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1 Fourth of July Star A JINNY BEYER STUDIO Mini-Pattern Block finishes 18" In diagram, number indicates fabric and letter indicates patch. 1-F 6 6- -D D 1-C 1-A 1-E 1-E 1-E 1-E 1-E 1-E 2-E 3-E 4-E 2-E 3-E 4-E 5 5- -B B Left Strip-Set Unit Right Strip-Set Unit Yardage is provided below (small/large). Instructions are provided for the small size withchanges for the large size indicated in parentheses (). You may wish to high- light quantities and measurements related to the size quilt you are making on the pattern. Please read the entire pattern through before begin- ning. It assumes general quiltmaking knowledge. All seam allowances are ¼". WOF = Width of Fabric. Fabric Yardage/Cutting Instructions Fabric 1 (Beige) (1¼/3 yards) E - Cut 15 (33) strips 1¼" x WOF F - Cut 4 (9) A - Cut 64 (144) C - Cut 16 (36) Fabrics 2, 3, 4 (Light, Medium, Dark Red) (¼/½ yard each for light & dark; ¾/1 yard for med.) E - Cut 5 (11) strips 1¼" x WOF from each fabric Inner Border - From Fabric 3 (medium), cut 5 (7) strips measuring 2¼" x WOF Fabric 5 (Dark Blue) (1/1 1 / 3 yard) B - Cut 64 (144) Reserve remainder for binding. Fabric 6 (Medium Blue) (¼/ 1 / 3 yard) D - Cut 16 (36) Fabric 7 (Border Print) (2/2½ yards) See Step 4. F 10¼" D 2¾" A 1 5 /8 " C 3½" B 2" Small quilt (4 blocks, shown) finishes 55" x 55". Large quilt (9 blocks) finishes 73" x 73".

Fourth of July Star A JINNY BEYER STUDIO Mini-Pattern · Make 2. Begin stitching ¼" from fabric edge (at dot). Join units, beginning and ending stitching ¼" from fabric edge (at

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Fourth of July StarA JINNY BEYER STUDIO Mini-Pattern

Block finishes 18"In diagram, number indicates fabric and letter indicates patch.

1-F66--DD

1-C1-A

1-E

1-E

1-E

1-E

1-E

1-E

2-E

3-E

4-E2-E

3-E

4-E

55--BB

Left Strip-Set Unit

Right Strip-Set Unit

Yardage is provided below (small/large). Instructionsare provided for the small size with changes for the largesize indicated in parentheses (). You may wish to high-light quantities and measurements related to the sizequilt you are making on the pattern.

Please read the entire pattern through before begin-ning. It assumes general quiltmaking knowledge.All seam allowances are ¼". WOF = Width of Fabric.

Fabric Yardage/Cutting Instructions

Fabric 1 (Beige) (1¼/3 yards)E - Cut 15 (33) strips 1¼" x WOFF - Cut 4 (9)A - Cut 64 (144)C - Cut 16 (36)

Fabrics 2, 3, 4 (Light, Medium, Dark Red)(¼/½ yard each for light & dark; ¾/1 yard for med.)E - Cut 5 (11) strips 1¼" x WOF from each fabricInner Border - From Fabric 3 (medium), cut 5 (7)strips measuring 2¼" x WOF

Fabric 5 (Dark Blue) (1/11/3 yard)B - Cut 64 (144)Reserve remainder for binding.

Fabric 6 (Medium Blue) (¼/ 1/3 yard)D - Cut 16 (36)

Fabric 7 (Border Print) (2/2½ yards)See Step 4.

F

10¼"

D

2¾"

A

15/8"

C

3½"

B

2"

Small quilt (4 blocks, shown) finishes 55" x 55".Large quilt (9 blocks) finishes 73" x 73".

Seam Allowance

Seam Allowance

Be sure to include ¼" seam allowance on both sides of theborder print strips.

