continued on page 11

ZHURAVLFriends of Muraviovka Park

An Affiliate of the International Crane Foundation

February 2005

Celebration marks decade of protection

Ten years later,

a dream realized in

Russian Far East

by Eliza Klose

by George Archibald

Area children in traditional costume were just a few of the performers gatheredto celebrate the 10th Anniversary of Muraviovka Park in June.

In June, over 100 peoplegathered at Muraviovka Park tocelebrate a decade of protectingcranes of the Amur River wetlands.Among those present were local andregional officials whose domainincludes the Park; the teachers,parents, and children whom the Parkserves; the staff who implement itsmission; the Japanese couple whosefirm provided $50,000 to lease thePark’s 12,000 acres of wetlands; anda dozen Russians and Americans whohad traveled thousands of miles toshow support for the Park. We wereall drawn there largely because ofSergei Smirenski’s recognition ofthe critical need to preserve theAmur River cranes along with thewater, earth, and air on which theydepend.

The last time I had been atMuraviovka Park was in July 1995 aspart of a trip to the Russian FarEast. My organization, theInitiative for Social Action andRenewal in Eurasia (ISAR), hadopened an office in Vladivostok ayear before. The U.S. Agency forInternational Development (USAID)that funded our small grantsprogram for grassrootsenvironmentalists in the formerSoviet Union held a meeting of itscontractors in Khabarovsk that year.I was eager to take the train fromthere to Blagoveshchensk to see theremarkable birds and their nestinggrounds that Sergei had soenthusiastically described inprevious meetings. (I had metSergei and Elena in Moscow in 1991at the first conference for U.S.-U.S.S.R. non-governmentalenvironmental organizations. ISAR

continued on page 10

During the dark days of theU.S.S.R., when contact betweenSoviet and American scientists wasdifficult and travel to Siberia wasbanned for Westerners, I met Sergeiand Elena Smirenski several times inMoscow. They told me about thecranes and wetlands of the AmurRiver lowlands and they mentionedthe high density of nesting pairs inthe region, now encompassed byMuraviovka Park. I recall photos of

ICF President Jim Harris (left) acceptscongratulations and a commemorativebook from Sergei Tkachenko,Administrator of Tambovka District.

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Dear Friends,

Our life is full of wonderful and interesting things. Sometimes we just can't see it, but look around

and you will see - the world is smiling at you! Muraviovka Park became one of those smiles to me. As one

of the Russian children attending environmental summer camps, I met a lot of interesting people, and

because of the Park, I am here in the United States! For the next year, I will be improving my English skills,

and learning more about cranes. When I return to the Russian Far East and home, I plan to become an

interpreter, English teacher, or work with ecotourism at the Park.

It is so interesting to be in another country getting to know about the customs and traditions. After

three months, attending West Salem High School, I am feeling special among the other foreign exchange

students. I have known my host mother, Barb Thompson, for four years and through her, the Thompson

family. Barb has been instrumental in developing the summer camps for seven years and knows some of

the Russian traditions. Sometimes we drink tea in the evenings and talk……

Everything in the United States is new to me, especially the school. My village school is much smaller

than the school in West Salem. The style of lesson programs is much different. In Russia, we do not have

the wonderful chance to choose classes that we are interested in. Russian students have to take everything. I

never had a big love for chemistry and was very happy to be able to not choose it. Also, American students

work a lot with the Internet during classes.

I like American people because they smile a lot and are very friendly. American food is great, because it

is not very different from Russian, but unfortunately we do not have peanut butter in Russia.

I wish to say a “big thanks” to the organization “Friends of Muraviovka Park” and to the

Park Director, Sergei Smirenski, for such a great opportunity to come to the

United States.

Sincerely,

Anastasia Shapoval

A wonderful life...old and new!

Anastasia Shapoval, pictured with American host motherBarb Thompson, is 16 years old and a foreign exchangestudent in the senior class at West Salem High School,Wisconsin, where she enjoys drama, literature, music,and art. Called Nastya by her friends, she grew up inMuraviovka village and has been involved in MuraviovkaPark activities for the last four years, planting trees,establishing stork nesting sites, preventing fires, andassisting American teachers with whatever task was needed(even acting as an interpreter). Nastya considersMuraviovka Park her “window to the world.”

Anastasia Shapoval (Nastya) traveled to Wisconsinand is attending West Salem High School after FOMPraised funds to support her stay. Nastya’s Americanteachers have nominated her for awards that recognizeher achievement and efforts. Library Director CarolBrown and assistant Jean Raymer describe her as an“incredible foreign exchange student, participating forall of the right reasons.”

Nastya’s subject for her Senior Exit Program (SEP)is called International Cooperation in Migration of Bird

Species, with an emphasis on cranes. Nastya considersher SEP topic, along with environmental awareness,demonstrative of her feeling for responsibility and theneed to take advantage of opportunities that will allowher to “give back” to society. Social Studies TeacherBrian Linse describes Anastasia as having an infectious

sense of optimism, a strong work ethic, and unwaveringdiligence. He says that “Nastya represents the best andbrightest that Russia has to offer. Her country andvillage have every right to be proud of her.” CollegePrep English Teacher Cindy Patza feels that Nastya is oneof the most conscientious students she has worked withand has an unquenchable thirst for knowledge. Cindydescribes Anastasia as humble and dedicated to causeslarger than her personal life and predicts she will domuch to make this world a better place.

Friends of Muraviovka Park feel that children likeNastya Shapoval are the future light and hope for Russiaand for the Park. They are requesting advice andassistance in helping gifted and talented children to beable to take advantage of educational opportunities, asthey make the transition to independent life.

