Fair Trade Magazine - Winter / Spring 2015

fair tradeF R E E

Winter / Spring 2015

C A N A D A’ S V O I C E F O R S O C I A L S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y

Traditional farming in Peru

Labour relations in the cut-flower industry

Small-holder coffee growers

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C F T N .C A | 3

growing change

10 We Are Also Part of This World The Fairtrade Africa board chairman, Adam Tampuri,

presents his view on fair trade and the benefits he’s seen in small-farmer communities across Africa.

16 Agroforestry for Resilient Communities South American farmers integrate crops to increase

productivity and profits. See how traditional farming methods are building stable co-operatives.

recipe

features

Yam Enchiladas with MoleLooking to incorporate fair trade into your cooking? We have something delicious in mind.

Equal ArrangementsFrom union-busting to pesticide-induced health problems, the cut-flower industry is rife with human rights issues. See how fair trade empowers workers to confront these challenges.

Small-Holder Coffee GrowersCoffee farmers living in remote villages have little means to connect their product to international markets, making for tenuous relationships with local middlemen.

w inter / spr ing 2015 | issue #5

28

20

25 on the cover

Chief Adam Tampuri .................................................. 10

Flower industry workers ...........................................20

Coffee growers ............................................................... 25

inside

Publisher’s Letter ............................................................6

What Is Fair Trade? ........................................................7

Fair Trade in Canada .....................................................8

book review

30 Buying Into Fair Trade: Culture, Morality, and Consumption

photo credits

Bryce Tarling: 3 (bottom), 28–9

Cindy Hu: 10

Fairtrade Canada: 9 (top), 13

Fair Trade Winnipeg: 8

McGill University: 9 (bottom)

Julie Sage: Cover, 16–8

Shutterstock: 3, 7, 20–3, 25–6

4 | FA I R T R A D E M A G A Z I N E C A N A D A’ S V O I C E F O R S O C I A L S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

PublisherSean McHugh

Managing EditorBryce Tarling

Associate Editorand DesignerErik Johnson

We want to hear from you!514 – 207 West Hastings Street,

Vancouver, BC V6B 1H7 1-604-785-0084 | [email protected]

The Canadian Fair Trade Network (CFTN) is a non-profit organization that works with civil society and industry stakeholders to advance awareness and support for fair trade in Canada. It supports collaboration and best practices within the fair trade movement to increase Canadian commitments to international social responsibility. cftn.ca

Fair Trade Magazine is published by the Canadian Fair Trade Network. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without publisher’s written permission. Not responsible for unsolicited editorial material.

The information provided in this magazine is for educational and informational purposes only. Fair Trade Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it provides but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions.

Canadian Fair Trade NetworkRéseau canadien du commerce équitable

C F T N .C A | 5


publisher’s letter

Change is upon us…

A mong the muck and the mire—the worn-out debates and the increasing scope of social issues—we’re seeing

new, positive ideas not only emerging but gaining traction at incredible rates. Like never before, we’re seeing more urgency and support in dealing with issues critical to the future of our planet. More people are standing up and voicing their opinions. Mainstream publications, amplified through social media, are taking a more critical stance on social and environmental issues. And while there are those who will resist change or view it with apathy, a growing majority is optimistic about the possibility of a brighter tomorrow. Current trends in energy consumption, agriculture, manufacturing, and resource extraction—exacerbated by irresponsible government and trade policies—have left the future of our planet in question. And while the voices of many have been pushing for improvement, we’ve suffered from fragmentation and disconnect, hindering our potential.

Moving forward, our ability to come together and voice a clear vision for the future will be what makes a difference. Fair trade is a tool for improving the world around us, and it’s being adopted and applied around the globe. We’re seeing new products, more support from producers, exciting new commitments in accountability and transparency, and growing trade among nations in the global south. As more people choose to spread awareness in their communities, their leadership is driving the movement to new heights. As a result, more consumers, public institutions, and businesses value transparency, trust, and accountability in the things they buy. Fair trade represents a complex network of relationships, but at its heart are people—people who care about the future, their families, and their communities. They want to see equal opportunity for everyone—something all of us can understand and support. We can contribute to this change, but we need to challenge ourselves to do more. Push for improvements in public transit. Demand more from our health and education systems. Look beyond traditional sources of energy. Make sustainable purchasing through fair trade a priority. Together we can and will change the world around us.

Sean McHughPublisher, Executive DirectorCanadian Fair Trade Network

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What Is Fair Trade?Fair trade is a powerful tool that aims to empower marginalized producers

to improve their own living conditions. With the proper resources, capacity,

and access to key relationships, disadvantaged producers are able to earn

their own means to a better life for themselves and their communities.

Protections versus rightsMa ny internationa l development programs are geared toward establishing protections for workers around the world, yet workers wouldn’t need these protections if they had proper rights to begin with. Fair trade aims to empower producers by ensuring they have access to the rights they deserve. This involves letting them have their say in the issues that affect them.

Process and verificationFair trade products can be just like any other. Because production and trade standards cannot be verified by looking at a final product, certification and labelling systems are used to verify fair practices.

