Fabric+&+Apparel+Performance+Testing+Protocol

Liz Claiborne, Inc. Updated: Nov 2011

FABRIC AND APPAREL PERFORMANCE TESTING

PROTOCOL

Liz Claiborne, Inc. 2

GUIDELINES FOR FABRIC AND APPAREL TESTING.............................3

1. ADULTS------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3

2. CHILDREN-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5

FABRIC TESTING AND PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS..................7

1. WOVEN FABRIC------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 7

2. KNIT FABRIC---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9

3. FUNCTIONAL FINISHED FABRICS AND GARMENTS-------------------------------- 11

GARMENT TESTING AND PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS ...........12

1. WOVEN GARMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12

2. KNITWEAR CUT-SEW GARMENTS AND SWEATERS-------------------------------- 14

3. LEATHER GARMENTS-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16

4. INTIMATE-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17

5. DOWN ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 20


Guidelines for Fabric and Apparel Testing

1. ADULTS

APPAREL TESTS TEXTILES TRIMS / ACCESSORIES

S = Standard Performance Tests F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric

Form

NATURAL & REGENERATED

FIBERS

SYNTHETIC & BLEND FIBERS

LEATHER METALS PVC PLASTICS

LEATHER, COATED LEATHER

LININGS

FIBER CONTENT LABELING

1) Fiber Content F Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List

1) Blended Fibers 2) Single Fiber

a) Specialty Wool Fibers such as

Cashmere, Mohair, Camel, Angora, etc.

b) Graded Wool, Merino Wool, Lamb’s Wool

c) Linen 3) Fur, Faux Fur 4) Linings used for Warmth 5) Upon request

CARE LABELING

2) Dimensional Stability to Laundering S S S

3) Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning S S S

(Leather Clean) S

4) Appearance after Laundering S S S

5) Appearance after Dry Cleaning S S S (Leather Clean) S

6) Colorfastness to LaunderingF S S S

7) Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning F S S S (Leather Clean) S

8) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine BleachF (For USA Only) S S

Trims are Tested same as Garments Trims may require additional testing, refer

to Trim Section

S

9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knits) Conditional List Conditional List

Single Knits such as Jersey, French Terry, Pique, etc. using Single Yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.), Loose and Open Structured Fabrics

Conditional List

FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE

10) Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)F Conditional List Conditional List

1) Plain Surface Fabrics Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2 (100 gm/m2, 23 momme)

Conditional List

2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface

Exemptions - Fabrics made Entirely or in Combinations of Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers

For additional information, refer to "Flammability Testing" in this Section of the Manual

PERFORMANCE ASSURANCE

11) Colorfastness to Crocking (Medium & Dark Colors)F

S S S S



S = Standard Performance Tests F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric

Form


FIBERS

SYNTHETIC & BLEND FIBERS



LININGS

12) Colorfastness to WaterF Conditional List Conditional List

Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles

Conditional List

13) Colorfastness to LightF Conditional List Conditional List

Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / Prints, Bright Colors, Golf and Tennis Apparel, Leather

Conditional List

14) Colorfastness to PerspirationF Conditional List Silk, Golf and Tennis Apparel

15) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water Swimwear

Conditional List Conditional List

16) Colorfastness to Sea Water Swimwear Conditional List Conditional List

17) pH F

In White Color Fabric or For China Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List

18) Tensile Strength (Woven)F S S S 19) Seam Slippage (Woven)F S S S 20) Tearing Strength (Woven)F S S S 21) Seam Breaking Strength (Woven) Conditional List Conditional List

Seams determined to be with Weak Sewing Threads or Low Stitch Density

Conditional List

22) Abrasion Resistance (Woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Plain Fabric

Conditional List

23) Pilling ResistanceF Conditional List Conditional List

Raised Fiber Surfaces (Sueded, Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made of Wool, Acrylic, Polyester/Cotton or Rayon Blends

Conditional List

24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane

Conditional List

25) Bursting Strength (Knits)F Conditional List Conditional List

Weak Knits, Very Light or Open Knits, Fabrics Treated with Resin

Conditional List

26) Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in StorageF Conditional List Conditional List Conditional

List Contrast Colors / Color Block

27) Colorfastness to Ozone (woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Denim or White

28) Pile RetentionF Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velvet,

Chenille, etc.

