINTROOT&TOFUSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
Eating in Kunming was such an incredible learning experience. Every day, I sampledsomething new and unique, On my very first day I was introduced to an unusualingredientcalledzheergen,which is therootof thefishmint, Itsnamecomesfromitsflavour,which is definitely an acquired taste, Its a bit fishy and quite astringent, but Iloved it,Locals say thispale, spindly, crunchy rootwas theirnaturalpreventionagainstsevereacuterespiratorysyndrome,orSARS.Ifyoucantgetyourhandsonfishmintroot,usecooked,juliennedyoungbambooshootsorlotusstemsinstead.
INGREDIENTS
250g(9oz)firmtofu,drained
60ml(2floz/cup)vegetableoil
200g(7oz)fishmintroot(glossary),cutinto3cm(1inch)lengths
1handfulfishmintleaves(glossary)
1largehandfulmintleaves
1smallhandfulroughlychoppedcoriander(cilantro)
8garlicchives,roughlychopped
redcapsicum(pepper),finelysliced
DRESSING
2teaspoonsbrownsugar
1tablespoonChineseblackvinegar
1tablespoonslightsoysauce
teaspoonsesameoil
pinchofchilliflakes
2smallgarliccloves,finelychopped
2.5cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,finelysliced
1springonion(scallion),finelysliced
METHOD
Combinethedressingingredientsinamixingbowlandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Setasideandallowtheflavourstoinfusefor10minutes.
Meanwhile,cutthetofuintolargecubes.Heatthevegetableoilinasmallsaucepanandfrythetofuovermediumheatfor45minutes,turninguntilbrownedonallsides.
Removethetofuwithaslottedspoonandplaceinalargemixingbowl.Addtheremainingsaladingredientsandthedressingandtosswell.
Transfertoaplatterandserve.
CROSSINGTHEBRIDGENOODLESSERVES4
KunmingsmostrenowneddishhasitsoriginsinabeautifulChinesestory.Centuriesago,ascholarwouldgotoasmallislandtostudyfortheImperialexams,Everyday,hislovingwifewouldbringhimlunch,buttoreachhimshehadtocrossabridge,sohersoupswerealwayscold.Thenshecameupwithanidea!Sheslicedallthesoupingredientssuperthin,usedahugebowltoholdherpiping-hotbrothandpouredalayeroffatontop,totraptheheat, She would then carry the hot soup over the bridge, with all the ingredients onseparate plates,Onlywhen she reached her husband did she assemble the soup, and aseverythingwassofinelysliced,theingredientscookedveryquicklyinthesteamingbroth,Legendsaysherhusbanddidverywellinhisexams.
INGREDIENTS
cookedchicken,fromthechickenstock(seebelow)
100g(3oz)boneless,skinlesschickenbreast,slicedpaperthin
100g(3oz)skinlessporkfillet,slicedpaperthin
40g(1oz)porkkidney,peeled,trimmedandslicedpaperthin
50g(2oz)Chinesecuredpork(glossary)orjamn,finelysliced
100g(3oz)cleanedsquid,slicedpaperthin
1sheetofdriedtofuskin(glossary),soakedinwaterfor20minutes,thenfinelysliced
100g(3oz)freshblackfungus(woodears;glossary),sliced
1handfulPickledVegetables,optional,roughlychopped
2springonions(scallions),finelysliced
6babybokchoy(pakchoy)leaves,cutinto3cm(1inch)strips
4garlicchives,cutinto3cm(1inch)lengths
1smallhandfulchoppedcoriander(cilantro),plusextratogarnish
300g(10oz)freshroundChinesericenoodles
1quailegg
teaspoonseasalt
1tablespoonsoysauce
1teaspoonfinelyslicedfreshginger
CHICKENSTOCK
1kg(2lb3oz)wholechicken
3garliccloves
4springonions(scallions),whitepartonly,roughlychopped
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandsliced
METHOD
First,preparethechickenstock.Washthechickenthoroughlyundercoldrunningwater,beingsuretoremovealltracesofblood,gutsandfatfromthecavity.Placethechickeninastockpotwith3litres(102floz/12cups)waterandbringtotheboil.
Reducetheheattoaslowsimmerandskimoffanyimpurities.Continuetoskimuntilyouhaveremovedmostofthefat.Poundthegarlicandspringonionintoapasteusingamortarandpestle,thenaddtothepotwiththeginger.Cookforafurther2hours.Strainoffthestock,reservingthechickencarcass,andallowthestocktocool.Pouroffandreserve1litre(34floz/4cups)ofthestock;refrigeratetheremainingstockforupto3daysanduseinotherrecipes,orfreezeuntilrequired.
Finelyshredthemeatfromthechickencarcass,discardingtheskinandbones,andplaceonasmallplate.Arrangetheslicedmeats,squid,tofu,vegetables,herbsandnoodlesonseparatesmallplates.Cracktheeggintoasmallbowlandplaceontheservingtablewithallthefoodplates.
Bringthereservedstocktotheboilwiththesalt,soysauceandginger.Allowtoboilbriefly,asthebrothmustbeboilinghot.
Transferthebrothtoaverylargewarmednoodlebowlandbringtotheservingtable.
Quicklyaddtheeggtotheboilingbroth,followedbythemeats,squid,andthentheremainingingredients,addingthenoodleslast.
Combinewell,anddistributeamongindividualwarmedbowls.Garnishwithextracorianderandserve.
UYGHURSPICYBEEFSKEWERSMAKES12(SERVES4)
TheUyghurareoneofChinaslargestethnicminorities,InKunmingtheyareknownfortheirChinese-Muslimcuisineespeciallyfortheirbeefor lambskewers,cookedonthestreetsoverglowingcharcoal,Sadly,street food inKunming is fastdisappearing,as thelocalgovernmenthasbeencrackingdownonstreetvendors.However,IheardofacooknamedMrShwee,whose family has been servingbeef skewers for three generations, Ihadahardtimefindinghim:hehideshischarcoalgrilldownanarrowalley,outofpoliceview.Hisrecipeisassecretashislocation!Itriedmybesttoreplicatehismarinade,andIthinkImalmostthereMrShweegrillssome2000skewersaday,for3yuanperstick,making$700perday.Notbad,hey?
INGREDIENTS
1kg(2lb3oz)beefsirloin
125ml(4floz/cup)vegetableoil
1teaspoonchilliflakes
1teaspoongroundcumin
2lemons,cutintowedges
MARINADE
3teaspoonsseasalt
1teaspoonsweetpaprika
1teaspoongroundnutmeg
1teaspoongroundcoriander
1teaspoongroundsichuanpeppercorns
1teaspoongroundginger
1teaspoonchilliflakes
1teaspoongroundcumin
3garliccloves,finelychopped
60ml(2floz/cup)lightsoysauce
60ml(2floz/cup)vegetableoil
METHOD
Combinethemarinadeingredientsinabowlandmixwell.
Cutthebeefinto2.5cm(1inch)chunks,leavingonsomeofthefat.Placeinalargemixingbowl,addthemarinadeandmixuntilthebeefiswellcoated.Coverandmarinate
intherefrigeratorforatleast30minutes,orovernightforatastierresult.
Soak12bambooskewersincoldwaterfor20minutes.Heatabarbecuechargrillorchargrillpantomedium-highheat.
Threadthebeefontotheskewers.Chargrillfor3minutesoneachside,bastingthebeefwiththevegetableoiltogetsomeflamehappeningandimpartasmokyflavour,andsprinklingwiththechilliflakesandcumin.
Transfertoaplatterandservewithlemonwedges.
Dali&ShaxiThe rural town of Dali was settled by the Bai people 3000 years ago. About 300kilometresnorth-westofKunming,Dali is theeconomicandcultural centreof theDaliBaiAutonomousPrefecture,Thearea is surroundedbymountains to the east,west andsouth,withErhaiLake in its centre,Hereyouwill find25 ethnicminorities,whohavecreatedauniquecultureandcuisine.
Daliisfamousforitsricenoodles,whichhaveauniquestickytexture.Iarrangedtospendadaywithafamilywhohasbeenmakingricenoodlesforfourgenerations.IwasgreetedatthedoorofanoldwoodenhousebytheZhaofamily,wearingtheirtraditionalcolourfulBaigarbandpinkheadpieces.
Iarrivedintimetoseehugebasketsofsoakedricebeingsteamed.Thericeamixtureofjasmineandglutinousriceissteamedfor40minutes,restedandsteamedagain.Itisthenkneadedintoathickdough,rolledflat,thenhungonwoodenbeamsfor24hours.Thewholefamilythencutthenoodleswithlargecleavers.Theyweretrueartisans;IfeltlikeIhadsteppedbackintime.TheendresultwasthemostincrediblealdentenoodlesIhaveevertried.Ifonlywecouldgetsuchfreshhand-madericenoodlesathome.
Noodle-makingisnottheonlytraditioninDalidatingbackhundredsofyears.SittinginatinyboatlisteningtoBaifishermencommunicatingwithcormorants,tellingthebirdswhentodiveforfishandwhentocomeback,waslikewatchingtheatre,orevenamusical:thebirdscriesandtheirmastersvoicesmergingtogetherlikeawonderfulsong.
LocatedhalfwaybetweenDaliandLijiang,nestleddeepintheHimalayanfoothills,Shaxiishometoabeautifultraditionalwayoflifethatoffersaglimpseintoaforgottenera.Shaxiisacharmingsmalltownwithasun-drenched,fertileplainthatfollowsthegentleHeihuiRiver,alesser-knownbranchoftheMekong.
ElderBaiandYipeopleliveheresurroundedbycobbledstreets,spectacularancientarchitectureandimpressivecourtyardhomes.Theyoungergenerationshaveallmovedtothecities,soallyoucandoinShaxiisgoforshortwalks,relaxandprepareslowfood.Ireallyenjoyedlearningdishesfromtheelders:youcangleansomuchabouttheirculture,traditionsandfamilyvaluesfromtheirfood.
CLAYPOTFISHSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
GenghisKhansgrandsoncame toDaliandconquered theDaliKingdom.ThesepeoplebroughttheirownstyleoffoodtoDali,andthis700-year-oldsoupisaclassicexample,Itismuchmore savoury thanyour traditional spicy-sour-styleChinese soup, as it ismoremeatyandrichflavoursdominate, I reallyenjoyusingaclaypot,as itdevelopsflavourwithageandaddsanearthycharacter todishes, Ifyouareusinganewclaypot for thefirst time, submerge it in coldwater overnight before cooking in it, so it doesnt crackwhenplacedoverhighheat.
INGREDIENTS
2tablespoonspeanutoil
1teaspoonsichuanpeppercorns
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandjulienned
700g(1lb9oz)wholecarporsilverperch,cleanedandbutterflied
2Chinesecabbageleaves,cutinto3cm(1inch)widestrips
4050g(12oz)bundleofglassnoodles,soakedinwaterfor20minutes
20g(oz/1cup)driedblackfungus(woodears;glossary)
3freshshiitakemushrooms,sliced
40g(1oz/1cup)driedtofuskin(glossary),soakedinwaterfor20minutes,thenslicedquitefinely
1tablespoondriedshrimp(glossary)
10cm(4inch)pieceofChinesecuredpork(glossary),finelysliced
freshordrieddaylilybuds(glossary),togarnish,optional
METHOD
Addthepeanutoiltoahotfryingpan.Sautthesichuanpeppercornsandgingerovermedium-highheatuntilfragrant.
Placethefishskinsidedowninthepanandcookfor2minutes.Turnitoverandcookforafurther2minutes.
Placethecabbageina1litre(34floz/4cup)claypot,thentransferthepaningredientstotheclaypot.