The fair trade movementFair trade offers a vehicle for promoting discussion and awareness around global issues. It’s about rethinking our production and consumption systems, and recognizing the role we play in creating a fair and sustainable world. Despite its long history among niche markets, fair trade is relatively new for mainstream consumers, and it is still evolving. The fair trade of today won’t be the fair trade of tomorrow. It is our responsibility—whether it be as a consumer, business, institution, or certifier—to ensure that our notions

of fair trade continually meet the challenges of global development. We have the power to make choices that support greater accountability and transparency. By supporting the awareness and availability of fair trade products, we encourage a more responsible vision for the future while contributing to the development of sustainable communities.

Goals for fair trade

• Producers are paid a fair price

that covers costs of production

and adequate living standards for

hired labour.

• Producer groups ensure high

standards for labour, environmental

sustainability, and respect for

cultural identity.

• Producers are paid a premium

that supports business

development and community

initiatives such as improving

access to health and education.

• Producers, consumers, and

businesses build stronger

connections, reducing

inefficiencies and encouraging

direct relationships.

• Producers have access to

credit, markets, resources, and

industry knowledge.


Fair Trade in CanadaFair Trade Campus Week The CFTN and Fairtrade Canada hosted the 2nd Annual Fair Trade Campus Week. More than 30 colleges and universities across Canada hosted awareness events and engagement activities.

Chief Adam TampuriHosted by Fairtrade Canada, Chief Adam Tampuri, Fairtrade Africa board chair, visited communities across the country, where he presented valuable producer perspectives at several meetings and events.

Fairtrade Canada MembershipFairtrade Canada announced revisions to its membership and governance. Organizations supporting fair trade in Canada can now apply to become members and contribute to the direction the organization.

Starbucks on CampusResponding to popular demand, Starbucks announced that all espresso beverages served on Canadian campuses will be 100 percent Fairtrade Certified beginning in the spring of 2015.

New WebsiteFair Trade Vancouver has re-branded its online presence with the launch of its new website: FairTradeVancouver.ca

CampaignMembers of Fair Trade Saskatoon are meeting regularly to launch an upcoming campaign.

Fair Trade Winnipeg 2015Winnipeg launched its official campaign to become a Fair Trade City in 2015. More than 100 representatives from local and provincial governments, non-profit organizations, academic institutions, and businesses from across the province attended the event, which coincided with the publication of a new website: FairTradeWinnipeg.ca

Human Rights MuseumAfter great anticipation, the Canadian Museum for Human Rights opened to the public in September. In support of greater social sustainability, its Era Bistro restaurant has committed to sourcing fair trade products.

Canada

Vancouver

Saskatoon

Winnipeg

Donna Dag speaks at Fair Trade Winnipeg’s campaign launch

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Fairtrade AwardsFairtrade Canada held its 3rd Annual Canadian Fairtrade Awards to celebrate

the work of industry and civil society leaders in promoting awareness of fair trade in Canada.

Fair Trade ShowToronto hosted a successful Fair Trade Show in November, featuring fair trade

products from 25 countries around the world.

World’s Largest Fairtrade Brownie

McGill University baked the world’s largest brownie.

Measuring 10 by 5 metres, it used more than 870 kilograms

of Fairtrade certified sugar, cocoa powder, and organic dark

chocolate, and weighed in at more than 2,000 kilograms!

Fair Trade Town SignThe village of Wakefield erected a new sign to commemorate its

becoming the first Fair Trade Town in Quebec in 2007.

Montreal

Wakefield

Toronto

The World’s Largest Fairtrade Brownie at McGill

Fairtrade Award recipients in Toronto

1 0 | FA I R T R A D E M A G A Z I N E C A N A D A’ S V O I C E F O R S O C I A L S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

growing change

When you buy anything—when you walk into the shop and buy a finger of banana—this is what you build: Here, Fairtrade Premiums have been used for clean drinking water. It is unbelievable that today, in the 21st century, we are able to travel to the moon—we are able to do a whole manner of things with technology—yet some people cannot even get clean drinking water. We walk to the streams and drink the water with our animals. This is not the life we should live as human beings.

M any people might think that Fairtrade Premiums are only for building schools. No. We all know what

malnutrition is. We know what happens when people are not well fed. When people are not well fed, it affects their human resource capacity. They become liabilities to their countries because their governments have to look for resources, to look for medicines, to treat them all the time. If you don’t eat well you certainly won’t be strong and healthy. Here, this community decided to establish farms where farmers can go and take at least a can of milk every other day. Cows were purchased with Premium money to provide milk. Instead of going to the store to buy milk, they go to where there are cows. They go and take it to feed their families, to make their children healthy. They also invested part of their Premiums in poultry so that they can get eggs, weekly. This is a brilliant idea. This farmer has come to collect eggs. In a week, he will take two crates of eggs to feed his family. The issue of nutrition is being addressed—from the grassroots, from the Premiums.

Chief Adam Tampuri is a cashew farmer from Ghana. Currently, he is the board chairman at Fairtrade Africa and a board member at both Fairtrade International and Fairtrade Canada. In September 2014, he spoke to fair trade stakeholders at several events across Canada. The following is a selection of transcribed excerpts, revised and formatted for print, from a slideshow presentation and discussion in Vancouver.