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Camps highlightCamps highlightCamps highlightCamps highlightCamps highlightnatural, cultural bondsnatural, cultural bondsnatural, cultural bondsnatural, cultural bondsnatural, cultural bondsOver 150 students and teachers participated in environmentalsummer camps at Muraviovka Park in 2004, learning first-handabout the connections which keep both natural ecosystems andhuman communities healthy, thriving, and stable. In theupcoming year, activities will focus on exposing students andthe community to the lessons of Aldo Leopold’s “Land Ethic.”

4

Lighting the way

to a brighter futureBy Sergei Smirenski

Muraviovka Park 2004 Update

Leonid Korotkov, Governor of theAmur Region, speaks during the Julydedication of the Park’s connection tothe electrical grid, which hisgovernment generously supported. continued on page 5

InfrastructureIn July 2004, electric power

from the grid finally came to thePark! Thanks to the generoussupport of the Amur RegionalGovernment, a power line was builtout to the Park’s Headquarters.This project will be fullyimplemented in 2005 with thecompletion of internal wiring. Adedication ceremony took place atwhich Governor Leonid V. Korotkovspoke. Six streetlights are nowilluminating the Headquarters—morethan the total in three neighboringvillages, combined! Electricity willprovide all sorts of newopportunities for daily operationsand for the Park’s various programs:education, wildlife management,ecotourism, farm, and woodshop. Itwill drastically improve conditionsfor the staff that work and live atthe Park.

This summer, the Headquartersbuilding was given a new roof andthe guest bedrooms were remodeledwith new insulation, wall coverings,carpet, and furniture. A new logcabin was built for the woodshopand a used truck was purchased.

In late November, four laptopswere donated to the Park by WesternWisconsin Technical College,LaCrosse, Wisconsin, and the Parkis back on-line! Many thanks toBarb Thompson and Francine Joneswho solicited this donation!

A proposed goal for 2005 is thepurchase of a new van for the Park.

Wildlife ConservationDue to heavy rains and a high

water table in the wetlands(combined with over 30 km ofpreventive fire breaks and otherefficient fire fighting efforts by thestaff), all grass fires were stoppedat the outer border of the Park.This was the first spring in nineyears that there has been no firedamage to the wetlands. However,in spite of this good fortune, onlytwo families of Red-crowned Cranesbred in the Park and only 12 Red-crowneds made a stopover duringthe fall migration—the lowestnumber since 1984. The reason forthe decrease is most likely habitatdestruction and extensivedevelopment at the bird’s winteringgrounds in China, as well as lowbreeding success during the last fiveyears in the Amur River basincaused by drought and grass fires.

Although the number of Red-crowned Cranes in 2004 was verysmall, all the crane pairs in the Parksuccessfully raised their chicks(three White-naped and two Red-crowned). Oriental white storksbuilt 12 nests, which is the highestnumber ever. Poachers destroyedone of these, but the others weresuccessful. With the support ofschoolchildren and villagers, over2,000 oak seedlings were planted

from the Park’s tree nursery, alongwith 1,000 seedlings of pine,spruce, and fir from northern andeastern areas of the Amur Region.

In 2005, the Park is planning tocooperate with the Moscow Zoo,Moscow State University, RussianAcademy of Science, InternationalCrane Foundation, LivingstoneRipley Waterfowl Sanctuary, CraneWorking Group of Eurasia, GeeseWorking Group of Eurasia, and theInternational Wild WaterfowlAssociation in developing a SwanGoose and Red-crowned Cranerestoration project. Construction ofa demonstration pen for captivebreeding of cranes and waterfowl isunderway. The Amur RegionalGovernment has pledged tofinancially support this project andother initiatives. The Park isexpected to cover its expenses untilthey can be reimbursed (currentlyestimated at $10,000).

Six streetlights now adorn the Park’sHeadquarters, with additional benefitsof electrification to soon follow.

5

EducationThanks to the continued

generous support from the Trust forMutual Understanding (TMU) and theHenry Luce Foundation, this yearthe Park’s summer camp programsin Russia and China involved over200 teachers and young people infour sessions. During June and Julythere was an environmental summercamp in English, an environmentalsummer camp for high schoolseniors, a camp for handicappedchildren, and a seminar forenvironmental high school teachers.In late July, a delegation of sixRussian teachers, four Wisconsinteachers, and seven Russianstudents traveled to HeilongjiangProvince, China. Together withseven Chinese educators, thedelegation ran an environmentaleducation program in Chinese,Russian, and English for 26 Chinesechildren and the seven Russianchildren. A seminar was also heldfor 12 Chinese educators from fourprovinces. Chinese students andteachers said that they learned a lotfrom the interactive Russian/American approach to environmentaleducation.

With the assistance of FOMP,the Park provided an opportunity fora student from Muraviovka villageto attend a year of high school inthe United States (see page 2).

Russian-American and Russian-Chinese environmental summercamps will continue to be a majoreffort in 2005, with the next groupof American teachers already beingorganized.

Community OutreachThe Park offered special

classes for over 200 orphans at theKrasnyi Yar summer camp inBelogorski District. Over $600 wasraised for the renovation of thesummer camp facilities at KrasnyiYar during the third annual CraneFest through the sale of children’sbooks, FOMP t-shirts, souvenirs,and baked goods (made byschoolchildren).

