Formulating With Cationic Emulsifiers

7/22/2019 Formulating With Cationic Emulsifiers

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Frmultig witCtiic Emulsifirs i

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Ctiic Emulsifirs: A Emrgig Trd i Ski Cr dSu Cr

Histricl

Initially, the skin care market was dominated by soap based emulsions; Triethanolamine and Stearic Acid were common in most skincare formulas. Nonionic emulsifiers increased the formulation opportunities by expanding the scope of compatible functional materials.In todays market, cationic emulsifiers are broadening the range of aesthetics available to the formulator.The use of cationic emulsifiers is not a new concept. In fact, the application area first seen in the market was skin care for babies.Mennen marketed this line under the trade name Baby Magic using two cationic emulsifiers []. S.C. Johnson & Son launched thesecond cationic emulsifier based product, Curel. The success of this product is due to the unique sensory profile that cationicmoieties offer. Cationic emulsions give a smooth powdery after-feel that allows high active loadings without sacrificing efficacy.This brochure will facilitate the selection of the Goldschmidt Personal Care cationic emulsifier that is most suitable for the desiredapplication.

Prduct Dt

Crctristics

Cationic moieties have typically been associated with hair care for conditioning. In this application, they impart lubricity, antistaticproperties and smoothness to the hair fibers. These properties plus excellent emulsifying properties, substantivity to the skin,renewable raw materials and a good cost/performance ratio are increasing the interest in these well known ingredients for skincare applications.As the use of cationic emulsifiers grows, there is increasing interest in expanding the sensory options available by modifying thecationic moiety in a formulation. In selecting a cationic emulsifier, there are some points to consider:

Excellent performance profiles recommend the use of three cationic materials as emulsifiers in skin care products: VARISOFT TA ,VARISOFT PATC and TEGO Care CE . VARISOFT TA (INCI: Distearyldimonium Chloride) is a dialkyl quaternary,while VARISOFT PATC (INCI: Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) and TEGO Care CE (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and)Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) are amidoamine quaternaries. TEGO Care CE use level is higher than its pasty counterpart,but TEGO Care CE offers better handling properties in the laboratory and plant settings.

Long chain or dialkyl quaternaries are milder on theskin than shorter chain monoalkyl analogues [].

The hydrophilic/lipophilic ratio must be appropriatefor the components in the formula.

Long chain cationics are better emulsifiers.

Cationics may be used alone or with co-emulsifiers.

These emulsifiers are safe for use in skin careformulations.


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Ssry Wy t Us Ctiic EmulsifirsThe classic use of cationic products has been to improve conditioning properties of the hair fiber. Cationic products may also beused as O/W emulsifiers for skin care. This functional transfer of some properties from traditional hair to skin care applicationsprovides an innovative and economical platform to the formulator.The consumer demographic shift over the next fifty years will lead to more than doubling of the + segment, making this anattractive market for skin care product manufacturers. A major concern for this segment of the market is maintaining skin moisture.There are three strategies a formulator may follow to achieve this effect: the use of a skin barrier repair agent, humectants and highlipophilic loadings. Often, moisturization is achieved via high lipophilic loading. The presence of a high oil phase, however, canimpart an unpleasant oily or greasy and heavy skin feel. Cationic emulsifiers will mask these negative sensory properties, with thespecific aesthetics determined by the choice of cationic emulsifier. In general, sensory properties for these emulsions are powdery,smooth and dry.The formula in Figure was used to characterize the unique sensory profiles for Distearyldimonium Chloride and PalmitamidopropyltrimoniumChloride described above.

Cationic Lotion (ADP-5545-40)

Water . %

Sodium Chloride . %

Glycerin . %

Cationic Emulsifier . %Petrolatum . %

TEGOSOFT P (Isopropyl Palmitate) . %

TEGO Alkanol (Cetyl Alcohol) . %

ABIL (Dimethicone) . %

Preservative, Parfum q.s.