I t’s very important to understand what producers are doing with Fairtrade Premiums, because the choice is not just

about your ability to pay for fair trade products but about the communities where you can see practical projects in the interests of the community. This is a school constructed from Premiums. This is not to say that our government is not making an effort to build schools in our communities. You may all be very much aware that your Canadian government supports African countries, but fair trade is not about the relationship between the Canadian government and my government—or other African governments. It’s about the relationship between farmers and consumers who have chosen a path—a path that has something to do with the heart. You are not buying fair trade products just because you have money. You are buying fair trade products because you want a child to go to school. Many people are very lucky to come from a part of the world where education is such that you just cannot avoid it. For us, we struggle to even get it. The consequences can be seen in the lives we live. We pay dearly.

We Are Also Part of This World

Chief Adam Tampuri speaks in Vancouver

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Whether you are a Muslim, a Christian, an atheist, a chief, a whatever, you are coming to the table to talk about this product. You are not coming to talk about your political affiliations.

W hen I travel across Africa, I don’t go only to inspect Premium projects, I also interact with workers and

farmers in their communities. I am their representative. It’s my responsibility to go to these farmers to tell them, “You workers have no idea what happens in the north. It’s not as if they are so rich that they just go and walk into the shop and buy fair

trade. They have to be spoken to. They have to be educated. They have to understand why they are buying fair trade.” Fair trade is a very, very difficult certification model because you have to appeal to people. You have to spare resources to talk to people. You have to engage with consumers. It’s about managing relationships. It goes beyond having fair trade shops and Fair Trade Towns, like we have in Vancouver. It’s wonderful to think, from where we are across the seas,

some people are thinking about us. They’re thinking not only about our farms, they are thinking about our children, about our opportunities, about our women, about the environment. This is a wonderful thing for us. And these are the stories we tell people when we meet them.

Q: Can you explain what has contributed to the growing number of farms becoming Fairtrade certified?

W hen you advertise a product, you are not only advertising a product, you are also advertising those

behind the product. When you live an exemplary life in your community, it’s natural that others will follow suit. The reason for the increase in the number of Fairtrade certified

PROUD TO BE CANADA’S FAIR TRADE CAMPUS OF THE YEAR

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farms is that those of us who are Fairtrade certified do things differently in our communities. First of all, we are democratic in our practices. We can have men and women sit together to make decisions. You should appreciate the fact that in Africa, because of our culture, and our differences, there are some cultural practices that do not

recognize gender equality. But when others see a co-operative ask women to come and stand and be elected to leadership positions, when they see women become treasurers, when they see women own their own projects within the organization, then they start asking questions. When they go out into the bush, they find we are not spraying our farms the way they do. We do our work and ensure that our children do not have to. Chief Adam Tampuri


Another town, which did not have a school, they came to our community and they saw our school and they asked, “How did you do this?” And we said, “Well, through fair trade.” And they asked, “What is fair trade?” In our communities, these are the simple things people see. They become excited and say, “Well, let us also join you, because we have our own communities.”

Q: Are you saying that as consumers we can empower farmers so they can rise up against the system?

N o, no, no. If you look at it from that angle, it will be a negative

take on accepting fair trade. No. You are supporting a process to build the capacity of producers, not to rise up against anybody, but to make themselves relevant in the system. That’s what it means. You make yourself relevant. You don’t rise up against the system. The systems are about us, but when the systems are not properly administered, when they are not properly managed, they go against us. For example, if we decide that, in our community, we are not going to pollute the water around us, we act together. In conventional farming, people don’t care about all these things. They go and do what they want to do. Nobody checks them. Any system that has no checks and balances has no benefit to the people. There must be checks and balances. And that is why we have accepted the Fairtrade standards. We are open to audits. Come and check us. You want to check my farm? Check my community? See the children? Talk to the women? This is it. When we say we make a decision, we take minutes; they are recorded. We have agendas attached. Whoever was at the meeting was recorded as there, so you cannot come back and say you only made a decision because you are the chief of

a community. It doesn’t work that way with the Fairtrade system. Fairtrade opens avenues for dia log ue. Our communities, however small they are, are made up of different ethnic groups. We also have smaller political bodies. We have religious groups. All of these groups exist in communities. But, you see, when you are Fairtrade certified, you are certified for this product. Whether you are a Muslim, a Christian, an atheist, a chief, a whatever, you are coming to the table to talk about this product. You are not coming to talk about your political affiliations. Fair trade eliminates class distinction. It eliminates possession over another person. That is how society must be built. Society must be flexible, it must be open—but with rules and regulations, so that people can be responsible and do things the right way. You become one another’s people.

I want to thank you all on behalf of my colleague farmers. You are the ones

who give us hope. You are the ones who recognize that we have a future. You are the ones who also believe that we should be treated as human beings. You are the ones who are working very hard to ensure social justice in our communities. You are the ones who work around the clock—you sacrifice your time, energy, resources—to make sure that there is economic empowerment. You are the same people who sit around meetings and share ideas and talk to consumers to ensure that there is adequate protection for our communities. You can imagine how close we are, despite the distance between us. We are so close. When we think about fair trade, we think about our future. And we too can knock our chest and say, “Yes! We are also part of this world.” That is how it is. We are so grateful to you for choosing fair trade. Thank you very much. 2

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growing change

Agroforestry for Resilient CommunitiesBY J U L I E S AGE

growing change

Agroforestry practiced at APROMALPI

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I n 1996, a small group of farmers created the Asociación de Productores de Mangos del Alto Piura (APROMALPI) on

the northern coast of Peru, where, for many years, small-scale farmers have produced a variety of crops for both export and domestic markets, as well as for their own consumption. Collectively, APROMALPI members own 340 hectares of organic certified orchard land, with each member’s plot averaging about two hectares in size. It’s a small oasis where mangos, bananas, and other tropical fruits are grown and exported to Europe and North America. Mangos are their primary export crop, but farmers also grow passion fruit, cocao, and avocados for local domestic markets. As a member of the Fairtrade International system, APROMALPI members have relied on stable prices and additional premiums to support the local community and invest in business development projects such as infrastructure for water and waste management. APROMALPI members also benefit from technical assistance, which has helped farmers increase the density of their mango orchards and increase yields by 18 percent. For example, members have increased the nutrient content of their soil by using the shells of cocoa pods as compost. One of the most distinct aspects of APROMALPI, however, is how they’ve managed to preserve a rich history of agroforestry—assisted in part through the benefits of fair trade. The strategy of diversifying their crops has made farmers more resilient to climatic or economic crises and has allowed APROMALPI to become more competitive among Peruvian mango exporters. In the future, APROMALPI plans to export other crops currently used for personal consumption and domestic markets.

AgroforestryAgroforestry is an intensive land-management strategy that combines agriculture and forestry practices. It integrates the growth and maintenance of both tree and shrub crops to create an interactive microclimate for the benefit of all species within the environment. Agroforestry is practiced by 558 million people across more than one billion hectares of the world’s agricultural land. In Asia, Central America, and South America, it is especially prevalent—accounting for 80 percent of all agriculture. While there is a range of agroforestry practices used around the world, mango farmers of APROMALPI typically integrate forest farming with other crops. For example, coconut trees create a canopy above mango orchards; this fosters special climatic conditions that provide increased moisture, temperature control, and protection from wind.

Diversifying their crops has made

farmers more resilient to climatic or economic crises

and has allowed APROMALPI to become more competitive among

Peruvian mango exporters.

Some may see these practices as reforestation techniques, but they go further: Agroforestry is a means to grow differently—for the benefit of local economies and the environment.

Environmental benefits

Soil erosion and qualityTrees can be planted as shelterbelts to create protective microclimates. This can improve moisture retention and reduce wind speeds, protecting against soil erosion and damage to cultivated crops. Shelterbelt trees can have deep root systems that tap into lower water and minerals sources that cultivated crops can’t access. Nutrients are then cycled back into the cultivated ecosystem when the trees and shrubs shed their leaves. Once decayed and absorbed back into the soil, the leaves release nutrients that support the growth of crops and favourable fruit yields.

Climate changeResearch has shown that trees are extremely useful in sequestering greenhouse gases, making them a valuable resource in confronting climate change. While different plants will accumulate carbon at different rates, slow-growing mango trees, which can live for hundreds of years, can work as effective carbon sinks for long periods of time.

Biodiversity and pest managementAside from the variety of plants grown, integrated forests and crops offer good sources of food and water and are ideal habitats for animals and insects. They provide nesting areas safe from


predators and help preserve natural migration patterns and breeding cycles. Agroecosystems can also support a broader range of microclimates, which in turn influence the diversity of local species. Agroforestry farmers often use “push-pull” techniques for natural pest management. This involves manipulating insects by using natural stimuli to push them away from certain areas and to draw them toward others where they can be contained or disposed of.

Economic benefitsIntegrated resources complement each other. By combining the right tree species with responsive crops and proper maintenance, farmers can often increase yields and profits. The protective capacity of many surrounding crops can also ensure the resiliency of existing assets. New crops can bring new products that can be sold or consumed locally, providing both short- and long-term revenue streams and offering more financial diversity for farmers. Agroforestry methods can better use marginal land and expand the potential scope of production. Natural pest-management and fertilizing can also reduce reliance on costly synthetic inputs.

A different way of seeing food systemsBecause climates, social conditions, and access to resources can vary greatly across the world, agroforestry is not a ready-made model that can simply be applied anywhere. Instead, it is a different way of seeing our food systems. By embracing cultural traditions and sharing local knowledge, fair trade can be a powerful resource in supporting agroforestry projects. These projects create long-term opportunities for increasing food security and sovereignty. 2

Julie Sage manages the fair trade programs at Discovery Organics, an importer

of fresh organic produce in Vancouver.

Agricultural democracy in the interest of small farmers

Agroforestry is often discussed within broader

agricultural concepts such as agroecology, which aims

to increase social and environmental responsibility in

agriculture.

Speaking recently at an event hosted by the

Transnational Institute, Professor Hilal Elver, who is the

United Nations Special Rapporteur on the Right to Food,

criticized the resource-intensive practices of modern

agriculture and called for a transition to “agricultural

democracy” in the interest of small producers.

The event coincided with a symposium hosted by

the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United

Nations, where nearly 70 international food scientists

called for a central strategy in addressing climate change

and community resilience—citing agroecology as “a

well-grounded science, a set of time-tested agronomic

practices and, when embedded in sound socio-political

institutions, the most promising pathway for achieving

sustainable food production.”

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APROMALPI farmers

C F T N .C A | 1 9

*as of November 2014

Four of the eight designated Fair Trade Campuses in Canada have Chartwells as their dining services provider.* Chartwells is proud to continue working with the Canadian Fair Trade Network and our partners to support fair trade initiatives on campuses across Canada. Together, let’s continue to build momentum. Choose, promote and fair trade on your campus.

We fair trade.


feature

Equal ArrangementsLabourers on cut-flower plantations find empowerment through fair trade

BY ER I K JOH NSON

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Keeping tabs on pesticide use

Organophosphate pesticides are a major health concern for greenhouse

workers. By inhibiting cholinesterase enzymes, these pesticides alter

crucial nerve functions in insects and humans alike. Overexposure

can produce symptoms similar to those associated with nerve-gas

poisoning—tearing eyes, irritated nose and throat, blurred vision,

nervousness, muscle weakness, and in extreme cases, respiratory

paralysis. For women, exposure to organophosphates has been linked

to higher rates of lost pregnancies. Wives of sprayers, exposed to

pesticides through their husbands’ work clothes, also report higher

miscarriage rates. Studies show that children from communities

located near flower farms score lower on fine-motor-skill assessments

and other neurobehavioural evaluations. Workers who suffer from

symptoms associated with pesticide poisoning—especially those whose

production is limited by health issues—also risk dismissal.

Fairtrade standards regulate how certified farms use pesticides. To

protect workers, all sprayers must receive proper training and protective

equipment, including clean uniforms. Greenhouses are sprayed at

set, documented intervals. During spraying, greenhouses are closed

to other workers, a quarantine that lasts a minimum of four hours,

depending on the pesticide.

Fairtrade standards also require regular medical exams for all

employees (yearly for all workers; every three months for sprayers) and

appropriate treatment and compensation for workers showing signs of

pesticide poisoning.

In addition to Fairtrade standards, workers have benefited from the

use of integrated pest management. Ponte Tresa in Ecuador, Fairtrade

certified since 2004, uses natural predators to control foliage-devouring,

pesticide-resistant spider mites.

I t is hard to not to appreciate the delicate symmetry of an Ecuadorian

rose. Flower-buying Canadians agree; in 2013, 59 percent of Canada’s 130 million imported roses came from Ecuador. Another 39 percent, more than 50 million, came from Colombia. Roses make a classic romantic gift, but when you consider how workers endure low pay, long hours, dangerous conditions, and f laky contracts, the bouquet you hand out—no matter the occasion—could symbolize much more than your affection.

A history of strained labour relationsThe South American cut-flower industry began making strides in the 1980s and 1990s, when flower producers shifted operations to take advantage of an optimal combination of climate, cheap labour, and free-trade policies created by the United States government in its war on drugs. Today, Colombian flower exports dominate the American market. In the 1980s, to solicit foreign investment, the Colombian government deregulated shift lengths, eliminated overtime pay, and cancelled permanent contracts. These factors, when combined with increased work quotas and a highly competitive marketplace, gave plantation owners the legal backing to dismiss workers who couldn’t meet expectations. Companies also fired those who complained to inspectors, suffered from health issues, or tried to organize labour unions. With no fixed contracts, workers were hesitant to take a stand for their freedom to assemble and right to safe, nondiscriminatory working conditions. When workers did organize, companies locked them out, declared bankruptcy, hired scabs, dismissed them, or set up bogus, company-controlled unions. Instead of bargaining collectively, some companies offered slightly more lucrative contracts


to workers outside of unions. Other c ompa n ie s u se d propa ga nd a t o exaggerate the connection between unions and radical guerrilla operations. The result of these efforts is an ongoing disconnect between plantation owners, unions, and the 111,000 workers in Colombia’s cut-flower industry. In Ecuador, where 120,000 workers are directly or indirectly employed by f lower plantations, past attempts to organize have also been suppressed, with management blacklisting workers. In 2005, 35 workers at Flores de la Montaña in the Cayambe region of Ecuador announced that they had formed a union. All 35 were dismissed. Within two weeks they were protesting at the plantation gates. When the Ministry of Labour recognized their union, the company sought out the workers individua lly and coerced them to accept compensation from the company to end their protests. When asked about minimal union representation in the Ecuadorian c ut-f lower i ndu s t r y, pl a nt at ion owners and company leaders often attribute disinterest on the part of workers. But the suppression tactics employed by plantation owners have likely made workers reluctant to even discuss union membership, citing misinformed concerns over union-induced inefficiencies and corruption. Not surprisingly, only two of Ecuador’s almost 800 flower farms are unionized. For an organization like Fairtrade International, which often works with unions to promote worker empowerment and uphold internationally recognized labour standards, engaging workers in Colombia and Ecuador has been a major challenge. Instead, Fairtrade International has established committees and held training sessions; this allows workers to exercise their freedom to assemble and

Redefining gender roles in rural Africa and South America

Women compose as much as 65 percent of the workforce in Colombia’s cut-flower

industry, where many continue to face sexual harassment and hazardous conditions

due to unsafe pesticide use and long shifts. Some women have reported ruptured

varicose veins, carpal tunnel issues, and kidney problems caused by hours spent

standing, trying to meet unreasonable quotas. Long, physically taxing work days

make it difficult for women to properly care for their children, and nearly impossible

to establish new roles for themselves in society.

Fairtrade certified plantations have helped make positive impacts on gender issues

across the cut-flower industry. In Kenya, one certified farm has created a gender

committee comprised of both men and women. They’ve adopted special training

programs to inform women about workplace discrimination, how to report abuse,

and how to plan a family. Reports show that these committees have helped women

find greater confidence in the workplace and have taught men about the changing

roles of women in their rural society. Also, Fairtrade standards mandate adequate

maternity leave and time for nursing. At Rosas del Monte in Ecuador, workers are

offered microloans as part of the Fairtrade Premium benefit. Many women have used

these loans to improve their homes; pay for school uniforms; or start their own hair,

makeup, and nail salons.

C F T N .C A | 2 3

find additional means to empowerment. As a result, f lower industry workers have discovered confidence and well-b ei n g by at t end i n g Fa ir trade Premium–s p on s or e d t r a i n i n g sessions on business skills, hea lth issues, finances, and worker’s rights and obligations. Through involvement in these sessions and committees, workers h ave b e c ome mor e a s ser t ive a nd more w i l l i n g t o s h a r e idea s a nd concer n s w ith col leag ues a nd supervisors.

Community benefits of fair trade flowersThe popularity of fair trade f lowers in Europe has helped make Kenya the global leader in growing them. In addition to funding training programs and offering microloans, Fairtrade Premiums have helped improve local education opportunities. Premiums from flower farms have financed exams

and initiatives to recognize top students; built toilet facilities; and paid for desks, tables, and workspaces. Finlays, a Fairtrade certified grower in Kenya, has helped address the issue of AIDS by promoting awareness and offering condoms to workers. In Canada, the selection of fair trade flowers continues to expand. Florists Supply, a f loral wholesaler based in Winnipeg, purchases fair trade flowers

f rom E c u a dor a nd Kenya and is active in pursuing new fair trade products from across the world. John Forsyth, who is the vice president of cut-flower operations, explains how fair trade sales have grown with support from supermarkets: “It’s hard for one flower shop to change the world the way a chain store can. In BC, fair trade has received very good support from Thrifty’s, W hole Fo o d s , a nd Choices. We want to get fair trade options into as many retail and mass-

market locations as we can in Western Canada and Northwestern Ontario. It’s a positive thing for everyone.” Consumers who want to choose fair trade f lowers can identify them—and show their love—by the looking for the Fairtrade Mark. 2

Erik Johnson is the associate editor of Fair Trade

Magazine. It’s about time he bought his wife some

(fair trade) roses.

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C F T N .C A | 2 5

feature

Small-scale producersThe general consensus among researchers and international organizations—including the United Nations, the International Coffee Organization, and Fairtrade International—is that between 70 and 90 percent of the world’s coffee supply is grown by small, family farms. While definitions vary, this generally describes farms smaller than two hectares in size and where family-oriented landowners provide the primary means of labour. Growing quality coffee requires high altitudes, between 700 and 1,800 metres above sea level, which means coffee farmers often live in remote, high-alpine villages. Steep grades make vehicle access difficult, requiring farmers to pick their crops by hand. Many coffee farmers represent indigenous cultures that have owned and inhabited their land for hundreds if not thousands of years. This vast collective experience offers intimate knowledge about local products and growing conditions and can be a resource for practical solutions in sustainable farming.

Yet, in the last two decades, limited investment in agriculture and increased competition for land and water resources have damaged the environment and left small farmers vulnerable to poverty. Coffee farmers in particular have been subject to extremely volatile price fluctuations since the dissolution of the International Coffee Association in 1989—reaching a high of $US3.05 per pound in the 1990s, only to bottom out at $US0.41 per pound in 2001. For farmers who rely solely on coffee for their livelihood, this was devastating.

Cash cropsCoffee is typically a cash crop, grown for sale, not for consumption. It’s a means to afford the basics of a healthy livelihood. Outside of fair trade, farmers rely on middlemen, referred to as “coyotes” in Mexico and many Latin-American countries, who travel throughout coffee-growing communities to purchase dried green beans. (Internationally, coffee is traded unroasted.)

Small-Holder Coffee Growers: Earning a Fair Deal

BY BRYCE TA R L I NG

Most Canadians can be forgiven for not recognizing a coffee plant. It’s a simple matter of fact: Coffee doesn’t

grow in Canadian climates. Instead, we rely on international trade to ensure our year-round supply. But this

arrangement leaves us disconnected from the realities of coffee production—and how growers often receive

a raw deal.


Being so far removed from the final point of sale, these

often-isolated farmers have little recourse for negotiating

the terms that determine their livelihoods.

When the price squeeze comes, it comes from above. The coffee supply chain can involve a long slough of agents—processors, exporters, brokers, and shippers in the country of origin, and then importers, distributors, and retailers (grocery stores, restaurants, cafes, etc.) in Canada—all competing for profits. Being so far removed from the final point of sale, these often-isolated farmers have little recourse for negotiating the

terms that determine their livelihoods. Most farmers aren’t even told where their coffee will be consumed.