Children’s art contestscontinued this spring; studentsalong with their teachers from AmurRegion, Nizhegorodski Region, and

Wisconsin drew pictures of cranesfor a coloring book. This coloringbook was published and distributedto schools and orphanages acrossthe Amur Region and throughoutRussia. Five winners of the artcontest were awarded freeadmittance to a 10-day summercamp program at the Park. Theseven Russian students thattraveled to China were selected bytheir participation in the artcontest, by their performance in thereforestation program, and by theirhelp in developing fire breaksaround the Park’s stork nests.

The fourth annual Farm Fairtook place in July with exhibitions ofagricultural products and localhandicrafts. Over 100 people fromTambovka District attended. TheFair has become a good vehicle forstrengthening the connectionsbetween the Park and localcommunity, while providing anopportunity for local people to selltheir products. In early August, 25handicapped children from the cityof Svobodnyi were provided anenvironmental education sessiondeveloped just for them by theRussian and American teachers.

On September 19, the Parkhosted more than 300 people fromsix regional Districts and the city of

Blagoveshchensk in the third annualCrane Fest. Opening with a concertby Muraviovka village’s folk choir,the Fest provided a way for peopleto enjoy the Park’s attractions offlora, fauna, wetlands, and trails.They saw ducks on the lake andcranes gathering in the fields, flewkites, and played environmentalgames.

During the fall of 2004, a groupof Russian teachers that have beeninvolved with the Park started alocal “Friends of Muraviovka Park.”As other schools and teachers havelearned of this initiative, they haveasked to join and participate inactivities that will help ensure thePark's continued success.

The Park is receiving growingsupport and recognition from thelocal community and the regionalgovernment because of its manyactivities and its ability to attractinternational attention. CommunityOutreach in 2005 will continue to bea large part of the Park’s focus.

Demonstration FarmThe Park bought a new

combine and built a grain dryer.However, for the second year in arow, extremely unfavorable weather

Russian and American teachers share teaching strategies during last summer’steachers workshop, just one of four events designed to promote environmentaleducation in Russia, China, and the U.S.

continued on page 6

Update from page 4

6

conditions (alternating periods offlooding and drought) created a cropfailure, which was experienced bythe entire southern part of AmurRegion. During the previous threeyears, the Demonstration Farmalong with the lumber operation andwildlife tourism had become self-sufficient and even helped to coversome of the Park’s administrativecosts. But without marketableharvests for two seasons, theDemonstration Farm has neededfinancial support from FOMP.

In early September, Americanadvisor John Cancelarich traveled tothe Park and worked on strategicplans for the enhancement ofbusiness opportunities that couldmake the Demonstration Farm andthe Park self-supporting. Hisresearch, supported by the Land O’Lakes office in Novosibirsk,presented information and ideas onthe soybean enterprise, the smallgrain enterprise, the lumberenterprise, and the tourism/education enterprise. His writtenreport has been received by the Parkand will be seriously considered.

In farming, “optimism springseternal” and 2005 will see a returnto good weather and bountifulharvests.

Wildlife TourismTwo birdwatchers from France

and seven from Germany toured thePark in small groups, organized bythe Dersu Travel Agency, Moscow.The Park has begun to develop aplan for creating a Regional Trainingand Information Center for WildlifeTourism.

In 2005, a pilot project titled“Birding for the Blind,” developed bySteve Bouffard of the U.S. Fish andWildlife Service, is being consideredfor the Park. A seminar on WildlifeTourism co-sponsored by Land O’Lakes and Watchable Wildlife will beconducted in the Park during thespring of 2005.

Anniversary CelebrationIn June, friends and supporters

from Japan, Russia, and the UnitedStates gathered to celebrateMuraviovka Park's 10th Anniversary.The guests of honor at the ceremonywere Mr. and Mrs. Takeshi Tanaka,whose company, POP International,had donated the money for leasing5,207 hectares of Park land and forconstruction of the educationbuilding. It was also a special dayfor Mr.Tanaka--his 60th birthday. Tospend it at the Park, he and his wifetraveled for two days! Also inattendance were Svet Zabelin(Coordinator of the International

Socio-Ecological Union of Russia),George Archibald (InternationalCrane Foundation co-founder), JimHarris (ICF President), RichardSteeves (ICF board member), CarolCombs (Earth Island Institute),Michael Bean (Livingston RipleyWaterfowl Sanctuary), DavidGrimwood (Trumpeter SwanAssociation), Carol Hesch (MemphisZoo), Eliza Klose (former director ofthe Initiative for Social Action andRenewal in Eurasia), Barb Thompson(FOMP President), Elena Smirenski(ICF Amur Program Coordinator),Elena Ilyashenko (Crane WorkingGroup of Eurasia), Elena Zubakina(Russian Union for Bird Protection),staff of Muraviovka Park, localofficials, neighbors, and students ofthe area. The anniversary enabledvisitors to do some early morning/evening birdwatching and to learnabout the Park’s activities,facilities, challenges, andopportunities.

During the events of the 10thAnniversary, this prominent group ofPark supporters decided to establishan International Board of Directorsto assist the Park in becoming moresustainable. Its first officialmeeting took place on October 16 atICF in Baraboo, Wisconsin.Committees were established and anoutline of future goals and activitieswas developed.

