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Esther Davis | Online PDC 2019 | page 1 Final Design Exercise Geoff Lawton’s Online PDC, 2019 Esther Davis

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Page 1: Final Design Exercise - Amazon S3

Esther Davis | Online PDC 2019 | page 1

Final Design Exercise Geoff Lawton’s Online PDC, 2019

Esther Davis

Page 2: Final Design Exercise - Amazon S3

Esther Davis | Online PDC 2019 | page 2

Contents The Site ........................................................................................................................................................ 4

Brief ...................................................................................................................................................... 4

Priorities ................................................................................................................................................ 4

Specific Requests .................................................................................................................................. 4

Structures Already in Place ................................................................................................................... 4

Access Already in Place ........................................................................................................................ 4

Known Resources & Limitations .......................................................................................................... 4

Largest Limitation ................................................................................................................................. 5

Client’s Specific Advantages ................................................................................................................ 5

Location and Property ................................................................................................................................ 6

History of Use ....................................................................................................................................... 6

Current Use ........................................................................................................................................... 6

Boundary Map ...................................................................................................................................... 7

Contour Map ......................................................................................................................................... 7

Observation and Research ......................................................................................................................... 8

Sector Analysis ............................................................................................................................................ 9

Opportunities and Limitations .............................................................................................................. 9

Describe how the design takes advantage of these opportunities and how it will address these

limitations. ............................................................................................................................................ 9

How to Address Wind ........................................................................................................................... 9

Water Problems ..................................................................................................................................... 9

Addressing Water Problems.................................................................................................................. 9

Problems with Access Features........................................................................................................... 10

Addressing Access Problems .............................................................................................................. 10

Addressing Negative Inputs ................................................................................................................ 10

Addressing Aesthetics ......................................................................................................................... 10

Addressing Wildlife ............................................................................................................................ 10

Sector Map .......................................................................................................................................... 11

Design Concept Development .................................................................................................................. 12

Water ....................................................................................................................................................... 12

Primary Contour Line ......................................................................................................................... 12

Calculations ......................................................................................................................................... 12

Swales ................................................................................................................................................. 12

Ponds ................................................................................................................................................... 12

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Water Feature Connections ................................................................................................................. 13

Potable Water ...................................................................................................................................... 13

Access ..................................................................................................................................................... 13

New Access ......................................................................................................................................... 13

Current Access .................................................................................................................................... 13

Water-Access Connections ................................................................................................................. 13

Structures ................................................................................................................................................ 14

Current Structures ............................................................................................................................... 14

New Structures .................................................................................................................................... 14

Water-Access-Water Connections ...................................................................................................... 14

Maps ........................................................................................................................................................ 15

Water Map .......................................................................................................................................... 15

Access Map ......................................................................................................................................... 16

Structures Map .................................................................................................................................... 17

W.A.S. Map ........................................................................................................................................ 18

Zones .......................................................................................................................................................... 19

ZONE 0 ............................................................................................................................................... 19

ZONE 1 ............................................................................................................................................... 19

ZONE 2 ............................................................................................................................................... 20

ZONE 3 ............................................................................................................................................... 20

ZONE 4 ............................................................................................................................................... 20

ZONE 5 ............................................................................................................................................... 20

Zone Map ............................................................................................................................................ 21

Final Synopsis ............................................................................................................................................ 22

Detailed Plan Description ................................................................................................................... 22

Final Map ............................................................................................................................................ 26

Plant List ............................................................................................................................................. 27

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The Site Brief

The client wants to have their own "permaculture paradise" where they can enjoy a beautiful landscape

and their own healthy, organic food while raising their family.

Priorities

Water management

Recovering the damaged pastureland

Shade to reduce the summer heat

Kitchen garden and food forest

Poultry

Specific Requests

Swales and other water management techniques.

Structures Already in Place

A house in the center of the lot with utilities and a septic tank, an open-air barn/animal shelter, and a 2-

story storage shed. Fencing surrounds the property.

Access Already in Place

A driveway connecting the house to the road.

