1911 #30 Dressy Dress -- Robe Habillee This pretty dress is cut from a single piece, the fabric being folded on the straight thread at shoulder level. The front is completely on the straight thread on all its height whereas the back is bias. Let us remember, in passing, that the “droits fils” [straight threads] are always indicated in our drawings by the four lines of the gray framework out of which the pattern is removed. Therefore, when one has copied and cut this pattern, it will have to be placed in the same position where you see it on the gray background of the drawing on a piece of fabric having its four sides on the straight thread. Without this essential precaution, the cut would not be anymore the same and the pattern will not be good. Thus, in figure 1 (dos de la robe [back of the dress]) you will notice that the line where are these words: “couture derriere et ourlet” [back seam and hem] is a lot closer to the straight thread line of the frame at the top than at the bottom: this detail indicates to you, immediately, that the backs of the dress are bias. You see, on the contrary, that, still in the same figure 1, the line of the sleeve which bears the word “ourlet” [hem] is an equal distance, in all its length, from the straight thread line of the framework: that means that the bottom of this sleeve is on the straight thread. This figure 1 is cut out on the fabric folded double or on two pieces placed wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side. In figure 2 (devant de la robe [front of the dress]), notice that the dotted line passing through the middle of the engraving is at an equal distance from the lines on the straight thread of the framework on all its length: this indicates that the middle of the front of the dress is on the straight thread. Embroidery. – It is made entirely in stem stitch and this work is shown to you in the process of execution at the side of figure 1. It is with this simple stem stitch that you give to your dress the appearance of a tunic on an underdress. This combination is recommended to the mothers eager to benefit from the dresses of last year and [which have] become too short. The necessary seams for the widening and for the extension will disappear easily under the embroidery. Moreover one can employ a different fabric to lengthen. Translation copyright 2010 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com