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional

List

29) Bowing and SkewingF Conditional ListConditional List Woven Fabric - Twill Bottom, Denim

Bottom, Yarn Dyed Plaid Check/Stripe 30) Fabric WeightF S S

Restricted Substances Tests Refer to Section in the Manual on Restricted Substances Protocol for Apparel... ADULT


Guidelines for Fabric and Apparel Testing 2. CHILDREN


S = Standard Performance Tests F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric Form


FIBERS

SYNTHETIC & BLENDED

FIBERS



LININGS

FIBER CONTENT LABELING

1) Fiber Content F Conditional List Conditional List

3) Blended Fibers 4) Single Fiber

a) Specialty Wool Fibers such

as Cashmere, Mohair, Camel, Angora, etc.

b) Graded Wool, Merino Wool, Lamb’s Wool

c) Linen 3) Fur, Faux Fur 4) Linings used for Warmth 5) Upon request

Conditional List

CARE LABELING

2) Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage) to Laundering S S S

3) Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage) to Dry Cleaning S S S

(Leather Clean) S

4) Appearance after Laundering S S S

5) Appearance after Dry Cleaning S S S (Leather Clean) S

6) Colorfastness to LaunderingF S S S

7) Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning F S S S (Leather Clean) S

8) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine BleachF (For USA Only) S S

Trims are Tested same as Garments Trims may require additional testing, refer

to Trim Section

S

9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knits) Conditional List Conditional List Conditional

List

Single Knits such as Jersey, French Terry, Pique, etc. using Single yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.), Loose and Open Structured Fabrics

FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE

10) Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)F Conditional List Conditional

List

1) Plain Surface Fabrics Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2 (100 gm/m2, 23 momme)

Conditional List

2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface

Exemptions- Fabrics made Entirely or in Combination of Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers

For additional Information, refer to "Flammability" in this section

PERFORMANCE ASSURANCE

11) Colorfastness to WaterF

Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

12) Colorfastness to CrockingF S S S S 13) Colorfastness to PerspirationF S S S



S = Standard Performance Tests F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric Form


FIBERS

SYNTHETIC & BLENDED

FIBERS



LININGS

14) Colorfastness to LightF Conditional List

Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / Prints, Bright Colors, Leather

Conditional List

Conditional List

15) Colorfastness to Saliva (Under 36 months) S S S

16) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water Swimwear

Conditional List Conditional List

17) Colorfastness to Sea Water Swimwear Conditional List Conditional

List

18) Tensile Strength (Woven)F S S S 19) Seam Slippage (Woven)F S S S 20) Tearing Strength (Woven)F S S S

21) Seam Breaking Strength Conditional List Conditional List

Seams determined to be with Weak Sewing Thread or Low Stitch Density

Conditional List

22) Abrasion Resistance (Woven)F

Plain Fabric Conditional List Conditional

List

Conditional List

23) Pilling ResistanceF

Raised Fiber Surfaces (Sueded, Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made from Wool, Acrylic, Polyester / Cotton or Rayon Blends

Conditional List

Conditional List

Conditional List

24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F Conditional List Conditional List

Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane 25) Bursting Strength (Knits)F Conditional List

Weak Knits, Very Light or Open Knits, Fabrics Treated with Resin

Conditional List

Conditional List

26) Pile RetentionF Conditional List

Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velour, Chenille, etc.

Conditional List

Conditional List

27) pH S S S

28) Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in StorgageF Conditional List Conditional

List Contrast Colors / Color Block

Conditional List

29) Colorfastness to Ozone (Woven)F Conditional List

Denim or White

Conditional List

30) Bowing and SkewingF Conditional List Conditional List

Woven Fabric - Twill Bottom, Denim Bottom, Yarn Dyed Plaid Check/Stripe

31) Fabric WeightF S S

Child Product Safety Tests and Requirements Refer to Testing Protocol for Children's Apparel Safety in this Section

Restricted Substances Tests Refer to Section in the Manual on Restricted Substances Protocol on Apparel… CHILDREN


Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications 1. WOVEN FABRIC

Characteristic Test Method End Use Requirements

No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends

Fiber Content AATCC 20 / 20A All For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance.

Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 All +/- 3.0% Tolerance from Standard Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3775 All +/- 5% Tolerance from Standard Dimensional Stability to Laundering

3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print

AATCC 135 (modified) Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes

Washable Fabrics

Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length: -5%, Width: -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics No Growth

Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One Time Only Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

AATCC 158 Dry Cleanable Fabrics

Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length: -5%, Width: -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics No Growth

Bowing: 1" Maximum. Bowing and Skewing ASTM D 3882 All

Skewing: 3% of Fabric Width or 1.5” Maximum.

