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Fashion Journal Introduction to Fashion Business Angello Trupia 2013

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Fashion JournalIntroduction to Fashion Business

Angello Trupia

2013

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_________________________________________________________________________________________________

Women’s Wear Daily………………………………………………………………………………………… ...2

Forbes…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………5

Fashion Trends…………………………………………………………………………………………………….7

Spring Fashion 2012 vs 2013………………………………………………………………………………..9

Shop a Department Store………………………………………………………………………………...….10

Trend Report……………………………………………………………………………………………………..11

Paint Chips………………………………………………………………………………………………………...12

Predict the Future……………………………………………………………………………………………...13

Visual Displays…………………………………………………………………………………………………..14

TV Show Fashion………………………………………………………………………………………………..16

Ready to Wear……………………………………………………………………………………………………17

Responsibilities………………………………………………………………………………………………….18

Fashion Don’ts…………………………………………………………………………………………………...20

Career Opportunities………………………………………………………………………………………….23

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Entry #1WWD Article (February 22, 2013)

Owners Daniela Sacerdote and Alberto Zambeletti (pharmaceutical company

Zambeletti) want to celebrate its 30th anniversary of when their company first

launched back in 1983 by releasing limited editions of some of its best-selling

products throughout 2013. In my opinion there is no better way to celebrate 30

years in the cosmetic world by releasing limited editions of their products- it says,

“we’re happy to still be here” without going over the top and remaining humble.

Sometimes promos like this one, are good ways to professionally acknowledge those

who have made a difference in their industry without pointing your thumbs at

yourself.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

Made In Italy: Collistar Marks 30 Years

The Made In Italy label carries weight in beauty as well as fashion, and

cosmetics brand Collistar is a prime example. The company is blowing out 30

candles this year, and to celebrate, the firm is unveiling limited editions of some of

its best-selling products throughout 2013, including a lipstick packaged in a Murano

glass. Daniela Sacerdote has been there since the beginning, when Alberto

Zambeletti, owner of pharmaceutical company Zambeletti and the fledging Collistar

brand, recruited her in 1983 as chief executive officer, a role she has held ever since.

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She believed Collistar could carve out a specialized niche, offering quality products

at lower prices than typically found in perfumeries. “I have always deliberately

worked for Italian companies — it was a choice,” said Sacerdote.

Before her arrival at Collistar, she held a marketing position at Bertelli

cosmetics, worked for the Fiorucci fashion brand as image director, and later at

Deborah cosmetics as marketing director. “For me, it was important to build here.”

Three decades later, Collistar is thriving, with 193.5 million euros in volume in

2011, or about $255 million at current exchange. It has been owned by the Bolton

Group since 1993. Product origin is paramount to the brand’s identity: from the

outset, Collistar was exclusively Made in Italy, conceived at the headquarters in the

research and development department and produced in collaboration with

specialized partners throughout northern Italy. “I always thought it was a shame

that the name doesn’t sound Italian,” Sacerdote observed, “but the fact that [the

brand] was Made in Italy — I definitely wanted that to be clear.” The Milan native

noted that most cosmetics companies in the Eighties labeled packages in French or

English, but Collistar used Italian labeling with English and French as subtitles.

The company still relies on Italian labels, although with international

expansion it became necessary to include leaflets in a wide range of languages,

which total 18 today, including Arabic and Russian. Originally limited to make-up

and a handful of eye creams, Collistar seized on an opening in the market for

products that targeted specific problem areas of the body, and in 1985 began

developing creams for the stomach, legs, breasts, hands and face, in addition to a

range of anticellulite capsules, which it initially struggled to sell. “The first year that

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we came out with them, we barely sold anything,” Sacerdote said. “It was a trauma.

