A Summer Internship Project Report on

Role of merchandiser

At

Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.

Department of Fashion Management Studies

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur

(Ministry of Textiles, Govt. Of India)

Submitted by -

Rohit kumar

MFM Batch

(2013-15)

DECLARATION

I, ROHIT KUMAR hereby declare that the internship project entitled “Role of

Merchandiser at Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd. In Apparel Fashion” submitted

towards, partial fulfillment of the Degree of Master of Fashion Management is

my original work and no part of project has been copied from any other reports

or any other work carried by someone else which has been submitted for any

other degree. However, any material taken from any other published source has

been suitably referred and acknowledged at various palaces.

Name: Rohit Kumar

Roll Number: 2013125

Batches: MFM (2013-2015)

Center: NIFT Jodhpur

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Upon completion of this project, I would like to express my gratitude towards the

supervisor of this project Ms. Shikha Gupta for the opportunity to do summer

internship. I am very grateful to Mr. Rohit sir for providing me opportunity to

work in and get training in Shahi Export. Further, I am also extremely indebted

to my Mentor Ms. Shikha Gupta, who guided me,. I would also express my

sincere gratitude to Shahi Export and staff members. I want to express my

appreciation to all those with whom I worked. Interacted and whose thoughts

and insists helped me in increasing my knowledge and understanding of

working in an organization.

I feel great pleasure in presenting my high obligation to Mr. Rohit Sharma

(DMM) who gave me the opportunity to undergo training at Shahi Export Pvt.

Ltd.

I acknowledge them with great sense of gratitude to Ms. Chetna Chugh

(Merchandiser) and Mr. Mohit Malhotra (Sample Co ordinator) (my training

guides) for providing their esteemed guidance and knowledge to help me in

training.

Finally, I owe my thanks to faculty members and Training & Placement

Department of FMS of National Institute of Fashion Technology, Jodhpur for

helping me to get through the summer training at this esteemed Organization.

Signature of student

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ABSTRACT

This project is aimed at to understand merchandising process & role of the

merchandiser. It begins with the introduction of the company i.e. company profile.

Including introduction of the company, its plant location, capacity, history,

financial turn over giving idea of Exports at Shahi Exports

The merchandiser’s role & merchandising process in Shahi Exports

It provides the detail on the objective: A view of different departments

working in synchronization in order to process an export order.

Giving a brief idea on the merchandisers & what role they play and

merchandising role in Shahi exports.

In the final a brief summary of all the documents used at the Shahi for export

order is given and stages of sample in merchandise department from sourcing to

production of product comprising of quality process and costing of product.

It has been a great learning outcome from doing the internship by knowing the

working of the export house how the merchandiser makes the sample, how to

do costing of the garment providing the schedule of the process till the shipment

through time and action calendar and negotiate and fulfilling the requirement of

the buyer.

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TABLE OF CONTENT

Sr. No. Content Page No.

1. Introduction 06

2. Company overview 09

3. Major clients 12

4. Various department of Shahi Exports 13

5. Role of merchandiser 14

6. Division of work in merchandise department 15

7. Stages of Sample in merchandise department 21

8. Sourcing of Raw Material 28

9. Cutting Department 34

10. Stitching Department 37

11. Finishing Department 38

12. Quality process 41

13. Costing and calculations 50

14. Documentation for shipment 58

15. Care labelling 59

16. Learning Outcomes 61

17. Conclusion 62

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INTRODUCTION

MERCHANDISING

The process of planning, developing and presenting product lines for identified

target markets is called merchandising with regard to pricing, assorting, styling

and timing

3 main components of merchandising

– Line planning

– Line development

– Line presentation

–

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Merchandising

Product KnowledgeMarket Knowledge

Planning&Control

Documentation&presentations

Costing and negotiation

Interface with Suppliers

Sourcing & Material management

Interface with buyer

Fashion merchandising is the promotion of apparel sales and involves all of the

tasks necessary to deliver the clothing requests and meet the needs of potential

customers and designers. Developing campaigns, displays and advertisements,

directing manufacturing and marketing, and creating sales strategies are all part

of the job.

Export Merchandising

Merchandising has been to a large extent a function which was never clearly

defined not distinctly performed in the Indian Apparel export industry of old. On

one hand the merchandiser had the job of getting orders and had to execute

them; doing the role of production coordinator in the same breath, whilst for

others the job was only follow up of the confirmed orders. The merchandisers

had often been used as glorified clerks with the job focusing on passing the

information received from one source to another without any ‘value addition ‘to

it. In the burgeoning market of apparel exports 80`s, Merchandising function

was often assigned to fresh graduated of any discipline who were capable of

responding to the queries of the customers in the English language. No other

qualification was largely sought from them as the work was primarily

decentralized and the merchants needed little technical knowledge. But the

dependency on the technicians was inevitable.

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OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT

1) To understand the working of various departments in Export House.

2) To understand the role of Merchandisers from acquiring orders till shipment in

an Export House.

METHODOLOGY

During the internship the basic key knowledge is gain through practical training

in Shahi Export in Faridabad. The report is made by collecting the information

and document from Shahi Export. And by the personal experience gain in the

Shahi Export’s sampling department. In first week got introduction to company

and its various departments. In second week worked under the merchandiser

following her and got knowledge about the sequence of work to be follow while

producing sample and production of mock .Third and Forth week involved in

production of size set sample of two different styles. Fifth week learned

shipment of samples to buying house and production of preproduction sample

with the instruction by RND. Learned about various departments and started

performing like merchant. Sixth week involved in making production file and

handling over sample for production to production department and started

working on new style. Seventh and eighth week learned to develop proto

sample , fit sample size set sample and communication with buyer and supplier

and the costing and planning of work

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COMPANY’S OVERVIEW

HISTORY

A Shahi export was born in 1974 in Delhi. Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd.  is engaged in

the manufacture and export of readymade garments in the International

market.  It is one of the largest export houses in India.  The company started its

operations in the form of a small fabrication unit with the help of 25

machines.  The Company has grown from leaps to bounds from a simple

fabrication unit to present turnover of USD.500 million, around 66000

employees and spread over 38 locations. It has manufacturing units in six

different states of India viz. Delhi, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu,

Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.   