Flammability 16 CFR Parts 1610 All Non-Exempt Fabrics Class 1 ONLY

Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512, 30 minutes As requested 3.0 Minimum

Pile Retention ASTM D 4685 (Face 300 cycles / Back 100 Cycles)

Pile Fabrics 3.5 Minimum, Face and Back

Plain Fabrics up to 7.5 oz/yd2

No rupture to 10,000 cycles

Abrasion Resistance ASTM D 4966

Plain Fabrics over 7.5 oz/yd2

No rupture to 15,000 cycles

Abrasion Flex (Optional) ASTM D 3885

Linen Fabrics, Stiff Fabric (e.g. densely woven or chemical finished stiffening with very little drape)

No Rupture or Damage, 1,000 Cycles Minimum

Abrasion Flat (Frosting) (Optional) AATCC 119 Durable press, Top stitch Color Change: 3.0 or better, 1200 Cycles

Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets

50 Lbs, Minimum

Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining

25 Lbs, Minimum

Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 – Grab Method

Intimate < or equal 3 oz/yd2: min 25lbs; >3 oz/yd2: min 50lbs

Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets, All Plus Size Styles

2.5 Lbs Minimum

Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles

1.5 Lbs Minimum

Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424

Intimate < 3 oz/yd2: min 1.5lbs; 3~6oz/yd2: min 2.0lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 2.5lbs

Seam Slippage ASTM D 434 Shorts, Pants, 25 Lbs Minimum


Characteristic Test Method End Use Requirements Jeans, Jackets, All Plus Size Styles

1/4" Seam Opening / Separation

Skirt, Dress, Blouse, Shirt, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles

15 Lbs Minimum 1/4" Seam Opening / Separation

Intimate < 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs

>6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs ¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation

All, Except Silk and Lining

25 Lbs Minimum

Silk or Lining 15 Lbs Minimum

Seam Breaking Strength ASTMD D 1683 Intimate < 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs

>6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs Elongation: 15 %, minimum

All Bottom Weight Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 4%, maximum, 30 minutes

Elongation: 10%, minimum

Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 3107 (4.0 Lbs)All Top Weight Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 6%, maximum, 30 minutes

All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash

AATCC 61, 2A Refer to Liz# 3 COLOR BLOCK

refer to Liz#4

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) All Color Change: 4.0 or better


Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4


Dry: 4.0 or better

All, except Below Wet: 3.0 or better

Dry: 4.0 or better

Dark Shades (Black, Red, Navy) Wet: 2.5 or better

Indigos Dry: 3.0 or better; Wet: 2.0 or better

Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8

Pigments Dry: 3.5 or better; Wet: 2.5 or better


Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4



Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4


Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16, 20 AFU 5 AFU

All, Except Silk Silk Color Change: 4.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163

Contrast Colors, Color Block refer to Liz#4


pH Value AATCC 81 All 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)

Colorfastness to Ozone AATCC 109 Denim or White 3.5 or better @ 2 cycles

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC162 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better

Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Sea Water AATCC106 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children


Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications 2. KNIT FABRIC

Characteristic Test Method Applicable For Requirements No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends

Fiber Content AATCC 20 / 20A All For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance.

Fabrics +/- 3% Tolerance from standard Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 Stretch Fabrics +/- 5% Tolerance from standard Fabric Count (Wales & Courses) ASTM D 3887 All +/- 5% Tolerance from standard Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print

AATCC 135 Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes

Washable Fabrics

Maximum, Length : -7%, Width: -7%, if the garment shrinkage is Length: -5%, Width: -5% or less All Synthetic or Synthetic Rich Fabrics- Maximum: Length: -5 %, Width: -5% or less No Growth

Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One Time Only Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

AATCC 158 Dry Cleanable Fabrics No Growth

Before Wash: 7% Maximum Fabric Distortion; 3% Maximum for Stripes or Horizontal Stitches Resistance to Torque (Spirality) Refer to Liz#1 Single Knits and