Known Resources & Limitations

Resources:

The client lives in an agricultural community where neighbors can (and have) supply advice, equipment,

and biomass

Some financial funding (from personal sources)

Access to earth moving equipment

Some permaculture education

Supportive local permaculture network

Limitations:

Limited experience with plants, no experience with animals

Legal restrictions on water storage

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Largest Limitation

The state of Utah (where the property is located) has strict regulations on water rights. For example, if the

client were to capture water runoff from their roof without getting special permits, they would only be

allowed up to 2,500 gallons of tank storage, and no tank could be larger than 100-gallons. That means that

each year about 20,000 gallons of water would go to waste, and the client would have to set up 25

individual 100-gallon tanks.

As one option, the client can look into purchasing water rights or other related permits. I'm still learning

about the water rights in Utah, so I don't know how costly this option would be.

Another option is to focus more on using the soil to storing water through swales, mulching, shade, etc.

Since these techniques count as erosion control, and because in Utah it is illegal for the law to prevent any

form of erosion control, the client shouldn't run into any legal issues.

Client’s Specific Advantages

Understands guilds

Has lots of resources for both researching about and acquiring appropriate plant species

Good networking skills

Enthusiastic to learn more about permaculture

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Location and Property ___________________, UT 84321 USA

5050 ft altitude

5 acres

Nearest Mountain Range: Rocky Mountains

about 620 miles from west coast

Distance from nearest population center: 20 miles

History of Use

about 2010 - Residence and horse pasture

previously - farmland or unused (exact timeline unknown)

Current Use

Residence with kitchen garden. Pastures rented out to farmers to store horses or cattle.

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Boundary Map

Contour Map

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Observation and Research Koppen Climate: Dfa/Dfb

USDA Hardiness: 4b

Highest recorded annual rainfall: 32.76 in

Lowest recorded annual rainfall: 6.34 in

Largest 24-hour rainfall: 2.64 in (on 3 May 1901 near Ogden) [also note danger of quick snow melts,

extreme of 2.5/inches melting per day]

Highest Recorded Temperature: 104 F

Lowest Recorded Temperature -30 F

Average Summer Temperature: 43.7 – 87.1 F

Average Winter Temperature: 16.0 – 37.1 F

Prevailing Winds: SW and S

Site’s Prevailing Orientation: East

Most severe slope: 8%

Highest Point: 5080 ft

Lowest Point: 5020 ft

Troublesome Wildlife: Gophers, deer, wild turkeys

Plant species on site: Quack grass, phragmites, cattail, burdock, willow, thistle, box elder trees, apples &

other fruit trees

Soil Type: Clay

Any known toxins in soil? No

Areas that need soil rehabilitation: Both pastures have compaction from overstocking of cattle and horses.

We plan to address it with chisel plowing.

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Sector Analysis Sun Angles: (See Sector Map)

Opportunities and Limitations

Since there are very few trees on the site, the long summer days are extremely hot.

The house creates a patch of shade on the north.

The slope faces the east, so there is plenty of access to the rising sun.

Describe how the design takes advantage of these opportunities and how it will address these

limitations.

The biggest concern is planting more trees in strategic locations: along the south side of the house to

shade the home throughout the summer, and trees on the west side of the chicken coop (to be added) to

provide afternoon shade.

The shaded area beside the house is an ideal location for things like water storage or compost worms.

The kitchen garden and poultry will have a clear view of the eastern horizon so that they gets the morning

sun. They will have trees on the south and west side, giving them partial to full shade during the hotter

parts of the day.

How to Address Wind

The trees that we will plant on the south end of the property will also double as a windbreak.

The client has noticed that the wind direction causes clear patch of ground in front of the shed (on the east

side) during the winter when everything is normally covered in snow. We'll take advantage of this effect

to create a safe haven for the chickens during the winter.

The kitchen garden is placed on the south-west side of the home so that the house does not block the rain.

Water Problems

Water collects in a patch of swampy ground on the north-west corner of the property

Water runs off on the south end and the north-east corner of the property during storms and spring snow

melt

The neighbors up hill have a turkey nest pond in place. If the pond were to break, the water would

threaten the clients house.

Addressing Water Problems

We'll use swales to slow the runoff and keep the water on the property as long as possible.

The swampy ground on the north-west corner can be converted into a pond and used for aquaculture.

To protect the clients house from the possibility of their neighbor's pond bursting, we'll build a berm on

the up slope side of the home (west) to direct possible flood waters around the home.

All water collection starts uphill and uses gravity to work its way down.

