Patterns Instruction: Following instruction must be marked on apparel pattern, to enable the garment to be made up correctly: -1. Style Number.2. Name of the part3. Size ( it will show you how to find your size on a pattern finished garment measurements)4. Grain Line: All patterns must have grain lines. It indicates the length direction of fabrics, i.e. during marker making all patterns must be placed to the length direction.5. Balance Mark: Used to ensure patterns are sewn together at the correct points.6. Construction Lines: These include buttonholes, pocket placing etc.Garment Patterns Construction: 1. Manual Method.2. By Computer (CAD).

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NAME: Santosh singh bishtRegno: 20972Batch: AM may july 2011

Principles of Pattern Making:A garment sewing pattterns or garment fabric & patterns draft is developed by calculating, taking account of the following measurements: -1. Direct Sample.2. Specification Sheet/ Measurement Chart.3. Actual body size measurements.4. Easy Allowances.5. Sewing Allowance.Pattern Draft:A pattern draft is a diagrammatic representation of the way a garment is constructed. The objective of pattern draft is to develop a sample garment

Pattern GradingGrading is the process used for creating sized patterns. There are certain proportional rules and set increments that form the basis of grading. These rules are set on the basis of analysis on body measurements of the general population. The clothing firms also help in pattern grading using the specifications provided by the apparel manufacturers and some of them also assist the manufacturers in establishing specifications for their product. The grade rules are developed keeping in view the market segment for which the product is intended such as men, women, youth, child, toddler etc. These firms mostly use the softwares available in the market for checking the accuracy of the grades.

Marker makingFabric is the most important basic material for apparel making and it accounts for around 50 per cent of the ex-factory cost of a garment. Thus, material optimization or maximizing fabric utilization is the fundamental factor for every apparel firm. Marker making is done to avoid material wastage. While making markers, fabric width, length, fabric type and subsequent cutting method, all are taken into account. Both single size and multiple size paper markers are made using automated marker making tools and Computer Aided Design Computer Aided Manufacturing (CADCAM) along with traditional manual methods. The firms providing this service use previously graded pattern or the digitized copy of styles provided by the apparel manufacturers.

Apparel CuttingApart from using traditional tools such as straight knife, band knife, shears etc. nowadays, automatic spreading equipment and computerized cutting systems are widely used for apparel cutting . Pattern specifications are kept into consideration while cutting which ensures that the constructed garment is exactly similar to the sample produced. The use of markers ensures as little textile waste as possible.

Apparel SewingThe sewing operation in most of the garment construction companies is closely supervised for quality control. A variety of apparel styles and fabrics are sewn these days. There are a large number of sewing machines available for almost any sewing operation. Some of the examples of such machines are single needle, double needle, safety stitch, automatic meter, automatic multi stitch, loop tacker, pocket welt, keyhole buttonhole, automatic button sewer, round eyelet etc.

Pressing and FinishingAfter the sewing operation, the constructed garments are examined, pressed, tagged and bagged in the pressing and finishing department. The automated processes adopted these days prevent the possibility of wrinkling of the sewn garments throughout the finishing process.