The Group is into manufacturing of a wide range of Men’s and Ladies wear and also in Home

products. SHAHI group has all the modern units equipped with state-of-the-art technology

giving the best to its buyers. Its manufacturing facilities includes Assembly Line Machines,

Prima Vision system for print / fabric development, Meyer Fusing Press, Barudan and Tajima

Multi Head Computerized Embroidery Machine, GGT International Pattern Grading Machines,

in House Washing Plant, Automatic cutting machines (F.K.Systems).

Production Capacity : 8.5 million -9 million units. per month

Production Lead Time : 60 / 75 / 90 / 120 days

Turnover of shahi in yr 2012-13 : 2750 crore

Estimated Turnover of shahi in yr

2014: 3200 crore

Special Machines/Facalities

:

Embroidery unit - two Barudan machines,

Pigment garment dyeing washing capability

offering special wash finishes on knitted

garments produced in fine auto-stripes,

jacquards, interlock and jersey.

Name of the Company : SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD

Address : Industrial Plot No1 Sector-28,

9

Faridabad ,Haryana,India-121008

Telephone No : 0129-2273980/4044444

Fax No : 0129-2273485

Email

Website:

delhi@shahi.co.in

http://www.shahi.co.in

Primary products

:

Blouses ,denim, dresses, T-shirt,

Jackets/Blazers, Outdoor jackets , scarves,

jewellery, trousers sweat/jersey vests , knits,

leather garment, handbags, belts

Factory established in year 1999

Total no of employees in Faridabad

Unit5845

Nature of Business :Manufacturers & Exporters of Woven & Knit

Apparel.

Chairman : Mrs. Sarala Ahuja

Directors :Mr.Harish Ahuja, Mr. Girish Ahuja,Mr

Subhash tiwari

Date of Establishment : 14th May 1986

Contact Executives :

Mr. Rajesh Bhatt

Email: rajesh.bhatt@shahi.co.in

Ms.Sheetal Khanna

Email: sheetal.khanna@shahi.co.in

Mission

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o Be the most preferred competitive global supplier of apparel.

o Be the most preferred employer in the industry.

o Be a learning organization to improve & excel.

Vision

“Be the global best in bringing delight to human life by weaving dreams of

fashion & feelings of comfort”.

Values

o Customer delight

o Integrity & ethics

o Respect for human values

o Nurturing human talent

o Continuous improvement

CORPORATE VALUES

"Guiding principles illuminate the path that leads to our destination.”

 SHAHI emphasizes on some guiding principles, which are indicative of the

values it believes in and would like to continue in the organization.  These are

the building blocks for our Organizational Culture:  

The company believes in

o       High level of honesty and sense of responsibility.  

o       Two-way communication channel for all purposes of communication.

o       In sharing the fruit of growth, prosperity with its partners i.e. the employees. 

o       In giving each individual room to contribute and grow. 

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The company firmly believes that Team Spirit is the Hallmark of success.  

MAJOR CLIETS

1. Target

2. Gap

3. H&M

4. Tommy Hilfigers

5. J.C Penny

6. Kohls

7. Impulse

8. Streetone

9. S.Oliver

10. DKNY

11. Next

12. Old navy

13. Ann Taylors

14. Walmart

15. Espirit

16. Federated

17. Debenhams

18. J. Crew

19. Abercrombrie & Fitch

20. UCB

21. Levi’s

22. Bonita

23. Calvin Klein

24. Guess

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VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS OF SHAHI EXPORTS

Merchandising Department

Sampling Department

Quality control Department

Production Planning and Control Department

Fabric & trims Sourcing Department

Fabric Store and Inspection Department

Trims Store and inspection Department

Purchase Department

HR Department

Accounts finance department

Industrial Engineering Department

Computer Aided Design Department

Computerized Embroidery Department

Cutting Department

Sewing Department

Washing Department

Finishing Department

Packing and Dispatch Department

Shipping Department

Each department in the company works together, that is it works hand in

hand.

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ACTIVITIES UNDERTAKEN

ROLE OF MERCHANDISER IN SHAHI

Role of Merchandisers in apparel export house

o Key link between the factory and customer.

o Communicating the customer demands

o To ensure and assure quality

o Optimally using capabilities of the export house by generating enough

profitable business

Role of merchandisers in ensuring Quality

o Provide correct and clear information on time to relevant departments

o Ensure fabric quality

o On time sealer sample availability

o Timely preparation of budget for fabric and trims

o Make sure to get the sources of accessories and fabric at as early as

sampling stage of the styleo Ensure timely trims arrival

o Ensure right time submission to buyer to save time and reputation

o Ensure timely approval from buyers

o Identify possible problem in style and the ways to avoid them

o Discuss the style, its target with production team

o Conduct / be present for in –line inspection to anticipate defects and

avoidance of the same in the future

Role of Merchandiser in customer Satisfaction

o Track customer satisfaction level on regular basis through structured

formatso Identify the gaps in customer satisfaction by analysing the customer

complaints or routine communicationo Customer feedback in the final inspection report by the customer

o Acquire knowledge on problem solving techniques

o Identify factors that will delight the customer.