Coping mechanismsCoffee farming is an arduous pursuit, and substituting one crop for another is not easy. A coffee crop takes three to four years of investment in planting and nurturing before it can achieve profitable yields. The consequences of a price crash with no floor can have significant consequences for farmers. The most basic coping mechanism is to sur vive on less. While many of us have ex per ienced l iv ing on tight budgets—cutting back on restaurant meals or stretching the life of a pair of shoes—for farmers and their families, a limited budget can mean cinching belts to the point of malnourishment. Some farmers restructure f a r m i n g p r a c t i c e s , a process that can take many different forms. Some resort to subsistence farming—growing corn, beans, squash, and other edible or medicinal plants. But growing a full range of nutritional crops can

be difficult for a farmer in any country. Other farmers plant alternative cash crops, but this requires time and labour, and success depends on available markets. Still others abandon their coffee fields when they determine that the time and cost

Coyotes get a bad rap in fair trade parlance, where they are portrayed as greedy opportunists eager to exploit vulnerable farmers in the interest of profit. Far from being corporate men in suits, however, coyotes are often locals who provide an essential service to their community—and may be coffee farmers themselves. For farmers with little access to transportation, coyotes connect their product with distant wa rehouses in urba n centres. In Mexico, coyotes r e s e m b l e a s o r t o f travelling marketplace, w h e r e t h e y p r o v i d e f a r m e r s w i t h b a s i c essentials such as food and other household items that would be otherwise u nava i lable. W hen a coyote arrives at a village, he (coyotes are usually men) meets local farmers and directly trades food and other items for their green coffee beans. Despite this important role, coyotes often have poor relationships with f a r m e r s w h o r a r e l y receive enough to sustain their livelihoods. If a farmer needs to earn seventy cents per pound to break even, a coyote rarely pays more—even when prices are high. W hen prices are low, farmers earn much less. One contributing issue is a lack of information about the market; in many cases, middlemen know little about current ma rket prices and pay farmers based on what they get from warehouses. And, while a middleman may have more opportunity to stockpile product during price slumps (to sell when prices rise) they are unlikely to earn large profits. In the big picture, coyotes face similar disadvantages as farmers.

C F T N .C A | 2 7

to maintain and harvest the crop aren’t worth the effort—forfeiting any potential profits. Once coffee plants are overrun with vegetation they lose their ability to yield cherries. Another option for farmers is moving to urban centres or even to other countries that can offer more opportunities to make a living. But a mass exodus of breadwinners from communities with limited employment options can lead to labour shortages, increasing the cost of hired labour for farmers who are already receiving lower prices. And among those who leave, many build new lives and never return. It’s also important to consider that it costs money to migrate, meaning the most disadvantaged lack the resources to relocate and find opportunities elsewhere.

Strength in numbersFair trade arrangements can have significant benefits for farmers and their surrounding communities. For farmers, these benefits include higher prices and the payment of premiums that can be used for business development and other community projects. Extra money earned from fair trade can also support the local economy, as money earned is redistributed throughout the community through paid wages and the purchase of goods. The timing of

payments can also have huge benefits for producers, as those who belong to a co-operative (as is the arrangement required for Fairtrade certification) will often receive pre- and post-harvest credits to support them throughout the year. Fair trade co-operative members are guaranteed a safe and reliable place to sell coffee, a place that can also provide resources about how to improve quality and production. Farmers learn about improvements such as vegetative live barriers to prevent erosion. They also learn how to implement sustainable shade-growing and organic farming practices to preserve biodiversity and increase productivity, techniques that help avoid deforestation for the expansion of farmland. Quality and price will always be important to consumers and businesses. But as our world evolves and our communities grow and connect, it is difficult to ignore the fact that our products are grown and produced by people in other parts of the world, people who face an array of challenges in providing for themselves and their families. Fair trade gives coffee growers a chance to overcome some of these challenges, and buying fair trade coffee allows Canadians to share in these gains. 2

Bryce Tarling is the director of communications for the Canadian Fair Trade

Network and the managing editor of Fair Trade Magazine.


recipe

T ake a tally of the most readily ava i lable Fa ir trade cer tif ied

ingredients—chocolate, cocoa, sugar, coconut, cinnamon, nuts (the list goes on)—and you’ve got the foundation for hundreds of desserts. And while there are many Fairtrade certified ingredients that aren’t cakery staples (think avocado), it can be hard to find a fair trade–heavy dish that doesn’t lead to a toothache. Enter mole: the sauce that eats like a dessert. But not really. Because mole has something that most desserts don’t have: a spicy kick in the mouth. While traditional mole has been known to use anywhere from 30 to even 100 ingredients, this version of mole takes a few short cuts, relying on on ly 16 key i n g red ient s . 2

Amy Wood is a freelance writer whose Spanish

vocabulary consists mostly of menu items.

In separate bowls, soak chilies in 1 cup

(250 mL) and raisins in 1/4 cup (60 mL) boiling

water to rehydrate.

In a medium saucepan, heat coconut oil over

medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic and

cook, stirring constantly until onions begin to

brown, about 6 minutes. Add spices and stir

for 30 seconds. Add tomatoes to deglaze pan;

heat tomatoes through. Add cocoa powder

and almond butter and stir to combine.

Add mole mixture to blender along with

tortilla strips, chili peppers and 1/4 cup of their

soaking liquid, and raisins and their soaking

liquids. Blend until smooth. Return back to

saucepan; add stock and season with salt.

Bring to a low boil and immediately reduce to

a simmer. With the lid on, simmer for

20 minutes while sauce thickens and flavours

marry.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400 F.

In large bowl, toss yams and garlic cloves

with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Spread onto a parchment-lined cookie sheet

and roast for 20 minutes. Remove from oven

and turn; return back to oven and bake until

yams are fork-tender, about 25 minutes.

Reduce heat to 350 F.