Presentations & PublicityMuraviovka Park has been the

subject of much attention, bothlocally and internationally, including:� Sergei Smirenski, ElenaSmirenski, and Barb Thompson gavepresentations at the 10th AnnualCrane Fest in Bellevue, Michigan; atthe annual conference of theInternational Wild WaterfowlAssociation in Niagara Falls,Canada; at the public library inMadison, Wisconsin; and at theKumlien Bird Club in Poynette,Wisconsin.� Elena Smirenski and GeorgeDanner met with Will Bullock, seniormanager of business developmentfor Citizens Development Corpsabout assistance in developing eco-tourism at the Park.� Sergei Smirenski and GeorgeDanner participated in a radio

This demonstration pen, under construction, will soon host Swan Geese and Red-crowned Cranes as part of a captive breeding program to restore theirpopulations in the Amur region. continued on page 7

Update from page 5

7

interview with Pam Yanke of radiostation Q-106, Madison, Wisconsin.� FOMP became a member of theOrion Society. A profile page aboutMuraviovka Park is available on-lineat www.oriononline.org/ogn.� A story about Sergei Smirenskiand Sergei Shalagin was featuredon-line in October atwww.oriononline.org/pages/ogn/profiles/index_profiles.cfm.� Sergei Smirenski and GeorgeDanner attended the “WatchableWildlife” Conference in Dubuque,Iowa.� Sergei Smirenski gave aninterview about Muraviovka Parkthat was presented in the on-linepublication Russian Far East News.

� A story about Elena Smirenski wasprinted in the magazine Russian

Conservation News.

� A story about the DemonstrationFarm’s efforts to have itsproduction organically certified wasprinted in the magazine Russian

Conservation News.

� Muraviovka Park for SustainableLand Use has become a participantin Woodland Park Zoo’s “Partners forWildlife” program. Information canbe found at www.zoo.org/zoo_info/involved/donate/donate.htm.� An information pamphlet aboutMuraviovka Park titled “Land WhereCranes Dance and Children Laugh”

has been published in Russian andEnglish.� An information pamphlet aboutstorks has been published inRussian.� A coloring book titled Zhuravl hasbeen published and distributed toRussian schools and to areas of theNew Independent States.� An article about the Park and anarticle about Sergei Smirenski havebeen published in the Russianmagazine titled Hunting and Fishing

— 21st Century.

� The Amur Region Beacon

published an article about the 10thAnniversary of Muraviovka Park.� Bulletin Number 7-8, published inRussian and English by the CraneWorking Group of Eurasia containedan article titled “Agriculture +Cranes = Cooperation,” which waswritten by Park EducationCoordinator Marina Kolodina.� A curriculum manual for Russianenvironmental classes was writtenby Natalia Gromova and LubovKasyan.� A curriculum manual for Russianenvironmental classes was writtenby Natalia Gromova, MarinaKolodina, Elena Palyenaya, andMarina Savosko.� The Russian environmentalmovement, Dront, published anarticle titled “Land of Cranes andPeople at the Amur River” in theirnewspaper Bereginya.� Melinda Herrold, a Park volunteer,wrote her dissertation for theUniversity of California, Berkeley onthe relationships between protectedterritories, local governments, andlocal people in Russia and China.� Sergei Smirenski wrote an articletitled “Only Together Can WeSucceed,” which was published inEnglish and Japanese for the Birdlife

Asia Newsletter.

Dr. Sergei Smirenski is the director

of Muraviovka Park.

Russian students clear brush from beneath one of the Park’s stork nests to protectit from wildfires.

Update from page 6

American teacher Kris Schilling adds a little drama to her rendition of a folk taleduring a summer camp offered by the the Park for over 200 orphans at KrasnyiYar in Belogorski District.

8

arly in 2004, Richard Lanier, director of Trust for Mutual Understanding, was apprised of the success andgrowth at Muraviovka Park since TMU’s original 1992 grant. Mr. Lanier was pleased with the news, butcommented that he felt TMU’s moderate support had probably not played an important role. He could not have

been further from the truth. “Small” grants, including TMU’s, have helped to initiate new programs, recruitvolunteers, raise awareness, and develop support throughout the world. New approaches to wildlife managementhave been developed and sustainable land use practices have been started. Community outreach, environmentaleducation, and people-to-people diplomacy programs have taken place.

2004 could have been a year of financial disaster. Two consecutive seasons of extreme weather caused theworst crop failure in 30 years, interrupting Muraviovka Park’s progress towards self sufficiency. But governmentalagencies, foundations, individuals, and “Friends of Muraviovka Park” members provided crucial support. Everyoneinvolved with Muraviovka Park for Sustainable Land Use acknowledge all of the contributions (large and small) thathave been made to ensure the continued success of this project:

American Zoo and Aquarium Association (AZA) supported fire equipment purchases and training forwildfire control programs. Included was a film on wildfires that was seen on local Russian television. AZA support alsocontributed to the success of Crane Fest at Muraviovka Park.

Amur Regional Administration financed the construction of an electric power line to the Park. 2005 shouldsee the completion of this effort with connections made into the buildings and facilities. With the administration’ssupport, demonstration pens for Red-crowned Cranes and Swan Geese were constructed, remodeling of the guesthouse was completed, books published, and summer camps conducted.

Friends of Muraviovka Park (FOMP) provided the initial and quarterly payments for the purchase of a newRussian-built combine. FOMP support assisted in the purchase of a used truck, payment of taxes, operation of thesummer camps, and supported the continuing education of outstanding students from the region.

Henry Luce Foundation supported the purchase of educational equipment and operation of the Chinese-Russian-American environmental summer camp in Heilongjiang Province of China.

International Wild Waterfowl Association (IWWA) financed the initial steps of the Swan Gooserestoration program.

Land O’Lakes Cooperative financed the travel expenses of volunteer consultant John Cancelarich, whodeveloped business strategies for the financial sustainability of the Park. His activities were coordinated by SlavaSudukov, from the Novosibirsk office of Land O’Lakes.

Tambovka District Administration supported restoration of trees in the Park’s windbreaks.

Trust for Mutual Understanding (TMU) brought experts to Russia, who led seminars that helped to extendand strengthen relations between activist organizations in Amur, Moscow, Irkutsk, and Primorski Regions. Discussedwere the mechanisms of community involvement in nature protection, environmental education, sustainable land use,and social issues of East Asia. TMU assisted in the organization of the International Board of Directors of MuraviovkaPark by supporting travel of Board members to the site of the first Board meeting at the International CraneFoundation, Baraboo, Wisconsin. Russian participants were so inspired they established a “Friends of MuraviovkaPark” chapter in the Amur Region.

Wagner Foundation provided funds for Park staff salaries, farm equipment, and the continued developmentof the woodworking shop.

Western Wisconsin Technical College and Amur Savings Bank of Russia donated used computers,which resulted in restoration of e-mail communications and assisted in the daily operation of the Park.

Woodland Park Zoo (WPZ) provided funds for Park staff salaries, e-mail/telephone communications, andprograms for wildlife protection. WPZ supported the publishing of children’s books and the regional children’s art contest.

A heartfelt THANK YOU to everyone listed and to all those anonymoussupporters of Muraviovka Park for Sustainable Land Use.

Gifts great and small...Gifts great and small...Gifts great and small...Gifts great and small...Gifts great and small...E

9

My trip beganwith a 9-½ hour non-stop flight fromMoscow toBlagoveshchenskwhich led me towonder where in theworld I was going.This trepidation wasquickly gone with thewarmth of my hosts,Sergei Smirenski andAndrei Yakutov, atthe airport. I mustadmit my impressionsof the airport werenot positive andmade the lingeringquestions resurface.

A tour of Blago,as I was quickly toldto call it, wasinteresting, especiallywith the sight of

China just across the river. Again, a question arose--why were their buildings much more modern than thoseon this side? I was to learn the answer later, as Sergeiexplained the local economy in far eastern Russia.

While traveling out to the Park, we stopped at aschool and I was treated to the classic Russian first dayof school--a joyful ritual. With the Russians, I have asort of indescribable feeling, one that says weAmericans owe them much. I speak of the greatcost our Russian allies paid in World War II. Sucha toll allowed many of my fellow Americans tocome out of the war and be part of the greateconomic boom we experienced in the late 1940sand 50s. Russia, meanwhile, lost a generation ofengineers, artist, doctors, miners, teachers,musicians, and others too numerous to mention.Today, they are still paying the price of such aloss. I was allowed to address the students andtold them that I was able to be there because oftheir fathers, mothers, and grandparents. I doubtif my words were truly understood.

Later, Sergei and I learned that a terribletragedy had just occurred on the same date andtime in another Russian school (Beslan), leavingan impression that lingers today.

At the Park, a dedicated staff andcomfortable accommodations assured me that mystay was going to be very pleasant and productive.I immediately began to try and learn about the

Conservation in Russia:

A debt and an opportunityoperational sector of the Park, so that I could fulfill thenecessary requirements of my assignment. However,other thoughts and views began to enter the grey cells ofthis old man. Muraviovka Park had begun to cast itspell, as it had done with the staff and the manydedicated visitors, so fortunate to have been there.

Muraviovka Park and its message is what one ofour great presidents, Abraham Lincoln, called the“angels of our better nature.” A classical example ofwhat can be done when dedicated people rightly defineand understand that a clear and moral issue does nothave to separate industry and the environment. Supportof the Park, with its proper and honest leadership, willallow it to exist for the long term benefit of man andafford us the opportunity to learn and then protect whatwe must treasure, or else have it lost forever. Fromsuch, we thus learn who we really are.

In Muraviovka Park, we can both see andappreciate the essential relationship that exists not onlyamong man and crane, but among all living things andman. The cranes in their delicate way are nature’smessengers and we had better hear and heed theirmessage.

So in closing, yes, I learned much of the technicaloperations of Muraviovka Park, but a deeperunderstanding is that I saw the inner soul of both Russiaand the world there. What we do with Muraviovka Parkremains a question, but to allow it to fail means we havefailed our own selves.

Business consultant John Cancelarich prepared an

extensive analysis for the development of ecotourism

and agriculture at the Park. His 2004 visit to

Muraviovka was sponsored by Land O’Lakes Cooperative.

by JohnCancelarich

American business consultant JohnCancelarich uncovered not onlytechnical information aboutMuraviovka Park during his visit,but also lessons on history andresponsibility.

New equipment, such as this Russian combine acquired by the Parkin 2004, is one step toward increasing agricultural yields, asrecommended in Cancelarich’s report.

10

had convened the conferencetogether with the Socio-EcologicalUnion, a network of Soviet NGOsthat later became the officialRussian sponsor for the Park.)

In the summer of 1995,Muraviovka Park was just gettingoff the ground. Its existence asRussia’s first private protected areawas formally marked by a large signerected on the ridge overlooking thewetlands. However, the Parkfacilities were minimal. Theyconsisted primarily of a trailer witha “jerry-rigged” porch where we hadour meals. Behind the trailer, off tothe right, was a covered deck wherethe children and teachers whoattended the summer camp programhad their meals, and to the leftstood an outdoor shower and latrine.The teachers, like some of ourgroup, slept in tents.

Over dinner that night, whichhappened to be Sergei’s birthday,Sergei talked about his plan todemonstrate more nature-friendlyfarming techniques to the localpeople so that the numbers ofendangered cranes that bred at thePark would grow. In the glow ofcandlelight, we toasted his visionwith champagne and strawberries.Early next morning Sergei took usdown a long farm lane to observethe birds that made their home inthe wetlands. It was my firstexperience of seeing such creaturesin the wild and it made a profoundimpression on me. So when Sergeiinvited me to return in June 2004, Ipromptly accepted.

Arriving this summer, it wasimmediately clear how much thingshad changed since my last visit.Our group was met at the airport bythe comfortable big white busbought a year ago by FOMP. As werolled into the Park after a strollalong the Amur embankment andlunch at a comfortable Chineserestaurant in Blagoveshchensk, wewere greeted by a line of freshlyinstalled electric poles leadingbetween the barns of thedemonstration farm and theheadquarters building. Workmenwere setting up a large transformerthat promised, at last, the arrival ofelectricity to the Park. Off to the

right, overlooking the wetlands,stood the attractive educationbuilding, constructed with fundsfrom the same generous Japanesefirm (POP International) that hadprovided money to lease the parklands. And then with barelyconcealed delight, the Smirenskisshowed us up to the sparklingupstairs guest quarters for 15,which had been completelyrefurbished for our arrival.

The celebration itself was heldon Sunday, June 13. The morningwas devoted to speeches by visitingofficials, donors, Park staff, andconservationists from Moscow andthe U.S. Then after a delicious mealprepared by Olga, the Park’ssmiling, energetic cook, came anoutdoor awards ceremony with alively song and dance concert bylocal schoolchildren. Sergei pointed

out that participation of keyregional officials along withinternational supporters wouldprovide a large boost to the Park’sreputation. It was nice to knowthat our mere presence was helpful.As in July 1995, our gatheringcoincided with a particularlyappropriate anniversary--the 60thbirthday of Takeshi Tanaka, thepresident of POP International,which we duly celebrated with wine,champagne, and Japanese favors.

On the days before and afterthe anniversary festivities, we spentour early morning and evening hoursobserving the wonders that the Parkprotects: cranes, storks, herons,terns, warblers, roe deer, and manyothers that make their homesamong the low oaks, grasses,wetland iris, and lilies that stretchas far as the eye can see. Withsuch visions dancing in our heads,we gathered in the screened dininghall to ponder how to ensure thatthe creatures and their habitats willflourish for decades to come.Sergei and his staff explained theircurrent activities and their plans forthe future. We tried to lookhonestly at the challenges that facethe Park, for in spite of all thepromise and progress, the Park mustdeal with limited funding, uncertainharvests, demoralization and

From left, George Archibald, Carol Combs, Elena Zubakina, Eliza Klose, CarolHesch, and Richard Steeves take a break from 10th Anniversary festivities toenjoy some of the Park’s birds and other wildlife.

‘Perhaps more than anyother thing, [cranes]evoke the retreating

wilderness, the vanishinghorizons of clean water,

earth, and air upon whichtheir species-and ours…-

must ultimately depend forsurvival.’

-Peter Matthiessen,The Birds of Heaven

Celebration from page 1

continued on page 11

11

alcoholism in the local population,poaching and wildfires, and the factthat there are currently too fewpeople trying to do far too much toachieve the mission.

As we talked, it became clearthat the best way we could show ourcommitment to the Park, to Sergei,and to his vision was to establish afull-fledged board of directors forMuraviovka Park. The boardmembers, with their various skillsand experience, could help share theresponsibilities and burdens of thehardworking Park staff and Friendsassociation. The internationalBoard could help reach out topotential supporters, offerexpertise, and tell the Park’s storyto new audiences.

Even more important, we wereready to commit to the effort anddevoted the next two days todefining the role, structure, andpotential tasks of the Board. Weplanned our initial meeting forOctober, to meet with members ofFOMP and launch our activities.

In this time of worldwidepolarization, violence, anduncertainty, gathering together withcommitted people of differentnations to preserve a beautiful placeand its wild creatures meets adeeply felt need. Muraviovka Park’s10th Anniversary gave those of uswho were present a chance to voiceour determination to help save apart of the retreating wilderness andvanishing horizons that are, as PeterMatthiessen writes, as essential toourselves as to the cranes.

Eliza Klose recently retired as

executive director of the Initiative

for Social Action and Renewal in

Eurasia (ISAR) and is currently Chair

of the International Board of

Directors of Muraviovka Park.

Due to generous support from

the Trust for Mutual Understanding,

representatives from a variety of

organizations were able to attend

the 10th Anniversary activities,

including: George Archibald, Jim

Harris, and Elena Smirenski (ICF);

Barb Thompson (FOMP); Svet Zabelin

(International Socio-Ecological Union,

Moscow); Elena Ilyashenko (Crane

Working Group of Eurasia, Moscow);

and Elena Subakina (Russian Union

for Bird Protection, Moscow). Also

present were participants from the

Ripley Waterfowl Sanctuary and The

Nature Conservancy.

some posters they made to alert local peopleabout the importance of protecting the cranes. Ilonged to watch Red-crowned Cranes and White-naped Cranes sharing the same wetland.

In 1992, not long after the end of theU.S.S.R., on a ferry boat traveling up the AmurRiver from Khabarovsk, Sergei organized aninternational workshop of cranes, storks, andwetlands of the Amur Basin. We had hoped todock near the Park and participate in theopening ceremony, but the river was low and theboat could not make it that far inland.

For the next decade, I helped Sergei andJim Harris with various fund-raising activitiesfor the Park. I always looked forward to hearingSergei’s stories, when he returned to join hisfamily in Baraboo each autumn.

