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Issue 03 of your on-the-pulse insider's guide to Dublin, published on behalf of Dylan Hotel, Dublin 4.
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m a g a z i n eIssue 03
TOPTABLES
12 of thebest placesto eat Inthe cIty
call ofthe SEAEscape toDalkeyfor theday
MAINManDomhnallGleeson
mEEtthEtrEnDsEttErsDUBLININSIDER
Join us on
Guided Factory Tour | Opulent Retail Store | The World’s largest collection of Waterford Crystal
Book your tour online todaywww.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
A magical journey through 200 years of crystal making history.
VISIT THEWATERFORD CRYSTAL
FACTORY
House of Waterford Crystal, The Mall, Waterford City, IrelandP +353 (0)51 317 000 | E [email protected] | W www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
contentsIssue 03
Published by IMAGE Publications:Editor Lizzie Gore-Grimes Art Director Clare Meredith Editorial Assistant Katie Varvos Sub-editor Sheila Wayman AdvertisingManager Philip McGaleyGroup Editorial Director Laura George Publisher &Managing Director Richard Power
Dylan magazine is published by the Dylan in association with IMAGE Publications Ltd. Custom Publishing, Unit 3, Block 3 Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland; tel: +353 1 2719600 Registered number: 56663. Directors: Richard Power, Ann Reihill, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Robert Power, Laura George and Gina Traynor. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part (includingphotocopying or storing in any medium by electronic means) is prohibited without prior permission of IMAGE Publications Ltd. The reproduction of colours is as accurate as the printing process will allow.Whilst Dylan magazine accepts third party advertising, it does not endorse or take any responsibility for products or services outside those of the Dylan. Please contact the advertiser directly. All items aresubject to availability. The Dylan has made every effort to ensure that product information and prices are correct at the time of going to press. Some of these, including price, may change after publication. Forfurther information, please contact the Dylan Hotel, Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4; tel: +353 1 660 3000; www.dylan.ie.
24
M A G A Z I N EIssue 03
TOPTABLES
12 OF THEBEST PLACESTO EAT INTHE CITY
CALL OFTHE SEAEscape toDalkeyfor theday
MAINMANDomhnallGleeson
MEETTHETRENDSETTERSDUBLININSIDER
Hip Hub: Fade Streetin Dublin 2.
PhotographMatthew Thompson
On the cover
05
0912
18
features05 Insider news Places to go, things to do,
foodie finds and the best Irish buys to bringhome. It’s all here.
09 Shop smart A gorgeous selection of stufffor him, her and the home. Eleganteveningwear, a keepsake for the kids,smashing new season sunnies: there’ssomething for everyone.
10 Followour lead Meet the Dylanconcierge team and let them show youwhere to go to discover Ireland’s mostunmissable spots.
12 Insider Dublin Lizzie Gore-Grimes meetsfive of the city’s leading lights in the worldof fashion, design, food, festivals and music– and finds out where they like to hang outin the capital.
18 City bitesOur edit of the top tables intown for whatever mood you’re in –whether it’s a hot date, a seafood feast or abit of glamour with the girls you’re lookingfor. There’s never been a better time to eatout in Dublin.
23 Wild at heartGlenn Murphy, head chef atthe Dylan, talks suppliers and fills us in onhis latest culinary find – The NádúrCollective – a visionary collective of chefswho are sourcing their own foragedingredients.
24 Dalkey dream Explore one of Dublin’sprettiest little seaside enclaves – famousfor its cliff walks, charming fishing harbour,brilliant places to eat and drink andample celeb-spotting!
29 Spring forwardGet ready to glowwith pro-active glycolic peels andgentle rose-infused beauty balms forher and the best shave in town forhim. Liz Dwyer reports.
30 Spirit of IrelandA Canadian inIreland, Katie Varvos, trades inthe city chaos to exploreMeath, the ‘Royal County’ andis powerfully moved by hervisit to Ireland’s spiritual andancient heartland.
32 LastwordDublin actor andrising star, Domhnall Gleeson,talks to us about his dad, thatsex scene he shot in the Dylan,and his up-coming filmdirected by Angelina Jolie.
Enjoy PERRIER-JOUËT Sensibly. Visit
Portraitby
Antho
nyWoo
ds
I love working on this magazine. Each issue, as we compilethis insider guide to Dublin, it reminds mewhat a great citywe live in. Dublin is changing so rapidly these days, withnew independent shops, cafés, restaurants and bars
springing up so often that it can be hard to keep track.To get the contemporary scoop, we tracked down five of
the city’s leading lights in fashion, food, festivals andmusic topick their brains on where they love to hang out in the city –even as a native Dubliner, I’ve learned about lots of newplaces I can’t wait to check out (page 12).We also take you ona trip toMeath to explore the magical area around Newgrangeand the Hill of Tara (page 30).
Add to that our great guide to Dublin’s top tables on page18 and our list of must-visit destinations from the conciergeteam (looking smashing, I might add!), and you’ll never bestuck for something to do while you’re here.
There’s no doubt 2014 is a great year for Dublin.We haveno less than four new airlines flying directly into the city fromCanada, and we send a warm and hearty welcome to all ournew Canadian friends. There is also the small, quiet matter ofthe RBS 6 Nations Rugby with Dublin hosting the Italian,Scottish andWelsh fans this year. And, as we introduce you tothe superwoman behind the St Patrick’s Day festival on page17, we are reminded how painstakingly this special event isplanned, from one end of the year to the next, to make itspectacular for all.
I am thrilled you have chosen Dylan as your home inDublin – thank you. Please allow us to be your guide, as wellas your host, and we hope to guarantee you a wonderful timein our hometown.
welcomeWelcome to another greatissue of the Dylan Magazine,your on-the-pulse insider’sguide to Dublin.
Gráinne RossGeneral Manager
Dylan Hotel
DUBLINVISIT THEORIGINALJAMESONDISTILLERY
www.jamesonwhiskey.com
TheOld JamesonDistillery Dublin, BowStreet, Smithfield, Dublin 7.E: [email protected] T: +353 (0) 1 8072355 f: +353 (0) 1 8072369
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issue 03 dylan | 5
insidernewsFrom fabulous festivals to uber-modern museums and top-notchnew restaurants, there’s stacks to do and see in Dublin right now.
Dublin DesignJewellers Clare Grennan and Laura Caffrey wereinspired to open Irish Design Shop in 2008 tocelebrate their love of Irish design and craft andlaunch a retail space that was as much about themakers as the products. New instore this seasonis a clever wooden wall hook designed by Clareherself, which encapsulates the shop’s “practicaldesign” ethos. Made from Irish sycamore andfinished in Danish oil, this gorgeous jewellery/bag/coat-hanging hook is the perfectspace-saving piece for bijou city living, €32,Irish Design Shop, 41 Drury Street, Dublin 2.01 679 8871; irishdesignshop.com.
