Fancy yarns

Fancy yarns whose appearance differs significantly from that of a simple yarn due to irregularities deliberately produced during their formation are called fancy yarns.

PRODUCTION METHODS OF FANCY YARNS

• Most fancy yarns are produced by specialist fancy spinners, using machines modified or developed for the purpose.

• Others are produced from• ‘Fancy slivers’, which are used as minor components in yarns made by spinners using

normal equipment.• Still others are made exclusively from continuous filament, using adaptations or

extensions of the air jet texturing process. • Finally, it is also possible to produce an appearance that resembles some of the effects

produced by incorporating slub yarns in a woven fabric,• Without the expense in materials incurred by the use of the yarns themselves.

USES OF FANCY YARNS

• Ladies dress material• Men's suiting• Slippers and sandals• ties• Scarves• Belts• Knitted wears

Furnishing fabrics such as Curtains Cushion covers Table cloths Wall hangings

1. Single Yarn

It has one strand and is the simplest type.  It is the product of the first twisting operation that is performed by the spinning machine.  These simple single yarns require no additional processing once the individual yarns have been formed. 

Tweed

Flecks of color from short fibers are twisted into the yarn special interest.  The cohesiveness of wool fibers explains why tweeds are often made of wool.  It is found in apparel, upholstery and draperies.

Slub yarn

Most slub yarns are single yarns produced by uneven twisting.  At intervals, the twist in the yarn is reduced to produce a soft bulky area. 

Varying the amount of materials or twists in the yarn at regular or random intervals, this makes this thick-and-thin yarn.  Slub yarns can be found in shantung, drapery, and upholstery fabrics as well as in hand knitting yarns and sweaters. Some of the rayon and polyester yarns make to resemble linen.

2. Ply Yarn 

There are two plies in the fancy yarns.  One ply may be of one color whereas the other of a different color.  The plies may be of differing thickness.  A two-ply fancy yarn may have one spun ply combined with a filament ply.  Frequently a fancy yarn in ply will have three basic parts:

1. the ground, or foundation or core 2. the effect or fancy 3. the binder

Marl Yarn

• A marl yarn is one in which two yarns of• The same count and twist, but of different colours, are folded together to• Form a balanced yarn

Ratine

The effect ply is twisted in a somewhat spiral arrangement around the ground ply.  At intervals, a longer loop is thrown out, kinks back on itself, and is held in place by the binder.

Spiral

The spiral yarns are produced from two piles. Each of which may vary in color, count and twist.  A spiral yarn has a fine, hard-twists as its core; this is wrapped with a coarse, loosely twisted ply.

KnotThis can be achieved by twisting the effect ply many times in the  same place makes it.  Two effect plies of different colors may be used and the knots arranged so the colored spots are alternated along the length of yarn.  A binder is added during the twisting operation.

Snarl

The effect ply forms by alternating unclosed loops along both sides of the yarn.

Boucle

It is characterized by tight loops projecting from the body of the yarn at fairly regular intervals.  

Some boucle yarns are made by air-jet texturing, but most are three-ply constructions. The three parts of the yarn are the core, the effect, and the tie, or binder.The effect yarn that produces the loops is wrapped around a core, or base yarn, and then the third ply, or binder, is wrapped over the effect ply to hold the loops in place.  The individual plies may be filament or spun yarns.  Their characteristics determine the ultimate design effect.

Chenille

True chenille yarns are produced from a woven leno fabric’s structure that is slit into narrow, warpwise strips to serve as yarn.

They are pile yarns; the pile length may be uniform throughout the length of the yarn, or it may vary in length to produce a yarn of irregular dimensions. They are used in furnishings and apparel.

CLOUD OR GRANDRELLE YARN

• The two threads of different colours used to create the yarn are manipulated in such a manner that each thread alternately forms the base and cover to ‘cloud’ the opposing thread.

• It is made by alternate fast and slow deliveries from two pairs of rollers. • Because the yarns alternate in forming the base yarn, no dedicated core yarn is

required. They are used to add color effects and are found in suiting, coating, shirting and home furnishing fabrics.

METALLIC

It has been used for thousands of years.  Metallic yarns may be monofilament fibers or combined in ply yarns.  Two processes are now used to produce metallic yarns.  

The laminating process seals a layer of aluminum between two layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarns.  The film may be colorless, so the aluminum foils shows through, or the film and/or the adhesive may be colored before the laminating process.  The metallizing process vaporizes the aluminum under high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film.

DIAMOND YARN

• A diamond yarn is made by folding a thick single yarn or roving with a fine yarn or filament of contrasting colour using S-twist, and cabling it with a similar fine yarn using Z-twist.

• Multi-fold or ‘cabled’ yarns may be produced by extending and varying this technique, to produce a wide range of effects.

SEED AND SPLASHSeveral authorities classify seed and splash yarns as nub or knot yarns.  However, there are some differences.  While a nub yarn has an enlarged segment, the splash yarn has an elongated segment that is somewhat longer and thinner than that of the nub yarn; and seed yarn had a much smaller enlarged area than either a nub or splash yarns.

CORKSCREW

Corkscrew looks similar to the spiral yarn.  It is formed by twisting two piles that differ in size together, type or twist makes it.  These two parts may be delivered to the twister at different rates of speed.  These yarns are used in furnishings and apparel. 

Nub

It is very similar to the knot yarn.  It is also made by twisting the effect ply many times in same place.  

Two effect plies of different colors may be used and the knots arranged so the colored spots alternate along the length of the yarns.  A binder is added during the twisting operation.  These yarns are used in apparel and furnishings.

Loop

Loop yarn looks like boucle yarn.  It has closed loops at regular intervals along the yarn.  

These yarns are used in fabrics to create a looped pile that resembles caracul lambskin and is called astrakhan cloth. They are also used to give textured effects to other fabrics.  Mohair, rayon and acetate are often used for the effect ply.  These yarns are used in apparel and furnishings.

Gimp

It is similar to ratine yarn.  The effect ply of the yarn is twisted in a somewhat spiral arrangement around the ground ply.

At intervals, a longer loop is thrown out, kinks back on itself, and is held in place by the binder.  These yarns are used primarily furnishings.