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DIVISION OF WORK IN MERCHANDISE/ MARKETING

DEPARTMENT

Four main divisions is done in Shahi

1. Product Development (PD)

2. Merchandising

3. Production

4. Documentation

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Product development

Through Designers Through Buyers

Through Designers

Designers create new design and showcase for buyer. After buyer review they

select and advice to develop the liked design as it is or with some modification

like change in fabric, lace, button, minor design change or even with reduce

price, quality of fabric and trim

Through buyer

Buyer provides their own techpak and accordingly asks for sample

development. After receiving the sample some time they do change or if liked

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as it is they place order but very important is costing. Sometime costing meet an

issue so Buyer reduce trims and fabric quality change

Now after the design and cost is approved by Buyer the samples are produced

for that design and these samples are called as Sales Man Sample (SMS).

Sales Man Sample

Merchandiser produces 10 to 50 Sales Man Sample in Base size as per Buyer

requirement and send to buyer. Its goes to market as per customer like Buyer

place order , sometime same design or may be with minor change.

Than the merchandiser part start

MERCHANDISING

Merchandiser receive receipt of PO ( purchase order) , they check

price ,quantity& colours

1. System entry is done by merchant

Than CO(Customer Order) creation by merchant and send request to DMM for

initial CO approval than DMM approve CO or can say for revise PO and again

CO is made, than DMM do final CO entry and send for Approval and sended for

documentation

2.Trim development , approval taken from buyer than order is placed to Supplier

then the trim are done I/H (in house) then trims go in production

3. Fabric development: it’s a very curial and important step in production

process as maximum cost of product or garment is of fabric. So first

Design sheet is made is computer for approval for check for example yarn dye

plaid is made

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In this colours are mentioned intensity of colour is mentioned. Which colour yarn

should be used in which place everything is clearly mention. This is sended for

approval first to buyer for production of or development of fabric.

In the same way fabric prints are sended for approval

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Computerized Printout of Fabric Print

If buyer approve the design than he may ask for sample for approved colour or

all colours or may say to make change also, by making minor or major changes

then after making change again the print approval is taken from buyer .

After the print approval, supplier makes a desk loom for buyer or merchant

Desk loom is small swatch piece which show the real concept of fabric and how

the actual fabric will look like in actual colour made by actual printing machine

or at actual loom

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Digital fabric printing machine making desk loom

Actual Deskloom

Deskloom for yarn die plaid

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After desk loom approval, buyer asks for Yardage.

Yardage is 5 to 15 meters of fabric suppliers send to merchant for approval.

Now here for solid colours is called as lab dip and for prints it is called strike

off

Merchandiser sends L/D or S/Offs to buyer for approval. They may ask for

change in colour of print or they may or may not approve the L/D also. Buyer

give comments also like colour is too yellowish correct it etc.

Then again changes are made until signoff received. Signoff is the final

approved fabric by buyer. Here buyer also asks for FPT as per their norms and

standard. Buyer gives the list of tests he want to be done on fabric.

After signoff the fabric is ordered and in housed my merchant

Now according to the techpack given by buyer the sample are produced

FPT and fabric tests are explained later in Quality process

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STAGES OF SAMPLE IN MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

This are the different samples made at different stages merchandising process

and after the approval or getting comment and after correction next sample is

produced.

Mock stage: It is a rough layout of the sample which the company is

going to produce. This is made by merchandiser to show the buyer

1. What type of workmanship the company is doing.

2. How the style will look like

3. What are the procedures which merchandiser is going to follow in

production

4. To show certain parts for example collar mock, neck placket

mock.

Mock is produce by merchandiser to show the buyer for the approval of

certain design, the changes which buyer want in certain design that look

good or not etc.

Proto stage: after the approval of the mock the merchandiser produce 3

to 4 proto sample which is a complete garment having all the

characteristic and changes which buyer want ,this may or may not be

made on approved final fabric , as this only made to show the final

garment design which is follow-up by approved mock ,in this the seams

and stitches are made according to buyer requirement ,merchandiser

calculate the consumption of raw material and jot down the procedures

which are carried out in the production of that garment so that he can do

costing accordingly. At this stage the first costing is done by

merchandiser. This costing is tentative as the sample is replica of the

final garment and even at this stage nothing is finalised.one sample

merchandiser make as his counter sample one is send to buying house

and one to the buyer.

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Sales man sample stage: 10 to 50 sample are made according to buyer

requirement. The buyer asked for this sample because he sells this style

in his store & records the selling of the new style. & if this style is good

moving then he gives bulk order, decides quantity, by size & colour wise

break up for the style. In SMS original fabric & trims are used. In SMS

sample its not just that garment is stitched and sended to the buyer. In

SMS also all the procedure which the production follower are done

accordingly. Sample is not only cut stitched and finished and costing is

done, here also the testing and quality checking is done. As the sample

is not experiment it is also sold to final consumer. Approval for SMS is

really crucial to any company. At this stage again costing is done this

costing is base for getting order from buyer as uptil now the buyer did not

place final order so costing and all procedure followed at this stage is

very crucial.

Fit sample stage: Twice or thrice merchandiser make counter or fit

sample until buyer is fully satisfied with the fit of the sample. This sample

is made exactly with the same fabric or trims. The dummy may be

provided by the buyer or made by the export house is very important at

this stage. As this sample is tested for dummy fit. The size of dummy is

also according to the buyer standards and not all dummy can be used for

all buyers, as every country and even every buyer has its own set

standards which are provided before to merchandiser as Buyer manual.

Size set sample stage: In production merchandiser make jump sizes to

check pattern is correct for bulk cutting. The purpose of the size set is to

check fit of the garment in different sizes.in this stage company develops

samples in multiple sizes like 36, 38 and 42 . The buyer check size set

sample and give feedback to company if anything need to be corrected.