Placetheclaypotonthestoveandpourinenoughwatertofillthepot.Bringtheliquidtotheboil,thenskimoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurface.
Addthenoodles,mushrooms,tofuskin,driedshrimpandpork.Reducetheheattolowandsimmergentlyfor30minutes.
Servegarnishedwithlilybuds,ifdesired.
STEAMEDFISHWITHFERMENTEDSOYABEANS&GLASSNOODLESSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
Idheardstoriesofanage-oldfishingtechnique,datingbackto960AD,ofBaiChinesefishermen training cormorants to dive into thewater to catch and retrieve fish. I couldhardlybelieve they still do this today. Itwas like theatre: the communication, trust andundividedattentionbetweenthefishermenandcormorantswasamazingtosee.When I finally succeeded in takinga fishoutof abirdsmouth, I decided to steam thewhole fish on the small canoe, with ten cormorants watching me like hawks anexperienceIwillneverforgetSteamingissuchasimple,clean,healthywayofcookingfish.Makesurethewaterisatarapidboilbeforecookingit.
INGREDIENTS
700g(1lb9oz)wholecarp,barramundiorsilverperch,cleaned
35g(1oz/cup)seasalt,forcoating
4050g(12oz)bundleofglassnoodles,soakedinwaterfor20minutes
2teaspoonsfermentedsoyabeans(glossary)
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandjulienned
4springonions(scallions),shredded
1longredchilli,sliced
2tablespoonspeanutoil
coriander(cilantro)leaves,togarnish
SAUCE
1tablespoonsugar
2tablespoonsshaoxingricewine(glossary)
60ml(2floz/cup)lightsoysauce
1tablespoonsesameoil
METHOD
Makethreelongdiagonalcutsinthethickestpartonbothsidesofthefish,Rubseasaltoverthefish,thenplaceitonaheatproofplatethatwillfitinsidealargesteamerbasket,Topwiththenoodles,soyabeansandginger,Setaside.
Half-fillasteamer,wokorlargesaucepanwithwaterandbringtoarapidboiloverhighheat.
Combinethesauceingredientsinasmallbowlandmixuntilthesugarhasdissolved,Pour
thesauceoverthefish.
Placethefishinasteamerbasket,thencoverandsetoverthepanofboilingwater,Steamfor1015minutes,oruntilthefishflakeseasilywhentestedwithafork,Scatterthespringonionandchillioverthefish.
Heatthepeanutoilinasmallsaucepantosmokinghot,Pouritoverthefish,scaldingthespringonionandchilliandreleasingafragrant,smoky,nuttyaroma,Garnishwithcorianderandserve.
DALIVEGETARIANRICENOODLESTIR-FRYSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
China inventednoodlesover4000yearsago,andwhenImet theZhaofamily inDali Iwasinnoodleheaven!Theyvebeenmakingricenoodlesforfourgenerations,butwhatmakestheirssouniqueisthattheyuseamixtureofjasminericeandwhiteglutinousrice,givingthenoodlesawonderfulaldentetexture.
INGREDIENTS
2tablespoonsGarlicWater(seeNote)
2tablespoonspeanutoil
2garliccloves,finelychopped
90g(3oz/2cups)slicedChinesecabbage
120g(4oz/1cups)beansprouts
8garlicchives,cutinto3cm(1inch)lengths
1tablespoonlightsoysauce
250g(9oz)freshroundChinesericenoodles
teaspoonVietnamesepickledgroundchillies(glossary)
2springonions(scallions),slicedonthediagonal
YUNNANCHILLIOIL
125ml(4floz/cup)peanutoil
2tablespoonschilliflakes
1tablespoonsesameoil
METHOD
Makethegarlicwateradayahead.Setaside.
Youcanalsomaketheyunnanchillioilaheadoftime.Heatthepeanutoilinawokuntilitalmostreachessmokingpoint.Turnofftheheatandallowtheoiltocoolforabout3minutes.Placethechilliflakesinaglassjar,thenpourinthehotoil,followedbythesesameoil.Allowtocoolslightlybeforesealing;donotstrainordiscardthechilli.Theoilwillkeepforuptoamonthstoredinacool,darkplaceandcanbeusedinothernoodlerecipes.
Heatawokorlargefryingpanuntilsmoking.Addthepeanutoilandsautthegarlicovermedium-highheatuntilfragrant.Nowaddthecabbage,beansproutsandgarlicchivesandstir-fryfor1minute.
Add1teaspoonoftheyunnanchillioil,thesoysauceandapinchofseasaltandstir-fry
forafurtherminute.Nextaddthenoodles,pickledgroundchillies,garlicwaterandhalfthespringonion.Stir-fryforanother3minutes.
Transfertoaplatterorindividualplates,garnishwiththeremainingspringonionandserve.
NOTE
Tomakegarlicwater,simplycombine1tablespoonchoppedgarlicand2tablespoonswaterinabowl.Coverandstandovernight,thenstrain.
LICHENSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
Shaxislandscapewassostunning,andtheairsocrisp,thatIpromptlyborrowedabicycleandcruisedaroundthecharmingoldtownandcountryside,Whattookmyeyeweretwoladies skilfully carving something from a tree, It was fresh lichen an astonishingpartnership between two very different organisms, fungus and alga, Lichen inhabit justabout any solid surface in less extreme climates, from rocks and walls to trees andconcrete,Afewareunattachedandblowaboutfreely.Onceknownasapeasantfood,lichenisnowadelicacy,Localstellmeitstheirsecrettolivingpasttheageof90years,Iamlichenthesoundofthat
INGREDIENTS
150g(5oz/2cups)freshlichenorfreshblackfungus(woodear;glossary),cutinhalf
2wholedriedChinesewhitefungus(glossary),soakedinwaterfor30minutes,thensliced
1smallhandfulroughlychoppedcoriander(cilantro)
DRESSING
1tablespoonbrownsugar
1tablespoonChineseredvinegar(glossary)
2tablespoonsChineseblackvinegar
60ml(2floz/cup)lightsoysauce
2teaspoonssesameoil
3garliccloves,finelychopped
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandfinelysliced
2springonions(scallions),finelysliced
teaspoonchilliflakes
METHOD
Combinethedressingingredientsinamixingbowlandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Setasideandallowtheflavourstoinfusefor10minutes.
Placetheremainingingredientsinalargemixingbowl.Addthedressingandtosswell.
Transfertoaplatterandserve.
LUCKYREDBRAISEDPORKBELLYSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
There is a very traditional banquet cooked in the charming town of Shaxi, called theEight Dish Banquet, which is only prepared on very special occasions, A town elderfoundanoriginalbanquetmenufrom90yearsagoandtalkedmethroughthedishes.Hetells me that the red braised pork belly was one of his favourites as it was not onlydelicious,but,being red in colour, alwaysbroughtgood luck, Ifyoucant find red ricegrains,youcanuse1tablespoonAnnattoOil(seeNote,oradashofredfoodcolouringinstead.
INGREDIENTS
1tablespoonredricegrains(hongqu;glossary)
1tablespoonshaoxingricewine(glossary)
2500g(1lb2oz)bonelessporkbelly,cutinto3cmx4cm(1inch1inch)pieces
2teaspoonssugar
5cm(2inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandfinelysliced
3blackcardamompods(glossary),bruised
coriander(cilantro)sprigs,togarnish
METHOD
Placethericegrainsinamortarandpoundintoafinepowder.Addthericewineandmixuntilwellcombined.
Placetheporkinalargemixingbowl.Addthericewinemixture,massagingtheliquidintotheskin.Allowtomarinateforatleast30minutes.
Transfertheporktoasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwater.Nowaddthesugar,ginger,cardamomandapinchofseasalt.Bringtotheboil,thenskimoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothesurface.
Coverwithalid,reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor3hours,oruntiltheporkistender.
Garnishwithcorianderandserve.
WILDMUSHROOMSWOK-TOSSEDWITHCUREDPORKSERVES46aspartofasharedmeal
Iwokeupsuper-early toattendthebustlingShaximarket,whichisonlyheldonFridaymornings,TheBaiandYipeoplewalkforhoursfromthemountainsandvalleys,bringinglivestock and fresh produce to sell, I was searching for the much-loved ox livermushroom, which is actually very similar to the great porcini mushroom, These wildmushroomshavetentimesmoreflavourthanregularbuttonmushrooms,andtheirnaturalglutamatesetsoffalovelyumamicharacterthefifthtaste.Ifyoucantobtaineitherofthesemushrooms,anassortmentoffreshAsianmushroomsenoki,shimeji,kingbrown,oyster,shiitakeisperfect.
INGREDIENTS
10cm(4inch)pieceofChinesecuredpork(glossary),or100g(3oz)jamn,cutinto5mm(inch)slices
4garliccloves,finelysliced
1greencapsicum(pepper),sliced
1redcapsicum(pepper),sliced
200g(7oz)freshoxlivermushroomsorporcinimushrooms,sliced
200g(7oz)freshshiitakemushrooms,sliced
2younggarlicshoots(glossary),cutinto5cm(2inch)lengths
2tablespoonsshaoxingricewine(glossary)
METHOD
Heatawokoverhighheat,withoutanyoil.Addtheporkandcookfor2minutes,toallowthefattorender.
Addthegarlicandcapsicumsandstir-fryfor1minute.Nowaddthemushroomsandgarlicshootsandstir-fryforafurther2minutes.
Addthericewineandapinchofseasalt.Stir-fryforanother2minutes,oruntilheatedthrough,thenserve.
LijiangLijiangisawell-preservedcityofethnicminorities,thelargestgroupbeingtheNaxi.Highonaplateau,2400metresabovesea level,Lijiang isborderedby the tree-coveredLionMountaininthewest,ElephantMountaininthenorth,andvastfertilefieldsinthesouth-east, Crystal-clear streams run through it, making Lijiang one of the most picturesquetownsinYunnanprovince,Withits800-yearhistoryLijiangblendsancienttraditionwithvibrantmodern living, Sure, I enjoyed the nightclubs, but what I lovedmost were theuniqueNaxidishesonoffer.
WhilewalkingthroughthemanynarrowcobbledstreetsofLijiang,IfoundacuteNaxirestaurantwithakitchenthatopenedoutontothefootpath.NaturallyIstuckmyheadin,anditwastherethatIlearnedofanastonishingdishcalled1000layerpork.Theporkbellywasmarinated,halfcooked,cooled,sliced,carefullylayeredintoabowlofpickledmustardgreensandthensteamedforhours,resultinginadishofincredibleflavouranddepth.
IcouldntleaveLijiangwithoutlearninghowtomakebaba,acrisp,flatbread,andastapleoftheNaxipeople.Ihadtriedtomakeitoncebefore,butcouldntgetthemultiplelayeringinthedoughthatmakesittrulyauthentic.HelpcameintheformofNaxigrandmotherAiyee.
WemetattheamazinglybeautifulBlackDragonPool,justoutsidetheoldtown.Itwaslikelookingatalivingpainting.UphighinthecloudsstoodJadeDragonSnowMountain,reflectingitsimageontothespringwaterbelow.Fromherewecollectedourspringwater,asAiyeesaiditisveryimportanttomakeyourbabafromspringwater,nottapwater.Backinhervillage,setamongthewheatfields,shetaughtmehowtomakesweetbaba.
JustoutsidethebustlingLijiangmarkets,Idiscoveredstallschargrillingwhatlookedlikebigballsofclay.Itwasadishcalledbeggarschicken,andofcoursetheresastorybehindit,whichgoeslikethisDuringtheQingdynasty,astarvingbeggarstoleachickenfromafeudallord.Hewantedtocookit,buthewasafraidthevillagerswouldsmellitbeingcookedandhewouldbecaught.Sohewrappedthechickeninalotusleafandsmothereditinmud,tokeepinthecookingsmells.Onceitwascooked,hesmashedopenthemudcasingandfoundthatthefeatherscamerightoffthechicken,exposingjuicy,tendermeatthatemittedanincrediblearoma.Theroastedchickenwassodeliciousthathedecidedtosellhiscreationtothevillagers.HehadunwittinglystartedoneofChinasgreatculinarytraditions.