Loose Knits Seam Torque: 5% Maximum

Flammability 16 CFR Parts 1610 Non-Exempt Fabrics Class 1 ONLY

ASTM D 3512, 30 Minutes No Glue on Edges; Sew edges if needed

All 4.0 Minimum

Pilling Resistance

ISO 12945-1, 4 hours Fabrics cannot undergone ASTM D3512

3-4 Minimum

Burst Strength ASTM D 3786 All

> or = 150 gm/m2: 55 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum < 150 gm/m2: 45 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum Sheer Knits (Lace, Mesh, etc.): 30 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum

Pile Retention ASTM D 4685 Pile Fabrics 3.5 Minimum

Snagging Resistance ASTM D 5362

Sweater, Fabric with Filament Yarns weighing under 140 gm/m2, loose structures

3.5 Minimum


Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash

AATCC 61, 2A Refer to Liz# 3 COLOR BLOCK

Refer to Liz#4


Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) All Color Change: 4.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better


Characteristic Test Method Applicable For Requirements COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4

Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Dry: 4.0 or better All, Except below Wet: 3.0 or better Dry: 4.0 or better Dark Colors (Black,

Red, Navy) Wet: 2.5 or better Dry: 3.5 or better Pigments Wet: 2.5 or better


Indigos Dry: 3.5 or better Wet: 2.0 or better


Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4



All, Except Silk Silk Color Change: 4.0 or better


Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4


Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163 Contrast Colors / Color Block Refer to Liz#4


Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC162 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Sea Water AATCC106 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

pH Value AATCC 81 All 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)



Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications 3. FUNCTIONAL FINISHED FABRICS AND GARMENTS

Functional Finish Test Method Requirements Care Free, Wrinkle Resist Fabric & Seam Smoothness AATCC143 3.5 Minimum per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes Fabric Crease Retention AATCC 88C 3.5 Minimum per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes Non-Iron AATCC 124 4.0 Minimum Per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes Original: 100 Rating

Water Repellency- Spray Test AATCC 22 After 3x Washes: 70 Rating Minimum

Water Resistance - Rain Test AATCC 35 1 gram Maximum on original and after 3 x washes

Stain Repellency Treated Fabrics Original 20 x Washes

Water Repellency AATCC 22 100 70 Minimum Oil Repellency AATCC 118 6* 4 Minimum

Water / Alcohol Repellency Drop Test DuPont Method (AATCC 193)

6* *Tolerance 1

4 Minimum

1.0 second or Less

Wicking AATCC 79

"Ciba" Method/ Refer to Liz# 2 5 cm after 10 minutes Minimum for woven 10 cm after 30 minutes Minimum for knits

Original: 0% Bacterial Growth

AATCC 147 (Leaching Type Agent) 20 Washes: 0% Bacterial Growth

AATCC 100 (Non-Leaching Type Agent) 99.9% Reduction, Minimum

Original: 99.9% Reduction, Minimum

Antimicrobial

ASTM E 2149 (Non-Leaching Type Agent) 20 Washes: 80% Reduction, Minimum

Ultraviolet (UV) Protection AATCC 183

40 or above UPF Rating Non-Mesh Fabrics 250 gm/m2 or above may be exempted



Garment Testing and Performance Specifications 1. WOVEN GARMENTS

Test Description Test Method Requirements Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing

Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print


Maximum, Length= - 3%, Width= -3% Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5% for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5% for four-way Stretch fabrics No Distortion Between Components No Growth

Appearance after Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print

Visual Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes

Acceptable Appearance

Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

AATCC 158

Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -3% Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics No Distortion Between Components No Growth

Appearance after Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content

Visual Acceptable Appearance

Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing

No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends.

Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, etc Other than Tested Fabric)

AATCC 20 / 20A For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance.

Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims are in Garment) 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY

25 Lbs Minimum (Pants, Jeans, Short, Jackets, All Women Styles)

15 Lbs Minimum (Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Silk, Lining)

Seam Slippage (If additional trims, novelty seams, bias cutting, etc.) ASTM D 434

¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation

Seam Torque (Spirality) (Based on Style) AATCC 179 5% Maximum

Additional Tests for Garments Without Fabric Testing Fabric Weight (oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from standard. Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3887 +/- 5% Tolerance from standard. Pilling Resistance ASM D 3512, 30 minutes 3.0 Minimum

Pile Retention ASTM D 4685 Face- 300 Cycles

Back- 100 Cycles 3.5 Minimum, Face and Back

ASTM D 4966

Abrasion Resistance 10,000 Cycles 15,000 Cycles

No Rupture, Fabrics weighing up to 7.5 oz/yd2 No Rupture, Fabrics weighing over 7.5 oz/yd2