Sealer sample stage: the base size sample is made after doing the

changes as per buyer requirement and sended to buyer. After the buyer

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give approval. The sample is sealed for production on this merchant right

comment which is to be taken care while production and this sample

must be perfect or correct. This is the sample which represents the final

requirement of the buyer and no changes are made after that .this

sample along with production file sended to the production unit. As uptil

now all the raw material likes fabric trims packaging etc. things are

already in house for production.

Sealer Sample

Pre-production sample stage : All the above samples are made in

sampling department. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample)

to be made in actual production line, so that operators know what are

they going to make. This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and

accessories and made by sewing line tailors.  PP sample must be

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approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons) prior

to proceeding actual production.  

 

TOP sample stage: Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in

the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP

sample. All buyers do not ask for TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check

whether factory is following PP sample specification or not.

Production

File is made for giving in production in which everything is clearly mentioned

o PSD sheet(Project Style Details)

o Fabric count/ construction, FBC Lots

o Threads(shade no, ticket no, tex no) for all operations

o EMB thread

o Trim card (labels and buttons)

o Final mini marker

Shell

Lining /Pocketing

Fusing

o Operation Bulletin

o Final teck pack

o Buyer PO Sheet

o 2-Sealed Sample

o EMB placement /Approved mock or Swatch

o Approved FBC swatch

o Approved Fusing Swatch with detail

o Base pattern

o Final Grading Sheet

o Thread consumption report

o FPT all Clear

o GPT all Clear

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o Washing Details + wash STD

o Ironing Detail

o Packing Instruction

o TNA

o FAB for R&D

In time action plan merchandiser gives time to production to make bulk. As

delivery is very important .Production need to plan shipment as per delivery

date.

Documentation

Merchant have to inform documentation department 10 to 15 days before

shipment of style. They talk to forwarders for shipment date and plan domestic

transport than through Ship or Air Shipment.

Other Documents used in merchandising process

The following are the documents used in course of the process.

Marker request

Pattern request

Sample request

TRS (Trims Requisition)

FRS (Fabric Requisition)

Work order

Purchase order

o Fabric PO

o Trims PO

Purchase Invoice

FPT (Fabric packaging test report)

GPT (Garment packaging test report)

The document or form is filled in the CRM to which is also called PO which

comprise of Marker Request, Pattern request and Sample Request. Sample

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request comprise of all the process required for producing the sample that is

from washing the fabric to pressing to cutting stitching finishing and packing.

Trim Requisition and fabric requisition is a form which merchant fill and request

the store operator to issue as per requirement. This is hand written and signed

by merchant. Work order or operation bulletin is made by IT department for

calculation of SAM and also for the number of operator required for the

fulfilment of producing the garment. Example of one of the operation bulletin is

attached in Annexure. PO means purchase order it is a sheet given by buyer

which depict the total quantity required with specification of style no and colour

or any addition requirements .Fabric PO ensure the quality and quantity with

specification of colour and print required by merchant for production. Purchase

Invoice is actually a bill in which quantity and price with design code is written.

FPT &GPT is the most important document for any export house, these are the

test report which is attached to the document for shipment, given to the buyer,

and even needed by export house to ensure its quality, this is very important as

the export has to ensure the government that the product they are shipping to

the other country is as per the rules of that country and requirement of the

buyer.

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Sample production by merchant

Sample production

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Sourced fabric, trim for sample

Tech pack given to CAD for pattern making

Tech pack given for SAM calculation

RFD /cotton fabric etc dip washed for shrinkage

Pattern given for plotting

Costing is done by merchandiser

PO is made

PO given for in work

Pattern and fabric given for cutting

Cutting ,trims given for stitching

Garment send to finishing /wash if requied

Garment given to QA for final check and dummy check

GPT

FPT

Buyer approval

SOURCING OF RAW MATERIAL

Two most important things before production are

Sourcing of trim and

Sourcing of fabric

The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims.

On the other hand we can say that which materials are directly attached with

the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like: Threads, buttons, lining,

Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc. (Interlining is used as shape forming

/ preserving materials.)Trims are sourced before production trims are order

according to the requirement. Every trim has its own unique way to buy and

prices and Quality inspection techniques for example thread are bought on

scale of tex or tickets. Button are bought in Goss and weight, zippers and laces

are bought length wise and labels are bought numerically according to the need

or requirement

SL Trims SL Accessories1 Label (S) 1 Poly bag2 Button 2 Elastic bag3 Zipper 3 Mini Poly bag4 Padding 4 Master Carton5 Interlining 5 Inner carton6 Down 6 Size clip7 Elastic 7 P. P. band8 Thread 8 Tag pin9 Twill Tape 9 Brass pin10 Stopper 10 Collar stand11 String/ Draw Cord 11 Safety pin12 Piping Cord 12 Gum tape13 Emblem 13 Arrow sticker14 Logo print 14 Scotch tape15 D-Ring 15 Barcode Sticker16 Swivel Hook 16 Defect indicator

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17 Eyelet/ Grommet 17 Tissue paper18 Collar Stay 18 Back board19 Cord Bell 19 Neck board20 Buckle 20 Butterfly21 Rivet 21 Numbering stickers22 Weaving belt 22 Hanger23 Hook & Eye 23 Size sticker

24 Velcro tape 24 Carton pad

25 Seam sealing tape 25 Both side tape

26 Shoulder pad 26 Plastic staple

27 Cable (Steel ware) 27 Iron seal

28 Adjuster 28 Clip

29 Recco 29 Ball Chain

30 Elastic Threads 30 Size Tag

31 Shoulder Tape 31 Carton Sticker

32 Safety Sticker

33 Plastic clip

The most important and crucial part of garment production is sourcing of fabric.

