EDITD Denim Retail in 2015 (1)

7/21/2019 EDITD Denim Retail in 2015 (1)

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DENIM RETAIL IN 2015Denim is a huge part of every retailers business, and everyconsumers wardrobe. There are over 150,000 denim productsin the US and UK markets today, and its a category thatsgrowing*. In recent years, the activewear market boomedbecause of consumer interest in health and tness. Also, the

clever application of retail concepts from new market entrants

BIGGEST RETAILERS OF DENIM

gave the category a halo effect. This displaced some of thetraditional spending on casual apparel. Some might even nowargue that the default casual apparel styles are no longer jeans,and activewear will erode denims traditional place further. In thisreport, we use our global market data to analyse the commercial

state of denim today, uncovering trends, brands and retailers.

Denim Retail in 2015 10 Feb 2015

*Based on the womenswear jeans arrivals from November 2014 to January 2015 vs. same period one year ago.

US MASS/VALUE

1. ASOS (US)

2. Macys

3. Kohls

4. Zappos

5. Dillards

US PREMIUM/LUXURY

1. Nordstrom

2. Saks Fifth Avenue

3. Bloomingdales

4. Neiman Marcus

5. Shopbop

UK MASS/VALUE

1. ASOS (UK)

2. House of Fraser

3. Debenhams

4. Very

5. Littlewoods

UK PREMIUM/LUXURY

1. Farfetch

2. Selfridges

3. My Theresa

4. Matches

5. Harvey Nichols

Jeans

Shorts

Jackets

Skirts

Jeggings

Dresses

Shirts

Accessories

78%

6%

4%

4%

3%

2%

2%

1%

Skinny

Boyfriend

Jeggings

Flared

Turn-up

Straight

Mom

76%

10%

5%

4%

3%

1%

1%

DENIM ASSORTMENT BREAKDOWNBreakdown of womens denim market by garment

based on product count of global womenswear data on January 23, 2015Breakdown of womens denim market by jean t

based on product count of global womenswear data on January 23, 2015

By number of products in stock on January 23, 2015

MOST STOCKED BRANDS

UK WOMEN

1. J. Brand

2. G-Star

3. 7 For All Mankind

UK MEN

1. Diesel

2. Levis

3. G-Star

US MEN

1. Levis


3. Diesel

US WOMEN


2. J. Brand

3. Paige Denim

VISUAL MERCHANDISING AT KEY RETAILERS

0

30

60

90

120

150

FARFETCH NORDSTROM NEIMAN MARCUSHOUSE OF FRASER

Newsletters not featuring denim

Newsletters featuring denim

150

120

90

60

30

0

Both Farfetch and Nordstrom give high value to their denim

offering in communications, frequently featuring jeans and other

denim apparel in newsletters. House of Fraser, as one of the

worlds biggest discounters of denim, may save price slashes by

giving the category greater precedence.

Chart data is based on email newsletters sent during the three

month period of October 23, 2014 - January 23, 2015, which

featured denim brands, denim styling or directed shoppers todenim category pages.

HOW VISIBLE IS DENIM IN THE LAST 3 MONTHS OF PROMOS?


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VALUE PREMIUMMASS LUXURY

The value market is ercely

competitive around price,

with very few outliers. The

bulk of the assortment is

around the $20-40 pricepoints, which are well

stocked and show the hottest

competition.

Theres more diversity of

prices in the premium

market, and it considerably

overlaps mass and luxury.

Premium retailers areincreasingly taking on the

luxury segment.

In the mass market, the $40-

60 bracket is proportionally

smaller compared to adjacent

price points. Products above

$80 tend to have detailing andnishes, such as faux leather

or lace appliqu, to achieve a

higher price point.

Luxury denim products

tend to incorporate higher

end textiles, but other

than brand, are otherwise

undifferentiated fromPremium, by-and-large,

so accordingly are priced

nearer $200-$500.