Formula

Product Type Structure [3]

VARISOFT TA Dialkyl quat

(Distearyldimonium

Chloride)

VARISOFT PATC Amidoamine quat

(Palmitamidopropyl-

trimonium Chloride)

TEGO Care CE Amidoamine quat

(Cetearyl Alcohol (and) plus fatty alcohol

Palmitamidopropyl-

trimonium Chloride)

+CH

3

CH3

(CH2)

16CH

2N CH

2(CH

2)

16CH

3CI-

CH3

+O CH

3

CH2

(CH2)

14C NH(CH

2)

3N CH

3CI-

CH3


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Frmultig wit Ctiic EmulsifirsFormulating with cationic emulsifiers is straightforward and similar to the techniques employed with the traditional nonionicemulsifiers. They can either be added to the water or the oil phase. Similar to other hydrophilic O/W emulsifiers, additionalstabilization of the formulations is achieved by incorporating consistency enhancers such as Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl

Stearate or Stearic Acid. The addition of low levels of a monovalent salt, such as Sodium Chloride, may yield improved viscosityresponse and emulsion stabilization. Polyquaterniums will also help to improve long-term emulsion stability []. Cationic emulsifiersare incompatible with anionic moieties, such as carbomers. These materials should be avoided or their use minimized.Cationic emulsion systems, as do other O/W systems, incorporate lipophilic ingredients to stabilize and provide body to theemulsion. Stabilizers in high amounts might create non-homogenous systems and could be visually not acceptable. We know fromexperiments not shown here that some formulations show increased stabilization and viscosity increase with a low amount of amonovalent salt such as Sodium Chloride.

Alictis

Dily Wr

O/W cationic emulsion systems are used in facial, hand & body, baby, foot care and first aid products on the market. The uniquesensory effects of this type of system are readily perceived by consumers and make these products well suited for daily wear toprotect and care for the skin.

Non-irritantSafe to use

Long lastingProtection

DryCold weatherStressed skinHands working with water


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Lg lstig misturiztiA comparison of the moisturizing properties of nonionic versus cationic emulsifiers was conducted by an outside laboratory. Thedata below outlines the results from a moisturization study comparing TEGIN Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate SE) against VARISOFT TA (Distearyldimonium Chloride). The moisture measurements were taken using a corneometer over a hour period using

panelists.The formula in Figure was used as the test formulation in this study.

Test lotions were applied to the back of the forearm twice a day. The amount applied was mg/cm . Corneometer readings weretaken hourly. TEGIN Pellets were selected as representative of a common emulsifier system. The results indicate that during theinitial hours of the study the TEGIN Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate SE) showed an increased performance but fast decline. In contrast,the cationic VARISOFT TA shoed long last in performance. After more than hours the cationic film showed superiorperformance. The rate of moisture loss is . times less with VARISOFT TA (Distearyldimonium Chloride). This result is most

likely due to VARISOFT TA s ability to form a substantive durable film on the skin.

Test Formulation

A Emulsifier . %


TEGOSOFT OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) . %

Petrolatum . %

B Glycerin . %

Preservative q.s.

Water ad

Figure

25

20

15

10

5

0

Moisturedifferenceto

control[mg/cm2]

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Figure : Based on Distearyldimonium Chloride

Hurs tr licti

Bsd Distryldimium Clrid Bsd Glycrl Strt SE


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Formula : O/W cationic emulsion for use in a pump foamer suited to whole bodyapplication containing VARISOFT PATC and TEGO Cosmo C

Cationic Foaming Lotion with Creatine (ADP-5545-160)

A VARISOFT PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) . %

TEGO Alkanol (Stearyl Alcohol) . %

TEGOSOFT HP (Isocetyl Palmitate) . %

TEGOSOFT DC (Decyl Cocoate) . %

TEGOSOFT TN/TN (C- Alkyl Benzoate) . %

ABIL Wax (Cetyl Dimethicone) . %B TEGO Cosmo C (Creatine) . %

Glycerin . %

Water . %

C TEGO Betain (Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine) . %

D Phenonip . %

E Citric Acid ( % in water) q.s.