As fabric supply decides and disturbs the time and action plan, cost of the

garment and all the process of production. According to the style and purchase

order quantity the fabric is order to the supplier or vendor. In Shahi they have

their own fabric production company that is Sarla fabric and there are other

vendors who suuply fabric to Shahi export like

Karma process

RMP

BVM

Jagdamba

fabric

Shahi dyeing

Shivam

Devansh

City TEX

Aayushi Fabric

R.S Expo

G.G Fashion

Poorani Fab

SVT

Dhuhil

International

SRS Fabric

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Fabric is supplied by the vendors, proper charts are maintained for the vendor

supplies the time of order and delivery dates.

The order quantity and time of delivery is noted in the software when the

fabric is IN/Housed and and at what place it is placed. Before storing the

fabric in the store the fabric is tested for its quality different production

houses use different technique and scales the SHAHI EXPORT follow 4

point system. Fabric if come in small quantity than the lots is checked

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manually.

And if the lots are large then they have a checking machine.

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Here the fabric is checked for different defects mark it with stickers and also

not it down in files. According to the vendors Shahi has some acceptable

standards also. Defects which mainly come in fabrics are

Weaving defect

Contamination

Stitch mark

Needle mark

Wrong yarn

Loops

Stop mark

Missing pick

Reed mark

Missing end

Slub

Yarn slippage

Finishing defect

Smash

Handling stain

Pin hole

Miss pleating

Yarn pulling

Distortion

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As the fabric is physically checked some swatches is given to laboratory for

FPT. There different test are performed on fabric according to shahi and

buyer requirements and if the fabric pass all the test then only it is in

housed and use for our requirements.

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FABRIC STORE PROCESS

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FOR SARLA FABRIC *100% Inspection by Shahi

QA team

8

FOR SARLA FABRIC *100% Inspection by Shahi

QA team

8

FOR POWER LOOM FABRIC *10% Inspection *100% shade lot

FOR POWER LOOM FABRIC *10% Inspection *100% shade lot

Passed fabric is moved to passed location

Passed fabric is moved to passed location

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Fabric is issued from fabric store and given to cutting department her before

spreading fabric is washed for shrinkage if required than it is steam pressed if

required than is spread to spreading table according to the marker made.

Spreading of fabric is done both mechanically and by machine according to the

requirement. Spreading of solid cotton is mainly done by machine as not much

complication are there in solid fabric and the spreading time reduce to 1/10 by

mechanics by spreading machine so its cost and time effective

Spreading requirement

Shade Sorting

Correct ply direction and

adequate lay stability

Ply alignment

Correct ply tension

Elimination of fabric faults

Than marker is passed which is already design by CAD in a most cost effective

manner and according to the features of fabrics including fabric defects

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Then the marker is attached to fabric my pins and tape. After that the fabric is

cut my portable knife or by stationary knife by the experience worker

Mainly small pieces are cut by stationary cutter for better result.

Another method in Shahi is automized cutting machine which reduces the time

and is most effective as the error is less in automized cutting machine.

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After cutting each pattern or bundle are ticketed, in each ticket style no. ,chalan

no and lot no and size no is mentioned clearly so that no confusion occurs in

production.

After ticketing the bundles are made according to the style number size number

and lot number which is then send to the stitching department or embroidery or

printing department as per requirement.

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STITCHING DEPARTMENT

Bundles of cutting came to stitching room with trims and samples.QA came and

tell the requirement and give adequate instructions to the stitching line

supervisors.

In Shahi each line have 16 to 20 stitching master over to them there are 1 to 2

supervisors. Sheetal madam merchandise and production unit have 2 lines

allotted. Line division is very necessary and is done according to the order

quantity. The biggest the order quantity the more is the no of lines u get. All

these arrangements are planned by the merchandiser.

In sampling unit each stitching master on an average stitch two garment in a

day and on an average 25 to 30 unit of garment in one line depending upon

difficulty level of the garment.

Shahi has all needed and specialised machine to make quality garments. Shahi

has following sewing machine

Single needle lock/chain stitch

Double needle lock/chain stitch

3 thread overlock / pearl hem

Four thread overlock

Five thread overlock

Six thread overlock

Flat lock machine

Smocking machine

Pintek machine

Fagotting machine

Peko machine

Blind hem

Computerized zig zag machine

Feed of farm ( for side stitch)

Shahi has 1000 operator and 1500 stitching machine

Other machines which the stitching department have are as follows

Collar turning machine

Belt making machine

Profile cutter

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FINISHING DEPARTMENT

Garment after stitching send to finishing as per operation bulletin. Then in

finishing garment is send for checking first where the checker see the sizes and

if any major defect exist in garment then garment is rejected and send to QA for

inspecting the cause of defect .if minor defect is diagnosed or detected than the

garment is send for alteration . All garments are not checked fully it up to

checker .QA randomly select the garment and check it. Than the garment is

marked for kajh and given for kajh making or as per processes planed . Than

buttons is tucked than thread cutting first where all extra thread are cut .After

that garment is send to spotting table or washing where spots are removed.

In addition to finishing processes on textile garments would undergo washing

processes that give them different handle or special color effects. The washing

technique has developed and expanded considerably to become a finishing

process of its own.

The most common equipment is the rotary drum type garment washer. The most

popular item by far in garment washing is indigo denim jeans but there is an

increasing trend for other casual wear items to be finished using this process.