CHARGRILLEDFISHWITHCRISPMINTSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
Lijiangsmarketwasthefirstbuildingintheentiretown,andhasbeenitsfocalpointforhundredsofyears,Theproduceisbothamazingandsurprising,andtheplacebuzzeswithenergy, I decided to cook this dish right in themiddle of themarket a bigmistake!Localsdemandedthat I firstcatchmyownfishwithmybarehands, thenkept laughingandpointingwhileIwasgrillingthefish,Itwasnerve-rackins,butfun.
INGREDIENTS
800g(1lb12oz)wholecarporbarramundi,cleaned
generouspinchofchilliflakes,totaste
2tablespoonspeanutoil
1teaspoonsichuanpeppercorns
teaspoonseasalt
10largewholedriedredchillies
2garliccloves,finelydiced
1younggarlicshoot(glossary),finelydiced
2springonions(scallions),sliced
2tablespoonsroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts
250ml(8floz/1cup)vegetableoil
20mintleaves
METHOD
Heatachargrillpanorbarbecuechargrilltomedium-high.Seasonthefishwithagenerouspinchofseasalt,freshlygroundblackpepperandchilliflakes.Rubthefishwith1tablespoonofthepeanutoil,thenchargrilloneachsidefor810minutes.
Meanwhile,dry-roastthesichuanpeppercornsandseasaltinaheavy-basedfryingpanovermedium-lowheatuntilthepeppercornsbecomearomatic.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoasmallbowltocoolalittle.
Heattheremainingpeanutoilinthesamepan,thenaddthedriedchilliesandcookfor1minute,oruntiltheybecomedarkerallover.Addthedicedgarlicandgarlicshootandstir-fryovermedium-highheatuntilslightlygolden;takecarenottoletthechilliesburn.
Nowaddthespringonion,peanutsandthedry-roastedsichuanpeppercornandsaltmixture.Stir-fryforanother30seconds,thenremovefromtheheatandsetaside.
Inasmallsaucepan,heatthevegetableoilto170C(325F),oruntilacubeofbread
droppedintotheoilbrownsin20seconds.Flash-frythemintleavesinsmallbatchesforafewseconds,justuntilcrispbutnotbrowned.Drainwellonpapertowels.
Oncethefishhasfinishedcooking,transferittoaplatter.Spoonthespiceandpeanutmixtureoverthetop,garnishwiththefriedmintleavesandserve.
LIJIANGCOLDNOODLESSERVES2
ItriedthiscoldnoodledishonthestreetsjustoutsidetheBlackDragonPoolsinLijiang.IfounditverysimilartoavermicellinoodledishfromVietnam,whichisprobablywhyIloveditsomuch.Thetexturesareincredible,andtheflavoursdeepwithcharacter.Inowkeepgarlicwater,sichuanpepperoilandyunnanchillioilinmypantry,soIcanwhipupthisdishinnotime!
INGREDIENTS
400g(14oz)cookedroundChinesericenoodles,atroomtemperature
Lebanese(short)cucumber,cutintomatchsticks
1smallhandfulbeansprouts
5garlicchives,cutinto4cm(1inch)lengths
4coriander(cilantro)stems,roughlychopped
1springonion(scallion),finelysliced
1tablespoonroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts
DRESSING
2teaspoonsbrownsugar
1tablespoonChineseredvinegar(glossary)
1tablespoonChineseblackvinegar
2tablespoonslightsoysauce
2teaspoonsGarlicWater(seeNote)
2teaspoonsYunnanChilliOil
2teaspoonsSichuanPepperOil(seeNote)
METHOD
Combinethedressingingredientsinamixingbowlandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Setasideandallowtheflavourstoinfusefor10minutes.
Placethenoodlesinabowl,alongwiththerestoftheingredients.Pourthedressingover,tosswellandserve.
NOTE
Tomakesichuanpepperoil,heat125ml(4floz/cup)peanutoilinawokuntilitalmostreachessmokingpoint.Turnofttheheatandallowtheailtocoolfor3minutes.Place2tablespoonssichuanpeppercornsinaglassjar,thenpourthehotoilintothejar,followedby1tablespoonsesameoil,Allowtocoolslightlybeforesealing;donotstrainordiscardthepeppercorns.Theoilwillkeepforuptoamonthstoredinacool,dark
place.
ONETHOUSANDLAYERPORKBELLYSERVES4
InthebackalleysofLijiangsoldtown,IstumbledacrossagemofarestaurantservingtraditionalNaxicuisine.Ithadagreatkitchen,whichopenedoutontothestreets,soyoucouldseethechefsinaction.Wok-burnerswereroaring,choppingboardsweredrumming,and steamers were busy slow-cooking this Naxi favourite. Although it doesnt literallyhave1000 layers of pork, this dishdoes look impressivewith itsmany layers of finelysliced pork belly. You can buy pickled mustard greens at your local Asian market invacuum-sealedbags;choosetheChinesevariety,whichhasabitofchillithroughit,Themustardgreensareessentialtothisdish,cuttingthroughtherichnessoftheporkbelly.
INGREDIENTS
500g(1lb2oz)bonelessporkbelly,skinscored
250g(9oz)pickledmustardgreens(glossary)
1tablespoonvegetableoil
coriander(cilantro)leaves,togarnish,optional
steamedjasminerice,toserve
MARINADE
2tablespoonslightsoysauce
1tablespoondarksoysauce
2tablespoonsshaoxingricewine(glossary)
3garliccloves,finelydiced
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandfinelysliced
2teaspoonsbrownsugar
METHOD
Combinethemarinadeingredientsinabowlandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Coattheporkwiththemarinade,thencoverandmarinateintherefrigeratorfor1hour.
Meanwhile,soakthepickledmustardgreensincoldwaterfor1hour,oruntilverywellchilledandfirm.Strainwellandslicefinely.Setaside.
Removetheporkfromthemarinade,reservingthemarinade.Brushoffanygarlicorgingerpiecesfromthesurfaceoftheporkandpattheporkdrywithpapertowels.
Heatadeep,heavy-basedfryingpanovermediumheat.Addthevegetableoil,thenplacetheporkskinsidedowninthepanandbrownfor4minutes.Turnoverandbrowntheothersideforafurther4minutes.
Pourjustenoughhotwaterintothepantocoverthepork.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor10minutes.
Nowsubmergetheporkbellyinanicebathandleavetocoolfor5minutesthiswillmakeitmucheasiertosliceitfinely.(Alternatively,youcancoolit,thencoverandplaceinthefreezerfor1hour.)
Slicetheporkasfinelyasyoucan,usingalargesharpknife.Arrangeeachsliceinaheatproofbowl,overlappingtheslicesneatly,withthefatendontop,creatinga1000layereffectacrossthebowlanduptheedges.
Arrangethemustardgreensontopofthelayeredpork,thenpourinthereservedmarinade.
Half-fillasteamer,wokorlargesaucepanwithwaterandbringtoarapidboiloverhighheat.Placethebowlofporkinasteamerbasket,thensetoverthepanofboilingwaterandcover.Steamfor1hours,replenishingthehotwaterasneededevery30minutesorso.
Removethebowlfromthesteamer.Placeaservingplateupsidedownoverthebowl,thenangleituntiltheliquidfromtheporkpoursout,catchingtheliquidinabowl.Allowtheporktocoolfor10minutes.
Withtheplatestillontopofthebowl,quicklyinvertthebowl,sothatthebowlisnowontopoftheservingplate.Removethebowlandpourtheliquidoverthepork.
Garnishwithcoriander,ifdesired,andservewithsteamedjasminerice.
TRADITIONALNAXISWEETBABAMAKES24pieces(SERVES46)
Ancient traders took this crisp, flaky flatbreadon their long tripsalong the TeaHorseTrail,asittravelledwellandsustainedthem.AstapleintheNaxidiet,babaiseatenwitheverything, Some are plain; others stuffedwith spring onions (scallions), pork or eggs;Iveeventriedbabasmearedwithpreservedbeancurd,Whiletheywerealldelicious,thissweetversion,taughttomebyalocalladynamedAiyee,istheoneIenjoyedmost,Aiyeesays it is essential to follow her folding tips, to create the much-needed multi-layeredtextureof thissweetbaba, It isalso important touse lard in this recipe,as itmakes thepastrylightandflaky.
INGREDIENTS
300g(10oz/2cups)plain(all-purpose)flour
teaspoonbicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)
200ml(7floz)sparklingspringwater
40g(1oz/cup)unsaltedroastedpeanuts
25g(1oz/cup)roastedwalnuts
2teaspoonsblacksesameseeds
1tablespooncaster(superfine)sugar
1tablespoonbrownsugar
250g(9oz/1cup)lard
METHOD
Combinetheflour,bicarbonateofsodaandwaterinabowlandmixuntilacoarsedoughforms.Kneadonalightlyflouredworksurfacetoasmoothdough,repeatedlyfoldingthedoughbackontoitselfasyouknead,toincorporateairintoit.Thefoldingtechniqueisessentialforababayouneedtofoldthedoughasyoukneadit,togetenoughairthroughit.Coverthedoughwithateatowel(dishtowel)andleavetorestfor10minutes.
Meanwhile,usingalargemortarandpestle,poundthepeanuts,walnutsandsesameseedstogetherintoafinepowder.Addthesugarsandmixwell.
Dividetheresteddoughintothreeevenlysizedballs.Usingarollingpin,rolleachportionouttoanovalabout30cm(12inches)long,12cm(4inches)wideand5mm(inch)thick.Nowspread1tablespoonofthelardontopofeachoval.
Startingfromthebottomofeachoval,andworkingwithonepieceatatime,tightlyrollupthedough,creatingnicefirmrollsabout15cm(6inches)wide.
Workingwithonepieceatatime,holdtherollateachend,thentwisttherolltightlyinoppositedirections,toformatight,twistedrope.Thishelpscreatemorelayersinthe
dough.Foldthetwistedrollinhalflengthways,thenusethepalmsofyourhandstoflattenthewholething.Holdingoneenddown,useyourotherhandtofurtherkneadandworkthedoughoutuntilitis1cminch)thickandperfectlyround.
Usingbothhands,andagainworkingwithoneroundatatime,cupeachroundinyourhandandworkitwithyourthumbtoformadeepcupshapeinyourpalm.Nowformapocketinthedoughportions,deepenoughtospooninageneroustablespoonofthenutmixture.Enclosethepocketbypinchingtheedgeswithyourfingersuntilitlookslikearoundbun.
Nowusetherollingpintorolleachbunintoaperfectroundshape,1cm(inch)thick.
Heatafryingpanovermediumheatandaddonethirdoftheremaininglard.Fryonebabafor23minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Repeatwiththeothertwobabarounds.
Sliceeachbabaintoeightpieces,asyouwouldapizza,andserve.
XishuangbannaXishuangbanna is in the southernmost reaches ofChina, borderingLaos andMyanmar.LikeitsneighboursinthegreaterMekongregion,ithasasubtropicalclimate.NicknamedtheKingdomof thePlants, it is formallyknownas Sipsongpanna,whichsoundsmoreThaithanChinese,andmeanstwelvethousandricefields.ItwashereIbegantogetataste of South-East Asia and saw the start of the mighty Mekong, which helped meunderstandChinasimportantroleinpreservingthegreatriver,HowChinatreatstheriveraffectssixothercountries,and60millionpeoplewhodependonitfortheirdailysurvival.