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Problems with Access Features

The driveway slopes uphill towards the house and currently directs water away from the property and

onto the public road. We'll fix this with two features. First, we'll direct all run off from the roof of the

home to either water storage or a swale instead of the driveway. Second, we'll install a culvert beneath the

driveway linking two swales on either side of the driveway.

Addressing Access Problems

Footpaths and four-wheeler access will follow contour just behind the swales.

The footpath to the north of the house takes advantage of gravity. It starts uphill at the chicken coop and

goes down hill towards the greenhouse. A compost pile can start at the top with the chickens and then,

next to the foot path, work its way down hill towards the greenhouse.

The culvert going under the driveway will have a grate over it so that the water running off the hard

surface can be directed to swales down hill.

Addressing Negative Inputs

A dirt road on the east end of the property has noise and dust from seasonal traffic. Planting a living

barrier of trees along the edge with mitigate the noise and dust.

A farm on the south side of the property kicks up dust and sprays poisons during planting. The trees

planted for shade and a windbreak on the south side will also serve as a living barrier between the

property and the farmland.

Addressing Aesthetics

The south east corner provides a beautiful view of the valley. The design will avoid placing anything

between the house and the view that could block it. The swales intersecting that sector will be planted

with trees that tend to grow shorter.

Addressing Wildlife

Wildlife comes from the southwest of the property. In the acre surrounding the house (Zones 1-2),

gophers, deer, and wild turkeys regularly damage the garden and fruit trees. We'll buffer the wildlife by

planting thorny plants (such as raspberry bushes) and strong smelling plants (herbs) in a living barrier just

outside the kitchen garden on the south and west side. Adding trees and habitat to the surrounding land

(Zones 3 and 4) will also distract the wildlife from the areas near the home.

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Sector Map

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Design Concept Development

Water

Primary Contour Line

Looking at your contour map, identify the following:

- The longest contour in linear feet on site.

- The highest contour in elevation on site.

Between these two extremes, which contour is sufficiently high, and sufficiently long to provide the best

position to begin influencing water on site? This will be your primary swale (if it's appropriate for the site).

It is worth noting that on some sites multiple portions of the site will require this assessment because a

dividing ridge or other feature prevents a single contour from addressing the total area. Start with the most

relevent area first (probably the one that effects your zone 1) to record here.

TWO important swales: 1) at the contours marked at 5036 ft (just down hill from the home) and 5044 ft

(just above the driveway), which will be connected by a culvert, and 2) at contour 5068 ft.

Calculations

Catchment Area: 40,469 ft^2

Total Volume: 52, 962 gallons (with swales 8 ft wide and 3 ft deep)

Required Discharge Rate for Extreme Rain Events: 0.77 gallons/second (with a 2.64 inches in 24 hours)

Total Size of Spillways: 2 ft long and 15 in high.

Swales

There will be 8 swales on the property -- 4 above the house and 4 below. Each swale will have 2

spillways that allow any extra water to flow on to the next swale.

The primary swale mentioned above is a bit unique. It is actually 2 swales on separate contour lines,

which combine only span about 2/3 of the width of the property. The swales are connected via a culvert

that runs underneath the driveway. It prevents water from running onto the driveway and off the property.

The swale also accepts any excess roof runoff.

Since the property in on an area with low rainfall, the swales shouldn't over flow except in the case of an

extreme weather event

Ponds

First pond - Northwest corner (top) of property, converted phragmites patch. 40,000 gallons (3 feet deep

& about 1765 ft^2 area). It's attached to a swale (the second primary swale) that will also collect water

from a neighboring property. Together they need to discharge 2.33 gallons/sec. The spillways should

combine to a total length of 6 ft, each 15 inches high.

Second pond - In between the house and the first pond, small pool for ducks. It's connected to a spillway

from the swale above, so it needs to discharge half as much as the swale just before it.

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Water Feature Connections

Starting at the top of the property, swales will catch rain water and direct it into ponds and a covered

cistern. At the house, rain water that fall son the roof will be directed first into water storage tanks (up to

2500 gallons) and then into the first swale below the house. The swale just above the driveway directs

extra water to the next swale via a culvert.

There is also already a well on the property that is used for drinking water and irrigation. The new swale

system will take over irrigation needs.

A berm just uphill from the home protects the building from possible floods.