Guidli rmultiSeveral formulations have been made using cationic emulsifiers in the daily wear category. This includes the use of actives:

Formula : O/W cationic emulsion containing VARISOFT TA and HyaCare

Cationic Lotion with HyaCare

(ADP-5615-194)Deionized water . %

HyaCare (Sodium Hyaluronate) . %

NaCl . %

Glycerin . %

VARISOFT TA- (Distearyldimonium Chloride) . %

Petrolatum . %

TEGOSOFT P (Isopropyl Palmitate) . %


Dimethicone . %

Preservative . %


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Mdiyig AstticsCationic emulsifiers are used as primary emulsifiers and add versatility to complex formulation needs as a secondary emulsifier.Even at low levels, the sensory profile of cationic moieties is consumer perceivable. For example, using % of a cationic emulsifierin combination with a nonionic emulsifier can impart a powdery dry feel to the system.

Formula : Skin care formula with unique sensory properties and long lasting effects

O/W Cationic Cream (F 18/03-3)

A VARISOFT TA (Distearyldimonium Chloride) . %

TEGO Care (Polyglyceryl- Methylglucose Distearate) . %

TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) . %


TEGOSOFT CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) . %

TEGOSOFT Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) . %

B Glycerin . %

Water . %

Z Preservative, Parfum q.s.

Long lasting Cationic Cream with moisturizing effect (F 18/03-5)






TEGOSOFT Liquid(Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) . %

B Glycerin . %

Water . %


Formula : O/W emulsion containing VARISOFT TA as theprimary emulsifier and TEGO Care as secondary emulsifier


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Combining a cationic emulsifier with a silicone O/W emulsifier creates an emulsion that has a

powdery velvety skin feel.

Silky Cationic Soft Cream (F 18/03-8)


ABIL Care (Bis-PEG/PPG-/ PEG/PPG/ Dimethicone; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) . %



TEGOSOFT

CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) . %TEGOSOFT Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) . %

B Glycerin . %

Water . %


Formula : O/W cationic emulsion containing TEGO Care as primary emulsifier andTEGO Care CE system as a sensory enhancer

O/W Facial Moisturizer (ADP-5615-46)

A TEGO Care CE (Cetearyl Alcohol; Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) . %



TEGOSOFT MM (Myristyl Myristate) . %

TEGOSOFT OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) . %


Apricot (Prunus Armeniaca) Oil . %

Tocopheryl Acetate . %

B Glycerin . %

Water . %C LACTIL (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol;

Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid) . %


Formula : O/W cationic emulsion containing VARISOFT PATC asthe primary emulsifier and ABIL Care as secondary emulsifier


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Formula : Skin care formula combining the protecting properties of VARISOFT TA and the unique silky skin feel of ABIL Care

O/W Silky Cationic Cream (F18/03-9)


ABIL Care (Bis-PEG/PPG-/ PEG/PPG/ Dimethicone (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) . %




TEGOSOFT Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) . %

B Glycerin . %

Water . %



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Su Cr d Pigmtd SystmsWith the increasing concern about sun induced skin damage, consumers are using sunscreens at the beach and throughout the yearto protect their skin from premature aging. Although an oily feel is acceptable for the beach, it is not acceptable for daily wear thechallenge to formulators is to develop high SPF formulas that protect the skin and wear well, but do not feel oily. Cationic emulsifiersoffer the formulator a means to achieve these benefits along with the added advantage of water resistance and sand repellency atlow usage concentrations. Data shows that the dialkyl quat, VARISOFT TA proved most effective in sand repellency experiments.

.

.

.

Gramsofsandleft

o

ntheforearm

VARISOFT TA 100 TEGO Cr PS Wit Lbl mrkt ABIL EM 90 Mrkt rductrduct wit wit DymulsCrbmr ly PGPH

Rsults t sd rllcy tst

Figure

VARISOFT TA showed the best sand repellency!


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Figure : A s trong sand-repellent formula (left)compared to a weak sand-repellent formula (right)

Formula : O/W cationic sunscreen VARISOFT TA emulsion whichillustrates sand repellency property as seen in figure

Cationic O/W Sun Cream with balanced UV protection system SPF* 18 (Ma 47/04-4)




TEGOSOFT TN (C- Alkyl Benzoate) . %

TEGOSOFT DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) . %

TEGOSOFT CR (Cetyl Ricinoleate) . %

TEGOSOFT TIS (Triisostearin) . %

TEGO Sun TDEC (Titanium Dioxide; Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl-Polyhydroxystearate) . %

Octocrylene . %

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate . %Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane . %

B Glycerin . %

Water . %



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Wtr RsistcWater resistance is an important factor in sun care formulas, especially those intended to be used at the pool or on the beach. Datafrom an in-vitro water resistance study conducted according to a protocol that is under preparation by the Latin sun screen producersgroup [] supports the benefits of cationic emulsifiers in this application.