Xishuangbannaisalsothemostimportanttea-growingregioninChina,andhometothefamousandmuch-lovedPu-erhtea,whichspawnedacomplexseriesoftradingroutescriss-crossingChina,Tibet,Nepal,MyanmarandIndiaoversomeoftheworldshighestterrain.TheserouteswerecollectivelyknownastheTeaHorseTrail.
ThebestPu-erhteacomesfromanareacalledSixFamousMountains,aplaceofbreathtakingbeauty.Steeplyterracedteaplantationsstretchasfarastheeyecansee,workedbylocalladieswearingcolourfulgarbandbamboobasketsontheirbacks.Theirbright,contagioussmileshadmedivingintohelpwiththepicking.
SixFamousMountainshasbeenatea-growingregionformorethan2000years,andtheladiestoldmethatteawasntonlyusedfordrinkingtealeaveshavealsobeenusedinmedicine,andasmoney.Wediscusseddifferentfooddishesthattealeavesareusedin,mainlyfortheirfragrance.IimmediatelythoughtofasweetsnackmygrandmotherusedtomakewhenIwasakidstickysesame-coatedriceballs,filledwithcaramelisedsugarcaneandcookedinateabroth.Ijusthadtocookitfortheladies.
Iputmyteabrothontheboil,butsuddenlytorrentialrainbeganbucketingdown.Oursmallumbrellaswerenomatchfortheelementsandwithinsecondsmydumplingdoughwasdrownedinrainwater,andmyback-upriceflourwasabsolutelysoaked.Wetookcoverinagrasshutamongtheteafields,huddlingtogethertokeepwarmuntiltherainstopped.Thenwetriedagain.Lookingback,itwashilariousandlotsoffun.
CHARGRILLEDLEMONGRASSTILAPIASERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
WhenIarrivedinXishuangbanna,IwassurprisedathowmuchitresemblesThailand.Itwas hot, humid and tropical, and I noticed lemongrass was abundant in this area,Throughout themarkets, street-food stallswould be chargrilling this aromatic fish dish,whichgotmehookedandmademecurioustotryitoutformyself,Itmaybedifficulttofindtheuppergreenlongleavesofthelemongrasstotiethefishwith,ifyoudontactuallygrowityourselfinthegarden,Ifso,justpeeleachouterlayerofthelemongrassstemuntilyouhaveenoughtocoverthechargrill,thencookyourfishontopofthat.
INGREDIENTS
2wholelemongrassstems
1springonion(scallion),finelysliced
1garlicclove,finelychopped
longredchilli,finelysliced
2.5cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandfinelychopped
1tablespoonlightsoysauce
600g(1lb5oz)wholetilapiaorsnapper,cleaned
1tablespoonvegetableoil
METHOD
Cutoffthelonggreenstemsofthelemongrass,thencutdownalongthestemstoseparatetheleaves.Soaktheleavesinalargebowlofwarmwaterfor20minutestosoftenthemalittle.
Meanwhile,finelydicethewhiteendsofthelemongrass,thenplaceinamixingbowlwiththespringonion,garlic,chilli,gingerandsoysauce.Mixwellandsetaside.
Laythefishonachoppingboard.Usingasharpfilletingknife,startfromtheheadendofthefishandcreateafilletbyslicingdownfromthespinetothebelly,butdontcutthefilletoffthebodyjustleaveitlyingopen,andstillattachedtothebonealongthebelly.
Nowspreadthelemongrassmixtureovertheexposedpartofthefillet,thenclosethefishbackup.Tiethereservedlemongrassstemsaroundthefishtokeepitclosed,orsecuretheopeningwithtoothpicks.
Heatabarbecuechargrillorchargrillpantomedium-high.Brushthefishwiththevegetableoil,thenchargrillfor10minutesoneachside,oruntilthefleshflakeseasilywhentestedwithafork.Cutawaythelemongrassleavesandserve.
CHICKEN&HERBSWRAPPEDINBANANALEAFSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
OriginallyfromThailandandLaos,theDaiethnicminoritysettledalongthebanksoftheMekonginXishuangbanna,WalkingthroughtheirvillageInoticedshinygoldentemples,monks in orange robes and tallwooden stilt homes, just like inThailand,So itwas nosurprisethelocalfoodhadastrongThaiinfluence.If you cant find fresh acacia herb (cha-om), you can buy it frozen at your local Thaimarket,Dontbeputoffby itspungent smell:oncecooked, it is aromatic, andadds somuchdepth.Thisdishisperfectwhenyourefeelingalittleundertheweather,asthemixedfreshherbshavegreatmedicinalqualities.
INGREDIENTS
300g(10oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,minced(ground)
2garliccloves,finelychopped
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandfinelysliced
2tablespoonssoysauce
4freshorfrozenacaciaherb(cha-om)stems(glossary),roughlychopped
10Thaibasilleaves
1lemongrassstem,whitepartonly,finelychopped
2springonions(scallions),sliced
3smallwholeredchillies
3smallwholegreenchillies
5freshbetelleaves(glossary),finelysliced
5saw-toothcoriander(cilantro)leaves(glossary),sliced
1tablespoonvegetableoil
pinchofcornflour(cornstarch)
2bananaleaves,eachabout60cm(24inches)long,centralribremoved
StickyRice,toserve
METHOD
Combinealltheingredients,exceptthebananaleavesandstickyrice,inalargemixingbowl.Addagenerouspinchofseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper.Mixwell,thenallowtheflavourstoinfusefor15minutes.
Meanwhile,heatabarbecuechargrillorchargrillpantomedium-high.Placethebanana
leavesonthechargrillforaminuteoneachside,tosoftenthemandmakethemeasiertoworkwith.
Nowplaceoneleaf,shinysidedown,verticallyonyourworksurface.Placetheotherleaf,shinysidedown,horizontallyacrossthemiddleofthefirstleaftoformacross.
Nowplacethechickenmixtureinthemiddleoftheleaves.Flattenthefillingouttoforma20cm(8inch)square.Foldtheleavesup,onesideatatime,overthefilling,toformonebigsecureparcel.
Placetheparcelonthechargrill,seamsidedown.Cookfor15minutesoneachside.
Cuttheleavesopenandservethemixturewithstickyrice.
TEA-INFUSEDSTICKYSESAMEDUMPLINGSMAKES12
Tea formed the basis of an important and complex series of trading routes that criss-crossed south-westChina, connecting the country to Tibet,Nepal,Myanmar and India.Crossingsomeofthehighestterrainintheworld,theserouteswerecollectivelyknownasthe TeaHorseTrail,Green tea imparts agreat fragrance to these sweet, sticky, chewydumplings.AsIwasmakingthemamongtheteafields,itbeganbucketingwithrain,soIthought I might as well collect the rainwater for my dumpling skins. They turned outperfect.
INGREDIENTS
75g(2oz)glutinousriceflour
35g(1oz)riceflour
teaspoonsalt
20g(oz)darkpalmsugar(jaggery),choppedintosmallpieces
2tablespoonsgreentealeaves
teaspoonwhitesesameseeds,toasted
teaspoonblacksesameseeds,toasted
METHOD
Inamixingbowl,combinethericefloursandthesalt.Add100ml(3floz)waterandstirwithaspoonuntilthemixtureiswellcombinedandcomestogetherasastickybutsmoothdough.
Dividethedoughinto12equalportions.Rolleachportionintoasmallball.
Workingwithoneportionatatime,pushoneachonewithyourthumbtoformasmallhollowinthecentre.Placeteaspoonofthepalmsugarineachone.Sealthehollowbysqueezingthedoughtogetheroverit,thengentlyrolleachdumplingintoaneatballshapeagain,pinchingtosealwell.Placeonplasticwrapsotheydontsticktotheworksurface.
Bringalargesaucepanofwatertotheboilandaddthetealeaves.Workingintwobatches,boilthedumplingsfor6minutes,oruntiltheyrisetothesurface.
Removewithaslottedspoon,allowingthewatertodrainoff,andplacethedumplingsstraightontoaservingplatter.
Sprinklewiththesesameseedsandservehot.
MYANMARYANGONTOKENGTUNG
MyanmarisAsiashiddengem,mostpeoplestillknowitasBurma,butithasbeenmorethan20yearssincethecountrysnamechanged,Despitethepoliticalattentionthisnationhasreceived,nothingpreparedmeforwhatIfound.Tocall it a secretparadisewouldprobablybe toomuch,but the respect thesegenerouspeoplehaveforeachother,theirsenseofcommunityandtheirmoralstandardsmovedmetotearsonmorethanoneoccasion,Inmanyways,lifeinMyanmariswhatIimaginelifewaslikealongtimeago.
WhenIfirsttoldpeopleIwasgoingtoMyanmar,andwouldbelookingspecificallyatitsregionalfoods,Iwassurprisedathowmanyofthemwarnedmeagainstit.Theysaidthefoodwasterrible,thatitalltastedthesameabitlikeIndianfoodbutlessinteresting.
IwasastoundedthatthefoodofacountrynestledbetweenChina,Thailand,India,BangladeshandLaoswouldnothavebeeninfluencedbyitsneighbours,orhavedevelopeditsownexcitingcuisine,MyapprehensiondisappearedthefirsttimeItriedthenationaldish,mohinga.
Mohingaisadelicioussoupofgreattextureandflavour,suitedtoanytimeoftheday,ItwasjustthefirstofsomanydishesthatIwasofferedandcametolove.
Wewereamazedbythegenerousnatureofthelocalpeople.EveryoneIspoketowantedtheinternationalcommunitytorecognisethem,tovisitandbringnewopportunitiestothecountry.ThegroupItravelledwithweretheveryfirstinternationaltelevisioncrewtovisitMyanmarwithpermissiontofilmanddocumentthepeopleslives,basedontheirfoodandtraditions.
Myanmarisbestknownforitspoliticalunrestanditsinternationalboycotts,butIwasnottheretolookatthesethings;Iwastheretoexperiencethepeople,thelandscape,thefoodand,tomysurprise,somereallygoodlocalwine!
Basedonallthesethings,MyanmarisoneofmyfavouriteSouth-EastAsiancountries.
IstartedmytripintheformercapitalYangon,whereIexploredthealmostendlessstreetsfilledwithbusymarketsandroadsidevendors,beforeheadingintotheShanstate,whereIdiscoveredmyfavouriteShandish,tofunwe,ontheshoresofInleLake.Next,Itravellednortheast,stoppingatKengtung,aquiet,picturesquetownsurroundedbyrustichilltribevillagesandancientBuddhistmonasteries.
NeverhaveIvisitedacountrywherethelocalsweresowarmandinviting.Peoplewouldsay,againandagain,Youaremyguest,please,wearesohonouredtohaveyou.TaketheheartofMyanmartotheworld,andletthemcometovisitus.
YangonVisitingYangon, the former capital ofMyanmar, is an experience like noother,Beforeindependencein1948,thecountrywasconsideredaprovinceofBritishIndia,ThecityisacombinationofBritish,Myanmar,ChineseandIndianinfluences,andisknownfor itscolonialarchitecture,YangonishometotheShwedagonPagoda,built2500yearsagotoenshrine eight strands ofBuddhas hair, It remains an important pilgrimage site for theMyanmar people, and for Buddhists from around the world, The spirit of Yangon isundeniablyin itscolourful, livelystreets, filledwithmarkets,streetfoodandvendorsofeverykind.