The leech field is located more than 100 feet downhill from the well to avoid water contamination.

Potable Water

The house is already connected to an onsite well that provides potable water. The design also includes

catching rainwater runoff from the roof and storing it for emergency use.

Access Often, access on site is inherited and not always ideally placed. Sometimes this can be mitigated by addressing

the existing problem the right way, other times major intervention may be needed to put things right. As a

great of time spent on site will be spent coming and going efficiency and proper placement of access pays

great dividends in time, especially over the life of a system we hope to measure in decades if not longer.

New Access

In addition the driveway and road already in place, the design includes new footpaths and vehicle access.

The footpaths connect the home, garden, well pump, and cistern on one side. On the other side, they

connect the home, greenhouse, chickens, and ducks. The compost pile moves downhill alongside the foot

path.

The new design will also provide vehicle access points on the property. Vehicles can also use swale

basins during dry periods.

Current Access

The only access currently on the property is the driveway, which slopes uphill towards the house.

Currently, a lot of rainwater is lost via the driveway. There are a few steps we will take to fix the water

loss problem. First, we'll place a swale just above the driveway (on the west side) to capture runoff before

it hits the driveway. The swale is connected to the next downhill section via a culvert.

Second, we'll place a grate over the culvert so that any water running onto the driveway that is not

captured by the initial swale will be directed towards the next swale. We can also place second grate-

covered culvert at the bottom of the driveway.

Third, we will attach flexible pipe fittings to the house's rain spouts. With these pipes, we can direct any

rainfall from the roof to either a storage tank or a swale.

Water-Access Connections

The swales, since they are on contour and the property is located in a relatively dry region, provide the

dual purpose of water catchment and vehicle access. The pre-existing driveway was the hardest to

integrate with the water. However, but including swales and grate-covered culverts as mentioned above,

we can avoid any water loss.

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At least one swale will need to have be modified to allow vehicle access over it. (Shown in the map)

Structures

Current Structures

There's an east-facing house in the middle of the property. It looks towards the positive view, but does not

have windows on the south side to take advantage of passive solar heating. The home's roof can be used

for catching rain runoff.

A large shed sits on the north side of the house. The shed tends to have a snow-less patch on the east side

of it even when the rest of the property is buried in winter snow. The shed also has a roof that could

capture rain runoff.

An east-facing, 3-walled barn, is just west of the shed. The barn lets in morning light and shades out

afternoon sun.

New Structures

The site plan includes one new structure--a portable greenhouse that will be used as a nursery. The

greenhouse's initial location is shown on the map. The greenhouse can be built out of light and

inexpensive materials (such as clear plastic). Once the trees planted in the swale in front of (east of) the

greenhouse grow tall enough to shade the greenhouse, we will relocate the greenhouse to where it can

receive enough sunlight.

For duck and chicken housing, we can retrofit the small barn and shed that are already on site.

Water-Access-Water Connections

The water plan incorporates the water captured by the roof of the house. We can also attach water

catchment, whether for potable water or irrigation, to the roof of the other structures onsite.

The foot paths allow access between all onsite structures. The vehicle access also connects onsite

structures.

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Maps

Water Map

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Access Map

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Structures Map

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W.A.S. Map

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Zones - List the elements, components, structures and systems which will be within this zone.

- Be sure to notate which may be "on the edge" and which edge where appropriate. i.e. the chicken coop

that straddles the line between zone 1 and zone 2.

- Include a section of written commentary between 400-500 words explaining the vision for this zone in

the whole design, why the most important included elements are there, and connections between these

elements which benefit the design.

ZONE 0

-Home with kitchen, bedrooms, etc.

-Bathroom, uses built in septic tank

-Garage (storage)

-Solar panels

-Water catchment tanks

The client has a fairly large home that faces east, to take in the view of the valley. It currently does not

allow for passive solar heating and relies on city utilities for energy. Depending on the client’s future

financial resources, they can make modifications to the home to make it more energy efficient. The

client’s first priority with Zone 0 is to install water tanks to collect any rain that falls on the roof, which

can be used for both drinking and irrigation. Any water exceeding Utah’s 2,500 gallon rain barrel limit

will be directed to swales downhill from the house. Beyond water harvesting, the client can improve the

house by installing solar panels on the roof. They can also add south-facing windows with deciduous trees

shading the windows during the summer months.