The study evaluated the water resistance of three O/W emulsifiers and one W/O system: Ceteareth-, Polyglyceryl- Methyl-glucose Distearate, Distearyldimonium Chloride and Polyglyceryl- Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate. The filter systemused in all formulations was Menthyl Anthranilate ( %), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate ( %) and Ethylhexyl Salicylate ( %). It iswell known that O/W systems are less water resistant than W/O systems (See formulation numbers and ). This is due primarilyto O/W emulsions tendency to re-emulsify in the presence of water. But VARISOFT TA which is an O/W emulsifier doesnot show this tendency because of its strong substantivity to the skin.

The following measurements were made and the results are indicated in Figure :

Formulation Number Emulsifier Emulsion type WR* [%]

TEGINACID C

(Ceteareth-) O/W TEGO Care

(Polyglyceryl- MethylglucoseDistearate O/W

VARISOFT TA (Distearyldimonium Chloride) O/W

ISOLAN GPS(Polyglyceryl- Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate) W/O

Figure : *In-vitro water-resistance (WR) test(Optometrics SPF-S; mg/cm; on PMMA slide)

The tests are performed featured the following [] PMMA Hlioplates as substrate Stirring method in water-filled beaker In-vitro testing by the Diffey Optometrics or

the Kockott Sunscreen Tester

Under these test conditions cationic emulsions are % waterresistant without film-forming additives, and are comparable totheir W/O counterparts.


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Cationic Sun Protection Cream SPF 12/Star rating: 1 (Ma 46/04-3)




TEGOSOFT TN/TN (C- Alkyl Benzoate) . %



TEGOSOFT

TIS (Triisostearin) . %Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate . %

Ethylhexyl Salicylate . %

Menthyl Anthranilate . %

B TEGO Cosmo C (Creatine) . %

Glycerin . %

Water . %


Formula : This formulation utilizes a cationic emulsifier to alter thesensory profile of a high oil containing sunscreen.

Cationic Sun Protection Cream SPF 28/Star rating: 3 (Ma 46/04-2)


TEGIN

M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) . %TEGO Alkanol (Stearyl Alcohol) . %

TEGOSOFT TN /TN (C- Alkyl Benzoate) . %




Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate . %

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane . %

Menthyl Anthranilate . %

B TEGO Cosmo C (Creatine) . %

Glycerin . %

Water . %


Formula : This formulation utilizes a cationic emulsifier to alter the sensory profile of a high oil containing sunscreen.The cationic emulsifier also aids in maintaining a very high water resistance.


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Formula : O/W cationic emulsion containing VARISOFT PATC andTEGO Sun TDEC . The cationic emulsifier also aids inmaintaining a very high water resistance.

Formula : O/W cationic emulsion utilized both the TEGO Care CE and

VARISOFT

TA for an extra light skin feel.

Light O/W Day Cream for Men with UV Protection (ADP-5615-84)

A TEGO Care CE (Cetearyl Alcolhol (and)Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) . %

TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate ) . %

VARISOFT

TA- (Distearyldimonium Chloride) . %TEGOSOFT TN (C- Alkyl Benzoate) . %




TEGO Sun TDEC (Titanium Dioxide;Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl- Polyhydroxystearate) . %

B Glycerin . %

Water . %

C Preservative q.s.

Cationic Sun Care Cream SPF* 14 Water Resistant (CL03/06-2A)


TEGOSOFT TN (C- Alkyl Benzoate) . %



TEGO Alkanol (Cetearyl Alcohol) . %

TEGO Sun TDEC (Titanium Dioxide; Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl- Polyhydroxystearate) . %

Octocrylene . %

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate . %Ethylhexyl Salicylate . %

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane . %

B Glycerin . %

Water . %

Z Preservatives q.s.