Festival funLeprechaun hats. Street parades.The world’s landmarks turning50 shades of green… it can onlymean one thing: St. Patrick’s Day.Commemorated every March 17,this year’s event happens over abank holiday weekend in Ireland,which means three days of familyfun. Dublin city’s shenanigans kick offon March 14 with a raft of fun fairs,music and street performances,stand-up comedy, film screenings,boat races, markets, even an Irishcraft beer village. Last year nearly500,000 international visitorsattended the parade, the humblestick-on ginger beard uniting allnations, stpatricksfestival.ie.
Cool Cocktails Drury Buildings,
the hip new watering hole and
eatery from the people behind
No Name Bar and l’Gueuleton
is the place to go for fab food
and dangerously good drinks.
We love their signature take
on the sidecar, 01 960 2095.
New SeaSoN NailSKeep 2014 digits up to date with nudenuances and a shot of grown-up glitter…
Left to right:NARSVersailles nail polish,€18, Brown Thomas,brownthomas.com;Nails Inc Foil Effectpolish, €16, BT2, bt2.ie;Essie as Gold As itGets nail polish,€9.99, Boots, boots.ie;Bobbi BrownGlitternail polish, €14,Brown Thomas,brownthomas.com.
Top Tipplethe teeling family have been making whiskey inireland for over 200 years but this year marks thebeginning of a new phase for the craft distillers as theyopen a production plant in Dublin, marking a specialoccasion for the city, as this will be the first time whiskey
has been produced in the capital for125 years. the distillery will be open tovisitors soon but in the meantime, popalong to against the Grain pub on
Wexford street to sampletheir stellar 21-year-old
single malt or pickup a bottle to bringhome from Baggotstreet Wines, justaround the corner,(01) 667 3033;baggotstreetwines.com.
RESTAURANTRESTAURANTRESTAURANT
NO 1 ST MARY’S ROADDUBLIN 4+353 1 6602367
CONTACT OPENING
LUNCH 12-3pmDINNER 5pmWWW.MARCELS.IE
issue 03 dylan | 7
3 of the best ... Dublin MuseuMsCalling all culture vultures. Whether you fancy a fix of contemporary art, nativeesoterica or inventive interactivity – these are the museum must-visits for you.
LittleMuseum of Dublin IMMA ScienceGalleryThis mini museum on St. Stephen’s Green,open since 2011, has already built upsomething of a cult following (nominatedfor the European Museum of the Year).The hourly guided tour has been votedbest tour in Dublin. 15 St. Stephen’s Green,Dublin 2. 01 661 1000; littlemuseum.ie.
The Irish Museum of Modern Art, housedin the city’s former 17th century RoyalHospital, is home to Ireland’s leadingcollection of contemporary art. Don’tmiss the Patrick Scott collection. Thegrounds are also a major highlight.01 612 9900; imma.ie.
It’s clever, it’s cool and it boasts someof the best coffee in town (roastedinhouse in the gallery’s café). Properscience buffs, curious kids and anyonewith eyes and ears will love the ScienceGallery’s interactive exhibitions.01 896 4091; dublin.sciencegallery.com.
screen savioursCalling all cinophiles – the 11thJameson Dublin InternationalFilm Festival (JDIFF) rolls intotown this February 13-23. Alongwith a selection of the best inglobal and Irish film, JDIFF 2014will play host to world premieres,gala screenings and talks as wellas welcome special guest actors(such as Danny DeVito, right),directors and screenwriters to itsred carpet. 01 662 4260; jdiff.com.
Sweet scenthelen roden and Josephensko’s Irish country housecollection candlescapture the mood andscent of a bygone era ofGeorgian splendour. 01676 5040; irishcountryhousecollection.com.
Seafood sensationJohn Farrell, Dublin’s answer to OliverPeyton, is the force behind some of thecity’s buzziest bistros – namely 777,Dillinger’s and The Butcher Grill. Hisnewest eatery, Super Miss Sue, occupiesa full corner site off Drury Street andcurrently houses a slick oyster bar,old-school fish and chip shop and café(expect eight varieties of oyster andseafood platters with lobster, king craband more). The second phase of therestaurant opens late March, promisinga gin and campari bar and upmarketseafood restaurant. We can’t wait!Drury Street, Dublin 2. 01 679 9009;supermisssue.com.
Tel: 01 661 6669
22 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin2
www.lamerezou.ie
la mère ZouRestaurant Français
Solidly French for 20 yearsLa mère Zou is located in the heart of Dublin city on the sunny side of St. Stephen’s Green. We specialise in traditional French bistro style cuisine often served in cast-iron cocottes. The menus are seasonal and use locally sourced Irish and continental ingredients including fresh, locally caught fish. We offer great value for lunch, pre-theatre / early bird, set dinner and a la carte
dining. There is always a good selection of market fresh daily specials on our blackboards.
Lunch Monday to Friday from 12pm and Saturday from 1pmDinner Monday to Saturday from 5:30pm
issue 03 dylan | 9
Deco flowWe love this maxi
dress in brilliant boldsby Danielle Romeril.Weave Print Pinaforedress, €920, at SamuiCork, 021 427 8080;samuifashions.com.
Shop SmartJo Linehan rustles up a selection of beautiful
things, sure to make the perfect gift or covetablekeepsake from your Irish stay…
dr
WedresCorsamu
Sea changeA modern tunic from achic boutique, Tibi top,€305, at Seagreen, 01202 0130; seagreen.ie.
ginghamguySSpruce up in thispreppy Ranelagh Blueshirt, €60, Kartel,01 844 3917; kartel.ie. neck canDy
Try a statementjewellery piece, good
enough to eat. Disco Chicpink glass neckpiece,Melissa Curry, €285,
melissacurry.com.
PrettyPenDantCapulet &
Montague’s mintgreen perspex
dream is theperfect finishing
piece, €80,Om Diva,
01 679 1211.
Blue BeautyThis little elephantis a handmadefriend for little ones.Blue elephant byMagic Forest, €30, at
swoop.ie.
Happy home Plating up
has never looked so good,
with Paul Costelloe’s chic
china. Paul Costelloe Living
silver rim Lady plate set,
€20, Dunnes Stores;
dunnesstores.ie.
Decent DigitSGet your grubby little mitts
stuck into these fun BBQ gloves,€3, Tiger; tiger-stores.ie.
SunnycoolRetro specs, Ray Bans,
€152, at Arnotts,01 805 0400; arnotts.ie.
SunnycoolRetro specs,
€152, at Arnot01 805 0400; ar01 805 0400; ar
Got Soul: Floor flair
and the perfect chair.
Kent orange chair, €780,
S.O.U.L Lifestyle, 01 293
5980; soullifestyle.ie.
MartinMarhefkaConCierge
Whatever ‘culture’ meansto you, you’ll find it inKilkenny. From its
legendary comedy festivalto its thriving music, artsand craft scene. Plus the
city now also boastsone of Ireland’s newest
Michelin-starredrestaurants
– Campagne.TopClass! campagne.ie
10 | dylan issue 03
Madison FoxHeadreCeptionist
A visit to the AvocaHandweavers mill in the
village of Avoca inWicklow is a lovely wayto spend an afternoon.
The area is picture-postcard pretty and themill offers some of the
best Irish craft shoppingand delicious cooking
around - plus themagnificent Mount Ushergardens are just a stroll
away. Avoca.ie
GrahamReillyConCierge
Don’t miss a visit toPhoenix Park, Europe’slargest walled city park.
