Over the last decade design, fashion andarchitecture have all helped Copenhagenemerge as a stylish city break destinationthat’s even been called the Paris of theNorth. To some that might sound like a bitof an exaggeration but the minute I landed

on Danish soil I could see why it has become such acutting-edge capital.Copenhagen Airport is steeped in Scandinavian style,

from the sleek aircraft wing-shaped Terminal 3, bronzestatues of two girls leaning over a balcony and seeminglysurveying the passing passengers, glass birds flying nearthe ceiling and expansive art on the walls on a par withanything you’d see in a gallery. I made my way to theexit across tasteful, wooden floors instead of the garish,patterned carpets so beloved of airports worldwide.The once-humble fishing village that evolved into the

glittering capital of the Danish empire, and now home to

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Once upon a time home to Hans Christian Andersen,Copenhagen is an enchanting destination of prettycobbled streets, vibrant canals, historic attractions, cutting-edge design, and some of the best food in Scandinavia. Sitcomfortably as Jeannine Williamson explains

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Fairytalecity

All pictures: www.copenhagenmediacenter.com and photographer or entity where credited

n Frederiksborg Castle

n Christmas in TivoliMorten Jerichau

(http://kglteater.dk) and one of the world’s most-photographed ladies, the Little Mermaid statue inspiredby the fairytale and a present from brewer Carl Jacobsento the city in 1913.No visit would be complete without taking in Tivoli

(www.tivoli.dk). Dating back to 1843 and famed for itsgardens and theatre, it is one of the world’soldest amusement parks and is said to haveinspired Walt Disney to create Disneyland. Itis particularly magical at night during theChristmas market season, when it isopened for a monthfrom mid-Novemberand lit bythousandsof fairy lights.The title

of theworld’soldestamuse-

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nearly one third of the country’s 5.3 million population, isa fascinating destination with a broad appeal for every-one, including families, foodies and culture vultures. The Medieval streets encapsulate more than 1,000

years of history. They’ve been walked on by every gener-ation of the world’s oldest royal family and have inspiredgenerations of artists and writers, most famously story-teller Hans Christian Andersen, who spent much of hislife in the city and wrote tales including Thumbelina,The Snow Queen, The Ugly Duckling and, of course,The Little Mermaid that has become the city’s symbol.Visitors can experience this heritage by wandering alongcobbled squares and taking in the sumptuous palaces andcopper-roofed town houses.

compact cityCopenhagen is a compact, flat city and most of the mainsights are within easy walking distance. It’s also packedwith cyclists, so take extra care when you cross the busybicycle lanes; or why not join the locals and hire a bikeor pick up a free city bike to explore on two wheelsyourself?I spent my first morning strolling around the charm-

ing narrow streets by Nyhavn Canal where HansChristian Andersen lived. For a grand view of the past,head to Amalienborg Palace (www.dkks.dk), originallybuilt as mansions for 18th century nobility, and Kron-borg (www.kronborgcastle.com), one of NorthernEurope’s most important Renaissance castles andimmortalised in Shakespeare’s Hamlet.A relaxing way to view the city is on a canal cruise or

sailing trip around the harbour, the latter taking in sightssuch as the spectacular Copenhagen Opera House

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beyondcopenhagenA city break caneasily becombined withday trips intothe countrysideor neighbouringSweden. Odense, with itstiny streets andhouses, is onFunen Island,which is connected to the mainland bybridge and 90 minutes fromCopenhagen by road or rail. The HansChristian Andersen Museum(www.museum.odense.dk) includes

the author’s childhood home andyoungsters will love the Tinderboxactivity centre across the street with itsdressing up room and storytellingtheatre.Other popular excursions fromCopenhagen include: cruises to thesurrounding islands of Hven(www.visithven.dk), known as the“paradise island” of the Oresund andwith a museum commemorating Danishastronomer Tycho Brahe; Christianso(www.christiansoe.dk), with its oldforts; and neighbouring Bornholm(www.bornholm.info). Back on dry land, the Swedish city ofMalmo is well-known for its restaurants,with the country’s highestconcentration per capita, and is a 30-minute road or rail journey fromCopenhagen across the 10-mile sweepof the spectacular Oresund Bridge.

