1975.95.28

Evening dress, 1911-1913

Magenta and black silk twill, dark magenta silk chiffon, black silk satin, white cotton lace, white

bobbinet

The bobbinet lining is cut in one piece, with hook and eye closures in the back opening and the

side seam sewn from A to B. The lace strips are laid over the shoulder on each side, overlapping

in front at the marks, and sewn down in back with a hook-and-thread-eye fastening on a bobbinet

placket where indicated. The first chiffon layer is sewn down on top, with the sleeve sewn from

E to F. Over this is sewn the twill half-bodice, seamed at the sides and slightly gathered at the

bottom in front, fastening with hooks and thread eyes. (NB: the pattern for the first chiffon layer

ends at the top of the silk twill, rather than at the bottom of the lining.) The whole is covered by

the second chiffon layer, gathered slightly at the waist, and seamed from C to D for sleeves. Both

chiffon layers are finished with a selvedge along the neckline and picots on the sleeve edges.

The unlined skirt has a 3" hem. Behind the center back panel, there is a black satin lining within

the dashed line, covered with a twill facing to the dotted line. The left seam of the panel is open

to the mark, and fastens with snaps where indicated. The side back seam allowances are pressed

towards the front and topstitched down. The waistline is covered with a twill sash or belt,

pleated as indicated, slipstitched to the gown, and fastening with hooks and bars at the same

place as the skirt. A faux bow of silk twill, drawn in the pattern to scale, covers the belt at the

center back.