ZONE 1

-Kitchen garden

-Herb garden

-Fruit trees (edge of zone 1 & 2)

-Berm (uphill from house as a protective measure against flooding)

-Water storage tanks (edge of zone 1 & 0)

Zone 1 is designed to be visited regularly to harvest and tend vegetables and herbs. It is also a place

where the children can play outside. Herbs will be grown just outside the kitchen door, on the protective

berm. The kitchen garden provides fresh vegetables for home cooked meals. The fruit trees are on the

edge between zones 1 and 2. Water storage tanks are on the edge of zones 1 and 0.

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ZONE 2

-Windbreak

-Food forest

-Chickens (edge of zone 2 & 1)

-Ducks (edge of zone 2 & 1)

-Septic tank & leach field

-Greenhouse

Noisy animals (chickens and ducks) are housed in zone 2. Initially, the animals will use pre-built

structures that are converted to animal shelters. However, once some trees are established the animals can

be rotated through the food forest. Zone 2 will include many trees, including the main windbreak on the

south side of the property and 2 swale systems. The trees in zone 2 will also get supplemental water from

the rain catch on the roof.

ZONE 3

- Leach field (edge of zone 3 &2)

- Meadow pasture

- Swales & hardy trees

- Pond (low maintenance plan)

Zone 3 will take up the majority of the property. It will have meadow pastures and hardy fruit/nut trees on

swales. After the damaged soil has rehabilitated, the client can use zone 3 for cattle or other large animals

if they want. A naturally wet section of ground on the northwest corner of the property will be converted

to a low-maintenance pond. The leach field (already on the property) is on the edge of zone 3 & 2.

ZONE 4

- Hardy trees on swales

Since the property is only 5 acres, zone 4 makes up two small strips on the top (west) and bottom (east) of

the property. Each strip will have a swale planted to hardy, low-maintenance trees. The main goals of

zone 4 for this property are: a) provide a vegetative shield for privacy, b) erosion control, and c) minimal

energy requirements.

ZONE 5

There is not room for a zone 5 on the property, but wild/undisturbed land is available on public lands on

the surrounding mountain side.

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Zone Map

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Final Synopsis

Detailed Plan Description

The first priority for this site is planting trees, especially along the south side. The maps

show a windbreak located south of the house. This should be planted first. The windbreak should

be a mixture of species which are nitrogen-fixing and/or grow tall quickly. Honey locust and

native cottonwoods are good first choices. The windbreak will provide protection from wind,

shad during the scorching summer months, and rich organic matter (especially from nitrogen-

fixing trees) to collect during autumn. The windbreak forms the beginnings of the natural

wildlife buffer around the kitchen garden. These trees will also create microclimates in the

kitchen garden; There will be places that are nearly full-shade, partial shade, and full sun all

within the same garden. You can plant your choice of vegetables accordingly. It would also help

to plant two or three large deciduous trees closer to the house for summer shade.

The second set of trees should be planted along the primary swales—the first located just

above the driveway and its partner swale looping across the top of the lower pasture. These

swales will be planted like a food forest. This is a good place to include guilds that are food

production intensive. These two swales—which are connected under the driveway with a grate-

covered culvert—will capture runoff water and provide an ideal location to grow trees. Once

established, the food forest trees will provide shade and nutrient cycling, helping other species

grow as well.

The map shows 7 other swales, each separated by about 50 feet, that will be included in

the final design. These swales will take time (likely years) to implement. After creating the

primary swales mentioned above, start with the swale at the highest point on the property. Each

swale will slow the flow of water through the property and grow trees that will provide countless

benefits. Starting at the top of the property lets you work with gravity. Water and nutrients will

trickle downhill towards the other interconnected systems on your site. Swales in the upper

pasture will eventually help recharge the onsite well. Applying a chisel plow to both the upper

and lower pastures will also help with rehabilitating the soils and cycling nutrients. If you plant

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any fruit or nut trees on swales outside of Zone 2, makes sure that they are hardy species that

require minimal maintenance after they are established. If you plan to use the pastures for large

animals again in the future, you can also plant the swales with cattle-forage trees.