PRICE ARCHITECTURE

Price pointsUSD

$0-20

$20-40

$40-60

$60-80

$80-100

$100-120

$120-140

$140-160

$160-180

$180-200

Number ofproducts

1,237

5,624

5,400

5,862

2,784

1,760

1,409

832

833

476

Price pointsUSD

$0-100

$100-200

$200-300

$300-400

$400-500

$500-600

$600-700

$700-800

$800-900

$900-1,000

$1,000-1,100

$1,100-1,200

351

1,131

1,966

1,625

750

347

188

75

73

50

43

31

Number ofproducts

Price pointsUSD

$0-50

$50-100

$100-150

$150-200

$200-250

$250-300

$300-350

$350-400

$400-450

$450-500

$500-550

$550-600

123

1,328

1,512

1,841

1,149

374

362

198

150

67

22

24

Number ofproducts

Price pointsUSD

$0-10

$10-20

$20-30

$30-40

$40-50

$50-60

$60-70

$70-80

$80-90

$90-100

Number ofproducts

69

514

1,000

702

459

218

39

16

18

1

Data taken from retailers globally looking at jeans as from January 23, 2015



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luxury has grown. UK luxury denim brands may want to consider

greater emphasis on overseas stockists, and communicating their

brand internationally.

MARKET GROWTH

+50%

0

-50%

In the UK, the emphasis on the premium/luxury market has shrunk

considerably as the mass and value markets take over.

The opposite is evidenced in the States, where the mass and

value markets have declined in the last 12 months, and premium/

Value Mass Premium/Luxury

-8%

+52%

+9%

+29%

-24%

-2%

ValueMass

Premium/Luxury

UK $315

US $179

US$30

UK$26

VALUE OF EACH MARKET SEGMENT

The US and UK womenswear jeans markets are similarly

positioned, but pricing data shows us country-specic price

structures for the mass and premium/luxury market. In the UK,

the mass and luxury markets are distinctly separate, with the

upper tier of pricing retaining high value.

In the US, the premium/luxury market suffers from lower average

pricing and is far less distinguishable from the mass market. As

the US premium/luxury market continues to grow, retailers and

brands will need to work hard to communicate the quality and

lift prices here.

Across the board, luxury

market apparel and

accessories have a higher rate

of discounting than in other

markets.

Biggest discounters:

ASOS, House of Fraser, Kohls

Most discounted brands:J. Brand, 7 For All Mankind,

Current/Elliott

DISCOUNTING

Mass/Value Premium Luxury

Average discount 13.5% Average discount 17%

Based on the womenswear jeans arrivals from November 2014 to January 2015 vs. same period one year ago

UK$57

US$69

39% 35% 45%61% 65% 55%

Average discount 14%

US

UK

Discounted

Full price



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All the Traditionals: 37% of all denim currently online is blueBased on garments currently retailing

All the Non-Blue denimBased on garments currently retailing

J. BRAND TOPSHOP SELFRIDGES

COLOR TRENDS

7 FOR ALL MANKIND ASOSUS$69

DENIM BOTTOMS VS. CASUAL BOTTOMSThe chart here shows the growth in the US and UK jeans

market vs. the growth in casual pants, which include

leggings, jeggings, treggings and sweatpants, over the

past two years. Growth is based upon the number of new

products arriving each month, as well as the number of

products selling out each month.

New arrivals of casual pants have grown by 98% this

January, compared to one year ago. In the same period,

new arrivals of jeans have only grown by 31%. The number

of casual pants selling out this month have grown by 114%

compared to January 2014. The number of jeans selling

out have increased by a lesser 45%.

We can see that casual pants began a climb in October

2014. In November 2014, new arrivals of casual pants

nearly met the number of jeans arriving into store.

December offset that with a dramatic increase in jeans.

Spring 2015s denim trend will propel jeans in the rst halfof this year, but the consumer shift towards more athletic

styles of dress cannot be ignored.

Jeans (new in)

Casual bottoms (new in)

Jeans (sell outs)

Casual bottoms (sell outs)

New in and sell outs over last 2 years

0

5,000

10,000

15,000

20,000

25,00025,000

20,000

15,000

10,000

5,000

0Jan 13 Jun 13 Jan 14 Jun 14 Jan 15

Blue and black are traditionally the most common colors for denim, but gray, white and more recently pink and brown, have started to see

good performance across the market. Looking at the denim assortment breakdown by color we can see how deep retailers are buying in

each shade.