It’s home to Áras anUachtaráin, Dublin Zoo,The Boathouse Café and
hundreds of wild deer.Bicycles are available to
hire at the gate.phoenixpark.ie
StephenO’Toole
WelComeagent
Howth is a fishingharbour and yachting
port on the north side ofDublin. It’s a quick trainride away from the citycentre and boasts someof the finest views over
Dublin Bay. Howth’s pubsand fish restaurants are
some of the best inIreland. If the idea of abracing seaside walk
followed by a warmingbowl of chowder
appeals – Howth is theplace to do it.
howthismagic.com
issue 03 dylan | 11
at yourservice
The concierge team at the Dylan hotel choose their favouritespots around Ireland and tell us what makes each one so special.
Photograph by anthony Woods
Zoltan TothConCierge and
WelComeSuperviSor
Belfastmay be a smallcity but it’s big on
excitement. The TitanicExperience is a must-see
with its impressiveinteractive exhibition andstunning building. Add tothis great shopping andtop-notch dining and you
have the perfect citybreak destination!titanicbelfast.com
MarcinWorekConCierge and
WelComeSuperviSor
I love outdoor activities.For those, like myself,
who love to get out andabout and would like toexperience the best thatIreland has to offer –then the Ring of Kerry
awaits! With itsbreathtaking sights andthe highest peak in
Ireland – Carrantuohill,unforgettable memories
are guaranteed.theringofkerry.com
Colin BrownroomSdiviSion
manager
A trip to Ireland is notcomplete without a visitto the vibrant city of
Galway. It’s famous, andquite rightly, for itsnightlife, traditionalmusic, brilliant oysterfestival and stunning
Gaeltacht region aroundthe Aran Islands.galwaycity.ie
12 | dylan issue 03
issue 03 dylan | 13
InsIderDublin
Lizzie Gore-Grimesmeets up with five of the city’s leading lights in the world offashion, design, food, festivals and music – and finds out where they like to hang
out in the capital. Portraits by AnthonyWoods
leigh Tucker fashIon desIgnerLeigh Tucker has recently combined thetwomost compelling forces in her life –her career as a fashion designer and herlife as a mother of three young children–with the launch of her new range ofchildrenswear for Dunnes Stores.The range is namedWillow after her
youngest child and is utterly adorable– featuring classic designs with subtlenods to trend. Think dinky wellies,vintage print dresses and cute cardies forthe girls and coloured jeans and peacoatsfor the boys.“I love working and living in Dublin,”
the designer enthuses. “I’ve alwaysworked in the city centre. (Leigh’s familyown themuch-loved boutique, Costume,on Castle Market Street, pictured above).
What I love most about Dublin is the factthat you can be in the throb of the cityoneminute and just 30 minutes lateryou’re on the beach or in the countryside.I grew up in Howth, on the coast just 20minutes from the city, and spent mysummers exploring the sea cliffs. So nowwe bring our three daughters there asoften as we can. There is nothing that theylovemore than the adventure ofclambering down the cliff paths to therocky beach below.Howth is a verypopular spot with visitors these days but itstill feels like a secret place to me.“In the city I mostly shop between
George’s Street and Grafton Street. Thereare so many great independent stores inthat area such as Industry (for design
finds), Appassionata flowers, CocoaAtelier (chocolate heaven), The GardenPowerscourt (stunning florals). ButCostume, of course, is my home fromhome. It’s run bymy family so I’m a bitbiased but I love the clothes there. Mysisters are the buyers and we share thesame taste so it’s like having your dreamwardrobe in one shop.“When I go out in town at night,
Coppinger Row is always my first choice.The food is great and there’s always a realbuzz about the place. I also love Frenchbistro l’Gueuleton on Fade Street. Forsomething special and a lighter touch,theDylan Restaurant is where I tend togo with friends whenwe’ve somethingto celebrate.”
14 | dylan issue 03
Niall ByrNemusic bloggerIf you’re Irish and you’re into music you’llknowwhoNialler9 is. For those who don’t– he has been running one of thecountry’s most popular music sites,Nialler9.com, for over eight years. He alsocurates events, DJs and writes for The IrishIndependent’s entertainment supplementDay & Night. And when he’s not busy withthat, he dabbles in web designconsultancy and other bits and bobs –butmost of the time you’ll find him, headdown, listening to music.“I think what makes the Irish music
scene special,” he begins, “is the fact thatit is very actively entangled with the restof the creative community in art, film,food andmore. I guess this is true of somany things in Dublin – the city is sosmall that everything pretty muchoverlaps. I love that. I know some peoplefind it claustrophobic but I like the
interconnectedness – it makes you feelpart of something.”Niall lives in Dublin 8, one of the oldest
parts of the city known asThe Liberties.“Life is great in Dublin 8!” he declareswitha grin. “I love this area – you haveTheFumbally café (pictured here),NewmarketSquare,Noshington, Bibi’s, South Studios,The Cross Gallery and Café and a lovelyresidential area that’s close to the city butstill quiet.
“On tired and emotional Saturdays, I’llhead to the Temple BarMarket in MeetingHouse Square for a single shooter Irishoyster for €2. Guaranteed to put some pepback in your step. I also love my local –The Fumbally – the falafels and porchettasandwiches here are brilliant.“The last great meal I had was in the
recently opened Forest Avenue restauranton Sussex Road. They offer a tastingmenu
that changes regularly and themeal I hadincluded trout tartare, beetroot cheesebiscuits, chicken liver in baklava pastryand homemademarshmallows anddoughnuts – seriously impressive.”For coffee, Niall ratesVice in Twisted
Pepper onMiddle Abbey Street as Dublin’stop dog, “Not only is the coffee special butTom and the staff are great, always eagerto share their passion for coffee. Dublinis spoilt with top coffee spots – BrotherHubbard,Kaph, Cup, Coffee Angel, TheFumbally and Bibi’s are all excellent.“If you’re into your vinyl, go for a
browse in record shop ElasticWitch alsoin the Twisted Pepper space onMiddleAbbey Street, along with BoxcutterBarbershop, Revolver Project vintage shopand SuperHoshi (a Japanese game importstall) – it’s easily one of my favourite spotsin the city.”
issue 03 dylan | 15
Maria MacVeigh InterIor ArchItect
Maria MacVeigh studied design in hernative Dublin, before moving to Barcelonafor a number of years and then returninghome to set up her own practice. Todayshe is one of the city’s most sought afterinterior architects, working on high-endcommercial projects as well as privatehomes. One of Maria’s stand-out projectsis her recent work on Chapter Onerestaurant (pictured here).
“I live in Killiney, looking out over thesea,” begins Maria. “And I don’t thinkthere could be a better place to arrivehome to every day. I love the manageablesize of Dublin and the wonderful mixtureof old and new. My studio is on the GrandCanal at Leeson Street – and the eveninglight that shoots down the canal and lights
Georgian facades is a very special part ofDublin. This city would not be the samewithout the trees and parks, I don’t thinkwe appreciate how much effort ourforefathers made in planting Dublin, fromThe Phoenix Park to the many landscapedsquares we have (St. Stephen’s Greenbeing the largest in Europe) and hiddengems such as the Iveagh Gardens andThe War Memorial in Islandbridge.