There are a number of different washing techniques commonly used and the basic

procedures where the garments are washed are described in the following

Traditional garment wash

This elevated temperature to yield a soft hand. In case of jeans made from

indigo or sulphur slasher-dyed denims, it is necessary to remove the sizes (e.g.,

starch) by an enzyme (amylase) desizing treatment. Colour fading will be

occurred and the degree will depend on the treatment conditions, such as time,

temperature and liquor ratio of washing bath.

Stone wash

To accelerate the washing effect, pumice or volcanic stones can be added for

abrasion purposes. There are available today man-made stones of various

sizes and shapes. When compared with the traditional garment wash, colour

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fading is more pronounced but less uniform. In addition to the treatment

conditions as described for traditional garment wash, the degree of colour

fading and change of garment hand feel depends very much on the stone ratio

to fabric weight which can vary from 0.5 to 3: 1.

'White' washes

This category of washing technique is a variation of basic stone wash procedure

and is normally applied to indigo-dyed jeans but can also be applied to other

vat-, sulphur-or reactive-dyed garments. It can further be divided into two major

groups according to its application methods.

The first involves the use of strong oxidizing agents such as sodium

hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for bleaching the garments. The use

of these agents is to obtain a much lighter shade than the previous two

methods. Excess oxidizing agents must be removed after washing to prevent

yellowing and tendering of the washed jeans.

In the second group of methods, the pumice stones are first pre-soaked in a

solution of strong oxidizing agent (either sodium hypochlorite or potassium

permanganate) and are applied to the garments by dry-tumbling. This will result

in a localized washing effect with clear blue/white contrast. This is also termed

as 'acid wash', 'snow wash' or 'ice wash'.

Enzyme washes

Cellulose enzymes are commonly used in this washing method. These

enzymes differ from that of amylase, used for removal of starches, in that they

are only selective to cotton of other cellulosic materials. Hydrolysis of the

cellulose causes the fiber to become weaker and depending on the degree of

treatment, some surface fibers will be removed when subjected to fabric-to-

fabric or fabric-to-stone abrasive action. This washing method tends to produce

a more level treatment especially when no stones are added during treatment

and the general appearance and hand feel are superior to those of the other

methods.

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Then again garments are send to spotting where spots are removed. Than

garment is send for ironing .different type of iron is done according to the

garment and fabric type like

Hard iron

Soft iron with steam

Steam iron

After iron garment is send to final checking where thread ,finishing and all

features are finally checked than garment is packed as per buyer requirement

and some garment sample are send to the lab for GPT.

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QUALITY PROCESS

Quality Lab

Equipment necessary to ensure basic parameters of fabrics is available in the

in-house laboratory. There technically-qualified and competent quality control

personnel make sure that international quality standards and norms are

rigorously adhered to.

List of Machines in Lab

PHYSICAL TESTING

Tensile Strength Tester

POSSIBILITY OF TESTS : 

Strip & Grab Strength

Single Yarn Strength

Tear Test

Button/Snap Pull Test

Seam Slippage

Zipper Strength

Peel Bond Strength

Stretch & Recover

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Fabric Thickness Gauge

Specialized equipment to determine the thickness of fabrics.

Latest model with modern aesthetics.

Maximum capacity 10mm & accuracy 0. 01mm.

Portable & handy to carry anywhere.

Smooth precision-engineered components for accurate results.

Analog dial for measuring thickness in millimetres.

Supplied with two pressure feet of different size for different type of

fabrics.

A standard Dead weight is provided with the instruments for accurate

result.

Crease Recovery Angle Tester

Crease Recovery Tester determines the property of textiles to recover from

creases by measurement of the recovery angle. Crease Recovery Tester at B-

Tex Engineering is calibrated and of fine quality.

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The specimen is first creased under specified load for fixed time and is then

transferred to the measurement device, where one end of the specimen is held

in a spring loaded clamp and other is allowed to fall free under its own weight.

Now one need to read the scale fixed to moving clamp to know the deflection of

the clamped end from the horizontal. This angle gives the measure of the

Crease Recovery Angle.

Beasley Balance

Beasley Balance is used to measure direct yarn count

Pilling tester

Pilling Tester is designed to test the pilling (hair ball) characteristic of fabric and

knit fabric cloths. Simulating the condition of when weaving materials are worn,

it will have the appearance of lint. After rolling the specimen around a rubber

tube and turning in a winding box for a period of time, it is then compared to a

standard picture to determine its grade. Test results are usually determined

after comparing with standard pictures, the average of four tests per specimen.

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Thread count for reed/pick

Projection microscope

The projection microscope is the standard method for measuring wool fibre

diameter, and all other methods have to be checked for accuracy against it. The

method is also applicable to any other fibres with a circular cross-section

Martindale abrasion tester

To determine the abrasion and pilling resistance of all kinds of textile structures.

Samples are rubbed against known abradents at low pressures and in

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continuously changing directions and the amount of abrasion or pilling is

compared against standard parameters. 