Step 1: Cut the FabricsCut fabrics for the blocks and inner border as indicated on Page 1 in the order listed for each fabric. From theborder print fabric, cut 4 pieces of the wide stripe and 4 pieces of the narrow stripe. Be sure to include a one-quarter inch seam allowance on each side of all the border print strips (see image below). These border strips andthe inner border strips cut from Fabric 3 are trimmed to fit later.

Step 2: Make the Red & White Strip-Sets & Cut Into UnitsMake three (six) left strip-sets and two (five) right strip-sets as shown. The strips in each strip-set are off-set fromeach other ¾". Align the 45° angle on a rotary cuttingruler with the bottom strip and trim the ends of each strip-set.

Small Quilt: You need 16 left and 16 right units. Each unit mea-sures a scant 5¼" from cut edge to cut edge. From two left strip-sets,cut seven left units each. From two right strip-sets, cut seven rightunits each. From the remaining left strip-set, cut two left units andtwo right units.

Large Quilt: You need 36 left and 36 right units. Each unitmeasures a scant 5¼" from cut edge to cut edge. Fromfive left strip-sets, cut seven left units each. From five rightstrip-sets, cut seven right units each. From the remaining leftstrip-set, cut one left unit and one right unit.

Step 3: Make the Blocks &Assemble the QuiltMake four (nine) blocks, followingthe block assembly diagram on Page 3. Whenthe blocks are complete, sew them together into two (three) rows of two (three) blocks. Sew the rows together.

Step 4: Add the Borders & BindReferring to the Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way sheetand following the instructions for Framing a SquareQuilt and Adding Multiple Borders, trim your borderstrips and add the borders to the quilt center. Bind usingyour favorite method or by followingAdding Binding the Jinny Beyer Way atwww.jinnybeyer.com/binding.

Fourth of July StarThis block appears in Jinny Beyer’s book, A Quilter’s Album of Patchwork Patterns. The block was first published in 1931and is unnamed. It reminded us of fireworks and flags so we thought it was perfect for celebrating the Fourth of July.

2

5¼"

Left Strip Set (yields seven left units)

Right Strip Set (yields seven right units)

5¼"

From last strip, cut two (one) left and right units.

Make 2. Begin stitching ¼" from fabric edge (at dot).

Join units, beginning and ending stitching¼" from fabric edge (at dots).

©2010, Jinny Beyer

Designed by Jinny BeyerPattern Written by Elaine Kelly

Quilt Block AssemblyFor each block:

3

Left Unit

Right Unit

Make 4.

4

6

Add triangle to two units.

7

Make 16Flying Geese units.

1

Make 4 Evening Star units.

2

5

Add triangles to complete block.

8

Make 4. Begin and end stitching¼" from fabric edges (at dots).

3

Diagram 2: Cut three pieces identical to the first.

©2010, Jinny Beyer

Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way

Diagram 1: Mark the miter.

Diagram 3: Correctly cut and sewn borderswill have designs that “flow” around the corners.

Jinny Beyer’s border prints are designed specifically with the quilter in mind. Each fabric has a wide and a narrow stripe whichcoordinate in both design and color. Both stripes have mirror-image motifs which are essential for perfectly mitered corners.In addition, the two different stripes in the border print are separated by at least a half-inch so that a 1/4" seam allowance isprovided for on both sides of the stripes. From selvage to selvage, there are always at least four repeats of each stripe across thefabric so calculating the yardage needed to border a quilt is easy: you need the length of the longest side of the quilt plus anadditional half-yard to match design elements and allow for the miters at the corners.

Framing a Square Quilt1. Place a strip of the border print across the middle of the quilt, centering amotif from the border at the exact center of the quilt. (Because of minordifferences in seam allowances taken and stretching that can occur on biasedges, opposite edges of a quilt often measure slightly differently. Using ameasurement taken from the middle of the quilt will help keep the quiltfrom “ruffling” at the edges.)

2. To mark the first miter, position a right-angle triangle so that one of thesides of the right angle runs along the bottom edge of the border print.Then carefully move the triangle until the angled side touches the pointwhere the top edge of the border print meets the edge of the quilt. (Seearrow in Diagram 1.) Mark, then cut the miter line. (Because the miter is cutright at the edge of the quilt, the seam allowance is already included.)

