Fashion Journal

Inspired by the elegance of the 1950s and 1960s

Courtney Osborne

Table of Contents

Theme Philosophy……………………1

1.  Inspiration/Mood Board…………2-3

2.  Ready-To-Wear………………….4-5

3.  Retail Analysis……………………6-7

4.  Trend Report………….………….8-9

5.  Fashion Observation….………10-11

6.  Editorial Evaluation……………12-13

7.  Fashion Forecast…..…………14-15

8.  Cyclical Effect………………….16-17

9.  Textile/Color Trends…………..18-19

10. Visual Retailing………………..20-21

11. Fashion Variance……..………22-23

12. Fashion Designer…….……….24-25

13. Fashion Critique……………….26-27

14. Fashion Professions…………..28-29

15. Fashion Mantra…………..……30-31

16. Epilogue………………………..32

Theme Philosophy

I chose the era of the 1950s and 60s for my fashion journal because of the classic, elegant clothing. The fashions introduced in this era have translated throughout the years into inspiration used for new, modern trends. Not only did this era produce amazing fashions, but it is also the era, in my opinion, of the most influential Hollywood socialites. Through these socialites and celebrities came incredible music, movies and fashion that is still well recognized and appreciated today.

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Christian Dior Spring 2011 “My girl back home I’d almost forgot,” goes the song from South Pacific. Drop the “almost,” and it could be the anthem of the sailors populating John Galliano’s imaginary Polynesian naval base, where the seafaring residents can feast their eyes on a lineup of Bettie Page look-alikes with froth on their dresses and mischief on their minds. With Paris in the throes of a men’s wear/boys’ wear moment, how clever of Galliano to set sail. That way, he could wink at the motif with — what else? — sailor pants, including a pair in khaki with a navy shirt for the collection’s

butchest look, and also with fabulous casual jackets. But those items and his girls’ jaunty sailor caps were as far as Galliano rode the man wagon. Trend or not, his women prefer to look like women. Thus, this collection was really about the Bettie Brigade that stormed the base. Its troops wore mostly flirtatious short dresses — no below-the-knee discretion here — and if, every now and then, a roomy parka made the mood more casual, all the better. Though Galliano’s focus was singular, his dresses were anything but. They came lean and full-skirted, some fashioned from fabric ropes knotted and twisted into “don’t-call-it-macramé” styles. These were worked in a range of feisty tropical colors and prints, and often embroidered. As for extras, Galliano showed a savvy handbag range. And what would island chic be without some flowers strung into leis? At night, exotica reigned in featherlight gowns with rich embroideries and not a smoking in sight. Because, by Galliano’s lights, when it’s time to dress up, there’s nothing like a dame.

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Christian Dior’s Spring 2011 line embodies a vintage sailor motif using retro colors and feminine silhouettes. It looks as if Betty Page has inspired the pin-up hair and makeup styling through curled bangs, big, wavy hair and bold lipstick, giving the line a spicy edge and completing the vintage feel.

My Analysis

The array of looks is vast-from short, flouncy, printed skirts and dresses, to white harem pants and breezy blouses, to light, flowing gowns for spring evenings. The fabrication is airy and soft- perfect for a spring collection and the silhouettes are mostly forgiving, but still create a womanly hourglass shape.

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Sometimes the most incongruous partnerships yield the most inspired results. Case in point: J. Press, known for its preppy sportswear for men, has teamed up with Urban Outfitters. While J. Press has a history steeped in Ivy League lore, its partnership with the hipster powerhouse might be just the thing to loosen up its staid image.

Conversely, Urban Outfitters’s disheveled-chic aesthetic could benefit from a bit of polishing. The J. Press designer Mikito Takeshima sprinkled some references to “Happy Days” and “Animal House” into its classics and, faster than you can say “toga party,” a pairing worthy of the coolest slacker at Yale was born: a collection of trim and wool slacks, plaid bomber jackets, blazers with gold hardware, slim button-down oxfords in faded hues and plush crew necks. Add some WASP-y accessories (rep ties and nautical belts) and you’ll be on your way to graduating with a major in style with a minor in effortless cool. J. Press for Urban Outfitters will be available starting Nov. 19.