The year after that, we came out with a cream sold alongside the capsules, and from

then on, the capsules sold well.” Today, 60 percent of the business is skin care and

40 percent makeup. In Italy, Collistar has been the top-selling brand for 10

consecutive years in terms of volume, and currently accounts for 16 percent of skin

care; 21.7 percent of body care; 57.5 percent of anti-cellulite products; 50.3 percent

of exfoliants; 31 percent of men’s grooming products; 35.7 percent of sun care

products; 49 percent of self-tanners and 13 percent of make-up sales, according to

The NPD Group market research firm. Collistar was first available outside Italy in

1996, when it entered Malta and Portugal. Exports now make up 34 percent of

Collistar’s business, and worldwide, the brand is present at 6,500 doors. The

Netherlands is an important market, with 540 doors, and new areas include Poland

(103 doors at perfumery Douglas) and Russia, where distributors L’Etoile and

Exagone bring the door count to 820. Collistar entered China last July, and is

available in all 125 Sephora shops in the country.

This year, 80 sales locations in Germany will carry Collistar for the first time

through an agreement with Karstadt. Sacerdote hopes some of the energy she has

witnessed abroad will return to Italy, which has suffered from Europe’s prolonged

economic crisis. “Those are countries that are opening up,” she said. “There’s an

effervescence and vitality that unfortunately doesn’t exist in Italy right now. I’d

really love for this dynamism, this passion, this vitality to come back to us.”

http://www.wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/color-cosmetics/made-in-italy-collistar-marks-30-

years-6786700?module=beauty-industry-news-color-cosmetics-page-1

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Entry #2Forbes Article (January 4, 2013)

The further a team goes in the NCAA tournament, the more money goes in

the pockets of the head coach and the conference the team is affiliated with. Head

coaches Rick Pitino, John Beilein and Greg Marshall have already collected a total of

almost $700,000. Because Pitino and Beilein are still in the tournament they each

can make additional 150K for the winning the whole thing. I think the coaches

should get bonuses for taking his team far into the playoffs, same with conferences,

why not? If a low seeded team can make past the first few rounds recruits look at as

potential leading them to believe they can be the reason to turn that team around

which in turn brings more revenue to the schools. It’s a win-win-win.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

The Money Behind the NCAA Final Four

Head coaches Rick Pitino, John Beilein and Greg Marshall have collected a

total $690,000 from tournament bonuses thus far. Pitino and Beilein can each make

another $150,000 for winning the title game, and Marshall’s championship bonus is

$200,000. Syracuse‘s Jim Boeheim has undoubtedly earned some valuable incentive

payouts but details of his contract are not publicly available.

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Each Final Four team has maxed out its earning potential for its conference

because the championship game is not counted toward the NCAA’s conference

distributions. A run to the Final Four accrues a team’s conference five basketball

units, one for each game played, which are worth an estimated total $7.7 million

over the next six years.

Those conference payouts are made possible by the NCAA’s TV deals with CBS and

Turner. Last year the two networks generated over $1 billion from the tournament,

thanks in part to a $700,000 ad rate for a 30-second spot during the Final Four. The

championship game demanded nearly twice that.

Louisville is the only remaining No. 1 seed and, perhaps not coincidentally,

college basketball’s most valuable team, worth $38.5 million. The Cardinals

generated around $25 million in basketball profit in 2011-12; only five other teams

generated as much in total revenue. Syracuse ranks ninth among the sport’s most

valuable programs, worth $19.2 million this year. The two programs will only get

richer as they move to the ACC; Syracuse joins later this year and Louisville in 2014.

Wichita State, though able to knock off top seeds Gonzaga and Ohio State in the West

Region, is hardly a contender in terms of financial success. The Shockers basketball

team was barely able to scrape out a profit last year, and the school’s entire athletic

department reported annual revenue of $19.8 million. Louisville’s basketball team,

meanwhile, generated more than $20 million just from contributions alone.

http://www.forbes.com/sites/chrissmith/2013/04/01/the-money-behind-the-ncaa-final-four/

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Entry #3Fashion Trends (May 6, 2013)

Punk has been around for years, This year the Met Gala honored this fashion

movement by dedicating the theme as Punk. This style is identified the attitude as