Crock-o- meter

Crock –o-meter is also known as Rubbing fastness tester and is used to

measure color fastness of fabric on rubbing. This test is designed for

determining the degree of colour which may be transferred from the surface of

coloured materials to other surfaces by rubbing. The machine takes its name

from the term ‘crocking’ meaning the transfer of colouring matter or other

substances from the test sample to a wet or dry cloth rubbed against it

MBTL Light fastness tester

MBTL fading lamp is used in order to determine colour fastness of textiles

against sunlight

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Tear strength tester

Perspiro meter

Sublimation fastness tester

Digital incubator

Twist tester

Wrap reel

IFB front –loaded washing machine for shrinkage

Testing’s Carried out in Laboratory

The following tests are performed at various stages to ensure that the finished

product conforms to specifications. Physical Section

Fiber

Fiber Identification

Blend Percentage

Maturity of Cotton

Yarn

Yarn twist

Yarn count

Fabric

Fabric construction

Color fastness

Dimensional stability

Strength

Fabric serviceability

Fabric Construction

A) Reed/pick

C) Yarn twist

E) Gsm

B) Yarn count

D) Fabric width

F) Fabric gauge

Strength

A) Tear strength – ASTM method B) Tensile strength – ASTM method

Color Fastness

A) Washing fastness – AATCC method 

C) Sublimation fastness – AATCC

method

E) Light fastness – AATCC method

G) Sea water fastness – AATCC

method

B) Fastness to crocking – AATCC

method

D) Perspiration fastness – AATCC

method

F) Chlorine fastness – AATCC method

H) Fastness to solvent – AATCC

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method

Fabric serviceability

A) Fabric drape – ASTM method

C) Pilling property – ASTM method

E) Abrasion resistance – ASTM method

B) Crease recovery angle – ASTM

method

D) Fabric shrinkage – ASTM method 

F) Seam strength & seam slippage –

ASTM method

Dimensional stability

A) Shrinkage

C) Skew percentage

B) Skew rotation

Chemical and auxiliaries

Percentage purity

Moisture content

Solid content

pH of the solution

Viscosity

Ionic nature

Compatibility

Stability (ph, temperature, time)

Nature of impurities

Performance test

Density of the solution

Calorific value

Dyes and pigments

Performance test

Stability

Water

Ph

Chemical oxygen demand

(c.o.d.)

Hardness

Chloride content

Sulfate ion content

Total dissolve solid (T.D.S.)

Total suspended solids (T.S.S.)

Process control checks

Pick-up of each padder

Caustic pick-up of mercerizes

Dye and chemical ratio of cold

pad batch machine

Quality of silicate solution

Efficiency of IR dryer

In process trouble shooting

Computer color matching section

In coming dyes, pigment and

related auxiliaries testing.

Recipe prediction

Shade comparison

Color solution dispensing

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49

COSTING & CALCULATION

Garment Costing

Calculating the total cost of the garment is important, to determine its selling

price as well as to determine whether the garment is worth manufacturing....

Freight

Both air transport and sea transport are commonly used in delivering goods

from one country to another. However, the calculation for the charges of air

freight and sea freight are different, as follows:

Conversion Table

Yard to meter, Inch to Centimetre, Yard square to meter square..... Garments

Calculating the total cost of the garment is important, to determine its selling

price as well as to determine whether the garment is worth manufacturing.

The costing will be determined by a few relevant criteria, as the cost breakdown

will vary according to:

The business nature of the company. (e.g., trading office, manufacturer)

The payment conditions applied (e.g., F.O.B, C.I.F)

The manufacturing conditions applied (e.g., CMT, CM) &

The types of garments the company produces (e.g., woven , cut & sewn

knits, sweater)Since in the industry there are no two organizations or

factories that function in exactly the same way, methods of garment

costing vary from company to company, tailored to the individual's

requirement. However, the same data is necessary no matter

dissimilarities exist or not.

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Basic Shirt / Jacket

[ A – Length, B – 1/2Chest, C - Sleeve Length, D – Arm hole, E - Hood ]

Fabric consumption for shirt – Z

Z = X + Y

X = (A+3”) x (B+3”) x 2

Y = (C+2”) x (2D+2”) x (E+2”) x 2

Exam:

Highest Length of the shirt = 30”

Chest length (1/2 of Total length) = 20”

Sleeve length = 25”

Arm hole (1/2) = 9.5”

X = (31”+3”) x (20+3”) x 2 = 1564”

Y = (25+2”) x (2x9.5+2”) x 2 = 1134”

Z = X+Y

= 1564 + 1134

= 2698”

Now divided by fabric width

Say fabric width – 45”

So, Z = 2698 / 45” = 59.955”

Now merchandiser convert it inch to yds

So, 59.955/36” = 1.66 yds / Pc

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Basic Pant / Trouser

[H – Length or height of the pant, J – Width through cross line]

Pant = P

P = (H+4”) x (J+2”) x 4

Say,

H – 42” , J – 13.5”

(42+4”) x (13.5 + 2”) x 4

P = 2852”

= 2852”/56 (Fabric width)

= 50.93”/36 ( yds)

= 1.41 yds / Pc

Sweater

Yarn weight + wastage % = consumption

FABRIC COST

Purchase of finished fabric

Fabric cost per unit garment

= Finished fabric cost per yard x (1 + finance charge %) x fabric consumption

per

unit garment in yard

Or

= Finished fabric cost per meter x (1 + finance charge %) x fabric consumption

per unit garment in meter

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For example,

The production of a piece of blouse needs 2 meter of 100% cotton sheeting

fabric @

Rs 10.0 per meter. The finance charge is at 5% per meter. Then,

Fabric cost per blouse = Rs 10.0/meter x (1 + 5%) x 2 meter = Rs 21.0

Purchase of greige fabric which needs to be further processed

The calculation is similar to that for finished fabric but processing charges (such

as printing, dyeing and finishing) need to be added.

In Shahi merchandiser calculate the fabric cost by taking the average fabric

consumption provided by CAD in marker planning and adding wastage in it,

multiply by cost of fabric

YARN COST

Normally, yarn cost per unit garment is calculated by multiplying the yam

consumption per unit garment

In Shahi merchandiser give style techpack to IE and they calculate the total

consumption of yarn, which is then feeded in software CRM for costing.

PRODUCTION COST

As for different types of garment, the production cost will be charged differently

according to the different manufacturing procedures and the level of technology

employed (such as computerized system vs. manual system) in the operation.