The Frat Pack

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My Analysis J Press is partnering with Urban Outfitters to create a more relaxed line to be sold in Urban Outfitters stores nationwide. J Press is known for its preppy polished suiting and attire worn by wealthy young men in prestigious Universities. Urban Outfitters, on the other hand, produces more relaxed, hip clothing for the more artistic grunge look.

Through this partnership, the line will relax the J Press image and polish the Urban Outfitters male. I think this partnership will be very successful for both brands. For J Press, a less expensive more casual line is perfect for times of economic downturn, and for Urban, men will appreciate the finer quality and sleeker look provided by J Press designs.

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A current trend for women’s wear in fall, 2010 is the 1950s inspired cocktail dress. The dress is a fit and flared 1950s style prom dress, brought back to life by the popular HBO series, Mad Men. These dresses are being introduced into the retro prim look and are sure to become even more popular throughout the holiday season. Key party dress

The 1950s Inspired Cocktail Dress:

A Classic Made Modern

fabrics such as lace, chiffon and satin are being used in contemporary price point stores, and designer level dresses are being made from bejeweled knits and latex for more of an edgy twist on the classic silhouette. Dresses are embellished with fur trim and corsage pieces, while ribbons and belts are tied around the waist creating an hourglass shape.

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The 1950s style prom dress is a classic silhouette that is flattering on just about any body type. Women everywhere, no matter their age or social standing, can buy this style dress and feel good about the way they look in it. The dress can be altered for each age group by use of embellishment, change of sleeve, length of hem and the fabric used. The silhouette can be easily worn for day or night depending on how the dress is made (including fabric and embellishment) and how it is styled. I think the retro dress has mass appeal because it can easily be created to fit every woman’s life style.

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Men’s apparel for fall of 2010 has become more sophisticated and professional on the runways. The increase in popularity for men’s fashion magazines has made male consumers more conscious of what they add to their wardrobe. Gone are the days when most men leave the house in rugged jeans and a tee shirt, without a care as to whether or not they are perceived as fashion forward.

Men are taking notice of the trends forecast in fashion magazines and advertisements and are easily adapting them to their daily lives. Gentlemen this season are putting much more thought into their outfits, and completing a look that shows their personality. Men’s fashion trends are turning boys into men with button-downs being worn for casual wear and by trading in lighter wash, distressed jeans for dark washes, or even slacks and cords for day and weekend

wear.

Fall Trends: Men’s Apparel

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Pants are being seen in tighter straight or skinny leg fits contouring more to the man’s leg shape. Layering is in effect for fall and men are putting cardigans over almost anything including tee shirts, button downs, or even lightweight sweaters. Vests have been brought back into fashion and can be layered with suits or worn casually.

Colors are saturated earthy with adaptations of neutrals focusing on deep browns, blacks, grays, greens, and orangey reds. Accessories are key this season and can be found by use of heavy, woolen scarves, rugged, classic boots, gloves, watches and head coverings such as knit hats and fedoras. As the weather gets colder, coats in heavy wool are necessary and being shown as pea coats, or single column button coats, both long and short.

Classic trench coats are mixed in for cool, rainy days. Men are having no trouble translating runway trend to their wardrobes because the current fashions are what men want to wear. Inspiration is pulled from classic pieces and is given a modern edge that men have really responded to. 11

High-waist silhouettes are being shown all over the pages of fashion magazines. Pants, skirts and shorts are being made with this high-rise, cinching the waist and elongating the leg line. This trend is easily being translated into affordable fashion for mass market purchasing through adaptations in fabric and quality. Stores such as H&M have taken these designer trend pieces as inspiration and have created similar high-waist silhouette pieces so that consumers on a lower budget can afford the trend.

Big fur vests have been flaunted down several runways and spread all across magazine pages for fall and winter. They are layered atop long sleeved tee shirts and sweaters and paired primarily with leggings and boots. The vests are bold and bulky in shape, giving a warm cozy feel for the colder months. This look is being made at lower price points in faux furs. Although they do not have the same luxurious feel as real fur, the look is incredibly similar. With the use of faux fur, everyone can enjoy this hot fall trend.

Editorial Evaluation

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Home décor in fashion magazines is decorated in lavish furniture, with chandeliers dripping with crystal as the focal point. Chandeliers are being shown in nearly every room now, not just the foyer or dining room as they once were. Once a sign of wealth, chandeliers can now be found in more affordable styles. Places like Home Depot offer incredible chandeliers made of glass that are significantly less expensive than the alternative crystal chandeliers

Models in editorial spreads and on runways are being styled with bold make-up and polish for fall. Lips are being saturated in bright reds and deep purples creating a retro look. Lashes are long and bold over smokey eye shadow for evening, adding drama to the look. Nail polish is painted on fingers in deep, dark reds and plum purples that are almost black. Bold makeup is translated all over the streets being worn by people in all classes. Makeup translates more or less literally depending on peoples’ personal style, but the inspiration is definitely recognizable everywhere.

For men’s fashion in fall and winter of 2010, layering is a must. Cardigans are a key layering piece because of their versatility from dressy to casual, and because they can easily be added or removed. Cardigans are no longer just for grandpas, but are being made into staples for young men too. Made in lighter fabrics, cardigans are easy to layer over tee shirts or button downs without becoming too bulky or heavy. On the runway, cardigans are often shown over button down shirts and slacks. This trend has trickled down to mass-market appeal effortlessly through contemporary price point stores selling well-made cardigans at affordable prices.

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In the fall of 2011, pant legs are going to begin to open up again. Skinny leg pants have become so skinny that designers must recreate the pant leg making it wider. Overall, the shape of the pant will be more relaxed than the current tight fit, offering more movement and comfort throughout the leg. The looser fit will widen at the bottom of the pant creating a larger opening that resembles a slightly larger boot cut. The rise will be higher, almost to the waist. Vintage and retro styling influences this silhouette giving women a sophisticated look that is easy to dress up or down. As more and more women are finding it necessary to go to work in this time of recession, they are looking for work appropriate clothing that is still fashion-forward. Designers are taking note, and will reintroduce pants that are comfortable, practical and appropriate for the office.

Short, miniskirts have run their course, and next season we will be seeing skirts cut around the knee or brushing the ground in flowing fabrics that look ultra feminine. The skirts will hit the torso at the waistline making it easy for women to tuck in their shirts or leave them out. Working women are losing their femininity in boxy suits jackets and stiff skirts and are in need of luxurious vintage inspired pieces that play up a woman’s feminine side, while still maintaining appropriateness. These skirts will be made for both day and night depending on the fabric used. For example, a chiffon skirt could be used for day or night, where finer wool would be used mainly for day and for work attire.

Fashion Forecast

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As the effort to better the environment grows stronger, the more involved the fashion industry becomes. I believe by next fall the majority of designers will have made efforts to be more eco friendly by using natural fabrics over synthetics. Not only are natural fabrics better for the environment, but they are also better for the consumer as they are not made of chemically altered plastics. These fabrics such as wool, silk, cotton, ramie and hemp are more durable and lasting than synthetics, and offer a better hand feel and comfort. Wool, cashmere and silk will be especially prominent in fall of 2011. Wool is a more commonly used fabric in the colder months because of its incredible warm feel. Cashmere is more expensive as it is only obtained from the bottom of the goats’ neck, but it is incredibly soft and luxurious and is an excellent fiber to blend with wool to make the wool fabric less itchy. Silk has always been known for its supple feel and elegant look, and it will be the perfect fabric to mix and match with woolen pieces for play on different textures.

Texture is a feature of fashion that really makes clothing stand out and look different from one collection to another. In fall of 2011, I predict that texture will be a big part of collections from fabric manipulation, to tweeds, crochet knits and chunky sweaters. Heavy, warm clothing makes it easier to incorporate texture into collections because of the heaviness of the fabrics; this makes fall and winter seasons the best times for added texture. Skirts and work dresses will be made in heavy tweeds while sweaters and sweater dresses will be heavy knits with yarn woven in cable knit patterns. Tights will be textured under simple outfits adding an unexpected twist to the look. Men’s fashion will incorporate this trend through heavy, woven and tight-crochet, well fitting sweaters, and rugged, rough textured jackets. This trend is influenced by the environment and change in outside temperature.

As technology continues to advance, fashion advances right along with it. Next year, I expect to see new patterns as a result of increased adaptations and usage of technological advances. Patterns and graphics will bring clothing to life in a way they have yet been able to. Previously, graphics have tended to look cheap and tacky on clothing, due to a lack of innovation and the necessary tools and inspiration for a cohesive flow. As society’s dependence on technology grows, so will the demand for “futuristic” looking clothing with imagery.

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What Once Was Old is New Again: A Look Back

The classic fedora style hat, made famous by Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack in the 1950s has made a comeback in recent fashion. It was once worn with suits, and has now been adapted to fit current trends. Fedora hats are now being made not only in structured wool, but also in more casual cottons and straw. In addition, not only are men wearing the trend, but women have also adapted the style to their wardrobes, pairing the fedora with casual jeans and sweaters.

In the mid 1900s fur was a status symbol. Women loved the look and feel of fur. Those who had the money for fur were investing in these lavish pieces, and those who didn’t were purchasing faux fur to achieve the same look for less. This fall and winter, fur, both real and faux is a fashion must. Fur is being produced as coats and vests, and used as trimming and liners. Not only is this fabric incredibly warm and sensible for cold weather, but it also gives an expensive, wealthy look. As we are currently experiencing an economic town-turn, women are getting out their heirloom furs passed down from generation to generation so they can feel luxury again. Real furs are still being worn and seen as status symbols, just as they were in the mid 1900s.

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In the 1950s, women began wearing giant “bug” style sunglasses that covered about a third of the face. These sunglasses were made of plastic and were often in dark colors such as browns, blacks or tortoise shell print. Women wore these sunglasses with every style outfit, dressy or casual. Today in fashion, we see the size of sunglasses increasing dramatically. The style is identical to the glasses that were initially produced and are again being worn with every style outfit. Sunglasses are a vital part of women’s accessories in current fashion and are even influencing the style of prescription glasses.

Hair in the 1950s was normally curled and well shaped with no imperfections. The styles were crafted perfectly and hairsprayed thickly as to not fall out of place. Hair in current fashion spreads is styled curly with side parts, a modern take on the classic old Hollywood look. More literal translations of these hairstyles today can be found on young celebrities such as Katy Perry who styles her hair after pin-up girls and Katherine Heigl who goes for a more classic Marilyn Monroe look.

Leopard Print was seen everywhere in classic old Hollywood style. Women wore the print in evening gowns, tops, skirts, fur coats and on accessories. Pin-up girls were often seen in leopard print, giving their outfits an added sex appeal. Leopard print today is worn in very similar ways. Coats are made in leopard print faux fur (as it has been made illegal to buy and sell real leopard print fur), sexy cocktail dresses are staple items in the print and leopard shoes, scarves and gloves add a pop to every outfit. Leopard print has covered all of the fashion magazines for fall, making the print a must have this season. 17

Textile Trends

Scalloped Lace

100% Nylon

China

Stretch Velvet

97% Cotton, 3% Spandex

United States

Wool Knit Blend

70% Wool, 30% Polyester

United States

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Color Trends

Olive Green

Wine

Nude

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This window display is from Macy’s on State Street in Chicago. The display is decorated for the holiday season with red wrapping paper covering the display table and walls. The clothing on display are pieces from Macy’s celebrity lines such as Jessica Simpson. I think the display is visually appealing because it is clearly decorated for the season, yet it is not overwhelming as many holiday visual displays often are. I also thought it was a good marketing strategy to have a special display just for celebrity lines. This appeals to customers who aspire to dress like celebrities, and motivates them to come into the store to shop not only for presents, but for themselves, too.