“Punk rock”. The way a person dresses is a way for them to display their

personalities and current attitude. It could be something small like motor boots to

having their arms covered in tattoos. This seems like something the typical

Columbia student would be interested in, like myself. I personally like the rugged,

edgy, yet still presentable look. To me, this type of fashion lets people dress with

expression and style.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

Street Art: Humans of New York Captures Punk's Enduring Influence

When Vogue.com asked me to help them honor the punk theme of this year’s

Met Gala launching the Costume Institute exhibit, I sifted through the vast Humans

of New York archives, searching for people and styles that seem to represent punk

culture in New York. I want to be clear that I’m not calling anyone a “punk.” In most

cases, I have no clue how the people in these photographs choose to identify

themselves. By featuring their portraits in this collection, I’m saying that they have

made style choices that fit in with my personal view of “punk rock.” Maybe it’s just a

single tattoo. Maybe it’s a studded leather jacket. Maybe it’s pink hair. Maybe it’s

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simply an attitude. With all the overlapping trends and fashions in New York, it’s

impossible to totally discern the origins of any look. But to my mind, these are

people who have drawn some inspiration from punk rock. And it’s the intention of

this feature—which will be updated daily until the gala on May 6—to celebrate that.

http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/humans-of-new-york-

catalog-punks-influence/#1

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Entry # 4 Spring Fashion 2012 X 2013

When it comes to women’s fashion in the spring time, I’ve noticed a drastic

change in the colors that are trending now compared to last year. Last year I feel like

the main focus was about blues and reds and different levels of medium-dark; this

year is quite the opposite. From my observation it seems like women are dressing a

lot brighter with more colors this season: with light blues, high yellows, and fair

pinks and even with a dash of gold somewhere in their outfits. I feel as though some

men’s apparel is “lighting up” a bit, while most are still trying to keep the masculine

look with more earth tone colors. Vibrant highlighter colors are huge right now and

so is gold, but I don’t think the bright colors will last all year around, where-as gold I

think is pretty much a timeless element and as long as gold has a high value it will

sell well in the fashion world too.

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Entry #5Shop a Department Store

I shopped at Neiman Marcus off Michigan Ave. The trends I saw were a lot of

patterns but what had popped out at me were the items that had a grungy modern

look. The colors generally went from flat to vibrant. (fabrics to leathers, jackets to

shoes to handbags and even jewelry). Canvas and leathers were incorporated in the

clothing as well as bags and shoes.

- Studs/stones

- Lace

- Brightness in color

- Shimmery leather

- Soft/flimsy material

Most of these trends were intertwined with each other, like the studs and

shimmery leather went hand and hand in almost every item. (jackets, bags). The soft

material was generally seen with a lot lace and that mostly was featured with tops

for women. Not all but most of the gentler pieces of clothing were very delicate.

Finally, the color, which I observed in nearly every section of the store had high hues

of vibrant colors that were attached to articles of clothing from accessories to shoes,

to coats, to shirts. As I predicted that would be the case considering a lot of different

colors are the biggest trend of them all.

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Entry #6Trend Report

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Entry #7Paint Chips

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Entry #8

Predict The Future

The trends for the next two seasons will differ from the current season by

only a few alterations. The global trends for fall and Winter will have heavier fabrics.

The Patterns will have more of a graphic feel. The colors will be more of an earthy

tone. Colors like Deep oxford and dark blues will be popping out. The reason for this

is because the bright color trends will always be around, but only seasonly through

the spring. Deep blues, dirty reds and musty whites will soon be the look to have 8-

10 months out of the year. The trend has already started in such countries as

London, France, and India. The reason why India is also included in that list is

because some of companies are manufactured from there and slowly but surely

those trends are leaking out into their own homeland.

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Entry #9Visual Displays (Barney’s & Neiman’s)

The Givenchy visual display attracted me because of the bright color that is

used and how the frame is not centered to the mannequin. Everything about this

display is simple yet complexed. The wires that are left out for the public to see, give

the simple outfit a chaotic feel.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

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Entry # 10TV Show Fashion

I watch The Carrie Diary because of the fashion. The show itself isn’t quite

entertaing but the fashion is so interesting that it keeps me coming back for more. I

can see how this show could play an imporant role in the direction fashion is

heading. The show is all about mixing patterns and colors and texurs. Nothing ever

matches. This show will hopefuly inspire the younger generatations style

development, since they air it on The W. The show is baised in the 90’s. The 80’s

was a fashion trend that was in style a few seasons ago. The 90’s will be following

shortly. Everything will be big and bright.

