Fragrance, Flavors & Additives

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    Fragrance, Flavors &

    Food Additives

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    The Perfume IndustryFragrances

    - perfume, cologne and toilet water

    The change in the manufacture of these fragrances has resulted from a number o increase in the number of available raw-material ingredients, both natural and a variety of new types of products requiring Fragrances; innovations in packaging, broadened channels and methods of distribution, including door-to-door selling phenomenal growth in mens toiletries.

    Perfume- any mixture of pleasantly odoroussubstances incorporated in a suitablevehicle.

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    Perfumare- Latin word for perfume- To fill with smoke

    Further discoveries lead to themanufacture of Ointments andfragrant unguents.

    Avicenna, discovered steam distillation of volatile oils, During his search for medical that flowers boiled in an alembic with water gave up some of their essence to the d

    Ren, perfumer to Catherine de Medici. Invented many new confections to delighnose and in his spare time, was one of the cleverest and deadliest of the famous depoisoners.

    Persons who contributed in the perfume industry:

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    Many of the finest perfumes are imported from France. Classical colognes are at old.

    Cologne. Germany

    OLD SPICE

    POLO BLUE

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    USES:

    Fragrances are used industrially in masking, neutralizing, and altering the odor of products.

    creating a distinctive aroma for normally odorless objects.

    EX. Cashmere shawls manufactured in Scotland are given the Hindu touch by patchouli oil applied to them.

    Odors are used successfully to increase customer appeal, though they are not esthe performance of the products to which they are added.

    Aromatics or Reodorants- used to disguise foul or unwanted smell in products

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    ConstituentsFormerly, practically all the products used in perfumery were of natural ori

    humans first started synthesizing materials for use in this field, they endeavoured to

    Finest in nature.

    The constituents of perfumes are: thesolvent, the fixative, and the odorifero

    Lily of the valley

    Violets

    Lilac

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    Vehicleshighly refined ethyl alcohol

    helps to project the scent it carries,

    fairly inert to the solutes,

    and not too irritating to the human skin.

    Prefixation Method used to removed the slight natural odor o

    alcohol.

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    Fixativesdefined as substances of lower volatility than the perfume oils, which retard and

    the rate of evaporation of the various odorous constituents.

    TYPES OF FIXATIVES

    Animal Fixatives

    Ambergis

    Muscone

    Civetone

    Ca

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    Hard Resins

    BenzoinGums

    Reisonous Fixatives-from plants

    Soft Resins

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    All these substances, when being prepared for perfume compounding aand aged by methods passed down by word of mouth.

    Methods: Tincture

    -If solution is brought about in the cold, Infusion

    -If heat is required to give solution.

    Labdanum-The most important of the soft gums.

    In early organic chemical history an acid isolated from this gum becameas benzoic acid, from which the names of all benzo compounds of today are de

    Benzoin-The most important of the ha- influenced by this substanc- from Java- called luban jawi.

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    Essential-Oil Fixatives. clary sage, vetiver, patchouli, orris, and

    sandalwood.

    These oils have boiling points higherthan normal (28.3 to 290C).

    Other synthetics:

    Synthetic Fixatives. glyceryl diacetate (239C), ethyl phthalate (295c), benzyl benzoate (323C)

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    ODOROUS SUBSTANCESMost odorous substances used in perfumery come under three headings

    essential oils,

    isolates, and synthetic or semisynthetic chemicals

    Essential Oils

    defined as volatile, odoriferous oils of vegetable origin obtained by enflesolvent extraction and essential oils recovered by distillation.

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    The compounds occurring in essential oils can be classified as:

    Volatile oils can be recovered from plants by the following:

    1. Expression2. Distillationwhich is used to obtain the majority of oils

    3. Extraction and Volatile Solvents4. Enfleurage5. Maceration6. Solvent extractionmost technically advance process

    1. Esters

    2. Alcohols

    3. Aldehydes

    4. Acids

    5. Phenols

    6. Ketones

    7. Esters

    8. Lactones

    9. Terpenes

    10. Hydrocarbons

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    Distillation

    Preparation: Flowers and grasses are normally charged into the still without preparation.

    Leaves and succulent roots and twigs are cut into small pieces. Dried materials are powdered. Woods and tough roots are sawed into small pieces or mechanically chipped. Seeds and nuts are fed through crushing rolls so as to crack them. Berries are charged in the natural state

    Stills: Thin lined copper or stainless steel

    2300 L capacity Condensers of various sorts Separator Removable baskets construct the still with a perforated false plate lying just above the bottom. Underneath this false bottom are steam coils both closed and perforated.

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    ExpressionExpressionby machine is the method used commercially. Of the hand-pressed procsponge process is the most important. Since it produces the highest-quality oil..

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    EnfleurageThe enfleurage process is a cold-fat

    extraction process used on a few typesof delicate flowers which yield no directoil at all on distillation. In the case ofjasmine and tuberose, the pickedflowers continue to produce perfumeas long as they are alive. The fat, or

    base consists of a highly purified mixtureof 1 part tallow to 2 parts lard, with 0.6%benzoin added as a preservative.

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    EXTRACTION WITH VOLATILE SOLVENTS.

    The most important factor in the success of this practice is the selec

    solvent. The solvent must:

    Selective Have a low boiling point.

    Be chemically inert to the oil.

    Evaporate completely without leaving any odorous residue Be low-priced and, if possible non-flammable.

    Highly purified petroleum ether is-most successful solvent for extraction

    Benzene-when employed, it is specially purified by repeated crystallization.

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    SYNTHETICS AND SEMISYNTHETICS USED IN PERAND FLAVORS.

    Synthetics

    made by chemical synthesis, especially to imitate a natural product.

    semi-synthetics-constituents that are chemically synthesized from an isolate or other natumaterials

    Isolatesare pure chemical compounds whose source is an eor other natural perfume material. EX: eugenol from clove oil, pfrom turpen tine, anethole from anise oil, and linalool from linal

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    CONDENSATION PROCESSESCoumarin occurs in tonka beans and 65 other plants, but the economical source is the sy employed as a fixative and enhancing agent for essential oils and tobacco pro a masking agent for disagreeable odors in industrial products. Perkin reaction.

    EXAMPLES: vanillin, ionone and terpentiles

    These examples are presented under the most important chemical conversion.

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    Diphenyl oxide, or ether-largely used in the soap and perfume industries

    Ionone- Posess the so called violet type of odor

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    Cinnamic aldehyde has a cinnamon odor. As it oxidizes in air toacid, it should be protected from oxidation. Although this aldeobtained from Chinese cassia oils, it is synthesized by action of

    a mixture of benzaldehyde and acetaldehyde.

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    ESTERIFICATION PROCESSES,Benzyl benzoate has a faint aromatic odor, boils at 323 to 324C, an

    fixative and a flavoring material. It occurs naturally in balsams but is prepar

    commercially by the esterification of benzoic acid with benzyl alcohol or bCannizzaro reaction with benzaldehyde.

    Two esters of salicylic acid (o-hdroxy benzoic acid)-very important commercially in the perfume and flavoring industries .

    Benzyl acetate (C6H5CHOCOCH3)

    -Another widely used ester because of its low cost and floral odor.- made by hydrolysing benzyl chloride.

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    Grignard Processes. Phenylethyl alcoholhas a roselike odor and occurs in the volatile oilsof rose, orange flowers, and others. It is an oilyliquid and is much used in perfume formulation.

    Hydrogenation

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    Nitration ProcessesArtificial musks comprise a number of products not identical with the n

    musk, which derives its odor from macrocyclic compounds.The reactions for thimportant commercial artificial musks are: