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Fashiontopologies
computernetworktopologies
Modular physical circuits
Fashion:Func5onalclothingforthemasses
• SmartTex*lesMarkets2016-2023-EmergingSecondGenera*onSmartTex*les:Sports,HealthandFashion
Thisreportprovidescoverageofhowthefollowingcategoriesofmaterialsarebeingusedtofabricatecommerciallyavailablesmarttex5les:-Electricallyconduc5veyarnsandthreads-Conduc5vepolymers-Shapememorymaterials-Color-changingmaterials-Phase-changingmaterials-Self-cleaningandan5microbialmaterials-NanomaterialsThisreportcontainsdetailedforecastsofvolume(insquaremetersandunits)andrevenue(in$millions),brokendownby:-Endapplica5on-Typeofmaterial-Fabrica5onmethod
hHp://www.researchandmarkets.com/research/gjwp5s/smart_tex5les
designingfor‘need’
LudwigSvensson DuPont ForsterRohner
context known known unknonwn
enduser business service individual
innova5onlevel machinelevel fabrica5onlevel unknown
maHersofconcern controlledbuiltenvironment
controlledhumanenvironment
dynamicsocio-culturalenvironment
(smart)func5onalapparel
• Firefigh5ng:Nomex®fibercarbonizesandthickenswhenexposedtotheintenseheatofafire(DuPont).
Collaborators:TineM.Jensen,FashiondesignerKarinEggertHansen,SewingProjectpartners:ForsterRohnerandAlexandraIns5tuHet
(smart)func5onalfashion
commercialprojectss5lllookingforconsumerdemand,
developingconceptualproofofconceptistooriskyatscale
conceptualprojectsmightshowproofofconcept,but
remaincommerciallyunfeasible
TheLevi’sICD+jacketwastheworld’sfirstcommercialwearableelectronicsgarmentviad-
sciencelab.be
Collaborators:TineM.Jensen,FashiondesignerKarinEggertHansen,SewingProjectpartners:ForsterRohnerandAlexandraIns5tuHet
E-tex5leproductsasconsumerelectronics
ifthisishowweexpectthemtobe,it’stheconsumerelectroniccompanieswhowillmakewearablesande-tex5lesonthebodyareality,becausetheyalready
knowabouthumancommunica5on
hHps://www.google.com/atap/project-jacquard/sta5c/videos/jacquard-hero.webm
Howcanwere-designthefashion
innova5onprocesstohelpincrease
feasibilityanddecreaserisk?
Electriccorset:benefitsofdesigningforamodularsystemofdress
customer brand
controloverself-expression fashioncyclescanbesupportedthroughchangingelementsoflargersystemofdress(collec5ons)
controloverfunc5onality Upgradesandnewfunc5onscanbemarketedseparately
Streamlinescareandmaintenanceneeds
Supportsdevelopmentofcareguidelinesandqualitymanagement;facilitatessustainableapproachesandbranding
Adop5oncanbeincremental Processinnova5oncanbeincremental/riskcanbemanaged
Ouraimistodemonstratethewealthofhistoricalar5factsandreferencesavailabletodesignersofsmarttex5lesandwearabletechnologies.Theuseofhistoricalgarmentsandaccessorieswillillustratedimensionsandthemestosupportfuturewearablesandinnova5vefashionandtex5ledevelopment,forexample:
• func5onality,wash-abilityandmaintenance• layeringanddetailingforclassandiden5ty(modularity)• looselydefinedconceptualspacesbetweenclothingandthebody• adornmentasasiteforcrea5veproductdevelopment
“Fully clothed man carried seventy or more buttons, most of them useless…
…He has at his disposal two dozen pockets.” (Image and quote Rudofsky, 1947: 120 -121)
Many of the items have lost their stories along the way. Descriptive information remains, often put together by the curators.
In-between garments, occupying spaces on the body we don’t consider as separate concerns any more.
Detachable and replaceable garments and accessories.
Now rendered obsolete.
Dickey
Pocket bags
Separate collars
Collar with capacitive pin
Chatelaine
Detachable cuffs with interactions
Potential PhD project Collaborations Further funding options
Background image: Pattern 1873 Museum of Costume Art, New York in Rudofsky 1947, p146
• ADLINGTON,l.,2015.S5tchesin5me:thestoryoftheclotheswewear.RandomHouseBooks.
• BARTHES,R.,1969.Elementsofsemiology.London:JonathanCape.
• RUDOFSKY,B.,1947.Areclothesmodern.Chicago:PaulTheobald.
• WEISER,M.,Thecomputerforthe21stCentury.Scien5ficAmericanSpecialIssueonCommunica5ons,Computers,andNetworks,September,1991.
Electric Corset is funded by NTU research development funding and acknowledges the support and collaboration of Judith Edgar and Nottingham City Museums and Galleries Costume and Textiles Collection.