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Entry #11Ready to Wear

These designs are by the House of Chanel, By Karl Lagerfeld. This is the

Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2013 collection. Chanel has only 3 doors that they sell

out of; Neiman Marcus, Saks Firth Ave and the Chanel store.  I’m in love with this

season and all of the designs because Karl took the classic Chanel and redesigned

everything with a rough edgy vibe. Lots of gunmetal and lots of chains. He took the

classic tweed but made it darker. The Lego and Globe bags are incredible.

http://firstview.com/collection.php?id=35525

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Entry #12Responsibilities

Fashion Designer - A fashion designer is responsible for creating the sketches

of the ideas that will be designed. They experiment with colors and material

combinations. They bring the sketches to life by sewing samples; testing garments

then eventually piece it all together.  Once established, the designer has staff to help

assist with the responsibilities. They sew the garments and or make the patterns.

Also once established, the designer is responsible for keeping on top of the changes

that happen every season.

Buyer - A fashion buyer must be highly analytical, must be very

knowledgeable with computers and have the ability to work under pressure. When

being a buyer, you hold a lot of responsibilities for the company. You must

understand the company’s past purchasing methods and how the consumers

responded. The buyer must keep track of how the products are moving in the

company. Which means keeping constant contact with the retail staffers.

The buyer must be up to date on all the fashion trends and must always be a head of

the crowd. The consumers depend on them to set what is in style. The buyer must

be able to see what will be in style years ahead of now.  To remain on top, they are

staying educated by reading all trending articles and attend numerous fashion vents.

Product Development Manager - A fashion product developer is responsible

with creating fashion forward ideas for the manufacturers and retailers. They have

to present to the clients the best product for their clients specific market. The job is

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a combination of designing and merchandising. They are in charge of keeping the

production going. Which entails checking on the statuses, keeping contact with the

production line, and venders. The job also includes overlooking the scheduling of

the production, handling the material specification sheets, data entry,

corresponding with the vendors, track the production, and handling the e-mail

correspondence with the factories.

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Entry #13Fashion Don’ts

These 3 all are fashion don’ts because of two reasons, the shoes and the hats. The hats are over done and obnoxious and the shoes are to think and chunky. Materials don’t match well, as well as the accessories. Both of which seem out of place and literally thrown together as seen in picture two.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

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of pink on the sweater give this already feminize outfit even more of a girly vibe. I

like to call this the Albino Flamingo.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

The socks and sandal combination is one of fashion oldest No No. The

picture says it all.

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Entry #14Career Opportunities

Career Opportunity #1:

If I’m going to dream I’m going to dream big! My dream job would be the

owner or partner of some kind of management/talent agency firm. I think being the

head guy at a major firm world would be coolest job to have. For one, you’re

connected with the biggest players in entertainment, but really the most exciting

part of the job for me would be that I had something to with all their success- that to

me would be a great feeling. Being an owner or a partner would be a good job for me

anywhere because I work well others I just have a hard time working under

someone who I know isn’t as qualified as I am to do the job. I say all this because I

feel that wherever I end up no one is going to accelerate in anything more than me.

That’s just my competitive nature.

Career Opportunity #2:

I’d like to think of myself as more of artistic business man rather than a

business man with a taste for the arts. And what I mean by that is I was born to do

something creative and it wasn’t until I attended Columbia I really like the business

side of companies so what I really could see myself doing is marketing and

advertisement. That to me would be the job I would most likely get straight of

college and be perfectly happy with that. I have a lot of good ideas for marketing and

I can put my own artistic spin on it making stand out a little more than the average

advertiser.

Career Opportunity #3:

I realize this job has nothing to do with major but I could definitely see

myself as a head coach for a sports team somewhere at the collegiate or pro level.

My first love as a child was sports. Growing up I played everything as a kid and even

though I’m 23 years old now and it’s harder for me to play organized sports I still do

my best to go out and find a pickup game somewhere (field or court).

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