3. Carefully pick up the mitered side of the border strip and lay it on top of thestrip on the opposite side of the quilt, right-sides together, placing the top edgeof the strip at the edge of the quilt. If necessary, adjust the top strip so that thedesign motifs on the top and bottom match exactly. If you have centered a motiffrom the border print in the middle of the quilt, the designs should match at theedges. Cut the second miter. (Using the cut edge as a guide, rather than the tri-angle, ensures that your design motifs will be an exact match.)

4. Using this first mitered strip as a guide, cut three more identical pieces, makingsure that the design on the border print is exactly the same on all four pieces.

5. Mark seam intersection dots on the short side of each of your border strips. Tofind the spot, simply draw a short line 1/4-inch inside the mitered edge and theshort edge of the border strip. Mark the dot where the two lines intersect. Do thesame for each corner of your quilt.

6. To sew the borders to the quilt, pin the mid-point of one of the border piecesto the middle of one of the edges of the quilt. Next, match and pin the dots oneach side of your border with the dots on the quilt corners. Continue pinning theborder to the quilt, easing in any fullness. (The edge of the quilt is usually a littlewider than the center because of bias edges or seams.) Sew the border to the quilt,starting and stopping at the dots. Sew the mitered seams last, starting from theinside dot. When pinning the edges together, be sure to match the design ele-ments on both pieces.

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Diagram 4: Find andmark the center of the quilton the border strip.

Framing a Rectangular QuiltWith rectangles, you cannot always be assured that the designs willautomatically match at the corners so you must take an extra step.

1. First, follow steps 1-3 above and cut two identical strips for theshort ends of the quilt. The pieces for the other two sides of thequilt must be cut differently: for the corners on all pieces tomatch, there must be a seam in these long pieces at the exactcenter of the quilt.

2. Place one of the cut strips on top of a length of the bor-der print stripe, matching the fabric designs. Cut one miterto match the miter on the top strip. Set the top strip aside. Lay thenewly cut strip on top of the quilt through the center, aligning onemitered edge with the edge of the quilt. Mark the center of the quilton the strip as in Diagram 4. Move the strip from the quilt and cut itoff ¼" beyond the center mark. Using this cut strip as a guide, cut

one more piece identical toit.

You also need two strips thatare the exact mirror imagesof these pieces. Using one ofthe strips you just cut, flip it over and lay iton a strip of border print, matching the fab-ric design exactly. (The two strips will be rightsides together.) Cut the miter and straight edges to match the top piece. Using thenewly cut strip as a guide, cut one more piece.

3. Sew the seams at the middle of two mirror-imaged strips and attach these bordersto the quilt as in Steps 5 and 6 in Framing a Square Quilt. Sewing the borders to arectangular quilt in this manner assures that the corners will match. There will be aseam at the center of the long strips (Diagram 5), but the design at that center willmirror-image as well, allowing the design to flow around the quilt.

Applying Multiple BordersJinny often designs quilts to make full use of the border prints. First, shewill frame the quilt with the narrow border stripe, then add a coordinatingfabric as a second border. The quilt is finished off with the wide stripe fromthe border print.

Jinny personally measures and adds each border separately. However, whenthe middle border is a fabric that doesn’t have to be matched at the corners,she recommends the following method as being a little faster: Sew the sec-ond border to the first and then measure and cut them as a single border inthe steps above. Measure, cut and sew the third border separately after thefirst two borders have been completed and sewn to the quilt.

Binding the Quilt: When Jinny uses a border print to frame a quilt, she typi-cally sews the binding to the back of the quilt and turns it to the front. Thisallows her to carefully hand-stitch the binding along a straight line printed onthe border print fabric. For details, see www.jinnybeyer.com/binding.

Diagram 5: The long borders on rectangularquilts have center seams.

Diagram 6: Applying multiple borders

g

Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way ©2010, Jinny Beyer2