When it comes to eating out, Mariafavours Michelin-starred Chapter One forchef Ross Lewis’s ethereal culinary touchand for the fact that it’s situated besideone of the best galleries in town (TheHugh Lane). “I also love Fallon and Byrnefor a lighter lunch in a lovely part oftown,” she continues. “On a Sunday, you’ll
find me out in The People’s Park in DunLaoghaire stocking up at the fabulousartisan food market there.”
In the evenings Maria recommends adrink in Hogans on George’s Street for itsinviting atmosphere, beautiful oldwooden floors and moody lighting.“O’Brien’s pub on Sussex Road, was mylocal for years though and I think it’s stillmy favourite,” the designer declares.
“When I am looking for quiet and wantto escape the crowds,” she continues,“Arbour Hill Memorial and The DouglasHyde Gallery are two very special placesin the city – both beautifully designed,calm and thought-provoking spaces... andthey’re almost always empty so you canenjoy having them to yourself.”
16 | dylan issue 03
John Farrellrestaurateur“I’m from Ballymun originally – Theseven-storey block, not the notorious15-storey block!” John explains in his softSouth African accent. “But I moved toAfrica when I was 11 years old, where Ilived in Botswana, Zimbabwe and CapeTown for 14 years.”John started working in restaurants
when he was 18, peeling potatoes andwashing dishes, but he’s now one of themost successful young restaurateurs inthe city – with three of Dublin’s buzziesteateries to his name –Dillingers, TheButcher Grill and hipMexican joint 777.“My latest venture, SuperMiss Sue, anupscale seafood restaurant on DruryStreet is just opening so I’m really excitedabout that.“For me the area around South Great
George’s Street, Drury Street and SouthWilliam Street is where it’s at right now inDublin. They say these three parallelstreets form some kind of triangle – I’mnot sure how that’s possible but eitherway it’s a great place to hang out.“Busy lunchtimes, you’ll findme
grabbing a bento box atUkiyo (picturedleft) on Exchequer Street, where the foodis great and in the evening the place reallykicks off with excellent DJs. Later on I’llhead to Fade Street Social to catch upwith friends over drinks on the rooftopterrace. The Drury Buildings is a newspot that is definitely one to watch.“This area is also great for independent
shopping finds – Article in PowerscourtTownhouse Centre has everything fromcookbooks to baby shoes while TheGeorge’s Street Arcade has an authenticVictorian old-world feel and is home toRetro, one of my favourite vintage clothesshops. I love that Dublin is big enough tosupport its diversity but small enough tofeel like a community.”
issue 03 dylan | 17
SuSan KirbyCEO St. PatriCk’S FEStivalEvery month is a busy one for Susan Kirby.Although, let’s face it, March is positivelyfrenetic. As CEO of St. Patrick’s Festival,she’s responsible for a team of over 40 inthe delivery of the national celebration.“The festival is the opening moment forIrish tourism every year so it’s my job tokeep up to speed with what other majorcities are doing around the world, and Ican honestly say that I believe Dublin isone of the most diverse and culturallyrich cities in Europe. The city and allthat surrounds it, from the sea to themountains, is so alive you could never
be bored living here.“I live in Sandymount and try to take
a walk on the strand every day (above) –nothing else will clear the cobwebs or setme up for the day as powerfully as a walkon the windy beach does.
“When I am on the go betweenmeetings, I try and swing by CamdenStreet to grab lunch from Listons DeliorHatch & Co on St. Stephen’s Greenis a new favourite, their Waterford Blaasandwiches are the best. In the evenings,my husband John and I love Ciao BellaRoma on Parliament Street for its simple,
authentic Italian food, good value andfriendliness. An absolute treat would bePearl Brasserie on Merrion Street.
“When it comes to shopping, I’m amarket girl and it’s great to see so manyfunky markets making a comeback inDublin – The Grand Social hosts a FleaMarket by the Ha’penny Bridge everySaturday and I love to browse in theBrocanteMarket in Dublin 8 (on the firstSaturday of every month). I’m also biginto bookshops – TheWinding Stair isa treasure and I love to browse in TheGutter Bookshop on Cow’s Lane.”
18 | dylan issue 03
CityBites
Dublin is currentlybursting at the seams withbrilliant places to eat andfew would argue thatthere’s ever been a bettertime to eat out in the city.We show you where to go.Photography by AilbheO’Donnell.
DaxAnyone who loves classic Frenchcooking will want to set up campin Dax, a large, stylish basementrestaurant between Leeson Streetand Fitzwilliam Square. Chef/owner Olivier Meisonnave’s menuvaries seasonally, but decadentdishes like duck foie gras withcaramelised pear and toastedbrioche, or marinated Irishscallops with avocado purée andrhubarb jelly are permanent palatepleasers. 01 676 1494; dax.ie.
GREAT FOR A DATE
Psst... If you’re on a date, request asecluded table behind the cloister-like screen at the back of therestaurant.
isabel’sWalking down into Isabel’s cosybasement space on Lower BaggotStreet, you get the feeling thatyou’ve been let into the wine cellarof a wealthy Baron. The first thingthat strikes you here is chef NiallO’Sullivan’s passion for detail –everything from the bread to thebutter is homemade, in-house.Flavour combinations areconfident and interesting – pan-fried scallops with nettle risottoand Isabel's duck ham (magretduck breast, cured for 40 hours,no less) are not to be missed.01 661 9000; isabels.ie.Psst... Isabel’s heated, al frescoterrace is the perfect spot for along lazy lunch à deux.
Marcel’sIt’s only a skip across the road butonce ensconced in one of Marcel’ssuper-comfy leather banquettes,you’ll feel transported to a buzzylittle corner of the Marais. Themenu is French-influenced butfull of imaginative flair. Weenjoyed a sensational salmongravlax, served with oyster aioliand shallot jam – followed byrump of lamb paired with fenneland courgette purée andwonderful spiced sweetbreads.This place is a neighbourhoodgreat. 01 660 2367; marcels.ie.Psst... Kickstart your evening witha cheeky Southside Spritz at theDylan bar before you go. Asador
Marcel’s
Dax
issue 03 dylan | 19
COCKTAIL O’CLOCK777
You won’t find any quesadillas orstodgy burritos on the menu atthis modern Mexican joint onSouth Great Georges St . Instead,expect mouthwatering crispytostados topped with super freshyellowfin tuna sashimi, zingyceviche and finger-licking mainsserved straight from the wood-fired grill. The mood in 777 is sexyand supercharged, enhanced bythe low lighting and gleaming12ft-long tequila bar, stocked withover 100 premium label Tequilasand 30 Mezcals. Be warned, the777 cocktail list is a thing ofbeauty. 01 425 4052; 777.ie.Psst... Don’t say Seven, Seven,Seven ... say Triple Seven.