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CclusiCationic emulsifiers offer the formulator a new tool in developing products which meet consumer demands. The unique propertiesof cationic emulsifiers enable the development of high lipophilic systems that offer enhanced consumer benefits without sacrificingaesthetics. Cationic emulsions lend a smooth powdery skin feel that nonionic and anionic emulsions do not. Applications whichbenefit from this technology include facial, hand and body, baby and foot care, sunscreens, and other systems where a non-oily,high lipophilic system is an advantage. Cationic emulsifiers offer these benefits:

Excellent emulsification Combination with co-emulsifiers offer various possibilities

to influence skin feel and absorption behavior

Long-lasting skin moisturization Water resistance properties Renewable resources Excellent cost/performance ratio

Rrcs

[] Beauty Aids Report. Chain Drug Review, January (), , .[] Jungermann, Eric. Cationic Surfactants. Marcel Dekker Inc, , .[] CTFA. . April . [] Klein, Ken. Cationic Emulsifiers: A Most Underutilized Category. Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine Vol. ,

No. (Dec), , .[] Latin Sun Screen Group, work unpublished (Status of February ).For more information about the products and additional guideline formulations go to www.evonik.com/personal-care

Formula : O/W cationic foundation utilized TEGO Care CE as sole emulsifier and lendsa powdery skin feel.

Cationic Foundation CE 1 (ADP-5615-145)

A Titanium Dioxide (micronized/silicone treated) . %

Talc (silicone treated) . %

Cyclomethicone . %

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (TEGOSOFT Liquid) . %

Polydecene . %

B Polydecene . %

Iron Oxides (micronized/silicone treated) . %

C Cyclomethicone . %Phenyl Trimethicone . %

D Glycerin . %

Water q.s.

Sodium Chloride . %

Cetearyl Alcohol; Palmitamidopropyltimonium Chloride(TEGO Care CE ) . %

Preservatives q.s.


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03/2008 Inv.-N r.: 21-08

Evonik Industries AGRellinghauser Strasse 11145128 EssenGermanyphone +49 201 177-01fax +49 201 177-3475www.evonik.com

Yur Ctct

Hdfic Evik Gldscmidt GmbHGoldschmidtstrasse 45127 EssenGermanyP.O. Box 45116 Essen

phone +49 201 173-2854 fax +49 201 173-1828

[email protected]/personal-care

Eur Frc Paris

phone +33 6 864 917 91

Si Granollers phone +34 938 642 178 fax +34 938 642 161

T BrsilAmrics So Paulo phone +55 11 314 641 00 fax +55 11 314 641 31

Asi CiShanghai

phone +86 21 611 910 00 fax +86 21 611 912 64

Itly Pandino (Cr) phone +39 037 3975 221 fax +39 037 3975 260

Cd Oakville phone +1 905 336 34 23 fax +1 905 633 75 53

IdsiBekasi Timurphone +62 21 882 83 22

fax +62 21 882 83 21

Grt BritiMilton Keynes

phone +44 1908 582 250 fax +44 1908 582 254

MicMexico City

phone + fax +52 555 673 66 49

JTokyophone +81 3 532 387 90fax +81 3 532 387 89

Scdivi Rungsted, Denmark

phone +45 449 918 00 fax +45 449 901 80

USA Hopewell phone +1 804 541 86 58 fax +1 804 541 86 89

Kr Seoul phone +82 2 207 123 00

fax +82 2 785 52 47

For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a spe-cific area of interest, please contact theEvonik Goldschmidt Head Office in Essen or contact your local representative.

This information and all further technical advice are based on Evonik Goldschmidt GmbHs present knowledge

and experience. However, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH assumes no liability for providing such information and advice

including the extent to which such information and advice may relate to existing third party intellectual property

rights, especially patent rights. In particular, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH disclaims ALL CONDITIONS AND

WARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR

A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH SHALL NOT BE

RESPONSIBLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OF

PROFITS) OF ANY KIND. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH reserves the right to make any changes according to

technological progress or further developments. It is the customers responsibility and obligation to carefully inspect

and test any incoming goods. Performance of the product(s) described herein should be verified by testing and

carried out only by qualified experts. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to carry out and arrange for any

such testing. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor an endorsement

of any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008)

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Formulating With Cationic Emulsifiers