Macy’s on State Street

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H&M on State Street This is the window display from H&M on State Street in Chicago. The floor and background are vibrant red, and the large picture in the background uses sex appeal to draw in the customer. The displays appeal to me because of the styling with cute holiday pieces, mixed and matched prints and bold jewelry. The sale marketing is placed well in the corner, and is not overtaking the visuals, which keeps the window looking clean and well put together. I also like how the back of the display is clear so you can see into the store, enticing the customer to come in and shop around.

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Fashion Variance

Some fabrics and detailing used in home décor influence the fabrics used in fashion. For example, lace is a popular trimming used on upholstery and pillows and is often used for drapery as well. Lace has been integrated into fashion as a trend fabric used in everything from formal wear, to dressy tops, to lingerie. No matter which context or industry lace is being used, it always translates a feminine, vintage feel.

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Architecture can create a beautiful shape giving influence to the fashion industry’s silhouette structures. The design of the angles and height create dynamic shapes that influence fashion to look modern and well structured with new dimensions. Also, the details on buildings such as molding, windows, columns, or materials used to make the structures inspire new innovative designs in clothing lines.

The food industry, especially the dessert segment can be highly influential on colors used in the fashion industry. A main ingredient in the artful presentation of food is the appealing color assortment by use of colored fruits and vegetables and in desserts, died frosting and fondant. Some designers find great inspiration in colored cookies for eccentric, colorful designs on handbags.

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This design is from Moschino’s Cheap and Chic collection for resort 2011. The collection featured retro inspired pieces including whimsical takes on ladylike jackets and sweaters, modern twists on classic dresses and big-jeweled costume jewelry. Because the line is for resort season, most of the pieces are light and colorful, but the collection also mixed in a few warmer pieces in darker colors that are appropriate anywhere for the colder months. I think the line is very modern and witty while still be sophisticated and very wearable. The looks are very feminine and figure flattering and would be appropriate for many body types. This line is targeted for young women (18-35) living a chic up-town lifestyle. She is wealthy, has a respected career and likes to take vacations in paradise during the winter months. Retailers such as Neimen Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue would carry this line in their designer departments in urban locations such as new York, Chicago and Los Angeles.

Moschino

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This is my favorite look from Moschino’s Cheap and Chic Resort 2011 collection because of how simple, yet detailed this jacket is. The silhouette is timeless and classic and the craftsmanship on the tweed looks luxurious and rich. The bow and elegant collar makes the jacket ultra feminine and sweet. I think any girl could put on this look and feel amazing about the way she looks.

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Fashion Faux Peaus

Fur boots are a fashion do not ever unless you’re trying to look like a Yeti. Not only do they make your feet and calves appear to be disproportionately large in comparison to the rest of your body, but they look as if there is an animal attached to your feet. In addition, these boots are not at all practical for weather that you wear boots in, as the littlest bit of rain or snow will ruin the fur, making the boots unwearable.

Wearing thigh-high tights with a dress or a skirt that shows the skin on your upper thigh is inappropriate and tacky in every situation. Thigh-highs are designed to be worn with dresses that cover your thigh, or in the bedroom, not in public exposing leg. If you want to wear hosiery under your clothes, wear tights. They look classy and don’t overexpose what shouldn’t be shown.