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US

1. Cropped jeans

2. Printed denim3. Flared jeans

4. Stone colored jeans

5. Red colored jeans

Distressed jeans have performed well in retail over the past 12 months. The products listed here arrived in store during that period,

havent been discounted and have been replenished at least once.

The top ve most discounted styles based on

denim styles which arrived online Jan 27, 2013

- Jan 27, 2014, and are still instock despite

receiving 60%+ discounting.

WHITE SUPER SKINNY JEANS

REISS AT JOHN LEWIS

QUILTED DENIM JACKET

MANGO

DARK DENIM ROLL SLEEVE DRESS

MISS SELFRIDGE

DARK BLUE HIGH RISE SKINNY JEANS

NEW LOOK

MOTO JAMIE BLACK SUPER RIPPED JEANS

TOPSHOP

511 SLIM FIT STRAIGHT JEANS

LEVIS AT SELFRIDGES

MIDWEIGHT DENIM SHIRT

J. CREW

OVERSIZED DENIM JACKET

ASOS

MID RISE STRETCH SKINNY JEANS

TOPMAN

DISTRESSED TAPERED LOW JEANS

H&M

UK MEN

UK WOMEN

NICO MID RISE SKINNY JEANS

HUDSON AT NORDSTROM

PS-J DENIM JACKET

PROENZA SCHOULER AT NET-A-PORTER

BROKEN IN BOYFRIEND JEANS

J. CREW

1969 RESOLUTION SLIM STRAIGHT JEANS

GAP

FLYING MONKEY MARY JEANS

LULU

SOUTH 4TH ST SKINNY JEANS

WILLIAMSBURG GARMENT COMPANY

LINED DENIM JACKET

NORTH 40 AT KOHLS

ACID WASHED DENIM SHIRT

FOREVER 21 MEN

DARREN EPIC LIGHTWEIGHT JEANS

J BRAND AT NEIMAN MARCUS

DISTRESSED 3301 TAPERED JEANS

G STAR AT GILT

US MEN

US WOMEN

UK

1. Printed denim

2. Grey denim3. Acid-wash denim

4. Patchwork denim

5. Multi-denim shirts

THE TREND MISSES

TOP MOVING TRENDS



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ABOUT EDITD

TRENDS FOR 2015

EDITD is the world leader in real-time market data and analytics with over 53 billion data points on the fashion industry. EDITD helps apparel

brands like Gap Inc., ASOS and Harvey Nichols have the right products at the right price, at the right time. More info atwww.editd.com.

Womens Trends

Were expecting big growth in denim apparel for

women, with the bulk of interest in non-jeans denim

items. Dresses, co-ord sets, midi-length skirts and

denim jackets will all have an influx of interest. Retailers

will continue to invest in white denim, extremedistressing techniques and all in ones.

Patchwork denim

The luxury market is backing patchwork denim for

both Spring and Fall 2015, but given the high rate of

discounting seen in 2014, retailers should approach with

caution and not experiment with new brands for this trend.

Keep the look simple - opt for panels and tone similarity

as opposed to all-out patchwork and pair with shapes and

techniques already popular with consumers: skinny jeans

and distressing.

Wider legwear

Wider trousers are a trend taking over 2015 beyond

the denim category. Whilst flares can polarise opinion,

designers should consider easing styles in mid-year. In the

meantime, denim culottes are a great option that will work

well following last years culotte success.

Mens Trends

The mens denim market would benefit from

incorporating athletic and sporty styling into denim

apparel in 2015, bridging the athleisure and workwear

markets. Items such as jogger jean shapes and elastic

detailing would work here.

Outerwear

Denim jackets, denim outerwear and shirting will remain

critical pieces within any retailers menswear denimassortment. Clever design will play with linings and washes

on these items, but the real retail wins will come from

promoting items clearly within marketing.

Menswear should also focus on a wider t in jeans, as

retailers strive to nd the skinny jean replacement.

MM6byMaisonMartinMargiela

JamesLongFW15

RobertoCav

alliSS15

AgnesBSS15

ChristopheL

emaireSS15

E.

TautzSS15


Documents

EDITD Denim Retail in 2015 (1)