WheneverIvisitanewcountry,myfirstpointofcall,todiscoverthecuisineandculture,isalwaysthelocalmarkets.InmyfirstthreeminutesinYangonIlearntthreenewthings:bananatrunksareusedincooking;sandalwoodisusedtoprotecttheskinfromthesun;andMyanmarsnationaldishismohinga.Itriedmohingaforthefirsttimeandfellinlovewithitimmediately.Itsflavourandtexturewasfartoocomplexformetobeabletopinpointeveryingredient,soIgrabbedmybananatrunkandsetofftomeetKin-Kin,amohingaspecialist.
IconnectedinstantlywithKin-Kinitwaslikehangingoutwithmygreat-auntie.Wetalkedoffood,ingredients,flavours,aromas,cookingtechniques,traditionsandherloveforMyanmar.Illneverforgetherwordsasshespoonedthebrightyellowturmericpowderintothesizzlingpan:MyanmaristheGoldenLand.
Withtheintricaciesofthenationaldishundermybelt,ImademywaytoShwedagon,aspectacularilluminatedgoldenpagodastandingonahilloverlookingthecity.LocallegendsaysitwasbuiltduringthetimeoftheBuddha.AsIentereditssacredgrounds,Iinstantlyfeltitsspiritualenergy.Peoplecomefromalloverthecountrytoworship,withmanydonatingmoneyorgoldtothetemple.Itstipisencrustedwithover7000diamondsandrubies,anditwasbuiltfrommorethan21,000solidgoldbars.
WhatIloveaboutYangonisthatinthecentreoftownthereisaBuddhisttemple,sittingacrosstheroadfromaCatholicchurch,whichisnextdoortoaMuslimmosquealllivingandworshippinginharmony.Acityofsomanydifferentculturesandbeliefsmeanstherearealsomanyfoodstyles.IfoundafamilymakingChineseeggnoodles,astreetstallgrillingroti,ateashoppouringblackteawithcondensedmilk,afactorymakingpopiahskinsandbusyeateriesservingspicycurries.
Rarelyarefilmcrewsgrantedaccessintothisintriguingcity.Wefeltweweredefinitelydiscoveringtheunknown.
CHARGRILLEDEGGPLANT&PRAWNSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
The kingly eggplant is actually a fruit part of the nightshade family, along withtomatoes,potatoes,capsicum(peppers)andtobacco.HereIuseJapaneseeggplantsas theyareskinny, longandhavethinskin,makingthemperfectforchargrilling.Thecookedfleshbecomesmoistandcreamyandtakesonalovelydeepsmokiness,whichismyfavouritecharacterofthisdish.WhenIcookedthisrecipeonthestreetsofYangon,allthelocalfood-stallownersofferedto give up their chargrill barbecue forme. I couldnt accept, as itmeant they couldntoperatetheirownstall.Buttheywereadamantonhelping,soofftheywentandbroughtbacktheirfamilybarbecuefromhome!ThepeopleofMyanmarwouldhavetobeamongthemostgenerousintheworld.
INGREDIENTS
4Japaneseeggplants(aubergines)
2redAsianshallots,finelysliced
1handfulcoriander(cilantro),torn
1tablespoonGarlicOil(seeNote)
1tablespoonlightsoysauce
juiceoflime
1teaspoonsesameseeds,toasted
1teaspoonFriedGarlic(seeNote)
1teaspoonFriedRedAsianShallots(seeNote)
6cookedtigerprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined
2teaspoonsroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts
METHOD
Pierceeacheggplantseveraltimesusingasharpknife,topreventthemburstingonthegrill.Heatabarbecuechargrillorchargrillpantomedium.
Chargrilltheeggplantsfor10minutes,oruntilcharredalloverandsofttotouch,turningoften.
Placetheeggplantsundercoldslowrunningwaterandpeeloffanddiscardthecharredskin.
Nowslicetheeggplantsinto2cm(inch)piecesandplaceinamixingbowl.Addtheremainingingredients,reservinghalfthepeanutsasagarnish.Addapinchofseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperandcombinewell.
Transfertoaservingbowlandarrangeafewoftheprawnsontop.Sprinklewiththeremainingpeanutsandserve.
VEGETABLESPRINGROLLSMAKES12(SERVES4)
Walkingdown17thStreetinYangonIstumbledacrossakitchenwithsixsweatyyoungcooksmakingpopiahskins tromrice flourandwater,Popiah (kawpyant)means thincrepe,Originating inChina, thisdishmade itsway throughMalaysiaandSingapore toMyanmar,Itwasincredibletowatchthegraceandskillofthosecooks;theymadeitlooksoeasy,WhenIgaveitagoIendedupsplatteredwithbatter!Ifmakingthepopiahskinsat home, try to get hold of a thin, non-stick crepe pan, to make the crepes as thin aspossible.
INGREDIENTS
1tablespoonpeanutoil
1garlicclove,finelychopped
75g(2oz)beansprouts
65g(2oz/cup)grateddaikonradish
1smallcarrot,grated
50g(2oz)youngfreshortinnedbambooshoots,finelysliced
75g(2oz/1cup)finelyshreddedChinesecabbage
25g(oz)glassnoodles,soakedinhotwaterfor20minutes,thendrained
60g(2oz/cup)finelyslicedAsiancelery(glossary)
1smallspringonion(scallion),finelysliced
50g(2oz)friedtofupuffs,finelysliced
teaspoonseasalt
teaspoonsugar
1tablespoonlightsoysauce
12butterlettuceleaves
12popiahskins(seerecipebelow,orusefrozenones)
1tablespoonsFriedGarlic(seeNote)
1tablespoonsFriedRedAsianShallots(seeNote)
1tablespoonschoppedpeanuts
Chinese-stylechillisauce,fordipping
POPIAHSKINS
500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
2teaspoonsseasalt
METHOD
Tomakethepopiahskins,useanelectricmixerwithapaddleattachmenttobeattheflour,saltand500ml(17floz/2cups)wateronmedium-highspeedfor30minutes.Thedoughwillbereadywhenitissmooth,rubberyandcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Nowkneadthedoughbyhand,byrepeatedlyliftingitupandslammingitbackdownintothebowluntilitstartstoholdtogetherinropes.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast30minutes.
Meanwhile,heatawokovermedium-highheat.Addthepeanutoilandsautthegarlicfor1minute,oruntilfragrant.Addthebeansprouts,daikon,carrot,bambooshoots,cabbageandnoodlesandstir-fryfor2minutes.Nowaddthecelery,springonionandtofuandstir-fryforafurtherminute.Seasonwiththesalt,sugarandsoysauceandstir-fryfor1minutemore.Removethemixturefromthewokandleavetocoolfor5minutes.
Dividethedoughintoaboutfivesmallbatchesforeasyhandling.Heata26cm(10inch)non-stickcrepepanovermediumheat.Holdthedoughwithonehandandsmearitoverthehotpaninacircularmotion,onlyjustcoveringthesurfaceofthepan.Thedoughshouldbeextremelythin,andbarelybutevenlycoveringthebaseofthepan.Cookfor1minute,oruntiltheedgeofthecrepestartstocurlup.Usingyourotherhand,carefullypeeltheskinfromthepanandplaceitonaplate.Continuemakingmoreskinsuntilthedoughisfinished.(Anyunusedsheetscanbefrozen.)
Toassembletherolls,placealettuceleafonapopiahskin,thenplacealittlevegetablemixturelengthwaysoverthelettuce.Addasprinkleoffriedgarlic,friedshallotsandpeanuts.Rollthebottomup,thenfoldtheleftandrightsidesin,creatinganenvelope.Nowkeeprollingup,intoanicetightroll.Repeatwiththeremainingingredients.
Sliceeachrollintothirdsandservewithchillisauce.
KINGPRAWN&TOMATOCURRYSERVES4
MyanmarcuisinehasastrongIndianinfluence,evidentinthevarietiesofamazingcurriesonoffer,However theMyanmarcurryhasdeveloped itsownidentity; it isnotasspicy,heavyorrichasa typical Indiancurry,Thisdish isaperfectexampleof the lighterandmore delicateMyanmar style of curry.When cooking your curry paste,make sure yougiveittimetoslowlycaramelise,InMyanmarthisprocessiscalledsipyan,meaningtoallowtheoilstoreturn,ThisprocessisessentialinMyanmarcooking.
INGREDIENTS
8rawjumbokingprawns(shrimp),peeledanddeveined,leavingtheheadandtailintact
largepinchofgroundturmeric
largepinchofseasalt
1tablespoonfishsauce
4ripetomatoes,sliced
1teaspoonsugar
teaspoonsweetpaprika
coriander(cilantro)leaves,togarnish
SPICEPASTE
5redAsianshallots,roughlychopped
3garliccloves,peeled
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshgalangal,peeledandsliced
3driedchillies,soakedinhotwaterfor10minutes,thendrained
60ml(2floz/cup)peanutoil
2teaspoonsgroundturmeric
METHOD
Coattheprawnswiththeturmeric,saltand2teaspoonsofthefishsauce.Leavetomarinatefor10minutes.
Tomakethespicepaste,poundtheshallot,garlic,galangalandchilliesintoafinepasteusingalargemortarandpestle,orinafoodprocessor.
Heatthepeanutoilinawokorsaucepanoververylowheat.Addthespicepasteandturmericandsautfor15minutes,oruntilslightlycaramelised.
Stirinthetomatoes,sugar,paprika,remainingfishsauceand125ml(4floz/cup)water.
Simmerfor10minutes,oruntilthesauceisthickandthetomatoeshavebrokendown.
Addtheprawnsandcookfor2minutesoneachside.Garnishwithcorianderandserve.
MOHINGASERVES4
Mohingatranslatesasasoupsnack.ThisnoodlesoupisMyanmarsbelovednationaldish.Itisservedonthestreets,inthemarkets,andeveninfinerestaurants,TheMyanmaradoreitasmuchastheJapaneseloveramenandtheVietnameselovepho,Thisintricate,complexdishhasmanylayersofflavoursandtextures,soitneedssometimetocreate,butitisdefinitelyworthit.NowIdounderstanditmaybedifficulttogetbananatrunkheartfromyour localAsianstore, soyoucanuse finelysliced rawor tinnedbananablossominsteadthereisnoneedtoboilitbeforeusing.
INGREDIENTS
100g(3oz)ricevermicellinoodles
2hard-boiledeggs,halved
100g(3oz)boiledbananatrunkheart(glossary),sliced,optional
4coriander(cilantro)sprigs,togarnish
4snake(yard-long)beans,finelysliced
chilliflakes,forsprinkling
limewedges,toserve
BROTH
1kg(2lb3oz)wholecatfishorsilverperch,cleaned
1lemongrassstem,bruised
2garliccloves,bashed
1teaspoongroundturmeric
3tablespoonstinnedchickpeas,mashed
85g(3oz/cup)ToastedRicePowder(seeNote)
8redAsianshallots,peeled
80ml(2floz/cup)fishsauce
SPICEPASTE
3lemongrassstems,whitepartonly,finelysliced
4wholedriedchillies,soakedinboilingwaterfor10minutes,thendrained
4redAsianshallots,diced
4garliccloves,diced
2cm(inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandfinelysliced
125ml(4floz/cup)peanutoil
2teaspoonsshrimppaste
1teaspoongroundturmeric
1teaspoonsweetpaprika
METHOD
Tomakethebroth,placethewholefishinalargesaucepanwiththelemongrass,garlicandturmeric.Addenoughcoldwatertocoverthefishandbringtotheboil.Skimoffanyimpurities,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor20minutes.Strainthebrothandreserveit.Removethefishmeatfromthebones,discardingtheskinandbones.
Meanwhile,makeastartonyourspicepaste.Poundthelemongrass,wholedriedchillies,shallot,garlicandgingerintoasmoothpasteusingalargemortarandpestle,orinafoodprocessor.