Last June, a long-term wish came truewhen I visited Muraviovka Park, as a member of theBoard of Directors. The landscapes, the buildings, thepeople, and the birds that I knew so well fromphotographs, suddenly became realities. But I was notprepared for the sweeping beauty of acres of deep purpleiris on the wetland with white-winged black terns dartingover them for insects. I was equally fascinated byremnant grasslands, also with many species in fullbloom, on the ridge between the upland agriculturalfields and the wetlands.

Summer days are long in Siberia and I didn't wantto miss anything. Each morning, before sunup, I tiptoedfrom the freshly finished visitor’s quarters and took offinto the field to experience nature. It was a joy to learnto identify the vociferous song birds, such as the black-browed reed warblers, and to estimate the numbers ofbreeding pairs of cranes by the location and distance ofunison calls floating up from distant wetlands. But justbeing there in the clean fresh air, stillness, and beauty

was food for my soul. I fell in love with the place.Before leaving, Eliza Klose and I secured permission

from Sergei to walk far out into the wetland. Themosquitoes were just as interested in us as we were inthe biodiversity. On the way back to headquarters,inspired by the radiant iris, the soft white blooms ofcotton grass, and a family of White-naped Cranes, westopped to express our mutual commitment to helpingthis sacred place. We sealed that pledge with a hugehug. Today, Eliza is the Chair of the Board ofMuraviovka Park and I will continue to serve under her asa faithful member of the Board. I am looking forward toreturning to the Park, once a year, for a meeting and afresh encounter with pure nature. I also hope to helpSergei and his staff with the reintroduction of the SwanGoose, the Whooper Swan, and the Great Bustard.

George Archibald is the co-founder of the

International Crane Foundation in Baraboo, Wisconsin.

Celebration from page 10

Dream from page 1

George Archibald and POP International President Takeshi Tanakalisten as guests reflect on the history and future of Muraviovka Parkduring the 10th Anniversary celebration..

George Archibald and POP International President Takeshi Tanakalisten as guests reflect on the history and future of Muraviovka Parkduring the 10th Anniversary celebration.

12

GolubtsyGolubtsyGolubtsyGolubtsyGolubtsy(Cabbage Leaf Wraps)

from the kitchen of Elena Smirenski

Ingredients:One large head white cabbage1 cup rice1/2 pound carrots (230 g)2 onions, chopped (about 1/2 cup)1.1 pound fresh mushrooms (500 g)

or 0.11 pounds dried mushrooms(50 g)1/4 teaspoon salt3 tablespoons butter1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper1 cup sour cream (or by taste)Hard-boiled eggs and parsley (optional, by taste)

1. Cook rice and drain it.2. Cut mushrooms into small cubes and sauté in butter

for 10 minutes. Add carrots and onions (cut into smallcubes) and simmer for another 10 minutes. Mix with cookedrice, adding salt and black pepper. Hard-boiled eggs(chopped) and parsley may be added, if desired.

3. Boil whole head of cabbage for 20 minutes. Peel offleaves and flatten them out. Place each leaf with the innerside up.

4. Place one tablespoon of prepared stuffing in thecenter of each leaf. Roll leaves, covering stuffing from sideslike an envelope. Place stuffed cabbage leaves with seamdown close to each other in a baking pan. Add water orbroth, covering the bottom of the pan. Spread butter on topof each piece.

5. Bake for one hour at 250o F (140 C).6. Serve in a deep plate with seam down, and garnish

with sour cream or sauce in which golubtsy were cooked.Serves 2-3.

7. To make meat golubtsy, replace mushrooms andcarrots with 1 pound of sautéed ground meat (any kind -beef, pork, lamb, or poultry).

Kudos to FOMP board membersBarb Thompson and George Danner,who received the “Good Egg” awardat the International CraneFoundation’s annual meeting onSeptember 11, 2004. This award ispresented “for outstandingcontributions to the welfare ofcranes and people.”

Barb Thompson has beenpresident of the Friends ofMuraviovka Park since itsdevelopment five years ago. Shehas been going to Muraviovka Parkevery summer for the last sevenyears and is instrumental in

organizing the American and Russianteacher teams that conductenvironmental summer camps inRussia. These camps haveexpanded into exchanges ofteachers and students betweenRussia and China. Her involvementand enthusiasm has ensured thecontinued successful progress of thePark and encouraged her twodaughters and a niece to participateat the summer camps.

George Danner has beeninvolved with the Muraviovka Parksince 1991, when it was only an idea

and dream of Sergei Smirenski.These two gentlemen of differentcultures spent hours formulating theRussian ideas into Americanlanguage and developing thebeginning of Muraviovka Park intothe project that we know today.Despite conflicting advice and theprevailing opinions of the time, theyheld steadfast to the basic principleof the project which linkedenvironmental preservation withsustainable economic development.Currently, George continues to bethe agricultural advisor to theproject and editor of Zhuravl.

ICF recognizes a pair of FOMP’s “Good Eggs”

The Friends of Muraviovka Park website,http://zhuravl.freeshell.org

is being upgraded. Visit often to learn aboutwhat is happening at Muraviovka Park and how

you can get involved in helping the Park tocontinue its mission of saving cranes,

protecting the environment, and helpingpeople.

Muraviovka Park is also featured in a profileon the Orion Society's website,

www.oriononline.org/ogn.

You can read the “Tale of Two Sergeis andMany, Many Cranes” from October, 2004 at

Orion’s Stories from the Grassroots feature atwww.oriononline.org/pages/ogn/profiles/

index_profiles.cfm.

To learn more about recent activity at theInternational Crane Foundation, view FOMP

clothing for sale, or discover how you can helpICF's mission to help cranes and people, visit

www.savingcranes.org orhttp://russia.savingcranes.org.