As one exception, you may wish to build the swale just above (west of) the house as your

second swale. This swale can also be planted like a food forest and include plants intended for

duck or chicken feed. The trees on this swale serve the dual purpose of providing shade to the

chickens and ducks. All dirty water from the ducks’ pond should go downhill into this swale,

where the food forest plantings can absorb the extra nutrients from the duck manure. We’ll also

work with gravity when it comes to the chickens, which are housed just below this second swale.

We can place compost piles in the chicken pen and let the chickens scratch and mix up the

compost. The chickens will kick the compost downhill until it reaches the greenhouse, where we

can use the compost in potting mix. Any extra nutrients that leak from the compost pile will get

washed downhill by rainwater into the primary swale.

The ducks and chickens should be located close enough to the house that it is easy to visit

them on a regular basis, even during snowy winter months. The map shows plans for a pond near

the top of the property, which would be convenient for ducks if it weren’t so far away. That

location currently has a thick patch of phragmites, a species that the local county considers

invasive.

The phragmites needs to be replaced to prevent the county from spraying poison on the

property. The soil there is already very marshy as it has a bowl-shape that tends to capture water.

This plan proposes to replace the phragmites with a low-maintenance pond that grows species

that won’t upset the county. When excavating the pond, there will be a lot of nutrient-rich top

soil that should be kept on site. Any excess water from the pond, which will also be nutrient rich,

will flow into swales and feed the vegetation.

We should also give special attention to the house. To protect the house from any

floodwater that may come from uphill, the map shows a protective berm on the west side of the

house. The berm is shaped like the bow of a boat with its tip pointing perpendicular to contour. It

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is made of a mound of earth with large stones imbedded into it. In the case of a flood, the berm

will direct the water away from and around the house. Since the kitchen door lead directly onto

the top of the berm, this is also a good location to grow kitchen herbs. It is important to note that

the soil on top of the berm will shaded in the morning and will tend to be dry. The berm also

provides a high spot to store water for gravity-fed irrigation.

The house also serves to capture rainwater (about 22,000 gallons per year). A portion of

this rainwater can be directed to water tanks for storage. Without getting special licensing, Utah

allows residence to have 2,500 gallons worth of storage tanks. This water can also be redirected

as irrigation. Water barrels (that collect water from the roof) placed on top of the berm can

gravity-feed water towards the kitchen garden, herbs growing near the kitchen door, and any

thing else planted nearby. The captured rainwater can supplement the well water or act as a back

up storage supply. Any excess water will be redirected to the primary swale.

As all permaculture systems, this design will evolve over times. The map suggests

several other items that can be added as time and resources allow. It shows two water features at

the bottom of the lower pasture—a duck pond and a cistern. The ducks will need some sort of

water to swim in. Initial, you can use a simple plastic kiddie pool that you empty and refill

regularly. Later, you can dig out a small pond that receives water from the main pond and

empties into the swale just below it. The cistern is another optional water feature that can be

added in the future. The cistern would be located just up hill from the kitchen garden. It would

collect water from uphill rainfall and use the water to irrigate the garden.

The map shows a wildlife buffer near the southwest corner of the kitchen garden. The

garden already has fencing around it to deter wildlife. A barrier made of thorny bushes, trees,

and strongly scented herbs could also help protect the garden. Plants such as raspberries (with

thorns), garlic and onions (to deter moles), and mint (which has an unpleasant smell for most

animals) are good choices.

Between the driveway and lower pasture there is a gutter-shaped area that also drains a

lot of water away from the property. You could capture that water by creating miniature terraces

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or gabions. Even lining up cinderblocks every 20 feet or so along the gutter-shaped area would

work. You can then plant trees in the soil behind the cinderblocks. After adding cinderblocks to

the gutter-shaped area, you can expect it to fill with organic debris that will decompose into

topsoil.

As another suggestion, you could create a raingarden by the front porch of the house. The

raingarden. The raingarden could have both decorative and functional plants and serve as a

simple educational tool. You can set up the garden to show visitors how water from the rainspout

naturally irrigates the garden. Once they see the demonstration work on a small-scale raingarden,

you can use the raingarden as an example to explain how the rest of your permaculture site

functions.

Lastly, there map shows “psuedo swales” on the edge of Zone 1. The “psuedo swales”

are just above some already planted fruit trees. To avoid damaging the fruit trees, we do not want

to dig too close to their roots. However, a swale-like earthwork could help irrigate the fruit trees.