Heatthepeanutoilinasaucepanoverlowheat.Addthespicemixtureandsautfor20minutes,oruntilslightlycaramelised.Stirintheshrimppaste,turmericandpaprika.Nowaddtheflakedfish,mixinggentlyuntilthefishiswellcoated.Cookoverlowheatforafurther5minutes,toallowtheflavourstoinfuse.
Returnthebrothtothelargesaucepan.Addthefishmixture,mashedchickpeas,ricepowder,shallots,fishsauceandapinchofseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper.Stirtocombine,thensimmerfor30minutes.
Meanwhile,cookthenoodlesinasaucepanofboilingwaterfor2minutes,thenremovethepanfromtheheatandstandthenoodlesinthewaterfor5minutes.Drainwell,rinseundercoldwater,thendrainwellagain.
Addtheboiledeggstothebroth,withthebananatrunk,ifusing.
Dividethenoodlesamongfourbowls,thenladlethebrothoverthenoodles.Garnishwiththecoriander,snakebeansandchilliflakesandservewithlimewedges.
InleLakeInleLakealong,hotdustybustripnortheastofYangonisinMyanmarslargeststate,calledShan.Ninemajorethnicgroupscallthisregionhome,includingtheShantribe,thesecondlargestinthecountry,Thepeopleherehavelongbeenknownfortheirpoliticalandculturalindependence.Thelakeitselfishuge,coveringabout160squarekilometres,butitwasnt until a boat trip on the lake that I really started to appreciate the areas naturalbeauty.
FortheShanpeople,thelakeistheirhome.Canalsaretheirroads,canoesaretheirtransport,andtheirbackyardsarefloatinggardens.Thiswateryenvironmentliterallyshapestheirvillagelifestyles.
MostofthepeopleonInleLakegrowtomatoesabout61,000tonneseveryyear.Theydontonlypickredtomatoes;localsloveusingthegreenonesrawinasaladwithchilli,coriander(cilantro)andblacksesameseeds.Theirgreentomatoesarecrisp,slightlytartandyetalsosweet.Afterwards,backinSydney,Imadethesaladwithgreenheirloomtomatoesandeveryonelovedit.
TheotherShandishthatwowedmewastofunoodles.IheardofthisunusualregionalspecialtybackinYangon,andwastoldIhadtotryitduringmyvisit.MisuuBorit,owneroftheInlePrincessResort,kindlyinvitedustoherfamilyhometocookthismuch-loveddishwithhermother.
Whenmyboatarrivedatherfloatingstilthome,Iwasgreetedbythewholeextendedfamily.Thereweregreat-aunties,uncles,cousins,nephews,nieces,grandchildren,in-laws,andeventheheadcheffromtheresort,Nwe-Oo.Sheshowedmeahugebucketofchickpeassoakinginwater.Thisiswhatwemakethetofufrom,shesaid.Chickpeasnotsoyabeans.
Afterwestrainedthechickpeas,Isatonthetimberfloorwithfourfamilymembersgrindingthesoftenedchickpeasinoldstonemills.Wethentiedthickropetothebeamsontheroof,suspendedalargewoodenframeandtiedmuslin(cheesecloth)toit,makinganenormousstrainertodrainthechickpealiquid.Wecookedtheliquidonlowheatuntilitthickened,thenaddedturmeric,chicken,bokchoy(pakchoy),ricenoodlesandbeansproutsandfinisheditwithalovelysugarcanesyrup.Thetofuhadatexturelikecustard,andwhencombinedwiththesilkyricenoodlesitwasunlikeanyothernoodledishIhadevertried.
InleLakeissuchaspecialplace.Thepeopleareamongthefriendliestintheworld.ItisaplacewhereImademanylovelyfriends,andoneIwillreturntosoon
INLELAKEGREENTOMATOSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
InleLakesmainsourcesofincomearefishingandgrowingtomatoes.Itwasincredibletosee how locals actually grow these tomatoes; they are all grown onwater, lined up inrows, just like winemakers grow their grape vines. Covering about 7000 acres, thesefloating farms produce some 61,000 tonnes of tomatoes each year! Im using greentomatoesinthissaladasIlovetheircrunchytextureandmild,sweet,tangyflavour.Dontgoforyounggreentomatoes;choosematuregreenones.
INGREDIENTS
5greentomatoes,sliced
3redAsianshallots,sliced
1handfulslicedcoriander(cilantro)
2teaspoonsroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts
2teaspoonsgroundblacksesameseeds
teaspoonchilliflakes
3teaspoonsGarlicOil(seeNote)
TOGARNISH
1redchilli,sliced
coriander(cilantro)sprigs
teaspoonFriedGarlic(seeNote)
METHOD
Inabowl,combinethetomato,shallot,coriander,peanuts,sesameseeds,chilliflakes,garlicoilandapinchofseasalt.Mixwell.
Garnishwiththechilliandcoriander,sprinklewiththefriedgarlicandserveimmediately.
NOTE
Tomakefriedgarlicandgarlicoil,pour250ml(9floz/1cup)vegetableoilintoawokandheatto180C(350F),oruntilacubeofbreaddroppedintotheoilbrownsin15seconds.Add6finelychoppedgarlicclovesandfryuntilgoldenbecarefulnottoovercookthegarlic,asitwillkeepcookingonceitisremovedfromtheheat.Strainthegarlicthroughametalsieveandplaceonpapertowelstodry.Storethefriedgarlicinanairtightcontainerforupto4days;thisrecipemakesabout2tablespoons.Reservethegarlic-flavouredoiltouseinsalads;itwillkeepforupto2weeksifstoredinacoolplace.
CRISPSPRINGONIONFRITTERSMAKES10
ThisisthetastiestShansnack,myabsolutefavourite,Itistheperfectdrinkingdishorasthe ladies inMyanmar call it, a gossipingdish,The fillingmay feel a littlemoist andloose, but itwill all come together and crisp up as you deep-fry it. Traditionally, thesefrittersarewrappedupinprettylotusflowersanddippedinthetamarindsauce,butbetelleavesworkwelltoo.
INGREDIENTS
500ml(17floz/2cups)peanutoil,fordeep-frying
10lotusflowersorfreshbetelleaves(glossary)
TAMARINDDIPPINGSAUCE
125ml(4floz/cup)TamarindWater(seeNote)
2teaspoonssugar
2teaspoonsfishsauce
2cm(inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandpounded
2smallgarliccloves,peeledandpounded
teaspoonchilliflakes
2tablespoonschoppedcoriander(cilantro)
FRITTERS
10springonions(scallions)
1ripetomato,sliced
1redAsianshallot,finelysliced
2cm(inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandpounded
2garliccloves,peeledandpounded
1teaspoonhotpaprika
1teaspoonseasalt
90g(3oz/cup)riceflour
45g(1oz/cup)glutinousriceflour
teaspoonbakingpowder
125ml(4floz/cup)beer
METHOD
Putthedippingsauceingredientsinabowlandmixuntilwellcombined.Setasideuntilreadytoserve.
Tomakethefritters,cutthegreenpartsofthespringonioninto3cm(1inch)lengthsandfinelyslicethewhiteends.Placeinabowlwiththetomato,shallot,ginger,garlic,paprikaandsalt.Addthericefloursandbakingpowderandmixtocombine.Slowlystirinthebeer,addingjustenoughsothateverythingstickstogether.
Heatthepeanutoilinawokoverhighheat;youcantelltheoilishotenoughwhenyoudropinabreadcrumbanditstartstocook.
Dividethefrittermixtureinto10evenportions,clumpingeachtogethertoformafritterabout56cm(2-1inches)across.Addthemtothehotoil,inbatchesifnecessary,andfryfor23minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Drainbrieflyonpapertowels.
Wrapthefritterswithalotusflowerorbetelleafandservewiththedippingsauce.Enjoywithbeer.
NOTE
Tomaketamarindwater,soak100g(3oz)tamarindpulpin400ml(13floz)boilingwater.Breakitupalittlewithawhisk,thenleaveuntilcoolenoughtohandleUsingyourhands,breakthemixtureintoathickpaste,Passthemixturethroughasieve;youshouldgetabout375ml(12floz/1cups)tamarindwater.
INLESTUFFEDFISHSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
Iwas introduced to thisdishbyachef from theKarenethnicminoritygroup,or LongNeck people. Nwe-Oo was so proud of her cuisine and passionate about sharing thebeautyofShancooking.IspentmanydaysinherkitchenatInlePrincessResort,learningthesecretsoftraditionalMyanmar cooking. If only the whole world were as kind-hearted and generous as thepeopleofMyanmar.
INGREDIENTS
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandchopped
3garliccloves,chopped
500g(1lb2oz)wholecarporbarramundi,cleaned
1teaspoonlightsoysauce
teaspoonseasalt
60ml(2floz/cup)peanutoil
125ml(4floz/cup)tomatopassata(puredtomatoes)
teaspoongroundturmeric
1teaspoonsweetpaprika
2springonions(scallions),sliced
1largetomato,diced
vegetableoil,fordeep-frying
2coriander(cilantro)sprigs
METHOD
Usingamortarandpestle,poundthegingerandgarlictoapaste,thensetaside.
Laythefishflatonachoppingboard.Usingasharpknife,andstartingfromitsspine,carefullyslicedowntowardsitsbelly,ononesideonly,followingthebonelinebutdontsliceallthewaythrough.Thisistocreateapocketforthestuffing,about15cm(6inches)long.
Nowcoatthefishwiththesoysauce,salt,andhalfthegingerandgarlicpaste.Leavetomarinatefor10minutes.
Heatthepeanutoilinahotpan.Stirinthepassataandtheremaininggarlicandgingerpaste.Cook,stirring,overmediumheatfor10minutes.Addtheturmeric,paprikaandspringonionandcookforafurther5minutes.
Allowthepassatamixturetocoolalittle,thenstuffhalfthemixtureintothepocketinthe
fish.Securethepocketbytyingthefishbacktogetherwithkitchenstring.
Stirthetomatoand125ml(4floz/cup)hotwaterintotheremainingstuffingmixtureandsimmerforafurther5minutes.
Meanwhile,half-fillawokwithvegetableoilandheatto180C(350F),oruntilacubeofbreaddroppedintotheoilbrownsin15seconds.Addthefishanddeep-fryfor8minutes,oruntilcrisp,turningthefishoverhalfwayduringcooking.
Transferthefishtoaservingplate,thencutawayanddiscardthestring.Topthefishwiththeremainingstuffingmixture.Garnishwiththecorianderandserve.
SHANWARMCHICKPEATOFUNOODLESOUPSERVES4
Thismost-loveddishinShanismadefromtofu,butnotyourusualsoyabeantofu,Thetofu is actuallymade from chickpeas! I was introduced to this dish by a lovely ladynamedMisuu. I satwithher familygrindingsoakedchickpeas ina traditionaloldstonemillanexperienceIwillneverforget.Youllfindchickpeaflourinhealthfoodshops,Forthisrecipeyouwillneedtoletitsettleincoldwaterovernight,sostartadayahead.
INGREDIENTS
400g(14oz/3cups)besan(chickpeaflour)
60ml(2floz/cup)peanutoil
teaspoongroundturmeric
5redAsianshallots,diced
3garliccloves,peeledandpounded
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandpounded
3tomatoes,diced
1teaspoonsweetpaprika
3boneless,skinlesschickenthighs(about450g/1lb),cutinto3cm(1inch)chunks
TOSERVE
400g(14oz)freshricenoodles,cookedaccordingtopacketinstructions
200g(7oz)babybokchoy(pakchoy),leavesseparated
200g(7oz)beansprouts
1tablespoonblacksesameseeds
1tablespoonroastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts
2teaspoonsFriedGarlic(seeNote)
1tablespoonlightsoysauce
1tablespoonsugarcanesyruporcanesyrup
slicedspringonion(scallion),togarnish
chilliflakes,togarnish
limewedges,toserve
METHOD
Inalargebowl,whisktogetherthebesanand1litre(34floz/4cups)coldwateruntil
smooth.Leavetosettleovernight.
