Everything you need to know about Patterns…..

Apparel I4.00 Pattern and Fabric Preparation

Objective 3.01 B Understanding Patterns

• Start Date: 10/19

• Essential Questions:– What are the parts of the pattern?– What are the pattern symbols and how are they

used in garment construction?– What are the sections of a guide sheet and how

are they used?

–Pattern Envelope • Photo• Pattern Number #• Cost• Sizes Available• Suggested Fabrics• Notions• Yardage•Measurements /size• Sketch

Pattern Basics• A pattern is a blueprint

with all the instructions to construct a project

• Three essential parts:– Pattern envelope– Guide sheet– Tissue pattern pieces

Guide Sheet

• Includes:– cutting layout– sewing instructions– finished product

sketches– other special

information

PATT

ERN PIE

CES &

SYMBOLS

Fewer pattern pieces=easier pattern

• Pattern piece name/number or letter• Front or back • Number of pieces to cut

Things to be aware of on the Pattern Pieces!

Stitching/seam line(broken line, usually 5/8”)

Hem line(indicates how much depth to be turned up

for hem)

Adjustment line(double parallel lines where

can be shortened or lengthened)

Lines to be aware

of!!Cutting

line(solid outline)

Grain line(parallel line,

designates placement on

grain)

Brackets (Place on Fold Line)

Overlap

Center

front

• Requires solid line to be placed on fold of fabric• Usually seen at center front or back• May also be represented by only a line with

“place on fold” printed.

Center front and back• Indicates the

center front or back of garment

• Triangular shapes to designate fold and stitching

• Control fullness

Notches• Diamond shaped

symbols• Used for matching

seams and joining garment pieces.

Darts

Stitching lineFold line

Dots, Squares, or Triangles• matches pieces of fabric• great for places with easing (like sleeves)• Sometimes to indicate placement of details

like pockets or zippers

Buttonhole Placement

• Shows exact location and length of each buttonhole

. . . .

• Have many different sizes on same piece

• Mark cutting line to remember which size before cutting– use a highlighter

• They do not have a seam line on them

Multi-sizedPatterns

LAYI

NG OUT

PATT

ERNS

Fabric Cutting Layouts

• The diagram on the guide sheet that shows how to arrange the different pattern pieces on 45” or 60” fabric

• Select your layout diagram based on:– the view of the pieces– fabric width– fabric type– size

Fabric GrainsSelvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray

Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as the selvage, strongest threads.

Crosswise grain – runs across fabric from one selvage to the other, usually has slight stretch.

Bias – runs diagonally across the fabric. Has the most stretch.

**Groups do fabric demo

Fabric Folds

Lengthwise FoldFold fabric in half lengthwise with

right sides together

Crosswise FoldFold perpendicular to selvages

Center/Double FoldFolded twice along the

lengthwise grainSelvages meet in the middle

Partial FoldFold fabric only wide enough to

fit the widest pattern piece needed on fold

Placement of pattern pieces

• A shaded pattern piece on a cutting layout indicates that the piece should be turned printed side down

• FIRST: place the pieces on the fold or the largest ones

• Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to cut by each pattern

• Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to fabric, and especially before cutting!!!!

• Follow layout diagram exactly or at least get pattern pieces to fit with all on proper grain

FABRIC

PREP,

PIN

NING,

CUTTIN

G, AND M

ARKING

FABRIC PREPARATION• Preshrink fabrics by washing–Helps straighten grain–Removes some fabric finishes– Shows how it will be when

finished garment

PINNING• Pin the grain line first!• Place pins about every 6” • Pins should be perpendicular

to fabric/pattern edge (cutting line).

• Place pins closer in curves

• Place pins diagonally in corners

CUTTING

• Use dressmaker shears• Cut with long, smooth cuts• Keep fabric & Pattern flat on

surface• Notches should be cut away from seam allowance.• Double notches should be cut together with one

long edge.

MARKING

• Mark areas with important features• Mark dots & squares • Mark darts• Mark only on the wrong side of fabric.• Remove before pressing- or what

happens??

QUICK THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW!

• Where can you find care instructions for fabric?

• What information is on a pattern piece?• What information is on the guide sheets?• What pattern symbols assist you in

matching pattern pieces?