AsadorJust a stone’s throw from theDylan, Asador’s swanky interiorand sparkly atmosphere has madeit one of Dublin’s most popularand buzzy bistros. As the namesuggests (asador means spit inSpanish) flavourful, flame-lickedfood is the name of the game atthis swish Haddington Roadgrillhouse. The cool cocktail bar isalso a big hit, with the AsadorFling being one of its top tipples
(Hendrick’s gin, elderflowerliqueur with muddled cucumber,fresh mint, topped with lemonadeand served in a chilled martiniglass) . 01 254 5353; asador.ie.Psst... The succulent, umami-rich10oz ribeye is not to be missed.
Kinara Kitchen,Ranelagh
This is the slinky little sisterrestaurant to Sean Collender andShoaib Yunus’s upmarket Pakistanieatery in Clontarf. Inside, therestaurant oozes contemporarycomfort and on the menu,chargrilled meats and fish cookedin the Tandoor shine. But upstairsis where the secret gem lies – PaulLambert’s cocktail bar. Paul is oneof Ireland’s finest mixologists,with multiple awards under hisbelt – he is nothing short of amagician when it comes to mixinga martini. 01 406 0066;kinarakitchen.ie.Psst... You have to ask to be shownup to the bar upstairs.
AsAdor’s swAnkyinterior And spArklyAtmosphere mAke itone of dublin’sbuzziest bistros.
isabel’s
777
20 | dylan issue 03
DUBLIN’S FINESTDININGRestaurant Forty OneFor a spot of sumptuous member’sclub luxury, make your way toResidence on St. Stephen’s Greenand settle in for an evening of five-star forager-inspired cuisine.Under the culinary command ofchef Graham Neville, the club’srestaurant is winning award afteraward. And once you’ve tasted hisstuffed tortellini with infusedtruffle foam or foie gras curedwith sea salt, rhubarb and ginger– you’ll know why. If you wantexceptional food in an exquisitelocation, this is the place to come.01 662 0000; restaurantfortyone.ie.Psst... If you’re a group of four orfive ask for the table in the frontoverlooking the Green.
Chapter OneDescending the stairs, from oncegrand but now slightly grittyParnell Square, into the opulentcocoon that is Chapter One, is likeentering a whole new world of
IRISH STARSThe Pig’s EarTo feast on the very best of Irishartisan food, you can’t do anybetter than The Pig’s Ear on NassauStreet. Stephen McAllister’s menureads like a paean to Irish food –showcasing Cuinneóg farmhousebutter, Maurice Kettyle’s beef,Lough Erne milk fed lamb,Castletownbere crab, Gubeenchorizo and more. The place isconvivial and cosy with greatviews over Trinity College playing
fields, while the Chef’s Counterupstairs offers something veryspecial for just eight lucky diners.01 670 3865; thepigsear.ie.Psst...The beef and marrow tartarewith tangy tarragon mayo andcrisp sourdough toast on the sideis to die for.
The Winding StairLocated above a beautiful oldbookshop by the Ha’penny Bridge,The Winding Stair restaurant, runby Elaine Murphy, promisessomething very special – namelypitch-perfect atmosphere,innovative home-cooking and akiller view. You’ll find nothing butthe best in terms of locallysourced, farm-to-fork Irishingredients on the menu and,while it’s informal, a visit here isalways a real treat. It’s also anespecially good stop pre-theatrefor both Abbey and Gate. 01 8727320; winding-stair.com.Psst... Book ahead to nab awindow seat – the Liffey neverlooked so pretty.
The SussexFor a laid-back evening of greatfood, warm firelight and a greatpint to boot – head to The Sussex.This restaurant located aboveO’Brien’s pub on Leeson Streetembodies so much of what is bestabout Ireland. From the warm andfriendly staff to the homelyatmosphere and sensationalseasonally-led menu. Fresh fish isa particular strong point with thehouse smokies (smoked haddock,crème fraîche and cheddar),citrus-cured organic salmon andKerry crab salad all top dishes. 01676 2851; thesussex.ie.
calm elegance. Inside, the naturalwarmth of exposed stone, Irishelm and crisp linen set the scenefor chef Ross Lewis’s Michelin-starred food. On the menu –dishes such as smoked and curedloin of free-range pork with a patanegra crust, roasted king oystermushrooms, seaweed andbuttermilk potato and pickledmustard seeds highlight the skillof the culinary mastercraftsman inthe kitchen. 01 873 2266;chapteronerestaurant.com.Psst... Pick up a copy of theChapter One cookbook,photographed by Barry McCall, onyour way out. It’s a stunner.
Restaurant PatrickGuilbaudSome like it haute. And if that’s you,an evening spent in the gildedconfines of Restaurant PatrickGuilbaud onMerrion Street,Ireland’s only two-starMichelinrestaurant, is an unmissableexperience. On themenu, dishesbear the unmistakable stamp ofexecutive chef Guillaume Lebrun’s
clarity of vision. His philosophy issimple: to deliver a seasonalmenucreated from the best local producefromboth sea and land. And theresults on the plate are jaw-dropping. A dinner out here is aninvestment, true, but one that willpay serious dividends. 01 676 4192;restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie.Psst...Check out the private diningroom, filled with a rare collectionof artist Roderic O’Conor’s work.
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud
The Sussex
The Pig’s Ear
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issue 03 dylan | 23
Glenn Murphy talks to Lizzie Gore-Grimesabout his latest foraging finds ...
GlennMurphy,head chef atthe Dylan, has asurprisinglydown-to-earth
approach to cooking for a manwho has worked in some ofthe country’s leading five-starhotel kitchens. “I like simpleflavours, cooked well,” hebegins. “Clean, unfussypresentation appeals to meand, above all, well-sourced,flavourful ingredients; thesuccess of any dish relies onthe quality of its components.”
Glenn uses locallyproduced, Irish ingredientswhere possible – with thelikes of Ardsallagh goat’scheese, made by Jane andGerardMurphy in Cork,appearing inmany guises onthemenu. “Ardsallagh is a firmfavourite of mine,” declares
Glenn. “It’s a younger goat’scheese, so it’s softer and not asharsh or ‘goaty’ as some of themore traditional French goat’scheeses can be.”
In the restaurant, you’ll findthis pillowy, white cheesepaired with heritage beetrootand killer smoked beetrootpurée that Glenn and his teammake themselves by saltbaking the baby beets beforesmoking and puréeing them.
Jane and GerardMurphy areonly two of the 20-plusconscientiously sourcedsuppliers that Glenn is proudto have introduced to theDylan kitchen, and his latestfind is one he is particularlyexcited by. “A chef friend ofmine, Niall O’Sullivan (fromIsabel’s), introducedme to theNádúr Collective last year: aforaging project run by Niall
at heartWild
Cannon of LambwithWild garlic
1 Tomake the buttermilk mash,bring a large saucepan of water tothe boil. Add the potatoes and boilfor about 15minutes or until tender.Transfer to a colander and drainwell, then return to the pan and setover a very low heat for 2 minutesto dry completely. Add in the creamandmelted butter and mash untilsmooth and creamy. Season totaste. Take the mash off the heatand then add the buttermilk. Donot add it too early or it will split.
