Fit Problems and Solutions

Basic construction standardsA. Quality

1. Seams2. Seam finishes3. Closures4. Hems5. Facings6. Sleeves/cuffs7. Collars

B. Fit and/or function1. Garment fit2. Function of apparel item

Vocabulary

Hook and Loop Tape FacingHook and Bar SnapsBound (Hem or Seam) Finish NapClipping Pinked FinishGrading HemNotching WaistbandTrimming Turned and Stitched FinishInterfacing (different weights and uses)Easing Gathering Casing CuffUnder stitching

Quality of Seam Construction

Seams in manufacturing should have at

least a ½” seam allowance AppearanceAppearance BulkBulkFinishFinish FullnessFullnessPlacementPlacement PressingPressingReinforcedReinforced Stitch Stitch

lengthlengthTensionTension ThreadThreadWidthWidth

Reducing Bulk in Seams for Proper Fit

Clip inside curve to allow seam to lie flat.Notch outside curve to eliminate bulkTrim outside corner to eliminate bulk Trim seam to eliminate bulkGrade seam to eliminate bulk, eliminate

ridge from showing on right side

Quality of Seam FinishesSeam Finishes - finish according to

fabric, design, and use of garment

AppearanceAppearance of seam finishes should be flat & smooth with no raveling

Types of Seam Finishes

UnfinishedUnfinished

PinkedPinked

Edge stitchedEdge stitched

ZigzagZigzag

Quality of Seam Finishes continued

Hand overcastHand overcastClean or Turned and StitchedClean or Turned and StitchedDouble stitchedDouble stitchedBoundBoundSergedSerged

Quality of Closures (including zippers)

Hook & Loop Tape – a "hook" side, which is piece of fabric covered with tiny plastic hooks & "loop" side, which is covered in equally tiny plastic loops

Hook & Bar – Two-piece metal fastening

Snaps – Metal fasteners

Quality of Closures (including zippers)

AppearanceAppearanceCoveringCoveringPlacementPlacementReinforcedReinforcedSpacingSpacingStitchingStitchingSuitableSuitable

Quality of Closures

ButtonsReinforcedReinforced ShankShankSizeSize SpacingSpacingStitchingStitching TypeTypeButtonholesAppearanceAppearance GrainGrainLengthLength PlacementPlacement

SpacingSpacingWidthWidth

Hems should hang parallel to floor. To hem, cut edges are folded up, folded

up again, then sewed down. Cut edges are

enclosed in cloth, so that they can't ravel

AppearanceAppearanceEaseEaseHand stitchingHand stitchingPressingPressingSeamsSeamsTopstitchingTopstitchingWidthWidth

Interfacings & Under stitching

Interfacing Interfacings can be used to:Stiffen or add body (crispness) to

fabricStrengthen a certain area of the

fabricKeep fabrics from stretching out of

shapeUnder stitching ensures that a facing

won't roll to the outside of your garment.

A Facing is the area of a garment or sewn item that turns to the inside, giving a finished appearance to what would otherwise just be a raw edge of fabric. The facing is usually interfaced to add shape to the edge of the fabric.

FacingsAppearanceAppearance - flat, smooth, not visible from outside

Bulk Bulk - seams graded, curves clipped and/or notched

Edge FinishEdge Finish - appropriate to fabric; Facing edges free from ravelling (NO RAW EDGES)

SecuringSecuring – under stitched where appropriate; tacked only at seam allowances and darts or stitch-in-the ditch method used where appropriate (as on shoulder seam)

WidthWidth - even unless pattern requires variation

SleevesAppearanceAppearanceBulkBulkEaseEaseGathersGathersPressingPressingReinforcedReinforcedSeam FinishSeam FinishSeamsSeams

Sleeves can be finished hems, cuffs, or casings

A Cuff is the lower edge of a sleeve (or pant leg) turned back to show an ornamental border Cuffs should fit comfortably around

wristsAppearanceAppearanceBulkBulkInterfacingInterfacingGrainGrainShapeShapeWidthWidth

Collars

CollarsAppearanceAppearanceBulkBulkGrainGrainInterfacingInterfacingShapeShape Under stitchingUnder stitching

Fit and/or Function

- WEARING EASE - Adequate ease for comfort

- Fitting details (neckline, armhole, waistline)

- Silhouette lines follow silhouette of body- Lengthwise grainline perpendicular to

floor; crosswise grainline parallel to floor. - Hems are parallel to the floor- Darts point to & stop short of fullest part

of area they fit- Free from strain and/or excess fullness

Fit and/or Function cont’d

- Waistbands should not bind or fit too tightly & should fall in correct position on body (waist, low rise etc.)

- Crotch should be smooth, flat, free from pulling or drawing when sitting or bending.

- Nap consists of fibers on the fabric surface that lie in one direction.