In large bowl, mash roasted yam and garlic

together—a few chunks are okay. Set aside.

In two 9 × 13 inch pans, cover the bottoms

with 1/2 cup (125 mL) each of mole sauce.

Heat cast-iron pan over medium-high heat.

One at a time, warm corn tortillas on each

side until brown spots appear. Fill each with

one-twelfth of the yam mixture and roll. Place

seam-side down into pan, six to a pan.

Cover enchiladas with another 1 cup

(250 mL) each mole sauce. Place in oven and

bake for 25 minutes or until sauce is bubbling.

Remove from oven.

Serve two enchiladas per person and let

them add more mole sauce plus their choice of

toppings.

Serves 6.

Yam Enchiladas with Easy Mole SauceBY A M Y WOOD

for the mole 3 dried ancho chilies, ends removed

and de-seeded

1/4 cup (60 mL) raisins

1 knob Fairtrade certified coconut oil

2 medium onions, roughly chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

3/4 tsp (4 mL) Fairtrade certified

cinnamon

1/4 tsp (1 mL) each oregano, cumin,

anise

1/4 tsp (1 mL) Fairtrade certified

cloves, ground

1 – 14 oz (400 mL) can diced tomatoes

3 Tbsp (45 mL) Fairtrade certified

cocoa powder

1/4 cup (60 mL) Fairtrade certified

almond butter

1 corn tortilla, torn into strips

1 cup (250 mL) vegetable stock

Salt to taste

for the enchiladas

4 large yams, diced

1 head garlic, cloves peeled

3 Tbsp (45 mL) Fairtrade certified

extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and Fairtrade certified pepper to

taste

12 corn tortillas

toppings

Feta cheese

Jalapenos

Cilantro

Fairtrade certified avocado

Pumpkin seeds

Salsa

C F T N .C A | 2 9

Ancho chilies can

be tricky to find, but

they are essential to

developing the rich,

smoky flavour unique

to mole sauce. Check

your local ethnic

grocers or ethnic food

aisles. Still no luck?

Sub ancho chilies for

one chipotle pepper

in adobo sauce—

be careful though,

chipotle peppers are

hot, hot, hot!

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book review

Buying Into Fair Trade: Culture, Morality, and Consumption

By Keith R. BrownNew York University Press, 2013188 pages, $21.00 • ISBN: 978-0814725375

R E V I E W ED BY BRYCE TA R L I NG

K eith R. Brown belongs to a small group of Westerners who have spent time living and working with producers

in developing countries. Buying Into Fair Trade: Culture, Morality, and Consumption opens with a look back on his experience in Nicaragua. Along with 14 other travellers, he picked coffee, pulled carrots from the ground, and ate oranges from trees—while monkeys howled at them from surrounding forests. Working with local families and playing with their children had a profound effect on Brown, who “had never before seen levels of poverty like those in both the towns and the countryside of Nicaragua.” It’s a brief episode, but the experience stands as a key impetus for Brown’s research into how a generation of ethical consumers construct and imbue meaning into fair trade products. The book is based on two years spent visiting fair trade handicraft and coffee shops and volunteering at Ten Thousand Villages in Philadelphia—where he conducted

more than 100 interviews with advocates, consumers, and business personalities. Buying Into Fair Trade is an academic examination of the tensions and contradictions that threaten to confound proponents for change within what has become a prominent movement for social sustainability. To illustrate the contradiction that can occur between ethical status and actual producer benefits, Brown looks to a psychological study that asked Americans to identify who they ranked as the most admirable: Mother Teresa, Bill Gates, or Norman Borlaug. While Teresa likely carries the most sanctity for many Westerners, Gates’s philanthropic work and Borlaug’s research have had broader impacts. In fact, Borlaug, far from a household name, has been credited with saving more lives than anyone else in history. Brown’s point: moral reputation doesn’t necessarily translate into economic benefits for producers. As a note for comparison, in 2006, Starbucks—often considered an upscale, forward-thinking company committed to sustainability—sold approximately 5 to 8 percent of its coffee with fair trade certification; whereas, Dunkin’ Donuts, not typically a recipient of praise for ethical procurement, has exclusively used fair trade certified espresso beans since 2004. Businesses aren’t the only ones whose practices may conflict with a public image. In segmenting his consumer data, Brown identifies that only a very small proportion of consumers faithfully align their purchasing with their social convictions. The majority of consumers, when giving reasons for purchasing an ethical product, will shy away from speaking about social issues (for fear of being too “preachy”)—instead discussing other aspects such as aesthetics, quality, and price. Consumers also use ethical purchasing to justify less-altruistic purchases. One interviewee describes how “going to Walmart allows me to have the money to then spend at Whole Foods.” Buying Into Fair Trade will challenge readers with an ethical bent to review their own buying habits. Through transcribed interviews and in-depth, anthropological analyses, Brown leads us to reflect on our own authenticity and encourages us to assess how we navigate the inevitable contradictions that threaten to sway our own moral compasses. On a larger scale, Brown provides an analytical lens to identify and evaluate commitment to social sustainability for businesses and consumers—and describes how social meaning helps build social movements. 2

Bryce Tarling is the director of communications of CFTN and the managing editor

of Fair Trade Magazine. He was once profoundly affected by an experience living

and working with farmers in Mexico.

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Documents

Fair Trade Magazine - Winter / Spring 2015