2 Tomake the lamb, season themeat and place it in a pan over amedium heat and sear it on one
side for approximately 4 minutes.Turn over and place a knob ofbutter in the pan and baste thelamb in the melted butter. Cook fora further 4 minutes. Then removelamb from the heat, but keep warm.
3 While the lamb is resting, makethe wild garlic purée. Blanch thewild garlic and baby spinach inboiling water for 4 minutes.Remove and leave to drain on a teatowel. Blend while still warm withthe cream, until smooth. Season totaste and then pass through a sieve.
4 Serve on warm plates garnishedwith sprigs of wild garlic. Serves 4.
IngredientsFor the Buttermilkmash• 1.5kg red rooster potatoes,
peeled• 150ml cream• 150g butter, melted• salt and pepper• 150ml buttermilkFor the lamB• 4 x140g cannons of lamb• salt and pepperFor thegarlic purée• 200g wild garlic• 100g baby spinach• 50ml cream• salt and pepper
and two other passionatefoodies, and I’m loving theincreased seasonal spontaneitytheir foraged finds are addingto the Dylanmenu.”
Depending on the time ofyear, Glenn is experimentingwith wood sorrel, sheep’ssorrel, rock samphire, scurvygrass, elderberries andmore.“Rock samphire has a stronger,more complex flavour than themore familiar marshsamphire,” Glenn explains.“There’s something almostcitrusy about it, and it worksbrilliantly with cod.Whilescurvy grass was a new one tome.What a name, I know! Itsounds terrifying, but tastesreally interesting, like Japanese
wasabi, with a good kick.”Glenn has also introducedAlexander seeds to the menu(imagine black pepper minusthe sharp heat); he’s addingthem to a dish of freshstrawberries, whipped creamand flaky shortbread, and theresult is divine.
“Wild ingredients can adda new layer of complexity toa dish, which is brilliant,”concludes Glenn. “But I dothink it’s important that they’reused for the right reasons anddo not simply appear name-checked on amenu for thecontemporary cachet. Theymust add somethingsubstantial andmeaningfulto the dish.”
24 | dylan issue 03
Sleepy, quiet, picturesque harbour town or Dublin’s answerto Beverly Hills? Dalkey somehowmanages to be both.
Let’s Go to the
Words and PicturesNathalie Marquez CourtNey
Ask anyone aboutDalkey andthey’ll no doubtlaunch into a listof the Dublin
village’s famous inhabitants.The suburb’s A-list residentsread like a who’s who of theIrish celeb elite; but don’t letthat put you off, as Dalkey isthe perfect place for alaid-back day trip.There has been a huge surge
in US tourism sinceMichelleObama and her daughterspassed through the village inJune, lunching with Bono inthe local institution that isFinnegan’s pub. The coastaltown has a whole lot more tooffer besides celeb-spottingand pints of the black stuffthough – it boasts dozens ofgreat eateries, stunning scenicwalks, fascinating history,beautiful Victorian-eraarchitecture and some of thebest seaside views you’ll getthis side of the Amalfi.
SEE & DOOnce off the DART, which is apretty trip in itself (make sureto grab a seat on the left forthe best views), head south,up Coliemore Road and soakup the fresh sea air at thepicturesque ColiemoreHarbour . Quiet and peaceful,it can be hard to believe that itwas once themost importantharbour in Dublin. All alongthe coast you’ll see evidenceof the many water-basedactivities you can partake in,
Seasideweather permitting – you cansign up for sailing, anglingand even diving or kayaking.If you choose to go north
off the DART, at Harbour Roadyou’ll find Coliemore’s bigsister, Bulloch Harbour . Ithas been declared a sealsanctuary, and is still aworking harbour, so amongthe colourful weathered boatsyoumight spot fishermenarriving with their catch oflobster or crab. During thesummermonths, youmayeven be able to hire a boat anddo a bit of fishing yourself. Ifthat seems like toomuchtrouble, make sure to visitduring the annual Lobsterand Jazz Festival in August(dalkeyfestivals.com).Back at ColiemoreHarbour,
you’ll catch your first glimpseof Dalkey Island , which thevillage is named after. Hoponto the viewing platform andtake a peek through thetelescope for a better view. Theisland is uninhabited, but theremains of houses, a church
Clockwise fromaboveBeautiful springblooms atunique Flowers; put a coin inthe telescope and look over todalkey
island – youmight even spot one of theisland’s wild goats; a super-healthy juice
fromselect stores indalkey village.
issue 03 dylan | 25
and the 19th-century MartelloTower – clearly visible fromthe coast – still exist. Throughthe telescope, you may spotone of the wild goats whoroam the island, or, if you’revery lucky, a seal. Artefactsfrom Dalkey Island are nowhoused in Dublin’s NationalMuseum, as they providedevidence of occupants thatdate all the way back to theMiddle Stone Age.
To get a closer look,continue up Coliemore Roaduntil you hit Dillon’s Park.Walk through it and thenscramble over the seasiderocks for some pretty snaps.From here, you’ll not only geta closer look at the island, butat the dozens of tiny privateharbours dotted along thecoast that belong to Dalkey’swell-heeled residents.
Continue up ColiemoreRoad until it meets SorrentoRoad, which will bring youback in a handy loop to thevillage, where you can rewardyourself with a spot of lunch.Don’t leave without firsttaking a look at the prettypastel-coloured houses of
Sorrento Terrace though,which fetch some of thehighest prices in the area.
Once you’ve had a bite toeat, take your time getting toknow the village a little better.History buffs shouldn’t miss atrip to Dalkey Castle , anhomage to Dalkey’s roots as aViking settlement. The LivingHistory tour is a popularattraction that uses liveperformers from a localtheatre company (dressed inincredibly detailed andimpressive costumes) toimmerse you in life as it wasin the 16th century, makingyou feel like an extra on theset of The Tudors. The castlealso houses Dalkey’s HeritageCentre, which often hoststemporary exhibitions andgives you a look at some of theliterary figures that have livedin, or written about, the area,including Maeve Binchy, whowas born in Dalkey andcontinued to live there untilher death in 2012.
During the summermonths, you can book yourplace on a literary-themedwalking tour, which will bring
Clockwise fromtop leftOneofthemany designer houses you’ll
find dotted along theDalkeycoast; Dalkey RowingClub; awell
used andweather-wornfishing vessel at BullochHarbour.
26 | dylan issue 03
you to the haunts writtenabout by James Joyce, GeorgeBernard Shaw, Flann O’Brienand Hugh Leonard (01 2858366; dalkeycastle.com). Thesummer also sees the arrivalof the incredibly popularDalkey Book Festival, whichdraws in talented authorsfrom around the world fortalks and events (dalkeybookfestival.org).In additional to the cultural
attractions, you can wander inand out of local galleries andboutiques, admiring the freshblooms and sweet home findsat Unique (01 275 1737;uniqueflowers.ie), theimpressive impressionisticlandscapes and seascapes atGerard Byrne’s studio (keepan eye out for his vintageJaguar parked outside),picking up a piece of hand-crafted jewellery or locally-made candles at Banyan Treeat The Tramyard or eventaking part in an afternoon ofupcycling at Upside Design(087 237 0949, upside.ie).When you’re ready for
somemore activity andbracing fresh air, walk upArdeevin Road andmake yourway to Dalkey quarry andKilliney Hill . It’s a leisurelystroll and there are routes forall fitness levels that bring youto the hill’s summit, whichboasts gorgeous panoramicviews across the bay. The viewis different every time, whichis one of the reasons it’s such afavourite spot with locals. Onweekends, you’ll find foragingfamilies, ambling OAPs,flush-faced dog walkers, rockclimbers and a fair share offellow tourists.