Ladletheliquidfromthetopofthebesanmixtureintoasaucepan.Placeoverlowheatandcookfor15minutes,stirringorwhiskingsoitdoesntgolumpy.
Nowbegintoaddafewtablespoonsoftheremainingbesanmixtureevery2minutesforthenext15minutes,whiskingorstirringoften,untilallthemixtureisincorporated.Theliquidwillgetthickerandthicker.
Meanwhile,placeafryingpanoverlowheat.Addthepeanutoilandsauttheturmeric,shallot,garlicandgingerfor15minutes.Nowaddthetomato,paprika,chickenandapinchofseasalt.Stir-fryovermediumheatfor10minutes,oruntilthechickeniscooked.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.
Brieflyblanchthebabybokchoyinboilingwater,drainandsetaside.
Toastthesesameseedsinafryingpanovermediumheatuntilfragrant.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.
Toserve,dividethenoodlesamongfoursoupbowls.Ladlethebesanmixtureoverthenoodles,thentopwiththechickenmixture.Topeachbowlwiththebokchoy,beansprouts,sesameseeds,peanuts,friedgarlic,soysauceandsugarcanesyrup.
Garnishwithspringonionandchilliflakesandservewithlimewedges.
KengtungKengtungwasourlaststopinMyanmar,beforeheadingofftoThailand.Iwasdrawntherebythelaidbacklifestyle,thehilltribevillagesandtheabsenceoftourists,Kengtungisthesecond largest town in the Shan state, Built on the shores of Nawng Tung Lake, it issurrounded bymountains, Its architecture ranges from ancient temples andmonasteriesandmoulderingcolonialhousestonondescriptmodernstructures.
KengtungisthecentrefortheKungminoritygroup,whichmakesupabout80percentofthetownspopulation,ThenameKengtungmeansWalledCityofTungandreferstothemythicalfounderofthecity,TheregionaroundthecitywasoncetiedtotheLannaKingdomofnorthernThailand,andtherearemanysimilaritiesbetweenthetwotoday.
Itisthehilltribepeoplewhomakethisareasofascinating,Thecompletelyself-sufficientAnhhilltribevillageIwantedtovisitwashighupinthemountains,butmonsoonmudslidesmadethetrickytripmuchslower,WereachedthevillageafterfourhoursofdrivingandweregreetedbyavillageeldernamedAye,whowasalsothevillageshamanahealerofthesick,Ayewasinhisnineties;hehaddarkleatheryskinandjet-blackteeth,HetoldmeIhadhorriblewhiteteethandthatIshouldrubblackbarkonthemtomakethemmorepresentable.
Ayeusedtogoonhuntingtripsintothejungleandsaidtheyweresometimesoutthereforweeks,sonaturallyitwasimportantthattheytooksomelong-lastingfoodsuppliestosustainthem,Youllfindoutmoreabouthisamazingtraditionaljungle-huntingrecipe.
Backintown,themainmarketisthelifebloodofKengtung,Imsurethelocalfoodvendorshadntseenmanyforeignersbeforeastheywerekeenforustosampleeverythingtheyhadonoffer:curries,pastes,soups,sweetpuddings,andevenbuffaloskinthathadbeencharred,boiled,thentossedinasaladofbananablossomandsnakebeans,Butonedishwasastandout,madeofshreddedyoungbambooshoots,wrappedaroundamixtureoffinelychoppedpork,garlic,chilliandgingerleaves,thenflash-fried,Itwascrunchy,softandchewyallatthesametime,Youllfindthiswonderfulrecipe.
Thatday,IalsolearntanimportantMyanmarcustom,WhenvisitingaMyanmarfamily,alwaysbringbambooasagift,Bamboogrowsstrongandtallandisverydurable,asymbolofthefamilysunity,growth,strengthandgoodhealth.
WARMBUFFALOSKINSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
BuffaloskinisconsideredadelicacybytheethnicminoritygroupsofMyanmar.CookingthisdishwithMaiher,avillageelder,wastheveryfirsttimeIhadtriedit,andIactuallyreallyenjoyeditstexture.Thebuffaloskinitselfdidnthavemuchflavour,butitabsorbedandcarriedtheflavoursthatwerecombinedwithit.Ifyoucantgetyourhandsonbuffaloskin,usecookedshreddedporkskininstead;youcanfindthisrefrigeratedatyourlocalVietnamesemarket,whereitiscalleddabi,Ifyouareusingdabi,youdontneed toboil it just toss itwith theother ingredientsas it isalreadycookedandreadytogo.
INGREDIENTS
1freshbananablossomheart(glossary)
2tablespoonspeanutoil
3garliccloves,diced
3redAsianshallots,sliced
teaspoongroundturmeric
teaspoonsweetpaprika
1ripetomato,chopped
1teaspoonseasalt
1redchilli,sliced
80g(3oz)driedbuffaloskin,sliced
2snake(yard-long)beans,sliced
3garlicchives,sliced
1Indianroot(glossary),sliced,or1babyleekorpencilleek,whitepartonly,sliced
40g(1oz/cup)roastedcrushedunsaltedpeanuts,plusextratogarnish
coriander(cilantro),togarnish
METHOD
Peelawayanddiscardtheouterleavesfromthebananablossomheart.Cookthebananablossomheartinasaucepanofboilingwaterfor15minutes,oruntiltender.Strain,slicefinelyandsetaside.
Heatafryingpanovermediumheat.Addthepeanutoilandsautthegarlicandshallotuntilfragrant.
Addtheturmericandpaprikaandsautfor3minutes.Nowaddthetomato,salt,chilliandbuffaloskinandstir-fryforafurther3minutes.
Meanwhile,placethebananablossom,snakebeans,garlicchives,Indianrootorleekandthepeanutsinalargemixingbowl.Tosstogetherwell,thenaddthehotingredientsfromthepan.Mixwell.
Transferthemixturetoaservingbowl.Servegarnishedwithcorianderandsomeextracrushedpeanuts.
YOUNGBAMBOOSHOOTSSTUFFEDWITHPORK&GINGERLEAFSERVES4asasnackorstarter
ThefoodatKengtungslocalmarketswaslikealongbanquet:rowsoftableswerefilledwithallmannerofdishes,rangingfromsmallsnackstocolourfulcurrypastesanddips,tomainmealsready-cookedandpackaged.Ivisitedduringmonsoonseason,whenbamboogrows abundantly, and one unusual-looking dish I really liked was shredded youngbambooshoots,stuffedwithporkandflash-fried,Bambooissuchaversatileplant,andaverysustainableonetoo,Itcangrowuptoonemetre(threefeet)overnight,andthefreshshootsareabsolutelydelicious.
INGREDIENTS
2smallfreshyoungbambooshoots,toughouterlayerdiscarded
100g(3oz)minced(ground)pork
1greenchilli,sliced
1redchilli,sliced
3garliccloves,diced
2gingerleaves(glossary),finelysliced,optional
vegetableoil,fordeep-frying
StickyRice,toserve
METHOD
Placethebambooshootsinasaucepan,coverwithplentyofcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Allowtoboilfor1hour,oruntiltender.Drainandleavetocool.
Laythebambooshootsonachoppingboard.Holdthethickendofoneshootwithonehand.Withyourotherhand,quicklyruntwotoothpicksdowntheshoot,starting1cm(inch)fromthethickend,downtothetip,creatingfinethinshreds.Repeatwiththeothershoot.
Placethepork,chillies,garlicandapinchofseasaltonalargechoppingboardandpileintoamound.Usingtwosharpknivesorcleavers,mincealltheseingredientstogether.
Placeoneheapedtablespoonoftheporkfillinginthemiddleofonebambooshoot.Sprinklesomegingerleafontop,thencloseuptheparcel,securingitwithbambooropeorkitchenstring.Repeatwiththeremainingingredients.
Half-fillamedium-sizedwokwithvegetableoilandheatto180C(350F),oruntilacubeofbreaddroppedintotheoilbrownsin15seconds.Addthebambooshootsoneatatimeanddeep-fryfor34minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcrisp.Drainbrieflyonpapertowels.
Cutthebambooshootsinhalfandservewithstickyrice.
AROMATICSTIR-FRIEDSMOKEDBEEFSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
I hitched a ride on top of an old jeep to a small village occupied by the Anh ethnicminority, where I met Aye, the village shaman. The first thing he said is that I havehorribleteeth.HetoldmetheyweretoowhiteandthatIshouldrubthemwithblackbarkeverydaysotheyturnblack.Onlyanimalsandbeastshavewhiteteeth,hesaid.I didnt heed his dental advice, but I did take his advice on a traditionalAnh dish hismotherusedtocook.Whenthemenheadedintothejungleonlonghuntingtrips,theyalsotooknon-perishablefoodsintheformofdriedsmokedbeef,aromatics,rootsandpowders,whichtheywouldcookupwiththewildherbsandvegetablestheyforagedalongtheway.Andsothisdishwasborn.If you cant find smoked beef, thick beef jerky or finely sliced beef sirloin are goodsubstitutes.
INGREDIENTS
200g(7oz)driedsmokedbeef(glossary)orChinesebeefjerky
2tablespoonsvegetableoil
2garliccloves,finelysliced
3redAsianshallots,sliced
3cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandjulienned
5cm(2inch)pieceoffreshgalangal,peeledandsliced
1lemongrassstem,whitepartonly,finelysliced
1teaspoongroundturmeric
teaspoonsweetpaprika
2redchillies,sliced
8makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,julienned
1springonion(scallion),sliced
4saw-toothcoriander(cilantro)leaves(glossary),sliced
StickyRiceorsteamedjasminerice,toserve
METHOD
Putthedriedbeefinasaucepan,coverwithplentyofcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Allowtoboilfor30minutes,oruntilsoftened.Drainwell,reserving250ml(8Vfloz/1cup)ofthecookingliquid.Allowthebeeftocool,thenslicefinelyandsetaside.
Heatafryingpanorwokovermedium-highheat.Addthevegetableoilandsautthegarlicandshallotuntilfragrant.Nowaddtheginger,galangal,lemongrass,turmeric,
paprika,chilliandapinchofseasalt.Stirinthebeefandthereservedcookingliquid,reducetheheattomedium-lowandsimmerfor4minutes.
Stirinthemakrutleavesandspringonion.Garnishwiththecorianderandservewithstickyriceorjasminerice.
SHANMEDICINALVEGETABLESOUPSERVES4
Travelling during monsoon season, we had to endure torrential rain, severe heat andhumidity, aswell as hotel air-conditioning,Host of us came downwith a cold at somestage,soIwasalwayslookingoutfortastybutmedicinaltraditionaldishes,OnemorningIwokeupfeelingundertheweather,butassoonasIcookedupthislight,subtleandveryflavoursomesoupIfeltawhole lotbetter, It just feltsogoodtoeat,Alotof thesoupsflavour comes from the dried fermented soya beans used by the localmountain ethnicgroups,Ifyoucantgetany,use thepreservedbeancurdsold inglass jarsatyour localAsianmarket,Ateaspoonwoulddothejob.
