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Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer and chief shopper of WSL Strategic Retail, not only knows what women want—she knows how, when, why and where they like to buy it. Liebmann has channeled her passion for shopping to create one of the world’s foremost consumer consultancies. Not one to sugarcoat the news, Liebmann’s insights are as bold as her personal style, and retailers such as Saks’ Steve Sadove and Boots’ Steve Lloyd count themselves among her fans. Find out why in “Life on the Buy Side.”
Citation preview
he MAC flagship in Times Square employs 64 makeup artists
who collectively speak nine different languages. At Galeries
Lafayette in Paris, signs in Mandarin share floor space with
French communiqués. Arabic is the lingua franca at London’s
key retail destinations like Harrods and Selfridges, while in
Turkey, speaking Russian is fast becoming a job requirement for sales
associates. As a thriving middle class emerges in developing countries like
China and Brazil, these newly empowered citizens are traveling abroad
in ever increasing numbers. And when they travel, tops on their list of
activities is shopping. “We are more nomadic than we were 20 years ago,”
Clinique’s Ricardo Quintero told me when I interviewed him for “Movers,
Shakers & Shoppers.” “Today, you see the Chinese everywhere—they
are traveling the world and learning the codes of Western luxury.” Turn
to page 28 to discover how savvy retailers and marketers are effectively
targeting the new jet-setters.
The five women in “Counter Intuition” have personally seen an increase
in the tourist trade. Each is a leading beauty adviser for a top brand at
a major retailer around the country, and as such, is on the front lines of
ever-evolving consumer patterns. We wanted to find out their firsthand
experiences about what women are really looking for today—and what
makes them buy in today’s post-recession reality. Their answers, starting
on page 36, are illuminating.
Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer and chief shopper of WSL
Strategic Retail, not only knows what women want—she knows how,
when, why and where they like to buy it. Liebmann has channeled her
passion for shopping to create
one of the world’s foremost
consumer consultancies. Not
one to sugarcoat the news,
Liebmann’s insights are as
bold as her personal style, and
retailers such as Saks’ Steve
Sadove and Boots’ Steve Lloyd
count themselves among her
fans. Find out why in “Life on
the Buy Side” on page 32.
Elsewhere in this issue
devoted to all things retail,
you’ll find an in-depth interview
with Nars ceo Louis Desazars,
who has powered the brand to
double-digit growth globally; an
update on serial entrepreneur
Gail Federici and fantastic
insights into the beauty industry
at work and at play. I hope you
enjoy it. Please drop me a line
at jenny_fine@fairchildfashion.
com and let me know.
—Jenny B. Fine
4 wwd beauty inc
editor’s letter
Edward Nardoza editor in chief, WWd
PEtE BorN executive editor, beautyJENNy B. FiNE editor
JENNiFEr wEil european editorJuliE NaughtoN Senior preStige Market beauty editorMolly Prior beauty financial editorFayE BrookMaN contributing editor BEliSa SilVa beauty Market editor, MaSSJayME Cyk editorial aSSiStanttiFFaNy MEgNath editorial internkatiE krEtSChMEr copy editor
ArtBarBara SulliVaN art director taBitha lEE uEBlaCkEr deSign intern
ContributorsSaMaNtha CoNti aNd NiNa JoNES (london), MilES SoCha (Paris), kErry olSEN (Milan), MarCy MEdiNa aNd raChEl BrowN (los angeles), MEliSSa driEr aNd SuSaN StoNE (Berlin), aMaNda kaiSEr (tokyo)
PhotoCarriE ProVENzaNo photo editorlExiE MorElaNd aSSociate photo editorJENNa grEENE aSSiStant photo editorEriN FitzgErald Studio ManagerEilEEN tSuJi photo coordinatorroBErt CohEN photo facilitatorJohN aquiNo, gEorgE ChiNSEE, StEVE EiChNEr, kylE EriCkSEN, thoMaS iaNNaCCoNE, roBErt Mitra photographerS
Contributing PhotogrAPhersruVEN aFaNador, kENJi aoki, daN BorriS, NigEl diCkSoN, BEN haSSEtt, hENry lEutwylEr, Mark haNauEr, MiChaEl NaglE, JEFF riEdEl, PhiliPPE SaloMoN, daVid lEwiS taylor, yaSu+JuNko
beAuty inC AdvertisingPaul Jowdy vice preSident, publiSher, WWd CyNthia BoNiEllo beauty directorJill BirEN WeSt coaSt directorCourtNEy hazirJiaN WeSt coaSt account ManagerodilE Eda-PiErrE account Manager, pariSSaM todd beauty SaleS aSSiStant
MArketing/CreAtive serviCes JaNEt MENakEr executive director, MarketingEMily CortEz creative ServiceS directorkriStEN M. wildMaN executive director, event MarketingMarJoriE kEatiNg public relationS directordaNiEllE MCMurray director, integrated Marketing and Special projectSJENNiFEr PiNCuS director, integrated MarketingFaBio SallES creative directorJulia doNahuE copy director BriaNNa liPoVSky Senior Marketing ManagerkriStiN MooNEy Manager, event MarketingJaMiE rudolPh Manager, event Marketing aliSSa groSS aSSociate Manager, integrated Marketing JESSiCa CaSEy aSSociate Manager, integrated MarketingdaNiEllE k. StEwart coordinator, integrated MarketinglEigh alCott Marketing coordinator
ProduCtiongENa kElly vice preSident, ManufacturingChriS wENgiEl group production directorkEViN hurlEy production directorJill BrEiNEr aSSociate production Manager
CirCulAtionEllEN dEaly Senior executive directorJohN CroSS planning and operationS directorPEggy PylE Marketing directorSuzaNNE BErardi Senior Marketing ManageraliSoN ChriStiE aSSiStant Marketing Manager
fAirChild fAshion MediAwill SChENCk chief revenue officer SuzaNNE rEiNhardt vice preSident, finance & operationSdaN Shar vice preSident, general Manager, digitalMEliSSa BrEChEr vice preSident, Marketing & coMMunicationSMiChaEl atMorE editorial director, footWear neWS & director of brand developMent dEVoN BEEMEr finance directortaNya daViS buSineSS analyStJaNEt JaNoFF buSineSS Manager
NaNCy ButkuS creative director
PEtEr w. kaPlaN editorial director
giNa SaNdErS preSident & ceo
Troad warriors
Photo by thomas iannaccone. Stylist: Mayte allende. hair by ayumi yamamoto at defacto for redken. Makeup by Janeiro for diorskin at Beautywingny.com. Manicure by ana Maria for artists by timothy Priano.com. Fashion assistant: ashleigh williams. Photo assistant: Bridget Collins. Model: Monika/Fusion. Sweater by white + warren; blouse by Preen; skirt, shoes and suitcase by louis Vuitton; earrings by lauren Craft.
BB1204-PG0X-EdLetterMasthead.a;14.indd 4 3/28/12 2:00 PM03282012140055