EAT & DRINKBe sure to work up an appetitebecause Dalkey has noshortage of places to eat. Ifyou arrive early, wanderthrough the heart of thevillage and grab a cup ofcoffee at Mugs ; it’s the bestspot for local gossip and agood place to sit and planyour route (01 284 0419). Ifyou’re eager to hit the harbour
and the scenic walks, grab anorganic fruit and veg-packedjuice at Select Stores , amuch-loved health food shopknown for its three-day detoxpackage and knowledgablein-house nutritionist (01 2859611; selectstores.ie).For a naughtier morning
treat, pick up a deliciouslymoreish caramel slice atThyme Out , Dalkey’s go-todeli for artisan food stuffs andsweet treats (01 285 1999;thymeout.ie).Once you’ve gotten low
among the seaside rocks andwalked to the heights ofDalkey quarry and KillineyHill, make your way backdown to the village and
reward yourself with a heartymeal. For great pub grub and awarm, buzzy atmosphere,head to TheMagpie Inn ,where you can also take yourpick from a great collection ofcraft beers (01 202 3909;magpieinn.ie). If there’s a gangof you, youmay want to bookin to the Guinea Pig fortraditional fish dishes, (01 285
9055) or Jaipur for spicyIndian curries with a side ofceleb: Bono, Neil Jordan,Sinead O’Connor, andJonathan RhysMeyers have allbeen seen here (01 285 0552;jaipur.ie). A great lunch can behad among the cosy andelegant booths at DeVille’s(01 284 9071; devilles.ie)while Italian fare at Benito’s isthe perfect spot for a laid-back family meal (01 2851010; benitos.ie). After whichyoumay fancy heading acrossto The Queens for a nightcap(01 285 1010; thequeens.ie). Ifthere’s a rugby game on, soakup the old school atmosphereand banter at The Club, whichis also the only place in townserving up a carvery dinner,(01 285 8511; theclubdalkey.com). Of course, no trip toDalkey is complete without atrip to Finnegan’s , famouslyknown as the pubwhereMichelle Obama downed apint of the black stuff withBono. During the summermonths, stay eagle-eyed andgrab a table outside, whereyou can soak up the sun,people watch and admire theparade of gleaming designercars speeding by (01 285 8505;finnegans.ie).
Clockwise fromaboveWhy not take part in an afternoonof upcycling at Upside Design Studios; Eastern gems atBanyan Tree jewellery and gift shop in The Tramyard Gallery;deliciously moreish caramel slices at Thyme Out ; morefabulous florals from Unique Flowers in the village.
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issue 03 dylan | 29
What is glycolic acid?Glycolic acid may sound like themost terrifying ingredient to beslathering on your face, but in factit’s simply a derivative of sugarcane and some fruits. Originallyused in industrial circumstances,dermatologists discovered, whenused in much lowerconcentrations, such as 10%, itworked a treat at breaking downthe mesh of fibres that clutch onto the millions of dead skin cellson the skin’s surface. They alsofound that with controlled andrepeated use, skin becamebrighter, fine lines werediminished, pigmentationlessened and that any productsapplied to skin afterwards,penetrated much better as theyno longer had to bore through adense film of dead cells first.
Get ready to glow with pro-active glycolic peels andgentle rose-infused beauty balms for her and thebest shave in town for him. Liz Dwyer reports.
SPRINGforward
For himLooking for the best wet shave inDublin? Head to Knights of theGreen – one of Ireland’s oldestand most highly respectedbarbershops. They also stock afantastic range of luxury shavingkit for the discerning shaver:badger hair brushes, alum block,razor strops, moustache wax andmore. Knights of the Green, 01478 0283; knights-barbers.com.
Glycolic FixesNip FabGlycolicFix, €12.95, simplysweep thesepre-soaked padsover cleansed skin forspeedy exfoliation.No7YouthfulGlycolic Peel Kit,€33, with eightat-home peels, aneutralising solutionand moisturiser, thisfool-proof kit isbrilliant value.NeoStrataFoaming GlycolicWash, €33, latherup a storm with thisacid-based cleanser.Quick and easy.
GenTle, reGeneraTive and hydraTinG, The rOse planT is a hOTbedOf skin benefiTs. We’ve picked The besT in blOOm fOr yOu.
ren’s moroccan rose Ottoultra-moisture body Oil, €40,is laced with one of the mostexpensive essential oils in theworld. skin feels like silkupon application andremains spongy soft
and lightly fragrantall day.
Trilogy’scertified organic,rose hip Oil,€29.95, is anantioxidantpowerhouse,boastingvitamins a,
d and e, which are keyto protecting skin cellsfrom ageing.
burt’s bees rosewater andglycerin toner, €12.49,is a really gentle,antibacterial toner, that
works wonders oncalming irritated andacne-prone skin.
Take 3 ... How best to use them?cosmetic companies have foundsafe means of integrating lowerpercentages, such as 5% glycolicacid, into mild everyday cleansingproducts and at home peel kits.This low-dose frequent use ofglycolic products, means themesh of dead cells never gets achance to build up, and it alsoencourages daily cell renewal.
Are there risks?a little glycolic can yield greatresults so users can assume that ifthey use it more frequently,they’ll get even better results.however, less is more when itcomes to usage. it’s best to startwith the lowest glycolicpercentage available to test yourtolerance and tweak to avoidaggravating your skin.
Glorious Glycolic
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neal’s yard Wild rosebeauty balm, €48.50, scoresa beauty hat trick by acting asa cleanser when used with amuslin cloth, a nourishingmask when left on for halfan hour or as a healingtreatment, applied sparinglyto dry, flaky skin.
One sweep of calming nuxemicellar cleansing Water withrose petals, €15.20, willcleanse make-up and clearpores in a flash, withoutaggravating sensitivities.
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30 | dylan issue 03
SpiritofA Canadian in Ireland,KatieVarvosescapes the city lights to explore thecountry’s spiritual and ancient heartland.