However, in most cases, the manufacturer only quotes the total CMT cost to the

buyer without disclosing the breakdown of costs involved in each operation.

In Shahi, SAM is calculated by IE department, as merchandiser provide

teckpack and style to IE department they do operation breakdown and allocate

operator for each operation and give the average time for each operation. SAM

is standard allocated minutes which is calculated by experience d person in this

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field . They know and they have down research and recorded the average time

in doing each operation and they also manipulate the operation accordingly and

make calculation for that. Generally in Shahi they have slabs for efficiency and

they calculate SAM in two way

Software

o General sewing data

o Prosuit

Manual

Minutes x rating like 80% (efficiency slab) + Allowance

FORMULA FOR SAM COST IN SHAHI

SAM/efficiency % x 100 x 1.52 +20

OTHER COSTS

Besides fabric cost and production cost, to determine the actual garment cost in

FOB prices several costs have to be included as follows:

Local transportation

Documents

Quota

Duty

Miscellaneous

Profit margin

In Shahi its little different as some more cost are also included in it like fuel

electricity, salaries& incentives etc are also included

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The equation to calculate the cost of a garment is :

Fabric cost + Trims & Acc cost + Production cost +packaging cost + Local

transportation cost + Document + overhead +finance charge +govt incentives =

Per unit garment FOB Price

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GLOBAL LOGISTIC

CBM – Cubic MeterNOVCC – Non Vessel Operated Cargo CarrierFCL – Full Container LoadLCL – Less Container LoadETA – Expected Time of ArrivalETD – Expected Time of DepartureSea

CBM = Length X Width X Height (CM) / 1000000 X total No. of ctn = Length X

Width X Height (Inch) / (1728*35.32)

Air

a. 7000 Cubic CM = 1 Kilo

b. 6000 Cubic CM = 10 Kilo ( for Bangladesh)

1. Length X Width X Height (CM) / 6000 = Kilo

2. Length X Width X Height (Inch) / 366 = Kilo

** Volume weight per carton (Kg) X Number of carton X Cost of Air freight per Kg = Caring cost / Air

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CARTON

Type of carton

DEPEND ON PAPER Khaki Carton Or Brown Carton

Duplex Carton

Box Carton

DEPEND ON STITCHING Stitching Carton

Now stitching /Gum Pasting Carton Or

Metal Free Carton

3. DEPEND ON PLY 3 Ply Carton

5 Ply Carton

7 Ply Carton

DEPEND ON LINER Both Side Liner Carton

Out Side Liner Carton

DEPEND ON SIZE Master Carton

Inner Carton

CARTON CONSUMPTION & COSTING CALCULATION

Formula = ( Length x Width ) X ( Width x High ) x 2 + Wastage

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DOCUMENTATION FOR SHIPMENT

When merchandiser refers to documentation in the process of export,

merchandiser usually refers to the preparation of documents which the shipper

uses to collect money for the goods shipped. Therefore, this is the final of the

transaction and an important step.

Depending on how the payment term is set up between you and your buyer,

merchandiser should prepare the documents accordingly. However, no matter it

is L /C payment or DP, DA or open account, you must prepare your documents

to satisfy the following parties.

1) The buyer’s bank who has open the L /C to you if it is L /C payment,

otherwise you will have delay in receiving the proceeds of the goods you have

shipped.

2) The customs, otherwise you will have delay in clearing the goods through

customs.

3) Giving buyer the correct information in all respect, particularly all the packing

details in order to enable him to distribute the merchandise correctly to the retail

stores

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INTERNATIONAL CARE LABELING

The International Association for Textile Care Labelling (GINETEX) has

developed a language-independent care labelling system in 1975.

With an aim to promote voluntary care labelling on international basis, the

GINETEX care labelling system (or international care labelling system) mainly

uses symbols to provide care instructions. ISO 3758 1991 provides a code of

reference for the use of these symbols.

The system consists of five basic symbols and their full descriptions are shown

in the following

Washing

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LEARNING OUTCOMES

The purpose of industrial training is to acclimatize the students with the

organization & the industry in which this organization exits. Summer training is a

very important for each and every student .trainee are trained in such a way that

after they come out, they manage the matter of organization in a planned and

systematic manner. project is aimed at understanding the basics of export

house. It include how an export order is processed and what all procedure we

need to follow in the export of the garment. Training was a valuable experience

in terms of understanding & learning & in future believe it will get fruitful result

Key Learning Experience

1. Role of merchant in producing samples

2. Planning and control

3. Product knowledge including Fabric and trims

4. Interface with buyer

5. Costing

6. Filing the documentation

7. Arranging of material/trim fabric chemical etc in producing garment

8. Interface with supplier

9. Quality checks points

10.New techniques and products use for reducing the non-value adding

activities

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CONCLUSION

During internship built upon the understanding, Merchandiser main role is follow

up of his/her own time action plan, understanding the requirements of different

departments and organising solution for it. Merchandiser should have enough

knowledge about Fabric, Trims, Costing and calculation, Inquiry Sheet,

Purchase Order Sheet, requisition forms, and other test methods and also

operation which are non-value adding. Merchandiser must know the sequence

of the operation by working in different department of export house.

Merchandiser acts as a link between the buyer and the manufacturer. It is

his/her responsibility of ensuring that the product is developed as per the

requirements of the buyer. Merchandiser must have good communication skill

as it is his responsibility to source raw material and services, producing sample,

getting approval on samples and communicating with the buyer. Merchandiser

is also the like between the production and the buying agent or buying house.

Merchandiser work on number of styles at a same time ensuring that the

production been done as per schedule and inculcate the solution of all the

problems and expectation of buyer by arranging things required by the buyer as

convenient as possible.

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