For example. you could create “psuedo swale” by making a mound of earth or stones along

contour to slow down any runoff water. You could then lay down carbon-rich mulch to help

retain any captured moisture.

This permaculture design time to mature. However, you will see benefits after each

design element that you implement. Start with the features that will have the greatest impact

(namely, trees and swales). You will likely need to experiment a bit. Some design elements will

need tweaking. Don’t try to do it all once. Focus on developing one small feature at a time. With

some patience and consistence, before long you’ll have a permanent and self-sustaining

permaculture home.

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Final Map

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Plant List

BUSH

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)

Mock orange (Philadelphus microphyllus)

Raspberry (Rubus idaeus)

Oregon grape, creeping (Mahonia repens)

Rose, wild (Rosa spp.)

Aronia, chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)

Currant, Crandall black (Ribes odoratum)

Josta berry (Ribes x nidigrolaria)

Serviceberry, autumn brilliance

(Amelanchier x grandiflora)

Serviceberry, regent (Amelanchier alnifolia)

FLOWER (ornamental)

Onion, Blue Eddy ornamental (Allium

senescens)

Peony (Paeonia spp.)

HERB

culinary...

Strawberry (Fragaria x ananssa)

Chives, garlic (Allium sativum)

Geranium, rose (Pelargonium graveolens)

Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis)

Lovage (Levisticum officinale)

Sage (Salvia officinalis)

Spearmint (Mentha spicata)

Peppermint (Mentha piperita)

Winter savory (Satureja montana)

Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)

Oregano (Origanum spp.)

medicinal...

Chamomile, roman (Chamaemelum nobilis)

Comfrey (Symphytum officianale)

Feverfew (Tanacentum parthenium)

Lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina)

Lavender, hidcote (Lavandula angustifolia)

Tulsi, holy basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum)

Yarrow, yellow (Achillea millefoluim)

SHRUB

Forsythia, show off (flowering) (Forsythia x

intermedia)

Cherry, nanking (Prunus tomentosa)

Currant, golden (Ribes aureum)

Goji berry (Lycium chinense)

Elderberry, black beauty (Sambucus nigra)

Elderberry, black lace (Sambucus nigra)

Elderberry, black tower (Sambucus nigra)

Elderberry, blue (Sambucus nigra ssp.

cerulea)

nitrogen fixing...

Goumi, red gem (Elaeagnus multiflora)

Goumi, sweet scarlet (Elaeagnus multiflora)

Seaberry (male & female) (Hippophae

rhamnoides)

Siberian pea shrub (Caragana arborescens)

TREES

Linden, littleleaf (Tilia cordata)

Redbud (nitrogen fixing) (Cercis

canadensis)

Apple, crab, magenta (Malus spp.)

Apple, sikkim (Malus domestica)

Apricot, manchurian (Prunus armeniaca)

Mulberry, Illinois everbearing (Morus alba

x rubra)

Mulberry, Oscar’s (Morus alba)

Mulberry, Russian white (Morus alba)

Mulberry, sweet lavender (Morus nigra

‘Alba’)

Pear, Bartlett (Pyrus communis)

Pear, shinseiki Asian (Pyrus pyrifolia)

Persimmon, early golden American

(Diospyros virginiana)

Persimmon, meader (Diospyros virginiana)

Plum, potawatomi (Prunus americana)

Sumac, staghorn (Rhus typhina)

Autumn olive (nitrogen fixing) (Elaeagnus

umbellata)

Gingko (Gingko biloba)

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Locust, black (nitrogen fixing) (Robinia

pseudacacia)

Oak, bur (Quercus macrocarpa)

Pine, pinyon (Pinus edulis)

Walnut, black (Juglans nigra)

Walnut, g. bush butternut (Juglans cinerea)

Yellowhorn (nitrogen fixing) (Xanthoceras

sorbifolium)

Willow, curly (Salix matsudana ‘Tortusa’)

Quaking Aspen (Populus tremuloides)

Box Elder Tree (Acer negundo)

VEGETABLES

Artichokes, Jerusalem (Helianthus

tuberosus)

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)

VINES

Honeysuckle, Hall’s (Lonicera japonica)

Trumpet vine, amenco (Campsis radicans)

Grape (Vitis vinifera)