Ihave long harboured anerdy love affair with Irishhistory – somuch so that Iwas compelled to leave myhometown of Calgary to
move to Ireland in 2006 tostudy. And I am still here.So you can imagine howexcited I was by the prospectof a few days away from thedin of the city to visit Meath– historical seat of Ireland’sHigh Kings and home to TrimCastle, the Hill of Tara andNewgrange.The first stop onmy
journey was Trim Castle – animpressive Norman castlelocated on the south bank ofthe River Boyne. This formerhome of the Norman Knightsstretches out over 30,000m².Known as the “Lordship ofMeath”, this ancient fortresswas appointed the admissionheadquarters of Ireland byKing Henry II – and it’s nothard to see why.After a brisk and refreshing
walk around the castle, a hot
cuppa was called for so wemade our way to the end ofMarket Street, where the AnTroman (Little elder tree)coffee shop (10Market Street,Trim, 046 948 3703) had comehighly recommended.Whilethere we sampled a stellarrange of homemade chutneysand preserves, made by localwoman Nicola Smyth. Don’tleaveMeath without some.Next up, and only a short
20-minute drive away camethe royal Hill of Tara. As wepulled up, I spotted whatlooked like an interesting oldshed but turned out to be acharming bookshop. And tosay the owner was a Hill ofTara enthusiast would be anunderstatement. One historylesson later, I learned 142kings once reigned on thisroyal mound and, in ancientIrish religion andmythology,the Hill of Tara was the sacreddwelling place of the Celticgods andmarked the entranceto the otherworld.
WHERE TO STAYIf, like myself, you enjoy a bit of luxury when itcomes to hotels but like ones that have a story
to go along with the sumptuous snoozethen the Dunboyne Castle Hotel & Spais where you want to be.
The 22nd Baron of Dunboyne, JohnButler, was the last member of thepeerage to reside in the estate. Butlerwas the Catholic Bishop of Cork whocontroversially gave up Catholicism,became a Protestant and married hiscousin. The property then went on to
pass through the hands of many prestigiousfamilies until, in 1955, it became home to theGood Shepherd Sisters. In 1999 it was bought byits current owners and restored to its formerglory, opening as Dunboyne Castle Hotel in 2006.And while our roomwas certainly grand
enough for any bishop it was the relaxed andfriendly service and the cheeky outdoor jacuzzithat really made our stay unforgettable! Heavenly.Dunboyne Castle Hotel & Spa, Dunboyne, Co.Meath. T: +353 (0)1 801 3500. Book online toavail of special offers, dunboynecastlehotel.com.
Head up the hill here,through the church cemetery,and you’ll find the field whereIreland’s ancient coronationstone sits. The Lia Fáil or Stoneof Destiny is said to roar whentouched by the rightful Kingof Tara. I did touch it… andwaited with bated breath, butalas no roar for me. Ohwell,maybe next time.But what really caught my
eye was a nearby tree tangledwith ribbons, soothers, brasand spoons. The waitress inthe lovely family-run
Maguire’s Café (Hill of Tara,Navan, 046 902 5534) at thebottom of the hill laterexplained this is a fairy treeand people from all over theworld come to leave gifts andmake a wish by it.The next morning we
arrived at Newgrange early,and were glad we did. TheWorld Heritage Site only takesa limited number of visitors aday and in the high seasonfills up fast. Newgrange is oneof the largest andmostimportant prehistoricmegalithic areas in Europe.Archaeologists believe that themonument had powerfulreligious significance. Eachyear during winter solstice,the sun shines directly alongthe long passage into thechamber for 17minutes –illuminating the chamberfloor. It’s a sight not to miss.
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32 | dylan issue 03
Last Word
DOMHNALLGLEESON
Wemeet up with the young Dublin actor makingwaves in Hollywood.Move over Colin Farrell.
How did you get into acting?Two things really: I accepted anaward for my Dad when I was16 because he was out of thecountry and I ended up makingan impromptu speech (I wasyoung and foolish and didn’tknow any better) – and that ledto me getting an agent. At theage of 19 he sent me a copyof Martin McDonagh’s TheLieutenant of Inishmore as hethought I’d like it. The script wasso funny, it made me want toact. I worked on it with my Dad,auditioned, got the part, andplayed it on theWest End thatsummer while on holiday fromcollege. Best summer ever. Andit’s been downhill ever since.
What has been your favouriteacting role to date? Each istotally different. In terms ofwhich character I’d like to havea real-life chat with, I’d haveto say the one I’m playingpresently: Russell Allen Phillips,a pilot duringWorldWar Two.He and Louis Zamperini survived47 days at sea, and drifted2,000 miles on the Pacific withno food or water, on a life raft,surrounded by sharks. Andthen survived a POW campafterwards. A hero, who isnow gone. It would have beenan honour to meet him.
What are you working on atthe moment? I’m in Australiaworking on the film in whichI play Phillips. It’s calledUnbroken, directed byAngelina Jolie. She’s great.
Your next film release, the sci-fimovie Ex Machina, directed byAlex Garland (author of TheBeach), sounds interesting. Canyou tell us a little bit about it?It’s an incredible, incredible scriptand I think it’s gonna be aseriously good film. Amanwins acompetition to spend a weekwith the boss of his company,which runs the biggest searchengine in the world. The bossasks him to do the Turing Test onan artificially intelligent femalerobot he has created.
Unexpected, dramaticconsequences ensue…
Last year, you produced andstarred in a series of comedyskits called Immaturity forCharity which raised awhopping €70,000+ for the St.Francis hospice in Raheny. Canyou tell us a little bit moreabout what that project was allabout and what it meant toyou? I saw the work they dofirst-hand. I sawmy grandparentspass away there, and realised acomfortable death can helpdefine a beautiful life. Theystruggle endlessly to raiseenoughmoney to dowhat theydo in Raheny, and then they toldme about an empty, purpose-
built hospice in Blanchardstownwhich was fully completed andready to look after the dying butcouldn’t afford to open its doorsfor the in-patient unit. Ratherthan just give what I could, I putthatmoney into the sketches, wegot a great team, and overmanymonths, with the help ofmanyfavours (including the lend of agorgeous room in the Dylanhotel, which now features in ourmost popular sketch), ended upraising far more than I could havedonatedmyself, and helpedbring somemuch-neededattention to a very worthwhilecause. You can donate and watchthe sketches on the website,immaturityforcharity.com…Please check it out.
As a Dubliner, what do youlove about the city? Wheredo you like to hang out whenyou’re in Dublin? I love Dublinto bits. The Ha’penny Bridge inthe rain, come on! And TempleBar gets an awful kicking but thecraic there can be great. I lovethe Dame Tavern for a quietpint. And The Port House forsome food when you’re flush. Afilm in the Lighthouse and a pintafterwards in The Cobblestoneis lovely, as is film and food inthe IFI. And I love going out toHowth or Malahide, where Iused to live. Dublin is brilliant.So many places to hang out andhave fun.
Now that you have entered theHollywood realm - how areyou finding that level of fameand all that comes with it?I get more recognised for thecomedy sketches I did thanI ever have for Harry Potteror About Time, so it’s alwaysbeen fine, and I’ve nothing tocomplain about. I’m prettylow on the recognisable list.
Where do you go to escape?My parents’ house.
What would your last meal onearth be?Cashew nuts and aCoke. Then Christmas dinnercare of my Mam and brother,with my family around, andsome wine maybe. Then aHaagen-Dazs ice cream sundae,by myself, so I don’t have toshare. I have it all figured out.
Check out Sex Scene, a comedy sketchDomhnall Gleeson shot in the Dylanhotel with Amy Huberman, which hasover 600,000 hits on YouTube to date!
JESSIECRAIG
DOMHNALL
have fun.ha
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