1
he MAC flagship in Times Square employs 64 makeup artists who collectively speak nine different languages. At Galeries Lafayette in Paris, signs in Mandarin share floor space with French communiqués. Arabic is the lingua franca at London’s key retail destinations like Harrods and Selfridges, while in Turkey, speaking Russian is fast becoming a job requirement for sales associates. As a thriving middle class emerges in developing countries like China and Brazil, these newly empowered citizens are traveling abroad in ever increasing numbers. And when they travel, tops on their list of activities is shopping. “We are more nomadic than we were 20 years ago,” Clinique’s Ricardo Quintero told me when I interviewed him for “Movers, Shakers & Shoppers.” “Today, you see the Chinese everywhere—they are traveling the world and learning the codes of Western luxury.” Turn to page 28 to discover how savvy retailers and marketers are effectively targeting the new jet-setters. The five women in “Counter Intuition” have personally seen an increase in the tourist trade. Each is a leading beauty adviser for a top brand at a major retailer around the country, and as such, is on the front lines of ever-evolving consumer patterns. We wanted to find out their firsthand experiences about what women are really looking for today—and what makes them buy in today’s post-recession reality. Their answers, starting on page 36, are illuminating. Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer and chief shopper of WSL Strategic Retail, not only knows what women want—she knows how, when, why and where they like to buy it. Liebmann has channeled her passion for shopping to create one of the world’s foremost consumer consultancies. Not one to sugarcoat the news, Liebmann’s insights are as bold as her personal style, and retailers such as Saks’ Steve Sadove and Boots’ Steve Lloyd count themselves among her fans. Find out why in “Life on the Buy Side” on page 32. Elsewhere in this issue devoted to all things retail, you’ll find an in-depth interview with Nars ceo Louis Desazars, who has powered the brand to double-digit growth globally; an update on serial entrepreneur Gail Federici and fantastic insights into the beauty industry at work and at play. I hope you enjoy it. Please drop me a line at jenny_fine@fairchildfashion. com and let me know. —JENNY B. FINE 4 WWD BEAUTY INC EDITOR’S LETTER EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT TIFFANY MEGNATH EDITORIAL INTERN KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR ART BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR TABITHA LEE UEBLACKER DESIGN INTERN CONTRIBUTORS SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), KERRY OLSEN (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR ERIN FITZGERALD STUDIO MANAGER EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, BEN HASSETT, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHER, WWD CYNTHIA BONIELLO BEAUTY DIRECTOR JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR COURTNEY HAZIRJIAN WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER ODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARIS SAM TODD BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING EMILY CORTEZ CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING MARJORIE KEATING PUBLIC RELATIONS DIRECTOR DANIELLE MCMURRAY DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING AND SPECIAL PROJECTS JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING FABIO SALLES CREATIVE DIRECTOR JULIA DONAHUE COPY DIRECTOR BRIANNA LIPOVSKY SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER KRISTIN MOONEY MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING JAMIE RUDOLPH MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING ALISSA GROSS ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING JESSICA CASEY ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING DANIELLE K. STEWART COORDINATOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING LEIGH ALCOTT MARKETING COORDINATOR PRODUCTION GENA KELLY VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER CIRCULATION ELLEN DEALY SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR JOHN CROSS PLANNING AND OPERATIONS DIRECTOR PEGGY PYLE MARKETING DIRECTOR SUZANNE BERARDI SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER ALISON CHRISTIE ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA WILL SCHENCK CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER SUZANNE REINHARDT VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS DAN SHAR VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL MELISSA BRECHER VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS MICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT DEVON BEEMER FINANCE DIRECTOR TANYA DAVIS BUSINESS ANALYST JANET JANOFF BUSINESS MANAGER NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR PETER W. KAPLAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR GINA SANDERS PRESIDENT & CEO T Road Warriors Photo by Thomas Iannaccone. Stylist: Mayte Allende. Hair by Ayumi Yamamoto at Defacto for Redken. Makeup by Janeiro for Diorskin at Beautywingny.com. Manicure by Ana Maria for Artists by Timothy Priano.com. Fashion Assistant: Ashleigh Williams. Photo Assistant: Bridget Collins. Model: Monika/Fusion. Sweater by White + Warren; blouse by Preen; skirt, shoes and suitcase by Louis Vuitton; earrings by Lauren Craſt.

Editor's Letter: Road Warriors, WWD Beauty Inc., April 13, 2012

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Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer and chief shopper of WSL Strategic Retail, not only knows what women want—she knows how, when, why and where they like to buy it. Liebmann has channeled her passion for shopping to create one of the world’s foremost consumer consultancies. Not one to sugarcoat the news, Liebmann’s insights are as bold as her personal style, and retailers such as Saks’ Steve Sadove and Boots’ Steve Lloyd count themselves among her fans. Find out why in “Life on the Buy Side.”

Citation preview

he MAC flagship in Times Square employs 64 makeup artists

who collectively speak nine different languages. At Galeries

Lafayette in Paris, signs in Mandarin share floor space with

French communiqués. Arabic is the lingua franca at London’s

key retail destinations like Harrods and Selfridges, while in

Turkey, speaking Russian is fast becoming a job requirement for sales

associates. As a thriving middle class emerges in developing countries like

China and Brazil, these newly empowered citizens are traveling abroad

in ever increasing numbers. And when they travel, tops on their list of

activities is shopping. “We are more nomadic than we were 20 years ago,”

Clinique’s Ricardo Quintero told me when I interviewed him for “Movers,

Shakers & Shoppers.” “Today, you see the Chinese everywhere—they

are traveling the world and learning the codes of Western luxury.” Turn

to page 28 to discover how savvy retailers and marketers are effectively

targeting the new jet-setters.