INGREDIENTS
2wholelemongrassstems
1teaspoonseasalt
2redchillies,chopped
4appleeggplants(aubergines;seeNote),cutintoquarters
12peaeggplants(aubergines;seeNote)
1Japaneseeggplant(aubergine),cutinto2cm(inch)slices
1carrot,cutinto1cm(inch)pieces
1ridgedgourd,cutinto2cm(inch)pieces(glossary)
2tablespoonssoysauce
1handfulchokoleaves
1handfulfishmintleavesorpennywortleaves(glossary)
1handfulsweetbasilorwaterspinachleaves
1handfulsafflowerleavesorwatercresssprigs
4saw-toothcoriander(cilantro)leaves(glossary),sliced
4cm(1inch)pieceoffreshginger,peeledandjulienned
steamedjasminerice,toserve
METHOD
Smashthelemongrassstemswithaheavycleaver,thentieeachoneinaknot.Placeinasaucepanwith1litre(34floz/4cups)waterandbringtotheboil.
Poundthesaltandchillitogetherusingamortarandpestle,thenaddtotheboilingwater.Whenthewaterreturnstotheboil,addthevegetablesandsoysauceandboilfor5minutes,oruntilthevegetablesaretender.
Nowstirinalltheleavesexceptthecoriander.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerforafurther2minutes.
Transfertoindividualbowlsandgarnishwiththecorianderandginger.Servewithjasminerice.
NOTE
Appleeggplantsaregreenorwhiteandaboutthesizeofgolfballs.Peaeggplants,alsocalledbabyThaieggplants,aregreenmarble-sizedeggplants,soldinclusterslikegrapes.Theyareusedwholeandburstwhenbitteninto.YoullfindthembothatAsianmarkets.
BAMBOOSALADSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
Throughout the markets of Myanmar, I had seen street vendors selling cooked redbamboo.Iwasintriguedastowheretheredbamboocamefrom,untilalocalladysharedthesecretwithme.Shewalkedmetohercornfield(asyoudoinMyanmar),andpeeledthe green husks from a corn cob, She placed them in a pot of water with the youngbamboo,broughtit totheboilandpresto:thewaterandbambooturnedred!Thismagictrick only works with fresh bamboo. If you cant get any, you can use whole bambooshoots vacuum-packed in brine; these are usually pre-cooked, so they dont need to beboiled,andwontturnred.
INGREDIENTS
1freshyoungbambooshoot
1corncobhusk
1handfullemonbasil,sliced
1tablespoonblacksesameseeds,poundedintoapowder
2redAsianshallots,sliced
1teaspoonGarlicOil(seeNote)
juiceoflime
METHOD
Cutawayanddiscardthetoughouterlayerofthebambooshootthencuttheshootintoquarterslengthways.Placeinasaucepanwiththecornhusk,coverwithplentyofcoldwaterandbringtotheboil.Allowtoboilfor30minutes,oruntilthebamboobecomesalightredcolour.(Thecornhuskiswhatmakesthebambooturnredseeintroduction.)
Drainoffthewater,thenaddfreshwaterandbringtotheboilagain.Boilforafurther30minutes,thenremovethebambooandallowtocool.
Runtwotoothpicksalongthelengthofthebamboo,cuttingitintolongthinshreds.Nowcutthebamboointo4cm(linch)lengthsandtransfertoamixingbowl.
Addtheremainingingredientsandapinchofseasalt.Mixwellandserve.
THAILANDCHIANGKHONGTOCHIANGMAI
In1977,myfamilyfledVietnambyboattoescapetheaftermathoftheVietnamWar.Myfatherhadneversteeredaboatbefore,buthehadtolearnveryquicklyasitwasliterallydoordie,Mybrother,sisterandmother,whowasheavilypregnantwithme,werehiddenonthebottomdeck.
Afterafewweeksontheocean,welandedinMalaysia,butwewerepushedbackouttoseaastheMalaysianauthoritiesthoughtthereweretoomanyVietnameserefugeesarrivingbyboat.Oneweeklater,wearrivedontheshoresofThailand,whereIwaseventuallyborn.WestayedinarefugeecampinDinDaeng,justsouthofBangkok,foroneyearbeforemovingtoAustralia,soIdidntactuallyhavethepleasureofexperiencinglifeinThailand.
IwasalittleanxiousaboutreturningtomybirthcountrywouldIfeellikeaforeigner,orwoulditfeellikeIwascominghome?
AllIknewofThailandwasthatitwasSouth-EastAsiasmostinternationallyrecognisedcountry,andthatthefoodhadalwaysstayedtruetoitstraditions,despitemanyoutsideinfluences.Iwastheretoinvestigatethenortherncuisineknowntobespicier,punchierandmorepowerfulthanthefoodintherestofthecountry.
NorthernThailandisfarfrommonocultural.OneofthecrossroadsofAsia,ithasbeencaughtupinregionalwarsforcenturies.Theinfluencesofpastrulersandimmigrantshaveovertimeblendedinandoutofthefood,culture,architectureandthebloodlinesofthepeople,makingforamostinterestinganddiversestoryamongthemountainsofnorthernThailand.
IstartedmynorthernexplorationinChiangKhong,whereIhopedtocatchagiantcatfishanddiscoverthesecretsofanauthentictomyumpla.Ialsowantedtodelveintothecomplexitiesofthenorthern-stylecurrypastes,andlearnhowtocatchmyownricepaddyfrogstocookafarmersfrogcurry.
Ithentravelledtothemountainsfurthernorth,whereIvisitedanAkhavillagenearMaeSalongandpreparedarusticspicytomatodipwithanAkhagrandmotherusingthefreshestingredients.Isetupakitcheninabananaforestandusedtheheartofabananatrunktoprepareachickenandbananatrunknoodlecurry.
MyThaijourneyendedinthebustlingtownofChiangMai,whereIlappedupthenightlifeandcookednorthernThaiclassicssuchasgreenpapayasalad,barbecuedporkbellyandwarmjackfruitsalad.
Ialsosampledanassortmentofcrispyinsects,whichImsurewillfeatureinWesternfine-diningrestaurantssomedaysoon!
ChiangKhongChiangKhong faces the lao border town ofHuayXai, across theMekongRiver, LordBuddhawassaidtohavevisitedthissmallsleepytownmorethan2500yearsago,Todayitreliesmainlyonfishing,TheMekongRiveristhelifebloodofthisregion,secondonlytotheAmazonRiverinitsdiversityoffish,Itisthemajorsourceofproteinforthelocalpeople,andfishermenconstantlyworkitsrichwaters.
Myfirstdaybeganearly,whenImetMrTa,famousforcatchingthetownslargestgiantcatfish.Imethimathishome,astonesthrowfromtheMekongRiver.Hewasinhissixties,dark-skinnedandbuiltlikearock.Hegreetedmewiththefriendliestsmileandplacedhisarmsaroundmyshouldersaswewalkeddowntotherivertogether.
Wehoppedintohisboatandtravelledupstream.Hefannedhissmallfishingnetintothestrongcurrent,andweflowedbackdownstreamafewkilometresbeforeMrTastoppedhisboatandIpulledthenetin.Wecaughtmanysmallfish,whichIletgo,butthencamethebigoneanenormouscatfish!ButMrTaplayeditcool.Ah,thatsnothing,hesmiled.Ivecaughtacatfishweighing250kilogramsandgiantstingraystoo!
Hesaidheusuallycookshisfreshcatfishwithtomyum,whichmademesuperexcited.Weforagedthroughhisneighboursgardens,harvestingfreshingredientsforhisbroth.Galangal,lemongrass,chilli,makrut(kaffirlime),tomatoes,shallots,saw-toothcoriander(cilantro)thefreshorganicproducethatmakesthissoupwhatitshouldbe,notthepowderedseasoningssomeThairestaurantsuse.
FreshiskeyinnorthernThaicooking,andIlearntthisfirsthandwhenIvisitedaricepaddyfieldjustafterharvesting.Whenthericestalksarepluckedoutofthewetmuddyground,thefieldanimalsareexposed.Thatswhenthericefarmerscatchthemandcookthemupforlunch.
Withthehelpofonefarmer,Icaughtsixfrogsandoneeel.Ilettheeelgo,butthefarmerinsistedIcookafarmersricepaddyfrogcurry.ThespicepastesinnorthernThaicurriesarespicyandpungent,withloadsofredchillies,galangal,lemongrass,makrut,shrimppasteandanchovypaste.Arealpartyonthepalate.
TOMYUMPLASOUPWITHCATFISHSERVES46
IvesampledmanybowlsoftornyumsoupinAustralia,butmyThaifriendsalwayssaidtheywerent very authentic, Sowhen Imet themost experienced fisherman inChiangKhong,who says hemakes the best tom yum soup, I had to cookwith him and learn,Togetherweforagedthroughhisneighboursgardenseverythingwaseitherpluckedoffatreeordugoutoftheground,AndthefishwellIproudlycaughtthatonemyselfMrTas recipecalls forsevenbirdseyechillies,but ifyouarenotThai, Istronglysuggestcuttingthatamountbyhalf.
INGREDIENTS
2litres(68floz/8cups)fishstock(seeNote)
3lemongrassstems,whitepartonly,bruised
6cm(2inch)pieceoffreshgalangal,finelysliced
7birdseyechillies,bruised
5redAsianshallots,peeledandbruised
8makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,torn
100ml(3floz)fishsauce
400g(14oz)catfishorsilverperchfillets,cutinto2.5cm(1inch)pieces
10cherrytomatoes,quartered
3springonions(scallions),cutinto4cm(1inch)lengths
6saw-toothcoriander(cilantro)leaves(glossary),sliced
100ml(3floz)limejuice
1handfulcoriander(cilantro),togarnish
steamedjasminerice,toserve
METHOD
Pourthestockintoastockpotorlargesaucepan,Addthelemongrass,galangal,chillies,shallotsandmakrutleavesandbringtotheboil,Reducetheheatandsimmerfor5minutes,Addthefishsauce,fishandcherrytomatoesandbringbacktotheboil,Skimoffanyimpurities.
Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor6minutes,oruntilthefishisjustcooked,Stirinthespringonion,saw-toothcorianderandlimejuice,Garnishwithcorianderandservewithsteamedjasminerice.
NOTE
Tomakefishstoolplace1kg(2lb3oz)fishtrimmings(bones,headandtail)inalargosaucepanwith4halvedgarliccloves,achopped2cm(inch)pieceoffreshginger.1bashedlemongrassstem,2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,2choppedspringonions(scallions)and2litres(68floz/8cups)water.Bringtotheboil,skimofftheimpuritiesthensimmerfor30minutes,skimmingconstantly,Pourtheslockthroughalinesieveandcool.Portionintosmalleramountsandrefrigerateorfreezeuntilrequired.
PORKCHARGRILLEDINBAMBOOSERVES4aspartofasharedmeal
ItravelledanhournorthofChiangKhongtoLahuvillage,hometotheHmongpeople,tomeet Yoda, who promised to show me his favourite local pork dish one cooked inbamboo.ButfirstIhadtochopdownatallbambootree,withonlyasmallbluntmachete!ItwastakingsolongthatIwasexpectingYodatosay,Usetheforce,Luke!Cookinginbambooimpartsagreatherbaceous,earthyflavourtofood.Ifyoudonthappentohaveabambootreeinyourbackyard,youcanmakethisdishinanearthenwareclaypot.
INGREDIENTS
50cm(20inch)lengthoflargebamboo,optional
12bananaleaves
FILLING
500g(1lb2oz)porkloin,finelysliced
3lemongrassstems,whitepartonly,finelychopped
110g(3oz/1cup)finelychoppedredAsianshallots
6cm(2inch)pieceoffreshgalangal,peeledandfinelysliced
5driedredchillies,chopped
1tablespoonseasalt
TOGARNISH
2makrut(kaffirlime)leaves,finelysliced
1longredchilli,julienned
1handfulThaibasilleaves
METHOD
Inamixi