eaglestonerock

A Climber’s Guide To...

�eaglestone rock climbing guide

OverviewoverviewProtection is either by chemically fixed bolts or traditional methods. Abseil stations are positioned atop each of the major boulders, as indicated on the topographic map on the next page. The best climbing conditions can be had during the drier parts of spring and autumn but be aware that temperatures can sink below zero at night during these times of year. This crag can get hot during the sum-mer months of the year so should probably be avoided.

the localsBe sure to pick up an excellent steak pie at Baker’s Hill on the way out of Perth. Merredin’s French Hot Bread Shop on Barrack St. offers fantastic cakes and great value - their bee stings are not to be missed. The Mukinbudin pub, only �0 minutes drive north has quality pub food and cheap drinks too. The Nungarin Hotel, 15mins away, also has top notch pizza and counter meals.

campingCamping is only a couple of minutes walk away from the climbing, here. Park and camp at the base of the rock, where a rubbish bin is provided. Bring your own water as there is none available. Alternatively, you could stay at the caravan park in Nungarin, approx 15mins away.

getting thereIf you head out from Perth early on Saturday morning, the 3 and a bit hour drive lands you at Eaglestone with time for a good day’s climbing. Camp overnight and take advantage of improved friction in the morning.

Depart Perth via the Great Eastern Highway and head east until you reach Merredin. Head north to Lake Brown by following these directions:

Turn left off Great Eastern Hwy onto Barrack St.Turn left onto Gamenya Av. after 71 metresTurn right at Nungarin Rd. after 1.3kmContinue along Railway Av.Continue along Goomalling-Merredin Rd.Bear right at Knungagin-Merredin Rd., continue for ��kmBear right at Cornish Rd., continue for 10kmTurn right at Lake Brown South Rd., continue for about 4km until the road bears left sharply. Instead, continue straight onto the sand track (�wd safe) which winds all the way around to the back of the rock.

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Locality Map

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area listing

1. Bitter Area

�. Terradome Wall

3. Mini Me Boulder

4. Clockwork Orange Area

5. Fidget Gene Area

6. Emu Wall

7. Wishbone Wall

8. Bad Seed Boulders

Area Topograph

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4eaglestone rock climbing guide

1 Bitter Area

1. Bitter (9m, 16, 3BR to DBB, fa:JG Nov ‘05)Slabby moves continue to pleasant top out to DBB.

2. Juice It Up (13m, 20, 3BR to DBB, fa:MR ‘05)

3. Nudie (13m, 19, 2BR to DBB, fa:KVA ‘05)

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The Terradome Wall can be reached by ascending to the top of the Mini Me boulder 1m R of MM.

4. 21 Jump Street (10m, 21, 3BR to DBB, fa:KVA ‘06)A cool, dynamic start up the face past 3BR to belay station atop the main boulder.

5. Terradome (10m, 26, 2BR to DBB, fa:JG ‘06)Stick-clip the first bolt to protect hard, crimpy start.

2 Terradome Wall

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3 Mini Me Boulder

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TerradomeWall

6. Whiplash(12m, 25, 5BR to NB, fa:JG)

7. Ithica �(12m, 21, 4BR to NB, fa:MR)

8. Project (12m, 4BR, equipped:MR)

9. Jaundice (8m, 14, Trad, fa:SVA)Take the high road and enjoy some smooth moves up the top crack. If anyone is keen enough to solely use the bottom crack, grovel away.

10. Mini Me (6m, 10, Trad, fa:SVA)Short but sweet moves on the side of the Mini Me boulder to ascend to the terrace.

Matt on Ithica

6eaglestone rock climbing guideKim on Clockwork Orange

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5 Fidget Gene Area

4 Clockwork Orange Area

13. Spineless Compression(18m, 23, Trad to DBB, fa:JG, Jul ‘06)

14. Project(18m, 4BR to DBB, equipped:KVA)

15. Project (18m, Trad + 2BR to DBB)Start as for Fidget Gene, trend left out of crack after 5m and continue up fine crimps to DBB.

16. Fidget Gene � (18m, 23, Trad, fa:KVA)Eaglestone’s big crack classic. Start in the obvious overhang and jam whatever you can in to get up. Take at least two big cams (new 5 Camalots or similar) and the rest of your big SLCDs with you to plug the hole.

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11. Project (20m, 6BR to DBB, equipped:MR)

12. Clockwork Orange (13m, 20, 3BR, fa:KVA)

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6 Emu Wall17. Capachow (16m, 19, Trad + 3BR, fa:JG ‘06)

Place gear in the spine to protect the lower section of this climb.

18. Project (18m, 7BR, equipped:AG)

19. You Don’t Know Jack (18m, 17, 6BR, fa:KVA ‘06)

20. Sparrow (18m, 17, 5BR, fa:KVA ‘05)Start this line from the adjacent boulder pile, throwing yourself onto the wall to clip the first BR.

21. Levitation (19m, 19, 5BR, fa:JG ‘05)

22. Emu Walking (17m, 21, Trad + 4BR, fa:KVA Jul ‘06)Terrace most easily gained from the left hand side. Use small cams in the break to protect top section.

23. Full Throttle � (17m, 25, Trad + 6BR, fa:JG)Use small cams in the break to protect top section.

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Steff atop Bitter

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7 Wishbone Wall

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24. Fear The Smear(14m, 21, 6BR to DBB, fa:JG Jul ‘06)

Smear like you’ve never smeared before to hit side-pull and crank upwards.

25. Wishbone(15m, 17, Trad + 5BR, fa:KVA Jul ‘06)

Mantle onto the break and protect the next move with wires or small cams. Head up the steeper end of the spine to the face and con-tinuing BRs.

26. Project(16m, 6BR, equipped:GL)

Jay punishing Whiplash, �5

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8 Bad Seed Boulders

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27. Cold Nights (10m, 18, 3BR, fa:AG Jul ‘06)Clip first BR from the gap between two boulders. Gracefully grovel over the lip to clip �nd BR, then continue up face to abseil station atop boulder.

28. Second Chamber (11m, 22, 3BR to DBB, fa:JG ‘06)Thin and crimpy climbing, tough second clip.

29. Bad Seed (11m, 17, 2BR to DBB, fa:JG ‘06)Good footwork pays off with a short but enjoyable ascent to the top of the Bad Seed boulder.

30. Freeballer (8m, 20R, Trad, fa:JG ‘06)Room for one cam in the gap. Yes, it really is ballsy.

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a padded cell productionbrought to you by the letter h

MMVI

designed and compiled by angus griffin with the assistance ofkim and steff van amerongen, jay girdlestone, claire devereux,

matty rogers and glen ludlam

padded cellKim pulling some pretty sweet moves on Fidget Gene