The five women in “Counter Intuition” have personally seen an increase

in the tourist trade. Each is a leading beauty adviser for a top brand at

a major retailer around the country, and as such, is on the front lines of

ever-evolving consumer patterns. We wanted to find out their firsthand

experiences about what women are really looking for today—and what

makes them buy in today’s post-recession reality. Their answers, starting

on page 36, are illuminating.

Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer and chief shopper of WSL

Strategic Retail, not only knows what women want—she knows how,

when, why and where they like to buy it. Liebmann has channeled her

passion for shopping to create

one of the world’s foremost

consumer consultancies. Not

one to sugarcoat the news,

Liebmann’s insights are as

bold as her personal style, and

retailers such as Saks’ Steve

Sadove and Boots’ Steve Lloyd

count themselves among her

fans. Find out why in “Life on

the Buy Side” on page 32.

Elsewhere in this issue

devoted to all things retail,

you’ll find an in-depth interview

with Nars ceo Louis Desazars,

who has powered the brand to

double-digit growth globally; an

update on serial entrepreneur

Gail Federici and fantastic

insights into the beauty industry

at work and at play. I hope you

enjoy it. Please drop me a line

at jenny_fine@fairchildfashion.

com and let me know.

—Jenny B. Fine

4 wwd beauty inc

editor’s letter

Edward Nardoza editor in chief, WWd

PEtE BorN executive editor, beautyJENNy B. FiNE editor

JENNiFEr wEil european editorJuliE NaughtoN Senior preStige Market beauty editorMolly Prior beauty financial editorFayE BrookMaN contributing editor BEliSa SilVa beauty Market editor, MaSSJayME Cyk editorial aSSiStanttiFFaNy MEgNath editorial internkatiE krEtSChMEr copy editor

ArtBarBara SulliVaN art director taBitha lEE uEBlaCkEr deSign intern

ContributorsSaMaNtha CoNti aNd NiNa JoNES (london), MilES SoCha (Paris), kErry olSEN (Milan), MarCy MEdiNa aNd raChEl BrowN (los angeles), MEliSSa driEr aNd SuSaN StoNE (Berlin), aMaNda kaiSEr (tokyo)

PhotoCarriE ProVENzaNo photo editorlExiE MorElaNd aSSociate photo editorJENNa grEENE aSSiStant photo editorEriN FitzgErald Studio ManagerEilEEN tSuJi photo coordinatorroBErt CohEN photo facilitatorJohN aquiNo, gEorgE ChiNSEE, StEVE EiChNEr, kylE EriCkSEN, thoMaS iaNNaCCoNE, roBErt Mitra photographerS

Contributing PhotogrAPhersruVEN aFaNador, kENJi aoki, daN BorriS, NigEl diCkSoN, BEN haSSEtt, hENry lEutwylEr, Mark haNauEr, MiChaEl NaglE, JEFF riEdEl, PhiliPPE SaloMoN, daVid lEwiS taylor, yaSu+JuNko

beAuty inC AdvertisingPaul Jowdy vice preSident, publiSher, WWd CyNthia BoNiEllo beauty directorJill BirEN WeSt coaSt directorCourtNEy hazirJiaN WeSt coaSt account ManagerodilE Eda-PiErrE account Manager, pariSSaM todd beauty SaleS aSSiStant

MArketing/CreAtive serviCes JaNEt MENakEr executive director, MarketingEMily CortEz creative ServiceS directorkriStEN M. wildMaN executive director, event MarketingMarJoriE kEatiNg public relationS directordaNiEllE MCMurray director, integrated Marketing and Special projectSJENNiFEr PiNCuS director, integrated MarketingFaBio SallES creative directorJulia doNahuE copy director BriaNNa liPoVSky Senior Marketing ManagerkriStiN MooNEy Manager, event MarketingJaMiE rudolPh Manager, event Marketing aliSSa groSS aSSociate Manager, integrated Marketing JESSiCa CaSEy aSSociate Manager, integrated MarketingdaNiEllE k. StEwart coordinator, integrated MarketinglEigh alCott Marketing coordinator

ProduCtiongENa kElly vice preSident, ManufacturingChriS wENgiEl group production directorkEViN hurlEy production directorJill BrEiNEr aSSociate production Manager

CirCulAtionEllEN dEaly Senior executive directorJohN CroSS planning and operationS directorPEggy PylE Marketing directorSuzaNNE BErardi Senior Marketing ManageraliSoN ChriStiE aSSiStant Marketing Manager

fAirChild fAshion MediAwill SChENCk chief revenue officer SuzaNNE rEiNhardt vice preSident, finance & operationSdaN Shar vice preSident, general Manager, digitalMEliSSa BrEChEr vice preSident, Marketing & coMMunicationSMiChaEl atMorE editorial director, footWear neWS & director of brand developMent dEVoN BEEMEr finance directortaNya daViS buSineSS analyStJaNEt JaNoFF buSineSS Manager

NaNCy ButkuS creative director

PEtEr w. kaPlaN editorial director

giNa SaNdErS preSident & ceo

Troad warriors

Photo by thomas iannaccone. Stylist: Mayte allende. hair by ayumi yamamoto at defacto for redken. Makeup by Janeiro for diorskin at Beautywingny.com. Manicure by ana Maria for artists by timothy Priano.com. Fashion assistant: ashleigh williams. Photo assistant: Bridget Collins. Model: Monika/Fusion. Sweater by white + warren; blouse by Preen; skirt, shoes and suitcase by louis Vuitton; earrings by lauren Craft.

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