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Men wearing nail polish is not acceptable. Nail polish is meant for women and women only. Nail polish on a man looks absolutely ridiculous, as if they’re going through a gender crisis. Metro sexual males are great and women like their men to be well kempt and taken care of, but gentlemen, please, when you get a manicure to keep your nails looking clean, stick to natural nails.

Capri pants are great for many types of women, including young girls who aren’t old enough to be showing too much leg and older women who like loose fitted linen clothing, but capris are never acceptable for men. Capri pants on men look as if their pants are either too short, or their shorts are too long. In the warmer months, men should definitely stick to wearing shorts. Not only do shorts keep you cooler, but they also look much more fashion forward.

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Fashion Professions Fashion Event Planner A Fashion Event Planner increases the visibility of design houses, brands, products, or fabrics by coordinating fashion events that provide exposure. There are many different events a Fashion Event Planner can be responsible for, including: trunk shows that spotlight new designer lines, educational events to inform an audience about a product, book-signings in which well-known fashion writers agree to sign copies of their books for consumers in public spaces, and party planning to kick-off a new designer line. Responsibilities for Fashion Event Planners include hiring models, locating and reserving venues, and assembling merchandise to be featured in shows and magazine spreads. This career would be a good fit for me because I love to plan events. I am good at deciding what is appropriate and necessary for a certain event and I feel I would be good at knowing how to promote products through parties and shows. I want to work in an environment that is frequently new and changing, and this career does just that.

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Publicity Director A Publicity Director is responsible for securing publicity for the particular retailer or fashion house and may collaborate with other departments to create events such as fashion shows and celebrity appearances. The director provides the media with information about events, hoping that the media will publicize them. This job becomes difficult because there are no media costs for publicity, making it difficult to obtain. I think I would be good at this career because I feel I would be able to find new, exciting ways to gain recognition and publicity for companies I work for. I am good at coming up with new ideas and keeping things interesting; which makes the media want to publicize a company.

Buyer A buyer is typically responsible for all of the product purchases for a company or particular department of a company within a certain budget. Buyers monitor fashion trends and determine which seasonal trends will sell well to their target consumer. They search for the items their consumers will want to buy, locate suppliers, and negotiate prices, shipping and discounts. Buyers sometimes work with other departments in the retail operation on advertising and product placement. I believe a buying position would suit me well because I feel I am good at getting to know consumers, and would be able to purchase products specific to target markets. I would love to be the person in charge of deciding and purchasing the product to fill the shelves of retail stores. I also think I would be good at deciding what products would suit the different regions the stores are located in, as well as figuring out how much product to buy so that I don’t end up with leftover product that does not sell.

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"I'm selfish, impatient and a little insecure. I make mistakes, I am out of control and at times hard to handle. But if you can't handle me at my worst, then you sure as hell don't deserve me at my best."

"Imperfection is beauty, madness is genius and it's better to be absolutely ridiculous than absolutely boring."

“For beautiful eyes, look for the good in others; for beautiful lips, speak only words of kindness; and for poise, walk with the knowledge that you are never alone.”

The Women from whom I find inspiration

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My name is Courtney Osborne and I believe I am the perfect fit for your open position. I am a fast learner, self-motivated and detail oriented when working on projects or tasks. I work quickly and efficiently and never stop until the task is complete and flawless. Because I am just starting my career, I have fresh new ideas and an abundance of creativity to contribute to the industry and to help this company be on top. I am sure I have the potential to move up in the company after proving my skills and capability and will be very loyal to the company. I have four years of experience in the industry working for three very different types of retailers, which I feel have helped immensely in my understanding of the retail industry and its inner workings. I know for a fact that I am the perfect fit for this job and once given the opportunity to work for your company, I will only grow in professionalism and capability and will never produce anything but top-of-the-line work and excellent performance in meeting goals.

Fashion Mantra

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Through this journal I have learned that the art of fashion is what I am truly passionate about, and is the right

career path for me. I am excited to see where this industry leads me.

The End

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