Websites track progress

at Muraviovka Park

13

FOMP Board of Directors CandidatesIt is time to vote for members of the Board of Directors for Friends of Muraviovka Park. According to the

Bylaws, board members are to be elected every three years. The following candidates have agreed to be on theballot. Additionally, any person wishing to be on the Board can be a write-in candidate. Candidates receiving themost votes will be elected as members of the Board of Directors.

Use the ballot at the bottom of this page and return by March 6, 2005 to: Friends of Muraviovka Park,International Crane Foundation, P.O. Box 447, Baraboo, WI 53913, or bring along to the Annual Meeting.

Membership Renewal (Membership term January 1, 2005 – December 31, 2005):

Name __________________________________________

Address ________________________________________

_______________________________________

City ________________ State _____ Zip _____________

Email __________________________________________

Friends of Muraviovka Park:

Membership Application and Board of Directors BallotPlease vote for TWO of the following candidates:

___Alyssa Brummer ___Jane Wester ___Write in candidate:____________________

Membership Levels:

____ student ($10)____ individual ($15)____ family ($25)____ school/youth group ($50)____ organization/firm ($100)____ contributing member ($100)____ additional donation

$_____total donation

Donations are tax-deductible to the full extent of the law.Please make checks payable to the International Crane Foundation and return to:

Friends of Muraviovka Park, International Crane Foundation, P.O. Box 447, Baraboo, WI 53913

‘Friends’

Annual Meeting

scheduled for

Sunday, March 6

The Annual Meeting of the Friends of Muraviovka Park isscheduled for 1:00 p.m. on Sunday, March 6, at the library of theInternational Crane Foundation.

ICF co-founder George Archibald will share stories andslides from his recent trip to the Russian Far East, along with aperspective on how Muraviovka Park fits into ICF’s globalstrategy to protect cranes.

New members of the FOMP Board of Directors will also beselected, and light refreshments will be served. Come join usfor a fun and educational afternoon!

ICF is located five miles north of Baraboo, Wisconsin, atE11376 Shady Lane Road. Call (608)356-9462 for directions.

Alyssa Brummer recently graduated fromcollege with a degree in vocal performance. During thesummer of 2004, she traveled to Muraviovka Park andtaught at the International Languages Summer School,where she also directed a show choir performance withthe Russian children. She writes that the experience hashad a great impact on her life: “I see things differentlynow, than I did before going to Russia. I loved workingwith the teachers and children at the Park and want tocontinue to support the Park and its programs.Muraviovka is a very special place with very specialpeople.”

Jane Wester moved to Baraboo in the summerof 2002 and immediately became involved in the BarabooHills Chapter of the Ice Age Park & Trail Foundationwhere she has volunteered as the Trail MaintenanceCoordinator, Treasurer, Promotions, etc. Herprofessional work experience has been in television andvideo production and most recently, she has beenconcentrating on web page design. After learning aboutFOMP and the International Crane Foundation through ahigh school friend, she attended some of the FOMPmeetings and decided she'd like to offer her time as theBoard's Treasurer. “I'd like to do more volunteer work,”she writes. “I have all the computer skills for thesoftware programs necessary and have had somebookkeeping and accounting experience.”

Dedicated toDedicated toDedicated toDedicated toDedicated toenvironmental protection,environmental protection,environmental protection,environmental protection,environmental protection,educational programming,educational programming,educational programming,educational programming,educational programming,ecological research, andecological research, andecological research, andecological research, andecological research, andsustainable agriculturalsustainable agriculturalsustainable agriculturalsustainable agriculturalsustainable agriculturaldevelopment atdevelopment atdevelopment atdevelopment atdevelopment atMuraviovka Park andMuraviovka Park andMuraviovka Park andMuraviovka Park andMuraviovka Park andin the Amur Riverin the Amur Riverin the Amur Riverin the Amur Riverin the Amur Riverwatershed of thewatershed of thewatershed of thewatershed of thewatershed of theRussian Far East.Russian Far East.Russian Far East.Russian Far East.Russian Far East.

Friends of

Muraviovka ParkAn Affiliate of the

International Crane Foundation

P.O. Box 447

Baraboo, WI 53913

ZHURAVL IS EDITED BY GEORGE DANNER AND

TYPESET BY ROB NELSON.

Even if you can’t travel toRussia, participate in a summercamp, or host an exchange student,you can still play a vital role in thesuccess of Muraviovka Park throughthe Adopt-a-Nest Program.

Sponsored by Friends of

Help cranes and people grow by joining FOMP!Muraviovka Park, Adopt-A-Nest is agreat way to help maintain nestingsites for two species of endangeredcranes, the Red-crowned and theWhite-naped. In addition, thiseffort to maintain the wetlands inMuraviovka provides nest sites forthe Oriental White Stork and atemporary resting place forthousands of migrating birds fromother parts of the world.

Those who adopt a nest site(or receive it as a gift) will beacknowledged by a certificate, aphoto of a crane, and a bookentitled Cranes, Cranes, Cranes.

This package comes complete withpostcards from the Park and a one-year membership in the Friends of

Muraviovka Park.

It is a great deal for aminimum “adoption fee” of $50!Why not think of someone on yourgift list who would enjoy this uniqueopportunity? It’s also a popularchoice for school classes or other

groups, and one which benefits theenvironment, as well.

To request an adoptionbrochure please contact ElenaSmirenski at elena@savingscranes.org or Carolyn Parrottat parroo@earthlink.net.

Adopt-a-Nest!