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shoppingRunning a mile through the citycentre is Stroget, Europe’s longestpedestrian street and packed withwell-known high street names anddesigner shops. Copenhagen issynonymous with the world-famous,hand-painted porcelain of the samename and beautiful tableware andfigurines can be found, at a price, atthe Royal Copenhagen PorcelainHouse (www.royalcopenhagen.com)in Amagertorv. More affordable is thefactory outlet at Frederiksberg on the

western city outskirts.For stylish and quirky souvenirs and

gifts, such as kitchen gadgets, visit theDanish Design Centre (www.ddc.dk)near Tivoli. The city’s oldest departmentstore, worth seeing for the architecturealone, is Magasin du Nord(www.magasin.dk), formerly a hotelwhere Hans Christian Andersen oncelodged in an attic room. Ravnsborggade(www.ravnsborggade.dk) is theplace to find antiques and bargainhunters should browse aroundGammel Strand, a popular city-centreflea market that’s open Friday andSaturday from May-September.

n Royal Copenhagen Christmas table n Strolling along Stroget pedestrian streetn Happy days in Nyhaven

n Christiania biken The Oresund Bridge

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ment park is actually held by another Danish institution.Dyrehavsbakken – known simply as Bakken – openednorth of Copenhagen in 1583 and is still operating today.Another attraction that will particularly appeal to

families is Copenhagen Zoo (www.zoo.dk) with itsexcellent children’s area, and look out for Copenhagen’snewest attraction, The Blue Planet aquarium, due toopen in 2013. Meanwhile, adults will want to make tracks to the

Carlsberg Visitor Centre (www.visitcarlsberg.dk),historic home of the famed local brew where tours endwith the all-important tasting.

neighbourhoodsOn the design theme this year is the 100th anniversaryof the birth of architect and furniture designer Finn Juhland his house at Charlottenlund(www.ordrupgaard.dk), six miles north of Copen-hagen, is a showcase to his work. Although it’s relatively small, Copenhagen has

several distinct neighbourhoods. Vesterbro used to be aninfamous red light district but, following a huge invest-ment, it has become one of the trendiest places in town.Christianshavn, the old working class neighbourhood, isa picturesque canalside area with narrow streets andcharming 19th century houses. Other diverse areasinclude cosmopolitan Norrebro, a great place for vintageshopping, and the autonomous hippy “free town” ofChristiania that’s celebrating its 41st anniversary thisyear.When it’s time for a break there are plenty of places

to eat and drink. In Nyhavn, stop off at one of the cafesor bars submerged in historic cellars or overlooking thewater. Smorrebrod, the famous Danish open sandwiches,are traditionally served at lunchtime and toppingsinclude succulent salmon, seafood, meat, eggs, cheeseand poultry garnished with salad, sauces and herbs. Icertainly had quite a job making my mind up at IdaDavidsen (www.idadavidsen.dk), where the menu hasover 177 choices. And if you want to push the boat out, Copenhagen

boasts nine Michelin restaurants, totalling more starsthan any other Scandinavian city. The latest newcomer tothe list is the contemporary AOC restaurant (www.aaro-co.dk), in a 17th century vaulted cellar.Incidentally, don’t ask for a Danish pastry as there’s

no such thing in Denmark. The closest sweet treat isweinerbrod or Vienna bread!

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copenhagen facts

Freelance writer Jeannine Williamson has visited cities around the world. She became a big fan of theDanish institution hygge, a cosy evening drink with friends,and was surprised to find the Little Mermaid is exactly that – tiny.

when to goDespite its northerly latitude, Copenhagen’sclimate is fairly mild and it’s a year-rounddestination. The coldest month isFebruary, averaging just below freezing,and June-August is warmest, withtemperatures of 19.5C.

getting thereBritish Airways (www.ba.com), BMI(www.flybmi.com), easyJet (www.easyjet.com), Norwegian(www.norwegian.com), Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) andScandinavian Airlines (www.flysas.com) fly to Copenhagen direct fromLondon and regional airports. The airport to city centre rail link takes just 13 minutes.DFDS Seaways (www.dfdsseaways.co.uk) operates daily overnightferry crossings from Harwich to Esbjerg and onward driving time toCopenhagen is just over three hours.

accommodationFrom luxury five-star and boutique properties to reasonably-pricedfamily hotels, B&Bs and city apartments, Copenhagen hasaccommodation to suit all tastes and budgets. The Radisson Blu Royal(www.radissonblu.com) is the iconic hotel designed by ArneJacobsen, famous for his egg chair, and 71 Nyhavn(www.71nyhavnhotel.com) is an atmospheric harbourside propertyin two 19th century warehouses.

tour operatorsCompanies featuring Copenhagen include Abercrombie & Kent(www.abercrombiekent.co.uk), Best Served Holidays (www.best-served.co.uk), Cresta Holidays (www.crestaholidays.co.uk),Kirker Holidays (www.kirkerholidays.com), Nordic Experience(www.nordicexperience.co.uk) and Taber Holidays(www.taberhols.co.uk).

getting aroundMetro, buses and trains operate on a useful one fare system with ticketsvalid on all three. The cOPENhagen CARD, starting at €31 for 24 hours,provides free public transport, free entry into 65 attractions and other

discounts. It can be bought at the airport, VisitorCentre and a number of hotels. Copenhagen

is renowned as a bike-friendly city and freebicycles are available from 125 standsfrom mid-April to November.

tourist informationVisit Copenhagen:

www.visitcopenhagen.comVisit Denmark: 020 7259 5958,

www.visitdenmark.com

n Bakken ride

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n Copenhagenby bike