Abrasion Flex ASTM D 3885 No Rupture or Damage, 1,000 Cycles Minimum. Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets: 50 bs Minimum

Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining: 25 Lbs Minimum

Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets, All Plus Size Styles: 2.5 Lbs Minimum

Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424

Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles:


Test Description Test Method Requirements 1.5 Lbs Minimum

25 Lbs Minimum (All, except Silk and Lining) Seam Breaking Strength ASTM D 1683

15 Lbs Minimum, Silk or Lining All Bottom Weight Stretch Goods: Elongation: 15% Minimum Net Growth: 4% Maximum, 30 minutes All Top Weight Stretch Goods: Elongation: 10% Minimum

Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 3107 (4.0 Lbs)

Net Growth: 6% Maximum, 30 minutes Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better


AATCC 61, 2A Refer to Liz# 3

For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better

Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5

Pigment: Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5


Indigos: Dry 3.0 / Wet 2.0


Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4



Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4



4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk

Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163 Staining: 4.0 or better.

pH Value AATCC 81 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)



Garment Testing and Performance Specifications 2. KNITWEAR CUT-SEW GARMENTS AND SWEATERS


Maximum, Length: - 5%, Width: -5%



No Distortion Between Components; No Growth


Visual Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes

Acceptable Appearance

Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3%


AATCC 158 No Distortion Between Components; No Growth



Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing

No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/-3% Tolerance for Blends

Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, Other than Tested Fabric) AATCC 20 / 20A

For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance.


Additional Tests for Garments without Fabric Testing

Cut-Sew - Fabric Weight (gm/m2 or oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from Standard.

Sweater Weight Sweater Weighing Scale, Lbs/Dozen +/- 3% Lbs from standard

Stitch Count (Wales x Courses) ASTM D 3887 + / - 5% from standard Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 55 PSI Minimum. Before Wash: 7% Maximum Fabric Distortion Resistance to Torque (Spirality) Refer to Liz# 1

Seam Torque: 5% Maximum

Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 30 Minutes, No Glue on Edges 4.0 Minimum

Snagging Resistance ASTM D 5362 3.5 Minimum, Sweater or Fabrics with Filament Yarns Weighing under 140 gm/m2 or Loose structures Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better


AATCC 61, 2A/ Refer to Liz#3 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining:

4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

Colorfastness to Non-chlorine bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0 or better; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5 or better Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8 Pigment/Indigo: Dry 3.5/ Wet 2.5 (pigment), 2.0 (Indigo)


Test Description Test Method Requirements Color Change: 4.0 or better

Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining:



Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining:


AATCC 16, 20 AFU 4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk Colorfastness to Light 5 AFU 4.0 Minimum, Silk

Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163 Staining: 4.0 or better

pH Value AATCC 81 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)



Garment Testing and Performance Specifications 3. LEATHER GARMENTS

Test Description Test Method Requirements Mandatory Garment Tests

Dimensional Stability to Cleaning Leather Cleaning Method

Maximum, Length: -2%, Width -2% No Distortion Between Components

Appearance after Dry Cleaning Visual Acceptable Appearance

Dimensional Stability (for Washable Leathers) Per Care Instructions

Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% No Distortion Between Components

Appearance after Washing Visual & Hand-Feel Acceptable. Hand-feel and appearance must compare favorable to before hand wash

Additional Tests When Applicable Color Change: 3.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Cleaning Leather Cleaning Method For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

Dry 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 116 Wet: 2.0 or better


Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)


4.0 or better, All, Except Suedes 4.0 or better, Suedes

Tensile Strength ASTM D 2208 25 Lbs Minimum

Seam Strength ASTM D 1683 20 Lbs Minimum

Flammability 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY

pH Value ISO4045 -1 4.0 – 7.5 Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children


Garment Testing and Performance Specifications 4. INTIMATE


Woven: Maximum, Length= - 3%, Width= -3% Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5% for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5% for four-way Stretch fabrics No Distortion Between Components No Growth * Must include the wire channel in measurements for Wired Bras


AATCC 150

Knit: Maximum, Length: - 5%, Width: -5% No Distortion Between Components; No Growth * Must include the wire channel in measurements for Wired Bras




AATCC 158

Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -3% Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics No Distortion Between Components No Growth * Must include the wire channel in measurements for Wired Bras



Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends.

Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, etc Other than Tested Fabric)

AATCC 20 / 20A No Tolerance for Single Fiber For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual findings even the results are within 3% tolerance.


< 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs

Seam Slippage (If additional trims, novelty seams, bias cutting, etc.) (Woven)

ASTM D 434 ¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation

Seam Torque (Spirality) (Based on Style) AATCC 179 5% Maximum

Additional Tests for Garments Without Fabric Testing Fabric Weight (oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from standard. Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3887 +/- 5% Tolerance from standard. Tensile Strength (Woven) ASTM D 5034 < or equal 3 oz/yd2: min 25lbs

>3 oz/yd2: min 50lbs

Tearing Strength (Woven) ASTM D 1424 < 3 oz/yd2: min 1.5lbs 3~6oz/yd2: min 2.0lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 2.5 lbs

Seam Breaking Strength (Woven) ASTM D 1683 < 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs


Test Description Test Method Requirements 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs

Bursting Strength (Knit) ASTM D 3786 55 PSI Minimum.

Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 30 Minutes, No Glue on Edges

Woven: 3.0 Minimum Knit: 4.0 Minimum

All Bottom Weight Stretch Goods Elongation: 15% Minimum Net Growth: 4% Maximum, 30 minutes All Top Weight Stretch Goods: Elongation: 10% Minimum

Woven - ASTM D 3107

Net Growth: 6% Maximum, 30 minutes Stretch and Recovery

Knit - ASTM D 4964 Modulus: +/- 15 Recovery: 85% Elongation: +/- 10%

Seam Stretchability (Knit Seams) ASTM D1683 mod 7lbs min or 35% elongation


Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ / Glitter Print /Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash

AATCC 61, 2A/ Refer to Liz# 3


Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better

Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)

General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5

Pigment: Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5


Indigos: Dry 3.0 / Wet 2.0


Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4



Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15



4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk

pH Value AATCC 81

5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)

Additional Tests for Bras Only

Bra Band Elongation Refer to Liz#6 1&2 Hook and Eye closure: 2.4 min & 1.5 max 3&4 Hook and Eye closure: 3.4 min & 2.5 max

Bra Seam Strength - Side

- Cup - Front

ASTM D1683 mod 15lbs


Test Description Test Method Requirements Joining Strength - Center Front Joining (Cup to Cup) - Strap Joining (Strap to Cup)

ASTM D1683 mod 15lbs

Attachment Strength - Strap

Clear Elastic: 20lbs Woven/ Knit Elastic: 25lbs

- Embellishment ASTM D1683 mod

17 lbs/10 secs

Bra Closure Strength (Hook and Eye) ASTM D1683 mod 1 Hook Bras: 25 lbs 2 – 3 Hook Bras: 35 lbs

Additional Tests for Padded (Water/ Gel Pad) Bras Only Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (for Bra Pad through garment only) AATCC 23 (1 cycle) Color Change: 4.0 or better

Resistance Compression (burst strength)

Standard Measure Use Instron Compression Mode – with Compression Jaws

100 psi minimum

Content/ Material ID FTIR analysis Report Actual Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children


5. DOWN

Test Test Method Requirements Content Labeling

Composition ASTM D4524

As Claimed Must be 100% down to label as 100% Down, All Down, Pure Down Must be minimum 75% down to label as unqualified “Down” +/- 2 to 5% Tolerance for unavoidable variations

Species

Goose or Duck Microscopic As claimed. Must be 90% of the plumage to label the specie

Cleanliness Oxygen Number IDFB Part 7 < 10

Turbidity IDFB Part 11- A < 10 NTU

Penetration Penetration of Resistance of Cloth

Federal Standard 191A, Method 5530 Minimum Penetration (1 or 2)

Certification

Certification and Documentation

US Wildlife and Endangered Species (Refer to Manual under Customs)

Goose, Duck, etc. originated from Asia and China require Health Certificate and Fumigation Certificate due to Avian Influenza. The health certificate should consists species common name; scientific name; country of origin and farm�raised/taken from wild. If not from Asia and China, vendor has to submit Declaration from material supplier to state the feathers were treated and sourced from origin and are not prohibited or endangered.

Apparel with Down

Must test garment according to care instruction and pass

Restricted Substances (RS) Test

Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children

Documents

Fabric+&+Apparel+Performance+Testing+Protocol